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IMAGE  EVALUATION 
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PhotDgraphic 

Sciences 
Corporation 


23  WIST  MAIN  STKSIT 

WMSTIR.N.Y.  I4SS0 

(716)  •73-4S03 


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CIHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 


CIHIVI/iCIVIH 
Coiiection  de 
microficlies. 


Canadian  Inatituta  for  Historical  Microraproductions 


Institut  Canadian  da  microraproductions  historiquas 


1980 


£ 


Technical  and  Bibliographic  Notes/Notas  techniques  et  bibiiographiques 


The  Institute  has  attempted  to  obtein  the  best 
original  copy  available  for  filming.  Features  of  this 
copy  which  may  be  bibliographically  unique, 
which  may  alter  any  of  the  images  in  the 
reproduction,  or  which  may  significantly  change 
the  usual  method  of  filming,  are  checlced  below. 


□    Coloured  covers/ 
Couverture  de  couleur 

□   Covers  damaged/ 
Couverture  endommagie 

□   Covers  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
Couverture  restaurAe  et/ou  pelliculAe 

□   Cover  title  missing/ 
Le  titre  de  couverture  manque 

□   Coloured  maps/ 
Cartes  g^ographiques  en  couleur 

□    Coloured  inic  (i.e.  other  than  blue  or  black)/ 
Encrexle  couleur  (i.e.  autre  que  bleue  ou  noire) 

I — I   Coloured  plates  and/or  illustrations/ 


D 


D 


PInnches  et/ou  illustrations  en  couleur 


Bound  with  other  material/ 
Relii  avec  d'autres  documents 


r~l\    Tight  binding  may  cause  shadows  or  distortion 


n 


along  interior  mergin/ 

La  reliure  serr6e  peut  causer  de  I'ombre  ou  de  la 

distortion  le  long  de  la  marge  intArieure 

Blank  leaves  added  during  restoration  may 
appear  within  the  text.  Whenever  possible,  these 
have  been  omitted  from  filming/ 
II  se  peut  que  certaines  pages  blanches  ajout^es 
lors  d'une  restauration  apparaissent  dans  le  texte, 
mais,  lorsque  cela  6tait  possible,  ces  pages  n'ont 
pas  At4  filmAes. 

Additional  comments:/ 
Commentaires  supplAmentaires; 


L'Institut  a  microfilmil  le  meilleur  exempleire 
qu'il  lui  a  AtA  possible  de  se  procurer.  Les  details 
de  cet  exempleire  qui  sont  peut-Atre  uniques  du 
point  de  vue  bibliographique.  qui  peuvent  modifier 
une  image  reproduite,  ou  qui  peuvent  exiger  une 
modificetion  dans  la  mAthode  normale  de  filmage 
sont  indiquAs  ci-dessous. 


I — I   Coloured  pages/ 


EZI 


Pages  de  couleur 

Pages  damaged/ 
Pages  endommagAes 

Pages  restored  and/oi 

Pages  restauries  et/ou  pelliculAes 

Pages  discoloured,  stibined  or  foxe( 
Pages  dicolor^es,  tacheties  ou  piquies 

Pages  detached/ 
Pages  ddtachies 

Showthrough/ 
Transparence 

Quality  of  prir 

Quality  inigale  de  I'impresslon 

Includes  supplementary  materia 
Comprend  du  materiel  supptimentaire 

Only  edition  available/ 
Seule  Mition  disponible 


I — I  Peges  damaged/ 

I — I  Pages  restored  and/or  laminated/ 

I — I  Pages  discoloured,  stibined  or  foxed/ 

I      I  Pages  detached/ 

I      I  Showthrough/ 

I      I  Quelity  of  print  varies/ 

I      I  Includes  supplementary  material/ 

I — I  Only  edition  available/ 


Pages  wholly  or  partially  obscured  by  errata 
slips,  tissues,  etc.,  have  been  refilmed  to 
ensure  the  best  possible  image/ 
Les  pages  totalement  ou  partiellement 
obscurcies  par  un  feuillet  d'errata,  une  pelure, 
etc.,  ont  M  filmies  A  nouveau  de  fapon  A 
obtenir  la  meilleure  image  possible. 


This  item  is  filmed  et  the  reduction  retio  checked  below/ 

Ce  document  est  film6  eu  taux  de  reduction  indiquA  ci-dessous. 

10X  14X  18X  22X 


26X 


30X 


y 


12X 


16X 


20X 


24X 


28X 


32X 


I 

tails 
>  du 
odifier 
une 
mage 


The  copy  filmed  here  ha*  been  reproduced  thanks 
to  the  generosity  of: 

Morissat  Library 
Univtrtity  of  Ottawa 

The  images  appearing  here  are  the  best  quality 
possible  considering  the  condition  and  legibility 
of  the  original  copy  and  in  keeping  with  the 
filming  contract  specifications. 


Original  copies  in  printed  paper  covers  are  filmed 
beginning  with  the  front  cover  and  ending  on 
the  last  page  with  a  printed  or  Illustrated  Impres- 
sion, or  the  back  cover  when  appropriate.  Ail 
other  original  copies  are  filmed  beginning  on  the 
first  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, and  ending  on  the  last  page  with  a  printed 
or  illustrated  impression. 


L'exemplaire  film*  fut  reproduit  grice  A  la 
gAnArositA  da: 

BibliothkiiM  Morinat 
Univar>it4  d'Ottawa 

Les  Images  sulvantes  ont  At*  reproduites  avec  le 
plus  grand  soin,  compte  tenu  de  la  condition  at 
de  la  nettetA  de  rexemplaire  film*,  et  en 
conformity  avec  les  conditions  du  contrat  de 
fl^mage. 

Les  exemplalres  originaux  dont  la  couverture  en 
papier  est  imprimie  sont  filmte  en  commen9ant 
par  le  premier  plat  et  en  terminant  solt  par  la 
derniire  page  qui  comporte  une  emprelnte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration.  soit  par  le  second 
plat,  salon  le  cas.  Tous  les  autres  exemplalres 
originaux  sont  filmAs  en  commen^ant  par  la 
premlAre  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration  et  en  terminant  par 
la  dernlAre  page  qui  comporte  une  telle 
empreinte. 


The  last  recorded  frame  on  eech  microfiche 
shall  contain  the  symbol  ^^  (meaning  "CON- 
TINUED"), or  the  symbol  V  (meaning  "END"), 
whichever  applies. 

Maps,  plates,  charts,  etc..  may  be  filmed  at 
different  reduction  ratios.  Those  too  large  to  be 
entiraiy  included  In  one  exposure  are  filmed 
beginning  in  the  upper  left  hand  corner,  left  to 
right  and  top  to  bottom,  as  many  frames  as 
required.  The  following  diagrams  illustrate  the 
method: 


Un  des  symboles  suivants  apparattra  sur  la 
dernlAre  image  de  cheque  microfiche,  selon  le 
cas:  le  symbols  — ►  signifie  "A  SUiVRE",  le 
symbols  ▼  signifie  "FIN". 

Les  cartes,  planches,  tableaux,  etc..  peuvent  Atre 
filmte  A  des  taux  de  rMuction  diffirents. 
Lorsque  le  document  est  trop  grand  pour  Atre 
reproduit  en  un  seul  clichA.  II  est  film*  A  partir 
de  Tangle  supArleur  gauche,  de  gauche  A  droite, 
et  de  haut  en  bas,  en  prenant  le  nombre 
d'Images  n^cessalre.  Les  diagrammes  suivants 
illustrent  la  m6thode. 


irrata 
to 


pelure. 


n 

32X 


1 

2 

3 

[-,_  _        1 

2 

3 

4 

5 

6 

ALAS  K  A 


'  S     RESOURCES. 


•V 


WILLIAM    II.    DALL, 

T<l.li.O«.'.l>ll   BXrUilTION. 


BOSTON: 

tEE    AN  I)    SH  Fi  Pa  RD 

1870. 


BlSNOTHtCA     ) 


f .       v^l^W 


ALASKA 


AND 


ITS     RESOURCES. 


BV 


-*i 


WILLIAM    H.    DALL, 

DIRECTOR  OF  THB  SCIENTIFIC  CORPS  OF  THE    I.ATE   WESrBRN    UNION 
TEI.ECRAPH   EXPEDITION. 


BOSTON : 

LEE    AND    SHEPARD 

1870. 


VJnivorwJaj"-'^ 
BiBLIOTHKCA 


/ 


itr 


Kntered  according  to  Act  of  Congress,  in  tlie  ycai  1870,  by 

WILLIAM     H  .     D  A  L  L , 

in  (he  Clerk's  Office  of  the  District  Court  of  tlie  District  of  Massachusetts. 


Univbrsitv  Press:  Wblch,  Bigslow,  &  Co., 
Cambriixib. 


F 

/370 


do  ti)c  memory 


OF 


ROBERT    KENNICOTT. 

FIRST    DIRECTOR    OF    THE    SCIENTIFIC    CORPS, 

CfjiK  Woxk  is  rebtrtntlg  StJiiratrH. 


HE  JOINED    TO    A    NOltI.E    AND    CENEROUS    HEART    AN    ENTHUSIASTIC 
LOVE  OF  nature;   defying    in  the    pursuit  OF   KNOWLEDC.E 
THE   MIASMA   OF  THE  TROPICS  AND  THE   RIC.ORS  OF  THE 
ARCTIC     WINTER;     MANFULLY     ENDURINIJ      ISOLA- 
TION,     SICKNESS,      AND      PRIVATION,      AND 
DYING     IN     THE    FIELD,    A     MARTYR 
TO  THE    CONSCIENTIOUS    DIS- 
CHARGE   OF    HIS 
DUTY. 


INTRODUCTION. 


'  I  "HE  purpose  of  this  volume  has  been  to  comprise  in  a  small 
-^  compass  the  most  valuable  part  of  the  present  knowledge  of 
Alaska.  The  writer  has  specially  endeavored  to  convey  as  much 
information  as  his  scope  would  allow,  in  regard  to  the  native 
inhabitants,  history,  and  resources  of  the  country.  This  end  has 
been  kept  steadily  in  view,  perhaps  at  the  risk  of  dulness. 

The  greatest  care  has  been  taken  to  verify  such  facts  as  have 
not  come  under  the  personal  observation  of  the  writer.  Toward 
this  end  every  accessible  work  containing  information  in  regard 
to  the  country  has  been  consulted  in  the  original.  Where  au- 
thorities have  differed,  the  statements  thought  most  worthy  of 
confidence,  or  such  as  best  agreed  with  the  experience  of  the 
author,  have  been  adopted.  Many  discrepancies  have  been  recon- 
ciled, and  not  a  few  errors  have  been  corrected.  Mistakes  to  a 
certain  extent  are  inevitable,  but  it  is  hoped  that,  in  all  important 
points,  ihe  statements  herein  made  will  stand  the  test  of  time 
and  future  observation.  Many  of  the  conclusions  in  regard  to 
the  natives  may  seem,  to  the  superficial  observer,  unwarranted ; 
indeed,  the  author  found,  during  a  second  year's  experience,  that 
not  a  few  of  his  earlier  impressions  were  erroneous,  and  constant 
intercourse  with  the  natives,  during  that  year  while  isolated  from 
other  white  men,  enabled  him  to  clear  up  many  doubtful  points 
which  previous  observations  had  left  unsettled.  The  geograph- 
ical information  here  recorded  is,  of  necessity,  partly  approximate. 
With  a  base  upon  which  to  found  future  observations,  it  is  to 
be  hoped  that  accurate  determination  of  many  points  will  not 
long  be  delayed. 


VI 


INTRODUCTION. 


Theories  and  opinions  have  been,  as  far  as  possible,  kept  in  the 
background,  or,  when  expressed,  so  separated  from  the  statements 
of  facts,  that  the  reader  is  left  free  to  adopt  or  reject  them  from 
the  evidence  presented. 

Now  that  the  native  and  Russian  names  of  places  and  people 
in  Alaska  are  to  be  introduced  into  American  literature,  it  is  very 
desirable  that  they  should  be  spelled  as  simply  and  uniformly  as 
their  phonetic  value  will  allow.  Great  care  has  been  taken  in 
this  respect ;  a  slight  knowledge  of  the  Russian  language  having 
been  of  much  assistance.  It  is  earnestly  recommended  that 
other  writers  will  join  their  cfibrts  to  promote  the  acceptance 
and  use  of  the  method  of  spelling  adopted  in  this  volume.  It 
is  evidently  for  the  interest  of  all  that  simplicity  and  accuracy 
should  be  the  only  guides,  and,  above  all,  that  uniformity  should 
prevail. 

It  is  but  just  that  the  first  acknowledgment  should  be  made  to 
the  Directors  of  the  Western  Union  Telegraph  Company.  By  the 
liberality  and  generosity  of  these  gentlemen  a  grand  opportunity 
was  afforded  of  investigating  the  Natural  History  of  this  interest- 
ing region  ;  while  the  operations  of  the  ICxpedition  were  not 
impeded,  a  large  amount  of  information  was  collected,  for  which 
they  should  receive  the  thanks  of  scientific  men  of  all  countries. 
In  the  fiiilure  of  the  direct  objects  of  the  Expedition,  it  must  be 
no  small  consolation  to  reflect  that  by  such  liberal  conduct,  at  an 
insignificant  expense,  results  of  such  importance  and  of  lasting 
value  have  been  obtained. 

The  writer  has  been  under  many  obligations,  during  the 
progress  of  the  explorations,  to  Captain  Charles  S.  Bulkley,  En- 
gineer-in-Chief  of  the  Expedition  ;  Captain  C  M.  Scammon, 
U.  S.  R.  S.,  Chief-of-Marine ;  Adjutant  George  M.  Wright ;  Fred- 
erick Whymper,  Flsq.,  Artist  of  the  Expedition  ;  and  especially 
to  Captain  E.  Everett  Smith,  of  the  schooner  F.  L.  Steele,  for 
many  favors. 

The  writer  also  desires  to  express  his  sense  of  the  favors  con- 


INTRODUCTION. 


Vll 


favors  con- 


ferred and  facilities  offcroil,  during  the  progress  of  this  work,  by 
the  Smithsonian  Institution,  under  the  (hrcction  of  Professor 
Joseph  Henry.  There  is  no  other  place  where  so  much  practical 
and  valuable  information  can  be  found,  in  regard  to  the  less 
known  parts  of  North  America,  as  in  the  archives  of  this 
establishment.  To  Professor  S.  F.  Baird,  of  the  Institution, 
the  author  is  also  under  deep  obligations  for  advice  and  assist- 
ance. 

To  the  trustees  and  librarian  of  the  Boston  Athcnxum  and  the 
Boston  Public  Library;  to  Professor  Theodore  Gill,  and  Mr.  Spof- 
ford,  of  the  Congressional  Library;  to  Mr.  S.  II.  Scudder,  of  t»"^ 
Boston  Society  of  Natural  History  ;  Mr.  Kalusowski,  Librarian  tf 
the  United  States  Treasury  ;  Mr.  Buynitsky,  of  the  Treasury  T  e- 
partment ;  Mr.  Chew,  of  the  Department  of  State;  Mr.  "*  ung, 
of  the  Bureau  of  Stati  tics ;  Dr.  C.  A.  Parry,  of  the  Agricul- 
tural Bureau  ;  Captam  Patterson,  Mr.  Hilgaru,  and  other  offiwcrs 
of  the  United  .jtatcs  Coa.st  Survey  ;  Mr.  Bannister,  of  the  Smith- 
sonian Institution ;  Dr.  Torrey,  of  the  United  States  Assay 
Office;  Dr.  J.  T.  Rothrock,  of  the  Agricultural  College  of  Penn- 
sylvania; Dr.  Packard,  of  the  Peabody  Academy  of  Science; 
Dr.  Uhler,  of  the  Peabody  Institute  in  Baltimore  ;  Mr.  George 
(libbs  ;  Mr.  F.  B.  Meek;  Mr.  George  Davidson;  Dr.  A.  Kel- 
logg ;  Professor  Pxsche  ;  R.  D.  Cotter ;  Mr.  Chas.  Wright ;  Mr. 
J.  T.  Dyer;  VV.  H.  Ennis ;  Baron  O.  de  Bendeleben;  Mr.  Michael 
Lebarge  ;  Captain  P'rank  E.  Kctchum  ;  Mr.  George  R.  Adams ; 
F.  H.  Francis ;  Captain  Charles  Riedell ;  Miss  S.  K.  Dall,  and 
many  others,  he  is  indebted  for  information  or  assistance. 

The  illustrations  are  all  from  original  sketches  by  the  writer,  or 
from  the  articles  themselves,  and  owe  whatever  artistic  merit  they 
may  possess  to  the  pencil  of  Mr.  H.  W.  Elliott.  The  illustra- 
tions of  birds  were  engraved  by  Mr.  H.  H.  Nichols,  and  the 
others  are  by  Mr.  John  Andrew. 

The  map  is  a  photo-lithograph  from  the  original,  drawn  under 
the  direction   of  the  writer  and  now  in  the  possession  of  the 


Vlll 


INTRODUCTION. 


United  States  Coast  Survey,  and  was  put  on  stone  by  Mr.  Julius 
Bien,  of  New  York. 

The  ethnological  specimens  figured  are  mostly  from  the  col- 
lection of  the  Smithsonian  Institution. 

Should  further  details  be  desired,  reference  may  be  made  to 
the  works  of  which  a  list  is    given   in  the    Appendix.     Addi- 
tional information  of  any  kind   is  requested,  and  will  be  used 
and  full  credit  given,  should  a  future  opportunity  be  offered. 


Smithsonian  Institution,  November,  I869. 


CONTENTS. 


PART    I. 

TRAVELS  ON   THE  YUKON   AND    IN   THE   YUKON   TERRITORY. 


CHAPTER    I. 

Arrival  in  Norton  Sound.  —  Circumstances  of  previous  visit. — News  of  the 
death  of  Robert  Kennicott.  —  Change  of  plans.  —  Receive  my  appointment 
as  Director  of  the  Scientific  Corps,  and  determine  to  remain  in  the  country. 

—  Landing,  organization,  and  departure  of  the  vessels.  —  Departure  of  the 
Wilder  for  Unalaklik.  —  Russian  peechka.  —  St.  Michael's  Redoubt  and  Isl- 
and. —  Russian  traders.  —  Stepanoff.  —  Natives  and  their  houses.  —  Skin 
belts.  —  Departure  from  the  Redoubt.  —  Journey  to  Unalaklik.  —  Detention 
at  Kegiktowruk  —  Seal-hunting.  —  Innuit  graves.  —  Bath  as  enjoyed  by  the 
Innuit.  —  Character  of  the  coast.  —  Departure  from  Kegiktowruk. — Topa- 
nika.  —  Arrival  off  the  mouth  of  the  river.  —  Ice-cakes.  —  Arrival  at  Unala- 
klik. —  Cockroaches.  —  Native  clothing.  —  Description  of  the  post  and  vilKige. 

—  Deficiency  of  medical  supplies.  —  Departure  for  Nulato  via  Ulukuk. — 
Iktigalik  and  its  inhabiLints.  —  Telegraph  stew.  —  Escape  of  dogs  and  return 
to  Unalaklik. —  Russian  baths.  —  Disagreeable  trip  to  Iktigalik.  —  All  gone 
on  my  arrival.  —  Second  return  to  Unalaklik.  —  Impromptu  theatricals.  — 
Departure  for  Ulukuk.  —  Deserted  village.  —  Arrival  at   Ulukuk.  —  Springs. 

—  Transportation  of  goods.  —  Arrival  of  Mike  with  the  brigade  from  Nulato. 

—  Departure  for  Nulato.  —  Parhelia.  —  Mysterious  caterpillar.  —  First  view 
of  the  Yukon.  —  Arrival  at  Nulato 


Pacb 


CHAPTER    II. 

Arrival  at  Nulato,  and  introduction  to  the  Creole  bidarshik.  —  Description  of 
the  post  and  its  inhabitants.  —  Adjacent  points. —  History. — The  Nulato 
massacre  and  its  cause.  —  Barnard's  grave.  —  Daily  life  at  Nulato.  —  Larri- 
own. —  Koyukun  Indians.  —  Ingaliks. —  Kurilla. —  Plans  for  the  coming 
season.  —  Examination  of  a  coal-seam.  —  Nuklukahyet  chief.  —  Christm.is 
festivities.  —  New  Year's  and  erection  of  the  first  telegraph  i)ole.  —  Aurora.  — 
Return  of  Ketchum.  —  Collections  in  Natural  History.  —  Indian  rumor. — 
Cannibalism.  —  Russian  ingenuity.  —  P'ounding  of  Fort  Kennicott.  —  Depart- 
ure of  Ketchum  and  Mike  on  their  wintc!  journey  to  Fort  Yukon.  —  Arrival  of 
our  bidarra.  —  Trip  to  Woksatn.x'  barrabora.  —  Scarcity  of  food.  —  First  signs 
of  spring.  —  Rolibing  a  grave.  —  First  goose.  —  Indian  children.  —  Rescue  of 
the  bidarshik.  —  Anecdote  of  M.-\jor  Kennicott  and  erection  of  a  monument 
to  his  men'ory. —  Formation  o.''  alluvium. —  Prepar.itions  for  our  journey. — 
Breaking  up  of  the  ice  on  the  Yukon        ........ 


44 


■PPI 


X  CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER    III. 

Our  departure  from  Nulato.  —  Sukaree.  —  Crossing  in  the  Ice.  —  Peculation.  — 
Camp.  —  Koyukuk  Sopka.  —  Barter  on  the  Yukon.  —  Indian  grave.  —  Oos- 
kon.  —  Indian  pipes.  —  Tohonidola.  —  Koyukun  dress.  —  Catching  butterflies 
Melozikakat  River.  —  Arrival  at  Nowikakat.  — Trading  for  meat.  —  Shaman- 
ism. —  Indian  theology.  — Treating  the  sick.  —  Departure  from  Nowikakat.  — 
Hirch  canoes. —  Runaw.iy  from  Fort  Yukon.  —  Tozikakat  River.  —  Nuklu- 
kahyet  and  the  Twin  Mountains.  —  Nuklukahyet  tyone  and  other  Indians.  — 
Departure  from  Nuklukahyet.  —  The  Ramparts  and  Rapids.  —  Moose-killing. 

—  Pass  the  Ramparts.  —  Mosquitoes.  —  Plains  north  of  the  Yukon.  —  Kutcha 
Kutchin  camp.  —  Sachniti.  —  Arrival  at  Fort  Yukon.  —  History  of  the  fort. — 
Five  years  without  bread.  —  Degradation  of  the  servants  of  the  Hud.son  Bay 
Company. —  Intense  heat.  —  Arrival  of  the  bateaux. —  The  annual  trade. — 
Tenan  Kutchin  Indians.  —  Other  tribes.  —  Drowning  of  Cowley.  —  Red  Leg- 
gins. —  Arrival  of  Ketchum  and  Mike  — Missionaries  and  their  value. — 
Course  of  the  Hudson  Bay  Company  with  the  Indians.  —  Massacre  at  Fort 
Nelson. —  Indians  of  the  Western  United  Slates.  —  Furs  in  the  storehouse. 

—  Departure  from  Fort  Yukon.  —  Arrival  at  Nulato.  —  Unexpected  orders. 

—  Start  for  the  Yukon-mouth.  —  Seal  and  beluga  in  the  river.  —  Arrival  at  St. 
Michael's 74 

CHAPTER    IV. 

Arrival  of  the  vessel.  —  Arrange  to  remain  in  the  country.  —  Departure  of  the 
Clara  Bell.  —  Mushrooms.  —  Plans  for  the  season.  —  Start  for  Unalaklik. - - 
The  Major's  Cove.  —  Voyage  to  Kegiktowruk.  —  Description  of  the  casine. 
End   of  the   old  bidarra. —  Leave  Kegiktowruk. — Crossing  the  bar  of  the 
Unalaklik  River.  —  Send  back  for  the  goods.  —  Trip  to  Ulukuk.  —  Death  of 
Starcek.  —  Bears  and  bear-hunting.  —  Geological  rcconnoissance,  and  discov- 
ery of  fossils.  —  Return  to  Unalaklik.  —  Purchasing  winter  supplies.  —  Innuit 
of  Norton  Sound.  —  Tribes,  physique,  games,  kyaks.  —  Disposition,  morality, ' 
marri.iges,  and  infanticide.  —  Treatment  of  the  women,  and  work  allotted  toi 
the  sexes.  —  Dress,  labrets  of  the  different  tribes.  —  Property,  method  of  com- ' 
putation,   and   map-drawing.  —  Fire-drills.  —  ^Vcapons   of   bone,    flint,   and 
ivory.  —  Guns  and  trading.  —  Intercourse  with  Indians,  and  boundary  lines 
of  their  territory.  —  Shamanism.  —  Patron  spirits.  —  Interment  of  the  dead. 

—  Habits  and  means  of  gaining  subsistence  throughout  the  year.  —  Dances 
and  festivals.  —  Arrival  of  my  new  bidarra.  —  Sudden  illness,  and  departure 
for  the  Redoubt.  —  Storm  and  detention  at  Kegiktowruk.  —  Proceed  to  the 
Redoubt  on  foot.  —  Return  to  Unahiklik.  —  Kill  a  deer.  —  Cowardly  abuse  of 
the  natives  by  the  Russians.  —  Kamokin  and  his  barbarity  to  the  sick.  — 
Deaths  in  the  village.  —  Making  dog-harness 121 


CHAPTER    V. 

Arrival  of  Kurilla  and  the  dogs.  —  Departure  from  Unalaklik.  —  Various  kinds 
of  sledges,  —  Arrival  at  Iktigalik.  —  Series  of  detentions.  —  Indian  avarice. 

—  At   Ulukuk   and  across   the   portage. — Comparative   merits   of  different 
sledges.  —  Wohisatux.  —  Arrival  at  Nulato.  —  Sham  hysterics.  —  Fish-traps. 

—  Kurilla's   return. — Journey   to   the    Kaiyuh   River. —  Housekeeping. — 
Christmas  and  New-Year's.  —  Snaring  grouse.  —  Yukon  fish.  —  Continued 


CONTENTS. 


XI 


sickness.  —  Arrival  of  the  mail.  —  Start  for  the  Redoubt.  —  IIow  the  Russians 
travel  vs.  how  the  American.s  travel.  —  Arrival  at  the  Redoubt.  —  Return  to 
Iktigalik.  —  break-down  >d  repairs.  —  Dog-driving,  and  camp  life  in  the 
Yukon  territory.  —  Snowshoes. — Arrival  at  Nulato.  —  Expeditions  among 
the  Nulato  hills.  —  Hostile  Koyukuns.  —  Reasons  for  their  hostility.  —  Char- 
acter of  the  western  Tinneh.  —  Endurance.  —  rrev.-ilcnt  diseases.  -  Snow- 
goggles. —  Totems.  —  Dances  and  songs.  —  Arms.  —  Habits  of  life.—  Addi- 
tional notes  on  the  Kutchin  tribes.  —  Making  shot.  —  Attack  on  Tekunka  and 
the  result.  —Arrival  of  swallows  and  geese.  —  IJrcak-up  of  the  ice.  —  Narrow 
escape.  — Non-arrival  of  Indians. —  I'avloff's  departure 


164 


CHAPTER    VI. 

Departure  from  Nulato.  —  Lateness  of  the  season. —  Veto.  —  Kwikhtana  bar- 
rabora.  —  Lof k.Vs.  —  Habits  of  the  beaver.  —  Swan-shooting.  —  Indian  carv- 
ings. —  First  Indians,  —  Kl.-intilinten.  —  A  letter.  —  Meeting  with  the  Mahle- 
muts.  —  Anvik.  —  The  Stareck. —  Tottery. —  Sand-hill  cranes.  —  Canoes. — 
Leather  village  on  the  Shageluk.  —  Great  abundance  of  food.  —  Demand  for 
liquor  by  the  Mahlenii''^. — Dances. — Attack  and  narrow  escajjc.  —  Leave 
the  village.  —  Manki.  —  Kkogmuts.  —  Loon-cap  vilKige.  —  Carvings,  old 
houses  and  graves.  —  Great  breadth  of  the  Lower  Yukon.  —  Arrive  at  the 
Mission. — Pass  the  Great  Jiend.  —  Fishing-village. —  Myriads  of  wild  fowl. 
—  Energetic  collection  of  specimens.  —  R.isbinik  village.  —  Starry  Kwikhpak 
village.  —  Obtain  a  guide.  —  AndreafTsky.  —  Tragedy  in  1S55.  —  Mistake  of 
guide. — Arrive  at  the  Uphoon. —  Kutlik. —  Emperor  geese.  —  Arrival  of 
Teleezhik.  —  Go  on  to  I'astolik.  —  IJeluga-hunting.  —  Innuit  carvings. — 
Drawings  on  bone.  —  Rise  of  the  water.  —  Elephant  bones.  —  Start  for  the 
Redoubt. — News  of  the  ships.  —  Arrival  at  the  Redoubt,  and  meeting  with 
old  friends.  —  Traders.  —  Embarkation  for  California.  —  Abuses  prevalent  in 
the  new  territory. — Value  of  a  territorial  government  — Necessary  legisla- 
tion.—  Disparagement  of  the  territory.  —  Arrival  in  San  Francisco         .        .     207 


PART    II. 

f.EOGRAPHY,    HISTORY,    INHABITANTS,    AND    RF..SOURCES  OF    ALASKA. 

CHAI'TER     I. 

Cicncral  geographical  and  topographical  description  of  Alaska.  — Adjacent  seas. 
—  Groups  of  islands.  —  Coasts  and  harbors.  —  River  system. — Ocean  cur- 
rents.—  Mountain  chains  and  peaks.  —  Are.n. —  Earlier  maps.  —  Review  of 
some  recent  maps.  —  The  authorities  for  the  p.esent  map.  —  Field  for  future 
explorations 245 


CHAPTER    II. 

A  chronological  history  of  the  progress  of  exploration  and  trade  in  Alaska  and 
ihc  adjoining  territories,  from  1542  to  1868 


294 


xu 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER    III. 

Aboriginal  Inhabitants  of  Alaslta ^j^ 

CHAPTER    IV. 

Climate  and  Agricultural  Resources 433 

CHAPTER    V. 

Geology  and  Mineral  Resources ^cy 

CHAPTER    VI. 

Fisheries,  Fur  Trade,  and  other  Resources  not  previously  mentioned      .        .  481 

CHAPTER    VII. 

Adjacent  Territories  and  their  Inhabitants 506 

APPENDIX. 

A.  Glossary 529 

B.  Population  of  Alaska •       •  537 

C.  Statistics  of  the  Fur  Trade  of  Alaska 538 

D.  Meteorology 539 

E.  Latitude  and  Longitude  of  Importawt  Points  .....  545 

F.  Vocabularies 547 

G     Natural  History.  / 

List  of  the  Mammalia  of  Alaska 576 

List  of  the  Fishes  of  Alaska 579 

List  of  the  Birds  of  Alaska •        .        .        .  580 

List  of  the  I^pidoptera  of  Alaska 587 

List  of  the  Hymenoptera  of  Alaska 5^7 

List  of  the  Neuroptera  of  Alaska 588 

List  of  Useful  Plants  of  Alaska 589 

H.   List  of  Works  containing  Information  in   regard  to  Alaska 

and  the  Adjacent  Territories 595 

INDEX 610 


373 


433 


•  • 


4S7 


d      . 


481 


506 


• 

•       • 

529 

S37 

• 

• 

538 

539 

• 

. 

S4S 

547 

576 

• 

• 

579 
580 

• 

• 

587 
587 
588 
589 

ro 

Alaska 

PART    I. 


TRAVELS    ON    THE    YUKON    AND    IN    THE    YUKON 

TERRITORY. 


595 


610 


F 


lOur 


W 


CHAPTER     I. 

Arrival  in  Norton  Sound.  —  Circumstances  of  previous  visit.  —  News  of  the  death  of 
Robert  Kcnnicott.  —  Change  of  plans.  —  Receive  my  appointment  as  Director  of 
the  Scientific  Corps,  and  tletcrmine  to  remain  in  the  country.  —  Landing,  organiza- 
tion, and  departure  of  the  vessels.  —  Departure  of  the  Wilder  for  Unalaklik. — 
Russian  peechka.  —  St.  Michael's  Redoubt  and  Island.  —  Russian  traders.  —  Ste- 
panofT.  —  Natives  and  their  houses.  —  Skin  Iwats.  —  Departure  from  the  Redoubt. 

—  Journey  to  Unalaklik. -^  Detention  at  Kegiktowruk.  —  Seal-hunting.  —  Innuit 
graves.  —  IJath  as  enjoyed  by  the  Innuit.  —  Character  of  the  coast. —  Depar- 
ture from  Kegiktowruk.  —  Topanika.  —  Arrival  off  the  mouth  of  the  river.  —  Ice- 
cakes.  —  Arrival  at  Unalaklik.  —  Cockroaches.  —  Native  clothing.  —  Descrip- 
tion of  the  post  and  village.  —  Deficiency  of  medical  supplies.  —  Departure  for 
Nulato  via  Ulukuk.  —  Iktigalik  and  its  inhabitants.  —  Telegraph  stew.  —  Escape 
of  dogs  and  return  to  Unalaklik.  —  Russian  baths.  —  Disagreeable  trip  to  Iktigalik. 

—  All  gone  on  my  arrival.  —  Second  return  to  Unalaklik.  —  Impromptu  theatricals. 

—  Departure  for  Ulukuk. — Deserted  village.  —  Arrival  at  Ulukuk.  —  Spiings. — 
Transportation  of  goods.  —  Arrival  of  Mike  with  the  brigade  from  Nulato.  —  De- 
parture for  Nulato.  —  Parhelia.  —  Mysterious  caterpillar.  —  First  view  of  the  Yu- 
kon. —  Arrival  at  Nulato. 


ON  the  24th  of  September,  1866,  the  clipper  ship  Nightin- 
gale came  to  anchor  half  a  mile  southeast  of  Egg  Island, 
;  Norton  Sound. 

A  driving  storm  from  the  north  and  northeast  obscured  the 
I  atmosphere,  and  covered  the  deck  with  an  inch  or  two  of  half- 
melted  snow  and  hail.     The  waves  were  yellow  with  sediment, 
churned  up  by  their  own  violence,  and  the  very  white-caps  had 
la  sullied  look  which  spoke  of  shallow  water.     We  were  drawing 
[nineteen  feet,  with  a  rise  and  fall  of  the  waves  of  at  least  twelve 
Ifect  more,  and  the  breeze  was  freshening.     This  did  not  leave 
la  very  large  margin  under  the  keel,  and  the  well-known  rapidity 
jwith  which  a  north  wind  will  diminish  the  depth  of  water  in 
Ithe  Sound,  sometimes  making  a  difference  of  a  fathom  in  the 
Icourse  of  a  few  hours,  added  to  the  anxiety  of  our  ship's  officers. 
jOur  indefatigable  commander,  Captain  Scammon,  was  seriously 
ill.    Altogether,  the  circumstances  attending  our  arrival  in  the 
vicinity  of  Redoubt  St.  Michael's  were  not  propitious. 


THE  VUKON   TERRITORY. 


Ill 


A  little  more  than  a  year  before,  we  had  visited  this  point  in 
the  bark  Golden  Gate.  We  left  a  party  to  make  the  prelimi- 
nary explorations,  previous  lo  deciding  on  the  line  on  which  it 
was  proposed  to  build  the  international  telegraph.  This  party 
was  under  the  command  of  the  Director  oi  the  Scientific  Corps, 
Robert  Kennicott,  whose  previous  experience  in  the  Hudson  Bay 
Territory  to  the  westward  had  fitted  him  above  all  others  to  fill 
the  arduous  post  of  commander  of  the  explorations  in  Russian 
America.  Several  members  of  the  Scientific  Corps  were  of  his 
party,  and  to  their  combined  labors  we  looked  hopefully  for  a 
solution  of  the  problem  of  the  identity  of  the  Yukon  River  with 
the  so-called  Kwikhpak  of  the  Russians.  This  identity  was 
stoutly  upheld  by  Mr.  Kennicott,  though  persistently  denied  by 
many,  who  looked  upon  the  so-called  Colvile  River,  flowing  into 
the  Arctic  Ocean,  as  the  true  mouth  of  the  Yukon,  while  they 
considered  the  Kwikhpak  as  a  distinct  river.  The  question  was 
regarded  as  uncertain  by  all.  Information  received  from  the 
Russians,  however,  soon  put  the  matter  beyond  a  doubt,  and 
we  looked  to  Mr.  Kennicott  and  his  party  as  the  favored  few  who 
were  to  p  ss  the  term  incognita  between  the  limit  of  Russian 
explorations  and  the  Hudson  Bay  Territory,  and  thus  complete 
the  exploration  of  the  Lower  Yukon. 

Though  their  equipment  was  not  such  as  we  could  have  wished, 
and  though  grave  doubts  prevailed  as  to  the  value  of  a  miniature 
steamer,  of  which  much  had  been  expected,  still  we  left  all  of  them 
in  the  highest  spirits,  and  with  the  heartiest  wishes  for  their 
success,  as  we  sailed  slowly  away  from  Stuart  Island,  September  \ 
17,  1865. 

During  the  year  which  had  passed  many  changes  had   taken 
place  in  the  organization  of  the  Expedition.     No  word  had  been 
received  from  the  party  eve.n  through  the  Russian  mail,  which  is 
carried  overland  from  St.   Michael's  every  winter  to  Nushergak  \ 
and  thence  by  sea  to  Sitka. 

Various  detentions  kept  the  vessels  of  the  fleet  lying  in  San 
Francisco  Bay  long  after  they  should  have  reached  the  shores  of 
Bering  Sea,  and  it  was  only  in  the  month  of  July  that  the  Expe- 
dition finally  set  sail.  We  had  been  lying  in  Plover  Bay  .several ; 
weeks,  during  which  time  a  rumor  had  reached  us  that  an  explor- 
ing party  had  been  at  Grantley  Harbor  during  the  winter,  and  that 


THE   YUKON   TERRITORY. 


one  member  of  the  party  had  been  badly  frost-bitten.  All  were 
supposed  to  be  alive  and  well. 

Now  that  we  had  again  come  within  reach  of  our  friends  and 
companions,  our  anxiety  may  be  imagined.  The  state  of  the 
weather  and  our  distance  from  St.  Michael's,  almost  twelve  miles, 
prevented  our  landing  in  a  body.  A  boat  with  two  officers  was 
despatched  late  in  the  afternoon,  but  the  distance  and  the  still 
increasing  storm  forbade  us  to  expect  their  return  that  night. 

My  own  impatience  was  so  great  that  I  soon  abandoned  the 
attempt  to  sleep,  and  accompanied  the  officer  of  the  deck  in  his 
inclement  night-watch,  pacing  up  and  down  in  the  rain  and 
sleet ;  and  I  almost  fancied  that  there  was  something  derisive  in 
the  whistle  of  the  wind  through  the  rigging  and  insulting  in  the 
masses  of  slush  which  the  swaying  cordage  occasionally  threw  in 
our  faces. 

The  next  morning  the  storm  continued  with  little  abatement. 
About  noon  we  saw  the  steamer  George  S.  Wright,  which  we 
knew  had  arrived  with  the  commander  of  the  expedition  a  day  or 
two  before,  getting  up  steam  behind  the  point  of  Stuart  Island. 
About  four  o'clock  in  the  afternoon  she  came  out  and  anchored 
under  the  lee  of  Egg  Island  near  us,  and  we  soon  saw  a  boat  put 
off  from  her.  Every  glass  was  pointed  at  her,  and  every  eye  was 
strained  for  a  glimpse  of  some  familiar  face  ;  but  the  long  hair  and 
beards,  the  unfamiliar  deer-skin  dresses  and  hoods  defied  recog- 
nition. 

Pressing  forward  to  the  gangway,  as  the  first  man  came  over 
the  side,  my  first  question  was,  "  Where  is  Kennicott } "  and  the 
answer,  "  Dead,  poor  fellow,  last  May,"  stunned  me  with  its  sudden 
anguish.  I  stayed  to  hear  no  more,  but  went  to  my  cabin  as 
one  walks  in  a  dream. 

So  he  was  gone,  that  noble,  impetuous,  but  tender-hearted  man, 
who  had  been  to  me  and  many  others  as  more  than  a  brother ! 
During  the  past  two  years  many  had  had  bitter  controversies  with 
him,  but  all  felt  and  expressed  their  grief  at  his  untimely  death. 
He  was  one  who  made  enemies  as  well  as  friends,  but  even  ene- 
mies could  not  but  respect  the  purity  of  motive,  the  open-handed 
generosity,  the  consideration,  almost  too  great,  for  his  subor- 
dinates, and  the  untiring  energy  and  lively  spirits  which  were 
the  prominent  characteristics  of  the  man. 


THE  YUKON  TERRITORY. 


w'r 


The  details  of  his  explorations  and  death  will  be  found  else- 
where. His  body  had  been  tenderly  cared  for,  brought  down  the 
Yukon  from  the  point  where  he  died,  placed  in  a  vault  at  the 
Redoubt,  and  was  to  be  taken  home  in  charge  of  Mr.  Charles 
Pease,  who  had  been  his  friend  from  boyhood,  and  Mr.  II.  M. 
Hannister,  both  members  of  the  Scientific  Corps.  This  would 
leave  the  Corps  without  a  single  representative  in  the  whole  of 
Russian  America  north  of  Sitka. 

My  own  plan  had  been,  to  explain  the  operations  of  the  Corps 
during  the  past  year  to  Mr.  Kennicott,  and  if  approved  by  him 
to  cross  to  the  Siberian  side  and  obtain  such  information  and  col- 
lections as  opportunity  might  offer,  and  especially  to  determine 
by  the  barometer  the  height  of  the  different  volcanoes  for  which 
Kamchatka  is  renowned. 

Under  the  circumstances,  however,  and  considering  the  infor- 
mation in  regard  to  North  American  natural  history  and  geology 
more  important  than  that  relating  to  the  other  continent,  I  re- 
solved to  remain  at  St.  Michael's  or  in  the  valley  of  the  Yukon 
during  the  ensuing  season.  I  determined  to  use  my  best  energies 
to  complete  the  scientific  exploration  of  the  northwest  extremity 
of  the  continent,  as  it  had  been  planned  by  Mr.  Kennicott,  and 
which  comprised  the  exploration  of,  — 

First,  the  region  between  Fort  Yukon,  at  the  junction  of  the 
Yukon  and  the  Porcupine,  and  Nulato,  the  most  eastern  Russian 
post  on  the  former  river ; 

Second,  the  region  between  Nulato  and  the  sea,  westward  across 
the  portage,  and  south  by  way  of  the  Yukon  to  the  sea  ;  and,  — 

Lastly,  the  whole  region  bordering  on  Norton  Sound  and  the 
sea  to  the  north  and  south  of  it. 

Toward  this  considerable  collections  and  many  observations 
had  been  made  at  St.  Michael's,  but  little  had  been  done  in 
other  parts  of  the  country. 

Captain  Charles  S.  Bulkley,  U.  S.  A.,  Engineer-in-chief  of 
the  Expedition,  having  signified  his  desire  that  I  should  succeed 
Mr.  Kennicott  as  Director  of  the  Scientific  Corps,  and  learninii 
that  I  desired  to,  remain  in  the  country,  ordered  me  to  act  as 
Surgeon  in  general  charge  of  the  district  between  Bering  Strait 
and  the  Yukon.  I  submitted  my  plans  for  the  scientific  opera- 
tions of  the  coming  year  to  him,  and  they  met  with  his  entire 
approval. 


THE   YUKON    TERRITORY. 


unci  and  the 


Great  expedition  was  necessary  in  niakin}?  my  preparations. 

The  continued  north  wind  began  to  tell  on  the  depth  of  water 
in  the  Sound,  and  on  Saturday  we  grounded  with  every  swell. 
Luckily  the  bottom  here  is  an  impalpable  soft  mud,  without  any 
stones,  otherwise  the  old  Nightingale  would  have  left  her  bones 
there  ;  and  as  it  was,  every  few  moments  she  came  thumping 
down,  with  a  severity  that  shook  everything,  from  truck  to 
kelson. 

The  following  morning  it  cleared  off.  and  those  who  were 
to  remain  took  their  seats  in  a  large  scow  li)aded  with  coal,  which 
was  to  be  towed  ashore  by  the  steamer  Wilder.  The  Wilder  was 
one  of  two  small  stern-wheel  steamers,  built  in  San  Francisco, 
and  brought  up  on  the  deck  of  the  Nightingale,  designed  fo*- 
river  navigation.  They  were  shaped  much  like  an  old-fashioned 
tlat-iron,  and  were  just  about  as  valuable  for  the  jnirposes 
required  ;  being  unable  to  tow  anything,  or  to  carry  any  freight, 
while  in  a  breeze  of  any  strength  it  was  no  easy  matter  to  steer 
them. 

Sitting  pensively  on  the  larger  lumps  of  coal,  we  had  ample 
opportunity  of  studying  the  defects  of  our  tug,  and  it  became  an 
interesting  matter  as  to  what  we  should  do  if  she  should  break 
down  before  reaching  shore,  as  seemed  likely.  A  cold  and 
extremely  penetrating  rain  gave  us  a  foretaste  of  the  concom- 
itants of  exploration,  and  rendered  our  dej)arture  anything  but 
romantic.  Indeed,  I  could  not  help  thinking  that  we  bore  much 
more  resemblance  to  a  party  of  slaves  ai  route  for  the  galleys,  as 
Victor  Hugo  describes  them,  than  to  a  party  of  young  and  ardent 
explorers,  defying  the  powers  of  winter,  and  only  anxious  for  an 
opportunity  to  exhibit  our  prowess. 

We  finally  arrived  in  safety  at  the  landing,  near  the  Russian 
trading-post  of  St.  Michael.  Having  pocketed  some  biscuit,  I 
was  provisioned,  and,  picking  out  a  soft  plank  in  a  back  room, 
I  rolled  myself  in  a  blanket,  and  after  some  diificulty  got  to  sleep. 
The  rain  continued  ;  the  Russians  were  hokling  an  orgie,  with 
li(luor  obtained  from  the  vessels  ;  the  dogs  howled  nearly  all 
night ;  the  roof  leaked,  not  water,  but  fine  volcanic  gravel,  with 
which  it  was  covered.  If  this  is  a  sample  of  the  country,  I 
thought,  it  is  not  prepossessing  ! 

On  rising  in  the  morning  I  found,  as  might  be  expected,  that 


'i\ 


8 


THE  YUKON   TERRITORY. 


I  was  likely  to  feci  for  some  time  the  effect  of  my  new  style  of 
bed  in  a  way  that  was  anything  but  agreeable. 

On  Monday,  the  ist  of  October,  1866,  the  Nightingale  sailed 
for  Plover  Hay.  All  was  activity  on  shore,  preparing  the  Wilder 
and  all  available  boats  for  a  trip  to  Unalaklik,  the  seaboard 
terminus  of  the  portage  to  the  Yukon,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Una- 
laklfk  River.  My  friend,  Mr.  Whympcr,  the  genial  and  excellent 
artist  of  the  expedition,  proposed  to  leave  for  Unalaklik  on  the 
steamer. 

The  work  of  construction  and  exploration  had  been  divided. 
The  larger  number  of  men,  and  the  work  to  be  done  in  the  region 
west  of  the  Yukon,  had  been  placed  in  charge  of  Mr.  VV.  H. 
Ennis  and  several  assistants.  Here  the  work  of  exploration  had 
been  mainly  finished,  and  construction,  exclusive  of  putting  up 
the  wires,  was  to  be  immediately  commenced. 

The  work  of  exploration  and  future  construction,  to  the  north 
and  east  of  Nuldto  on  the  Yukon,  was  intrusted  to  Mr.  F.  E. 
Ketchum,  to  whom,   with  Mr.  Michael  Lebarge,  the  honor  of 
exploring  the  region  between  Nulato  and  Fort  Yukon  had  fallci 
after  Kennicott's  death. 

Mr.  Ketchum,  who  bore  the  title  of  Captain  in  the  service  of 
the  Expedition,  was  thoroughly  qualified  for  the  execution  of  the 
trust  committed  to  him.  He  had  been  eminently  faithful  to  Mr. 
Kennicott  during  his  arduous  explorations,  and  had  successfully 
carried  out  his  plans  after  his  death. 

I  proposed  to  accompany  him  to  Nuldto,  the  place  best  suited 
for  the  prosecution  of  the  scientific  work,  and  as  he  had  decided 
to  remain  for  a  while  at  St.  Michael's,  after  consultation  with  him, 
we  secured  a  room  in  the  Russian  quarters  together. 

On  Tuesday  the  steamer,  in  charge  of  Captain  E.  E.  Smith,  with 
a  Russian  pilot,  started  for  UnalakHk.  As  we  were  waving  our 
congratulations,  to  our  dismay  we  saw  her  come  to  a  stand-still, 
plump  on  a  rock  at  the  entrance  of  the  cove.  It  seemed  as  if  her 
career  were  about  to  come  to  an  ignominious  conclusion,  but  after 
a  good  deal  of  labor  she  worked  off  without  damage,  and  proceeded 
on  her  way. 

We  returned  to  our  quarters,  where  we  built  a  fire  in  the 
Russian  stove.  These  stoves  are  a  *'  peculiar  institution,"  in  use 
throughout  the  territory,  and  worthy  of  description.     Here  they 


THE  YUKON  TERRITORY. 


are  built  of  fragments  of  basalt,  the  prevalent  rock,  and  smeared 
inside  and  out  with  a  mortar  made  of  clay.  A  damper  in  the 
chimney  is  so  arranged  as  to  shut  off  all  draught,  and  is  taken 
out  when  the  fire  is  made.  After  the  whole  has  been  thoroughly 
heated  by  a  wood  fire  the  coals  are  removed.  The  damper  is  put 
in,  thus  preventing  the  escape  of  hot  air  by  the  chimney,  and 
without  further  fire  this  stove  will  warm  the  room  for  twenty-four 
hours.  It  is  admirably  suited  to  the  climate  and  country,  and  its 
only  objectionable  point  is  the  amount  of  room  it  occupies.  A 
i;ood  deal  of  cooking,  baking,  &c.,  can  be  accomplished  in  a  large 
one,  and  the  remainder  is  done  in  a  building  erected  for  the  pur- 
pose, and  called  the  fovdruia.  The  Russian  name  for  this  stove  is 
fci'chka,  but  an  iron  stove,  such  as  is  used  in  the  United  States,  is 
called  a  kana'la.  The  foundation  of  the  pedchka  is  of  wood,  filled 
in  with  volcanic  gravel,  and  covered  with  brick  or  slabs  of  lava. 
In  Russia  they  are  generally  built  of  brick  entirely,  and  arc  often 
tiled  over  on  the  outside  with  painted  tiles,  such  as  are  yet  to  be 
found  in  some  of  the  older  houses  in  New  England. 

Our  beds,  as  in  all  the  houses  in  this  part  of  the  territory,  were 
made  on  a  platform  raised  a  few  feet  from  the  floor,  and  about 
seven  feet  wide.  Mine  onsisted  of  a  reindeer  skin  with  the  hair 
on,  and  with  one  end  s.-vvn  'ip,  so  as  to  make  a  sort  of  bag  to  put 
the  feet  in  ;  a  pillow  of  wiiJ-goose  and  other  feathers  is  essential 
to  comfort ;  this,  with  a  pair  of  good  blankets,  is  all  that  one  needs 
in  most  instances.  Sheets  are  unknown  in  this  part  of  the  world, 
and  counterpanes  are  almost  so. 

Our  time  was  well  occupied  in  getting  everything  in  readiness 
for  transportation,  if  the  steamer  should  return  as  we  hoped.  If, 
as  was  probable,  she  found  ice  in  the  Unalakli'k  River,  she  would 
have  to  go  into  winter  quarters  at  once. 

Meanwhile  I  took  a  careful  survey  of  the  old  trading-post,  or 
Michaelovski  Redoubt,  as  the  Russians  call  it. 

By  order  of  Baron  Wrangell,  Michael  T^benkofi",  an  officer  of 
the  Russian  American  Company,  established  this  post  in  1833. 
It  is  stated  by  different  writers  to  be  in  latitude  63°  33'  or  63°  28' 
north,  and  longitude  161°  55'  or  161°  44'  west  of  Greenwich. 
Few  points  were  established  by  the  Russians  with  the  accuracy 
deemed  indispensable  in  modern  English  or  American  surveys. 
It  is  stated  by  Tikhm6nief  that,  in  1836,  the  Unali'gmuts  of  the 


lO 


THE  YUKON   TERRITORY. 


t  fli  I 


N  ll 


vicinity  attacked  the  Redoubt,  which  was  successfully  defended 
by  Kurupdnoff,  the  commander. 

It  is  built  of  spruce  logs,  brought  by  the  sea  from  the  mouths  of 
the  Yukon  and  Kuskoqufm,  which  annually  discharge  immense 
quantities  of  driftwood.  This  is  stacked  up  by  the  Russians  in 
the  fall,  for  miles  along  the  ccast  north  and  west  of  the  Redoubt, 
and  is  carried  in  winter  to  the  fort  over  the  ice  by  means  of  dogs 
and  slec'!.  No  other  fuel  exists  on  the  island  and  adjoining 
shores.  These  are  entirely  destitute  of  wood,  if  we  except  low, 
scrubby  willows  and  alders,  which  are  found  in  the  vicinity  of 
water.  St.  Michael's  is  situated  on  a  small  point  of  the  island  of 
the  same  name,  which  puts  out  into  the  sound  and  forms  a  small 
cove,  abounding  in  rocks  and  very  shallow.  Here  a  temporary 
landing-place  is  built  out  into  water  deep  enough  for  loaded  boats 
drawing  five  feet  to  come  up  at  high  tide.  This  is  removed  when 
winter  approaches,  as  otherwise  it  would  be  destroyed  by  the  ice. 
The  shore  is  sandy,  and  affords  a  moderately  sloping  beach,  on 
which  boats  may  be  drawn  up.  A  few  feet  only  from  high-water 
mark  are  perpendicular  banks  from  six  to  ten  feet  high,  composed 
of  decayed  pumice  and  ashes,  covered  with  a  layer,  about  four 
feet  thick,  of  clay  and  vegetable  matter  resembling  peat.  This 
forms  a  nearly  even  meadow,  with  numerous  pools  of  water,  which 
gradually  ascends  for  a  mile  or  more  to  a  low  hill  of  volcanic  ori- 
gin, known  as  the  Shaman  Mountain. 

The  fort  is  composed  of  log  buildings  with  plank  roofs,  placed  in 
the  form  of  a  square,  and  with  the  intervals  filled  by  a  palisade  about 
ten  feet  high,  surmounted  by  a  chciHiiix-dc-frise  of  pointed  stakes. 
This  is  also  continued  round  the  eaves  of  the  buildings.  There  are 
two  outlying  bastions,  pierced  for  cannon  and  musketry,  and  con- 
taining a  number  of  pieces  of  artillery  of  very  small  calibre  and 
mostly  very  old-fashioned  and  rusty,  except  two  fine  brass  howitzers 
of  more  modern  manufacture.  The  principal  buildings  are  the  com- 
mander's house,  —  consisting  of  two  private  rooms,  an  armory  and 
a  counting-room,  or  contoriim, — a  couple  of  buildings  used  as  store- 
houses, a  bath-house,  and  separate  houses  for  the  married  and 
unmarried  workmen.  There  is  a  flag-staff  leaning  apologetically 
as  if  consciously  out  of  place,  and  a  gallery  for  the  watchman,  who 
is  on  duty  day  and  night,  with  reliefs,  and  who  tolls  a  bell  on  the 
hour  stroke  to  notify  the  inmates  that  he  is  not  asleep.     One  of 


"ully  defended 

the  mouths  of 
irge  immense 
:  Russians  in 

the  Redoubt, 
neans  of  dogs 
md  adjoining 
e  except  low, 
le  vicinity  of 

the  island  of 
forms  a  small 

a  temporary 
■  loaded  boats 
emoved  when 
:d  by  the  ice. 
ing  beach,  on 
m  high-water 
gh,  composed 
r,  about  four 
J  peat.  This 
f  water,  which 

volcanic  ori- 


)ofs,  placed  in 
)alisade  about 
Dinted  stakes. 
;s.  There  are 
;try,  and  con- 

I  calibre  and 
■ass  howitzers 
s  are  the  com- 

II  armory  and 
used  as  store- 
married  and 

ipologetically 

Itch  man,  who 

a  bell  on  the 

2ep.     One  of 


THE  Yr»  ■ « 


»f 


^'..attci i.  d  ahrul  :  :i  .sun-clia1  is  to 
Hid  a  ii.'iicuahle  feature  in  the 
'iw'ood   "'ImcIi.  fioni  a  distance. 


•  ■unit  and  the  inaiii- 
vifich  tlirre  fcitho)iis 


J -le  bastions  i*:  withou?  cannuo..  ar*4    ».  ♦  v  ;   ?s   i   ;  ^Aipihd^^  for 
f refractory  subject.'^. 

Outside  of  the  stockade  ar :  w-vcra'.     jK^-  buddings,  —  a  snuul 

!reh<vUso  U3ed  for  furs,  a  l.irjjr  vb«l  '.  ^".     Lvi.jtN  -irc  drawn  up  in 

,  tter.  a  blacksmith's  shoj ,  .'.tul  i  chui  The  \m'.cv  is  octagonal 

shape,  with  a  small  donn  ,  ii!<'fr«oumk"^  by  a  cios^,  and  a  lieam 

^>  diring  a  beil  at  the  side  of  .-s  •  porih  v^hich  covens  the  door 

-\-%f.     Other  small  buildings  ,' 

.  .  ft^und  not  far  from  the  chui 

...il  is  the  stacks  of  bleached 

...k  not  unlike  tents  or  bastioM 

'<-£t\v<'cn  the  point  on  which  '      VWchac!- 

■■■Ht.  a  small  arm  ot   the  sea  ;?kV' -   ui,  ii> 

iV  be   carried    uri\ti    the    fl.,     .  .  '    m    the    \<yr'    bear-'   west  by 

1^,      This  is  the  bestprote.-tr^    ,vU-'!''iaL;t'   .(<'  has  a^  much 

-  ..■  ■;   ind  as  good  Ixittom  as  can  !■    i'./  j--^.f  miu-h  K  •■   ;f  out. 

'   the  southwest  c\trenHi.y  vi    h.     j-rv  knuvvi>  ;i-   i  clKukotl' 

■•'     wo  enter  a  narrow  ani  tortu'His  cltanin.-l,  often  i>  it  mare 

V    liitty  feet  wide.  whii:h  s-rparates  the  island  of  .St.    Mi.»'iae! 

'(-■    »';c  mainland.     Tlii''.  has  been  aptly  nanit-d.  the  Canal  by 

^-   '.    .sians,  and  it  divides  midway  into  two  branches  wliieh  are. 

•.'■..•;   to  me.   eqii  illy   tortuous.   thv)Uf;h    th.-}    are    styled    the 

,  .*.   and  the  Crooked  re.-ipectiv<''y. 

:'  'r>ainland  near  St.  Michael's  gra'iually  rises  bom  the  Canal 
.'-^  adjacent  shores  into  low  basaltic  Kills,  with  a  riii;.:;ed  and 

•  iiough  not  elevated  coast. 

•  nmales  of  the  f(.rt  —  with  the  exceptinn  oi  9>i''<rc\  Stcpan 

;otf,  an  old  soldier,  v.h.>  commands  not  only  this,  but  all 

,   uiEj-postc.  in   the  i:)isirict  of  .^1.   ■Michael,  ur.ilcr  the  title 

■:  >Vi>lisha  —  may  be  divided    into   IhKi"  elas-^i        (..oiivicts, 

•    and  natives. 

.voiknjen   of    the   kus'-ian   Ameriean   Coni|M:i\    wen,  al- 

.     ^'.'ithont    e.xccption,    convicts,    mo-lls    from    Sii-.;ria,  wheie 

impany  was   ori).iii;:!!h    or{^anized.     Tiny  ni^n.   men  eon- 

nf  such  crimes  as  theft,  incorrii;ib[e  dru^kcnne^^.  lair'^lary, 

;'Vf>.n   mansla'ighler.      Those   men,  at'ter   a    continued    vesi- 

m  the  country,  naturally  took  to  themselves  wives.  af><'r  the 

•11  of  the  country,  snee  Russian  subjects  in  the  Cumpany's 

■.  were  juohibilcd  from  leg.il  marriage  with  native  women 


tSSBft 


THE   YUKON    TERRITORY. 


I  I 


the  bastions  is  without  cannon,  and  is  used  as  a  guard-house  for 
refractory  subjects. 

Outside  of  the  stockade  are  several  other  buildings,  —  a  small 
storehouse  used  for  furs,  a  large  shed  where  boats  are  draw.i  up  in 
winter,  a  blacksmith's  shop,  and  a  church.  The  latter  is  octagonal 
in  shape,  with  a  small  dome,  surmounted  by  a  cross,  and  a  beam 
bearing  a  bell  at  the  side  of  a  small  porch  which  covers  the  door- 
way. Other  small  buildings  are  scattered  about  ;  a  sun-dial  is  to 
be  found  not  far  from  the  church,  and  a  noticeable  feature  in  the 
fall  is  the  stacks  of  bleached  driftwood,  which,  from  a  distance, 
look  not  unlike  tents  or  bastions. 

Between  the  point  on  which  St.  Michael's  is  built  and  the  main- 
land, a  small  arm  of  the  sea  makes  in,  in  which  three  fathoms 
may  be  carried  until  the  flagstaff  of  the  fort  bears  west  by 
north.  This  is  the  best-protected  anchorage,  and  has  as  much 
water  and  as  good  bottom  as  can  be  found  much  farther  out. 

At  the  southwest  extremity  of  this  arm,  known  as  Tcbenkoft" 
Cove,  we  enter  a  narrow  and  tortuous  channel,  often  not  more 
than  fifty  feet  wide,  which  separates  the  island  of  St.  Michael 
from  the  mainland.  This  has  been  aptly  named  the  Canal  by 
the  Russians,  and  it  divides  midway  into  two  branches  which  are, 
it  seems  to  me,  equally  tortuous,  though  the)'  are  styled  the 
Straight  and  the  Crooked  respectively. 

The  mainland  near  St.  Michael's  gradually  rises  from  the  Canal 
and  the  adjacent  shores  into  low  basaltic  hills,  with  a  rugged  and 
rocky,  though  not  elevated  coast. 

The  inmates  of  the  fort  —  with  the  exception  of  Sergei  Stepan- 
olT  Riisanoff,  an  old  soldier,  who  commands  not  only  this,  but  all 
the  trading-posts  in  the  District  of  St.  Michael,  under  the  title 
of  Uprovalisha  —  may  be  divided  into  three  classes:  convi  is, 
Creoles,  and  natives. 

The  workmen  of  the  Russian  American  Company  were,  al- 
most without  exception,  convicis,  mostly  from  Siberia,  where 
the  Company  was  originally  u;g;tnized.  They  were  men  con- 
victed of  such  crimes  as  theft,  incorrigible  drunkenness,  burglary, 
and  even  manslaughter.  These  men,  after  a  continued  resi- 
dence in  the  country,  naturally  took  to  themselves  wives,  after  the 
fashion  of  the  country,  since  Russian  subjects  in  the  Company's 
employ  were  prohibited  from  legal  marriage  with  native  women. 


• 


i 


12 


THE  YUKON   TERRITORY. 


These  connections  are  looked  upon  with  a  diflferent  feeling  from 
that  which  prevails  in  most  communities,  and  these  native 
women  mix  freely  with  the  few  Russian  ind  half-breed  women  in 
the  territory  who  have  been  legally  married.  Their  children  are 
termed  Creoles,  and  formerly  were  taken  from  their  parents  and 
educated  in  Sitka  by  the  Company,  in  whose  service  they  were 
obliged  to  pass  a  certain  number  of  years,  when  they  became 
what  is  called  "free  Creoles,"  and  were  at  liberty  to  continue  in 
the  service  or  not,  as  they  liked.  Many  of  the  most  distinguished 
officers  of  the  Company  were  Creoles,  among  them  Etolin,  Kush- 
evaroff,  and  Malakoflf. 

There  are  a  few  Yakuts  in  the  service  of  the  Company,  and  these, 
with  some  native  workmen,  who  are  generally  of  the  tribe  which 
inhabits  the  immediate  vicinity  of  the  post,  compose  the  garrison. 

The  regular  workman  gets  about  fifty  pounds  of  flour,  a  pound 
of  tea,  and  three  pounds  of  sugar,  a  month  ;  his  pay  is  about 
twenty  cents  a  day.  Some  of  the  older  men  get  thirty  cen«"  and 
a  corresponding  addition  to  the  ration  of  flour.  They  work  with 
little  energy  and  spirit  as  a  general  thing,  but  can  accomplish 
a  great  deal  if  roused  by  necessity.  Small  offences  are  punished 
by  confinement  in  the  guard-house,  or  boofka,  and  greater  ones  by 
a  thrashing  administered  by  the  commander  in  person  ;  those  who 
commit  considerable  crimes  are  forced  to  run  the  gauntlet,  receive 
one  or  two  hundred  blows  with  a  stick,  or  in  extreme  cses  are  sent 
for  trial  to  Sitka,  or,  in  case  of  murder,  to  St.  Petersburg. 

The  present  Uprovali'sha,  Stepanoff",  has  been  in  office  about 
four  years.  He  is  a  middle-aged  man  of  great  energy  and  iron 
will,  with  the  Russian  fondness  for  strong  liquor  and  with  un- 
governable passions  in  certain  directions.  He  has  a  soldier's  con- 
tempt for  making  money  by  small  ways,  a  certain  code  of  honor 
of  his  own,  is  generous  in  his  own  way,  and  seldom  does  a  mean 
thing  when  he  is  sober,  but  nevertheless  is  a  good  deal  of  a  brute. 
He  will  gamble  and  drink  in  the  most  democratic  way  with  his 
workmen,  and  bears  no  mauce  for  a  black  eye  when  received  in  a 
drunken  brawl ;  but  woe  to  the  unfortunate  who  infringes  discipline 
while  he  is  sober,  for  he  shall  certainly  receive  his  reward  ;  and 
Stepanoff  often  says  of  his  men,  when  speaking  to  an  American, 
"  You  can  expect  nothing  good  of  this  rabble  :  they  left  Russia 
because  they  were  not  wanted  there." 


THE  YUKON   TERRITORY. 


13 


The  commanders,  or  hiddrshiks,  of  the  smaller  posts  in  the  Dis- 
trict of  St.  Michael  are  appointed  by  Stepanoff,  who  has  absolute 
authority  over  them,  and  does  not  fail  to  let  them  understand  it, 
making  them  row  his  boat,  when  the  annual  supply-ship  is  in  port, 
as  Alexander  might  have  called  his  captive  kings  to  do  him  menial 
service.  But  Stepanoff  trembles  before  the  captain  of  the  ship  or 
an  old  officer  of  the  Company,  much  in  the  same  way  that  his 
workmen  cringe  before  him.  This  sort  of  subserviency,  the  fruit 
of  a  despotic  government,  is  characteristic  of  the  lower  classes  of 
Russians  ;  and  to  such  an  extent  is  it  ingrained  in  their  characters 
that  it  seems  impossible  for  them  to  comprehend  any  motives  of 
honor  or  truthfulness  as  being  superior  to  self-intercst. 

The  native  inhabitants  of  this  part  of  the  coast  belong  to  the 
great  family  of  Innuit.  The  name  of  the  tribe  is  Unalcd,  and  their 
name  for  the  village,  half  a  mile  west  of  the  Redoubt  on  the  island 
of  St.  Michael,  is  T'satsi'nni.  The  few  families  living  there  bear 
the  local  designation  of  Tutsigcmnt,  much  as  we  should  say 
Bostonian  or  New-Yorker.  The  village  comprises  half  a  dozen 
houses  and  a  dance-house,  built  in  the  native  fashion  ;  that  is  to 
say,  half  underground,  with  the  entrance  more  or  less  so,  and  the 
roof  furnished  with  a  square  opening  in  the  centre,  for  the  escape 
of  smoke  and  admission  of  light. 


Diagram  of  Innuit  T(5pek. 


They  are  built  of  spruce  logs,  without  nails  or  pins,  and  are 
usually  about  twelve  or  fifteen  feet  square.  The  entrance  is  a 
small  hole  through  which  one  must  enter  on  hands  and  knees,  and 
is  usually  furnished  with  a  bear  or  deer  skin  or  a  piece  of  matting 
to  exclude  the  air.  Outside  of  this  entrance  is  a  passage-way, 
hardly  larger,  which  opens  under  a  small  shed,  at  the  surface  of 
the  ground,  to  protect  it  from  the  weather. 


H 


THE   YUKON    TERRITORY. 


1 


They  are  about  eight  feet  high  in  the  middle,  but  the  caves  are 
rarely  more  than  three  or  four  feet  above  the  ground.  The  floor 
is  divided  by  two  logs  into  three  areas  of  nearly  equal  size,  the 
entrance  being  at  the  end  of  the  middle  one.  This  portion  of 
the  floor  is  always  the  native  earth,  usually  hardened  by  constant 
passing  over  it.  In  the  middle,  under  the  aperture  in  the  roof, 
the  fire  is  built,  and  here  are  sometimes  placed  a  few  stones. 
On  either  side  the  portion  separated  by  the  logs  before  men- 
tioned is  occupied  as  a  place  to  sit  and  work  in  during  the  day, 
and  as  a  sleeping-place  during  the  night.  The  earth  is  usually 
covered  with  straw,  or  spruce  branches  when  obtainable,  and 
over  this  is  laid  a  mat  woven  out  of  grass.  Sometimes  the 
.space  is  raised,  or  a  platform  is  built  of  boards,  or  iogs  hewn  flat 
on  one  side.  This  is  a  work  of  such  labor,  however,  that  it  is 
seldom  resorted  to.  The  beds,  which  generally  consist  of  a 
blanket  of  dressed  deerskin,  or  rabbit-skins  sewed  together,  are 
rolled  up  and  put  out  of  the  way  during  the  day.  Almost  all 
sorts  of  work  are  done  in  the  houses  after  the  cold  weather  sets 
in.  At  this  time,  however,  there  did  not  appear  to  be  any  people 
in  the  village,  and  Captain  Ketchum  told  mt'  that  they  would  not 
return  for  a  week  or  two,  being  absent  at  Pastolik,  where  they 
were  killing  the  beluga  or  white  whale.  A  solitary  old  woman, 
perhaps  of  exceptional  uglineis,  spent  her  time  picking  berries, 
which  were  abundant  near  the  village. 

Sumiay,  October  jth.  —  A  party  of  natives  of  the  Mahlemut 
tribe  arrived,  in  a  skin  boat,  bringing  letters  from  UnalakHk, 
saying  that  the  boats  had  arrived  safely  at  that  point.  The  tur- 
rets or  bastions  of  the  Russian  post  were  being  fitted  up  for  the 
accommodation  of  the  officers,  and  winter  quarters  for  the  men 
were  being  arranged  and  made  comfortable.  The  ground  was 
well  covered  with  snow,  and  we  were  advised  to  use  all  practi- 
cable expedition  in  reaching  UnalakKk  by  water,  before  the  forma- 
tion of  ice  should  interfere  with  navigation.  The  thermometer 
averaged  9°  Fahrenheit  during  the  day,  and  no  time  was  to  be 
lost. 

We  therefore  made  arrangements  for  starting  the  next  day,  — 
Captain  Ketchum  and  myself  in  one  boat,  Mr.  Westdahl  our 
astronomer,  and  a  party  of  natives,  with  two  others. 

The  skin  boats,  in  which  most  of  the  travelling  by  water  is  done, 


1. 

I 


THE   YUKON    TERRITORY. 


'15 


are  of  three  kinds.    One  is  a  large  open  boat,  flat-bottomed  and  con- 
sisting of  a  wooden  frame  tied  with  sealskin  thongs,  or  rdmni,  and 


Bidarri. 


with  the  skins  of  the  seal  properly  prepared,  oiled,  and  sewed  to- 
gether, stretched  over  this  frame  and  held  in  place  by  walrus-skin 
line,  or  mdliout.  This  kind  of  boat  is  known  among  all  the  In- 
nuit  by  the  name  oSmiak,  and  is  called  a  bidarrd  by  the  Russians. 


ater  is  done, 


Bidirka. 

Another,  a  smaller  boat,  for  one  man,  is  made  essentially  in  the 
same  way,  but  covered  completely  over,  except  a  hole  in  which  the 
occupant  sits,  and  around  the  projecting  rim  of  which,  when  at  sea, 
he  ties  the  edge  of  a  waterproof  shirt,  called  a  kamldyka  by  the 
Russians.  This  is  securely  tied  around  the  wrists  and  face  also  ; 
the  head  being  covered  by  a  hood,  so  that  no  water  can  by  any 
means  penetrate  to  the  interior  of  the  boat.  This  boat  is  called 
by  the  natives  a  kyak,  and  by  the  Russians  a  biddrka. 

The  other  kind  is  used  only  by  the  Russians,  and  was  copied 
from  those  of  the  Aleutians,  differing  from  the  last  only  by  being 
longer  and  having  two  or  three  holes  ;  it  is  adapted  to  carry  two  or 
three  people.  These  boats  are  admirably  light  and  strong,  and 
extremely  valuable  for  making  short  journeys.  It  is,  with  persons 
skilled  in  their  use,  all  but  impossible  to  swamp  them,  and  the 
Russians  have  introduced  them  into  every  part  of  the  territory 
as  an  invaluable  adjunct  to  exploration.  They  call  them  simply 
two  or  three  holed  bidarkas.  They  are  propelled  by  single  or 
double  ended  paddles,  and  attain  an  extraordinary  speed. 

Monday,  ^tli.  —  The  weather  being  clear  and  fine,  the  wind 
nearly  fair,  we  determined  to  put  off  for  Unalaklfk.  We  left  St. 
Michael's  about  noon,  Westdahl  leading,  but  the  wind  hauling 
ahead  we  ran  closer  in,  and  left  him  making  a  long  tack,  which 
Kctchum  was  rather  apprehensive  would  be  unsuccessful,  as  it  is 


ti 


THE   YUKON   TERRITORY. 


impossible,  or  almost  so,  to  beat  against  the  wind  with  one  of 
these  flat-bottomed  skin  boats. 

About  eight  o'clock  p.  M.  we  put  into  a  small  rocky  cove  about 
twenty-two  miles  from  the  Redoubt.  This,  from  two  small  rocky 
islets  which  protect  it,  is  known  to  the  Unaleets  as  Kcgiktownik, 
a  word  derived  from  kikhtitk,  meaning  an  island.  There  is  quite 
a  village  on  the  high  bank  back  of  the  cove,  and  the  inhabitants 
came  down  and  helped  us  to  haul  our  boat  up  on  a  sort  of  ways, 
built  of  round  logs,  held  in  place  by  large  masses  of  rock.  These 
are  necessary,  as  the  cove  is  very  shallow  and  so  full  of  rocks  that 
the  skin  boats  are  very  liable  to  be  cut  on  them  at  low  tide. 
There  were  no  signs  of  the  other  boats. 

The  village  is  notable  on  account  of  the  number  of  graves 
scattered  over  the  plain  about  it,  and  also  for  the  large  size  of  the 
dance-house,  or  casinc  as  the  Russians  term  it.  This  building  is 
to  be  found  in  almost  every  village,  and  serves  for  a  general  work- 
room, a  sort  of  town-hall,  a  steam  bath-house,  a  en -avanserai  for 
travellers,  and  a  meeting-house  for  celebrating  their  annual  dances 
and  festivals. 

It  is  usually  the  largest  and  cleanest  house  in  the  village,  and 
generally  empty  at  night,  so  that  travellers  prefer  it  to  one  of  the 
smaller  and  more  dirty  and  crowded  houses.  In  the  present  case 
we  were  quartered  in  it  very  comfortably. 

We  immediately  sent  out  our  teakettle,  in  this  country  always 
made  of  copper,  and  universally  known  as  the  c/iynik,  —  tea  be- 
ing c/iy  in  the  Russian,  a  derivative  from  the  original  Chinese 
c/ia/i. 

Chy  being  ready,  we  imbibed  deeply,  and  filling  up  the  chynik 
with  water  we  dispensed  the  diluted  fluid  to  our  native  friends,  in 
the  bountiful  tin  cups  provided  by  the  Company.  A  small  hand- 
ful of  broken  biscuit  added  to  the  acceptability  of  the  treat  and 
disguised  the  weakness  of  the  chy.  This  is  the  invariable  and 
e.xpected  tribute  to  the  hospitality  of  the  natives  from  all  travellers 
who  avail  themselves  of  the  casine  and  other  accommodations  of 
the  village  ;  for  which  the  Innuit  have  not  yet  learned  to  charge 
by  the  night's  lodging. 

Appreciating  the  banquet,  and  warmed  to  enthusiasm  by  the 
hot  water,  an  old  blear-eyed  individual  seized  an  article  something 
between  a  drum  and  a  tambourine,  and  began  to  beat  upon  it  with 


THE   YUKON   TERRITORY. 


17 


with  one  of 

J  cove  about 
small  rocky 
Kcgiktowrnk, 
icre  is  quite 
i  inhabitants 
sort  of  ways, 
ock.  These 
of  rocks  that 
at  low  tide. 

ler  of  graves 
ge  size  of  the 
s  building  is 
jeneral  work- 
avanserai  for 
nnual  dances 

3  village,  and 

Ito  one  of  the 

present  case 

luntry  always 
ik,  —  tea  be- 
iiial  Chinese 

p  the  chynik 
ve  friends,  in 
.  small  hand- 
he  treat  and 
variable  and 
all  travellers 
odations  of 
|ed  to  charge 

kasm  by  the 

le  something 

upon  it  with 


a  long  clastic  rod.  lie  was  joined  by  all  the  old  men  in  tlic 
vicinity,  in  a  dismal  chorus  of 

Ung  lii  Villi,  ah  ha  yah,  yali  yah  yah,  &c., 

keeping  time  upon  his  drum  with  an  energy  which  showed  that  the 
vigor  of  his  youth  liad  not  tleparted  from  him. 

Four  or  five  of  the  young  men  began  to  dance,  posturing  in 
different  attitudes,  moving  their  arms  and  legs,  stamping  on  the 
floor,  all  in  perfect  accord  with  one  another,  and  keeping  accurate 
time  with  the  drum.  We  were  too  tired,  however,  to  appreciate 
tills  exhibition,  and  signified  as  much  to  the  company,  who  finally 
left  us  to  enjoy  a  good  night's  rest. 

Tuesday,  ()t/i. — We  were  awakened  by  an  officious  native,  who 
put  his  head  in,  bawling  at  the  top  of  his  lungs  that  the  weather 
was  bad,  very  bad  indeed,  and  that  we  could  not  get  away  to- 
day ;  after  which  pleasing  piece  of  information  he  left  us  to  our 
own  reflections. 

Cn  getting  up  and  going  out  I  found  that  the  sky  was  cloudy 
and  the  wind  adverse,  and  ordering  one  of  our  Mahlemuts  to  put 
on  the  chynik,  I  went  down  and  reported  the  situation,  which 
involved  our  remaining  a  day  or  two  where  we  were.  Ureakfast, 
consisting  of  chy,  with  sugar,  —  but  of  course  no  milk,  —  biscuit, 
and  a  savory  piece  of  bacon,  was  duly  discussed  ;  and  after  a  com- 
forting pipe,  we  were  quite  ready  to  bear  our  detention  with  the 
true  voyageur's  philosophy. 

I  went  out,  and  soon  made  the  acquaintance,  by  signs  and  the 
very  few  native  words  which  I  had  picked  up,  of  a  fine-looking 
young  Miihlemut,  who  was  also  on  his  way  to  Unalakh'k  with  his 
family.  The  interview  commenced  by  his  begging  for  a  little 
tobacco,  upon  receiving  which  he  was  so  delighted  as  to  take  me 
to  his  tent,  a  poor  little  affair,  made  of  unbleached  sheeting  pro- 
cured from  the  Russians.  Here  he  introduced  me  by  signs  to  his 
wife  and  child,  the  latter  about  two  years  old.  The  former  was 
not  particularly  ugly  or  pretty,  but  was  engaged  in  manufacturing 
tinder,  which  rather  detracted  from  the  neatness  of  her  person. 
This  tinder  is  made  out  of  the  fur  of  the  rabbit,  the  down  from  the 
seed-vessels  of  the  river  poplar,  or  cotton  lint  obtained  from  the 
Russians  ;  either  of  which  is  rubbed  up  with  charcoal  and  water, 
with  a  very  little  gunpowder,  and  then  dried.     The  rubbing  pro- 


:  I 


i8 


THE  YUKON  TERRITORY. 


cess  was  just  going  on,  and  I  was  thankful  that  etiquette  did  not 
require  hand-shaking,  among  the  Innuit  of  Norton  Sound.  The 
husband  was  a  fine-looking,  athletic  fellow,  standing  about  five 
feet  five  inches,  with  a  clear  brunette  complexion,  fine  color,  dark 
eyes,  and  finely  arched  eyebrows.  The  flat  nose,  common  to  all 
the  ICskimo  tribes,  was  not  very  strongly  marked  in  him,  and  a 
pleasant  smile  displaying  two  rows  of  very  white  teeth  conquered 
any  objection  I  might  have  felt  to  his  large  mouth.  The  baby 
looked  like  any  other  baby,  and  was  notable  only  from  never  show- 
ing any  disposition  to  disturb  the  peace. 

Returning  after  awhile  to  the  casine,  I  observed  that  the  aper- 
ture in  the  roofwas  closed  by  a  covering  composed  of  the  intestines 
of  seals,  cut  down  on  one  side,  cleaned,  oiled,  and  sewed  together 
into  a  sheet,  which  is  sufficiently  translucent  to  admit  the  light 
while  it  retains  the  warm  air. 

The  universal  salutation  of  the  Innuit  is  Chammi !  Chammi ! 
and  as  likely  as  not,  some  greasy  old  fellow  will  hug  you  like 
a  brother  upon  a  first  meeting.  As  they  are  given  to  raising  a 
certain  kind  of  live-stock,  this  method  of  proceeding  is  not  likely 
to  suit  the  fastidious. 

A  note  arrived  from  Westdahl  by  a  native,  one  of  his  crew, 
saying  that  on  account  of  rough  weather  he  had  been  obliged 
to  put  into  a  small  cove,  some  miles  south  of  us,  had  cut  Lis 
bidarrd  on  the  rocks  and  wet  i-Omost  everything. 

Ketchum  immediately  despatci,  '  '"'>'•-  "^en  with  a  needle,  some 
twisted  thread  made  of  deer  sinew,  callea^'^.u,  .  'id  a  piece  of  seal- 
skin prepared  for  use,  technically  known  as  litvtdk.  These,  with 
some  grease  to  rub  on  the  seam,  are  all  that  is  needed  to  repair 
any  injury  done  to  the  skin  of  a  bidarrd  or  bidarka. 

Wednesday,  \otJi.  —  The  water  of  the  littie  lovc  in  front  of  the 
village  was  white  with  foam  when  we  rose  in  ihe  morning  :  evi- 
dently we  were  not  to  get  away  yet.  We  »vj;ked  over  to  a  small 
bay  on  the  other  side  of  the  point  on  which  Kegiktowruk  is  situ- 
ated. Here  we  found  a  cache,  that  is  to  say,  a  kind  of  small  log  en- 
closure about  six  feet  squire,  covered  with  logs  held  down  by  heavy 
stones.  In  it  were  the  bodies  of  four  small  hair  seal,  called  m^rpa 
by  the  Russians  and  nlksuk  by  the  Mdhlemuts.  They  are  covered 
with  short,  stiff  hair  of  a  greenish  silvery  tinge,  with  darker  spots 
surrounded  by  dark  rings,  especially  on  the  back.    The  young  are 


THE   YUKON   TERRITORY. 


«9 


tte  did  not 
)iuul.     The 
about  five 
color,  dark 
imon  to  all 
him,  and  a 
1  conquered 
The  baby 
never  show- 
it  the  aper- 
lic  intestines 
/cd  together 
nit  the  light 

'/  Chammi! 
uig  you  like 
\  to  raising  a 
;  is  not  likely 

of  his  crew, 
icen  obliged 
had  cut  liis 

[needle,  some 
piece  of  seal- 
These,  with 
led  to  repair 

front  of  the 
[orning :  evi- 
ler  to  a  small 
/ruk  is  situ- 
;mall  log  en- 
|wn  by  heavy 
called  m^rpa 
are  covered 
Idarker  spots 
le  young  are 


very  beautiful,  covered  with  long,  silky,  silvery  hair,  softer  than  in 
the  adult  and  without  the  dark  spots.  They  are  about  eighteen 
inches  long,  and  the  adults  not  more  than  four  feet.  The  flippers 
have  five  long  nails  and  are  covered  with  hair  like  that  on  the 
body.  The  eye  of  the  seal  is  black,  very  large  and  liquid, 
almost  human  in  its  expression,  and  Jie  whiskers -are  placed  like 
those  on  a  cat ;  the  bristles  are  perfectly  transparent,  three-sided 
aiul  twisted,  looking  like  glass  threads,  about  four  inches  long. 
I'hc  blood  of  these  seal  is  very  black,  and  so  is  the  flesh,  both 
having  a  slightly  disagreeable  odor  when  fresh.  They  are  caught 
in  rawhide  nets.  There  is  a  much  larger  seal  (like  Pliocnjubata) 
which  is  called  maklok  by  the  natives ;  the  name  has  been 
frequently  applied  to  both  species,  but  erroneously.  The  fat  or 
blubber  is  about  an  inch  and  a  half  thick,  very  white  and  firm. 
The  natives  cat  it,  as  well  as  the  meat,  and  trade  it  with  the 
Indians  of  the  interior.  The  oil  is  ned  for  burning,  and  the 
casine  is  lighted  by  means  of  four  saucer-shaped  dishes  full  of 
dry  moss  or  sphagnum  soaked  in  this  oil,  which  give  out  quite 
as  much  smoke  as  light. 

Returning,  our  attention  was  attracted  by  the  numerous 
graves.  These  are  well  worth  the  careful  attention  of  the  eth- 
nologist ;  many  of  them  are  very  old.  The  usual  fashion  is  to 
p'..  :  the  body,  doubled  up,  on  its  side,  in  a  box  of  plank  hewed 
out  of  spruce  logs  and  about  four  fee  mg  ;  this  is  elevated  sev- 
eral feet  above  the  ground  on  four  posts,  which  project  above  the 
cofTm  or  bo.x.  The  sides  are  often  painted  with  red  chalk,  in  fig- 
ures of  fur  animals,  birds,  and  fishes.  According  to  the  wealth 
of  the  dead  man,  a  number  of  articles  which  belonged  to  him  are 
attached  to  the  coffin  or  strewed  around  it.  Some  of  them  have 
kyaks,  bows  and  arrows,  hunting  implements,  snowshoes  or  even 
kettles,  around  the  grave  or  fastened  to  it ;  and  almost  invariably 
the  wooden  dish,  or  kantdg,  from  which  the  deceased  was  accus- 
tomed to  eat  is  hung  on  one  of  the  posts. 

There  are  many  more  graves  than  present  inhabitants  of  the 
village,  and  the  story  is  that  the  whole  coast  was  once  much  more 
densely  populated. 

On  arriving  at  the  casine  we  met  some  men  carrying  long  sticks 
of  light-wood,  and  were  requested  to  remove  our  bedding  and  other 
traps  from  the  building,  as  the  inhabitants  were  about  to  take  a 


il 


f 


I  ! 


20 


THE  YUKON   TERRITORY. 


bath.     This  we  did,  much  to  our  disgust,  and  adjourned  to  one  of 
the  houses  till  it  should  be  over,  as  a  cold  wind  was  blowing. 

These  baths  are  made  by  building  a  very  hot  fire  in  the  casine, 
the  :niddle  part  of  the  floor  being  removable,  so  that  the  earth 
may  be  exposed.  Here  the  fire  is  built,  and  when  it  has  sub- 
sided into  coals  the  gut  cover  before  mentioned  is  put  over  the 
smoke-hole,  and  the  inmates  proceed  to  bathe  themselves  in  an 
unmentionable  liquid,  which  is  carefully  saved  for  this  and  other 
purposes.  Strange  as  it  may  appear,  this  habit  was  not  con- 
tracted without  reason,  for  the  alkaline  properties  of  this  fluid 
combine  with  the  oil  with  which  they  are  smeared,  and  form  a 
soapy  lather,  which  cleanses  as  thoroughly  as  soap,  which  they 
cannot  obtain,  and  removes  the  dirt,  which  water  alone  would  not 
do.  After  this  they  wash  off  with  water  and  retire  to  certain 
shelves,  which  are  placed  near  the  roof  of  the  building,  and  repose, 
wrapped  in  a  deerskin,  until  the  lassitude  produced  by  the  bath 
passes  away. 

We  waited  as  long  as  possible  before  entering  the  casine,  but  as 
evening  came  on  we  were  obliged  to  return  to  it.  As  might  be 
supposed,  the  amnion iacal  odor  was  nearly  stifling,  and  only  the 
raw,  blustering  weather  prevented  us  from  sleeping  outside. 

TJiursday.,  \\t/i.  —  To  our  great  delight  the  sea  had  gone 
down  a  good  deal  and  the  wind  was  fair.  We  bundled  our 
things  into  the  boat,  and  although  short-handed  —  two  of  our 
men  having  remained  with  Westdahl  —  we  put  out  about  eight 
o'clock,  and  just  as  we  rounded  the  point  saw  the  other  boats, 
which  had  repaired  damages,  following.  The  character  of  the 
shore  is  abrupt  and  rocky  from  the  Redoubt  to  Kegiktowruk, 
thence  to  Golsova  River,  known  by  the  two  small  islets  or  rather 
rocks  in  the  vicinity,  and  finally  around  Tolstoi  Point  to  a 
place  called  Topanika.  There  are  very  few  points  at  which 
a  boat,  especially  a  skin  boat,  can  land  even  in  perfectly  smooth 
weather,  and  in  rough  weather  only  two  between  Tolstoi  Point 
and  the  Redoubt.  The  first  of  these  is  the  Major's  Cove,  so 
named  because  it  was  the  first  point  at  which  Major  Kennicott 
landed,  after  leaving  St.  Michael's  with  his  party.  The  other 
is  Kegikt6wruk.  We  passed  Tolstoi  Point  and  reached  To- 
pdnika  in  safety.  Here  there  is,  except  at  high  tide,  a  narrow, 
shelving  beach,  backed  by  perpendicular  walls  of  sandstone  in 


THE   YUKON   TERRITORY. 


21 


|do,  a  narrow, 
sandstone  in 


bluffs  from  twenty  to  one  hundred  feet  high.  This  beach  con- 
tinues all  the  way  to  the  mouth  of  the  Unalakli'k  River,  the  bluff 
growing  gradually  lower,  until  near  the  mouth  of  the  river  there 
is  only  a  marshy  plain  behind  the  beach.  As  the  wind  was  light 
we  sent  two  of  our  men  ashore  with  a  long  mahout  line  to  "track" 
the  boats  along  the  beach.  We  were  now  about  ten  English  miles 
from  Unalakli'k.  The  wind  blowing  fair  and  freshening,  we  took 
our  men  on  board  and  made  a  straight  course  for  the  mouth  of  the 
river.  Meanwhile  it  was  growing  dark.  I  had  been  snoozing 
under  a  deerskin  for  an  hour  or  two,  as  the  air  was  very  cold, 
but  finally  took  up  the  paddle  to  warm  myself,  when  Ketchum's 
experienced  ear  caught  the  crunch  of  ice,  and  in  a  minute  v/e  were 
into  it.  Large  cakes  about  four  inches  thick  covered  the  surface  of 
the  water,  and  we  all  had  our  hands  full  in  staving  them  off,  as 
they  would  have  sunk  the  boat  had  they  nipped  us.  We  were  not 
far  from  shore  ;  the  lights  at  the  trading-post  at  the  mouth  of 
the  river  were  plainly  visible.  We  fired  several  shots,  but  appar- 
ently without  rousing  any  one,  and  were  obliged  to  go  nearly  a 
mile  north  of  the  post  to  find  a  bit  of  beach  suffici>.ntly  clear  of 
ice  to  land  upon.  Having  succeeded  in  hauling  the  boat  above 
high-water  mark,  we  stumbled  amongst  the  driftwood  with  which 
the  beach  was  strewn,  up  to  the  fort  or  trading-post,  which 
was  closed,  every  one  being  asleep.  W^e  soon  roused  them,  how- 
ever, and  after  a  regale  of  tea  and  bread  I  appropriated  the  bed 
of  a  Russian,  and  sank  to  slumber,  surrounded  and  overrun  by 
not  less  than  thirty  thousand  adult  cockroaches  and  their  families. 

Friday,  12///.  —  Rose  with  the  determination  of  going  some- 
where where  there  were  no  iaralcdnoff,  as  the  Russians  call  the 
insects  with  which  their  apartment  was  i.ifested.  I  obtained  a 
tent,  pitched  it,  and  moved  most  of  my  traps  out  into  it.  Planted 
a  flag-pole  and  threw  the  ensign  of  the  Scientific  Corps  to  the 
breeze,  with  the  resolution  to  carry  the  blue  cross  and  scallop, 
before  the  year  was  out,  where  no  other  flag  had  yet  floated,  if 
that  were  possible. 

I  began  to  provide  myself  with  suitable  clothing,  such  as  the 
natives  wear.  First,''  artcgi,  or  />iirhj,  a'A  the  Russians  call  it. 
This  is  a  shirt  of  dressed  deerskin,  with  the  hair  on,  coming  down 
to  the  knees,  and  to  be  confined  by  a  belt  around  the  waist. 
There  is  no  opening  in  the  breast  or  back,  but  a  hood  large 


29 


THE  YUKON   TERRITORY. 


enough  to  cover  the  head,  which  may  be  pushed  back  when  not 
needed.  This  garment  is  trimmed  around  the  skirt,  wrists,  and 
hood  with  strips  of  white  deerskin  and  wolverine  or  wolfskin, 
both  of  which  are  highly  prized  for  the  purpose.  Around  the 
hood  the  wolfskin  is  broad  and  taken  from  the  back  of  the  animal, 
where  the  longest  hairs  are  barred  with  white  and  black,  which, 
when  the  hood  is  drawn  up,  makes  a  kind  of  halo  about  the  face 
which  is  not  unbecoming.  When  travelling,  these  long  hairs 
shield  the  face  from  a  side  wind  to  a  surprising  extent.  The 
parka  is  exceedingly  warm,  and  the  wind  does  not  penetrate  it ; 
while  in  exceedingly  cold  weather  a  light  one,  made  of  fawn-skin, 
or  ivipcrotky,  as  the  Russians  term  it,  may  be  worn  with  the  hair 
turned  in,  inside  of  the  usual  garment,  which  is  made  of  various 
skins,  according  to  the  fancy.  The  fall  skin  of  the  young  deer, 
known  as  naUircss,  is  the  most  common  and  perhaps  the  best. 
The  skins  of  Parry's  marmot  {Spennophiliis  PatTyi)  and  the  musk- 
rat  {Fiber  zibethicits)  are  praised  for  their  durability,  and  wipe- 
rotky  parkies  are  neat  and  light,  but  do  not  last  long.  On  the 
whole  the  needress  is  as  strong,  durable,  and  warm  as  any,  and 
almost  as  handsome  when  well  trimmed. 

The  next  most  important  articles  are  the  torbassd  or  Eskimo 
boots.  These  are  made  of  the  skin  of  the  reindeer's  legs,  where 
the  hair  is  short,  smooth,  and  stiff.  These  are  sewed  together  to 
make  the  tops  of  the  boots,  which  come  up  nearly  to  the  knee, 
where  they  are  tied.  The  sole  is  made  of  sealskin,  or  luvtak  pre- 
pared in  the  same  way  as  for  making  boats.  This  sole  is  turned 
over  at  heel  and  toe,  and  gathered  like  the  skirt  of  a  dress,  so  as  to 
protect  those  parts,  and  brought  up  on  each  side.  It  is  of  course 
nearly  waterproof  and  rather  durable,  but  can  be  easily  replaced  in 
half  an  hour  by  a  new  one  if  necessary.  It  is  wetted  before  being 
sewed,  which  makes  the  sealskin  flexible,  and  the  proper  formation 
of  the  toe  is  aided  by  the  teeth  of  the  seamstress.  In  wearing 
these  boots,  which  are  made  much  larger  than  the  foot,  a  pad  of 
dry  grass,  folded  to  the  shape  of  the  sole,  is  worn  under  the  foot. 
This  absorbs  any  moisture,  serves  as  a  non-conductor,  and  protects 
the  foot  from  the  inequalities  of  ice  or  the  soil.  The  whole  fur- 
nishes a  warm  and  comfortable  covering,  indispensable  to  winter 
travel.  There  are  a  pair  of  strings,  one  on  each  side,  which  are 
tied  about  the  ankle,  supporting  it  and  preventing  the  foot  from 
slipping  about  in  the  boot. 


THE  YUKON   TERRITORY. 


ack  when  not 
•t,  wrists,  and 

or  wolfskin, 

Around  the 
)f  the  animal, 
black,  which, 
Dout  the  face 
e  long  hairs 
extent.      The 

penetrate  it ; 

of  fawn-skin, 
ivith  the  hair 
de  of  various 
:  young  deer, 
aps  the  uest. 
,nd  the  musk- 
ty,  and  wipe- 
)ng.  On  the 
1  as  any,  and 

id  or  Eskimo 

s  legs,  where 

together  to 

to  the  knee, 

luvtak  pre- 

ole  is  turned 

ress,  so  as  to 

is  of  course 

replaced  in 

Dcfore  being 

)er  formation 

In  wearing 

)ot,  a  pad  of 

der  the  foot. 

and  protects 

le  whole  fur- 

le  to  winter 

e,  which  are 

■le  foot  from 


Deerskin  breeches  are  worn  by  the  natives,  but  are  rarely 
needed  by  white  men  when  provided  with  clothing  of  ordinary 
warmth  and  thickness. 

The  value  of  a  good  parka  is  at  present  about  six  dollars. 
Boots  and  other  articles  are  usually  obtained  by  barter.  Ten 
musket-balls  and  a  few  caps  are  the  regular  price  for  a  pair  of 
torbassa,  a  pair  of  deerskin  mittens  being  worth  from  four  to  six 
balls ;  ornamental  gloves  and  other  articles  are  more  or  less 
costly,  according  to  the  amount  of  work  and  the  scarcity  of  the 
article  at  the  time.  So  far,  the  natives  have  not  yet  learned  to 
m.ike  a  well-shaped  thumb  to  gloves  and  mittens,  a  triangular 
shapeless  protuberance  serving  their  needs,  but  they  may  be  easily 
taught  a  better  mode  of  manufacture. 

A  Ai.r-  ivr  bear  skin  in  the  raw,  dry  state  is  used  as  a  bed,  and 
a  M  tn'cr,!  ;  Jressed  deer  or  rabbit  skins,  in  addition  to  a  pair  of 
woolicii  '  nes,  completes  the  list  of  articles  needed  for  winter 
travel,  though  a  small  pillow  is  a  great  addition  to  one's  com- 
foit.  A  deerskin  is  worth,  at  the  regular  price,  about  sixty 
cents. 

For  a  number  of  days  nothing  occurred  of  special  interest. 
Captain  Ketchum  delayed  starting  across  the  portage  to  the 
Yukon  for  Nulato,  as  it  was  still  doubtful  whether  all  the  small 
rivers  were  securely  frozen  over.  I  found  my  nights  in  the  tent 
not  uncomfortable,  though  the  thermometer  ranged  from  twenty- 
eight  to  zero  of  Fahrenheit.  Waking  one  morning,  I  found  myself 
so  deeply  snowed  vp  that  I  had  a  good  deal  of  difficulty  in  get- 
ting out  of  the  ■ :  i»t  It  proved  to  be  only  a  drift,  however.  A 
tin  dippc;  of  'arr.  /,o?en  the  first  night  showed  no  signs  of 
melting. 

The  Russian  trad;  ^f-r ''St  at  this  point  is  much  smaller  than 
the  Redoubt.  It  is  in  rather  a  decayed  condition,  and  has  only 
two  glass  windows,  the  remainder  being  made  of  gut,  as  used  by 
the  natives.     Glass  i?  a  rare  article  here. 

The  stockade  is  built  after  the  same  plan  as  that  at  St. 
Michael's,  and  encloses  one  barrack  building,  with  a  room  for 
the  commander,  a  store,  cook-house,  bath-house,  and  a  shed  for 
storing  oil,  f'--..  ,  ii  is  defended  by  two  square  bastions  pierced 
for  cannon.  1./.  <?;uns  had  lately  been  removed,  and  the 
turrets  fitted  up  ijr  the  accommodation  of  our  officers.     They 


' 


m 


THE   YUKON   TERRITORY. 


were  of  the  most  antiquated  description,  and  likely  to  do  as 
much  damage  by  the  breech  as  by  the  muzzle. 

The  fort  is  situated  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Unalaklfk  River, 
where  it  empties  into  Norton  Sound.  It  is  said  to  have  been 
built  in  1840  and  1841. 

To  the  north  are  two  assemblages  of  houses  occupied  by  Innuit 
of  the  Kaviak,  Mahlemut,  and  Unaleet  tribes  during  part  of  the 
year,  the  latter  being  the  only  permanent  residents.  The  village 
was  formerly  situated  on  the  left  bank  of  the  river,  but,  an  epi- 
demic occurring,  they  removed  and  built  new  houses  on  the 
north  side.  The  remains  of  the  old  houses  and  the  graves  may 
be  distinctly  traced. 

The  steamer  Wilder,     /  le  assistance  of  several  hundred 

natives  and  our  own  party,  u  ,  the  direction  of  Captain  Smith, 
had  been  hauled  up  on  the  beach  beyond  the  reach  of  the  ice, 
and  might  be  considered  as  in  winter  quarters. 

The  Captain,  who  was  an  enthusiastic  and  successful  sportsman, 
gave  me  the  first  specimens  I  had  seen  of  the  beautiful  snow- 
white  arctic  grouse  {Lagopiis  albus),  which  may  be  started  in 
coveys  on  all  the  plains  around  the  mouth  of  the  river. 

The  beach  at  Unalaklik  is  shv;lving  and  sandy,  and  is  bounded 
by  a  ridge,  on  which  the  houses  are  built.  Back  of  this  ridge  the 
land  is  low,  and  overflowed  for  some  distance  when  the  freshets 
occur  in  the  spring  ;  beyond  this  low  strip,  which  is  parallel 
with  the  beach,  it  rises  slowly  and  evenly,  culminating  in  the 
ridges  of  the  Shaktolik  hills,  which  trend  in  a  northeast  and 
southwesterly  direction,  and  attain  a  height  of  about  a  thousand 
feet  above  the  sea.  Several  miles  north  of  the  river  they  come 
down  to  the  shore  in  high  bluffs  of  gray  sandstone.  The  coun- 
try to  the  south,  already  mentioned,  is  much  the  same,  though 
the  hills  are  farther  inland  and  attain  a  higher  elevation.  From 
the  beach  near  the  fort,  Besborough  Island  may  be  seen  standing 
sharply  and  precipitously  out  of  the  sea,  about  thirty  miles  north- 
northwest.  Egg  Island  and  Stuart's  Island,  to  the  southwest,  are 
so  low  that  it  is  only  on  a  very  clear  day,  with  a  faint  mirage 
to  elevate  them,  that  they  can  be  distinguished.  Covered  with 
snow  and  without  trees,  the  easy  slopes  and  gracefully  rounded 
hills  have  an  aspect  of  serene  beauty  ;  the  effect  on  a  calm  moon- 
light evening  is  delightful. 


THE   YUKON   TERRITORY. 


25 


Thursday,  October  2$th.  —  Captain  Ketchum  having  made  up 
his  mind  to  an  early  start  across  the  portage,  we  entered  on  the 
necessary  preparations  for  our  journey.  Appointing  Lieutenant 
F.  M.  Smith  Acting  Surgeon  for  the  Unalakh'k  party,  I  divided 
our  exceedingly  insufficient  supply  of  medicines  with  him.  The 
liberal  scale  on  which  everything  was  purchased  allowed  of  no  ex- 
cuse for  the  inefficiency  and  red  tape  which  left  fifty  men  for  a  year, 
in  a  country  where  nothing  of  the  kind  was  obtainable,  with  a  sup- 
ply of  medicines  which  could  be  packed  into  a  Manila  cigar-box. 

The  proposed  party  for  Nulato  was  composed  of  Captain 
Ketchum  in  charge  of  that  division,  Mr.  Frederick  Whymper 
the  artist  of  the  Expedition,  Mr.  Francis  the  engineer  of  the 
Wilder,  Lieutenanc  Michael  Lebarge,  a  constructor  who  may  be 
called  Scratchett,  and  myself.  Mr.  Dyer  the  quartermaster  pro- 
posed to  join  us  later  in  the  season.  It  will  doubtless  be  noticed 
that  this  comprised  some  six  officers  to  one  man,  but  it  must 
be  recollected  that  the  work  laid  out  for  the  coming  year  in  our 
division  comprehended  only  exploration,  and  that  we  relied  on 
the  Indians  in  the  vicinity  of  Nulato  for  such  manual  labor  as 
we  should  need.  The  following  season  we  expected  to  receive  a 
large  number  of  constructors,  who  should  proceed  to  build  the 
line  as  soon  as  the  route  was  determined. 

We  intended  to  travel  with  dogs  and  sleds,  the  universal  and 
only  practicable  mode  of  winter  transportation  in  this  country. 
The  sleds,  harness,  and  so  forth,  I  shall  take  another  opportunity 
of  describing  minutely,  and  will  only  state  at  present  that  the 
dogs  are  about  the  size  of  those  of  Newfoundland,  with  shorter 
legs,  and  of  all  colors,  from  white,  gray,  and  piebald  to  black. 
They  are  harnessed  to  the  sled  on  each  side  of  a  line,  to  which 
the  traces  are  attached,  —  two  and  two,  with  a  leader  in  front ; 
and  the  usual  number  is  either  five  or  seven,  according  to  the 
load.  They  will  draw  when  in  good  condition  about  one  hun- 
dred pounds  apiece  with  the  help  of  the  driver,  who  seldom  rides, 
unless  over  a  smooth  bit  of  ice  or  with  an  empty  sled.  The  sleds 
of  the  Eskimo  are  heavy,  and  shod  with  bone  sawed  from  the 
upper  edge  of  the  jaw  of  the  bowhead  whale.  These  bones  are 
obtained  in  the  vicinity  of  Bering  Strait,  and  good  ones  are  quite 
valuable.  The  remainder  of  the  sled  is  made  of  spruce  wood. 
They  will  carry  from  six  to  eight  hundred  pounds.     The  sleds 


96 


THE  YUKON  TERRITORY. 


, 


used  in  the  interior  are  much  lighter  and  differently  constructed. 
The  Eskimo  sleds  are  suitable  only  for  travelling  over  ice  and 
the  hard  snow  of  the  coast. 

Saturday,  2ph.  —  Having  loaded  four  sleds  and  finding  the 
number  of  dogs  insufficient,  we  sent  down  to  the  village  and  pro- 
cured an  additional  cupply,  seizing  any  stray  dog  whose  owners 
were  not  forthcoming,  and  pressing  him  into  the  service.  About 
eleven  o'clock,  just  as  we  were  ready  to  start,  an  old  woman,  howl- 
ing dismally,  cut  the  harness  of  one  of  these  conscripts  and  let  him 
go.  He  was,  however,  immediately  secured,  the  old  woman  paci- 
fied with  a  small  present  of  tobacco  ;  and  with  a  salute  of  one  gun 
from  the  fort  and  a  volley  of  revolver  shots  from  our  friends  we 
started  up  the  Unalaklik  River  on  the  ice.  We  got  along  very  well, 
with  the  usual  number  of  small  casualties,  such  as  the  loss  of  one 
or  two  of  the  vicious  dogs,  who  gnawed  their  harness  in  two,  and 
the  breaking  of  the  bones  with  which  some  of  the  sleds  were 
shod.  We  proceeded  until  darkness  and  an  open  spot  in  the 
river  arrested  our  progress,  and  we  camped  on  the  bank  for 
the  night.  The  atmosphere  being  about  ten  below  zero,  we 
all  relished  our  tea,  biscuit,  and  bacon,  and  the  ever-grateful  pipe 
which  followed  it,  before  retiring.  No  tents  are  used  in  the 
winter,  as  they  become  coated  with  ice  from  the  breath  of  the 
sleepers  and  are  also  liable  to  take  fire  ;  so,  pulling  our  blankets 
over  our  heads,  we  slept  very  jomfortably,  w'lih  nothing  above  us 
except  the  branches  of  the  spruce-trees  and  the  canopy  of  the  sky. 
The  trees  commence  as  soon  as  we  get  sufficiently  far  up  the  river 
to  be  out  of  the  way  of  the  coast  winds  and  salt  air,  and  are  prin- 
cipally willows,  birch,  poplar,  and  spruce. 

Sunday,  2W1. — Woke  to  the  disagreeable  discovery  that  four 
of  our  dogs  had  taken  advantage  of  the  darkness  to  gnaw  their 
sealskin  harnesses  and  decamp  to  Unalaklik.  Pushing  on,  literally, 
with  only  three  dogs,  and  five  hundred  pounds  on  the  sled,  I  found 
rather  hard  work  for  a  beginner.  At  last,  about  noon,  we  arrived 
at  the  first  Indian  village,  called  Iktfgalik,  where  we  unloaded  our 
sleds,  fed  our  dogs,  and  went  into  an  Indian  house  built  after  the 
Eskimo  fashion  and  very  clean  and  comfortable. 

Iktfgalik  is  a  fishing  village  with  a  larger  population  in  summer 
than  in  winter.  On  the  left  bank  of  the  river,  which  is  about  six 
hundred  feet  wide,  are  eight  or  ten  summer  houses,  built  on  the 


constructed. 
»ver  ice  and 

finding  the 
age  and  pro- 
hose  owners 
/ice.     About 
^oman,  howl- 
;  and  let  him 
woman  paci- 
:e  of  one  gun 
ir  friends  we 
)ng  very  well, 
le  loss  of  one 
s  in  two,  and 
e  sleds  were 
.  spot   in  the 
he  bank  for 
low  zero,  we 
-grateful  pipe 
used   in  the 
ireath   of  the 
our  blankets 
ing  above  us 
ly  of  the  sky. 
up  the  river 
land  are  prin- 

pry  that  four 
gnaw  their 
;  on,  literally, 
I  sled,  I  found 
1,  we  arrived 
Linloaded  our 
liilt  after  the 

in  summer 
is  about  six 
)uilt  on  the 


THE   YUKON   TERRITORY. 


27 


bank,  of  split  spruce  logs  driven  into  the  ground,  and  roofed 
with  birch  bark.  The  door  is  at  the  end  facing  the  river,  and  is 
an  oval  opening  some  three  feet  high.  The  houses  are  about 
twelve  feet  square  and  entirely  above  ground,  as  in  summer  the 
underground  houses  are  full  of  water.  Behind  these  houses  are 
the  caches,  called  kradowoi  by  the  Russians.  They  are  simply 
small  houses,  about  six  feet  square  and  high,  elevated  from  six  to 
ten  feet  above  the  ground  on  four  upright  posts.  They  arc  well 
roofed  and  are  used  only  as  storehouses  for  provisions,  dry  fish, 
and  furs,  and  are  thus  elevated  in  order  that  dampness  or  field- 
mice  may  not  g  in  access  to  them  ;  much  like  an  old-fashioned 
corn-crib.  Frames  are  also  erected  where  the  sleds,  boats,  and 
snow-shoes  may  be  put  out  of  the  way  of  the  dogs,  who  are  always 
on  the  alert  for  any  animal  substance,  and  will  eat  sealskin  and 
even  tanned  leather  with  avidity,  even  when  moderately  well 
fed. 

On  the  other  side  of  the  river  are  two  winter  houses  and  severnl 
caches.  One  of  these  houses  was  the  property  of  an  old  and 
rather  wealthy  Indian,  as  Indians  go,  who  had  been  christened 
Ami'lka  by  the  Russians.  Ami'lka  was  anxious  to  obtain  the  title 
of  Tyonc,  or  chief,  which  is  here  merely  a  title  and  conveys  no 
authority  except  what  age  and  wealth  may  bring  with  it.  He 
had  been  invested  with  the  title  by  the  explorers  during  the  pre- 
vious season,  and,  though  an  exceedingly  mean  old  fellow,  had 
been  of  some  assistance  to  them.  In  the  house  with  him  were  his 
wife,  a  very  fine-looking  Indian  woman  of  considerable  intelli- 
gence ;  and  a  young  fellow  called  Ingechuk  by  the  Russians,  who 
had  a  wife  about  four  feet  high,  of  whom  he  was  exceedingly 
fond  and  jealous.  The  other  occupants  were  an  intelligent  fellow 
known  as  Andrea,  and  his  wife,  an  old,  very  ugly,  but  digt;ified 
and  hospitable  woman.  On  our  entering,  she  ordered  some  one 
to  clear  a  place,  and  spreading  out  a  clean  grass  mat  motioned  to 
us  to  be  seated.  Without  relaxing  her  diligent  oversight  of  the 
children  around  her,  of  her  work,  or  of  a  kettle  that  was  boiling 
by  the  fire,  she  sent  out  to  the  cache  and  obtained  some  dried 
backfat  of  the  reindeer,  the  greatest  delicacy  in  this  part  of  the 
world  ;  cutting  it  into  pieces  of  uniform  size,  she  placed  it  on  a 
clean  wooden  dish  and  handed  it  to  us,  with  an  air  of  quiet  dig- 
nity quite  unaffected,  and  as  elegant  as  that  displayed  by  many  a 


r 


( 


I 


28 


THE   YUKON   TERRITORY. 


civilized  dame  when  doing  the  honors  of  a  palace.  No  return 
was  asked  or  expected,  but  a  present  of  a  few  leaves  of  tobacco 
was  received  with  thanks.  The  backfat,  when  toasted  over  the 
fire,  has  a  rich  nutty  flavor  and  is  extremely  good. 

The  other  house  was  occupied  by  a  dirty  old  rascal  called 
Matfay,  and  another,  equally  dirty  and  more  stupid,  called  M^esh- 
ka.  Matfay  bore  his  greedy  and  deceitful  disposition  plainly  im- 
pressed on  his  countenance,  and  evidently  felt  aggrieved  that  we 
had  not  honored  his  house  with  our  presence,  instead  of  sending 
our  Mahlemuts  there,  who  would  make  him  no  presents. 

Ketchum  had  actually  gone  into  his  place  at  first,  thinking,  as 
the  house  was  new,  that  it  would  be  the  cleaner  of  the  two  ;  but 
after  a  glance  at  it  had  beaten  a  hasty  retreat. 

These  Indians  belong  to  a  branch  of  the  family  of  Tfnneh,  or 
Chippevvayans,  similar  to  those  of  Mackenzie  River  ;  their  tribal 
name  is  Ingalik,  or,  in  their  own  language,  Kalyiih-khatdna,  or 
people  of  the  lowlands.  The  tribe  extends  from  the  edge  of 
the  wooded  district  near  the  sea  to  an'  across  the  Yukon  be- 
low Nuldto,  on  the  Yukon  and  its  affluents  to  the  head  of  the 
delta,  and  across  the  portage  to  the  Kuskoqui'm  River  and  its 
branches.  Many  of  the  adults  have  been  christened,  but  not 
Christianized,  by  the  missionaries  of  the  Greek  Church,  and  are 
usually  known  by  their  Russian  names.  They  retain  and  use 
among  themselv  ^,  however,  their  original  Indian  names. 

Monday,  2()th.  —  After  a  long  night's  rest,  woke  a  good  deal 
refreshed,  though  rather  stiff",, and  enjoyed  our  breakfast  thor- 
oughly. Francis  and  myself  took  a  walk  some  distance  up  the 
river,  finding  many  open  places  in  the  ice.  After  our  return  I 
made  a  few  sketches  of  the  houses  and  Indians,  and  obtained  a 
beginning  of  a  vocabulary  of  Ingalik  words.  These  Indians  all 
understand  a  little  Russian,  and  by  this  means  are  enabled  to 
communicate  with  the  whites.  No  one  in  the  territory  under- 
stands any  English.  The  Innuit,  especially  the  Mahlemut  dia- 
lect, is  so  easy  to  acquire  that  the  fur-traders  learn  it  in  prefer- 
ence to  attempting  the  difficult  task  of  teaching  them  Russian. 
Very  few  of  the  Innuit  understand  any  Russian,  while  almost  all 
the  Russians  understand  some  Eskimo.  On  the  other  hand, 
the  Indian  dialect  is  so  much  harder  to  learn  than  the  Russian, 
that  the  Indians  pick  up  Russian  with  facility,  while  none  of  the 


THE  YUKON   TERRITORY. 


29 


No  return 
I  of  tobacco 
ed  over  the 

ascal  called 
illed  M^esh- 
plainly  im- 
ved  that  we 
i  of  sending 
its. 

thinking,  as 
le  two  ;  but 

■  Ti'nnch,  or 
their  tribal 
■kJuitdna,  or 
:he  edge  of 
Yukon  be- 
head of  the 
ver  and  its 
ed,  but  not 
"ch,  and  are 
in  and  use 
es. 

good  deal 

ikfast  thor- 

nce  up  the 

ir  return  I 

obtained  a 

ndians  all 

enabled  to 

ory  under- 

emut  dia- 

in  prefer- 

n  Russian. 

almost  all 

her   hand, 

e  Russian, 

ne  of  the 


Russians,  except  an  old  interpreter  named  Tele'ezhik,  know  more 
than  a  few  words  of  the  Indian  dialects. 

In  the  afternoon  Ingechuk  brought  us  some  white  grouse  and 
some  fresh  reindeer  meat.  Of  the  latter  a  delicious  dish  was  con- 
cocted, which  I  will  describe  for  the  benefit  of  future  explorers. 
It  was  invented  by  the  members  of  Kennicott's  party  during  the 
first  year's  explorations.  The  frozen  reindeer  meat  was  cut  into 
small  cubes  about  half  an  incn  in  diameter.  An  equal  amount  of 
backfat  was  treated  in  the  .same  way.  Hardly  covered  with 
water,  this  was  simmered  in  a  stewpan  for  nearly  an  hour ;  water, 
pepper,  and  salt  being  added  as  needed.  When  nearly  done,  a 
little  more  water  was  added,  and  the  finely  broken  biscuit  from  the 
bottom  of  the  bread-bag  slowly  stirred  in,  until  the  whole  of  the 
gravy  was  absorbed.  This  done,  we  sat  down  to  enjoy  a  dish 
which  would  have  awakened  enthusiasm  at  the  table  of  Lucullus. 
It  was  known  among  the  initiated  as  "  telegraph  stew,"  and  the 
mere  mention  of  its  name  would  no  doubt  touch,  in  the  breast  of 
any  one  of  them,  a  chord  of  electric  sympathy. 

The  Russian  name  for  the  reindeer  is  alen^,  perhaps  derived 
from  the  French.  These  deer  are  migratory,  feeding  on  the  twigs 
of  the  willow  and  the  fine  white  moss,  or  rather  Hchen,  which  is  to 
be  found  on  every  hillside.  They  fnquent  the  hills  during  the 
summer,  and  are  driven  thence  only  by  the  mosquitoes  to  seek 
refuge  in  the  water.  In  the  fall  and  winter  they  prefer  the  more 
sheltered  valleys,  and  appear  on  the  plains  in  immense  herds  in 
the  spring. 

Tuesday,  30///.  —  Walked  down  the  river,  and,  looking  into  some 
deserted  Indian  huts,  obtained  some  exquisite  green  mosses  and 
lichens  which  were  flourishing  there  notwithstanding  the  cold 
weather. 

A  number  of  sleds  arrived  from  Unalaklik,  bringing  a  large 
amount  of  goods  and  provisions  for  transmission  to  Nulato. 

On  the  rolling  plain  between  the  summer  houses  and  the  bases 
of  the  Uliikuk  Hills  I  found  the  larch  {Larix  viicrocarpa  f )  grow- 
ing sparingly  to  the  height  of  twelve  feet,  and  abundance  of  alders. 
The  snow-covered  sides  of  these  symmetrical  hills  stood  out  with 
striking  beauty  against  the  dark  clouds  which  formed  the  back- 
ground of  a  rich  crimson  and  purple  sunset. 

Wednesday,  list. — Ketchum  decided  to  send  back  all  the  heavy 


30 


THE   YUKON   TERRITORY. 


II 


; 


hi   ^1 


Mahlcmut  sleds,  and  kept  nine  dogs  to  assist  us  in  taking  the 
goods  up  to  Nulato  on  the  light  Ingalik  sleds.  The  weather,  being 
above  the  freezing  point,  was  so  warm  as  to  render  the  prospect 
of  our  being  able  to  cross  the  Uliikuk  River  on  the  ice  rather 
dubious  ;  it  would  have  been  useless  to  start  until  we  could  cross 
it,  as  it  is  only  a  few  miles  from  Iktlgalik.  After  the  sleds  had 
started  for  Unalakli'k,  we  let  out  the  dogs  from  an  empty  summer 
lodge  where  they  had  been  confined  to  prevent  their  following 
their  comrades  down  the  river. 

At  this  period  of  our  explorations  arose  the  famous  controversy 
between  two  of  our  party,  in  regard  to  the  relative  merits  of  beans 
and  rice  as  articles  of  food.  However  insignificant  the  subject, 
such  was  the  earnestness  and  even  eloquence  developed  on  both 
sides,  such  was  the  array  of  facts  brought  forward  to  sustain  the 
several  arguments,  that  the  interest  of  every  one  was  awakened 
in  the  discussion.  This  lasted  late  into  the  night,  and  was  renewed 
immediately  the  following  morning.  I  am  sorry  to  be  obliged  to 
record,  however,  that,  as  in  many  other  discussions,  both  literary 
and  scientific,  no  definite  result  was  arrived  at,  although  each  was 
convinced  against  his  will  of  the  valuable  properties  of  the  escu- 
lent defended  by  his  opponent. 

Thursday,  November  1st. — The  weather  was  still  warm  and  snow 
falling  fast.  We  made  the  discovery  that  nine  or  ten  of  our  dogs 
had  apparently  decided  to  hold  a  town  meeting  in  UnalakKk,  and 
had  accordingly  left  for  that  place.  This  was  exceedingly  pro- 
voking, as  it  would  render  our  starting  impossible  in  the  event  of 
a  sudden  cold  snap.  I  therefore  proposed  to  Ketch um  to  go 
back  to  UnalakHk  and  get  the  dogs,  and  Francis  offered  to  do  the 
same  thing.  The  decision  was  postponed  till  the  next  day. 
Ketchum,  finding  dry  fish  likely  to  be  scarce,  called  on  the  Indians 
to  bring  out  what  they  had  to  spare,  and  purchased  it.  This  fish 
is  principally  salmon  and  some  small  white  fish,  and  is  dried  in 
the  sun  without  smoke  or  salt.  It  is  the  principal  staple  of  food, 
under  the  name  of  lU'a/t,  for  all  travellers,  both  men  and  dogs ; 
being  very  light  and  portable,  yet  full  of  oil  ;  of  not  the  most 
agreeable  flavor,  it  is  at  least  strong  if  not  strengthening.  Occa- 
sionally one  does  get  hold  of  a  clean,  well-dried  ukali,  that  tastes 
very  well  when  broiled  over  the  fire  ;  though  in  my  own  case  the 
use  of  it  invariably  produced  heartburn.     The  ration  for  a  dog  is 


THE  YUKON   TERRITORY. 


31 


taking  the 
ither,  being 
le  prospect 
ice  rather 
could  cross 
e  sleds  had 
)ty  summer 
r  following 

:ontroversy 
its  of  beans 
he  subject, 
ed  on  both 
sustain  the 
;  awakened 
'as  renewed 
obliged  to 
)th  literary 
;h  each  was 
if  the  escu- 

and  snow 

our  dogs 

akHk,  and 

ingly  pro- 

le  event  of 

um  to   go 

to  do  the 

next   day. 

le  Indians 

This  fish 

dried  in 

le  of  food, 

and  dogs ; 

the  most 

?,     Occa- 

hat  tastes 

n  case  the 

r  a  dog  is 


one  salmon  weighing  from  a  pound  and  a  half  to  two  pounds,  or 
as  many  smaller  fish  as  will  amount  to  the  same.  They  will  travel 
on  less,  ■_  '.It  the  best  policy  is  to  feed  your  dogs  well,  and  you  may 
then,  with  proper  attention,  be  sure  that  they  will  work  well  and 
rarely  run  away. 

At  this  time  Ketchum  made  an  arrangement  with  L6fka,  a 
newly  arrived  Indian,  and  Andrea,  to  accompany  him  in  a  pro- 
posed winter  trip  up  the  Yukon,  and  paid  them  partly  in  advance. 

Friday,  2d.  —  Francis  and  I  started  at  nine  o'clock  for  Unala- 
kli'k  to  bring  back  the  missing  dogs.  Found  the  walking  good  but 
wet,  and  we  occasionally  had  to  take  to  the  bank.  The  distance 
is  twenty-two  English  miles  in  a  direct  line,  but  at  least  thirty  by 
the  river,  which  is  exceedingly  tortuous.  We  arrived  at  the  post 
at  two  o'clock,  just  in  time  for  a  glorious  Russian  bath  and  a  hot 
cup  of  tea.  These  baths  are  an  institution  to  be  proud  of.  Every 
Russian  trading-post  in  the  territory  is  furnished  with  a  bath-house, 
and  once  .  week  all  the  inmates  avail  themselves  of  it.  As  they 
reckon  time  according  to  Old  Style  in  the  Russian  colonies,  their 
Sunday  falls  on  our  Saturday,  and  as  a  consequence  bath-day 
comes  on  Friday.  The  apparatus  is  very  simple.  A  rude  arch 
of  loose  stones,  of  the  hardest  obtainable  kind,  is  built,  and  more 
stones  piled  over  it,  so  that  a  fire  made  beneath  the  arch  can  pen- 
etrate between  them.  There  is  no  chimney,  but  a  trap-door  in 
the  roof  A  large  cask  full  of  water  heated  for  the  purpose,  and 
another  of  cold  water,  generally  with  ice  floating  in  it,  and  a  suc- 
cession of  benches  one  above  the  other,  complete  the  equipment. 
When  the  stones  are  thoroughly  heated  and  the  smoke  has  all 
passed  out,  all  coals  are  removed  and  the  trap-door  is  shut ;  any 
smoke  or  coals  remaining  will  make  the  eyes  smart  and  the  bath 
very  uncomfortable.  Each  one  leaves  his  clothing  in  an  outer 
room,  and  on  entering  wets  his  head  and  throws  hot  water  on 
the  heated  stones  until  as  much  steam  is  produced  as  he  can 
bear.  He  then  mounts  as  high  on  the  benches  as  he  finds  com- 
fortable, and  the  perspiration  issues  from  every  pore.  He  then 
takes  a  sort  of  broom  or  bunch  of  dried  mint  or  birch  twigs,  with 
the  leaves  still  on  them,  which  is  prepared  at  the  proper  season 
and  called  mdenik.  With  this  he  thrashes  himself  until  all  im- 
purities are  thoroughly  loosened  from  the  skin,  and  finishes  with 
a  wash  off  in  hot  water  and  soap.     Then  taking  a  kantag,  or 


1 


|t  THE  YUKON   TERRITORY. 

wooden  dish,  full  of  ice-cold  water,  he  dashes  it  over  himself  and 
rushes  out  into  the  dressing-room.  This  last  process  is  disagree- 
able to  the  uninitiated,  but  is  absolutely  necessary  to  prevent  tak- 
ing cold.  I  have  known  cases  of  acute  rheumatism  brought  on  by 
omitting  it.  The  dressing-room  is  spread  with  straw  and  always 
communicates  with  the  outer  air.  The  temperature  is  often  many 
degrets  below  zero  ;  but  such  is  the  activity  of  the  circulation,  that 
one  dresses  in  perfect  com.'ort  notwithstanding.  A  warm  dressing- 
room  would  be  insupportable. 

These  baths  cannot  be  recommended  for  those  with  a  tendency 
to  heart  disease  or  apoplexy,  but  to  persons  in  a  healthy  condition 
the  effect  is  delightful ;  rheumatic  patienta  are  frequently  cured  by 
their  means,  with  proper  precautions.  One  of  these  baths  will  re- 
move all  traces  of  extreme  exf^rtion  or  fatigue  as  if  by  magic,  and 
they  may  be  advantageously  followed  by  a  few  cups  of  hot  tea 
and  an  hour's  repose. 

After  our  bath  we  found  to  our  disgust  that  the  dogs  had  been 
sent  back,  thanks  to  the  energy  of  Mr.  Dyer,  and  must  have  passed 
us  on  the  way,  while  making  a  short  portage.  The  weather  be- 
coming disagreeable,  we  were  soon  reconciled  to  our  disappoint- 
ment, and  were  snugly  ensconced  in  one  of  the  bastions,  which 
had  been  hung  with  reindeer  skins  for  comfort  and  warmth  dur- 
ing the  severe  winter,  relating  our  experiences  over  the  ever- 
grateful  cup  of  tea,  while  the  sleet  was  driving  and  the  storm 
howled  outside. 

Saini'day,  2,d.  —  The  weather  continued  warm  and  disagreeable. 
The  ice  wa:-»  very  wet  and  bad,  and  we  concluded  not  to  return  to 
Iktfgalik  to-  lay.  The  village  beyond  Iktfgalik  is  called  Uliikuk, 
and  many  of  the  Russians  call  the  former  village  New  Ulukuk,  as 
it  was  built  since  the  latter,  by  Ulukuk  Indians,  the  point  being  a 
good  one  for  the  fisheries. 

The  mouth  of  the  UnalakHk  River  is  obstructed  by  a  bar,  over 
which  at  low  tide  there  is  only  a  few  feet  of  water,  except  in  a 
narrow  and  tortuous  channel,  which  is  continually  changing  as 
the  river  deposits  fresh  detritus.  Inside  of  this  bar  we  get  two 
or  three  fathoms  of  water  for  a  few  miles,  but  the  river  has  only  a 
few  feet  in  the  channel,  most  of  the  summer,  from  the  mouth  to 
Ulukuk.  The  tide-water  comes  up  a  mile  or  two,  and  from  this 
cause  it  is  difficult  at  times  to  procure  fresh  water  for  drinking 


himself  and 
i  is  disagree- 
prevcnt  tak- 
•ought  on  by 
■  and  always 
i  often  many 
uilation,  that 
irni  dressing- 

li  a  tendency 
:hy  condition 
itly  cured  by 
baths  will  re- 
y  magic,  and 
»s  of  hot  tea 

Dgs  had  been 
t  have  passed 
weather  be- 
r  disappoint- 
itions,  which 
warmth  dur- 
er  the  ever- 
d  the  storm 

iisagreeable. 
to  return  to 
led  Ulukuk, 
Uliikuk,  as 
oint  being  a 

a  bar,  over 
except  in  a 
:hanging  as 
we  get  two 
r  has  only  a 
mouth  to 
id  from  this 
or  drinking 


THE  YUKON   TERRITORY. 


n 


purposes,  as  the  well  water  is  disagreeably  brackish.  The  same 
trouble  is  found  at  St.  Michael's,  where  the  only  good  water  is 
obtained  from  springs  on  the  mainland,  near  the  shore  opposite 
the  island.  There  are  many  of  these  springs  near  the  shore  along 
the  coast,  ai  d  they  are  unfrozen  all  winter,  the  water  having 
a  temperature  of  28'  to  30°  Fahrenheit,  even  when  the  air  is 
several  degrees  below  zero.  Whether  this  is  due  to  any  latent 
volcanic  heat  cannot  yet  be  decided,  but  the  islands  of  Stuart  and 
St.  Michael,  as  well  as  the  coast  as  far  north  as  Tolstoi  Point,  are 
composed  of  basaltic  lava,  full  of  amygdaloidal  cavities  and  crys- 
tals of  olivine,  and,  in  many  places,  roughly  columnar  in  five-sided 
pillars. 

Sunday,  ^Ih.  —  In  the  morning  a  strong  northeast  wind  was 
blowing,  with  the  thermometer  about  16",  and  a  great  deal  of 
loose  snow  driving  about.  I  determined,  in  spite  of  the  remon- 
strances of  the  others,  to  delay  no  longer,  and,  putting  some  bis- 
cuit and  ukali  in  my  pocket,  I  started  alone,  about  eleven  o'clock, 
for  Iktfgalik.  The  wind  sweeping  over  the  broad  plains  near  thii 
mouth  of  the  river  v/as  so  violent,  and  the  sleet  v/as  so  blinding, 
tha  was  unable  to  face  it,  and  was  obliged  to  go  from  side  to 
si(  the  river  diagonally.     In  doing  this  I  was  misled  by  a 

brancn  of  the  river,  and  proceeded  several  miles  before  I  found 
out  my  mistake.  Retracing  my  steps,  I  took  the  right  direction, 
and  reached  the  wooded  part  of  the  river,  where  the  trees  made  a 
shelter  from  the  force  of  the  wind  and  driving  snow,  late  in  the 
afternoon.  I  found  the  ice  rather  soft  and  covered  in  many 
places  with  drifted  snow,  so  that  the  travelling  was  very  laborious. 
To  add  to  my  annoyances,  it  soon  became  very  dark,  and  I  had  to 
grope  my  way  over  ice-hummocks  and  through  snow-drifts  until 
nearly  worn  out  by  the  exertion.  Passing  round  a  bend  in  the 
river,  the  ice  gave  way  under  me,  and  I  had  only  time  to 
throw  myself  on  one  side,  where  it  proved  more  solid,  and  I  got 
off  with  a  wetting  up  to  my  knees.  Taking  off  my  boots  and 
socks,  I  wrung  out  the  water  and  put  them  on  again,  when  they 
froze  immediately.  Nothing  but  the  want  of  an  axe  prevented  my 
camping  then  and  there  ;  but  a  howling,  which  came  evidently 
from  no  great  distance,  reminded  me  that  it  might  not  prove 
healthy  to  sleep  without  a  fire.  I  trudged  along,  and,  to  my  great 
delight,  about  eight  o'clock,  the  moon  rose,  and  I  soon  saw  the 
3 


f 


ill 


lli'  ■"•!  ■ 


%: 


U 


Mi 


i 


34 


THE   YUKON   TERRITORY. 


high  caches  of  the  village  standing  out  against  the  sky,  I 
heard  no  dogs,  however,  and  on  reaching  the  entrance  of 
the  house  on  the  bank  I  found  it  closed  with  a  block  of  wood. 
Climbing  on  to  the  roof  and  looking  through  the  gut  cover,  I 
thought  I  saw  a  glimmer  as  of  live  coals  where  the  fire  had  been. 
My  shouts  finally  aroused  Ingechuk,  who  was  the  only  occupant. 
Ketchum  iiad  evidently  gone,  and  I  had  my  labor  for  my  pains  ! 
Between  the  small  stock  of  Russian  which  I  had  picked  up,  and 
the  little  Ingechuk  knew,  I  finally  managed  to  make  out  that 
they  had  left  that  day  and  gone  to  Uliikuk.  I  made  him  boil  the 
chynik.  and  changed  my  wet  clothes,  which  were  frozen  so  hard 
as  to  be  difficult  to  get  off;  and  then,  after  taking  my  tea,  retired 
with  a  feeling  that  I  had  earned  a  good  night's  sleep. 

Monday,  ^th.  —  Not  wishing  to  take  another  useless  tramp,  I 
prevailed  on  Ingechuk  to  take  a  note  to  Ketchum,  if  he  was  at 
Ulukuk  and  if  he  wished  me  to  join  him  ;  and  feeling  rather  stiff, 
I  remained  in  the  house,  writing  and  resting  most  of  the  day. 
About  the  middle  of  the  afternoon.  Francis  arrived.  He  had  met 
an  Indian  with  a  note  from  Ketchum,  on  the  river,  and  knew  Uiat 
he  was  gone,  but  had  kept  on  to  Ikti'galik.  Soon  after,  Inr^echuk 
returned  with  a  note  from  Ketchum,  who  was  on  the  point  of 
starting  for  Nulato,  and  advised  us  to  return  to  Unalaklik  and 
come  up  with  the  next  brigade  of  sleds. 

Tuesday,  6th.  —  Breakfasted  on  some  fine  salmon  trout  {koko- 
liviya  of  the  Indians,  and  kolsJiclio{\\\c  Russians)  which  Ketchum 
had  sent  down  to  us.  These  fish,  when  broiled  in  their  skins  on 
a  Stic'-  over  the  fire,  are  exceedingly  fine  eating,  but  if  fried  or 
cleaned  before  cooking  lose  much  of  their  flavor. 

Leaving  some  of  our  things  with  Ingechuk,  to  follow  us  the  next 
day,  we  started  for  Unalaklik  about  eleven,  and  reached  it  about 
five  o'clock  in  the  afternoon  ;  our  return  created  some  amuse- 
ment. The  ice  being  very  glniry  made  the  travelling  very  disa- 
greeable, and  we  were  well  satisfied  when  we  came  to  our  jour- 
ney's end. 

Adams,  one  of  the  original  party,  now  justly  known  as  the 
pioneers,  had  left  for  the  Redoubt  in  a  bidarra,  but  had  not  re- 
turned ;  some  fears  were  excited  that  he  might  not  be  able  to 
do  so  until  the  sea  ice  had  fully  formed.  Temperature  varied 
from  15"  to  20°. 


te  sky.  I 
itrance  of 
c  of  wood. 
It  cover,  I 

1  had  been, 
r  occupant, 
my  pains ! 
ed  up,  and 

2  out  that 
im  boil  the 
en  so  hard 
tea,  retired 

3s  tramp,  I 
"  he  was  at 
rather  stiff, 
3f  the  day. 
^e  had  met 
I  knew  'that 
r,  Inryechuk 
e  point  of 
ilakh'k  and 

rout  {koko- 
1  Ketch  urn 
lir  skins  on 
if  fried  or 

Ins  the  next 
it  about 
lie  amuse- 
very  disa- 
our  jour- 

n\  as  the 
ul  not  re- 
)e  able  to 
Lire  varied 


THE  YUKON  TERRITORY. 


35 


For  several  days  we  remained  in  statu  quo.  Our  time  was 
taken  up  in  increasing  our  knowledge  of  Russian  and  the 
Mdhlemut  dialect,  in  preparations  for  another  attempt  to  cross 
the  portage,  and  in  reading  a  variety  of  matter  provided  by  the 
kindness  of  some  of  the  officers  who  did  not  remain  in  the  coun- 
try. Several  evenings  were  pleasantly  diversified  by  an  amateur 
theatrical  performance,  aided  by  several  violins.  Many  capital 
personal  hits  were  made,  which,  being  taken  in  good  j)art  by  the 
victims,  were  productive  of  a  great  deal  of  merriment. 

Monday,  \2th.  —  Started  for  Iktfgalik  about  ten  o'clock,  with 
two  Mahlemuts,  Shuri'igeluk  and  Ichiluk  by  name,  commonly 
known  as  Shuggy  and  New-Years,  the  latter  having  been  hired 
the  previous  year  by  Mr.  Kcnnicott  on  New- Year's  day.  We  had 
two  heavily  loaded  sleds  of  Mahlemut  make,  drawn  by  five  and 
four  dogs  respectively,  dogs  being  scarce.  The  party  consisted, 
besides  the  two  Eskimo  above  referred  to,  of  Messrs.  Dyer  and 
Francis,  and  myself,  —  Mr.  Francis  and  I,  not  wishing  to  be  idle, 
hav'ing  volunteered  to  assist  in  transporting  the  Nulato  goods  to 
Uh'ikuk.  By  making  several  short  portages,  tlic  distance  was 
materially  reduced,  and  we  arrived  in  good  condition  at  Iktigalik 
about  two  o'clock  in  the  afternoon. 

Tuesday,  \yh.  —  After  breakfast,  loaded  up  one  Mahlemut  and 
one  light  Ingalik  sled  and  started  at  half  past  ten  for  Uliikuk, 
which  is  about  eleven  miles  from  Iktigalik  by  several  portages 
and  the  river.  About  half-way  on  a  bend  of  the  river  were  two 
roofless  deserted  houses,  once  a  summer  fishing  village,  called  by 
the  Indians  N'tso/i.  Unromantic  as  it  may  appear,  the  sight  of 
these  poor  ruins,  indicating  probably  a  death  in  the  midst  of  the 
primeval  woods,  could  hardly  fail  to  produce  a  touch  of  emotion 
ill  any  mind  less  occupied  than  that  of  the  hardy  and  careless 
voyageur.  They  formed  a  rude,  half-effaced,  but  cfteclive  monu- 
ment of  human  sorrow,  in  a  country  where  humanity  seems 
hardly  to  have  taken  root,  existing  as  it  does,  only  by  a  constant 
struggle  for  the  necessities  of  life. 

Pursuing  our  way  up  steep  banks  and  down  sharp  declivities 
requiring  the  greatest  care  in  the  management  of  dogs  and  sleds, 
over  the  ice-bound  river  and  the  rolling  plains,  dotted  with  clumps 
of  larch  and  willow,  we  finally  struck  the  river  at  a  sliarp  bend, 
just  below  the  point  where  the  village  of  Uliikuk  is  situated. 


36 


THE  YUKON  TERRITORY. 


IJ'     ;i 


I    » 


Here  a  large  number  of  springs  exist,  some  of  them  below  the 
bed  of  the  river,  whose  waters  are  never  frozen,  an  open  patch 
being  found  here  during  the  most  severe  winters.  The  water  in 
these  springs,  measured  by  a  standard  thermometer  of  Greene's 
make,  was  not  very  warm,  but  retained  a  temperature  of  thirty- 
two  to  thirty-four  degrees  Fahrenheit  during  extremely  cold 
weather.  I  counted  seven  springs  in  the  gravel  beach  near  the 
village,  all  without  any  ice  about  them ;  most  of  them  continue 
open  during  the  entire  year,  but  are  covered  by  the  river  during 
the  spring  freshets. 

The  village  contains  five  winter  houses,  a  small  casine,  and  a 
row  of  high  caches.  It  is  situated  on  the  right  bank  of  the  river, 
which  is  here  about  two  hundred  feet  wide  ;  about  four  miles  to 
the  eastward  the  Uliikuk  Hills  rise  to  a  height  of  about  two  thou- 
sand feet.  At  this  time  they  were  snow  covered  of  course,  but 
they  are  free  from  snow  during  the  summer. 

The  open  water  in  the  river  makes  it  somewhat  difficult  to  ap- 
proach the  village  with  sleds  from  below,  the  banks,  though  low, 
being  steep  and  covered  with  small  trees.  Snow  or  ice,  placed 
upon  the  smooth  pebbles  from  beneath  which  the  springs  were 
flowing,  soon  melted,  though  the  weather  was  at  zero.  With  the 
atmosphere  at  eight  below  zero,  the  temperature  of  one  spring, 
which  gave  out  beautifully  clear  water  with  a  .slight  saline  taste 
like  bicarbonate  of  soda,  was  thirty-two  degrees  ;  another,  quite 
tasteless,  was  thirty-four  degrees  Fahrenheit. 

The  water  in  the  river,  at  the  edge  of  the  ice,  which  was  about 
eighteen  inches  thick,  had  a  temperature  of  thirty-one  degrees.  A 
remarkable  abundance  of  fish  frequents  the  vicinity  of  this  patch  of 
open  water,  especially  the  delicious  salmon  trout  for  which  Uliikuk 
is  noted,  and  a  small  cyprinoid  fish  not  elsewhere  observed. 

Ami'lka  has  a  house  in  this  village  also,  and  into  it  we  took  our 
baggage  and  rested  ;  an  old  Indian  called  Sammak  roasted  some 
trout  for  our  evening  meal,  while  with  some  fresh  alen^  meat  and 
backfat  Dyer  concocted  one  of  those  appetizing  telegraph  stews 
previously  mentioned. 

Wednesday,  i^t/t.  —  Francis  and  our  two  Eskimo  started  off 
with  three  sleds  to  bring  loads  from  Ikti'galik.  Several  sick  Ind- 
ians came  to  me  for  treatment,  their  own  medical  knowledge  be- 
ing confined  to  steam-baths  and  to  counter-irritants  in  the  form  of 


n  below  the 

open  patch 

'he  water  in 

of  Greene's 

re  of  thirty- 

remely   cold 

ich  near  the 

em  continue 

river  during 

;asine,  and  a 
of  the  river, 
four  miles  to 
Dut  two  thou- 
)f  course,  but 

lifficult  to  ap- 
1,  though  low, 
3r  ice,  placed 

springs  were 
•o.  With  the 
if  one  spring, 
It  saline  taste 

nother,  quite 

[ch  was  about 
degrees.    A 

this  patch  of 

rhich  Uliikuk 

lerved. 
we  took  our 

"oasted  some 
1x6  meat  and 

:graph  stews 

started  off 
Iral  sick  Ind- 
liowledge  be- 

the  form  of 


THE  YUKON   TERRITORY. 


37 


bleeding  by  means  of  a  large  number  of  small  cuts  and  the  actual 
cautery.  They  have  no  knowledge  of  the  uses  of  the  indigenous 
herbs  of  the  country  or  of  any  medicines. 

I  purchased  a  fine  pair  of  snow-shoes  about  five  feet  long  for  a 
rheath-knife,  and  Dyer  obtained  a  large  number  of  the  river  trout 
f.om  the  Indians.  I  cannot  understand  why  Kane  and  other 
Arctic  travellers  could  not  preserve  fresh  provisions  in  a  frozen 
state,  for  winter  use.  In  this  country  immense  quantities  of  meat 
and  fish  are  so  preserved  without  taint  all  the  year  round.  Exca- 
vations are  made  in  the  earth  to  the  depth  of  two  or  three 
feet,  where  it  is  usually  frozen,  and  the  contents  are  thus  pro- 
tected from  the  rays  of  the  sun. 

Towards  evening  Francis  and  the  sleds  returned  with  heavy 
loads  of  goods  from  the  other  village. 

Thursday,  \^th. —  It  being  my  turn  to  take  charge  of  the  bri- 
gade, I  started  with  the  dogs  and  men  about  half  past  ten,  with 
empty  sleds.  Reached  Ikti'galik  about  two  o'clock,  and  by  means 
of  a  little  diplomacy  induced  Ingechuk  and  Ami'lka  to  lend  me 
their  dogs,  and  also  got  hold  of  another  sled. 

Friday,  i6t/i.  —  Rose  early,  and  after  chy  peet,  as  the  Russians 
call  a  meal  of  bread  and  tea,  harnessed  up  the  dogs,  and,  taking 
all  the  remaining  goods,  except  some  dog  feed,  started  about  half 
past  eight  and  arrived  at  Uliikuk  about  noon.  Cached  the  goods 
and  repaired  sleds  and  harness. 

News  arrived  from  Ketchum  in  the  afternoon,  by  an  Indian  who 
brought  a  sled  and  a  worn-out  dog  from  a  point  called  Vesolia 
Sopka,  or  Cheerful  Mountain.  He  said  that  Ketchum  had  passed 
that  point  with  three  sleds  en  route  for  Nulato,  but  that  the  roads 
were  very  bad,  the  snow  being  deep  and  soft.  One  of  our  party 
had  been  trading  with  Lofka,  who,  having  an  ear  for  music,  bought 
an  accordeon,  giving  in  exchange  two  dogs,  c  ic  of  which  was  sup- 
posed to  be  running  wild  in  the  woods.  Lofka  knew  nothing  of 
the  use  of  the  instrument,  and  it  was  a  moot  question  which  had 
the  best  of  the  bargain.  The  instrument  having  been  used  to 
play  "Tramp,  tramp,  the  boys  are  marching"  for  some  four 
months,  about  twenty-four  times  a  tlay,  was,  to  say  the  least,  not 
in  a  condition  to  be  much  injured  by  Indian  fingering. 

After  waiting  a  day  for  the  return  of  tne  Nulato  brigade  which 
was  due,  Dyer  returned  to  Unalakli'k,  leaving  Francis  and  myself 


I 


*    1 : 


t 


I 


111 

nil  iii  r 


'3jf  THE  YUKON   TERRITORY. 

with  nothing  to  do  but  eat,  drink,  and  sleep,  which  was  extreme- 
ly tedious,  as  the  days  were  very  short.  We  finally  determined,  if 
the  brigade  did  not  arrive  the  next  day,  we  would  get  a  few  dogs 
together  and  carry  a  load  to  Vesolia  Sopka.  If  it  were  a  small  one 
it  would  be  of  assistance,  and  anything  would  be  better  than  con- 
tinued idleness.  A  large  number  of  Indians  arrived  from  dif- 
ferent quarters,  and  I  improved  the  opportunity  to  enlarge  my 
Ingalik  vocabularies.  One  of  them  went  out,  and  returned  with 
three  brace  of  beautiful  ruffed  grouse  (Bojiasa  timbcllus)  I  also 
purchased  some  small  fish,  which  were  devoted  to  the  interests  of 
science. 

Wednesday,  2ist.  —  Heard  a  howling  early  in  the  morning 
and  an  outcry  among  the  Indians,  and  jumped  into  my  clothes 
just  in  time  to  catch  a  sight  of  Mike's  pleasant  face  coming 
up  the  bank,  with  two  Russians,  six  sleds,  and  nearly  forty 
dogs  behind  him.  A  rapid  interchange  of  news  ensued,  while 
unharnessing  the  dogs  and  putting  the  sleJs  up  on  the  stages 
provided  for  the  purpose.  Mike  was  delighted  to  find  that  the 
work  of  carrying  the  goods  from  Unalakli'k  to  Ulukuk  had  been 
taken  off  his  hands.  The  Russians  were  to  go  on  to  Unalaklfk, 
and  we  should  immediately  proceed  to  Nuldto.  Ketchum  sent 
word  to  me  to  come  up  immediately,  as  my  services  were  likely 
to  be  needed  ;  but  unfortunately  he  was  obliged  to  ask  Francis  to 
wait  for  the  next  brigade,  as  the  supply  of  provisions  at  Nulato 
was  exceedingly  small.  Nulato,  as  the  natives  say,  is  emphati- 
cally a  "  hungry  "  place.  We  all  regreUcd  the  provoking  neces- 
sity which  deprived  us  for  a  time  of  the  society  of  our  lively  and 
energetic  companion.  He  therefore  made  arrangements  for 
returning  a  third  time  to  Unalakli'k  with  the  Russians. 

Thursday,  22d.  —  Rising  early,  the  sleds  were  soon  in  readi- 
ness, and,  buying  a  lot  of  fresh  trout,  foi  our  own  use  and  to  send 
by  the  Russians  to  Unalaklfk,  we  started  about  noon  for  Vesolia 
Sopka  ;  our  party  consisting  of  six  Indians,  one  man  to  each 
sled,  besides  Mike  and  myself  The  road  was  excellent,  and  we 
did  not  require  snow-shoes ;  the  dogs  were  in  good  condition,  and 
we  progressed  very  well. 

After  leaving  Ulukuk,  crossing  the  river  and  a  belt  of  spruce 
timber  of  small  size  and  about  a  mile  in  breadth,  we  came  to 
open  rolling  land,  between  the  river  and  the  base  of  the  hills. 


THE  YUKON  TERRITORY, 


39 


as  extreme- 
terrnined,  if 
t  a  few  dogs 
;  a  small  one 
er  than  con- 
;d  from  dif- 
enlarge  my 
^turned  with 
lus)  I  also 
interests  of 

he  morning 

I  my  clothes 

face  coming 

nearly  forty 

nsued,  while 

1  the  stages 

ind  that  the 

ik  had  been 

;o  UnalakKk, 

[etchum  sent 

were  likely 

c  Francis  to 

ns  at  Nulato 

is  emphati- 

dng  neces- 

r  lively  and 

;cments    for 

DU  in  readi- 
and  to  send 
for  Vesolia 
an  to  each 
ent,  and  we 
ndition,  and 

t  of  spruce 
kve  came  to 
Df  the  hills. 


This  country  is  almost  level,  with  hillocks  here  and  there,  and 
occasional  clumps  of  low  willows.  This  prairie-like  plain  is  called 
a ///«fl?!ra!  by  the  Russians.  .       , 

From  Ulukuk  to  the  river  at  the  Ves61ia  Sopka  is  about  four- 
teen miles,*  the  greater  part  of  which  is  over  the  tundra,  which  is 
occasionally  intersected  by  small  streams  falling  into  the  Ulukuk 
branch  of  the  Unalakli'k  River,  and  forming  deep  gullies,  which, 
until  filled  with  snow,  are  difficult  to  pass  with  loaded  sleds.  The 
dogs  have  sometimes  to  be  unhitched  and  the  sled  carefully  eased 
over  the  ravine  and  lifted  up  the  opposite  bank,  —  a  work  fre- 
quently of  no  small  labor. 

The  Vesolia  S6pka  forms  the  termination  of  the  range  of  the 
Ulukuk  Hills,  but  is  somewhat  lower  and  detached  from  the  rest. 
It  attains  a  height  of  about  eight  hundred  feet  above  the  sur- 
rounding plain,  and  has  an  even  and  beautifully  rounded  summit. 
At  its  base,  hidden  by  large  and  very  tall  spruce  and  poplar,  runs 
the  Ulukuk  River.  We  crossed  the  stream,  which  is  about  two 
hundred  feet  wide,  and  soon  reached  a  spot  where  the  Russians 
are  accustomed  to  camp,  on  the  opposite  bank,  from  which  the 
Sopka  (Russian  for  cone  or  peak,  particularly  a  volcanic  one) 
probably  derived  its  name  of  Vesolia  (cheerful).  Near  this  point 
a  small  stream,  known  to  the  inhabitants  as  Poplar  Creek,  en- 
ters the  river.  This  is  an  excellent  locality  for  trapping,  as  the 
numerous  fox  and  marten  tracks  testified.  We  boiled  the  chynik 
and  partook  of  a  cheerful  meal  of  bacon  and  biscuit,  and  then 
pushed  on  by  moonlight,  over  wooded  hills,  to  an  Indian  summer 
lodge,  or  barrdbora,  built  of  spruce  poles  and  birch  bark.  Here 
we  camped,  and  passed  a  rather  uncomfortable  night,  as  the  frail 
walls  retained  the  smoke  and  admitted  the  cold  wind.  This  point 
is  about  eight  miles  from  the  Sopka. 

Friday,  23^.  —  Rose  early,  and  after  reloading  the  sleds  and 
discussing  chy,  with  accompaniments  of  bacon,  biscuit,  ukali,  and 
molasses,  we  passed  on  over  hillsides  sparsely  wooded  with  spruce 
and  alder,  through  valleys,  and  up  and  down  some  rather  bad 
hills,  occasionally  along  the  river  on  the  ice.  About  dark  we 
came  upon  some  open  tundra,  just  beyond  a  low  marsh,  known  as 
Reaver  Lake,  as  it  is  covered  with  water  in  the  spring  ;  here  a 
strong  north  wind  was  blowing  full  in  our  teeth,  carrying  the 

•  Unless  otherwise  stated,  English  statute  miles  arc  meant. 


:    ''' 

W 

a 


'IM 


(   ';! 


40 


THE  YUKON  TERRITORY. 


snow  along  the  ground  in  blinding  sleet.  The  atmosphere  was 
six  below  zero.  The  other  sleds  were  some  distance  behind,  but 
as  our  sled  carried  the  teakettle  and  axes,  we  felt  pretty  sure  the 
Indians  would  follow,  though  much  against  their  will.  We  strug- 
gled on  until  we  arrived  at  an  old  camp  of  Ketchum's,  where  one 
tree  mocked  us  with  its  inefficient  attempt  at  shelter.  We  de- 
cided to  camp  here,  no  more  suitable  locality  being  within  reach. 
By  placing  the  sleds  to  windward,  with  a  piece  of  cotton  drill 
stretched  around  them,  we  managed  to  keep  off  the  driving  snow 
a  little.  The  hot  tea  in  our  tin  cups  burned  the  hand  on  one 
side,  while  the  keen  wind  gnawed  it  on  the  other.  Smoking  was 
out  of  the  question,  and  we  lay  down,  using  the  bacon  as  pil- 
lows, and  watched  the  dogs,  who,  growling  their  disapprobation, 
sheltered  their  noses  with  their  tails,  and,  more  fortunate  than 
ourselves,  soon  sank  into  unconscious  slumber. 

Saturday,  24///. — About  four  o'clock  in  the  morning  an  old 
Indian  called  Ivdn,  from  Nulato,  came  along  with  his  son.  They 
pulled  their  own  sled,  and  had  a  few  marten  skins  with  which  they 
were  going  to  Unalakli'k  to  buy  oil  for  winter  use.  Shortly  after, 
we  broke  camp  and  proceeded.  About  nine  o'clock  the  sun  rose, 
attended  by  three  beautiful  mock  suns,  or  parhelia.  One  was 
nearly  thirty  degrees  above  the  real  sun,  and  there  was  one  on 
each  side,  similar,  but  more  brilliant.  All  were  connected  by  an 
arch  resembling  a  rainbow,  except  that  it  was  of  aa  orange  color 
with  a  dark  reddish  band  on  the  inner  side,  and  threw  out  rays 
of  light  from  the  outer  edge.  About  a  quarter  of  another  similar 
arch  was  reversed,  touching  the  lower  arch  at  the  point  where  the 
upper  mock  sun  was  seen,  and  a  cross  of  brilliant  light  was  noticed 
at  each  junction  of  the  arch  with  the  mock  suns.  This  beautiful 
exhibition  continued  for  six  hours,  from  sunrise  to  sunset,  and 
Mike  tells  me  they  are  not  uncommon  here  in  winter. 

Shot  a  Canada  jay,  or  whiskey  jack  {Pcrisorcns  canadensis),  with 
a  dark  brown  "woolly  bear"  caterpillar  in  his  mouth,  just  killed. 
Where  it  had  come  from  was  a  mystery  I  do  not  pretend  to  solve, 
probably  from  beneath  the  snow. 

We  decided  to  camp  early,  as  we  were  all  very  tired,  and  after 
descending  a  deep  declivity  called  by  the  Russians  Perivdlli,  we 
stopped  on  the  bank  of  a  small  stream,  maae  a  good  camp,  en- 
joyed our  supper,  tea,  and  pipes,  and  slept  soundly. 


THE   YUKON  TERRITORY. 


^ 


Dsphere  was 

behind,  but 

tty  sure  the 

We  strug- 

3,  where  one 

er.     We  de- 

'ithin  reach. 

cotton  drill 

Iriving  snow 

land  on  one 

»moking  was 

aeon  as  pil- 

approbation, 

•tunate  than 


ling 


an  old 
i  son.  They 
h  which  they 
shortly  after, 
the  sun  rose, 
I.     One  was 

was  one  on 
lected  by  an 
orange  color 
rew  out  rays 
other  similar 
nt  where  the 

was  noticed 
his  beautiful 

sunset,  and 

dens  is),  with 
just  killed. 
:nd  to  solve, 

d,  and  after 
^erivdlli,  we 
camp,  en- 


Sunday,  26th. — Off  at  six.  Passed  over  the  flanks  of  some  high 
hills,  from  one  of  which  I  caught  my  first  glimpse  of  the  great 
river  Yukon,  broad,  smooth,  and  ice-bound.  A  natural  impatience 
urged  me  forward,  and  after  a  smart  tramp  of  several  miles  we 
arrived  at  the  steep  bank  of  the  river.  It  was  with  a  feeling  akin 
to  that  which  urged  Balboa  forward  into  the  very  waves  of  a 
newly  discovered  ocean,  that  I  rushed  by  the  dogs  and  down  the 
steep  dec.ivity,  forgetting  everything  else  in  the  desire  to  be  first 
on  the  ice,  and  to  enjoy  the  magnificent  prospect  before  me. 

There  lay  a  stretch  of  forty  miles  of  this  great,  broad,  snow- 
covered  river,  with  broken  fragments  of  ice-cakes  glowing  in  the 
ruddy  light  of  the  setting  sun ;  the  low  opposite  shore,  three  miles 
away,  seemed  a  mere  black  streak  on  the  horizon.  A  few  islands 
covered  with  dark  evergreens  were  in  sight  above.  Below,  a  faint 
purple  tinged  the  snowy  crests  of  far-off  mountains,  whose  height, 
though  not  extreme,  seemed  greater  from  the  low  banks  near  me 
and  the  clear  sky  beyond.  This  was  the  river  I  had  read  and 
dreamed  of,  which  had  seemed  as  if  shrouded  in  mystery,  in  spite 
of  the  tales  of  those  who  had  seen  it.  On  its  banks  live  thousands 
who  know  neither  its  outlet  nor  its  soarce,  who  look  to  it  for  food 
and  even  for  clothing,  and,  recognizing  its  magnificence,  call  them- 
selves proudly  men  of  the  Yukon. 

Stolid  indeed  must  he  be,  who  surveys  the  broad  expanse  of  the 
Missouri  of  the  North  for  the  first  time  without  emotion.  A  little 
Innuit  lad,  who  ran  before  the  dogs  and  saw  it  for  the  first 
time,  shouted  at  the  sight,  saying,  amidst  his  expressions  of 
astonishment,  "  It  is  not  a  river,  it  is  a  sea !  "  and  even  the  Indioas 
had  no  word  of  ridicule  for  him,  often  as  they  had  seen  it. 

A  half-mile  above  the  point  where  we  struck  the  river  bank 
is  a  cluster  of  winter  houses  and  caches,  which  goes  by  the 
name  of  Kaltag.  Thither  we  turned  our  steps,  a  piercing 
northwester  sweeping  down  the  river  being  an  effectual  argument 
against  further  progress.  We  entered  one  of  the  houses,  a  large, 
clean,  and  well-constructed  building,  where  we  found  a  very  old 
man  known  as  Kaltag  Staredk  by  the  Russians  {sfa/n'k  meaning 
old  man),  and  his  wife,  with  another  woman,  busily  at  jrk  on 
some  winter  clothing.  They  made  room  for  us,  spread  some  clean 
mats,  and  Mike,  who  was  a  general  favorite,  especic.lly  an.ong  the 
indigenous  female  population,  by  a  present  of  a  pair  of  scis.'-'jrs 


'I 


V 


'  t 


42 


THE  YUKON   TERRITORY. 


induced  the  old  woman  to  give  us  three  or  four  ptarmigan,  with  a 
promise  of  six  more  on  his  next  visit.  He  then  proceeded  with 
the  aid  of  some  rice  to  concoct  a  stew  which  did  great  credit  to 
his  culinary  abilities. 

We  went  out  together  to  feed  the  dogs,  and  returning  unex- 
pectedly, I  found  one  of  the  Indians  investigating  with  his  fingers 
the  recesses  of  a  spare  chynik  which  contained  our  molasses. 
Such  incidents  are  not  uncommon,  when  travelling  with  the  na- 
tives. 

After  discussing  our  supper  and  congratulating  ourselves  on 
the  accomplishment  of  the  portage  without  storm  or  accident,  we 
turned  in  early,  to  enjoy  a  good  night's  rest  and  thereby  prepare 
for  an  early  start  the  next  day. 

Monday,  26th.  —  Pushed  off  quite  early,  travelling  on  the  middle 
of  the  river,  finding  the  ice,  which  seemed  so  even  and  smooth 
from  the  bank,  to  be  broken,  strewed  with  numerous  cakes, 
and  diversified  by  hummocks,  over  which  about  eighteen  inches 
of  snow  had  already  collected.  Here  and  there  were  patches 
of  smooth  ice,  evidently  of  recent  formation,  and  once  or  twice 
a  light  cloud  over  an  opening  indicated  that  the  surface  was 
not  entirely  frozen.  Numerous  long  islands,  covered  with 
spruce,  poplar,  and  willow,  obstructed  the  view  of  the  opposite 
shore,  which  is  quite  low,  while  here  and  there  we  could  catch 
glimpses  of  the  summits  of  the  Kaiyuh  Mountains,  a  range  of 
high  hills  to  the  eastward.  The  rig  bank  consists  of  rounded 
bluffs  following  each  other  like  waves,  reaching  a  height  of 
fifty  to  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet,  caused  by  the  bending  of 
the  strata,  which  are  composed  of  layers  of  brown  tertiary 
sandstones  of  Miocene  age.  The  sides  of  these  bluffs,  with  the 
ravines  between  them,  are  well  wooded  with  spruce  and  birch, 
which  often  attain  a  considerable  height.  The  left  bank  is  uni- 
formly low  and  densely  wooded.  The  thermometer  to-day  fell  to 
thirty-two  below  zero,  but  the  air  was  still,  and  travelling  was  not 
uncomfortable.  About  six  o'clock  we  reached  a  broad  ravine, 
through  which  a  small  brook  ran,  and  where  an  Ingalik  named 
Alikoff  had  built  a  small  house,  known  as  Alikoff's  barrdbora. 
This  is  about  twenty  miles  from  Kaltdg,  which,  I  forgot  to  state, 
is  about  twenty-five  miles  from  Ivdn's  barrdbora  and  thirty-six 
from  Nulato,  perhaps  a  lew  miles  more  by  the  road  we  took. 


THE  YUKON   TERRITORY. 


43 


Here  we  decided  to  camp  for  the  night,  and  found  the  house, 
which  was  empty,  rather  smoky  and  uncomfortable. 

Tuesday,  2yt/i.  —  Making  an  early  start  for  Nulato,  we  proceeded 
up  the  river,  the  temperature  being  about  twenty-eight  below 
zero.  About  eleven  o'clock,  arrived  at  an  open  space  nearly  two 
miles  long,  bounded  on  the  south  by  a  sharp  bluff  known  as  the 
Shaman  Mountain.  Here  a  seam  of  coal  had  been  reported,  and, 
stopping  for  a  moment,  I  ascertained  that  the  report  was  correct. 
Reserving  a  careful  examination  for  some  other  occasion,  I  started 
ahead  of  the  dogs,  following  the  old  tracks  on  the  snow,  and  soon 
left  the  brigade  behind  me.  In  half  an  hour  I  reached  a  point  on 
the  river  where  a  party  of  three  Russians  were  engaged  in  setting 
fish-weirs  under  the  ice.  An  old  fellow,  whose  head  shook  like  that 
of  a  Chinese  mandarin,  informed  me  that  the  post  of  Nulato  was 
only  a  mile  beyond.  A  steady  walk  of  nearly  an  hour  convinced 
me  that  it  was  nearer  three  miles,  but  I  soon  espied  the  stockade 
and  two  turrets  at  no  great  distance.  Ascending  the  bank,  I 
went  into  the  enclosure,  and,  inquiring  for  the  Americans,  was 
directed  to  a  low  building  on  one  side.  On  entering  I  was 
soon  shaking  hands  with  Ketchum,  and  with  Whymper,  who 
was  already  engaged  in  sketching. 

VVe  were  congratulated  on  our  quick  trip  from  Ulukuk,  and 
exchanged  items  of  news.  The  noise  of  the  dogs  was  soon  heard, 
and  we  were  busily  engaged  in  unloading  and  storing  the  goods, 
as  well  as  unharnessing  the  dogs,  who  seemed  as  glad  as  anybody 
that  their  journey  had  come  to  a  satisfactory  conclusion. 


II  ; 


li,l 


CHAPTER    II. 

Arrival  at  Nulato,  and  introduction  to  the  Creole  bidarshik.  —  Description  of  the  post 
and  its  inhabitants.  —  Adjacent  points.  —  History.  —  The  Nulato  massacre  and  its 
cause.  —  Barnard's  grave.  —  Daily  life  at  Nulato.  —  Larriown.  —  Koyukun  Indians. 

—  Ingaliks.  —  Kurilla.  —  Plans  for  the  coming  season.  —  Examination  of  a  coal- 
seam.  —  Nuklukahyet  chief.  —  Christmas  festivities.  —  New  Year's  and  erection  of 
the  first  telegraph  pole.  —  Aurora.  —  Return  of  Ketchum.  — Collections  in  Natural 
History.  —  Indian  rumor.  —  Cannibalism.  —  Russian  ingenuity.  —  Founding  of  Fort 
Kennicott.  —  Departure  of  Ketchum  and  Mike  on  their  winter  journey  to  Fort 
Yukon.  —  Arrival  of  our  bidarra.  —  Trip  to  Wolasatu.x'  barrabora.  —  Scarcity  of 
food.  —  First  signs  of  spring.  —  Robbing  a  grave.  —  First  goose.  —  Indian  children. 

—  Rescue  of  the  bidarshik.  —  Anecdote  of  Major  Kennicott  and  erection  of  a  mon- 
ument to  his  memory.  —  Formation  of  alluvium.  —  Preparations  for  our  journey.  — 
Breaking  up  of  the  ice  on  the  Yukon. 

HAVING  finally  arrived  at  Nuldto,  which  I  proposv-d  to 
make  my  head-quarters,  and  having  rested  from  the  fa- 
tigue of  the  journey,  I  was  introduced  to  Ivan  Pavloff,  the  bidar- 
shik or  commander  of  the  trading-post.  He  was  a  short,  thick- 
set, swarthy,  low-browed  man,  a  half-breed  between  a  Russian 
and  a  native  of  Kenai,  and  was  legally  married  to  a  full-blooded 
Indian  woman,  named  Marina,  the  widow  of  a  previous  biddrshik, 
by  whom  he  had  a  large  family  of  children.  He  appeared  to  be 
a  good-humored  fellow,  though  the  Indian  clearly  predominated 
in  him.  While  evidently  understanding  nothing  of  the  object  of 
the  collections  and  observations  which  I  proposed  to  make,  he  yet 
assured  me  that  I  should  be  welcome  to  any  information  or  assist- 
ance I  might  need.  A  disagreeable  servility  marked  his  inter- 
course with  the  Americans  and  full-blooded  Russians,  the  latter 
regarding  him  with  unconcealed  contempt  on  account  of  his 
Indian  blood,  notwithstanding  his  responsible  position.  This 
accounted  for  the  expression  which  might  often  be  observed 
on  his  face  while  conversing  with  him.  It  seemed  a  mixture 
of  stupidity  and  low  cunning,  as  if  he  were  apprehensive  that 
some  covert  ridicule,  or  attempt  at  overreaching,  lay  hidden  in 
the  conversation  addressed  to  him.    He  was  an  insatiable  drinker, 


THE  YUKON  TERRITORY. 


45 


ription  of  the  post 
massacre  and  its 
Koyukun  Indians, 
ination  of  a  coal- 
's and  erection  of 
sctions  in  Natural 
Founding  of  Fort 
journey  to  Fort 
ira.  —  Scarcity  of 
-  Indian  children, 
erection  of  a  mon- 
or  our  journey.  — 


proposed   to 
from  the  fa- 
off,  the  biddr- 
short,  thick- 
a  Russian 
full-blooded 
)us  biddrshik, 
peared  to  be 
redominated 
le  object  of 
make,  he  yet 
ion  or  assist- 
ed his  inter- 
s,  the  latter 
ount  of  his 
ition.      This 
DC   observed 
a  mixture 
■lensive  that 
y  hidden  in 
ble  drinker, 


and  ungovernable  as  .i  mad  bull  when  drunk,  though  at  other 
times  quiet  and  unexcitable.  He  was  continually  pestering  us 
with  requests  for  liquor,  until  I  was  obliged  to  poison  all  the 
alcohol  intended  for  collecting  purposes.  Notwithstanding  his 
faults,  most  of  which  were  hereditary,  he  brought  up  his  chil- 
dren and  treated  his  wife  as  well  as  his  light  allowed  him  to 
do.  He  had  a  large  proportion  of  generosity  and  hospitality 
in  his  character,  was  unusually  free  from  any  disposition  to 
immorality,  and  was  never  known  to  sell  any  furs,  purchased 
by  him  and  belonging  to  the  Russian  American  Company,  to 
any  of  our  party,  as  he  might  easily  have  done.  He  could  not 
read  or  write,  and  the  accounts  were  kept  by  an  assistant  called 
Yagor  Ivdnovich.  He  cherished  in  his  heart  a  dislike  to  the 
Americans  on  account  of  their  superior  energy  and  intelligence, 
which  led  them  to  regard  him  with  no  very  respectful  eye.  When 
he  was  drunk,  the  bitter  and  unfounded  prejudices  which  he  cher- 
ished came  to  the  surface  ;  otherwise  we  should  hardly  have  sus- 
pected them.  I  have  been  thus  careful  in  drawing  his  portrait, 
not  because  the  individual  is  of  any  particular  consequence,  but 
because  he  is  in  many  respects  a  type  of  the  largest  class  of 
the  civilized  inhabitants  of  Russian  America.  They  are  known 
among  the  Russians  as  Creoles.  The  other  inhabitants  of  the 
post  of  Nuldto  were  two  Russians,  the  only  whites  beside  our- 
selves, named  Karpoff  and  Paspilkoff  (the  Pomoghnik,  or  assist- 
ant, who  kept  the  accounts,  was  a  Creole,  like  the  biddrshik) ; 
an  old  Yakut,  named  Yagorsha,  who  was  a  curiosity  in  himself; 
two  half-breeds ;  and  a  few  Indians  ;  while  a  nearly  equal  number 
of  Indian  women  were  employed  in  and  about  the  post. 

The  fort  was  a  large  one,  two  sides  and  a  part  of  the  third 
formed  by  buildings,  the  remainder  a  stockade,  thus  enclosing 
a  large  yard.  On  one  side  was  a  long  structure,  containing  two 
rooms,  which  served  for  the  biddrshik  and  his  assistant  and  their 
families.  These  rooms  were  separate!  by  a  covered  space  from 
the  rest  of  the  building,  which  contained  a  magazine  for  trading- 
goods  and  furs,  a  stoic  room  where  fish  were  kept,  and  another, 
which  was  principally  occupied  by  our  goods.  Opposite  to  this  was 
another  building  of  the  same  size,  containing  one  large  room,  sepa- 
rated in  the  same  way  from  a  small  one,  in  both  of  which  workmen 
and  their  families  lived.     Each  of  their  was  surmounted  with  a 


f 


46 


THE  YUKON   TERRITORY. 


turret  pierced  for  fjuns,  ar  J  in  one  of  these  were  two  antique,  rusty, 
and  almost  useless  six-pounder"  The  third  side  was  occupied 
by  a  low -studded  building,  about  twenty  feet  long  and  ten  wide, 
which  wr  occupied;  a  shed,  where  fuel  might  be  kept  dry;  the 
bath-house,  and  a  shed  used  to  cook  in,  and  called  by  courtesy 
the />07'(ini in,  or  kitchen.  The  front  of  the  yard  was  closed  in  by 
a  stockade  about  sixteen  feet  high,  of  pointed  logs  set  upright  in 
the  ground,  and  was  provided  with  a  large  gate.  'J'he  houses 
were  of  round  logs  ;  the  roofs,  nearly  flat  and  covered  with  earth, 
could  be  reached  by  means  of  steps  provided  for  the  purpose. 
The  windows  were  all  of  the  parchment,  or  seal  intestines,  before 
mentioned,  and  the  buildings  were  warmed  by  the  universal 
peechkas,  the  seams  of  the  walls  being  calked  with  dry  moss. 


■  — - — I.  -  gj.'.' 


Interior  of  Fort  DerSbip,  from  above. 

Directly  across  from  the  fort,  which  faces  the  river,  is  a  low 
island,  less  than  a  mile  long.  The  river  is  narrow  here,  being 
by  exact  measurement  only  a  mile  and  a  half  wide.  The  lati- 
tude of  the  fort  is  nearly  64°  42'  north,  and  the  longitude  157°  54' 
west.  The  variation  of  the  compass  is  nearly  thirty-two  degrees 
to  the  eastward. 

A  mile  and  a  furlong  east-northeast  is  a  small  creek,  a  raging 
torrent  in  the  spring,  called  Klat-kakhdtnc\>y  the  Indians,  literally 
"  Stop-a-bit  River."     Half  a  mile  west-southwest  is  the  mouth  of 


tiquc,  rusty, 
IS  occupied 
d  ten  wide, 
pt  dry ;  the 
by  courtesy 
;losed  in  by 
t  upright  in 
'Jhc  houses 
with  earth, 
he  purpose, 
tines,  before 
le  universal 
y  moss. 


THE  YUKON  TERRITORY. 


47 


the  Nuldto  River,  from  which  the  post  takes  its  name,  though  it 
was  originally  called  Fort  Derabin,  from  its  builder  and  first 
biddrshik.  Hetwecn  these  two  streams  the  land  is  low,  gradually 
rising  from  the  river  into  low  hills,  and  for  the  most  put  densely 
wooded.    A   short  distance   from   its  mouth  the  Niilato  River 


-C-" 
* 


ir,  is  a  low 
lere,  being 
The  lati- 

[de  157°  54' 
|wo  degrees 

|k,  a  raging 

IS,  literally 

mouth  of 


Nul4to  and  the  Yukon  from  the  Bluffs. 

receives  two  streams  of  no  great  size.  Its  total  length  is  about 
twenty  miles,  inclusive  of  windings.  The  opposite  bank  of 
the  Klat-kakhdtnc  rises  abruptly  into  a  rocky,  precipitous  bluff, 
affording  a  fine  view  down  the  river.  Not  far  below  the  mouth 
of  the  Nulato  the  river-bank  rises,  but  not  so  abruptly,  into  bluffs 


48 


THE  YUKON  TERRITORY. 


about  one   hundred   feet  high,  with  higher  hills  behind  them. 
Neither  deer  nor  moose  are  often  found  in  this  vicinity. 

In  1838,  Malakoff,  a  Creole,  explored  the  Yukon  as  far  north  as 
Nulato.  Here  he  built  a  small  trading-post,  without  a  stockade, 
consisting  of  several  small  houses.  This  was  occupied  during 
the  summer  and  fall,  but  in  consequence  of  the  scarcity  of  pro- 
visions, at  the  approach  of  winter  the  Russians,  under  Notarmi 
the  bidarshik,  left  it  and  returned  to  the  Redoul  L.  On  their 
return,  in  the  spring,  it  was  found  that  the  Indians,  jealous  of  the 
permanent  settlement  of  the  whites  in  their  immediate  vicinity, 
had  destroyed  it  by  fire.  The  same  thing  was  repeated  in  1839, 
the  buildings  being  burned  and  contents  carried  off. 

In  1 84 1,  according  to  Tikhm^nief,  the  historian  of  the  Russian 
American  Company,  Derdbin  was  sent  to  Nulato  and  rebuilt  the 
fort,  after  arranging  the  difficulty  with  the  natives  by  means  of 
numerous  presents  given  to  the  most  influential  chiefs.  Yet,  not 
having  benefited  by  previous  experience,  the  post  was  composed  of 
several  detached  log-houses,  strongly  built,  but  several  hundred 
yards  apart,  and  without  a  stockade  or  other  efficient  means  of  de- 
fence. Other  buildings  were  added  as  necessity  called  for  them, 
and  in  1842,  Lieutenant  Zagoskin,  I.  R.  N.,  a  special  explorer  of  the 
Company,  arrived,  and  assisted  at  the  erection  of  some  of  these. 

For  ten  years,  though  frequently  threatened,  the  little  settle- 
ment escaped  injury,  Derdbin  meanwhile  carrying  on  a  lucrative 
traffic  with  the  natives  for  furs.  In  the  spring  of  185 1,  Lieutenant 
Barnard,  of  H.  M.  S.  Enterprise,  arrived  at  Nulato  with  the  bidar- 
shik, in  search  of  information  in  regard  to  the  fate  of  Sir  John 
Franklin.  He  was  a  member  of  Captain  Collinson's  Expedition, 
and,  with  Mr.  Adams  a  surgeon,  and  one  man,  had  been  left  by 
the  Enterprise  at  St.  Michael's  the  preceding  fall  Being  prob- 
ably a  blunt,  straightforward  Englishman,  with  no  knowledge 
of  Indian  character  and  suspicion,  he  made  the  remark,  in  the 
presence  of  others,  that  he  intended  to  "  send  "  for  the  principal 
chief  of  the  Koyukun  tribe  of  Indians,  whose  head-quaitors  wen; 
on  the  Koyukuk  an-^l  Kotclkakat  Rivers,  and  who  were  then  hold- 
ing one  of  their  annual  festivals,  about  twenty-five  miles  from 
Nuldto.  This  unfortunately-worded  remark  was  conveyed  to  the 
chief  in  question,  through  some  of  the  Indians  at  the  post,  by  a 
passing  native. 


THE   YUKON   TERRITORY. 


49 


ehind  them. 

far  north  as 
t  a  stockade, 
jpicd  during 
ircity  of  pro- 
der  Notdrmi 
L.  On  their 
ealous  of  the 
liate  vicinity, 
Ltcd  in  1839, 

'  the  Russian 
d  rebuilt  the 
by  means  of 
zk.  Yet,  not 
>  composed  of 
'eral  hundred 
;  means  of  de- 
lUed  for  them, 
explorer  of  the 
me  of  these. 

little  settle- 
on  a  lucrative 
I,  Lieutenant 
ith  the  bidar- 
of  Sir  John 
;   Expedition, 
been  left  by 
Being  prob- 
lO  knowledge 
mark,  in  the 
the  principal 
uurters  were 
re  then  hokl- 
le  miles  from 
vcyed  to  the 
[he  post,  by  a 


This  chief  was  the  most  wealthy  and  influential  in  that  part  of 
the  country,  widely  known  and  distinguished  by  a  remarkably 
large  and  prominent  Roman  nose,  from  which  he  had  received 
a  name  which,  literally  translated,  means  "  humpbacked  nose.' 

He  was  not  accustomed  to  be  "  sent "'  for.  When  the  Russians 
desired  to  see  him  they  respectfully  requested  the  honor  of  his 
presence.  His  Indian  pride  rose  at  the  insult,  and  he  immediately 
called  a  council  to  discuss  the  rumor.  The  .shamans  were  of 
course  first  consulted,  and  they  unanimously  declared  that  it 
boded  no  good  to  the  chief  in  question.  The  council  then  de- 
cided that,  if  the  report  proved  true,  they  would,  with  all  the 
Indians  there  assembled,  go  together  to  the  fort  and  demand 
satisfaction.  They  waited  some  time,  and  finally  were  about  to 
disperse  to  their  homes,  when  a  single  dog-sled  appeared  on  the 
river. 

This  sled  was  accompanied  by  Ivan  Biilegin,  a  Russian,  and  an 
Indian  workman  of  the  Nukito  tribe,  who  had  been  sent  up  to  see 
if  any  information  were  attainable,  and  if  so,  to  bring  down  the 
Tyone  of  Koyiikuk. 

The  ill-fated  Biilegin  drew  his  sled  up  on  the  bank,  sending  the 
Indian  who  accompanied  him  for  water  to  boil  the  chynik.  Sit- 
ting down  on  his  sled  to  rest  himself,  he  was  approached  stealth- 
ily from  behind  and,  being  struck  on  the  head  with  an  a.xc  or 
club,  was  instantly  killed. 

The  sled  was  dragged  away  and  j^lundcred  ;  when  the  Nulato 
Indian  returned  and  saw  what  had  been  done,  he  turned  to  run, 
but  the  Koyukuns  called  to  him,  saying,  "Are  you  not  one  of  us  .■* 
We  will  not  hurt  you."  Overcome  by  fear,  he  returned  and  un- 
willingly assisted  in  the  atrocity  which  followed.  Biilegin's  body 
was  stripped,  the  flesh  cut  in  slices  from  the  bones,  and  the  sav- 
ages, infuriated  like  wild  animals  by  the  sight  of  blood,  roasted 
these  remains  and  devoured  them.  An  Indian,  who  noticed  the 
reluctance  with  whicli  Bulcgin's  companion  joined  in  the  horrid 
feast,  crept  up  behind  him  and  drove  his  knife  up  to  the  hilt  in 
his  neck.  The  fighting  men  present  then  stripped  themselves 
of  all  incumbrances  except  their  bows  and  arrows,  and,  putting 
on  their  snowshocs,  set  out  at  once  for  Nulato.  Less  than  a 
iialf-mile  below  the  trading-post  were  thiee  largo  winter  houses, 
crowded  with  Ingaliks  of  the  Nulato  tribe,  —  in  all,  about  a  hun- 


50 


THE   YUKON   TERRITORY. 


dred  men,  women,  and  children.  These  houses  were  situated  near 
the  river-bank,  a  few  rods  northeast  of  the  mouth  of  the  Nulato 
River.  It  being  in  the  month  of  February,  and  an  unusually 
warm  spring,  the  Nulato  Indians  had  taken  the  precaution  to  clear 
away  the  snow  from  above  their  birch-bark  canoes,  forty  or  fifty  of 
which  were  lying  about.  Intending  to  forestall  retaliation  for  the 
death  of  Biilegin's  companion,  the  Koyukuns  approached  with  the 
greatest  quietness,  not  to  disturb  the  sleeping  inmates.  The  canoes 
were  seized,  broken  up,  thrust  into  the  apertures  in  the  roofs  and 
the  narrow  underground  entrances  of  the  houses,  and  fired.  The 
frightened  inhabitants,  wakened  by  the  noise  and  crackling  of  the 
flames,  endeavored  vainly  to  force  a  passage  through  the  fire. 
Some  of  ihe  men,  seizing  axes,  cut  their  way  out  through  the 
wooden  walls,  but  were  mercilessly  shot  down  by  the  arrows  of 
the  Koyukuns.  Many  were  suffocated  in  the  smoke.  A  few 
women  ',y<;re  taken  by  the  victors,  and  one  or  two  children  were 
able  to  save  themselves  in  the  woods,  through  the  negligence  or 
pity  of  the  conquerors. 

A  young  man  called  Wolasatux,  renowned  for  his  skill  with  the 
bov/,  escaped  to  the  mountains,  eluding  the  vigilance  of  the  pur- 
suers by  his  swiftness  of  foot.  All  the  rest  were  smothered  or  fell 
beneath  the  knives  and  arrows  of  the  assailants.  But  little  noise 
was  made,  except  by  the  screams  of  the  women  and  the  shouts  of 
the  destroyers,  for  at  that  time  the  Ind'ans  had  no  guns.  The 
slumbers  of  the  Russians  were  not  disturbed. 

It  is  said  that  two  Indian  women  who  were  employed  at  the 
fort,  having  risen  early  to  boil  the  chyniks  for  the  morning  meal, 
heard  and  understood  the  cries  of  the  victims,  but,  overcome  by 
fear  and  anguish  at  the  death  of  their  kindred,  stupidly  shut 
themselves  into  the  cook-house,  and  did  not  alarm  the  Russians. 

The  Koyukuns  next  made  for  the  tradiag-post,  and  found  the 
bidarshik,  just  risen,  sitting  behind  one  of  the  houses.  Saying 
to  Ivan,  one  of  their  tribe  who  had  been  employed  at  the  fort 
as  interpreter,  "  If  you  do  not  kill  the  bidarshik,  we  will  kill 
you,"  they  forced  him  to  consent.  He  approached  Derabin  and 
.stabbed  him  in  the  back  repeatedly,  so  that  he  fell  to  rise  no 
more.  The  Russian  interpreter,  a  man  said  to  have  understood 
seven  languages,  happening  to  come  out,  saw  the  act,  and  turning 
unarmed  to  the  Indians,  upbraided  them  for  the  murder,  but  fell 


THE   YUKON   TERRITORY. 


tuated  near 
the  Nulato 
1  unusually 
tion  to  clear 
y  or  fifty  of 
Ltion  for  the 
ed  with  the 
The  canoes 
le  roofs  and 
fired.  The 
kling  of  the 
^h  the  fire. 
;hrough  the 
e  arrows  of 
)ke.  A  few 
lildren  were 
egligence  or 

ikill  with  the 
of  the  pur- 
;hered  or  fell 
t  little  noise 
le  shouts  of 
guns.     The 

[oyed  at  the 
irning  meal, 
ivercome  by 
.ipidly   shut 
Russians, 
found  the 
les.     Saying 
at  the  fort 
e   will   kill 
lerabin  and 
to  rise  no 
understood 
,nd  turning 
ler,  but  fell 


SI 


in  the  doorway,  pierced  with  seven  arrows.  Rushing  over  his 
prostrate  body,  they  entered  the  house.  Barnard  was  lying  on 
his  bed  reading ;  at  the  sight  of  the  hostile  Indians  he  raised  him- 
self up  to  reach  his  gun,  which  hung  above  his  head.  Twice  he 
fired,  and  twice  the  barrel  was  struck  upwards,  the  balls  taking 
effect  in  the  ceiling.  An  Indian  shaman  —  christened  Larriown  by 
the  Russians  — and  his  brother  seized  the  arms,  and  one  plunged 
his  knife  into  the  Englishman's  abdomen,  so  that  when  it  was 
withdrawn  the  inte<5tines  followed  it,  and  he  fell  back  mortally 
wounded.  Several  shots  were  fired,  and  one  struck  Larriown  in 
the  groin.  Three  children  and  their  mother  were  killed;  their 
father,  Teleezhik,  being  absent  in  the  Kaviak  peninsula,  as  inter- 
preter, with  Captain  Bedford  Pirn. 

Leaving  the  bidarshik's  house,  the  Indians  next  attacked  the 
casdnncr,  or  room  where  the  workmen  lived,  where  there  were 
two  Russians  and  several  Creoles.  Tliey  had  barricaded  the  door, 
and  being  at  some  distance  from  the  other  house,  knew  nothing 
that  had  happened.  One  of  them  aimed  through  uhe  window  at 
the  crowd  of  Indians  ;  when  the  other,  hoping  to  avoid  blood- 
shed, advised  him  to  fire  above  their  heads,  in  hope  that  they 
would  disperse.  The  crowd  separated,  but  did  not  retreat,  and 
only  answered  by  a  shower  of  arrows.  The  next  shot,  better 
aimed,  killed  one  of  the  Indian?,  when  a  panic  seemed  to  seize 
them,  and  they  immediately  retreated  with  their  booty  and  pris- 
oners to  Koyukuk.  Larriown  sat  in  great  agony  in  the  outer 
room  of  the  bidarshik's  house.  A  Russian  lay  in  the  inner  room, 
helpless  from  fever,  who  had  been  overlooked  by  the  Indians  in  the 
excitement.  His  wife,  an  Indian  woman  named  Maria,  brought 
hi-n  a  loaded  pistol,  and  held  him  up  while  he  fired  at  the  sha- 
man. His  trembling  hands  could  not  direct  the  ball,  and  Lar- 
riown dragged  himself  out  to  the  river-bank.  Here  he  found  a 
Koyiikun  woman,  who  had  been  stayin<;  at  the  fort,  with  her 
baby  on  a  little  sled,  which  she  was  drawing  by  a  band  over  her 
forehead.  He  threw  the  child  into  the  snow,  and  ordered  her  to 
draw  him  to  Koyukuk.  She  refused,  and  he  stabbed  her  to  the 
bcart !  How  he  finally  got  away,  no  one  knows.  Thus  ended 
the  Nulato  massacre. 

An  Ingalik,  named  Lofka,  was  sent  by  the  Russians  with  a 
letter  to  the  Redoubt.     He  placed  it  in  his  boot,  fortunately,  for 


Ill 


J'U 


■I '  *'     , 
i     1 


f 


Sa 


THE   YUKON   TERRITORY. 


he  was  stopped  on  the  river  and  searched  by  two  Koyukuns,  who 
suspected  his  errand.     Finding  nothing,  they  let  him  go. 

Mr.  Adams,  the  surgeon,  immediately  started,  with  Tel^ezhik 
and  a  party  of  Russians,  for  Nulato.  Captain  Pirn,  having  re- 
turned from  his  adventurous  journey  frost-bitten,  could  not  ac- 
company him,  and  remained  at  Unalaklfk. 

The  Russians  had  sewed  up  the  wounds  ;  but,  before  Mr. 
Adams  arrived.  Lieutenant  Barnard  was  dead.  It  only  remained 
for  him  to  perform  the  last  sad  offices  and  to  erect  a  cross  over 
his  grave,  with  the  following  inscription  :  — 

LIEUTENANT  J.  J.    BARNARD, 

Of  H.  M.  Enterprise, 

Killed  Feb.  i6,  185 1, 

BY    THE    KOUKUK    INDIANS. 

F.  A. 

The  Russian  American  Company,  as  is  the  wont  of  trading 
companies,  never  took  any  measures  of  retaliation  for  this  mas- 
sacre. Larriown,  and  Ivan,  the  murderer  of  the  bidarshik,  arc 
frequent  visitors  at  the  fort.  Presents  wore  sent  to  the  Koyiikuu 
chiefs,  and  there  the  matter  ended.  A  stockaded  fort  was  soon 
built  on  the  present  site,  and  the  graves  of  Barnard  and  Derd- 
bin  lie  a  stone's  throw  behind  it.  The  excavations  where  the 
Indian  houses  stood  are  still  to  be  seen,  and  form  the  graves  of 
those  natives  who  perished  by  the  massacre. 

On  the  29th  of  November  the  indefatigable  Mike  started 
again  for  Ulukuk.  I  occupied  myself  with  putting  my  instru- 
ments in  order  for  meteorological  observations.  The  thermome- 
ter, a  standard  one,  registered  thirty-six  below  zero.  Our  cook 
and  principal  assistant  about  the  house,  in  the  absence  of  the 
fairer  sex,  was  Peetka,  the  son  of  Ivan,  previously  mentioned  as 
the  murderer  of  Derabin.  His  father  was  acting  as  an  inter- 
preter for  the  Russians.  In  an  Indian  house,  outside  the  stock- 
ade, Larri6wn  was  domiciled  with  his  wife  and  child.  The  appear- 
ance of  this  man  was  remarkable.  A  small  round  head  and  face, 
piercing  eyes,  thin  scattered  hair,  a  short  pug  nose  (unusual  in  an 
Indian),  a  tremendous  development  of  the  muscles  of  the  jaw, 
a  very  dark  complexion,  and  a  fiendish  expression  of  countenance 
combined  to  make  his  appearance  the  reverse  of  attractive,  even 
when  in  good  humor. 


THE  YUKON   TERRITORY. 


53 


)yukuns,  who 
1  go. 

ith  Teleezhik 
n,  having  re- 
could  not  ac- 

t,   before   Mr. 

)nly  remained 

a  cross  over 


ont  of  trading 

for  this  mas- 

bidarshik,  are 

)  the  Koyukuvi 

fort  was  soon 

ard  and  Derd- 

ons  where  the 

1  the  graves  of 

Mike   started 
Ing  my  instru- 
Mie  thermome- 
|ro.     Our  cook 
ibsence  of  the 
mentioned  as 
as   an   inter- 
Iside  the  stock- 
The  appear- 
Ihead  and  face, 
(unusual  in  an 
Ics  of  the  jaw, 
)f  countenance 
Ittractive,  even 


His  wife   possessed  some  of  these  characteristics  in  a  lesser 
degree,  but  was  equally  repulsive.     Both  of  them   had  gained, 
by  a  long  list  of  evil  deeds,  a  reputation  as  sorcerers  or  shamans, 
which  made  their  influence  among  the  Indians  immense.     Both 
of  them  were  well  acquainted  with  the  uses  of  intoxicating  liquors, 
which  for  some  years  the  Koyiikuns  have  obtained  from  traders 
at  Kotzebue  Sound.     This  circumstance  has  done  much  to  ren- 
der the  tribe,  naturally  cruel  and  turbulent,  one  of  the  worst  in 
the  territory.     Fortunately,  disease  and  the  scarcity  of  food,  annu- 
ally increased  by  the  use  of  firearms  in  killing  reindeer,  have 
reduced  their  numbers,  and  at  present  they  can  hardly  muster 
over  two  hundred  families.     From  increased  immorality,  due  to 
the  introduction  of  liquor,  the  births  are  few,  and  hardly  replace 
the  deaths.     Few  women  have  more  than  two  children,  while 
many   have   only  one,   a   large   proportion    being   barren.     The 
tribe,  therefore,  may  be  regarded  as  on  its  way  to  extinction. 
They  are  of  the  family  of  Ti'nneh,  belonging,  with  the  Ingaliks 
and   Nowikakat   Indians,   to   the   division   of    Eastern   Ti'nneh. 
Their  dialect  is  closely  allied      t   the    Ingalik,   hardly  differing 
more  from  it  than  the  widely  separated  local  dialects  of  Ingalik 
differ  from   one   another.     Their   principal  villages  are  on    the 
Kotclkdkat   and   Kotelno  Rivers,   the   largest   being   known   as 
Kotelkakat. 

The  Indians  living  on  the  Yukon  between  Koyiikuk  and 
Nuklukahyet  are  known  to  the  Ingaliks  as  Unakatana,  or 
"far-off  people,"  and  call  themselves,  with  most  other  Indians 
living  on  the  river,  Yukon ikatana,  or  "  men  of  the  Yukon." 

The  Nukito  Ingaliks  are  nearly  extinct.  The  Ingaliks  liv- 
ing on  the  other  side  of  the  Yukon,  between  it  and  the  Kaiyuh 
Mountains  (known  as  Takai'tsky  to  the  Russians),  bear  the  name 
of  Kaiyuhkatdna,  or  "  lowland  people,"  and  the  other  branches  of 
Ingaliks  have  similar  names,  while  preserving  their  general  tribal 
name. 

The  Ingaliks  are,  as  a  rule,  tall,  well-made,  but  slender.  They 
have  very  long,  squarely  oval  faces,  high  prominent  cheek-bones, 
large  ears,  small  mouths,  noses,  and  eyes,  and  an  unusually  large 
lower  jaw.  The  nose  is  well  formed  and  aquiline,  but  small  in 
proportion  to  the  rest  of  the  face.  The  hair  is  long,  coarse,  and 
black,  and  generally  parted  in  the  middle.     But  few  of  them 


II 


n',! 


54 


THE  YUKON  TERRITORY. 


shave  the  crowr.j  as  is  the  custom  among  the  Eskimo.  Their 
complexion  is  an  ashy  brown,  perhaps  from  dirt  in  many  cases, 
and  they  seldom  have  much  color.  On  the  other  hand,  the 
Koyukuns,  with  the  same  high  cheek-bones  and  piercing  eyes, 
have  much  shorter  faces,  more  roundly  oval,  of  a  pale  olive  hue 
and  frequently  arched  eyebrows  and  a  fine  color.  They  are  the 
most  attractive  in  appearance  of  the  Indians  in  this  part  of  the 
territory,  as  they  are  the  most  untamable.  The  women  espe- 
cially are  more  attractive  than  those  among  the  Ingaliks,  whose 
square  faces  and  ashy  complexion  render  the  latter  very  plain, 
not  to  say  repulsive.  The  women  do  up  their  hair  in  two  braids, 
one  on  each  side  ;  but  among  the  Koyukuns  it  is  not  uncommon 
to  see  the  hair  cut  short,  especially  after  a  death  in  the  family. 
The  detached  hair  is  tied  up  in  a  little  bundle  and  placed  in  the 
crotch  of  a  tree,  or  anywhere  where  it  will  not  be  disturbed  by 
animals.  Parings  from  the  nails  are  treated  in  the  same  way,  as 
they  have  a  superstition  that  disease  will  follow  the  disturbance 
of  such  remains  by  wild  animals. 

The  original  dress  of  the  male  Koyukuns  consists  of  a  pair 
of  breeches  of  deerskin,  with  the  moccasins,  or  coverings  for  the 
feet,  attached,  and  a  deerskin  parka  w'thout  any  hood,  long 
and  pomted  before  and  behind.  At  present  they  buy  many 
articles  of  cioihing  from  the  Eskimo  and  from  the  Russians, 
especially  for  winter  wear.  They  are  fond  of  ornaments  and  gay 
colors,  while  the  Ingaliks,  who  wear  clothing  much  like  that 
adopted  by  the  Eskimo,  care  little  for  ornaments  or  beads. 
Both  build  houses  similar  to  those  already  described,  while  the 
other  tribes  of  the  same  family,  to  the  eastward,  build  only  tem- 
porary lodges  of  skins  and  poles,  which  they  transport  from  place 
to  place.  The  habits,  utensils,  and  mode  of  life  of  the  Ingaliks 
and  Koyukuns  are  very  similar,  and  will  be  more  fully  uescribed 
hereafter. 

They  depend  for  food  upon  the  reindeer  and  moose,  salmon 
and  other  fish,  and  small  game,  more  or  less,  according  to  the  re- 
sources of  the  locality  in  which  they  live.  At  Nulato  the  only 
dependence  is  fish,  and  some  small  game,  such  as  grouse  and 
water-fowl  in  their  seasons.  There  are  no  deer  or  moose  at 
Nulilto,  and  food  is  often  very  scarce. 

I  found  a  constant  current  of  cold  air,  with  a  temperature  from 


THE  YUKON   TERRITORY. 


55 


kimo.  Their 
I  many  cases, 
er  hand,  the 
)iercing  eyes, 
lie  olive  hue 
They  are  the 
is  part  of  the 
women  espe- 
galiks,  whose 
r  very  plain, 
in  two  braids, 
)t  uncommon 
in  the  family, 
placed  in  the 
disturbed  by 
same  way,  as 
;  disturbance 

sts  of  a  pair 

;rings  for  the 

y  hood,  long 

y  buy  many 

he  Russians, 

ents  and  gay 

ch  like   that 

ts  or  beads. 

d,  while  the 

d  only  tem- 

rt  from  place 

the  Ingaliks 

ly  uescribed 

oose,  salmon 
ng  to  the  re- 
ito  the  only 
grouse  and 
or  moose  at 

erature  from 


32°  to  —  55°  Fah.,  entering  our  room  by  means  of  the  cracks 

in  the  floor,  which  was  composed  of  logs  squared  on  the  upper 
side.  Needles,  forks,  spoons,  and  other  articles  of  use  and  orna- 
ment followed  each  other  into  the  abyss.  The  matter,  though 
lau""hable,  was  also  serious,  as  our  stock  of  the  last-named 
articles  amounted  to  only  one  apiece.  After  consultation  we 
employed  Kun'lla,  one  of  the  few  surviving  Nuldto  Indians, 
to  calk  the  seams  with  moss.  Our  stock  of  this  was  soon  ex- 
hausted, following  the  spoons,  and  we  made  the  best  of  a  bad 
job  by  covering  the  floor  thickly  with  straw,  that  again  with 
mats,  and  over  all  nailing  some  old  blankets.  By  placing  a  few 
reindeer-skins  about  for  rugs,  we  managed  to  improve  matters  a 
good  deal.  Previously,  one  day  when  the  freshly  heated  peechka 
was  pouring  out  a  generous  supply  of  hot  air,  I  tried  the  ther- 
mometer at  the  eaves,  where  it  stood  at  ninety  ;  four  feet  above  the 
floor  gave  a  temperature  of  forty-five,  while  on  the  floor  the  mer- 
cury indicated  several  degrees  below  freezing.  The  walls  were 
inything  but  tight,  and  the  warm  air  of  the  room  deposited  its 
extra  moisture  in  hoar-frost,  like  feathers,  near  the  fissures. 

Peetka  proved  very  unreliable,  disappearing  and  staying  so, 
just  when  we  wanted  him,  and  Kun'lla,  the  Indian  before  men- 
tioned, was  secured  as  a  substitute.  His  history  was  romantic. 
Son  of  a  wealthy  and  influential  chief  and  shaman,  at  the  time 
of  the  Nulato  massacre  he  was  but  three  or  four  years  old  ;  in  it 
his  father,  mother,  and  all  their  family  perished.  The  boy  and 
his  sister,  a  year  older,  were  in  the  trading-post  at  the  time,  and 
escaped  unharmed,  from  their  extreme  youth.  Some  of  the  Rus- 
sians had  taken  pity  on  them  and  brought  them  up,  until,  as  they 
grew  older,  they  were  able  to  earn  their  own  living. 

His  sister,  christened  Anna,  was  one  of  the  most  comely  Inga- 
liks who  came  under  our  notice.  Both  of  them  were  unusu- 
ally tall ;  both  had  acquired  habits  of  neatness  and  an  excel- 
lent knowledge  of  the  Russian  language,  from  their  residence  in 
the  trading-post.  Anna  was  married  to  a  very  good  kind  of 
fellow,  an  Ingalik,  who  had  accompanied  us  in  our  journey  from 
Ulukuk  and  who  was  named  Little  Sidorka,  to  distinguish  him 
from  another  of  the  same  name  but  of  greater  longitude. 

Kun'lla  proved  to  be  a  faithful  and  intelligent  fellow,  and  having 
had  some  experience  in  cooking  for  our  parties  during  the  previ- 


T 


56 


THE  YUKON   TERRITORY. 


ous  year,  was  well  qualified  to  assist  in  the  culinary  department. 
To  be  sure,  our  style  of  living  was  simple  and  unostentatious, 
consisting  principally  of  fried  white-fish  three  times  a  day,  varied 
by  bacon,  of  which  we  were  very  sparing  when  fish  was  obtain- 
able. 

Finding  a  blanket  on  the  bare  boards,  even  alleviated  by  a 
deerskin,  rather  uncomfortable  sleeping  arrangements,  we  pur- 
chased several  large  feather-beds,  filled  with  spoils  from  the  wild 
geese  and  ducks,  and  had  a  small  mattress  made  from  them  for 
each  one  of  the  party.  With  the  addition  of  a  pillow  from  the 
same  source,  we  felt  as  if  we  could  enjoy  the  sleep  of  the  just, 
without  danger  of  rheumatism. 

Our  plans  for  the  coming  season  were  now  discussed  and 
approximately  settled.  Whymper  and  myself  decided  to  ascend 
the  Yukon  together,  as  far  as  Fort  Yukon,  by  water  in  the  spring. 
Ketchum  proposed,  in  company  with  Mike  Lebarge,  to  make  the 
same  journey  over  the  ice,  with  dogs  and  sleds,  in  February. 
Dyer  was  to  descend  the  Yukon  and  investigate  the  delta.  On 
the  4th  of  December  the  temperature  was  fifty-six, below  zero. 
Faint  parhelia  appeared.  In  a  short  walk  I  observed  that  the 
atmosphere  seemed  filled  with  an  icy  mist,  small  acicular  crystals 
of  ice  suspended  in  the  air.  On  the  7th,  the  weather  being 
milder  (twenty-two  below  zero),  I  decided  to  visit  the  coal  seam 
below  Nulato  before  the  snow  should  cover  it.  Only  one  dog  was 
available ;  so,  getting  a  small  sled,  and  packing  our  blankets, 
chynik,  and  mess-pan  upon  it,  with  a  bag  for  bringing  some  coal 
from  the  vein  for  trial,  I  started  ahead,  while  Kurflla  followed 
with  the  sled.  We  met  Yagorsha  on  the  way,  who  with  many 
gesticulations  declared  that  we  were  going  to  have  a  severe  snow- 
storm, and  that  we  had  better  turn  back.  I  concluded  to  risk  it, 
however,  and  we  finally  arrived  at  the  Shaman  Bluff,  where  we 
soon  found  a  sheltered  ravine  with  plenty  of  dry  wood  ;  spread- 
ing a  blanket  as  an  awning  to  keep  off  the  snow,  which  came 
thick  and  fast,  we  built  a  cheerful  fire  and  enjoyed  our  tea. 
After  a  good  night's  rest  and  a  hearty  breakfast  of  bacon,  biscuit, 
and  tea,  I  went  to  the  end  of  the  bluff,  where  the  coal  was  situ- 
ated. A  thorough  examination  of  it  showed  that  the  seam  was 
much  contorted,  running  out  at  each  end  completely  ;  that  the 
only  mass  of  coal  was  in  a  large  pocket  or  elbow  of  the  contorted 


THE   YUKON   TERRITORY. 


57 


seam  ;  and  that  the  whole  deposit  contained  less  than  a  ton. 
What  there  was  of  it  was  of  excellent  quality,  hardened  by 
heat  and  compression ;  it  was  enclosed  on  each  side  by  thin 
layers  of  shale  and  the  brown  Miocene  sandstone  previously 
alluded  to. 

Filling  a  bag  with  fragments  of  coal  and  geological  specimens 
as  trophies,  we  started  homeward.  The  poor  dog,  I  am  afraid, 
had  a  hard  time  of  it,  what  with  the  soft  new  snow  and  the 
weight  of  the  bag,  but  we  arrived  without  detention  or  accident, 
though  rather  tired. 

Kurflla,  who  was  an  excellent  shot  and  an  enthusiastic  sports- 
man, liked  nothing  better  than  to  spend  an  hour  every  day  shoot- 
ing specimens  for  our  collection.  I  obtained  many  more  than 
I  had  dared  to  hope  for  in  this  way, — redpolls,  downy  and 
three-toed  woodpeckers,  pine  grosbeaks,  titmice,  hawk-owls,  and 
(strange  to  say)  a  bullfinch  {Pyrrlnda),  the  first  ever  shot  on  the 
American  continent.  On  the  nth,  Mike  returned  from  Uliikuk 
with  Francis,  and  this  event,  with  the  news  that  our  friends 
brought  from  below,  was  quite  a  relief  to  the  monotony  of  our 
daily  life. 

On  the  1 2th,  a  chief  arrived  at  the  fort  from  Nukliikahy^t, 
where  the  Tanandh  River  joins  the  Yukon.  He  greeted  Ketchum 
as  an  old  acquaintance,  and  promised  to  have  plenty  of  moose 
meat  for  us  when  we  should  come  that  way  in  the  spring.  He 
remained  several  days  at  the  fort,  and  on  one  of  them  assembled 
a  number  of  Indians  in  our  room  and  discoursed  to  them  at  the 
top  of  his  lungs  for  nearly  two  hours.  I  expected  to  see  him 
drop  from  exhaustion,  every  minute  of  the  last  half-hour,  but  long 
practice  had  doubtless  inured  him  to  it,  and  I  resigned  myself, 
while  one  of  the  party  took  up  a  concertina  and  played  "  Tramp, 
tramp  "  by  way  of  diversity. 

The  return  brigade  was  intrusted  to  Scratchett,  who  left, 
with  Francis,  for  Unalaklfk  on  the  17th,  while  Mike  rested  his 
wearv  bones  for  a  season. 

I  continued  adding  to  my  collections  and  vocabularies,  and 
setting  traps  for  foxes,  who  had  a  fashion  of  carrying  off  the  bait 
without  disturbing  the  trap.  Ivan  Pavloff,  however,  succeeded  in 
trapping  several,  of  which  I  secured  the  skeletons.  Whymper 
was  busily  at  work  on  his  sketches,  while  Mike  and    Ketchum 


■■■1 


h 

i! 


38 


THE   YUKON   TERRITORY. 


were  getting  ready  for  their  proposed  journey.  Altogether,  time 
did  not  hang  very  heavily  on  our  hands. 

We  found  the  Indians  to  be  a  great  nuisance  in  one  way. 
They  had  a  habit  of  coming  in  and  sitting  down,  doing  and 
saying  nothing,  but  watching  everything.  At  meal-times  they 
seemed  to  count  and  weigh  every  morsel  we  ate,  and  were  never 
backward  in  assisting  to  dispose  of  the  remains  of  the  meal. 
Occasionally  we  would  get  desperate  and  clean  them  all  out ; 
but  they  would  drop  in  again,  and  we  could  do  nothing  but 
resign  ourselves  to  the  annoyance,  as  we  did  not  wish  to  offend 
them.  They  intended  no  offence,  doubtless,  but  wanted  an  oppor- 
tunity of  studying  the  Anglo-Saxon  species  of  the  genus  homo  in 
its  lair. 

Fish  growing  scarce,  Kdrpoff  was  fitted  out  with  some  trading- 
goods,  and  sent  to  Koyiikuk  in  hope  that  he  might  obtain  some 
grouse  or  rabbits  from  the  Indians  of  that  locality. 

Christmas  time  approaching,  we  joined  in  endeavoring  to  cele- 
brate the  day  appropriately.  Our  knowledge  of  chemistry  and 
the  domestic  arts  was  taxed  to  the  utmost  in  the  production 
of  pies,  gingerbread,  and  cranberry  dumplings  ;  while  a  piece 
of  Uliikuk  reindeer  meat,  which  had  been  kept  frozen  ever 
since  our  journey  across  the  portage,  performed  the  office  of 
the  customary  "roast  beef  of  old  England,"  and  a  brace  of 
roasted  ptarmigan  represented  the  Yankee  turkeys.  Green  peas, 
tomatoes,  and  other  preserved  vegetables  were  produced  for  the 
occasion ;  and,  with  the  company  of  the  bidarshik  and  his  assist- 
ant, we  sat  down  to  the  best  dinner  ever  eaten  in  that  part  of  the 
continent.  The  day  was  enlivened  by  the  reading  of  several 
original  literary  productions,  and  the  brewing  of  a  mild  bowl 
of  punch  from  a  supply  of  old  Jamaica,  which  we  owed  to  the 
kind  thoughtfulness  of  Mrs;  Scammon.  Altogether  the  occasion 
was  one  which  will  long  be  remembered  with  pleasure  by  those 
who  took  part  in  it. 

The  27th  of  December  an  observation  was  made,  which 
showed  the  day  to  be  just  three  hours  long.  As  nearly  as 
our  watches  could  determine,  the  sun  rose  at  a  quarter  before 
eleven,  and  set  at  a  quarter  of  two.  Proposing  on  New- Year's 
day  to  raise  the  first  telegraph  pole  in  the  division  of  the  Yu- 
kon,  Mike  went  out   with   Kun'lla,  and   returned   with   a   fine 


THE   YUKON   TERRITORY. 


59 


spruce,  of  the  orthodox  dimensions,  for  the  purpose.  An  In- 
dian, with  the  euphonious  Russian  name  of  Squirtzoff,  was  em- 
ployed to  peel  and  trim  it. 

On  the  31st  we  sat  the  Old  Year  out,  and  hailed  the  New 
with  its  prospect  of  successful  explorations.  We  had  hoped 
that  our  party  might  all  be  present  on  New- Year's  day;  but 
there  was  no  sign  of  the  expected  arrival  of  Mr.  Dyer.  After 
breakfast  we  went  out  in  a  body  and  raised  the  first  telegraph 
pole,  ornamented  with  the  flags  of  the  United  States,  the  Tele- 
graph Expedition,  the  Masonic  fraternity,  and  the  Scientific 
Corps.  A  salute  of  thirty-six  guns  was  fired, — one  for  each 
State  ;  and  the  enthusiastic  Kun'Ua  was  brought  to  the  ground 
by  the  recoil  of  a  great  Russian  blunderbuss,  which  he  had 
undertaken  to  discharge. 

A  few  days  after,  Ivan  Pavloff  returned  from  a  journey  of 
several  hundred  miles  with  dog-sleds,  bringing  about  five  hundred 
marten  or  American  sable  skins. 

The  Russians  throughout  this  territory  compute  their  time 
according  to  Old  Style,  and  hence  are  always  eleven  days  behind 
time.  They  celebrated  Christmas  and  New-Year's  day  on  the  5th 
and  1 2th  of  January,  respectively. 

Dyer  arrived  on  the  3d,  and  on  the  5th  Captain  Ketchum 
started  on  a  last  visit  to  the  Redoubt. 

Strong  endeavors  were  made  to  construct  some  sleds  for 
Ketchum's  trip,  after  the  style  of  the  Hudson  Bay  Company  ;  but, 
having  no  patterns,  much  good  birch  was  spoiled  without  satis- 
factory results. 

We  had  entertained  great  expectations  of  seeing  exhibitions 
of  the  Aurora  Borealis  of  unusual  beauty  ;  but  they  were  not 
realized.  The  few  displays  which  were  observed  were  of  an 
insignificant  character.  No  colored  lights  were  noticed,  and  the 
brilliancy  of  the  light  was  far  below  what  we  had  anticipated. 
Several  of  these  displays,  however,  presented  phenomena  which 
may  not  be  uninteresting  to  the  general  reader,  as  showing  dis- 
tinctly some  points  not  previously  established  in  regard  to  the 
mode  of  appearance  of  the  aurora  under  some  circumstances. 
February  nth,  1867,  an  aurora  was  observed  under  the  following 
conditions.  From  a  gap  in  the  hills  north  of  Nulato,  a  white 
light  was   seen  to  issue,   early  in  the  evening.     The   sky   was 


fi  r 


f 


90 


THE  YUKON   TERRITORY. 


'M! 


,  I 


much  overcast  with  cirro-stratus  clouds,  which  were  rapidly  pass- 
ing in  a  different  direction  from  the  wind  at  the  surface  of 
the  earth,  which  last  was  from  the  north.  The  light  before  alluded 
to  approached  with  the  wind,  at  about  half  the  pace  of  the  wind, 
m  a  cloudlike  shape  or  condition,  not  far  from  the  surface  of  the 
earth.  The  form  of  this  luminous  cloud  was  in  successive  waves, 
or  ripples,  and  resembled  the  rings  of  smoke  rising  from  a  pipe, 
one  within  another,  gradually  expanding.  The  inner  or  focal 
rings  were  more  intense  than  the  outer  ones,  and  the  light  was 
more  intense  in  some  parts  of  the  rings  than  in  others.  They 
advanced  as  the  ripples  do  when  a  stone  is  thrown  into  still 
water,  and  these  ripples  were  compressed  in  an  -oval  form  by 
the  wind,  the  longer  diameter  being  east  and  west,  across  the 
current.  It  showed  unmistakably  that  the  shining  medium  was  in 
consistence  similar  to  cloud  or  mist.  From  the  brighter  portions 
of  the  rings,  light  streams  of  the  same  medium  occasionally 
dripped,  and  dissipated  at  some  distance  below  the  point  whence 
they  originated  ;  from  which  it  might  be  inferred  that  the  r^ore 
intense  portion  of  this  medium  was  denser  than  the  atmosphere. 
No  rays  or  streamers  issued  upwards  from  the  upper  edges  of 
the  rings,  which  were  clearly  defined  and  below  the  real  clouds,  of 
which  the  altitude  seemed  less  than  fifteen  hundred  feet.  The 
hills  from  between  which  the  auroral  cloud  had  issued,  and  the 
tops  of  the  higher  trees  between  the  fort  and  the  hills,  were 
dimly  seen,  or  obscured  by  the  lower  portion  of  the  haze,  or  cloud, 
which  seemed  not  more  than  a  hundred  feet  above  the  earth,  as 
seen  from  the  roof  of  the  higher  building.  It  followed  the  air- 
currents  entirely;  and  all  its  motions  seemed  guided  or  controlled 
by  them.  Wavy  outlines  in  the  ripples  seemed  caused  by  the  dif- 
fering velocity  of  the  air  in  different  parts  of  the  current.  It  cov- 
ered the  whole  sky  in  about  two  hours  from  the  time  of  its  first 
appearance.  As  it  spread  and  enlarged,  the  light  became  fainter. 
It  did  not  give  out  a  positive  light,  but  had  a  mildly  luminous 
appearance,  like  phosphorescence.* 

Captain  Ketchum  and  Mike  had  returned  February  ist,  bring- 
mg  with   them  Captain   Everett  Smith,   of  the  Wilder,  and  a 

*  These  remarkable  phenomena  were  observed,  in  a  greater  or  lesser  degree,  in 
several  instances,  of  which  an  account  was  communicated  to  the  National  Academy, 
at  its  session  in  September,  1869,  by  the  writer. 


THE   YUKON    TERRITORY. 


6l 


good  budget  of  news.  Several  miles  of  poles  had  been  erected 
in  the  vicinity  of  Grantley  Harbor  and  Unalakli'k.  Provisions, 
especially  tea  and  sugar,  were  at  a  high  premium.  Our  sup- 
ply of  tea  had  been  very  small,  and  coffee  in  this  climate  is 
worthless. 

A  point  near  the  Klatkakhatnc  River  was  decided  upon  for  the 
location  of  the  head-quarters  of  the  Yukon  division,  and  a  bargain 
was  made  with  Paspi'lkoff,  the  shaky-headed  Russian,  to  put  up 
the  building,  which  was  to  be  of  logs. 

I  prepared  the  specimens  of  natural  history  which  had  been 
obtained  during  the  winter,  for  transportation  to  UnalakHk  and 
the  Redoubt.  They  filled  two  large  boxes,  many  acceptable  ad- 
ditions having  been  made  through  the  kindness  of  my  compan- 
ions. 

A  walk  with  Captain  Smith,  near  the  fort,  resulted  in  obtaining 
a  fine  specimen  of  the  Hudson  Bay  titmouse  {Pnriis  Hiidsonicus), 
a  bird  which  I  had  not  previously  collected,  and  the  first  specimen 
of  which  I  owe,  with  many  other  valuable  birds,  to  his  quick  eye 
and  unerring  aim. 

About  this  time  a  little  excitement  occurred,  owing  to  a  rumor, 
started  by  one  of  the  Indian  women  in  the  fort,  to  the  effect  that 
Larridvvn  had  planned  the  destruction  of  one  of  the  proposed 
parties  which  were  to  ascend  the  Yukon.  A  council  of  inquiry 
proved,  however,  that  the  rumor  had  no  more  reliable  foundation 
than  a  dream. 

The  Indians  are  exceedingly  suspicious  in  the  most  unimportant 
things,  and  the  following  incident  is  a  good  illustration  of  it.  In 
talking  over  the  scarcity  of  provisions,  some  one  had  jokingly 
remarked,  that,  if  we  were  driven  to  the  wall,  we  should  have  to 
make  soup  of  Paspflkoff's  baby,  a  new  addition  to  our  population. 
This  was  repeated  by  one  of  the  women,  and  very  soon  old  Ivan 
the  interpreter  made  his  appearance,  saying  that  the  Indians 
wished  to  know  if  we  were  cannibals.  He  added  that,  since  the 
time  of  Biilegin's  murder  at  Koyukuk,  there  was  no  instance 
known  where  the  Indians  had  eaten  human  flesh.  After  indulg- 
ing in  a  hearty  laugh,  we  relieved  his  apprehensions,  which  seemed 
to  be  serious,  and  thereafter  were  more  guarded  in  our  remarks. 

Peetka,  his  son,  had  been  very  active  in  procuring  birds  for 
my  collection,  and  much  to  my  regret  appeared  one  day  with 


\    ^1 


'^1       I 

1 4; 


:u 


I       ;■(.■[■ 

fill 


62 


THE  YUKON   TERRITORY. 


three  fingcrr.  of  his  left  hand  nearly  blown  off,  by  carelessly  pull- 
ing his  gun  through  the  bushes  by  the  muzzle.  The  injury  was 
so  serious  that  amputation  seemed  necessary,  but  by  careful  ap- 
plication of  water  dirissings  twice  daily,  I  was  enabled  to  preserve 
them,  though  in  a  si'ff  and  useless  condition.  Sometime  after, 
the  little  fellow  brought  me  in  a  marten,  one  of  his  own  trapping, 
the  only  fee  for  medical  spr\'ices  I  received  in  Russian  America 
during  two  years'  practice. 

The  details  of  our  Yukon  trip  were  settled,  and  the  boatmen 
engaged,  so  that  we  felt  a  reasonable  confidence  in  the  suc- 
cessful result  of  our  proposed  explorations.  In  the  mean  time  I 
occupied  myself  taking  angles  and  measurements  for  a  chart  of 
the  Yukon  and  the  small  rivers  near  Nuk'ito,  in  the  constant  ad- 
dition of  specimens  to  the  collection,  with  the  meteorological  rec- 
ords, and  the  enlargement  of  my  vocabularies. 

One  of  the  Russians  took  occasion  one  evening  to  express  his 
dislike  of  the  Americans  by  beating  and  abusing,  without  cause, 
a  boy  in  our  employ  called  Antoshka.  Without  recourse  to  the 
bidarshik,  Ketchum  treated  him  to  his  deserts,  —  a  well  merited 
thrashing.  This  timely  protection  to  our  Indian  servants  much 
increased  our  popularity  among  the  Indians,  and  enforced  re- 
spect from  the  Russian  convicts  employed  by  the  Russian  Ameri- 
can Company,  in  a  salutary  manner. 

Breaking  the  minute-hand  of  my  watch  one  day,  I  repaired  the 
damage  by  uuvvinding  the  silver  tliread  from  a  violin-string  and 
twisting  a  portion  of  it  around  the  barrel  of  the  broken  hand. 
Opportunities  for  the  exercise  of  ingenuity  of  this  kind  are  fre- 
quent in  this  country,  where  few  mechanics  of  any  kind  are  to 
be  found.  The  remarkable  facility  with  which  the  Russian  peas- 
ant can  turn  his  hand  to  anything  was  well  exemplified  among 
the  men  in  the  fort.  All  of  them,  with  the  ta/>(>r,  or  short-handled 
Russian  broad-axe,  could  accomplish  almost  any  piece  of  carpen- 
tering, from  squaring  a  log  to  building  a  boat  or  a  house.  Many 
of  them  could  handle  blacksmiths'  tools,  and  even  manufacture, 
from  sheet  copper  (provided  by  the  Russian  Company),  chy- 
niks,  kettles,  and  lamps  for  burning  the  seal  oil  used  in  winter. 
There  are  several  good  blacksmiths  in  the  country,  and  Aleuts, 
Creoles,  and  even  Indians  learn  the  use  of  their  tools  with  re- 
markable ease. 


THE   YUKON   TERRITORY. 


63 


•elessly  pull- 
injury  was 
^  careful  ap- 
to  preserve 
ictinie  after, 
vn  trapping, 
in  America 

he  boatmen 
in  tlic  suc- 
nean  time  I 
r  a  chart  of 
:onstant  ad- 
ological  rec- 

cxprcss  his 
thout  cause, 
Durse  to  the 
veil  merited 
vants  much 
enforced  re- 
sian  Ameri- 

"epaired  the 

i-string  and 

okcn  hand. 

nd  ate  fre- 

vind  are  to 

ssian  peas- 

fied  among 

ort-handled 

of  carpen- 

ise.     Many 

anufacture, 

any),  chy- 

in  winter. 

nd  Aleuts, 

s  with  re- 


On  the  6th  of  March  the  plans  for  our  proposed  new  station 
were  decided  upon,  and  the  exact  location  selected.  The  en- 
closure was  to  be  one  hundred  feet  by  sixty-five,  and  to  con- 
tain a  barrack,  officers'  quarters,  bath-house,  cook-house,  and 
several  store-houses.  Paspi'lkoff  promised  to  set  about  the  work 
at  once,  and  it  was  agreed  that  the  members  of  the  party  would 
assist  him  in  bringing  and  raising  the  heavy  timbers. 

On  the  nth  of  March,  having  completed  his  preparations,  Cap- 
tain Ketchum  set  out  on  his  adventurous  journey  with  Mike  over 
the  ice  to  Fort  Yukon.  It  was  undertaken  under  the  most  dis- 
couraging circumstances.  Neither  his  provisions  nor  hi-  dog- 
focd  were  sufficient  to  last  during  the  journey  of  over  six  hun- 
dred miles.  Russians  and  Indians  alike  shook  their  heads  and 
declared  their  disbelief  in  his  prospects  of  success.  The  snow 
would  be  soft  and  impassable.  The  dogs  would  run  away,  or 
<;ive  out  for  want  of  food,  and  die.  He  could  mt  feed  himself 
or  his  Indians,  and  all  would  perish  of  starvation.  The  Uliikuk 
Indians  who  had  engaged  to  go  backed  out  at  the  last  mo- 
ment, and  there  was  extreme  difficulty  in  obtaining  two  men  and 
two  boys  to  take  their  place.  This  was  finally  done  through 
the  intervention  of  old  Ivan,  who  sent  his  own  son  Peetka,  and 
induced  the  others  to  go.  The  very  day  was  dull  and  cloudy, 
with  indications  of  snow.  For  two  white  men  to  undertake  such 
a  journey,  in  the  face  of  all  this  discouragement,  through  a  coun- 
try of  which  the  resources  were  known  to  be  very  precarious, 
with  the  prospect  of  certain  st  irvation  if  their  guns  did  not  sup- 
ply them  with  sufficient  g  .uc  to  ic^iS  he  dogs  and  i»irty,  was 
resolute  and  courageous  in  the  extreme.  From  this  point  of  view 
Mie  journey  was  unquestionabW  one  of  the  most  'emarkable 
undertaken  by  modern  explorers. 

As  their  heavily  laden  sleds  moved  slowly  away  over  the  soft 
snow,  we  hoisted  the  stars  and  stripes,  gave  them  three  volleys 
from  the  big  gun,  a  liearty  cheer,  and  any  number  of  salutes  from 
guns  and  pistols.  As  tho)  passed  out  of  sight,  the  chances  of 
success  and  failure  seemed  so  unevenly  balanced  that  we  liardly 
dared  .)  anticipate  the  realization  of  the  plans  which  they  were 
so  bravely  and  energetically  endeavoring  to  carry  out. 

Our  party  now  consisted  only  of  Messrs.  Dyer,  Whymper,  and 
myself,  with  Scratchett  the  constructor,  and  two  Indians. 


f!    : 


J|iPf.W-il|l*HP***"  '■'»•  «^pa^qpmiB|pq^^« 


64 


THE   YUKON   TERRITORY. 


vl 


i:7 


On  the  1 8th  our  eyes  were  gladdened  by  tlie  appearance  of  old 
Yagorsha,  with  the  little  skin  boat,  purchased  at  Uliikuk  last  fall, 
for  which  he  had  been  sent.  It  came  up  from  Ulukuk  entire,  on 
a  sled  drawn  by  five  dogs,  and  had  sustanied  some  slight  injuries. 
In  this  boat,  Mr.  Whymper  and  myself  were  to  ascend  the  Yu- 
kon after  the  .spring  freshet.  Antoshka  and  another  Indian  were 
sent  by  Dyer  down  the  Yukon  to  a  place  called  Yaknts-kaldtciiik, 
where  a  three-holed  bidarka  was  supposed  to  lie,  which  he  pro- 
posed to  use  in  descending  the  Yukon  and  pursuing  his  examina- 
tion of  the  delta. 

We  determined,  although  it  was  not  strictly  in  the  line  of 
our  duty,  to  cut  and  erect  the  poles  necessary  to  bear  the  line  ])e- 
tween  the  Nukito  post  and  the  proposed  site  of  our  new  Fort 
Kennicott.  The  distance  was  a  few  rods  over  a  mile,  and  re- 
quired about  thirty  poles.  The  work  was  done  entirely  by  the 
four  members  of  our  party,  except  clearing  away  the  brush  and 
trees  for  twelve  feet  on  each  side,  which  we  intrusted  to  one  of 
the  Russian  workmen. 

Dog-feed  and  fresh  provisions  giving  out,  I  proposed  to  make 
a  trip  to  the  Kaiyuh  villages,  and  endeavor  tc  purchase  any  sup- 
plies which  the  Indians  might  be  able  to  spare.  I  arrived  with 
Kuri'lla  and  the  dogs  at  a  small  village  of  two  houses,  on  the  left 
bank  of  the  river,  nearly  opposite  Alikoff's  barrabora,  and  being 
the  residence  of  the  old  veteran  Wolasatu.x.  The  village  is  known 
by  his  name.  I  fouml  all  the  Indians  away,  and  was  obliged  to 
take  some  fish  out  of  his  cache  to  feed  the  dogs  with. 

Wolasatu.x'  barrabora  is  a  well  built  Indian  winter  house,  and 
stantis  near  another  smaller  one,  with  two  or  three  caches  about 
it,  or  a  small  clearing  in  a  dense  growth  of  poplars  and  willows. 
These  trees  grow  so  close  together,  that  they  have  reached  the 
height  of  some  thirty  or  forty  feet,  almost  without  branches,  and 
so  slender  that  it  gives  one  a  feeling  as  of  standing  on  a  Hat  pin- 
cushion beset  with  enormous  needles  and  pins.  An  old  man 
finally  appeared,  who  sold  us  a  few  ukali  and  some  grouse.  The 
next  morning,  Kurilla  went  out,  and  in  the  course  of  his  hunting 
met  some  Indians,  who  informed  him  that  Antoshka  had  not  been 
able  to  obtain  any  dog -feed  here  or  at  Kaltag,  and  that  it  n-as  not 
improbable  his  dogs  might  be  starving.  Also,  that  all  the  Indians 
were  awav  after  deer,  and  that  it  was  uncertain  when  they  would 


THE   YUKON   TERRITORY. 


65 


irance  of  old 
kuk  last  fall, 
uk  entire,  on 
ight  injuries. 
:encl  the  Yu- 
Indian  were 
uts-kaldtciiik, 
vhich  he  pro- 
his  cxamina- 

thc  line  of 
r  the  line  be- 
)ur  new  Fort 
mile,  and  rc- 
itirely  by  the 
lie  brush  and 
ted  to  one  of 

:)osed  to  make 
base  any  sup- 
I  arrived  with 
es,  on  the  left 
ra,  and  bein.i; 
lagc  is  known  | 
Ivas  obli;;cd  to   r 


return.  This  determined  me  to  return  to  Nulato,  so  that  Dyer 
might  send  some  fish  from  our  slender  store  to  Antoshka,  and 
thus  prevent  his  journey  from  coming  to  an  unfortunate  con- 
clusion. There  was  no  prospect  of  buying  anything  where  we 
were. 

The  next  morning  we  set  out  for  Nulato,  and  found  that  the 
moist  snow  rendered  the  travelling  very  hard.  The  weather  was 
so  warm  that  the  snow  adhered  in  large  lumps  to  the  snowshoes, 
aJding  a  weight  of  ten  or  twelve  pounds  to  the  foot  at  each  step, 


,^^-..tsS 


Wolasatux'  b.irrabcira  in  wiiittr. 

until  the  masses  would  break  off  by  tlieir  own  weight,  the  same 
process  being  repeated  indefinitely.  VVc  were  exceedingly  fa- 
tigued upon   our  arrival,    near  dusk. 

It  was  immediately  letermincd  to  send  Scratchctt  down  to 
Kahag  with  some  fish  for  Antoshka.  Our  pr<»spccts  of  food  at 
this  time  were  anything  but  encouraging.  Wherever  the  bhune 
should  have  fallen,  th^^  fact  remained,  that  if  it  iiad  not  been  for 
the  flour  and  fish  we  obtained  from  the  Russians,  we  should  have 
been  in  a  starving  condition  ;  while  it  was  said,  and  never  denied, 
•so  far  as  I  know,  that  the  Nightingale,  on  her  return,  carried  with 


66 


THE   YUKON    TERRITORY. 


'1 


11 


'    : 


mi 


BSiIlS! 


iii 


U  ;  I 


<\t 


her  ten  thousand  rations.  The  preposterous  folly  of  issuing  food 
by  ordinary  rations  to  men  in  an  a  "ctic,  or  nearly  arctic  climate, 
was  never  more  fully  demonstrated.  On  the  resources  of  the 
country  as  developed  by  the  natives,  who  have  all  they  can  do  to 
feed  themselves,  a  large  body  of  men  cannot  support  themselves 
in  this  part  of  the  territory,  unless  their  time  be  devoted  to  noth- 
ing else. 

On  tlie  8th  of  April,  .Scratchctt  returned  with  a  load  of  fresh 
reindeer  meat,  which  he  liad  obtained  from  ihe  Indians,  a  number 
of  whom  accompanied  him.  Among  them  was  Wolasatux  and 
his  foster-son  Mikaishka,  and  Tekunka,  a  noted  shaman  and 
tyone  among  the  Kaiyuh  Indians.  The  latter  proved  to  be  a 
very  good  kind  of  fellow  ;  he  sold  us  a  large  amount  of  meat, 
refusing  the  offers  of  the  Russians,  who  saw  his  slcd-load  taken 
into  our  store-house  with  unconcealed  disgust.  The  day  had 
gone  by  when  they  could  control  the  trade  of  that  kind,  and  force 
the  reluctant  Indian  to  sell  against  his  will  his  hard-earned  booty 
for  a  leaf  or  two  of  tobacco  and  a  few  balls. 

We  paid  liberally,  but  not  extravagantly,  for  provisions  of  all 
kinds,  and  as  the  supply  was  very  limited,  the  Russians,  un- 
willing to  raise  their  tariff  of  prices,  were  often  obliged  to  go 
without. 

The  continued  warm  weather  was  melting  the  snow  rapidly, 
and  although  we  had  cleaned  off  the  roof  as  much  as  possible, 
still  the  melting  ice  caused  a  constant  dripping  during  the  day. 
The  ev(^ning  frost  would  put  an  end  to  it  for  a  while,  but  it 
returned  with  the  heat  of  the  morning  sun. 

The  Nulato  and  other  small  rivers  had  felt  the  elfects  of 
the  melting  snow,  and  the  ice  on  the  edge  of  the  Yukon,  which 
rests  on  and  is  frozen  to  the  beach,  was  covered  with  water  from 
them. 

Mies,  to  all  appearance  the  common  universal  house-fly,  as  well 
as  the  bluebottle,  had  appeared  in  large  numbers,  and  might  be 
seen  on  the  sunny  side  of  every  wall. 

On  the  loth  I  found  the  first  fully  expanded  willow  catkinr,, 
and  the  pretty  red  catkin  of  the  alder.  A  white-winged  crossbill 
the  first  so  far  obtained,  was  shot  in  a  grove  of  poplars  not  far 
from  the  post. 

On  the  roof  of  the  house  I  obtained  a  large  number  of  sm^ 


•1 


i 


THE   YUKON    TERRITORY. 


67 


r  issuing  food 
irctic  climate, 
ources  of  the 
:hey  can  do  to 
,rt  themselves 
looted  to  noth- 

,  load  of  fresh 
ians,  a  number 
A'olasatux  and 
I   shaman   and 
iroved  to  be  a 
lount  of  meat, 
^led-load  taken 
The   day  had 
kind,  and  force 
rd-earned  booty 

)rovisions  of  all 
:  Russians,  un- 
1  obliged  to  go 

e  snow  ra\>idly, 

.ich  as  possible, 

hiring  the  day. 

a  while,  but  it 

the   eflects  of 
0  Yukon,  which 
Iwith  water  from 

kouse-fiy,  as  well 
[•s,  and  might  be 

willow  catkins,  | 
vinged  crossbill  | 
poplars  not  far 

Lumber  of  small 


musk-beetles,  of  a  steel-green  color  and  strong  odor.  Several 
other  species  were  obtained  from  the  stumps  and  mossy  hillocks 
which  began  to  project  above  the  level  of  the  snow.  The  field- 
mice  were  also  beginning  to  be  active,  and  the  children  about  the 
for*"  eagerly  scanned  with  their  keen  eyes,  bow  and  arrow  in  band, 
the  various  stumps  and  crevices  where  they  might  find  them ; 
when  successful  they  flocked  with  their  prizes  to  me,  sure  of  a 
few  beads  or  some  other  trinket  to  repay  them  for  their  labor. 

The  white  i)tarmigan  began  moulting,  or  rather  brown  feathers 
began  to  appear  in  their  necks  and  on  the  edges  of  the  wings, 
wheie  the  first  change  may  be  looked  for. 

While  skinning  a  hawk-owl  I  discovered  in  the  ovary  an  egg, 
nearly  perfect.  Kuri'lla,  on  his  return  from  a  foragirg  expedition, 
brought  fine  specimens  of  the  great  gray  owl  [Syrniiim  cincirum), 
which  measured  four  feet  across  the  wings,  and  the  white  owl 
{Nyctca  nivca).  The  latter  frequently  flies  by  day  without  diffi- 
culty, and  he  is  a  sharp  hunter  who  can  approach  it  within  gun- 
shot, even  at  midday. 

April  23d  being  a  good  snowy  day,  I  took  advantage  of  the 
opportunity,  to  visit  a  grave  on  the  point,  near  the  Nulato  River. 
Carefully  lifting  the  cover,  I  removed  the  cranium,  and  putting 
it  into  my  haversack,  I  returned  by  a  roundabout  way  to  the 
fort.  I  had  long  had  my  eye  upon  this  grave,  and  had  been 
waiting  for  weather  which  would  cover  up  my  tracks,  in  order 
to  secure  the  skull.  The  Indians  are  very  superstitious  in  regard 
to  touching  anything  that  has  belonged  with  a  dead  body,  and 
would  have  been  highly  incensed  had  it  become  known.  There- 
fore T  took  the  first  opportunity  of  packing  safely  away  the  only 
Ingalik  cranium  ever  collected. 

An  expedition  to  the  bluffs  above  Nulato  resulted  in  my  obtain- 
ing a  number  of  fossils,  which  probably  indicate  a  Miocene  age 
for  these  beds.  There  are  very  few  and  very  poor  fossils  in 
these  sandstones,  notwithstanding  their  wide  euent  and  great 
thickness. 

Birds  became  more  plentiful  as  spring  advanced,  many  sum- 
mer visitors  arriving  in  April  and  the  earh  part  of  May.  The 
hawks  and  owls  were  already  laying  their  eggs,  and  the  young 
of  the  Canada  jay,  as  I  afterwards  learned,  were  already  hatched. 
Scratchett  started  for  Unalakli'k  April  25th,  with  the  last  mails, 


Hi 


I 


'1 

I 


it 


n 


!  I 


ip 


i 

( 


68 


THE   YUKON   TERRITORY. 


and  on  the  last  trip  possiljle  this  season.  The  Russians  prophe- 
sied that  he  woukl  not  be  able  to  get  through,  and  the  weather 
gave  some  probability  to  their  croakings. 

The  25tb  of  April  was  a  great  holiday,  or  prdsnik,  of  the  Rus- 
sians. It  was  their  Easter,  and  was  a  day  of  rejoicing  for  us 
also,  as  Ant(')shka  returned  from  a  foraging  expedition  on  the 
Kdiyuh  River  with  a  good  load  of  deer  meat  from  Tekunka. 
Out  of  our  plenty  we  sent  a  haunch  in  to  Ivan  Tavlofl",  to  his 
great  satisfaction. 

The  walls  of  Fort  Kennicott  already  begnr.  to  assume  their 
proportions,  and  we  frecpiently  went  up  li)  assist  Paspi'lkoff  in  the 
work  of  raising  the  loj^s  to  their  proper  places. 

On  thj  ..'Sth  old  Maria  died.  She  was  an  Indian  woman, 
long  domiciled  with  the  Russians,  and  had  been  present  at  the 
Nuhito  massacre. 

On  the  following  day  the  first  goose  was  seen,  the  solitary 
advance-guard  of  the  thousands  to  come.  Strolling  on  the 
beach,  I  obtained  a  :imall  hawk  and  the  first  snipe  of  the  season. 
The  weather  had  become  exceedingly  warm.  Shirt-sleeves  were 
the  rule,  and  the  little  children  enjoyed  themselves  on  the  broad 
river-beach,  building  houses  with  pel)bles  and  making  mud  jiies, 
much  as  their  brothers  and  sisters  do  all  over  the  world  when 
a  vacation  or  a  holiday  releases  them  from  restraint  and  the 
mother's  watchful  eye.  I  never  saw  a  young  child  punished  in 
Russian  America,  c-xcept  the  well-^rown  boys  of  the  Russian 
bidarshik.  They  behave  quite  as  well  as  civilized  children,  and 
grow  up  with  quite  as  much  respect  for  their  parents.  An 
Indian  baby,  unless  sick,  never  cries;  and  why  should  it .''  It  has 
no  one  to  rub  soa|)  in  its  eyes,  and  never  feels  the  weight  of  the 
parental  hand.  The  mother  makes  it  a  doll,  if  a  girl,  out  of  bits 
of  sc|uirrel-skin  and  fur.  If  a  boy,  the  father  builds  for  him  a 
little  sable-lrap,  a  miniature  cache,  in  which  to  put  his  shinitig 
pebbles  and  other  childish  treasures,  or  a  tiny  fish-trap,  in  wliich 
the  mother  takes  care  that  a  choice  bit  of  uknli.  a  rabbit's  head,  or 
a  piece  of  reindeer  fat  shall  be  caught  in  some  mysterious  way. 
As  soon  as  they  can  toddle  about  they  are  instructed  in  the 
mysteries  of  setting  snares,  and  the  pride  with  which  the  boys  or 
girls  bring  home  their  first  grouse,  or  even,  by  great  good  luck,  an 
unfortunate  rabbit,  is  fully  shared  by  the  parents.     Their  dresses 


THE   YUKON   TERRITORY. 


69 


he  weather 


arc  ornamented  with  the  ehoicest  beads  ;  the  sweet  marrow  or 
tongue  of  the  fallen  reindeer  is  reserved  for  them  by  the  father 
successful  in  the  chase.  They  travel  hundreds  of  miles  with  the 
ciog-sleds,  and  from  these  little  children  I  have  o(U:n  obtained 
dozens  of  mice  or  small  birds,  canj^iit  near  some  solitary  lodge 
far  away  among  the  mountains,  which  rumor  had  informed  them 
I  would  jnu'chase  with  beads  or  trinkets,  i'hcy  carried  these 
proudly  home  again  as  tlnir  own  earnings  and  the  prize  of  their 
own  industry.  I  always  paid  something  for  such  specimens,  even 
if  (juite  worthless,  to  encourage  them  to  perseverance,  and  in 
tliis  way   I  obtained  many  invaluable  specimens. 

Scratchett  arrived  from  Unalakh'k  on  the  4th  of  May,  having 
li;td  a  very  hard  journey,  and  getting  up  to  his  neck  in  water 
while  crossing  some  of  liie  small  rivers,  swelled  witii  the  melting 
snow.  The  scurvy  had  attacked  the  parties  at  Unalakh'k,  from 
the  absence  of  fresh  provisions,  but  was  fortunately  stayed  in  its 
progress  by  the  providential  advent  on  the  L^nalaklik  plains  of 
large  herds  of  deer,  of  which  mrny  were  killed. 

On  the  3d,  Kurdla  killed  a  goose,  a  white-cheeked  brant  (/'. 
Icucopardn),  and  two  ducks, — a  mallard  and  a  (iolden-eye.  He 
received  the  annual  pound  of  tobacco,  the  pcr()uisit'.'  of  him 
who  kills  the  first  goose  in  the  spring.  I'rom  thi>  time  we 
hoped  to  obtain  an  .d)undance  of  water-fowl,  which  are  the  only 
support  of  the  inhabitants  of  Nulato  until  the  freshets  subside 
and  the  salmon  begin  to  ascend  the  river.  Curiously  enough, 
there  are  no  fish  in  lliese  rivers  which  will  take  die  hook. 

On  the  7th  of  May  the  first  swans  were  sc:c:n.  They  are  the 
small  American  species,  the  trumpeter  not  being  found  in  this 
region,  and  very  rarely  visiting  Fort  Yukon.  The  geese  did  not 
arrive  in  large  numbers  until  the  9th  of  May.  trn  days  later  than 
oti  the  previous  year.  The  commonest  ducks  were  the  pin-tail 
and  the  green-winged  teal. 

On  the  1 2th  of  May  the  water  came  down  with  a  rush,  break- 
ing up  the  ice  on  the  Nulato  River,  and  Hooding  the  ice  on  the 
\''akon.  At  the  same  time  a  torrent  ]ioured  down  the  Klat- 
kakhatne  River.  Ivan  IVivlolf,  having  gone  shooting  over  to  the 
island,  on  his  return  was  caught  between  the  two  currents  and 
swept  into  a  hole  in  the  ice.  Paspilkoff  gave  the  alarm,  and, 
catching  up  two  paddles,  T  hurried  to  the  beach,  where  Scratchett 


ill 


70 


THE   YUKON   TERRITORY. 


had  already  launched  a  birch  canoe.  With  Ant(Sshka,  he  rapidly 
made  his  way  among  the  fragments  which  threatened  to  crush 
the  frail  boat,  and  succeeded  in  extri';atinf;  the  Russian  in  safely. 
To  his  credit  be  it  said,  the  act  was  very  handsomely  done.  The 
Russians  were  shouting  and  running  wildly  about,  like  chickens 
when  a  hawk  is  preparing  for  a  swoop,  and  were  not  of  the  slight- 
est assistance. 

A  year  before,  the  ice  having  broken  up,  a  convict  named 
Tarentoff  had  been  to  the  island  in  a  birch-bark  canoe.  Retr ru- 
ing, he  was  nipped  between  the  ice-cakes  and  was  sinking,  when 
Major  Kennicott  saw  him  from  his  seat  on  the  roof  of  the  fort, 
and  hurried  two  men  to  his  assistance,  unquestionably  saving  his 
life.  When  the  Russian  had  changed  his  clothes,  he  came  with 
protestations  of  gratitude  to  his  preserver,  who  answered,  "  Do  not 
thank  mc,  Tarentoff;  thank  (iod."  The  ne.xt  day,  while  walking 
in  the  early  morning  on  the  beach  near  the  fort,  taking  the  angles 
of  the  mountains  for  his  proposed  map,  and  with  thoughts  per- 
haps intent  on  the  long  anticipated  journey,  then  only  awaiting 
the  disappearance  of  the  floating  ice,  the  Major  was  called  to  his 
eternal  home  !  Ills  remains  were  found  where  he  fell;  struck 
down  by  disease  of  the  heart,  aggravated  by  exposure,  privation, 
and  anxiety.  On  the  sad  anniversary  of  his  death  we  erected,  on 
the  nearest  hillock  not  swept  by  the  spring  freshets,  a  cross,  which 
was  hewn  out  by  the  blacksmith  Taspilkoff,  and  which  upheld  a 
tablet  with  the  following  in.scription  :  — 

In  Mkmokv  ok 

RonickT  KENN'icorr, 

NATURAI.Isr, 

who  liicil  near  this  place. 
May  \^t/i,  1866,  ai^ed  thirty. 

On  asking  PaspHkoff  what  he  wanted  for  his  labor  in  hewing 
out  the  arms  of  the  cross,  he  replied,  "We  Russians  take  nothing 
for  what  we  may  do  for  the  dead  ;  we  do  not  know  when  it  may 
be  our  turn." 

On  the  12th  of  May  the  mosquitoes  made  their  appearance, 
though  the  snow  still  lay  on  the  ground  in  abundance.  They 
were  larger  than  our  home  moscpiitoes,  and  V'  ry  bloodthirsty. 
After  a  few  days  it  was  impossible  to  sleep  without  a  net. 


THE   YUKON    TKRRITOUY. 


71 


tak'j  nothing 
when  it  may 


We  had  abundance  to  do,  gcttin^j  our  bidarnl  in  onh-T  for  the 
journey,  and  packinj;  our  stores  into  the  smallest  possible  space, 
knowing  by  experience  that  every  ounce  counted.  Collecting 
was  not  neglected  ;  and  many  specimens  of  birds  were  obtained 
which  are  only  summer  visitors.  A  walk  to  the  blufl'  above  the 
Klatkakhatne  River  was  rewarded  by  the  discovery  of  a  few  more 
fossils,  and  some  very  minute  land-shells,  similar  to,  if  not  identi- 
cal with,  r^'istcrn  American  and  Northern  European  s])ecies. 

I  had  at  this  time  a  good  op|)ott unity  of  observing  the  forma- 
tion of  the  alluvial  soil  of  the  islands  and  baidvs  of  the  Yukon. 
Two  or  three  feet  below  the  surface,  the  ground  is  frozen,  and 
probably  always  continues  so,  as  therj  are  no  roots  of  living  trees 
below  that  depth.  The  soil  is  composed  of  distinct  layers,  each 
layer  consisting  of  a  stratum  of  sand,  overlaid  by  mud,  and 
covered  with  a  thin  sheet  of  vegetable  matter.  These  layers 
evidently  mark  the  annual  inundat  ons,  the  materials  brought 
down  settling  according  to  their  specific  gravity.  They  varied 
in  thickness  from  half  an  inch  to  three  inches,  but  averaged  about 
about  an  inch.  I  counted  one  hundred  and  eighty  of  them  in 
one  bank,  exposed  by  the  undermining  and  washing  away  of  the 
soil  by  the  river,  leaving  a  perpendicular  bank  about  ten  feet 
high.  This  action  of  deposition  and  denudation  is  constantly 
going  on  ;  and  so  great  is  the  amount  cairied  out  to  sea  by  the 
Yukon  water,  that  the  water  of  Bering  .Sea  is  discolored  by  it 
for  many  miles,  even  (piite  out  of  sight  of  [hv.  land. 

Occasionally  the  roots  and  stumps  of  trt-cs  might  be  seen 
exposed,  in  their  natural  position,  but  deep  below  the  surface. 
These  had  evidently  been  broken  off  in  some  ancient  Hood,  and 
fmally  buried  under  new  deposits  of  alluvium.  I  even  thought 
I  detected,  in  the  lower  and  older  layers,  indications  of  carbon- 
ization, or  transformation  into  a  kind  of  lignite,  among  the  strata 
ofvtigetable  mattiM". 

The  Russians  had  already  put  their  large  bidarr.'i  in  order, 
and,  looking  with  contempt  upon  oiii'  little  boat,  which  was 
J^haped  like  a  dory,  about  (ifleen  feel  long  and  four  and  a  half 
wide,  asserted  that  we  could  not  keep  up  with  them  ;  that  it  was 
impossible  to  row  such  a  bag-shaped  contrivance  against  the 
rapid  river  current  ;  that  it  would  not  bear  a  sail  as  large  as  the 
one  we  had  had    made  ;  and,  fmally,  that,   with   such  a  boat,  it 


ji 

Jl 
If  I 

n 


iH  ! 


7t 


THE   YUKON   TERRITORY. 


was  useless  to  attempt  ascending  the  river,  for  we  should  cer- 
tainly fail.  Wc  did  not  fail  to  appreciate  the  consideration  for 
our  weakness  and  inexperience,  which  was  indicated  by  such 
comments  ;  and  it  but  strengthened  our  determination  to  reach 
Fort  Yukon  at  all  hazards,  even  if  the  boat  had  to  be  replaced  by 
a  raft. 

We  had  provided  a  mast,  and  Kurdla  exercised  his  taste  and 
ingenuity  in  carving  an  arrow,  with  a  broad  tail  to  which  some 
blue  cotton  was  attached,  to  serve  as  a  fly.  The  square  sail  was 
composed  of  stout  linen  towelling,  purchased  of  the  Russians  ; 
and  we  were  provided  with  an  A-tent,  and  a  large  piece  of 
drill,  with  which  our  Indians  might  make  a  tent  for  their  own 
shelter. 

Our  boat  was  too  small  to  admit  of  a  rudder,  and  an  enormous 
paddle  for  use  in  steering  was  made  by  Kun'lla,  and  ornamented 
with  bars  and  stripes  of  red  ochre.  We  had  jjrovided  several 
oars  cut  out  of  seasoned  spruce,  no  harder  wood  being  attain- 
able, except  birch,  which  is  too  brittle. 

On  the  i6th  and  i8th  of  May  we  all  united  in  erecting  the 
poles  between  the  Nulato  post  and  Fort  Kennicott.  Dyer  had 
decided  to  take  Antoshka,  and  a  Creole  called  Aloshka,  who 
understood  the  Eskimo  dialect  of  the  Innuit  of  the  Yukon- 
mouth,  serving  as  an  interpreter  as  well  as  an  assistant  in 
paddling  the  three-holed  bidarka  in  which  the  journey  was  to 
be  made.  Scratchett  was  to  remain  at  Nulato  and  secure  logs 
for  the  buildings  to  be  put  up  at  Fort  Kennicott  after  the  ice 
had  passed  out  of  the  river. 

The  ice  on  the  Yukon  was  separated  from  the  shore  by  a  wide 
belt  of  water,  and  we  hourly  looked  for  a  rise  which  should  give 
it  a  start  down  stream. 

On  the  19th  of  May,  about  one  o'clock,  as  Whymper  and  my- 
self were  sitting  on  the  roof,  we  perceived  a  slight  motion,  and 
upon  our  raising  a  shout  to  that  effect,  the  whole  population  of 
the  fort  was  soon  out  on  the  bank,  watching  the  slow  progress 
of  the  great  sheet  of  ice  between  us  and  the  island.  The  pre 
vious  year  the  ice  had  broken  up  on  the  21st.  The  water  began 
to  rise  very  rapidly,  and  soon  covered  much  of  the  beach.  We 
watched  it  with  a  great  deal  of  interest ;  but  the  sight  was  by  no 
means  as  grand  as  we  had  anticipated.     It  passed  very  quietly 


THE   YUKON   TERRITORY. 


73 


for  a  time,  and  finally  stopped,  a  jam  having  occurred  somewhere 
below,  and  the  water  being  still  too  low  to  carry  all  before  it. 

On  the  2 1  St  it  began  to  move  again  ;  and  the  water  had  risen 
to  the  foot  of  an  inclined  plane  opposite  the  fort-gate,  where  the 
bank  is  usually  ascended.  The  Russians  do  not  start  up  the 
river  until  the  ice  is  well  out  of  it,  as  the  danger  to  skin-boats 
would  be  too  great  to  risk. 

Our  necessary  trading-goods  and  provisions  amounted  to  nearly 
eight  hundred  pounds,  which,  with  the  men,  oars,  sails,  and 
other  baggage,  made  up  nearly  eighteen  hundred  pounds.  Of 
this  we  intended  to  put  a  bag  of  flour  and  one  of  bread  on  board 
the  large  Russian  boat,  maKing  about  sixteen  hundred  and  fifty 
pounds  that  our  little  bidar-d  must  carry. 

On  the  25th,  all  our  preparations  being  completed,  we  took  our 
last  night's  rest  in  the  old  Nulato  trading-post. 


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CHAPTER    III. 

Our  departure  from  Nulato.  —  Sukaree.  —  Crossing  in  the  ice.  —  Peculation.  —  Camp. 

—  Koyukuk  Sopka.  —  Barter  on  the  Yukon.  —  Indian  grave.  —  Ooskon.  —  Indian 
pipes.  —  Tohonidola.  —  Koyukun  dress.  —  Catching  butterflies.  —  Melozikakat 
River.  —  Arrival  at  Nowikakat.  —  Trading  for  meat.  —  Shamanism.  —  Indian  theol- 
ogy. —  Treating  the  sick.  —  Departure  from  Nowikakat.  —  Birch  canoes.  —  Run- 
away from  Fort  Yukon.  —Tozikakat  River.  —  Nuklukahyet  and  the  Twin  Mountains. 
— Nuklukahyet  tyone  and  other  Indians.  —  Departure  from  Nuklukahyet. —  The 
Ramparts  and  Rapids.  —  Moose  killing.  —  Pass  the  Ramparts. —  Mosquitoes. — 
Plains  north  of  the  Yukon.  —  Kutcha  Kutchin  camp.  —  Sachniti.  —  Arrival  at 
Fort  Yukon.  —  History  of  the  fort.  —  Five  years  without  bread.  —  Degradation  of 
the  servants  of  the  Hudson  Bay  Company.  —  Intense  heat.  —  Arrival  of  the  bateaux. 

—  The  annual  trade.  —  Tenan  Kutchin  Indians.  —  Other  tribes.  —  Drowning  of 
Cowley.  —  Red  f  xiggins.  —  Arrival  of  Ketchum  and  Mike.  — Missionaries  and  their 
value.  —  Course  of  the  Hud.son  Bay  Company  with  the  Indians.  —  Massacre  at  Fort 
Nelson.  —  Indians  of  the  Western  United  States.  —  Furs  in  the  storehouse. — 
Departure  from  Fort  Yukon.  —  Arrival  at  Nulato.  —  Unexpected  orders.  —  Start 
for  the  Yukon-mouth.  —  Seal  and  beluga  in  the  river.  —  Arrival  at  St.  Michael's. 


EARLY  in  the  morning  of  the  26th  of  May  we  helped  our 
'  companion,  Mr.  Dyer,  to  pack  his  baggage  into  the  bidarka, 
and  about  seven  o'clock  saw  him  fairly  started,  wiih  Ant6shka 
and  A16shka,  on  their  journey  to  the  Yukon-mouth.  We  gave 
them  a  parting  salute,  and  immediately  placed  our  own  boat 
in  the  water  and  proceeded  to  load  her.  The  Russians  had 
already  finished,  and  were  assembled  at  a  pseudo-religious  cere- 
monial before  their  departure.  At  eight  o'clock  we  pushed  off. 
Yagor  and  the  two  Russians  who  remained  behind  saluted  the 
flotilla  with  several  discharges  of  the  rusty  howitzer.  The  Rus- 
sian boat  took  the  lead,  with  eight  oarsmen  and  a  light  freight. 
We  followed  them  at  a  short  distance.  Our  party  was  com- 
posed of  Mr.  Frederick  Whymper  and  myself;  KurHla ;  a  little 
Ingalik  called  Mikdishka,  or  in  the  Indian  dialect  Menoh61noi, 
meaning  beetle,  in  allusion  to  his  diminutiveness ;  and  lastly,  a 
Koyukun,  whose  name  was  so  remarkably  long  and  unpronounce- 
able, that  we  decided  to  call  him  Tom.  All  these  had  arrived 
early  in  the  morning  in  single  birch  canoes,  a  large  number  of 


THE  YUKON  TERRITORY. 


75 


ation.  —  Camp, 
iskon.  —  Indian 

—  Melozikakat 

—  Indian  theol- 
canoes.  —  Run- 
'win  Mountains, 
jkahyet.  —  The 

Mosquitoes.  — 
:i.  —  Arrival  at 
Degradation  of 
I  of  the  bateaux. 

—  Drowning  of 
naries  and  their 
assacre  at  Fort 

storehouse.  — 
orders.  —  Start 
>t.  Michael's. 

helped  our 
the  bidarka, 
1  Ant6shka 
We  gave 
r  own  boat 
ussians  had 
igious  cere- 
pushed  off. 
sahited  the 
The  Rus- 
ght  freight. 
r  was  com- 
Ua ;  a  little 
Vlenoh61noi, 
md  lastly,  a 
ipronounce- 
lad  arrived 
number  of 


which,  with  their  owners,  were  to  accompany  us  to  Nuklukah- 

The  rain  poured  down  on  us  and  made  everything  wet  and  un- 
comfortable. I  realized,  for  the  first  time,  the  size  and  power  of 
the  logs  and  fragments  of  ice  which,  seen  from  the  banks,  seemed 
so  small  and  insignificant.  KurHla,  whose  Indian  name  was 
Unookuk,  had  had  much  experience  in  this  sort  of  navigation, 
and  proved  himself  active,  energetic,  and  efficient. 

The  boat  had  been  hurriedly  loaded,  and  the  goods  were  not 
arranged  to  the  best  advantage.  It  always  takes  a  day  to  get  the 
party  and  boat  into  good  working  order.  After  pulling  about  six 
miles  we  felt  the  necessity  for  taking  some  breakfast,  and,  the 
Russians  setting  the  example,  we  hauled  close  into  the  bank  and 
boiled  the  chyniks.  It  is,  of  course,  impossible  to  take  or  make 
soft  bread  on  such  a  journey,  as  it  would  very  soon  mould.  The 
traditional  "damper"  is  a  humbug.  It  is  invariably  heavy,  and  a 
fruitful  cause  of  heartburn,  indigestion,  and  consequent  ill  humor. 
Hence,  in  the  absence  of  biscuit,  a  substitute  being  necessary,  the 
Russians  are  accustomed  to  bake  a  large  quantity  of  bread  which, 
after  slicing,  they  dry  in  t'.ie  oven,  so  that,  without  browning,  it 
becomes  as  hard  as  a  rock.  This  hardness,  however,  immediately 
disappears  when  the  siikan'e,  as  the  Russians  call  it,  is  immersed 
in  hot  tea ;  and  in  this  respect  it  is  preferable  to  biscuit,  which 
takes  a  long  time  to  soak.  It  is,  however,  more  liable  to  break 
up  than  biscuit,  when  carried  in  a  bag,  and  not  unfrequently  re- 
tains dust  and  grit  from  the  mud  walls  of  the  peechka,  unless 
very  carefully  dried.  We  had  both  biscuit  and  sukar^e ;  some  of 
the  latter  having  been  made  of  white  flour,  it  proved  execrable, 
the  Russian  sukar^e  being  always  made  of  groats  or  Graham 
flour. 

Just  above  the  ravine  and  little  brook  where  we  took  our  tea 
was  a  rounded  rock,  boldly  jutting  out  into  the  river.  Around 
this  a  constant  .^itream  of  ice-cakes,  logs,  and  driftwood  was  pour- 
ing. The  Russians  first  reached  this  point,  and  after  one  or  two 
trials  tnrned  back  and  camped,  hoping  that  the  ice  would  cease 
running  before  the  next  morning.  KurfUa  saw  this  move  with 
great  disgust.  "  The  Russians  retreat :  Un6okuk  will  not  retreat," 
said  he,  and  struck  boldly  out  into  the  stream  of  ice  and  drift- 
■  'ood.     For  ten  minutes  all  had  their  hands  full,  staving  off  logs 


76 


THE  YUKON  TERRITORY. 


ii  1 1 


B<  i^ 


S|j':: 


and  ice-cakes,  and  the  danger  was  too  imminent  to  think  about. 
A  clearer  part  of  the  river  was  soon  reached  in  safety,  the  drift 
always  running  most  thickly  in  the  strongest  current.  Paddling 
up  stream  a  mile  or  two,  the  severity  of  the  rain  induced  us  to 
camp  on  an  island,  where  we  pitched  our  tent  in  a  willow  grove, 
and  <  ndeavored  to  dry  ourselves.  The  evening  meal  consisted  of 
salted  white-fish  and  tea.  We  now  discovered  that  Scratchett 
had  availed  himself  of  the  confusion  of  our  starting  to  appropriate 
sundry  spoons,  and  other  articles  of  use  and  necessity,  to  his  own 
advantage.  Although  of  iron,  the  loss  was  as  great  as  if  they  had 
been  of  gold ;  for  who  can  eat  bread  and  tea  without  a  spoon  ? 
We  had  just  two  left,  and  our  Indians  must  take  turn  and  turn 
about  in  using  them.  Another  loss  which  we  all  regretted  was 
three  pounds  of  sugar,  which  I  had  purchased  with  a  shirt,  of  the 
individual  above  mentioned.  It  is  to  be  hoped  that  he  has  duly 
repented  in  his  subsequent  retirement. 

Several  canoes  had  followed  us  through  the  ice  in  fear  and 
trembling.  Their  inmates,  camped  near  us,  presented  a  melan- 
choly spectacle.  A  woman  whose  long  upper  garment  consisted 
of  white  cotton,  with  her  hair  streaming  down  her  back,  resembled 
a  drowned  rabbit ;  and  an  old  man  seemed  to  have  received  a 
more  thorough  washing  than  for  many  years  previous.  We  were 
all  very  wet,  but  our  clothing  repelled  the  rain  much  better  than 
deerskins  or  cotton  drill. 

Blessed  be  the  man  who  invented  rubber  blankets !  Mine,  after 
a  season  in  the  Lake  Superior  region,  did  noble  service,  as  well  as 
Whymper's,  which  he  had  obtained  in  British  Columbia.  Laying 
them  down  on  the  mud  in  which  our  camp  was  situated,  only 
covered  by  a  little  willow  brush,  we  spread  out  our  blankets,  and 
were  soon  at  rest.  '^\e  Indians,  except  Kurdla,  who,  as  coxswain, 
slept  in  our  tent,  made  their  tent  out  of  a  great  sheet  of  drill,  after 
their  own  fashion.  Bending  down  the  tops  of  several  slender  wil- 
lows, they  crossed  them  in  different  directions,  and  spreading  the 
covering  over  that,  the  whole  was  nearly  circular.  It  was  always 
a  marvel  to  me  how  they  could  lie  down  in  it,  it  was  so  small. 
After  all  got  inside,  the  edges  were  carefully  tucked  in  and  the 
mosquitoes  effectually  excluded. 

The  rain  prevented  the  latter  from  being  very  troublesome,  and 
we  slept  comfortably. 


think  about, 
fety,  the  drift 
It.  Paddling 
nduced  us  to 
willow  grove, 
I  consisted  of 
at  Scratchett 

0  appropriate 
:y,  to  his  own 
IS  if  they  had 
DUt  a  spoon? 
irn  and  turn 
egretted  was 

1  shirt,  of  the 
t  he  has  duly 

in  fear  and 
ted  a  melan- 
ent  consisted 
ck,  resembled 
'e  received  a 
IS.  We  were 
h  better  than 

!  Mine,  after 
ce,  as  well  as 
bia.  Laying 
situated,  only 
blankets,  and 
•,  as  co.xswain, 
:  of  drill,  after 
.1  slender  wil- 
spreading  the 
[t  was  always 
vas  so  small. 
J  in  and  the 


blesome,  and 


u 

> 
o 


a, 
O 

u 
III     :j 


X 


IMi:    YUKON    TKRHITOKY  7? 

The   browti    Miocene    samlstoncs    before  mentioned  arc  auc- 
-nied  ncre  by  blue  sandstones,  which  at  Nuldto  lie  below  tbcm. 
he   latter  contain   few  fossils,  —  mostly  sy^amore  leaves   (f^/ti 
litis),  and  other  ve;i;etable  remains. 

Monday,  May  27///.  —  Starting  about  three  o'clock  in  the  morn- 

.'.  we  sov>a  passed  the  Russians,  who  had  gone  a  little  farther 

the  night  and  camped  above  us.     We  passrd  throu^jh  a  small 

;h  or  fiiiidka  between  some  islands.     About  ten  oclook  we 

•  cd  at  a  tine  blutf  near  the  mouth  of  the  Koyukuiv  River,  a 

mark  in  this  part  of  lh<;  rciuntry,  and  known  as  the  Koyii- 

.Sopka.     Here  is  a  small  kt'vukun  village,  where  wc  stopped 

took  tea.     I  bought  a  large  pike-  i^hstix  rtt&r)  and  a  quunllty 

','  reindeer  meat. 

\fter' passing  the   Sopkatbc  river  is  very  winding,  and  wc 

•lently  crossed  it  in  order  to  «ihor«t.'n  the  distance.     When  in 

4  .-o  wc  came  to  the    in.un  thannri,  »!  a4»  a  hard  tug  to 

.  it,  and  we  invariably  lost  groui^d,  si^iOictHneit  swfr  ilm  tit  m  a 

.  roimding  a  turn  In  the  river  we  saw  a  large  number  of 

3  lying  near  the  bank  and  a  crowd  of  dark  fignres  on  the 

These   proved   to   be   Koyukuns,  »vho  proposed   to   ac- 

my  us.     Iv.'in  the  tyonc,  l.anidwn,  and  a  handsome  fellow 

red  shirt,  named  "Cousin"  by  Kctohum  on  his  last  season's 

iccosted  us  with  gesticulations  of  welcome.     As  rain  throat- 

and  we  wished  to  keep  our  provisions  dry,  we  camped  in 

■St  pi  ice  we  could  find  among  the  dcn.se  thickets  of  willow.s 

line  the  shore  everywhere.     There  were  a.  few  hills  in  the 

.^e,  but  no  mountains.     The  foliag<>  was  not  fully  out,  but 

hcate  green  of  the  young  leaves  made  the  river  banks  very 

iiul     Close  to  the  warrr  grow  willows  and  alders.     A  little 

r  back  are  belt.'?  of  btoad-lcaved  poplars  (/-".  bahamifira), 

1  the  dry  gn^und  spruce  {AbLs  alba),  growinj:^  to  a  very 

size   and  mixefl  witi"   :i.*«)v;ns  (Pofnlus  tremuloidis),  whose 

ilorcd  hark   and  silve  >-d  leaves  contrast   tmely  with    the 

vcrgreens.     On    the   rtH^kv  blutfs  a  ..species  of  junij^er  is 

ant,  crawling  over  the  '<*cks.  but  nut  rising  from  the  soil. 

the  left  bank,  which  i«  pvrrywhere  low,  the  willows   and 

i^  ai»pear  to  predominate     The  banks  in  many  piaccs^are 

iinincd    by  the    rapid  curn;*ht,  arnl  frequently  fall  into  thr 


I 

i 


THE  YUKON  TERRITORY. 


77 


::W'it^- 


i.i'J- 


■**<.'  ill 


i*l- 


ti^\ 


.■;       '!:'■ 


The  brown  Miocene  sandstones  before  mentioned  are  suc- 
ceeded here  by  blue  sandstones,  which  at  Nuldto  lie  below  them. 
The  latter  contain  few  fossils,  —  mostly  sycamore  leaves  {P/a- 
tanus).  and  other  vegetable  remains. 

Monday,  May  27th.  —  Starting  about  three  o'clock  in  the  morn- 
ing, we  soon  passed  the  Russians,  who  had  gone  a  little  farther 
in  the  night  and  camped  above  us.  We  passed  through  a  small 
slough  or  pratdka  between  some  islands.  About  ten  o'clock  we 
arrived  at  a  fine  bluff  near  the  mouth  of  the  Koyukuk  River,  a 
landmark  in  this  part  of  the  country,  and  known  as  the  Koyii- 
kuk  Sopka.  Here  is  a  small  Koyiikun  village,  where  we  stopped 
and  took  tea.  I  bought  a  large  pike  (Esox  estor)  and  a  quantity 
of  dry  reindeer  meat. 

After  passing  the  Sopka  the  river  is  very  winding,  and  we 
frequently  crosse*^'  it  in  order  to  shorten  the  distance.  When  in 
doing  so  we  ca.ne  to  the  main  channel,  it  was  a  hard  tug  to 
cross  it,  and  we  invariably  lost  ground,  sometimes  as  much  as  a 
mile. 

On  rounding  a  turn  in  the  river  we  saw  a  large  number  of 
canoes  lying  near  the  bank  and  a  crowd  of  dark  figures  on  the 
shore.  These  proved  to  be  Koyukuns,  who  proposed  to  ac- 
company us.  Ivan  the  tyone,  Larriown,  and  a  handsome  fellow 
in  a  red  shirt,  named  "Cousin"  by  Ketchum  on  his  last  season's 
trip,  accosted  us  with  gesticulations  of  welcome.  As  rain  threat- 
ened, and  we  wished  to  keep  our  provisions  dry,  we  camped  in 
the  best  place  we  could  find  among  the  dense  thickets  of  willows 
which  line  the  shore  everywhere.  There  were  a  few  hills  in  the 
distance,  but  no  mountains.  The  foliage  was  not  fully  out,  but 
the  delicate  green  of  the  young  leaves  made  the  river  banks  very 
beautiful.  Close  to  the  water  grow  willows  and  alders.  A  little 
farther  back  are  belts  of  broad-leaved  poplars  {P.  balsamifcrd), 
and  on  the  dry  ground  spruce  {Abies  alba),  growing  to  a  very 
large  size  and  mixed  with  aspens  {Poptiltis  trctmiloidcs),  whose 
light-colored  bark  and  silvered  leaves  contrast  finely  with  the 
dark  evergreens.  On  the  rocky  bluffs  a  species  of  juniper  is 
abundant,  crawling  over  the  rocks,  but  not  rising  from  the  soil. 

On  the  left  bank,  which  is  everywhere  low,  the  willows  and 
poplars  appear  to  predominate.  The  banks  in  many  places  are 
undermined   by  the   rapid  current,  and  frequently  fall  into  the 


iX< 


7» 


THE  YUKON  TERRITORY. 


!i 


river  in  large  masses,  with  the  trees  and  shrubs  upon  them, 
startling  the  unaccustomed  ear  with  a  noise  like  thunder. 

The  ground  where  Ketchum  camped  the  previous  year,  accord- 
ing to  Kurflla,  was  under  water;  we  had  camped  on  a  low  island 
somewhat  in  advance  of  the  Russians.  The  Koyukuns  brought 
their  stores  of  dried  meat  and  fat,  and  I  purchased  about  fifty 
pounds  of  the  former.  The  tariff  of  prices  was  high,  compared 
with  what  we  had  paid  for  the  same  things  on  the  coa-:!.  We 
gave  five  loads  of  powder  for  a  duck,  seven  for  a  goose,  if  fat ; 
five  balls  or  a  small  bundle  of  leaves  of  Circassian  tobacco,  called 
by  the  Russians  a  papodsh,  for  a  beaver-tail ;  six  to  eight  balls  for 
the  dry  breast  of  a  deer ;  four  or  five  for  a  deer's  tongue ;  and 
for  fat,  especially  the  marrow  of  the  long  bones  of  the  reindeer, 
whatever  would  buy  it,  usually  a  pretty  high  price.  A  ball,  a 
charge  of  powder,  or  two  caps,  are  the  units  of  trade,  and  will 
buy  almost  anything.  Knives,  beads,  flints  and  steels,  needles, 
small  looking-glasses,  handkerchiefs  of  various  colors,  woollen 
scarfs,  and  cotton  drill  or  calico  are  all  useful,  but  tobacco  and 
ammunition  are  the  great  staples.  The  Circassian  or  Chcrkdtsky 
tobacco,  imported  only  by  the  Russians,  and  exceedingly  strong, 
is  the  prime  favorite  where  the  Russians  trade ;  but  those  who 
deal  more  with  the  English  at  Fort  Yukon  like  the  long  natural 
Kentucky  leaf  best.  The  latter  we  used  for  our  own  smoking, 
obtaining  an  excellent  article  from  the  Russians  for  thirty  cents  a 
pound. 

Swans,  brant,  and  sandhill  cranes  were  seen,  the  former  abun- 
dantly. Ivia  PavloflF  sent  me  two  eggs  of  the  white-cheeked 
goose  (B.  latcoparcid),  which  were  found  on  a  bit  of  sandy  beach 
near  the  camp,  and  every  step  added  some  new  plant,  insect,  or 
bird  to  our  col'^ctions.  The  Koyiikuk  S6pka  is  composed  of  a 
soft  crystalline  rock  apparently  unstratified. 

In  this  kind  of  journey,  sluggards  are  out  of  place.  We 
allowed  ourselves  but  four  or  five  hours  for  sleep,  and  after  a  cup 
of  tea  continued  on  our  way. 

Tuesday,  28///.  —  Ivan  the  tyone,  and  old  Wolasdtux  came  along 
in  their  little  canoes  with  some  half-dried  fish  for  sale,  which 
we  purchased  for  our  Indians.  Passing  through  a  narrow  pra- 
toka  between  two  islands  and  the  shore,  we  came  to  a  solitary 
Indian  house,  quite  empty.     On  the  hillside  near  it  stood  a 


THE  YUKON   TERRITORY. 


79 


solitary  grave.  A  little  fence  of  white  spruce  stakes  was  built 
around  it,  and  from  several  long  poles  streamers  of  white  cotton 
were  floating.  KurHla  said  that  it  was  the  grave  of  an  Indian 
who  had  died  in  the  previous  fall,  and  that  the  house  was  occu- 
pied by  his  wife,  who  spent  all  her  time  (except  when  procuring 
food)  in  watching  the  grave,  and  devoting  all  her  property  to  the 
purpose  of  adorning  it.  The  house  looked  neat  and  clean,  the 
hillside  was  green,  and  the  sun  shone  brightly  on  the  lonely 
grave,  as  we  passed  by  on  the  other  side  of  the  pratoka.  Just  be- 
yond, a  perpendicular  and  solitary  bluff  fronted  the  river.  Close 
to  its  face  rushed  the  swift  current,  with  its  burden  of  driftwood, 
at  the  rate  of  seven  knots  an  hour.  There  was  no  backing  out : 
we  had  to  cross  here.  The  swift  part  of  the  current  appeared  to 
be  narrow.  The  canoes  first  essayed  it,  and  were  swept  like 
straws  a  mile  down  stream  in  the  twinkling  of  an  eye. 

This  made  us  careful.  We  kept  close  to  the  rock,  where  there 
was  a  little  slack  water,  and  then,  driving  our  paddles  into  the 
water  with  a  will,  we  passed  the  current,  and  reached  the  op- 
posite bank,  not  more  than  a  quarter  of  a  mile  below.  Waiting 
to  rest,  we  saw  the  Russians  kill  a  beaver  in  the  water,  and  then 
cross  the  stream  with  about  the  same  success  as  ourselves.  Con- 
tinuing on  our  way,  about  six  o'clock  we  stopped  to  boil  the 
chynik  and  to  rest,  Ivan  Pavloff  was  invited  to  take  tea  with  us. 
Sugar  being  a  very  scarce  article  in  this  country,  it  is  usually 
boiled  with  water  into  hard  cakes,  which,  when  properly  done, 
are  not  affected  by  the  weather.  Soft  sugar  will  waste  away 
imperceptibly  with  the  dampness.  The  orthodox  way  is  to  take 
a  fragment  of  this  hard  sugar,  bite  off  a  small  piece  of  it,  and 
drink  your  tea  without  putting  any  into  it.  This  is  much  more 
economical,  and  is  hereby  recommended  to  boarding-house  keep- 
ers. I  was  much  amused  by  observing  Pavloff,  who  after  finish- 
ing his  tea  replaced  the  lump  from  which  he  had  been  biting  in 
the  common  sugar-box. 

About  ten  o'clock  we  came  to  a  very  wide  part  of  the  river, 
where  the  Russians  lay  to  for  a  while,  and  fired  a  small  boat-gun 
which  they  carried  in  their  bidarrd.  This  was  to  notify  the  In- 
dians, if  any  were  in  the  vicinity,  that  the  Russians  were  ready  to 
trade  ;  but  none  made  their  appearance,  and  the  bidarrd  soon  con- 
tinued on  its  way.     On  a  low  sand-bar,  where  the  sun  poured 


I 

I 


i  I 


I 


80  THE  YUKON  TERRITORY. 

down  with  double  force,  and  mosquitoes  hummed  in  myriads,  we 
also  found  an  old  man  and  his  old  wife.  I  afterwards  heard  that  he 
had  a  young  one.  His  hair  stood  out  in  every  direction  where  it 
was  not  matted  down  by  dirt.  His  clothing  hung  in  the  filthiest 
rags,  and  his  voice  sounded  like  that  of  a  fishhawk  with  a  cold. 
His  name  was  Oosk6n,  or  Rabbit,  and  it  was  stated  by  Kurdla 
that  he  was  noted  for  his  good-humor  and  generosity.  He  might 
have  given  away  all  his  clothes,  which  would  account  for  his  ap- 
pearance. His  wife  was  his  duplicate,  except  that  she  was  silent, 
which  is  an  excellent  thing  in  women.  The  old  fellow  brought 
me  a  gull's  egg,  which  I  gratefully  accepted,  wished  to  sell  me 
some  fish,  which  I  respectfully  declined,  and  finally  brought  out 
two  stuffed  skins  of  the  beautiful  northern  phalarope,  which  I 
purchased,  as  they  were  in  very  fair  condition.  I  afterwards 
discovered  they  were  stuffed  with  a  very  sweet-scented  grass. 
On  pointing  this  out  to  Wolasatux,  he  shook  his  head  gravely, 
and  said,  "  They  are  rotten  ! "  These  Indians  have  no  apprecia- 
tion of  sweet  odors.  The  wild  rose  {^Rosa  cinnamomca),  which  is 
one  of  the  few  fragrant  flowers  to  be  found  or.  the  Yukon,  is 
called  among  them  by  an  untranslatable  name,  on  account  of  its 
perfume.  The  only  odor  they  appreciate  lies  hidden  in  the  steam 
arising  from  the  soup-kettle. 

Rain  coming  on,  we  camped  on  a  steep  bank,  and  the  Russians 
followed  our  example. 

I  afterwards  added  a  green-winged  teal  and  hooded  grebe 
{Podiceps  cornutus)  to  our  collection.  A  high  sandy  bluff  near 
our  camp  was  full  of  the  nests  of  the  bank  swallow.  It  seemed 
like  a  gigantic  honeycomb  swarming  with  bees,  as  the  light- 
winged  swallows  darted  about.  The  eggs  are  white,  and  are 
laid  on  a  few  very  fine  twigs,  which  keep  them  off  the  sand. 
I  counted  nearly  eight  hundred  holes,  all  of  which  seemed  to  be 
occupied.  I  obtained  from  the  Indians  quite  a  number  of  ducks 
and  geese  for  our  kettle. 

Wednesday,  29///.  —  We  broke  camp  about  five  o'clock  in 
the  morning.  Nothing  occurred  to  break  the  monotony  of  con- 
stant steady  paddling.  Two  Indians  in  the  bow  of  the  boat 
would  row  until  tired,  and  then  we  would  stop  for  a  few  minutes 
to  rest,  and  let  them  smoke.  The  last  operation  takes  less  than  a 
minute :  their  pipes  are  so  constructed  as  to  hold  but  a  very 


THE   YUKON   TERRITORY. 


8i 


the  Russians 


A.  —  Kiitcliin. 
II.  —  Innuit. 


C.  —  Koyiikun. 
I),  K.  —  Chukctice. 


small  pinch  of  tohacco.  The  bowl,  with  cars  for  tying  it  to 
the  stem,  is  generally  cast  out  of  lead.  Sometimes  it  is  made  of 
soft  stone,  bone,  or  even  hard  wood.  The  stem  is  made  of  two 
|)ieccs  of  wood,  hollowed  on  one 
side,  and  bound  to  the  bowl  and 
to  each  other  by  a  narrow  strip 
of  deerskin.  In  smoking,  the 
economical  Indian  generally  cuts 
np  a  little  birch  wood,  or  the  in- 
ner bark  of  the  poplar,  and  mixes 
it  with  his  tobacco.  A  few  rein- 
deer hairs,  pulled  from  his  parka, 
are  rolled  into  a  little  ball,  and 
placed  in  the  bottom  of  the  bowl  to  prevent  the  contents  from 
being  drawn  into  the  stem.  A  pinch  of  tobacco,  cut  as  fine 
as  sniiflf,  is  inserted,  and  two  or  three  whifts  are  afforded  by  it. 
The  smoke  is  inhaled  into  the  lir  :  ,  producing  a  moment.nry 
stupefaction,  and  the  operation  is  over.  A  fundus  which  grows 
on  decayed  birch  trees,  or  tnider  manufactured  from  the  down 
of  the  poplar  rubbed  up  with  charcoal,  is  used  with  flint  and 
steel  for  obtaining  a  lij;ht.  Matches  are  highly  valued,  and 
rcailily  purchased.  The  eflfect  of  the  Circassian  tobacco  on  the 
lungs  is  extremely  bad,  and  among  those  tribes  who  use  it  many 
die  from  asthma  and  congestion  of  the  lungs.  This  is  principally 
due  to  the  saltpetre  with  which  it  is  impregnated.  The  Indian 
pipe  is  copied  from  the  Kskimo,  as  the  latter  were  the  first  to 
obtain  and  use  tobacco.  Many  of  the  tribes  call  it  by  the  Eskimo 
name.  The  Kutchin  and  Kastern  Tinneh  use  one  modelled  after 
the  clay  pipes  of  the  Hudson  Hay  Company,  but  they  also  carve 
very  pretty  ones  out  of  birch  knots  and  the  root  of  the  wild  rose- 
bush. The  Chukchees  use  a  pipe  similar  to  those  of  the  Es- 
kimo, but  with  a  much  larger  and  shorter  stem.  This  stem  is 
hollow,  and  is  filled  with  fine  birch  shavings.  After  smoking  for 
some  months  these  shavings,  impregnated  with  the  oil  of  tobacco, 
are  taken  out  through  an  opening  in  the  lower  part  of  the  stem, 
and  smoked  over.  The  Hudson  Bay  men  make  passable  pipe- 
stems  by  taking  a  straight-grained  piece  of  willow  or  spruce, 
without  knots,  and  cutting  through  the  outer  layers  of  bark  and 
wood.  This  stick  is  heated  in  the  ashes,  and  by  twisting  the 
6 


82 


THE  YUKON   TERRITORY. 


f  \ 


li'  : 


ends  in  contrary  directions,  the  heart-wood  may  be  gradually 
drawn  out,  leaving  a  wooden  tube.  The  Kutchin  make  pretty 
pipe-stems  cut  of  goose-quills  wound  about  with  colored  porcu- 
pine quills.  It  is  the  custom  in  the  English  forts  to  make  every 
Indian  who  comes  to  trade,  a  present  of  a  clay  pipe  filled  with 
tobacco.  We  were  provided  with  cheap  brown  ones,  with  wooden 
stems,  which  were  much  liked  b^  the  natives,  and  it  is  probable 
that  small  brier-wood  pipes,  which  are  not  liable  to  break,  would 
form  an  acceptable  addition  to  any  stock  of  trading-goods. 

For  the  first  time  we  were  able  to  use  our  sail,  as  a  fair  wind 
sprang  up  in  the  afternoon,  and  for  a  short  time  we  made  excel- 
lent progress. 

About  five  o'clock  we  camped  at  a  place  where  In  summer  the 
Indians  have  a  fishery,  and  which  is  called  Kam^n-sikhtcr. 

Thursday,  ^oih.  —  The  sealskin  of  which  the  bidarrds  are  made, 
by  long  contim mce  in  the  water  becomes  soft  and  unsound. 
Hence,  as  the  weather  continued  rainy,  we  decided  to  lay  over 
a  day,  take  the  boat  out  of  the  water,  dry  and  oil  it ;  the  Rus- 
sians doing  the  same  with  their  bidarrd.     During  the  interval, 

many  additions  were  made 
to  our  collections.  I  ob- 
served a  fine-looking  Ko- 
yukun,  called  ToJio-nidola, 
who  wore  a  mantle  made 
of  a  dressed  deerskin.  It 
was  cut  to  a  point  behind, 
and  into  fringes  around 
the  edge.  It  was  orna- 
mented with  a  few  beads, 
hanging  in  short  strings, 
and  was  colored  on  the 
inside  with  red  ochre; 
making  a  very  graceful  ar- 
ticle of  apparel.  The  breeches  had  the  moccasins  continuous 
with  the  leg,  and  were  heavily  embroidered  with  large  black  and 
white  beads.  The  pattern  universal  among  the  Koyiikun  men 
consists  of  a  band  of  beads  in  front,  from  the  thigh  to  the  ankle, 
a  short  one  crossing  it  at  the  knee.  At  the  ankle  the  long  baud 
bifurcates,  and  the  two  ends,  after  reaching  the  sides  of  the  foot, 


Tohonidola. 


THE  YUKON  TERRITORY. 


83 


continue  all  around  its  edge,  except  over  the  heel.  The  pattern 
for  females  is  similar,  but  the  perpendicular  band  on  the  leg  is 
omitted.  The  Koyiikun  male  parka  has  been  described.  The 
pattern  of  ornamentation  is  a  broad  band  of  beadwork  across  the 
breast  and  back,  and  over  the  shoulders,  with  fringes  on  the 
pointed  ends,  and  a  few  short  tails  of  beadwork  in  front  and  on 
the  sleeves.  The  female  parka  comes  below  the  knee,  and  is  cut 
round  like  an  ordinary  dress,  but  a  little  shorter  in  front  than 
behind.  They  are  ornamented  with  a  similar  band  around  the 
shoulders,  sometimes  one  around  the  wrist,  and  one  around  the 
edge  of  the  skirt  in  lieu  of  fringes.  Before  the  introduction  of 
beads  by  the  Russians,  this  work  was  done  in  porcupine  quills, 
often  in  very  tasteful  patterns,  and  among  the  Tcndn  Kittchin,  or 
Tananah  River  Indians,  this  practice  still  obtains  White  and 
black  or  brick  red  are  the  only  colors  I  have  seen  used  on  cloth- 
ing, and  they  are  always  embroidered  in  alternate  bands.  Other 
beads,  of  various  colors,  in  strings  seven  feet  long,  are  valued 
by  the  natives  as  property,  having  a  fixed  value  of  two  marten- 
skins  a  string.  They  pass  from  hand  to  hand,  much  as  we  use 
money.  Small  beads,  of  various  kinds,  are  much  in  demand 
among  the  women,  who  use  them  as  ornaments  for  their  children. 
Strong  beads,  over  which  the  hand  passes  smoothly,  are  the  only 
kind  suited  for  fur-trading.  Red,  black,  white,  dark  blue,  and 
amber  are  the  desirable  colors. 

Friday,  31J/. —  Making  an  early  start,  we  passed  a  point 
known  as  Sakatalontan,  about  half  past  three  in  the  morning. 
Large  stacks  of  driftwood,  as  big  as  houses,  came  floating  down 
in  the  current,  and  great  care  was  necessary  to  avoid  collision. 
These  were  piles  of  logs  thrown  upon  sandbars  by  previous 
freshets,  which  the  unusually  high  water  had  floated  off  entire. 
We  passed  many  low  bluffs  of  blue  sandstone  and  a  few  gravel- 
banks.  Tom  found  a  mallard's  nest  on  the  bank,  with  nine  cgi;s 
in  it,  which  were  devoted  to  an  omelet,  after  carefully  emptying 
the  shells  with  a  small  blowpipe.  We  comped  on  a  high  bank 
without  taking  the  tent  out  of  the  boat,  as  the  night  was  remark- 
ably pleasant  and  the  mosquitoes  unusually  quiet. 

Saturday,  yune  \st.  —  The  next  morning  at  one  o'clock  we 
were  on  our  way  again,  working  hard  against  a  strong  current. 
The  sandstones  were  now  succeeded  by  conglomerate  and  meta- 


11:  i 


84 


THE  YUKON   TERRITORY. 


morphous  quartzose  rocks.  Many  butterflies,  including  the  fa- 
miliar swallow-tail  (JPapilio  Turnus),  and  another  species  some- 
what similar  {P.  Aliaska),  were  hovering  over  the  surface.  Upon 
mentioning  that  I  would  give  a  needle  apiece  for  good  speci- 
mens, a  commotion  was  aroused  amongst  the  little  fleet  of  birch 
canoes  which  accompanied  us.  All  was  excitement,  paddles  were 
flourished  in  the  air,  the  light  canoes  darted  about  after  the 
slowly  sailing,  unsuspecting  butterflies,  and  the  result  was  a 
considerable  number  of  passable  specimens.  I  saw,  also,  several 
wax-wings  {Ampelis  garrulus)  in  the  bushes  along  shore,  and 
obtained  a  sandhill  crane.     A  fair  wind  sprang  up  and  sent  the 


Mt.  Hohonila  from  the  Melnzikakat. 


Russians  scudding  around  a  si.\-mile  bend  under  their  large  sail. 
Our  boat  proved  a  very  slow  sailei,  the  wind  soon  dropped,  and 
we  had  to  pull  all  the  way  around  the  bend. 

After  camping  we  employed  Larriown's  wife  to  sew  up  some 
cuts  in  the  sealskin  of  our  bidarrd.  These  were  made  by  the 
constant  stream  of  driftwood ;  but  when  sewed  up  and  the  seam 
well  rubbed  with  tallow,  the  boat  was  as  tight  as  ever.  The 
skin  was  old  and  very  rotten,  so  that  we  had  to  exercise  the 
utmost  precaution  in  landing  and  in  avoiding  driftwood  or  rocks. 

Sunday,  2d.  —  About  ten  o'clock  the  next  day  we  took  our 
tea  at  the  mouth  of  the  Melozikdkat  or  Clear  River.     From  this 


THE  YUKON   TERRITORY. 


85 


Mr  large  sail. 


point  a  fine  view  may  be  had  of  a  mountain  which  rises  per- 
haps two  thousand  feet  above  the  river,  and  is  known  to  the  In- 
dians as  Hoho-nHa.  The  upper  portion  still  retained  snow  in 
many  ravines,  though  later  in  the  season  it  disappears  entirely. 
The  mosquitoes  were  exceedingly  troublesome.  The  night  had 
ceased  to  be  dark,  as  the  sun  remained  only  about  two  hours 
behind  the  high  hills  which  shut  out  the  horizon. 

Monday,  ^d.  —  Passed  the  Uka-wiitne  or  "  Look-and-see-it " 
River.  It  is  a  small  stream.  Near  its  mouth  the  Yukon  is  very 
broad  and  full  of  islands.  About  noon  the  sun  was  so  scorching 
(90°  in  the  shade)  that  we  pulled  into  the  bank  and  rested  for  a 
couple  of  hours.  We  then  proceeded  to  the  point  on  the  right 
bank  where  the  Russians  had  camped,  waiting  the  report  of  a 
messenger  who  had  been  sent  to  the  village  of  Nowikakat  on  the 
left  bank  a  few  miles  above.  As  he  did  not  appear  I  turned  in, 
and  had  h.irdly  got  under  the  blankets,  when  I  heard  the  well- 
known  voice  of  Larri6wn,  who  poked  his  ugly  head  into  the  tent, 
saying  there  was  plenty  of  dry  meat  and  many  Indians  at  Nowi- 
kakat, and  begging  a  little  tobacco  for  his  information. 

I  put  on  my  boots  and  stepped  out  of  the  tent,  around  which 
a  number  of  Indians  had  gathered.  The  old  Nowikakat  tyone 
was  there,  and  one  of  the  men  who  had  gone  up  with  Ketchum 
suddenly  appeared.  He  gave  us  the  welcome  information  tlxit 
Ketchum  and  the  party  had  reached  Fort  Yukon  in  safety,  and 
had  started  with  open  water  for  Fort  Selkirk,  having  sent  the  In- 
dians and  six  remaining  dogs  down  the  river  in  a  bidarrd  made  of 
moose-hide. 

Tuesday,  ^th.  —  We  struck  our  tent,  broke  camp,  and  started 
for  Nowikakat,  in  company  with  the  Russians  and  Indians.  We 
hoisted  the  American  flag  over  the  blue  cross  and  scallop- 
shell  of  the  Scientific  Corps,  and  came  into  Nowikakat  Harbor 
with  colors  flying.  We  received  and  returned  a  salute  of  mus- 
l<etry,  and,  finding  with  difficulty  a  place  among  the  myriads  of 
birch  canoes  where  we  could  moor  our  boat,  wc  pitched  our  tent 
in  the  middle  of  the  village.  We  informed  the  tyone,  or  chief, 
that  we  were  exceedingly  tired,  and  must  sleep  before  any  trading 
could  be  done.  This  was  quite  true,  as  I,  for  one,  had  slept  but 
about  two  hours  out  of  the  last  forty-eight.  We  tied  the  flaps  of 
the  tent  closely,  but  even  this  did  not  prevent  the  Indians  from 


86 


THE  YUKON   TERRITORY. 


raising  the  edge  of  the  canvas  and  peering  in  upon  us  witH^as 
much  curiosity  and  pertinacity  as  country  boys  at  a  circus  After 
a  few  hours'  rest  we  rose  and  dressed.  We  could  not  keep  out 
the  Indians,  until  we  admitted  the  tyone,  whose  repeated  orders 
kept  them  outside  for  a  time.  He  watched  the  process  of  washing 
with  great  interest,  from  which  I  inferred  that  he  did  not  indulge 
in  that  luxury.  He  was  very  anxious  that  we  should  present  him 
with  our  brushes,  combs,  soap,  and  other  articles  for  the  toilet, 
which  we  were  obliged  to  refuse  him  ;  but  we  made  up  to  him  for 
the  disappointment  by  presents  of  tobacco,  powder,  and  ball.  We 
heard  that  Antoine  Houlc,  the  Fort  Yukon  interpreter,  was  at 
Nuklukahy^t  with  a  trading  party,  and  we  desired  to  send  a  letter 
to  him  ;  but  old  Ivan,  the  tyone,  prevented  our  doing  so,  by  fright- 
ening our  messenger  with  an  account  of  the  danger  of  making 
such  a  journey  alone.  I-'or  this  piece  of  mischief  he  got  a  scold- 
ing, which  astonished  him  a"d  made  him  less  officious  in  future. 

After  breakfast,  which  we  shared  with  the  Nowikakat  tyone, 
we  proceeded  to  business.  Whymper  was  busy  with  his  sketch- 
book, and  left  the  trading  to  me. 

All  accounts  of  the  country  between  Nowikakat  and  Fort 
Yukon  agreed  in  representing  it  as  a  district  where  provisions 
were  very  scarce,  and  so  we  had  determined  to  provide  them  in 
advance.  I  purchased,  for  seven  fathoms  of  drill,  three  papooshes 
of  tobacco,  and  five  balls,  a  birch  canoe  of  the  largest  size,  with  its 
paddles.  From  the  abundant  stores  of  dried  meat  and  fat  which 
the  Indians  had  laid  in,  I  obtained  about  three  hundred  pounds 
of  dry  deer  and  moose  meat,  clear  moose  fat  in  birch  dishes,  and 
dried  entrails  of  the  deer,  which  were  filled  with  fat  of  the  best 
kind.  I  was  able  to  secure,  besides,  a  large  number  of  moose 
and  deer  ton<^aes,  and  dried  moose  noses,  the  latter  making  a 
delicious  dish  when  thoroughly  boiled.  We  also  succeeded  in 
engaging  two  more  men  to  take  this  canoe-load  of  meat  at  least 
as  far  as  Nuklukahyd-t.  A  large  number  of  birds'-nests,  mouse- 
skins,  and  other  specimens  of  natural  history,  were  also  secured. 
I  had  then  an  opportunity  to  make  a  few  observations  on  the 
place  and  its  inhabitants. 

Nowikdkat  Village  is  situated  on  a  beautiful  little  enclosed  bay, 
into  which  the  river  of  the  same  name  enters,  with  several  smaller 
streams.     This  river  is  about  one  hundred  miles  long,  and  its 


THE  YUKON  TERRITORY. 


us  witl^'as 
reus  After 
ot  keep  out 
eated  orders 
,s  of  washing 

not  indulge 
present  him 
)r  the  toilet, 
ip  to  him  for 
nd  ball.    We 
reter,  was  at 
send  a  letter 
so,  by  fright- 
:r  of  making 
s  got  a  scold- 
is  in  future, 
ikakat  tyone, 
h  his  sketch- 

:at  and   Fort 
re  provisions 
vide  them  in 
ee  papooshes 
size,  with  its 
nd  fat  which 
dred  pounds 
|h  dishes,  and 
,t  of  the  best 
ler  of  moose 
r  making  a 
puccecded  in 
meat  at  least 
nests,  mouse- 
also  secured. 
Itions  on  the 

enclosed  bay, 
Iveral  smaller 
long,  and  its 


mouth  is  about  one  hundred  and  thirty  miles  from  Nulato  in 
a  direct  line.  By  the  Yukon  the  distance  is  considerably  greater. 
The  head-waters  are  on  the  southeast  side  of  the  Nowikakat  and 
Kdiyuh  Mountains,  and,  according  to  Indian  accounts,  a  short 
portage  can  be  made  to  the  head-waters  of  the  Shdgcliik  or 
so-called  Innoko  River,  or,  by  crossing  the  mountains,  to  the 
Kdiyuh  River.  These  portages  are  frequently  made  by  the 
Indians  who  trade  with  the  Ingaliks. 

A   narrow   entrance   connects   the    basin   with    the    Yukon. 
Through  this  a  beautiful  view  is  obtained,  across  the  river  and 


Looking  out  of  Nowikakat  Harbor. 

through  the  numerous  islands,  of  the  opposite  shore  and  the 
Yukon  Mountains  in  the  distance.  The  feathery  willows  and 
li<(ht  poplars   bend   over   and  reflected  in  the  dark  water, 

unmi.xcd  as  yet  with  Yukon  mud  ;  every  island  and  hillside  is 
clothed  in  the  delicate  green  of  spring,  and  lu.\uriatcs  in  a  density 
of  foliage  remarkable  in  such  a  latitude. 

The  village  appeared  to  be  a  mere  collection  of  huts,  temporary 
lodges,  an  J  tents;  one  or  two  winter  houses  seemed  as  if  long 
deserted  and  rapidly  going  to  decay.  All  these  were  crowded 
together  on  a  low  bank,  from  which  the  willows  seemed  to  have 
been  recently  cut  away.     The  shore  was  absolutely  covered  with 


88 


THE  YUKON  TERRITORY. 


i  ! 


birch  canoes.  The  dress  of  the  Indians  was  similar  to  the 
Koyukun,  already  described ;  but  a  few  specimens  of  fine  bead- 
work  and  fringed  hunting-shirts  showed  the  effect  of  English 
intercourse.  The  guns  were  all  English  single-barrelled  flint- 
locks, while  the  Koyiikuns  are  provided  with  double  percussion 
guns  from  the  traders  in  Kotzebue  Sound,  through  the  l"lskimo. 
The  principal  supply  of  food  seemed  to  be  moose  meat.  Fish 
was  evidently  scarce,  and  deer  less  abundant  than  near  the  coast. 
As  evening  approached,  Larri6wn  the  shaman,  and  his  wife,  were 
called  upon  to  e.xercise  their  art  for  the  relief  of  a  sick  man  who 
apparently  had  not  long  to  live. 

The  belief  in  shamanism  is  universal  among  the  natives  of 
Alaska,  Eskimo  as  well  as  Indians.  Even  the  Aleuts,  long 
nominally  converted  to  Christianity,  still  retain  superstitious 
feelings  in  regard  to  it.  It  is  essentially  a  belief  in  spirits  who 
are  controlled  by  the  shaman  ;  who  come  at  his  call,  impart  to 
him  the  secrets  of  the  future  and  the  past,  afflict  or  cease 
afflicting  men  by  sickness  at  his  behest,  and  enable  him  to 
advise  others  as  to  seasons  and  places  of  hunting,  good  or  evil 
omens,  and  the  death  or  recovery  of  the  sick.  These  however 
are  not  spirits  who  were  once  men. 

Many  Indians  —  in  fact,  all  the  Tinneh  that  I  have  conversed 
with,  who  have  not  been  taught  by  the  English  or  Russian  mis- 
sionaries —  do  not  believe  in  the  immortality  of  man.  Of  those 
who  have  a  dim  notion  of  the  kind  none  have  any  idea  whatever 
of  future  reward  and  punishment,  of  any  Supreme  Power  or  Deity, 
of  good  and  evil  in  a  moral  sense,  or  of  anything  which  can  be 
called  a  religion.  Assertions  to  the  contrary  proceed  from  the 
ignorance  or  poetical  license  of  the  author,  or  from  an  intercourse 
with  tribes  who  have  derived  their  ideas  from  missionaries. 

The  support  which  the  spiritual  instincts  of  human  nature 
demand  is  met  among  the  Indians  by  a  belief  in  shamanism. 
All  animals,  woods,  waters,  and  natural  phenomena  such  as  the 
aurora  borealis  or  thunder  and  lightning,  arc  supposed  to  be 
either  the  abodes  or  the  means  of  manifestation  of  spirits.  The 
latter  have  power  and  knowledge  limited  by  their  respective 
spheres.  The  most  powerful  and  beneficent  of  all  are  the  ob- 
jects of  ridicule  and  contempt,  as  often  as  of  fear  or  reverence, 
in  the  Indian  legends  which  relate  to  them.     The  whole  relation. 


THE  YUKON   TERRITORY. 


89 


between  the  Indians  and  these  spirits  as  they  believe  in  them, 
is  one  of  self-interest  and  fear.  They  preserve  all  bones  out  of 
reach  of  the  dogs  for  a  year,  when  they  are  carefully  buried,  lest 
the  spirits  who  look  after  the  beavers  and  sables  should  consider 
that  they  are  regarded  with  contempt,  and  hence  no  more  should 
be  killed  or  trapped.  Other  singular  superstitions,  the  result  of 
accident,  some  local  incident,  or  unexplained  coincidence,  are 
found  to  be  peculiar  to  each  narrow  territory  or  small  tribe. 

The  younger  Indians  look  on  these  things  with  contempt  and 
ridicule ;  it  is  only  when  starvation  or  sickness  impends,  or  the 
continued  threats  of  some  greedy  shamdn  create  alarm,  that  they 
pay  any  heed  to  them.  It  is  with  age  alone  that  these  super- 
stitions become  firmly  implanted  in  their  minds.  The  strange 
effects  which  firm  belief  and  vivid  imagination  have  frequently 
produced  among  civilized  and  intelligent  human  beings  arc  too 
well  known  to  require  further  confirmation.  Hence  it  is  not  to 
be  wondered  at  among  ignorant  Indians,  whose  imagination  is 
untrammelled  by  knowledge  of  the  simplest  natural  laws,  that  the 
self-deluding  frenzy  of  the  shaman  should,  as  it  frequently  does, 
produce  seemingly  supernatural  effects,  which  confirm  his  in- 
fluence. 

Among  the  Indians  who  frequent  the  trading-posts  many  may 
be  found  who  have  imbibed  a  few  indistinct  ideas  from  Christian 
theology,  without  renouncing  their  native  superstitio  or  gaining 
any  comprehension  of  the  cardinal  principles  of  morality  or  re- 
ligion. It  is  from  intercourse  with  such,  that  many  of  the  popular 
delusions  about  the  "  Great  Spirit "  of  the  Indians  have  arisen. 

In  the  present  instance,  the  Indians  formed  a  circle  around 
a  fire,  near  which  lay  the  sick  man  wrapped  in  a  dressed  deerskin. 
Larriown  had  donned  a  suit  of  civilized  clothing,  which  he  had 
obtained  from  some  trader.  He  wore  a  very  large  black  felt  hat 
with  a  broad  brim,  and  his  wife  had  a  similar  equipment,  so  that 
it  was  difficult  to  distinguish  them.  They  walked  in  contrary 
directions  around  the  fire,  gazing  at  it  or  into  vacancy.  At  inter- 
vals he  uttered  a  deep  bass  sound  between  a  shout  and  a  groan, 
which  she  answered  in  a  higher  key,  both  quickening  their  pace 
and  occasionally  stopping  short  and  shuddering  convulsively  from 
head  to  foot.  At  last  the  responses  were  more  rapid  and  assumed 
a  kind  of  rhythm  ;  the  whole  circle  of  Indians  acted  as  chorus  in 


90 


THE  YUKON  TERRITORY. 


the  intervals.  In  the  midnight  dusk  the  circle  of  tall  swarthy 
forms  in  strange  apparel,  the  fitful  gleams  of  firelight,  the  groans 
of  the  sick  man,  and  the  mysterious  writhing  forms  before  him,  all 
united  to  give  to  the  strange  chorus  an  intensely  dramatic  effect. 

Contortions  which  were  almost  convulsions  shook  those  two 
black  forms,  while  the  fiendish  eyes  of  Larri6wn  rolled  until  the 
whites  alone  were  visible.  Between  the  spasms  both  made  mes- 
meric passes  over  the  sick  man,  keeping  time  with  the  deep 
monotonous  chorus,  which  might  well  have  been  the  despairing 
wail  of  a  lost  spirit.  The  muscular  contortions  gradually  grew 
less  violent,  from  sheer  weakness.  The  ring  of  Indians  gradually 
broke  up,  the  chorus  ceased,  and  the  ceremony  was  over. 

IVcdticsciay,  $t/i.  —  We  rose  at  five,  and  putting  our  meat  into 
the  canoe  and  our  baggage  into  the  boat,  we  followed  the  Rus- 
sians out  of  the  basin.  This  is  the  only  place  on  the  Yukon 
which  appears  to  me  safe  for  wintering  a  steamer,  unless  she  were 
beached.  The  ice  descending  in  the  freshets  would  at  any  other 
point  carry  her  away  or  crush  her.  The  heat  of  the  sun  was  so 
great  that  we  lay  over  from  eleven  until  two,  and  rested  in  the 
shade  of  some  magnificent  birches.  Nowikakat  is  noted  for  the 
beauty  and  good  workmanship  of  the  birch  canoes  made  there. 
The  single  canoes  are  easily  carried  in  one  hand.  They  are  about 
twelve  feet  long,  just  wide  enough  to  sit  down  in,  and  have  the 
forward  end  covered  for  three  or  four  feet  with  a  piece  of  bark,  to 
keep  water  out.  They  are  exceedingly  frail.  The  frame  is  made  of 
birch  wood  steamed,  bent,  and  dried.  They  are  sewed  with  the 
long  slender  roots  of  the  spruce,  and  calked  with  spruce  gum.  The 
bark  is  put  on  inside  out,  shaped,  and  sewed  over  a  clay  model  just 
the  shape  and  size  of  the  proposed  canoe.  The  regular  price  for  a 
single  canoe  is  a  shirt,  or  five  marten  skins.  The  paddles  are  of 
the  usual  lance-head  shape,  with  a  ridge  in  the  middle  on  each 
side,  running  down  to  the  point  and  strengthening  the  blade. 
They  are  four  or  five  feet  long,  with  a  cross-piece  at  the  end  of 
the  handle,  and  gayly  colored  with  red  ochre,  blue  carbonate  of 
copper,  or  a  green  fungus  which  is  found  in  decayed  willow  wood. 
Tlie  single  canoe  will  carry  a  man  and  a  bag  of  flour. 

The  large  canoes  are  of  the  same  shape,  but  will  carry  three 
men  and  their  baggage,  in  all  about  six  or  eight  hundred  pounds. 
They  are  sometimes  sixteen  feet  long,  and  do  not  turn  up  at  the 


THE  YUKON  TERRITORY. 


9» 


I  swarthy 
he  groans 
ire  him,  all 
itic  effect, 
those  two 
1  until  the 
nade  mes- 
the   deep 
despairing 
ually  grew 
s  gradually 
:r. 

meat  into 
d  the  Rus- 
the  Yukon 
ss  she  were 
t  any  other 
sun  was  so 
;ted  in  the 
ted  for  the 
nade  there. 
:y  are  about 
have  the 
of  bark,  to 
is  made  of 
d  with  the 
[gum.     The 
model  just 
price  for  a 
idles  are  of 
le  on  each 
the  blade, 
the  end  of 
.rbonate  of 
illow  wood. 

[carry  three 
|ed  pounds, 
up  at  the 


ends,  as  the  canoes  of  the  Lake  Superior  Indians  do,  but  are 
straight,  and  furnished  with  a  Y-shaped  prow  above  the  cut- 
water. Each  carries  a  dish  of  spruce  gum,  some  extra  pieces 
of  bark,  and  a  bundle  of  spruce  roots,  to  repair  damages,  which 
frequently  occur ;  and  a  small  framework  of  slats  for  the  occupants 
to  sit  on. 

In  the  afternoon  we  were  surprised  to  see  a  wreath  of  smoke 
curling  over  the  trees  beyond  a  point  on  the  river.  The  small 
canoes  immediately  fell  back ;  and  Ivdn,  with  his  usual  cow- 
ardice, called  out  to  us  to  stop,  for  fear  of  hostile  Indians.  Dis- 
regarding his  warning,  we  took  the  lead,  and  saw  a  white  man 
and  two  Indians  standing  by  a  large  fire.  We  supposed  it  was  a 
guide,  or  Antoine  Houle  himself,  whom  we  had  expected  to  join 
at  Nuklukahy^t.  It  turned  out  to  be  a  man  from  Fort  Yukon, 
who  stated  that  he  had  left  the  fort  on  account  of  long-continued 
ill-treatment,  and  that  he  had  trusted  to  fortune  to  enable  him  to 
escape  from  a  tyranny  which  he  had  resolved  to  bear  no  longer. 
He  had  started  from  the  fort,  with  a  little  powder,  a  gun,  and  a 
few  bullets,  in  a  small  canoe,  and  had  supported  himself  by  kill- 
ing game ;  cutting  up  his  bullets  into  shot,  and  when  these 
failed  using  gravel  from  the  beach.  He  had  just  been  upset, 
lost  his  gun  and  everything  except  what  he  had  on  his  person. 
He  had  passed  Antoine  at  Nuklukahyit,  telling  the  latter  that  he 
had  been  sent  down  with  letters  for  us,  as  he  knew  from  Ketchum 
that  we  were  coming  up.  Antoine  had  given  him  a  letter  which 
Ketchum  left  for  us,  and  was  now  on  his  way  back  to  Fort 
Yukon  with  the  furs  he  had  bought.  The  man  gave  his  name  as 
Peter  McLeod,  and  stated  that  he  had  been  fourteen  years  in  the 
Hudson  Bay  Company's  service.  We  called  upon  him  and  Ivdn 
Pavloff  to  join  us  at  our  noon-day  meal,  and  treated  them  to 
bacon,  biscuit,  and  tea.  He  assured  us  that  he  had  not  tasted 
bread  for  four  years. 

Assuming  his  story  to  be  true,  we  could  not  advise  him  to 
return.  I  furnished  him  with  trading-goods  sufficient  to  purchase 
provisions  until  he  should  arrive  at  Nulato.  Pavloff,  with  his 
habitual  generosity,  insisted  on  furnishing  him  with  a  blanket, 
to  replace  that  which  he  had  lost,  a  flint  and  steel  to  obtain  fire, 
and  an  order  to  Yagor  to  feed  him  until  his  return.  We  all 
united  in  wishing  him  a  safe  arrival,  and  in  supplying  him  with 


92 


THE  YUKON  TERRITORY. 


such  necessaries  as  we  could  spare,  and  then  continued  on  our 
way. 

Thursday,  6th.  —  We  passed  through  an  exceedingly  long  pra- 
toka,  which  was  so  winding  and  narrow  that  I  suspected  we 
had  got  into  a  small  river  instead  of  a  slough  of  the  Yukon.  We 
had  intended  to  travel  by  night  and  take  our  rest  in  the  hot  noon- 
time ;  but  the  sight  of  some  fresh  deer  meat  in  the  camp  of  the 
Indians  who  had  preceded  us  induced  my  companion  to  defer 
this  arrangement  until  we  should  leave  the  Russians  at  Nuklu- 
kahy^t.  We  therefore  camped,  and  indulged  in  the  luxury  of 
some  hot  venison  steaks. 

Friday,  Jth.  —  We  had  hitherto  been  unable  to  use  the  track- 
ing-line, except  at  short  intervals  ;  but  the  slight  fall  in  the  water 
had  left  a  narrow  beach,  which  we  now  availed  ourselves  of 

The  little  river  tern,  whose  bright  colors  and  graceful  motions 
cannot  fail  to  attract  the  traveller's  eye,  was  very  common  in  this 
part  of  the  river.  One  of  our  men  in  tracking  passed  near  one  of 
their  nests,  and  the  parents  immediately  attacked  him.  Swoop- 
ing and  returning,  in  long  curves,  they  almost  brushed  his  cap, 
uttering  loud  cries,  and  keeping  it  up  for  several  hundred  yards. 
At  last,  annoyed  by  their  conduct,  which  he  did  not  comprehend, 
he  brandished  a  large  stick  in  the  air.  Even  then  they  did  not 
rest  until  we  were  a  quarter  of  a  mile  from  their  breeding-place. 
I  obtained  a  fine  piece  of  black  obsidian  on  the  beach,  and 
noticed  syenitic  rocks  for  the  first  time  in  the  Yukon  territory. 

Saturday,  8th.  —  About  eleven  o'clock  the  next  day  we  reached 
the  mouth  of  the  Tozikdkat,  which  empties  into  the  Yukon  some 
fifteen  miles  from  Nuklukahy^t.  Here  we  boiled  the  chynik 
and  rested  for  a  while.  We  usually  sent  one  of  the  small  canoes 
up  a  little  distance  when  we  camped  near  a  small  river,  in  order 
that  we  might  obtain  clear  water  for  making  our  tea.  The  Yukon 
water  is  full  of  sediment.  The  mosquitoes  were  exceedingly  trouble- 
some ;  without  gloves  and  a  net  nothing  could  be  done.  The 
Indians  always  placed  a  dish  of  wet  moss  with  a  few  coals  in  it 
on  the  bows  of  their  canoes  ;  this  produced  a  smoke  which  kept 
the  insects  away  from  the  canoe  when  in  motion.  We  smoked 
them  out  of  our  tent,  when  camping,  in  the  same  way. 

The  mouth  of  the  Tozikakat  is  obstructed  by  a  bar,  on  which 
lay  piled  hundreds  of  cords  of  driftwood. 


led  on  our 

'  long  pra- 
ipected  we 
Likon.  We 
:  hot  noon- 
amp  of  the 
•n  to  defer 
at  Nuklu- 
luxury  of 

the  track- 
i  the  water 
;s  of. 

"ill  motions 
non  in  this 
lear  one  of 
I.  Swoop- 
id  his  cap, 
I  red  yards, 
mprehend, 
ey  did  not 
ding-place. 
:each,  and 
:rritory. 
ive  reached 
ukon  some 
he  chynik 
lall  canoes 
:r,  in  order 
rhe  Yukon 
;ly  trouble- 
one.     The 

coals  in  it 
vhich  kept 
/e  smoked 


,  on  which 


1    ll 


i 


i 


Till 


KON     lERRITOkV. 


^^3 


•J. 

N 


To 

where 
and  I" 
This  ii 
in  spri'\. 
losc  ab<>v- 
k'likk  and 
oi  the  Yd 
view  this  v> 
much  bru.Kl' 
man  has  clipp^ 


ihr  br.  »•!  mouth  uf  the  Tanandh  River  was  acetj, 

the  \  nkon.     The  latter  curves  abruptly  to  the  left, 

i«  rn  ii<  s  the  low  laiui,  fuiming  a  point  or  island. 


'u<      Mr-  neutral  [;roiintl  where  all  ti»e  tribes  meet 

"    wnd  it  rose  the  moiintains.     Two  summits 

iher.t  iinown  by  the  Inf-lian  nimes  of  Mo-khinih- 

!,i{j-at-hn'.    The  latter  '\»  really  on  the  right  bank 

'i  the  former  on  the  left,  but  from  our  point  of 

'  per''[>tible.     At  the  junction  the  Tananah  is 

ui  the  V'lil-on,  yet  u)to  this  noble  nvcr  nc  white 

iui*  paddle. 

llelow  the  juc  tion  the  Yukon  attains  a  width  of  five  miles  at 

least     A  fair  wm<l  sprang  up,  and,  as  usual,  the  Russians  left  us 

far  behind.     By  duif  of  hafd  paddling,  about  lialf  past  five  lu  the 

i*fternoon  vsi:  rnund-"!)  the  blurt  opposite  Niik!iik.^hvci.     Utre  wc 

Ound  I'avloH,  who,  with  unexpeci-.d  (consideration,  was  waiting;  fvM" 

J*    We  crossed  togcthei,  with  our  flaj^s  flying;.     1  he  Nnklukjhy^t 

•vonf\  who  had  Wen  at  Nuldto  during  the  winter,  hatifd  us  from 

ach.     PavlotT  answered  him,  and   wc   landed,  drew  up  our 

ind  prcpareil  to  go  throuj;h  the  ceremony  fur  such  cases 

'>«ie  and  pr(jvided.     We  forme'   in  line,  with  blank  char^ies  in 

•yr  guns.     The   Indians  did  th.i  .  sa  ne.     Tiiey  advanced  on  us 

^'■uting,  and  discharged  Ibcir  guns  i.i  the  air.     Wo  returned  ih'i 

'«niplimont,  and  they  retreated  to  repeat  the  performance.     After 

minute '  of  this  mock  fi;^ht  the  tyone  appeal cvl  between  us. 

••   harangued  the  Indians,  who  answered  by  a  .shout.     Turning 

■  •!,  ho  informed  us  ihnt  wc  wv.rc  n>»w  at  liberty  to  transact 

:  asiiicss. 
^ntoine  and  bis  Indians  had  left  for  I'ort  Yukon  two  days  be- 
There  was  little  or  nchhiitg  to  eat  at  Nuklukahyet.     Some 
'lad  been  sent  by  thi-  tyone  after  moose,  and  meanwhile  the 
'  dances  which  take  place  here  were  performed  on  empty 
hs. 

iyone  came  in  with  a  5; 'tie  di'^h  o\  fat  as  a  present.     Ijc 

;•  .J  that  there  was  nothing  better  to  ofter  us,  and  i,'ave  us  a 

■-  *hich  Ketchum  bad*wrttt«n  during  the  winter;  in  it  be  r*. 

;od  that  we  would  give  the  tyone,  who  had  materially  assisted 

.»!iy  powder  and  bail  we  couid  spare.     The  pqwdfr  and  k«?' 

liwhed  by  the  Companv  vv;is  exhausted  at  NowikdkaS,  tiift  I 


■s^' 
^^^ 


0", 


THE   YUKON   TERRITORY. 


93 


To  the  east  the  broad  mouth  of  the  Tanandh  River  was  seen, 
where  it  joins  the  Yukon.  The  latter  curves  abruptly  to  the  left, 
and  between  them  lies  the  low  land,  forming  a  point  or  island. 
This  is  Nuklukahyet,  the  neutral  ground  where  all  the  tribes  meet 
in  spring  to  trade,  lichind  it  rose  the  mountains.  Two  summits 
rose  above  the  othe  known  by  the  Indian  names  of  Mo-kldu-o- 
klikli  and  Alout-klag-at-lin .  The  latter  is  really  on  the  right  bank 
of  the  Yukon,  and  the  former  on  the  left,  but  from  our  point  of 
view  this  was  not  perceptible.  At  the  junction  the  Tanandh  is 
much  broader  than  the  Yukon,  yet  into  this  noble  river  no  white 
man  has  dipped  his  paddle. 

Helovv  the  junction  the  Yukon  attains  a  width  of  five  miles  at 
least.  A  fair  wind  sprang  up,  and,  as  usual,  the  Russians  left  us 
far  behind.  Hy  dint  of  hard  paddling,  about  half  past  five  in  the 
afternoon  we  rounded  the  bluft"  opposite  Nuklukahy<^t.  Here  we 
found  Piivlofir,  who,  with  unexpected  consideration,  was  waiting  for 
us.  We  crossed  together,  with  our  flags  flying.  The  Nuklukahyt^t 
tyone,  who  had  been  at  Nuldto  during  the  winter,  hailed  us  from 
the  beach.  Pdvloff  answered  him,  and  we  landed,  drew  up  our 
boats,  and  prepared  to  go  through  the  ceremony  for  such  cases 
made  and  provided.  We  formed  in  line,  with  blank  charges  in 
our  guns.  The  Indians  did  the  same.  They  advanced  on  us 
shouting,  and  discharged  their  guns  in  the  air.  We  returned  the 
compliment,  and  they  retreated  to  repeat  the  performance.  After 
ten  minutes  of  this  mock  fight  the  tyone  appeared  between  us. 
He  harangued  the  Indians,  who  answered  by  a  shout.  Turning 
to  us,  he  informed  us  that  we  were  now  at  liberty  to  transact 
our  business. 

Antoine  and  his  Indians  had  left  for  Fort  Yukon  two  days  be- 
fore. There  was  little  or  nothing  to  eat  at  Nuklukuhy6t.  Some 
men  had  been  sent'  by  the  tyone  after  moose,  and  meanwhile  the 
annual  dances  which  take  place  here  were  performed  on  empty 
stomachs. 

The  tyone  came  in  with  a  little  dish  of  fat  as  a  present.  He 
regretted  that  there  was  nothing  better  to  otiter  us,  and  gave  us  a 
note  which  Ketchum  had  written  during  the  winter;  in  it  he  re- 
quested that  we  would  give  the  tyone,  who  had  materially  assisted 
him,  any  powder  and  ball  we  could  spare.  The  powder  and  ball 
furnished  by  the  Company  was  exhausted  at  Nowikdkat,  but  I 


'  1 

f      I 


94 


THE  YUKON   TERRITORY. 


made  him  a  present  of  a  can  of  powder  and  forty  balls  from  my 
own  private  supplies,  and  asked  him  to  keep  a  little  meat  for  us 
when  we  should  return,  \vaich  he  promised  to  do.  He  was  a 
rather  good-looking  Indian,  possessed  a  good  deal  of  intelligence, 
and  was  younger  than  any  other  tyone  we  had  seen.  He  wore  an 
English  hunting-shirt  of  red  flannel,  ornamented  on  the  shoulders 
with  large  pearl  buttons,  and  fringes  of  mooseskin.  Around  his 
waist  was  a  long  Hudson  Bay  sash.  He  wore  moccas-ns,  and 
mooseskin  trousers  cut  in  the  English  fashion,  with  fringes  down 


Young  Nuklukahyet  tyone. 

the  outside  of  the  leg,  and  blue  leggins  tied  with  a  band  of  bead- 
work  below  the  knee.  His  black  glossy  hair  was  cut  st.aight 
around  the  neck,  and  parted  a  little  on  one  side.  Altogethev, 
he  appeared  much  cleaner  and  more  attentive  to  dress  than 
any  of  the  Indians  of  the  Lower  Yukon. 

All  these  Indians  paint  their  faces.  Black  is  obtained  by  rub- 
bing charcoal  and  fat  together.  Vermilion  is  purchased  of  the 
traders,  and  supplies  the  place  of  the  red  oxide  of  iron  which  they 
formerly  used.  I  saw  one  who  appeared  to  have  used  graphite, 
or  plumbago,  on  his  face,  but  on  examining  the  article  itself  it 


THE   YUKON    TERRITORY. 


95 


from  my 
leat  for  us 
He  was  a 
telligence, 
^e  wore  an 
;  shoulders 
Ground  his 
;as'ns,  and 
nges  down 


Ind  of  bead- 
:ut  st.aight 
lAltogethev, 
Idress   than 

led  by  rub- 
iscd  of  the 
[which  they 
Id  graphite, 
:le  itself  it 


proved  to  be  micaceous  oxide  of  iron,  and  was  said  to  be  obtained 
on  the  banks  of  the  Tananah. 

They  wear  an  ornament  made  of  dentalium,  the  sookli  of  the 
Russians,  and  "  money-shell "  of  American   traders.     It  is  here 


Nuse  ornament  of  the  Yukon  Indians. 

represented  of  natural  size.  A  hole  is  pierced  through  the  skin 
of  the  nose,  below  the  cartilage,  when  very  young.  Women 
and  men  alike  wore  it  ;  while  at  Koyiikuk  we  noticed  it  only 
among  the  women. 

These  Indians  are  fond  of  ornaments,  and  among  other  things  I 
noticed  in  use  as  such  were  necklaces  of  bears'  claws  and  teeth, 
sable  tails,  wolf  ears,  bands  of  beads  and  dentalia,  embroidery  of 
dyed  porcupine  quills,  small  ermine  skins,  hawk  and  eagle  feath- 
ers, beavers'  teeth  (with  which  they  whet  their  knives),  and  the 
bright  green  scalps  of  the  mallard.  Some  wore  hoops  of  birch 
wood  around  the  neck  and  wrists,  with  various  patterns  and  fig- 
ures cut  on  them.  These  were  said  to  be  emblems  of  mourn- 
ing for  the  dead. 

I  noticed  several  graves  in  which  the  dead  were  enclosed,  in  a 
standing  posture,  in  a  circle  of  sticks  squared  on  four  sides  and 
r>ecured  by  hoops  of  green  wood,  thus  looking  much  like  a  cask. 
From  the  sticks  hung  strips  of  cloth  and  fur. 

In  the  afternoon  we  witnessed  one  of  their  dances.  The  spec- 
tators formed  a  circle  around  two  men  who  were  the  performers, 
and  joined  in  the  usual  monotonous  chorus  of"  Ho,  ho,  ha,  ha,"  &c. 
The  dancers  were  stripped  to  the  waist,  and  held  in  each  hand 
eagles'  feathers  tipped  with  bits  of  swan's-down.  Their  heads 
were  shaved,  and  bound  with  fillets  of  feathers.  The  dance  con- 
sisted in  motions  of  the  head,  arms,  legs,  and  every  muscle  of 
the  body  in  succession  ;  putting  themselves  in  every  imaginable 
posture,  joining  in  the  chorus,  and  keeping  exact  time  with  it  and 
with  each  other.     I  could  not  find  out  its  emblematic  meaning. 

We  engaged  two  Indians  to  take  the  canoe  of  meat  to  Fort 
Yukon.  One  of  them,  whom  we  had  called  Bidarshik,  had  come 
with  us  from  Novvikakat.  The  other  was  a  wild  specimen  of  the 
Nuklukahy^t  tribe,  whom  we  decided  to  name  Dick.     A  number 


96 


THE   YUKON    TERRITORY. 


if 

i 

■  \ 


of  others  indicated  their  intention  to  travel  with  us  to  Fort 
Yukon  and  trade  there.  One  of  them  had  been  employed  by 
Ketch um  the  previous  summer.  About  three  o'clock  in  trie 
afternoon  we  loft  Nuklukahyet  and  the  Russians  behind  us, 
receiving  a  salute  from  them,  which  we  duly  returned. 

The  river  was  becoming  deeper  and  narrower,  and  the  hills 
were  rising  and  approaching  more  closely  to  the  Yukon,  as  we 
ascended.     Late  in  the  afternoon  a  sunken  rock  cut  a  hole  in  the 


In  the  Ramparts, 

bidarra,  and  we  halted  for  repairs.  On  account  of  the  extreme 
heat  we  now  decided  to  travel  by  night  and  camp  in  the  hottest 
part  of  the  day. 

Monday,  \oth.  —  We  entered,  about  three  o'clock  in  the  after- 
noon, between  high  bl'iffs  and  hills  rising  perhaps  fifteen  hun- 
dred feet  above  the  river,  which  here  was  exceedingly  deep 
and  rapid  and  not  more  than  half  a  mile  wide.  The  bends 
were  abrupt,  and  the  absence  of  sunlight  and  the  extreme  quiet 


THE   YUKON    TERRITORY. 


97 


us  to  Fort 
:mployed  by 
lock  in  the 
i  behind  us, 
ncd. 

md  the  hills 
rukon,  as  we 
a  hole  in  the 


produced  a  feeling  as  if  we  had  been  travelling  underground. 
The  appropriate  and  expressive  English  name  for  these  bluffs  is 
"  the  Ramparts." 

We  were  approaching  the  so-called  Rapids  of  the  Yukon,  of 
which  we  had  heard  so  many  rtories.  The  Russians  had  pre- 
dicted that  we  should  not  be  able  to  ascend  them.  The  Indians 
joined  in  this  expression  of  opinion,  and  had  no  end  of  stories 
about  the  velocity  of  the  current  and  the  difficulty  experienced  in 


If  the  extreme 
lin  the  hottest 

in  the  after- 
fifteen  hun- 
pedingly  deep 
The   bends 
lextreme  quiet 


Looking  back  at  the  Rapido. 

ascending  them.  We  all  felt  a  little  anxious,  but  v^rere  conhdent 
of  overcoming  the  supposed  difficulty  in  fon'"  way.  We  met 
some  Indians  and  obtained  a  little  fresh  meat.  About  midnight 
we  arrived  at  the  Rapids.  The  river  is  very  narrow  here,  an(| 
the  rocky  hills  rise  sharply  from  the  water.  The  rocks  are 
metamorphic  quartzites,  and  a  dike  or  belt  of  hard  granitic  rock 
crosses  the  river.  The  fall  is  about  twelve  feet  in  half  a  mile. 
The  rapid  current  has  worn  the  granite  away  on  either  side, 
7 


IT 


tl 


98 


THE   YUKON    TERRITORY. 


forming  two  good  channels,  but  in  the  middle  is  an  island  of 
granite,  over  which  the  river  rushes  in  a  sheet  of  foam  during 
high  water.  There  are  several  smaller  "  rips  "  along  the  shore, 
especially  near  the  left  bank,  but  nothing  to  interr  ipt  steamer 
navigation,  except  the  very  rapid  current. 

Several  Indians  attempted  to  ascend  in  their  small  canoes. 
We  saw  them  reach  a  point  just  below  the  island,  and  by  dint 
of  the  hardest  paddling  keep  stationary  there  a  few  minutes  ; 
when,  their  strength  being  exhausted,  away  went  the  canoes 
down  stream  like  arrows. 

We  joined  our  tracking-line  with  several  rawhide  lines  belong- 
ing to  the  Indians,  and  by  keeping  close  to  the  rocks  succeeded 
in  tracking  over  the  worst  part  without  much  difficulty.  Taking 
our  seats  again,  we  had  a  hard  pull  to  pass  one  jutting  rock,  and 
our  troubles  were  over.  We  then  enjoyed  a  well-earned  cup  of 
tea,  and  took  a  parting  glance  at  the  Rapids  from  above.  From 
this  point  only  a  broad  patch  of  foam  in  the  middle  of  the  river 
indicated  their  existence. 

Tuesday,  wth. —  Coal  has  been  said  to  exist  in  this  vicinity, 
but  erroneously,  Ther:;  are  no  sandstones  or  other  fossiliferous 
rocks,  and  the  granite  is  immediately  succeeded  by  quartzites. 
I  found  plenty  of  wild  garlic  on  the  rocks,  and  currant  and  goose- 
berry vines  in  blossom.  The  Indians  were  attended  by  numerous 
l.'ttle  dogs,  which  ran  along  the  shore,  following  the  canoes,  and 
sometimes  swam  across  the  Yukon  two  or  three  times  in  a  day. 
These  were  excellent  hunters,  but  too  small  to  use  with  sleds. 
During  the  day  they  dislodged  a  porcupine,  of  which  I  secured 
the  skull. 

Several  women  were  with  their  husbands,  who  intended  to 
leave  them  somewhere  on  the  road  until  their  return  from  trad- 
ing. They  were  hideously  ugly  and  dirty,  —  far  worse  than  the 
Koyvikuns  or  Ingaliks  whom  I  had  seen.  They  took  chaige  of 
the  large  canoes  with  the  baggage,  while  the  husband  carried  the 
furs  in  his  small  canoe.  There  were  several  babies,  all  very  dirty, 
but  otherwise  like  most  Indian  babies.  During  the  day  they 
were  tied  into  a  kind  of  chair  made  of  birch  bark  and  packed 
v^  h  clean  dry  moss,  which  was  changed  when  occasion  required. 
:  '  e  object  itself  looked  much  like  an  ordinary  willow  baby-chair, 
but  nad  a  projection  in  front  between  the  child's  legs,  which  came 


THE  YUKON    TERRITORY. 


99 


;  an  island  of 
f  foam  during 
jng  the  shore, 
;rr  ipt  steamer 

small  canoes, 
id,  and  by  dint 

few  minutes  ; 
nt  the   canoes 

le  lines  belong- 
ocks  succeeded 
iculty.  Taking 
Iting  rock,  and 
1-earned  cup  of 
1  above.  From 
die  of  the  river 

in  this  vicinity, 
her  fossiliferous 
i  by  quartzites. 
rant  and  goose- 
ed  by  numerous 
the  canoes,  and 
times  in  a  day. 
use  with  sleds, 
which  I  secured 

ho  intended  to 
turn  from  trad- 
worse  than  the 

took  chai  ge  of 
)and  carried  the 
-s,  all  very  dirty, 
T  the  day  they 
ark  and  packed 
casion  required. 

low  baby-chair, 
3gs,  which  came 


up  as  far  as  its  breast,  and  prevented  its  tumbling  out  when 
untied. 

It  is  remarkable  that  there  are  no  terraces  along  the  river,  and 
the  flinty  rocks  show  ice-markings  only  for  a  foot  or  two  along 
high-water  mark. 

Wednesday,  \2t/t,  —  The  water,  which  had  fallen  some  two 
feet,  rose  about  six  inches  during  the  day.  The  Indians  assert 
that  this  second  rise  always  takes  place,  and  precedes  the  starting 
of  the  salmon  up  stream.  We  passed  a  dead  moose  in  ihe  water, 
and  shortly  after  the  Indians  killed  another,  some  of  the  meat 
of  which  we  purchased.  Passed  a  wrecked  canoe  on  some  shoals. 
The  next  day  we  passed  the  Yukutzcharkat  River,  which  Cap- 
tain Ketchum  had  called,  on  his  sketch-map,  the  VVhymper 
River,  in  compliment  to  our  friend  and  companion,  Mr.  Frederick 
Whymper. 

Thursday,  13///.  —  The  long  handle  of  our  frying-pan  having 
broken  off,  as  they  invariably  do  in  travelling,  it  had  been  bent, 
«o  that  it  might  be  used  to  catch  hold  of  the  pan,  put  it  on  and 
off  the  fire  when  hot,  &c.  We  were  much  annoyed  at  finding 
that  our  Indians  had  left  it  behind  at  the  last  camp.  This  may 
.seem  trivial ;  but  it  is  no  small  undertaking  to  use  a  frying-pan 
without  a  handle  on  an  open  wood-fire.  Such  acc'dents  in  an  un- 
inhabited country  bring  forcibly  before  the  mind  the  great  value 
of  many  small  conveniences  which  we  never  think  of  at  home. 
The  night  was  spent  in  tracking  around  a  very  long  bend,  which 
left  us  in  the  morning  only  a  few  miles  in  a  direct  line  from  the 
point  which  we  had  left  in  the  afternoon.  We  cut  the  skin  of  our 
bidarra  again,  but  pushed  on,  keeping  her  dry  by  bailing. 

Bidarshik  and  Mikaishka,  who  kept  in  advance  of  us,  killed  a 
large  moose,  and  we  were  well  supplied  with  fresh  meat. 

Friday,  14///.  —  Passed  a  very  small  stream  called  by  the  In- 
dians Tdtsun-ikhtnn,  or  "  Caught-in-the-rocks."  I  found  a  fos- 
sil skull  of  the  musk  ox  {Ovibos  vioschaius)  on  the  beach.  Wild 
roses,  snowballs,  and  gold-thread  were  in  blossom  on  the  hillsides, 
and  the  fragrant  juniper  scented  the  air.  A  fine  bluff,  with  a 
rocky  face  like  a  great  staircase,  marked  the  mouth  of  the  Tsee- 
toht  River  on  the  right  bank.  After  this  the  river  begins  to 
widen,  and  numerous  small  islands  occur. 

Saturday,   \  yh.  —  The   next  day  we   left   the   mountains   be- 


BlBUOTHi !:. 
OUavionsi-' 


R]' 


' 


lOO 


THE  YUKON  TERRITORY. 


hind  us.  Just  beyond  them  the  Notokdkat,  or  Dall  River  of 
Ketchum,  enters  the  Yukon  from  the  north.  The  latter  river  is 
very  broad  at  this  point.  We  passed  through  some  very  strong 
water.  Not  the  least  annoyance  in  this  kind  of  travel  is  the  con- 
stant complaining  of  the  Indians,  unused  to  steady  hard  work 
and  ever  ready  to  shirk,  doing  on  principle  the  least  they  can. 

Monday,  ijth.  —  We  enjoyed  from  our  camp  a  fine  view  of  the 
end  of  the  Ramparts  and  the  intervening  islands.  Passed  by 
several  deserted  houses  formerly  inhabited  by  some  Indians  of 
the  Kutchin  tribes,  who  all  died  five  years  ago  of  the  .scarlet  fever. 
This  fever  was  introduced  by  a  trading-vessel  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Chilkaht  River.  From  the  Chilkaht  Indians  it  spread  to  those 
of  the  Upper  Yukon,  and  down  the  river  to  this  point,  where  all 
died  and  the  disease  spent  itself.  These  are  known  to  the  Eng- 
lish as  the  Small  Houses,  and  the  locality  is  an  excellent  one  for 
game  and  fish  of  all  kinds.  The  women  were  left  behind  on  an 
island  in  the  morning,  and  the  Indians,  relieved  of  the  heavy 
canoes,  were  already  far  in  advance  of  us. 

Ttiesday,  \%th.  —  One  of  the  few  who  accompanied  us  fol- 
lowed a  cow-moose  in  the  water  until  tired  out,  when  he  killed 
her  with  his  knife,  and  with  some  difficulty  we  towed  her  ashore. 
We  occasionally  saw  a  black  bear  or  a  Canada  lynx  on  the 
bank.  For  .several  days  we  kept  steadily  on,  little  of  interest 
occurring.  It  was  noticed  that  the  trees  began  to  grow  smaller 
and  more  sparse  as  we  ascended  the  river.  The  sun  hardly 
dipped  below  the  horizon  at  midnight,  and  his  noontide  rays 
scorched  like  a  furnace.  The  mosquitoes  were  like  smoke  in  the 
air.  Through  constant  and  enforced  observation,  I  came  to  dis- 
tinguish four  kinds,  —  a  large  gray  one,  and  another  with  white 
leg-joints,  a  very  small  dust-colored  one  which  held  its  probos- 
cis horizontally  in  advance,  and  another  small  one  which  carried 
its  probe  in  the  orthodox  manner.  All  were  distinguished  from 
the  civilized  species  by  th^;  reckless  daring  of  their  attack. 
Thousands  might  be  killed  before  their  eyes,  yet  the  survivors 
sounded  their  trumpets  and  carried  on  the  war.  A  blanket  of- 
fered them  no  impediment ;  buckskin  alone  defied  their  art.  At 
meal-times,  forced  to  remove  our  nets,  we  sat  until  nearly  stifled 
in  the  smoke,  and,  emerging  for  a  breath  of  air,  received  no 
mercy.      My  companion's    hands,   between   sunburn   and   mos- 


U  River  of 
itter  river  is 
very  strong 
1  is  the  con- 
'  hard  work 
it  they  can. 
I  view  of  the 
Passed   by 
:  Indians  of 
scarlet  fever, 
mouth  of  the 
ead  to  those 
int,  where  all 
I  to  the  En^- 
illent  one  for 
behind  on  an 
of  the  heavy 


s^*Vi,;^ 


■*.    :* 


■■  V 


4lr:' 


inied   us   fol- 
hen  he  killed 
d  her  ashore, 
lynx  on   the 
le  of  interest 
grow  smaller 
sun   hardly 
oontide   rays 
smoke  in  the 
came  to  dis- 
r  with  white 
Id  its  probos- 
hich  carried 
guished  from 
their  attack. 
|the  survivors 
blanket  of- 
Iheir  art.     At 
nearly  stifled 
received   no 
n   and   mos- 


■;./ 


.  V.U    ii        .(;.,      .  , 


^r^' 


'V:  > 


•i1 


I  % ' 
-^ 


*■"  '""'"^.l'   '■    H 


r 


lOO 


THE  YUKON  TKRKITORV, 


hinfj  U3.  Just  bcyomJ  ihau  the  Motokdk.it,  or  l).x\[  River  oi 
Kclchum,  « jiters  the  Yukon  fnuM  the  north.  The  latter  river  i« 
very  brijul  at  tfiis  point.  We  passed  throngli  some  very  stroni 
water.  Not  the  least  ann())ar'ce  in  ihi.''  kin*!  of  travel  is  the  cor 
stanr  i.-'mp!aming  of  the  Indiana,  unused  ti>  steady  iiard  wor. 
an«.<  ever  ready  to  shirk,  doin^,'  om  principle  the  least  they  can 

Muntiaw  17///.  —  We  enjo)ed  from  our  camp  a  fine  view  of  tii 
end  of  the  Kamparts  and    the  intcrveninj<:   islands.     I'as.scd    b 
several  deserted  houses  formerly  inhabited   by  some  Indians  o 
the  Kut_hin  tri!x;s,  who  all  died  five  yeais  ago  of  the  scarlet  fevei 
This  fever  was  introduced  by  a  tnuhnjf-vessel  at  tl»    mouth  of  th 
» 'liilkaht  River.     From  the  Chi]k;iht   Indians  \*   -prrad  to  tho 
'fih''  I'|.<}icr  ^'.iluii,  and  down  uie  river  tu  this  point,  where  a' 
ilied  and  tlic  disea-^e  .spent  ithrlf.     These  are  known  to  tlie  ICn- 
lish  as  the  Small  Houses,  an<l  ihe  locality  is  an  cf\'celient  one  U 
pame  and  fish  of  nil  kinds.     The  women  were  left  behind  on  a 
island  in  the  morniufj;,  and   the  Indians,   relieved   of  the  hea' 
canoes,  were  already  far  .n  advaiice  of  us. 

'Iiifs<iay,  i<S//r.  —  Cjne  of  the  few  who  arxompanied  u.^  ; 
lowed  a  cow-moose  in  the  water  unid  tired  out,  when  ho  kil'n 
her  Nvith  his  knite,  and  with  .-Aome  difficulty  wc  towed  her  ashoi-f . 
We  occasionaliv  .saw  a  black  bear  or  a  Canada  1)  n.x  o\\  t'le 
bank.  For  several  days  we  kept  steadily  on,  little  of  interest 
oecurriu}^.  It  w:is  noticed  that  the  trees  began  to  grow  sma'lei 
ana  more  sparse  as  we  ascended  the  river.  The  sun  hardly 
dipjieil  below  the  horizon  at  ntidnight,  and  his  noontide  ray.s 
sqorchcd  like  a  furnace.  The  mosquitoes  were  like  smoke  in  the 
air.  Through  con'^tant  and  enforced  oh.scrvati()n,  1  came  to  di.;- 
tinguish  four  kinds. —  a  large  gray  one,  and  another  with  white 
leg-joints,  a  wry  small  dust-colored  one  which  held  its  prohos- 
'i''  h-rizuntally  in  advance,  and  anoiher  small  one  which  carried 
It'  .•r.''be  in  the  orthexlo.K  manner.  All  \\k:yc  distinguished  troin 
the  -Hafttd  species  by  ihj  r-.ckless  dariiig  of  their  attack. 
Thou-^viftt  might  be  killed  before  their  eves,  }ct  the  survivors 
founded  ^Mfce*  tnnnpsns  and  carried  on  the  war.  A  blaid<et  of 
f"Mi(}  the r  ?v'.  I'Tipedimenl ;  buckskin  alon.-  defied  their  art.  At 
nieal-times,  ■  4  -.1  ',0  remove  our  net.s.  wc  sat  until  nearly  stifled 
in  the  ^Ynoke,  ■•  '  emerging  for  a  breath  of  air,  received  nd 
mercy.      My   cott};U't«ftn's    hands,   between   sunburn   and   mos 


!m  'i 


U  Riv<;r  o' 
Lttcr  river  i* 
very  stronL 
1  is  the  cor 
I  iiard  worts 
it  tlicy  can 
!  view  of  ttv 
Tasscci    b". 
;  Indians  o' 
scarlet  fevc-i 
inmitli  of  ill' 
oad  to  thu:. 
int.  where  ali 
1  to  the  Vav^ 
client  one  U> 
behind  on  :: 
of  the  heav.' 

anied   iis   ;  ' 
'hen  ho  kilt<  1 
:d  her  ashcirf. 
lynx   on   t'le 
le  of  intenfSt 
^nnw  sniaUer 
•    su!i   liaidlv 
-•..uiitidc    ray-, 
smt'ke  in  the 
1  came  to  diii- 
■  ,  with  white 
'  its  prolws- 
wl.ich  catricf! 
riguished  Ironi 
their    attacii. 
{\v  survivors 
A  blanket  of- 
liheir  art.     A' 
nearly  stifled 
received    w 
vn   and   mov 


^ 


c 

n 

n 
a 

0 

ol 


hi 
tr 
T 
C; 
lei 


THE  YUKON   TERRITORY. 


lOI 


quitoes,  were  nearly  raw,  and  T  can  well  conceive  that  a  man 
without  a  net,  in  one  of  these  marshes,  would  soon  die  from 
nervous  exhaustion.  The  mosquitoes  drive  the  moose,  deer,  and 
bear  into  the  river,  and  all  nature  rejoices  when  the  end  of  July 
comes,  and  their  reign  is  at  an  end. 

Hoth  banks  had  become  very  low  and  flat ;  the  repion  had  a 
dreary  appearance.  Only  five  snow-covered  peaks,  supposed  to  be 
]iart  of  the  Romdntzoff  range,  rose  above  the  level  of  the  plains. 
These  are  the  only  mountains  near  the  Yukon,  in  Russian 
.America  north  of  the  Alaskan  range,  which  bear  snow  through- 
out the  year. 

The  plain  here  described  reaches  to  the  shores  of  the  Arctic 
Ocean,  broken  only  by  a  few  ranges  of  low  mountains  near  the 
coast,  of  which  the  Romdntzoffare  the  highest.  To  the  eastward 
it  rises  almost  imperceptibly,  attaining  its  highest  elevation  be- 
tween the  head-waters  of  the  Porcupine  and  the  left  bank  of  the 
Mackenzie.  This  table-land,  somewhat  broken  and  rocky,  as  seen 
abutting  on  the  Mackenzie  River  has  the  appearance  of  high 
hills.  These  are  the  "mountains"  of  Richardson.  There  arc 
no  true  mountains  north  of  the  Yukon,  except  the  Romdntzoff. 
Nothing  of  less  than  five  thousand  feet  in  height  has  a  ri^^ht  to 
the  title  of  mountain ;  but  in  the  careless  speech  of  the  Hudson 
Bay  trappers  and  traders  anything  more  than  two  hundred  feet 
high  is  a  "  mountain." 

Saturday,  22d.  —  After  passing  the  Birch  River  of  the  Eng- 
lish, called  by  the  Indians  To/nvnn-tinkdka,  we  came  upon  a 
camp  of  the  Kutcha  Kutchin'.  Camping  here,  I  purchased  a 
number  of  fish,  which  they  were  catching  and  drying.  There 
were  four  or  five  men,  a  boy  or  two,  and  five  women.  All  were 
much  finer-looking  than  the  Unakhatana  we  had  left  behind  us 
at  Nuklukahydt.  All  wore  many  articles  of  English  make  ;  one 
of  the  women  had  a  calico  drc-.s  on.  They  had  many  dogs,  all 
of  the  black,  short-haired,  long-leg^jed  English  breed. 

The  men  wore  the  Hudson  Bay  moccasins,  leggins,  and  fringed 
hunting-shirts  of  buckskin,  originally  introduced  by  the  English 
traders,  who  obtained  them  from  the  tribes  to  the  southeast. 
They  had  abimdance  of  the  fine  bead-work  in  which  the  French 
Canadians  delight,  and  which  those  women  who  frequent  the  forts 
learn  to  excel  in. 


I02 


THE  YUKON   TERRITORY. 


The  next  afternoon,  when  we  awoke  we  found  the  old  chief 
from  Fort  Yukon  waiting  to  see  us.  After  a  Hberal  present  of 
tobacco  and  a  tin  cup,  he  returned  the  compliment  by  a  small 
piece  of  very  fa'  moose  meat.  The  old  fellow's  name  was  SaUi- 
iii-ii,  which  the  traders  have  corrupted  into  Senatee.  The  heat 
was  so  extreme  that  we  deferred  our  start  until  half  past  eight 
in  the  evening. 

Sunday,  2id.  —  We  stopped  for  tea  and  rest  twice  ,  and  when 
opposite  the  mouth  of  the  Porcupine  River  v/c  delayed  a  few  mo- 
ments, to  set  the  colors  and  load  our  fire-arms.  Rounding  a  bend 
of  the  river,  about  noon  we  saw  the  white  buildings  of  the  fort  on 
the  right  bank,  about  a  mile  above  the  mouth  of  the  Porcupine. 
We  gave  them  a  hearty  salute,  which  was  returned  by  a  fusillade 
from  a  large  crowd  of  Indians  who  had  collected  on  the  bank. 
Landing,  we  received  a  cordial  greeting  from  an  old  French  Cana- 
dian and  two  Scotchmen,  who  were  the  only  occupants.  The 
commander  and  Antoine  Houle  were  daily  expected,  with  the 
remainder  of  the  men  and  the  auiiual  supply  of  goods  from  La 
Pierre's  house,  by  way  of  the  Porcupine  River. 

We  were  shown  to  a  room  in  the  commander's  house,  where 
we  deposited  our  baggage ;  and,  after  putting  our  boat  and 
equipment  in  safety,  we  turned  in  for  a  good  nap. 

The  journey,  exclusive  of  the  time  spent  at  Nowikakat  and 
Kame,.sikhter,  had  occupied  less  than  twenty-seven  days,  and 
the  disip.nce  travelled  we  estimated  as  about  six  hundred  and 
thirty  miles.  In  a  straight  line  the  distance  from  Nuldto  to  Fort 
Yukon  is  over  four  hundred  and  eighty  miles. 

We  were  much  elated  at  the  successful  issue  of  our  journey, 
and  I  confess  to  having  felt  a  pardonable  pride  in  being  the  first 
American  to  reach  Fort  Yukon  from  the  sea. 

This  trading-post  was  founded  by  McMurray  in  the  season  of 
1846-47,  and  the  original  fort  was  a  mile  or  more  farther  up  the 
river.  The  present  fort  was  commenced  in  1864,  and  at  the 
time  of  our  visit  needed  only  the  erection  of  a  stockade  to  com- 
plete it.  The  cause  of  the  change  of  location  was  the  undermin- 
ing and  washing  away  by  the  river  of  the  steep  bank  on  which 
the  old  fort  was  built.  At  this  period,  the  old  houses  had  been 
removed,  and  some  of  the  remaining  foundation-timbers  projected 
far  over  the  water. 


the  old  chief 
ral  present  of 
nt  by  a  small 
ime  was  SaUi- 
:ee.  The  heat 
mlf  past  eight 

ce  ;  and  when 
lyed  a  few  mo- 
unding a  bend 
I  of  the  fort  on 
the  Porcupine. 
I  by  a  fusillade 
on  the  bank. 
French  Cana- 
:upants.  The 
;ted,  with  the 
oods  from  La 

house,  where 
our  boat  and 
ip. 

owikakat  and 
^en  days,   and 

hundred  and 
*Iulato  to  Fort 

r  our  journey, 
being  the  first 


the  season  of 
farther  up  the 
4,  and  at  the 
ckade  to  com- 
the  undermin- 
xnk  on  which 
scs  had  been 
bers  projected 


■V.  •    <.  U 


irrrr- 

i   I    ! 


^    ^ 


!l 


W  '^ 

liiii 

' 


THE   YUKON  TERRITORY, 


103 


u 


i\ 


If, 

c 


LV, 


-ont  builc!ing;.s  cunsist  of  a  lar<rc  house,  cnnlaining  .six 

the  comnKituier  :  a  block  ui  three  houses,  of  one  room 

.he  workmen  ;  a  la!f:;e  storehouse  ;  a  kilch<Mi  ;  and  four 

OS.  or  bastions  pierced  for  musketry,  nt'thc  corner^  (if 

•   Hxl  stOckude.     Outside  of  the  fort  is  a  small  house  of 

%  belonging  to  Antoine  Houlc  the  interpreter. 

. '•  hou^^es  were  strongly  built,  roofed  with  sheets  of  spruce 

lod  and  fastened  down  by  lonq;  poles.     The  sides  were 

.  with  a  white  ni'-n:u"  uiade  from  shcll-inarl,  obtainable  in 

'•*i?^*j#inity.     Most  of  the  windows  were  of' j)arehment,  but  those 

;nmander's  liouse  were  of  glass.     The  latter  was  prnviiled 

•ii's  f,ood  plank  Hoor.s,  ai  d  ihc  doors  and  «:ashcs  were  painted 

--.with  ochre.     The  yird  was  fret:   from  dirt,  and   the  houses, 

*  J  t?ieir  white  walls  and  r-d  trimnjings,  made  a  very  favorable 
w'Tiparison  with  w--  of  those  in  the  Russian  p/sts.  "*■ 

i.  oe  fort -a  .■  ;  '  ibout  tn-o  hundred    .nl'j.s  frou^   I.i  i'ierre'.s 

'Inline,  by  thv     ji     .,,i/ie  k'ver,  the  joi*  lii'^v  \.\^c\(:  and  l)ack  hemp; 

normed  in  about  tvvc!-,;\'  da}'.-.     Further  particular,  in  K-.i^-'ard 

.{s  geographical  position  will  be  found  elsewhere.     Tiic  inha'j- 

•Us  aic  all  cm[)lo\es  of  the  Hud>;bn  Hay  Company.     Most  <.>f 

■  '."J  are  from   the  Orkney   Islands  and  tin'   rorth  of  Scotland, 

.  ,!c  a  few  arc  F,.  licb.  Catiadians,  with  a  tni.xtureof  Indian  !)iooil. 

v  ihis  time  the  garrison  eonsisleri/of  !Vir.J.  McDongal  the  com- 

.•  .dcr,  and  si,x.  men,  of  wliom  (our  were  .Scotchmen      The  Rev. 

McDonald,  a  mi.ssionary  of  the  Estnblislied  Church,  wns  also 

•  «:ted  with  the  boats. 

'fie  ue.xl  day  we  got  u|>  a  p-n  rl  hreakf.v-.t,  nnd  invited  the  three 
*h»i  had    reci'.ivcd   uf       '".\c   r<'[)ast  consisted  of  flapjnrk.s, 

•  »    •■■■\,  tea  with  su^ar,  m-i      •.  ■  -   ceat      As  'several  of  lh<  m  had 
.,?'=  :>mv.  ''-ars  wiihout   t..      ■     'read,  it  m.vv  be  ima-fi:-.'"!  this 

■  »'/i...  treat  to  them,      i  .       'u.  .or  men  and  d";^'^  it  this  place 

»;uiir,  i.  c.  drv  moose  nr'-.j.    .   'ernathiij,  with  (Uy  deer  merit, 

^    .4..»'.iy  varied  by  tVesh  "lea    >if  'i\t   same  kindv  ind  tlie  sligiil 

•(    A  ^.atnc  anr!  fish  »v'hich   s  n>w  and  then  obl.im.ibK?.     The 

-"<__  ;  ,'*<vds  which  are  desirned  f.*i    this  p>int  take  two  years 

•r  rv-iTiAr^ation   from    Yor>    Kfutf-y    or,    Hudson     Hay.     <.ine 

'■  mrr  fifty  nulo:    i.i^  to  be  made,  between    I'ort    Mc- 

h  tVel  River.       La  I'ierre's  House  on  the  I'jjptr  i'or- 


■^T^      fi«re   the   gcv 


'.re  carried  on  sleds  '\^^  winter,  arrow^ 


^i^p 


'■Ki: 


■""-^  ■'■..,.     ■■■>     #>      4-;-^     -;,','">Sifv 


c 


Ai 


'«& 


#' 


** ' 


:^*J 


,.>»•*''■' 


^^^ ' 


"v-* 


»«a 


t.:"^^ 


V' 


^M'i^_ 


•«N„ 


r."**^ 


jA^li'it. 


THE   YUKON   TERRITORY, 


103 


'Wi*: 


^■'  f '.1- 

. 

^.. 

<c 

1'.  . 

X 

~ 

''..\f^. 

oT 

;z 

,. 

i-> 

■*■■' 

/; 

^d^'' 

•  ._^ 

JjjBy 

■f'W  *'' 

-  ■  "^  ,1 , 

^ 

■■r<^^ 

''^ 

.■1;  J 


The  present  buildings  consist  of  a  large  house,  containing  six 
rooms,  for  the  commander  ;  a  block  of  three  houses,  of  one  room 
each,  for  the  workmen  ;  a  large  storehouse  ;  a  kitchen  ;  and  four 
block-houses,  or  bastions  pierced  for  musketry,  at  the  corners  of 
the  proposed  stockade.  Outside  of  the  fort  is  a  small  house  of 
two  rooms,  belonging  to  Antoine  Houle  the  interpreter. 

All  the  houses  were  strongly  built,  roofed  with  sheets  of  spruce 
bark  pinned  and  fastened  down  by  long  poles.  The  sides  were 
plastered  with  a  white  mortar  made  from  shell-marl,  obtainable  in 
the  vicinity.  Most  of  the  windows  were  of  parchment,  but  those 
of  the  commander's  house  were  of  glass.  The  latter  was  provided 
with  good  plank  floors,  and  the  doors  and  sashes  were  painted 
red  with  ochre.  The  yard  was  free  from  dirt,  and  the  houses, 
with  their  white  walls  and  red  trimmings,  made  a  very  favorable 
comparison  with  any  of  those  in  the  Russian  posts. 

The  fort  is  situated  about  two  hundred  miles  from  La  Pierre's 
House,  hy  the  Porcupine  River,  the  journey  there  and  back  being 
performed  in  about  twenty  days.  Further  particulars  in  regard 
to  its  geographical  position  will  be  found  elsewhere.  The  inhab- 
itants are  all  employes  of  the  Hudson  Bay  Company.  Most  of 
them  are  from  the  Orkney  Islands  and  the  north  of  Scotland, 
while  a  few  are  French  Canadians,  with  a  mixture  of  Indian  blood. 
At  this  time  the  garrison  consisted  of  Mr.  J.  McDougal  the  com- 
mander, and  six  men,  of  whom  four  were  Scotchmen.  The  Rev. 
Mr.  McDonald,  a  missionary  of  the  Established  Church,  was  also 
expected  with  the  boats. 

The  next  day  we  got  up  a  good  breakfast,  and  invited  the  three 
men  who  had  received  us.  The  repast  consisted  of  flapjacks, 
bacon,  tea  with  sugar,  and  moose  meat.  As  several  of  them  had 
been  some  years  without  tasting  bread,  it  may  be  imagined  this 
was  a  rare  treat  to  them.  The  fare  for  men  and  dogs  A  this  place 
is  the  same,  i,  e.  dry  moose  meat  alternating  with  dry  deer  meat, 
occasionally  varied  by  fresh  meat  of  the  same  kind,  and  the  slight 
supply  of  game  and  fish  which  is  now  and  then  obtainable.  The 
trading-goods  which  are  designed  for  this  point  take  two  years 
in  transportation  from  York  Factory  on  Hudson  Bay.  One 
portage  of  over  fifty  miles  has  to  be  made,  between  Fort  Mc- 
Pherson,  on  Peel  River,  to  La  Pierre's  House  on  the  Upper  Por- 
cupine.    Here   the   goods  are  carried  on  sleds  in  winter,  across 


I04 


THE   YUKON   TERRITORY. 


the  high,  rough,  and  broken  table-land  between  the  two  rivers. 
On  account  of  these  difficulties  in  transportation,  few  provisions 
are  ever  sent  to  this  isolated  post.  These  few  find  their  way  to 
the  table  of  the  commander,  or  to  the  Indian  tyones  who  bring 
large  quantities  of  furs  to  the  annual  trade.  The  men  should  re- 
ceive three  pounds  of  tea  and  six  of  sugar,  annually,  to  flavor 
their  diet  of  dry  meat ;  but  I  was  informed  that  this  supply  was 
exceedingly  irregular,  and  often  failed  entirely. 

The  Indian  chiefs  often  obtain  a  small  present  of  tea,  sugar,  or 
flour,  but  the  latter  is  quite  inaccessible  to  the  men,  except  through 
the  favor  of  the  commander.  These  men  are  allowed  two  suits 
of  clothes  annually,  if  the  supply  holds  out ;  but  for  anything  else 
they  must  wait  until  the  furs  are  all  purchased,  and  then,  if  any- 
thing remain  after  the  Indians  are  satisfied,  the  mei»are  allowed 
to  purchase.  Even  if  by  their  own  skill  they  trap  furs  enough  to 
buy  articles  of  clothing,  the  Indians  still  take  the  precedence. 
They  are  allowed  to  purchase  what  they  can  from  the  Indians, 
but  must  turn  it  all  in  to  the  Company,  and,  if  they  need  it,  must 
buy  it  at  Company's  prices.  The  standard  of  value  is  the  beaver- 
skin.  One  "  made  beaver,"  as  they  express  it,  is  worth  two  shil- 
lings, or  two  marten  skins.  A  man  buys  a  dressed  mooseskin, 
to  make  moccasins  of,  at  its  regular  value  of  two  "  made  beaver," 
or  four  shillings.  He  cannot  set  his  wife  at  work  making  mocca- 
sins, but  must  sell  it  to  the  Company  for  what  he  paid  the  In- 
dians, and  buy  it  back  for  tivcniy  shillings,  which  is  the  Company's 
selling-price.  If  he  does  not  do  this  he  is  liable  to  lose  all  his 
Dast  earnings  which  happen  to  be  in  the  Company's  hands,  and 
■  iice  a  flogging  beside  from  the  commander.  Every  effort  is 
made,  to  make  these  men  marry  Indian  wives ;  thus  forcing  them 
to  remain  in  the  country  by  burdening  them  with  females  whom 
they  are  ashamed  to  take  back  to  civilization,  and  cannot  desert. 
They  perform  a  larger  amount  of  manual  labor  for  smaller  pay 
than  any  other  civilized  people  on  the  globe. 

The  hardships  and  exposures  to  which  they  are  subjected  are 
beyond  belief.  In  fact,  the  whole  system  is  one  of  the  nicst  exact- 
ing tyranny  ;  and  only  in  the  north  of  Scotland  could  men  of 
intelligence  be  found  who  would  submit  to  it.  The  systematic 
way  in  which  the  white  "  servant  of  the  Company "  is  ground 
down  below  the  level  of  the  Indians  about  him,  is  a  degrada- 


\ 


V 


THE  YUKON  TERRITORY. 


105 


tion  few  could  bear.  They  are  not  even  furnished  with  good 
tools.  The  Hudson  Bay  axe  is  a  narrow  wedge,  which  an 
American  lumberman  would  reject  with  contempt.  The  Hud- 
son Bay  knives  —  at  least  such  as  I  saw  at  Fort  Yukon  — 
are  so  worthless  that  even  the  Indians  prefer  to  buy  files,  and 


Knife  of  Kutcliin  manufacture. 

manufacture  their  own  knives  from  them.  The  guns  are  all 
flint-locks  of  the  most  miserable  description  ;  and  this  rubbish 
must  be  bought  at  treb  ^  its  value  by  the  Hudson  Bay  voy- 
ageur,  in  a  country  where  the  axe  and  gun  are  a  man's  right  and 
left  hands !  There  is  some  comfort  in  reflecting  that  a  few  years 
will  put  an  end  to  this.  Free  traders  already  pass  through  the 
greater  part  of  the  Hudson  Bay  territory  without  restraint,  and 
they  will  not  be  long  in  reaching  a  district  so  rich  in  valuable 
furs  as  that  of  Fort  Yukon. 

The  sun  was  so  intensely  hot  that  in  the  middle  of  the  day  we 
could  do  nothing,  but  during  the  cooler  hours  much  of  interest 
was  added  to  my  collection  and  my  companion's  portfolio.  At 
noon,  out  of  the  direct  rays  of  the  sun,  one  of  Greene's  standard 
thermometers  stood  at  112"  Fahrenheit.  The  men  informed  me 
that  on  several  occasions  spirit  thermometers  had  burst  with  the 
heat.  In  the  depth  of  winter  the  spirit  falls  sometimes  as  low  as 
sixty-eight  and  sixty-nine  below  zero,  making  a  range  for  the 
year  of  one  hundred  and  eighty  degrees  Fahrenheit !  Neverthe- 
less, potatoes,  turnips,  lettuce,  and  other  hardy  garden  vegetables 
mature  during  the  short  hot  summer,  and  barley  was  said  to  have 
succeeded  once,  but  only  reached  a  few  inches  in  height. 

We  were  very  well  pleased  to  hear  from  an  Indian  runner 
that  the  boats  were  not  far  off.  On  the  26th  of  June,  Messrs. 
McDougal,  McDonald,  and  Sibbeston  arrived  with  the  bateaux. 
The  latter  were  about  forty  feet  long,  nine  feet  beam,  and  drew 
two  and  a  half  feet  of  water.  They  are  well  adapted  to  the 
navigation  of  the  Porcupine,  which  is  full  of  shoals  and  sand- 
bars, and  they  brought  a  load  of  nine  thousand  pounds  each  from 
La  Pierre's  House. 


io6 


THE  YUKON   TERRITORY. 


We  invited  the  commander  and  Mr.  IvTcDonald  to  be  our 
guests  for  the  day,  and  did  our  best  to  provide  a  good  dinner. 
We  found  them  to  be  typical  Scots, —  quiet,  reserved,  cautious,  but 
hospitably  inclined.  Antoine  Iloule  the  interpreter,  who  arrived 
with  them,  was  of  mixed  French  and  Indian  blood,  and  was  a  thor- 
ough voyageur.  More  independent  than  most  of  the  Company's 
servants,  he  had  his  house  to  himself  outside  of  the  fort  ;  and 
like  many  of  his  Indian  cousins,  deaf  to  the  remonstrances  of  the 
missionaries,  had  provided  himself  with  one  more  wife  than  is 
usual  in  civilized  countries.  This  was  the  more  excusable,  as  the 
poor  fellow  suffered  from  ossification  of  the  knee-joint,  and  could 
do  but  little  to  help  himself  His  house  was  always  open  to 
every  one,  and  was  a  noted  resort  of  the  Indians,  with  whom  he 
was  a  great  favorite.  With  them  he  could  talk  in  their  own 
dialects,  while  the  usual  mode  of  communication  between  the 
whites  and  Indians  in  this  locality  is  a  jargon  somewhat  like 
Chinook,  known  by  the  name  of  "  Broken  Slave."  The  basis  of 
this  jargon,  which  includes  many  modified  French  and  English 
words,  is  the  dialect  of  Liard  River.  The  nati'  name  of  the 
tribe  called  Slav6  is  AMto-tinnch,  or  "  People  living  out  of  the 
wind." 

The  next  business  for  Mr.  McDougal,  after  storing  his  goods, 
was  the  annual  trade.  Every  spring  the  Yukon,  and  other  In- 
dians who  do  not  trade  with  the  Russians,  assemble  at  Fort  Yukon, 
there  await  the  arrival  of  he  boats  with  the  new  supply  of  tobacco 
and  goods,  and  then  do  their  trading.  After  this  is  over,  the  furs 
are  put  into  a  large  press,  which  is  a  conspicuous  object  in  the 
yard,  and  pressed  into  bundles  weighing  about  ninety  pounds 
each.  These  bundles  are  covered  with  beaver-skins  of  the  poorest 
class,  and  are  pressed  so  solid  by  means  of  wedges  that,  even  if 
dropped  into  the  river,  the  water  will  not  penetrate  them.  Each 
bundle  contains  a  certain  number  of  marten  or  fox  skins  packed  in 
beaver ;  they  are  bound  with  rawhide  cut  in  strips  known  as 
"  babiche,"  and  each  bundle  is  called  a  "  piece." 

After  the  trade  is  over  and  the  furs  are  packed,  they  are  taken 
in  the  boats  to  La  Pierre's  House,  and  the  boats  return  empty. 
Any  remaining  goods  are  laid  aside,  and  sent  down  the  river  in 
the  following  spring  to  Nuklukahy^t.  During  the  remainder  of 
the  year  but  little  trading  is  done,  and  months  pass  without  an 


THE   YUKON   TERRITORY. 


107 


Indian  visiting  the  fort.  A  certain  amount  of  tobacco  is  distrib- 
uted among  the  men,  and  a  certain  amount  is  cached,  in  order 
that  they  may  not  be  entirely  without  the  article  in  the  spring. 
The  flint-lock  guns  sold  by  the  Hudson  Bay  Company  are  pre- 
ferred by  the  Indians  to  percussion  guns,  as  caps  are  not  always 
obtainable,  while  a  flint  may  be  picked  up  on  any  beach.  These 
guns  are  valued  at  forty  marten  skins.  They  cost  five  dollars 
apiece,  and  the  skins  will  average  one  hundred  and  fifty  dollars 
in  total  value. 

On  the  afternoon  of  the  27th  a  shout   was   raised  that   the 
Tanandh  Indians  were  coming.     On  going  to  the  beach,  some 


Sakhniti. 


twenty-five  single  canoes  were  seen  approaching.  The  occupants 
kept  perfect  time  with  their  paddles,  advancing  in  three  platoons, 
and  passed  over  the  water  as  swiftly  and  beautifully  as  a  flock  of 
ducks. 

Sakhnfti,  the  chief  of  the  Kutcha  Kutchin,  or  Fort  Yukon  In- 
dians, stood  on  the  bank  dressed  in  his  gayest  costume,  with  a 
richly  embroidered  blue  blanket  wrapped  about  him.  He  hailed 
the  foremost  canoes  as  soon  as  they  were  out  of  the  current. 
After  a  harangue  of  a  few  minutes  a  fusillade  was  commenced  by 


■T 


PI 


y  1 


'  ' 


1 08 


THE  YUKON   TERRITORY. 


the  Indians  on  shore,  and  returned  by  those  in  the  canoes,  after 
which  they  landed.  The  Tenan  Kutchin  (people  of  the  moun- 
tains), or  Indians  of  the  Tananah,  are  known  to  the  Hudson  Bay 
men  as  Gens  des  Buttes.  They  are  without  doubt  the  tribe  of  all 
others  which  has  had  the  least  to  do  with  the  whites.  No  white 
man  has  yet  explored  the  river  on  which  they  live.  We  only  know 
that  its  head-waters  are  not  very  far  from  Fort  Yukon,  and  that 
its  general  course  is  parallel  with  the  Yukon.  It  is  represented 
as  running  between  mountains,  and  obstructed  with  rapids  and 
cascades.  The  Tenan  Kutchin  are  regarded  with  fear  by  the 
adjacent  tribes,  and  are  doubtless  a  wild  and  untamable  people. 
Their  numbers  are  supposed  not  to  exceed  one  hundred  and  fifty 
families.  Of  their  mode  of  life  nothing  is  known,  except  that  they 
obtain  their  subsistence  principally  by  hunting  the  deer.  No 
women  accompanied  this  party.  They  were  all  dressed  in  the 
pointed  parki'es,  which  were  once  the  universal  male  dress  of  the 
family  of  Tinneh,  and  from  which  they  have  been  called  Chippe- 
wayans,  meaning  "  pointed  coats."  These  coats  were  ornamented 
in  the  same  manner  with  beads  or  quills  as  the  dress  of  the  male 
Koyiikuns,  already  described.  Their  parkies  and  breeches  were 
smeared  with  red  ochre.  All  wore  the  dentalium  nose-ornament 
previously  noted.  The  most  striking  peculiarity  about  them  was 
their  jnethod  of  dressing  their  hair.  Allowed  to  grow  to  its  full 
length,  and  parted  in  the  middle,  each  lock  was  smeared  with  a 
mixture  of  grease  and  red  ochre.  These  then  presented  the  ap- 
pearance of  compressed  cylinders  of  red  mud  about  the  size  of  the 
finger.  This  enormous  load,  weighing  in  some  of  the  adults  at 
least  fifteen  pounds,  is  gathered  in  behind  the  head  by  a  fillet  of 
dentalium  shells.  A  much  smaller  bunch  hangs  on  each  side  of 
the  face.  The  whole  is  then  powdered  with  swan's-down,  cut  up 
finely,  so  that  it  arlheres  to  the  hair,  presenting  a  most  remarkable 
and  singular  appearance.  The  dressing  of  grease  and  ochre  re- 
mains through  life,  more  being  added  as  the  hair  grows. 

The  fat  is  soon  rancid,  and  a  position  to  leeward  of  one  of 
these  gentry  is  highly  undesirable.  This  method  of  dressing 
the  hair  is  peculiar  to  the  men.  Among  civilized  nations  such 
practices  are  confined  to  the  fairer  sex.  The  gulf  between 
pomatum  with  gold  powder  and  tallow  with  red  ochre  is  not  as 
wide  as  it  seems  at  first  sight ;  and  the  addition  of  swan's- 


THE   YUKON   TERRITORY. 


109 


J  canoes,  after 
of  the  moun- 
Hiidson  Bay 
the  tribe  of  all 
es.     No  white 
We  only  know 
ikon,  and  that 
is  represented 
ith  rapids  and 
b   fear   by  the 
amable  people, 
idred  and  fifty 
xcept  that  they 
the  deer.     No 
dressed  in  the 
lie  dress  of  the 
called  Chippe- 
sre  ornamented 
;ss  of  the  male 
breeches  were 
nose-ornament 
out  them  was 
row  to  its  full 
meared  with  a 
isented  the  ap- 
the  size  of  the 
the  adults  at 
|d  by  a  fillet  of 
1  each  side  of 
-down,  cut  up 
lost  remarkable 
and  ochre  re- 
grows, 
[ard  of  one  of 
Id  of  dressing 
nations  such 
[gulf  between 
mre  is  not  as 
m   of  swan's- 


down  is  a  suggestion  which  is  worthy  of  consideration  by  the 
ladies. 

The  tribes  now  represented  at  the  fort,  beside  the  Kutchd 
and  Tendn  Kutchin,  were  the  following :  the  Naklu'  Kiitc/iin, 
or  Gens  de  Large,  from  north  of  the  Porcupine  River  ;  the 
Vinitd  Kutchin,  or  Rat  Indians,  from  farther  up  the  Porcupine  ; 
the  Han  Kntchin  (wood  people),  or  Gens  de  Bois,  from  the 
Yukon,  above  Fort  Yukon  ;  and  finally,  the  Tutcluhic  Kutchin 
(crow  people),  or  Gens  de  Foux,  from  still  farther  up  the  Yukon. 

The  tribes  resembled  each  other  in  appearance  and  dress. 
They  all  belong  to  the  fcimily  of  Tinneh,  which  is  their  name 
for  "people."  Their  habits  of  life  differ  somewhat  according  to 
locality,  but  none  have  settled  villages,  —  carrying  their  deerskin 
lodges  wherever  food  is  most  abundant. 

Those  who  live  in  mountainous  districts,  hunting  the  active 
deer  from  summit  to  summit,  are  notably  the  most  savage  and 
unruly.  Those  ■  no  live  by  hunting  the  more  phlegmatic  moose, 
which  inhabits  the  lowlands,  are  much  more  docile.  Their  lan- 
guages are  similar  in  construction  and  roots,  though  not  in 
the  forms  of  many  words.  The  dialect  of  the  Upper  Tananah 
assimilates  closely  to  the  Kutchin  languages,  while  that  spoken 
near  Nuklukahyt^t  resembles  more  nearly  the  Ingalik.  The 
Tananah  Indians  brought  the  news  of  the  body  of  a  white  man 
having  been  found  in  the  river  below. 

A  sad  event  had  happened  at  Fort  Yukon  in  the  early  spring. 
A  young  man  named  Cowley  had  been  acting  as  clerk  at  the 
fort,  and  at  the  time  of  the  freshet  was  .shooting  geese  on  an 
island  across  the  river.  He  had  crossed  in  a  large  canoe  with 
one  of  the  men  employed  at  the  fort.  He  was  a  new  arrival,  and 
not  accustomed  to  the  mode  of  life,  and  was  therefore  subjected 
to  many  practical  jokes  from  the  old  voyageurs.  Wishing  to 
return,  he  could  not  find  the  canoe,  and  supposing  that  some  trick 
had  been  played  upon  him,  the  two  embarked  in  a  very  small 
single  canoe  and  attempted  to  cross.  The  river  was  full  of  ice, 
and  nothing  more  was  ever  seen  of  them.  The  wrecked  canoe 
which  we  had  passed  in  the  Ramparts  was  doubtless  the  one  in 
question.  The  Rev.  Mr.  McDonald,  being  informed  of  the  Indian 
rumor,  immediately  started  down  the  river  with  a  companion,  to 
investigate  the  matter,  and  if  necessary  to  perform  the  last  rites 
over  the  remains. 


no 


THE  YUKON   TERRITORY. 


Among  the  chiefs  at  the  fort  was  a  man  6f  remarkable  intelli- 
gf.ice,  vvho  had  been  of  great  service  to  the  whites  on  various 
occasions.  He  went  by  the  name  of  Red  Leggins,  and  possessed 
great  influ-^nce  among  the  Indians.  I  applied  to  him  for  assist- 
ance in  obtaining  ethnological  specimens  and  vocabularies,  and 
improved  the  opportunity  by  taking  his  portrait. 

On  the  29tb  of  June  we  were  called  out  by  the  Indians,  wl:? 
said  that  Ketch  urn  was  coming.  Two  canoes  were  seen  in  the 
distance,  and  before  long  we  had  the  gratification  of  shaking  the 
hands  of  our  fellow-explorers,  and  offering  them  our  hearty  con- 
gratulations on  the  complete  success  of  their  arduous  explora- 
tions. They  had  arrived  safely  at  the  site  of  Fort  Selkirk, 
and  brought  back  as  a  trophy  a  piece  of  one  of  the  blackened 
timbers  which  remained.  They  reported  the  river  to  be  open  to 
navigation  up  to  that  point :  but  just  beyond  it  was  a  rapid, 
where  a  portage  would  be  necessary.  The  country  was  a  fine 
one,  well  timbered,  abundantly  supplied  with  moose  and  game, 
and  inhabited  by  friendly  Indians.  An  enumeration  of  the  ob- 
stacles which  they  had  encountered  would  be  out  of  place  here, 
but  it  may  fairly  be  said  that  only  extreme  patience,  endurance, 
indefatigable  energy  and  courage,  could  have  surmounted  them. 
They  were  principally,  however,  not  such  as  would  impede  a 
well-provided  party  of  regular  explorers.  We  "  laid  ourselves 
out,"  in  California  parlance,  to  get  up  a  good  dinner  for  our 
friends  ;  what  with  this  and  the  interchange  of  news  and  informa- 
tion, it  was  well  into  the  next  day  before  we  sought  our  pillows. 

Mr.  McDona'd  returned,  having  determined  the  body  to  be 
that  of  Ward,  Cowle/s  companion.  He  had  buried  it  near  the 
point  where  it  was  foand. 

After  the  trade,  which  occupied  several  days,  we  obtained 
the  necessary  goods  to  pay  our  Indians  for  the  trip.  To  those 
who  had  come  up  with  us  from  Nulato  we  gave  each  a  gun ;  the 
Nuklukahy6t  man  received  a  good  capote  ;  and  we  gave  a  knife, 
shiri,  and  powder-horn  to  Bidarshik. 

Our  diet  while  at  the  fort  consisted  chiefly  of  boiled  dried 
meat,  which  when  cooked  resembles  in  flaVor  and  stringiness  a 
boiled  skein  of  yarn. 

Mr.  McDonald  during  our  stay  performed  several  services 
among  the  Indians.     He  was  an  earnest  and  well-disposed  man. 


ble  intelH- 
)n  various 
possessed 
for  assist- 
larics,  and 

dians,  wh? 
rcn  in  the 
liaking  the 
icarty  con- 
s  explora- 
-t  Selkirk, 
blackened 
be  open  to 
Ls  a  rapid, 
was  a  fine 
and  game, 
of  the  ob- 
olace  here, 
endurance, 
tited  them, 
impede   a 

ourselves 
er  for  our 
d  informa- 

pillows. 
ody  to  be 

near  the 

obtained 
To  those 
1  gun ;  the 
e  a  knife, 

)iled  dried 
inginess  a 

1  services 
losed  man. 


mi¥' 


<r>? " 


J" 


k 


r 


I 


m:f^- 


M 


%l.V    KI-.  *.  ••.  I  NS. 


^ 


1  lO 


THE    YUKON    TERRITORY. 


Ainon^  the  chiefs  at  the  for»^  was  a  man  6f  ipmatkaMc  uitelli- 
gence,  whc^  had  been  uf  grea!,  tjcrvicc  to  the  whiles  on  various 
occ.i!;io!i  1.  Ho  went  by  the  lUfiu-  o(  Rr.l  Le^gins,  and  possessed 
great  inHueiicc  among  ihc  liid:,to.;.  I  applied  to  hiiii  for  a>sist- 
ancc  r  obtaining  ctlniologicajl  spectti)--;is  and  vucalmlaries.  :ind 
imi)r.    -.d  th'*  opporiLinity  by  taking  hi.';  portrait. 

<.)>:   ^ae  _'<)th  of  }u,)c  we  were  ca^l*;*!  out  by  ihi-  Indians,  wI;-> 
said  .'at   K<- lehutn  w.i.s^  coining.     Tsvi.)  canoes  were  S'.'cn  in  tlie 
dl'!.r;-^e.  .'ind  betore  long  we  had  the  gratilicati'm  of  .'ihaking  the 
han.:.'r-i  oi  V  -0   Jvllow-explorer.s,  and  offering  tlieni  our  iiearty  con- 
gi  t'  ilatii;;,'  >.>n  the  complete  ."ucccss  ot  their  anhious  explora 
l^'  ,^       f'l^y    l'"T^i    arrived    saiely    .at    the    site   of   I'ort    Sclkirlv, 
arid   broi:ghi.  baek  as  a  trophy  a  piece  o\'  one  of  the  blackened 
tindu  rs  wiii.  h   lenuiined.      They  reported  llie  lieer  l.)  be  open  to 
navigatior    \vp  to  that   point;    but  just   beyond    it  waj^  a   lapid, 
when:   a    portage  would  be  necessary.     'J'he  country  was  a  fni- 
one,  ui.ll  lini.berid,  abundantly  sujifdied  with  moose  and  gmn 
an(i  inhal^itcd  by  fntndty  Indians.     An  enumeration  of  th<-  oli 
siacles  which  they  hai  ei^eountcred  woul  i  be  out  of  plac^  heic, 
but  it  m:;y  fairly  be  ^aiJ  ihat  oi)ly  -  xtf(  rnc  patience,  endur.inc-. 
indtfaiiuaMe  rr.ersfv  and  couragt,  cuutd  have  surmounted  then, 
Tht  V  v,;r«:    jKineipally,   htn\ever,  not  ^tu.h  as  would    inn.^ede   a 
Vtell-i^-.M' \;ed   parry  of  regular  explorer'^      We  "  laid   ourscdv; 
out.'  in    California    parlance,  to  get   up  a  good  dinner  tor  ov 
friend's ;  what  with  ihi';  and  tlie  interchange  of  news  and  iulorm.. 
tion,  i',  was  well  into  the  next  day  before  we  Bought  our  [)illo\v:;. 

M-r.  McDonald  returned,  having  determined  the  boiiy  to  ' 
that  'rf  Wat :1,  Co  V lev's  companion  He  had  b'uicd  it  ne;n-  li 
i'oint  wh('rc  it  Wa>  ''■)und. 

After  ihe  trade,  whicl^  occupied  several  days,  wc  nlitain-  i 
'.lu  liece-'.saiy  goods  to  i)ay  our  Indian-^  lor  liie  trip.  To  tliv  . 
\ve'^  ha!  come  ':p  vilh  us  from  Nulato  wc  gave  each  a  gnu;  t-o 
S;ik  ' '-  di.et  i<):.v.  neeivt/d  a  good  caputt  ;  and  wc  gave  a  kn:te, 
iih;"    ,!•    1  >iowi!erh.  :a  to  lUddrshik. 

(.;  •  •  ; ''  vhile  at  ■•-■  iurt  con^ir^ted  chi.  iiy  of  boiled  dried 
meat,  \.  ■  .  -  •'»ben.  cooK..  i  lesianbles  in  ILi^^-ir  and  .dringinc  ^s  a 
boiled  "^L  ,r ,    >:  .;:rn. 

Mr.  Mci'  '  )..i  !utiu';  oui  stav  p''il\>i;ned  several  .'^:ervices 
among  liie  lau:.i'is      'b  was  an  earnest    lU'i  well-disposed  man, 


kahlc  mtelli- 
s  on  various 
nd  possespotl 
m  for  a.-sist- 
Lnilaiies,  :uk1 

Indians,  wl;-' 
S'-enin  the 
'  shaking  the 
r  hcartv  con- 
lous  iWjjlora- 
[•'ort  Selkirk, 
Ik:  blackoiu'd 
I,.)  be  open  to 
was  a  lapii!, 
y  was  a  fiu' 
sc  and  game 
)n  of  the  I'll 
if  pkice^  here, 
e,  cn(hiranee 
|Ouiitcd  then, 
impede  a 
lid    o'.iiseh-. 

Uf.r  UT  III 
and  inrornr. 

ir  pillowr.. 

hody   to  ' 

il.  ni'ar   w 

we   obtain-  I 

'l"o  thu^e 

'.•■   1  j^im  ;  the 

•V,;  a  kn!!e, 

luiilod    dried 
-trinj-jine^s  a 


RK  1)     I,  KC.  C.  1  NS. 


: ;d    scniees 
I -posed  man, 


|:'^ 


THE   YUKON    TERRITORY. 


■til 


a  fair  type  of  most  missionaries  to  the  Indians.  His  discourses 
were  rendered  into  broken  Slave  by  Antoinc  Houle.  In  the 
evening  the  Indians,  old  and  young,  gathered  in  the  fort-yard  and 
sang  several  hymns  with  excellent  efifect.  Altogether,  it  was  a 
scene  which  would  have  delighted  the  hearts  of  many  very  good 
people  who  i<  now  nothing  of  Indian  character ;  and  as  such  will 
doubtless  f  gure  in  some  missionary  report.  To  any  one  who  at 
all  under itood  the  situation,  however,  the  absurdity  of  the  pro- 
ceeding H'as  so  palpable  that  it  appeared  almost  like  blasphemy. 

Old  Sakhni'ti,  who  has  at  least  eighteen  wives,  whose  hands 
are  bloody  with  repeated  and  most  atrocious  murders,  who  knows 
nothing  of  what  we  understand  by  right  and  wrong,  by  a  future 
state  of  reward  and  punishment,  or  by  a  Supreme  Being,  —  this  old 
heathen  was  singing  as  sweetly  as  his  voice  would  allow,  and  with 
quite  as  much  comprehension  of  the  hymn  as  one  of  the  dogs  in 
the  yard. 

Indians  are  fond  of  singing :  they  are  also  fond  of  tobacco  ; 
and  for  a  pipeful  apiece  you  may  baptize  a  whole  tribe.  Why 
will  intelligent  men  still  go  on,  talking  three  or  four  times  a  year 
to  Indians,  on  doctrinal  subjects,  by  means  of  a  jargon  which  can- 
not express  an  abstract  idea,  and  the  use  of  which  only  throws 
ridicule  on  sacred  things,  —  and  still  call  such  work  spreading 
the  truths  of  Christianity? 

When  the  missionary  will  leave  the  trading-posts,  strike  out  into 
the  wilderness,  live  with  the  Indians,  teach  them  cleanliness  first, 
morality  next,  and  by  slow  and  simple  teaching  lead  their  thoughts 
above  the  hunt  or  the  camp,  —  then,  and  not  until  then,  will  they 
V .  competent  to  comprehend  the  simplest  principles  of  right 
and  wrong.  The  Indian  does  not  think  in  the  method  that 
civilized  men  adopt ;  he  looks  at  everything  as  "  through  a  glass, 
darkly."  His  whole  tra  n  of  thought  and  habit  of  mind  must  be 
educated  to  a  higher  and  different  standard  before  Christianity 
can  reach  him. 

The  Indian,  unchanged  by  contact  with  the  whites,  is  in  mind 
a  child  without  the  trusting  affection  of  childhood,  and  with  the 
will  and  passions  of  a  man.  Read  by  this  standard,  he  may  be 
fairly  judged.  One  fact  may  be  unhesitatingly  avowed  :  if  he 
can  obtain  intoxicating  liquors  he  is  lost.  Neither  missionaries 
nor  teachers  can  save  him  while  it  is  within  his  reach.    A  general 


112 


THE  YUKON  TERRITORY. 


S  H 


Hi    i 


glance  at  the  condition  of  the  American  Indians  at  this  time  con- 
veys only  one  idea,  which  is,  that  the  trader  outstrips  all  re- 
straints and  that  the  whole  race  is  irrevocably  doomed. 

In  dealings  with  them  they  appreciate  justice,  but  do  not  prac- 
tise it,  and  they  respect  the  strong  arm  alone.  It  has  often  been 
asked  why  the  Hudson  Bay  Company  has  succeeded  in  its  in- 
tercourse with  the  aborigines  without  the  misery  and  bloodshed 
which  has  stained  our  western  frontier.  The  inference  has  been 
as  often  drawn  that  it  was  owing  to  the  justice  which  was  charac- 
teristic of  the  Company's  dealings  with  the  Indians.  That  there 
is  no  foundation  for  this  opinion  I  propose  to  show. 

In  the  first  place,  while  the  Hudson  Bay  traders  have  had  few 
contests  with  the  Indians,  still,  in  proportion  to  the  number  of 
whites,  full  as  many  Indian  outrages  have  taken  place  as  in  the 
Western  United  States.  The  following  from  the  pen  of  Bernard 
R.  Ross,  Esq.,  of  the  Hudson  Bay  Company,  is  pertinent  to  the 
question.*     Speaking  of  the  Eastern  Tinneh,  he  says :  — 

"  As  a  whole,  the  race  under  consideration  is  unwarlike.  I  have 
never  known,  in  my  long  residence  among  this  people,  of  arms  having 
been  resorted  to  in  conflict.  In  most  cases  their  mode  of  personal 
combat  is  a  species  of  wrestling,  and  consists  in  the  opponents  grasp- 
ing each  other's  long  hair.  This  is  usually  a  very  harmless  way  of  set- 
tling disputes,  as  whoever  is  thrown  loses  ;  yet  instances  have  occurred 
of  necks  having  been  dislocated  in  the  tussle.  Knives  are  almost  in- 
variably laid  aside  previous  to  the  contest.  Some  of  them  box  tolera- 
bly well  ;  but  this  method  of  fighting  does  not  seem  to  be  generally  ap- 
proved of,  nor  is  it  much  practised.  On  examination  of  the  subject 
closely,  I  am  disposed  to  consider  that  this  peaceful  disposition  pro- 
ceeds more  from  timidity  than  from  any  actual  disinclination  to  shed 
blood.  These  Indians,  whether  in  want  or  not,  will  take  the  life  of  any 
animal,  however  useless  to  them,  if  they  be  able  to  do  so,  and  that  they 
can  on  occasion  be  sufficiently  treacherous  and  cruel  is  evinced  by  the 
massacre  at  St.  John's,  on  Peace  River,  and  at  Fort  Nelson,  on  the 
Liard  River.  It  may  not  be  out  of  place  here  to  give  a  brief  account  of 
the  latter  catastrophe. 

"In  1841  the  post  of  Fort  Nelson,  on  the  Liard  River,  was  in  charge 
of  a  Mr.  Henry,  a  well-educated  and  clever  man,  but  of  a  hasty  tem- 
per and  morose  disposition.  While  equipping  the  Indians  in  the  au- 
tumn he  had  a  violent  dispute  with  one  of  the  principal  chiefs  of  the 

*  From  the  annual  Report  of  the  Smithsonian  IiiStitution. 


THE  YUKON   TERRITORY. 


113 


Bastard  Beaver  Indians  resorting  to  the  establishment,  who  departed 
srreatly  enraged,  and  muttering  suppressed  threats,  which  were  little 
thought  of  at  the  time.  In  the  winter  a  'courier'  arrived  at  the  fort 
to  inform  the  whites  that  there  were  the  carcasses  of  several  moose 
deer  lying  at  the  camp  ready  to  be  hauled,  and  requested  dog-sleds  to 
be  sent  for  that  purpose.  Mr.  Henry,  never  in  the  least  suspecting  any 
treachery,  immediately  despatched  all  the  men  and  dogs  that  he  could 
muster.  On  their  way  out  they  met  an  Indian,  who  told  them  that  they 
had  better  turn  back,  as  the  wolverines  had  eaten  all  the  meat.  This 
information,  as  it  turned  out,  was  given  from  a  friendly  motive ;  but 
fear  of  ulterior  consequences  to  himself  prevented  the  man  from  speak- 
ing more  plainly.  The  fort  interpreter,  who  was  of  the  party,  took  the 
precaution  to  carry  his  gun  with  him,  and  when  they  drew  near  to  the 
path  which  led  from  the  bed  of  the  river  to  the  top  of  the  bank,  where 
the  Indians  were  encamped,  he  lingered  a  little  behind.  On  the  others 
mounting  the  ascent,  they  were  simultaneously  shot  down,  at  one  dis- 
charge, by  the  natives,  who  were  in  ambush  awaiting  them.  When  the 
interpreter  heard  the  shots  he  was  convinced  of  foul  play ;  he  therefore 
turned  and  made  for  the  fort  as  quickly  as  he  could,  pursued  by  the 
whole  party  of  savages,  whose  aim  was  to  prevent  him  from  alarming 
the  establishment.  The  man  was  a  famous  runner,  and  despite  the 
disadvantage  of  small  snow-shoes,  which  permitted  him  to  sink  more 
deeply  than  the  Indians,  who,  on  their  large  hunting  snow-shoes,  al- 
most skimmed  over  the  surface  of  the  snow,  he  would  have  reached  the 
houses  before  them,  had  not  the  line  that  confined  the  snow-shoe  on 
his  foot  broken.  His  enemies  were  too  close  upon  him  to  allow  time 
for  its  repair  ■  so,  wishit  g  to  sell  his  life  as  dearly  as  possible,  he  levelled 
his  gun  at  the  nearest  Indian,  who  evaded  the  shot  by  falling  upon  his 
face,  whereupon  the  whole  party  despatched  him.  After  perpetrating 
this  additional  murder  the  band  proceeded  to  the  fort,  which  they 
reached  at  early  dawn.  A  poor  old  Canadian  was,  without  suspicion 
of  evil,  cutting  fire-wood  at  the  back  gate.  His  brains  were  dashed 
out  with  their  axes,  and  they  entered  the  establishment,  whose  inhabi- 
tants, consisting,  with  one  exception,  of  women  and  children,  were 
buried  in  profound  repose.  They  first  opened  Mr.  Henry's  room, 
where  he  was  asleep.  The  chief  pushed  him  with  the  end  of  his  gun 
to  awaken  him.  He  awoke,  and  seeing  numerous  fiendish  and  stern 
faces  around  him,  made  a  spring  to  reach  a  pair  of  pistols  that  were 
hanging  over  his  head  ;  but  before  he  could  grasp  them,  he  fell  a  bleed- 
ing corpse  on  the  bosom  of  his  wife,  who,  in  turn,  became  a  helpless 
victim  of  the  sanguinary  and  lustful  revenge  of  the  infuriated  savages. 
8 


'i'i 


114 


THE  YUKON   TERRITORY. 


Maddened  by  the  blood,  they  next  proceeded  to  wreak  their  vengeance 
on  the  innocent  women  and  children,  who  expired  in  agonies  and  under 
treatment  too  horrible  to  relate.  The  pillage  of  the  stores  was  the 
next  step,  after  which  they  departed,  leaving  the  bodies  of  the  dead  un- 
buried.  No  measures  further  than  the  abandonment  of  the  fort  for 
several  years  were  taken  by  the  Northwest  Company,  to  whom  the 
establishment  belonged,  to  punish  the  perpetrators  of  the  atrocious 
deed  ;  yet  it  is  a  curious  fact  that  when  I  visited  Fort  Liards  in  1849, 
but  one  of  the  actors  survived,  all  the  others  having  met  with  violent 
deaths,  either  by  accident  or  at  the  hands  of  other  Indians.  This  man, 
who  was  at  the  time  only  a  lad,  confessed  to  have  dashed  the  brains 
out  of  an  infant,  taking  it  by  the  heels  and  swinging  it  against  the  walls 
of  the  house." 

This,  and  the  long  list  of  forts  pillaged  by  the  Indians  or  aban- 
doned on  account  of  their  hostility  *  by  the  Hudson  Bay  Com- 
pany, is  sufficient  to  show  that  their  occupation  has  not  been 
wholly  peaceful.  But  little  has  been  said  of  these  outrages,  as  it 
was  evidently  for  the  interest  of  the  Company  that  they  should 
not  be  talked  about. 

It  must  also  be  noticed  that  the  policy  of  the  Company  has 
always  been  to  put  as  few  men  as  possible  in  these  trading-posts. 
A  very  few  white  men  can  go  in  safety  where  a  large  body  would 
instantly  excite  hostilities.  After  the  fort  has  been  in  operation 
for  years,  and  a  demand  created  for  tobacco  and  other  articles, 
the  Indians  feel  that  it  is  to  their  advantage  to  have  them  there, 
and  the  whites  in  small  numbers  no  longer  excite  their  jealousy. 
Then,  whenever  a  new  post  was  established,  the  influential  chiefs 
were  handsomely  provided  with  presents,  the  whites  in  the  fort 
were  kept  in  subjection  to  the  extent  already  described,  going 
about  in  rags,  while  the  Indians  obtained  broadcloth  and  clothing 
of  every  description  for  their  furs.  This  obvious  superiority 
pleased  the  vanity  of  the  savage.  Little  or  no  retribution  fol- 
lowed the  outrages  previously  mentioned.  In  some  cases  pres- 
ents were  plentifully  distributed  to  appease  their  anger,  and  any 
offence  toward  an  Indian  was  severely  punished.  The  self-re- 
spect of  the  white  man  was  sacrificed  to  the  desire  of  obtaining 
furs.  Lastly,  the  most  warlike  and  bloody  tribes  had  been  reduced 
to  comparative  quietness  in  the  early  colonial  wars. 

*  This  includes  Forts  Selkirk,  Pelly  Banks,  Dease,  Frances,  Babine,  Peace  Rivet, 
and  others,  —  all  burnt  or  pillaged  and  abandoned. 


THE  YUKON   TERRITORY. 


115 


ine.  Peace  River, 


On  the  other  hand,  the  Indians  of  the  western  plains  were 
races  more  vigorous  and  active  than  their  northern  congeners. 
They  were  met  by  large  bodies  of  pioneers,  bent  on  settling  and 
occupying  the  territory.  Indian  outrages,  provoked  or  unpro- 
voked, met  with  speedy  return  from  the  colonists,  and  matters 
were  still  further  complicated  by  the  recognition  of  the  hypo- 
thetical authority  of  the  chiefs  by  the  government.  Promises 
were  made  by  th  .  former,  of  which  they  had  not  power  to  en- 
force the  fulfilment  by  the  Indians,  who  were  erroneously  sup- 
posed to  obey  them.  The  pernicious  system  of  making  presents 
to  the  chiefs,  the.  introduction  by  traders  of  Intoxicating  liquors, 
and,  above  all,  the  failure  of  the  government  in  any  instance  to 
enforce  respect  by  its  strong  arm,  have  created  an  animosity 
which  will  die  out  only  with  the  Indians  themselves. 

It  would  seem  brutal  to  advise  force  as  a  civilizer,  but  the 
Aleuts,  who  were  thoroughly  crushed  and  subjugated  by  the 
early  Russian  traders,  and  subsequently  by  the  Russian  American 
Company,  are  to-day  the  only  large  body  of  aborigines  in  America 
who  give  any  promise  of  ultimate  civilization. 

After  the  trade  was  over,  we  had  an  opportunity  of  looking  at 
the  results.  It  was  a  sight  seldom  witnessed  by  others  than 
traders.  The  large  loft  over  the  store-house  was  literally  over- 
flowing with  valuable  furs.  Among  other  trophies  of  the  chase 
were  forty-five  silver  foxes.  The  commander  confessed  to  five 
thousand  sables  purchased  the  previous  year.  The  men  in  the 
fort  said  that  the  amount  was  nearer  eight  thousand,  with  half  as 
many  beaver,  and  five  hundred  foxes  of  all  kinds.  Few  otter,  and 
very  few  mink  are  obtained  iiere,  but  black  bearskins,  dressed 
mooseskins,  and  black  and  silver  foxes  are  especially  abundant. 
The  value  of  the  furs  annually  obtained  at  this  post  cannot  be  es- 
timated as  less  than  fifty  thousand  dollars. 

We  decided  to  start  down  the  river  on  the  8th  of  July.  The 
women  in  the  fort  were  very  busy  filling  orders  for  mocca- 
sins, and  other  specimens  of  their  work,  which  vve  designed  for 
friends  below.  I  was  indebted  to  one  of  the  men  for  a  fine 
pair  of  otter-skin  mittens,  which  have  since  done  me  good  ser- 
vice. Ketchum  decided  to  take  a  small  boy,  Jean  Baptist:  by 
name,  who  was  well  qualified  to  act  as  interpreter  with  several 
tribes  of  Indians.     He  spoke  comparatively  little  English,  but 


H     I 


1  ; 

r             i 

i      i 
j 

lll'l 

•i* 


ii6 


THE  YUKON  TERRITORY. 


utiderstood  Canadian  French,  having  a  little  Canadian  blood  in 
his  veins. 

The  commander  coolly  proposed  to  Ketchum  that  he  should 
kidnap,  iron,  and  send  back  to  Fort  Yukon  the  unfortunate  run- 
away McLeod  !  However,  we  let  it  pass  without  remark,  for  we 
were  under  great  obligations  to  Mr.  McDougal  for  hospitality 
shown  us,  and  assistance  rendered  in  paying  our  men.  Ketchum 
arranged  it  so  that,  in  going  back,  VVhympcr  and  Mike  should 
take  the  bidarra,  while  he  and  I  had  each  a  large  birch  canoe, 
with  Indians  fore  and  aft  to  paddle  it.  Having  got  everything 
on  board,  we  shook  hands  and  bade  our  kind  entertainers  good 
by.  About  two  o'clock  in  the  mornmg  of  the  8th  we  left  Fort 
Yukon  behind  us.  A  tremendous  firing  from  the  assembled  In- 
dians announced  our  departure,  and  we  returned  the  compliment 
to  the  best  of  our  ability. 

Travelling  down  stream  is  always  easy.  Our  journey  seemed 
easier  still  us,  in  the  broad  channel,  out  of  reach  of  the  mosquitoes, 
we  drifted  on  without  impediment  at  the  rate  of  four  or  five  miles 
an  hour.  Points  appeared,  were  passed,  and  faded  out  of  view, 
almost  without  our  perceiving  it  ;  while  between  them,  going  up, 
we  had  passed  many  hours  of  hard  paddling  in  the  hot  sun.  No 
sand-bars  or  shoal  water  obstructed  our  progress  anywhere,  ex- 
cept where  the  swift  current  brought  us  close  to  the  bank.  We 
tied  our  canoes  together,  and  floated  down,  ■  ometimes  sleeping, 
and  often  in  a  revery  which  recalled  the  lotus-caters  of  the  Nile. 
We  did  not  camp  anywhere.  We  boiled  the  chynik  and  cooked 
our  meals  ashore,  and,  pushing  out  into  the  broad  stream,  ate 
them  while  calmly  drifting  with  the  current.  Sometimes  the 
mosquitoes  would  try  to  follow  us,  and  we  could  see  them  vainly 
endeavoring  to  make  headway  against  the  fresh  breeze  usually  to 
be  found  in  midstream.  They  were  always  unsuccessful,  and  we 
discarded  our  nets  and  laughed  at  the  discomfited  insects.  About 
three  o'clock  in  the  afternoon  of  the  9th  we  re-entered  the  Ram- 
parts, and  here,  in  the  swifter  current,  our  progress  was  more  rapid. 

Large  fires  were  burning  in  the  forests,  and  on  the  sides  of  the 
hills.  They  had  been  kindled  by  some  neglected  camp-fire,  and 
spread  rapidly  over  the  mossy  sod  and  leaves  dried  by  the  mid- 
summer sun.  The  smoke  hung  o  rer  all  the  country,  obscuring 
everything  with  a  lurid  haze. 


5 

^ 

« 


THE  YUKON  TERRITORY. 


117 


ian  blood  in 

\t  he  should 
rtunate  run- 
imark,  for  we 
)r  hospitality 
1.  Ketchum 
Mike  should 
birch  canoe, 
)t  everything 
rtainers  good 
we  left  Fort 
issembled  In- 
:  compliment 

irney  seemed 
le  mosquitoes, 
r  or  five  miles 
I  out  of  view, 
em,  going  up, 
hot  sun.     No 
nywherc,  ex- 
le  bank.     We 
nes  sleeping, 
of  the  Nile. 
and  cooked 
.1  stream,  ate 
imetimcs  the 
them  vainly 
;e  usually  to 
ssful,  and  we 
cts.     About 
d  the  Ram- 
Is  more  rapid, 
sides  of  the 
mp-fire,  and 
by  the  mid- 
y,  obscuring 


About  six  o'clock  on  the  afternoon  of  the  loth  we  passed  the 
Rapids.  The  water  had  fallen,  and  wc  should  not  have  known 
the  place  but  for  the  Indiaiij.  One  of  the  party  refused  to  believe 
it.  A  long  island  of  rock,  smoothed  by  the  water,  divided  the 
river,  which  flowed  smoothly  but  with  great  swiftness  on  either 
side.  The  riffle  which  had  attracted  most  of  our  attention  had 
been  caused  by  an  insignificant  ledge  of  rock,  now  bare.  The 
difference  between  the  level  of  the  ice  in  winter  and  extreme  high- 
water  mark,  as  indicated  on  the  rocks,  cannot  be  much  less  than 
thirty  feet.  Some  distance  below  wc  found  the  Nuklukahyet 
chief  and  his  people  fishing  for  salmon  with  large  hand-nets. 
The  little  canoes  sailed  down  stream  with  the  current,  the  Indians 
keeping  in  line  like  soldiers,  and  joining  in  a  monotonous  but  not 
discordant  chorus.  At  a  given  signal,  all  plunged  their  nets  be- 
low the  surface,  and  on  raising  them  a  great  salmon  frequently 
was  seen  struggling  in  the  meshes.  In  this  case  all  joined  in  a 
derisive  shout  and  song.  The  dried  meat  which  the  chief  had 
promised  was  not  forthcoming.  A  "cash"  business  is  the  only 
safe  one  with  Indians.  They  never  pay  old  debts,  giving  as  a 
reason  that  the  articles  purchased  are  already  worn  out. 

We  had  a  good  deal  of  amusement  chasing  the  young  geese. 
Their  wing  feathers  not  being  grown,  they  could  not  fly ;  but  they 
wore  very  expert  divers,  and  were  beneath  the  water  almost  as  soon 
as  the  cap  flashed.  We  obtained  quite  a  number,  and  found  them 
very  delicate  eating.  We  passed  numerous  fishing-camps,  where 
the  banks  were  red  with  the  salmon,  split  and  hung  up  to  dry. 

About  eight  o'clock  oi\  the  evening  of  the  12th  we  arrived  at 
the  bluffs  above  Nuhito.  Here  old  Yagorsha,  the  Yakut,  was  fish- 
ing, and  hailed  us  from  the  bank.  He  told  us  that  the  whole  of 
Russian  America  had  bet  n  bought  by  an  American  company,  and 
that  an  American  ship  an.'  steamer  were  already  at  the  Redoubt ! 
The  pleasure  which  we  felt  at  this  intelligence  was  marred  by 
doubts  of  its  truth  ;  but,  passing  on,  about  ten  o'clock  we  arrived 
at  Nukito.  Here  the  air  resounded  with  the  discharges  of  cannon, 
which  welcomed  our  return.  Indians  and  Russians  vied  in  the 
expenditure  of  gunpowder,  and  the  enthusiastic  Kuri'lla  used  up 
all  his  ammunition  in  returning  the  salute. 

Our  delight  was  soon  damped,  however,  by  an  incompre- 
hensible order  which  awaited  us.     This  instructed  us  to  trans- 


III! 


1,1  ( 


is8 


THE  YUKON   TERRITORY. 


mit,  without  delay,  all  movable  property  belonging  to  the  Tele- 
graph Company  to  the  Redoubt.  Various  rumors  about  the  sale 
of  the  country  were  current  among  the  Russians.  Nothing  was 
certain,  and  one  of  them  remarked  to  me  with  a  sneer,  "  Perhaps, 
Gospodin  Doctor,  it  is  the  Americans,  and  not  the  Russians,  who 
are  about  to  march  ! " 

The  Koyukuiis  occupied  the  beach,  fishing,  and  with  character- 
istic insolence  took  fish  out  of  the  Russian  nets  before  their  eyes. 
The  latter  were  too  few  in  number  to  resent  the  insult,  the 
bidarshik  and  two  men  being  absent  at  the  Redoubt. 

We  proceeded  to  carry  out  our  instructions,  purchasing  the 
large  Russian  bidarra,  putting  all  the  collections  and  other 
valuable  property  aboard,  and  hiring  six  men  to  accompany  us 
to  the  sea-coast.  Near  midnight,  July  15th,  we  started  down 
the  river,  full  of  anxiety,  not  knowing  what  changes  were  at 
hand. 

The  river  was  lined  with  Indian  fishing-camps  laying  in  the 
winter  supplies  of  ukali.  Had  we  possessed  the  necessary  trad- 
ing-goods and  transportation,  we  might  have  bought  thousands  of 
salmon. 

On  the  night  of  the  17th  we  saw  the  first  star  visible  since  the 
end  of  April.  On  the  19th  of  July,  about  eleven  o'clock  at  night, 
we  felt  a  shock  as  if  we  had  struck  a  snag.  Next  morning  we 
arrived  at  the  Russian  mission  of  the  Greek  Catholic  Church. 
There  we  learned  that  there  had  been  an  earthquake  shock  in 
the  night,  of  sufficient  severity  to  throw  down  books  and  other 
articles  from  the  shelves  on  which  they  were  placed.  The  priest, 
or  "  Pope  "  as  the  Russians  call  him,  with  most  of  the  Russians 
who  belonged  here,  was  absent  at  the  Redoubt.  In  this  part  of 
the  river  the  channel  is  deep  enough  for  vessels  of  any  size.  It 
is  extremely  broad,  the  low  left  bank  being  sometimes  barely 
visible.  Sloughs  and  innumerable  islands  characterize  this  por- 
tion of  the  Yukon. 

The  weather  was  much  of  it  hot,  cloudy,  and  disagreeable, 
with  occasional  rain,  forming  a  marked  contrast  to  that  which 
we  had  experienced  farther  inland.  The  white-winged  gull 
{Lartts  laicopterus)  replaces  the  familiar  silver  gull  (Z,.  argentatus) 
of  the  Upper  Yukon.  On  the  morning  of  the  22d  we  saw  numer- 
ous leopard  seal  {nerj>a)  sporting  in  the  river.     Seal  have  been 


THE    YUKON    TKRRITORY. 


119 


occasionally  seen  at  Nuldto,  and  on  one  occasion  a  white  whale 
or  Beluga  was  killed  only  a  few  miles  below  Nuldto,  at  least  four 
hundred  miles  from  salt  water.  About  five  o'clock  the  same  day 
we  reached  the  post  of  Andreaffsky,  occupied  by  two  men  only, 
one  of  them  a  native.  The  other  received  us  as  hospitably  as  his 
means  would  allow,  and  spread  us  a  repast  of  salted  salmon  and 
bread.  We  made  his  heart  glad  by  a  present  of  some  tea,  as  his 
own  supply  was  exhausted,  and  borrowed  his  assistant  to  guide 
us  to  the  Uphoon,  or  northernmost  mouth  of  the  Yukon,  by 
which  the  sea-coast  is  reached.  A  strong  breeze  arose,  and  we 
scudded  before  it,  reaching  the  Uphoon  and  dismissing  our  guide 
about  three  o'clock  the  ne.xt  morning. 

About  noon  we  reached  a  Russian  house  at  Kiitlik,  whose  in- 
mates were  absent  at  the  Redoubt.  Five  channels  leading  in 
different  directions  misled  us,  and  we  pulled  nearly  ten  miles  up 
a  small  river,  until  the  tide  turned  and  we  saw  our  mistake. 
The  next  trial  was  more  successful,  and  we  soon  reached  Pastolik, 
an  Eskimo  village  opposite  the  Uphoon-mouth,  where  we  camped 
ashore  for  the  first  time  since  leaving  Nulato. 

The  next  morning  we  divided  our  load,  hiring  another  bidarrd 
and  some  Unali'gmut  Eskimo  to  assist  us  in  our  voyage  along  the 
sea-coast  to  St.  Michael's.  At  noon  we  reached  Point  Romdnoff, 
the  Cape  Shallow  Water  of  Cook.  This  is  the  only  hill  or  land- 
mark north  of  Cape  Romdnzoff  on  the  coast.  Here  is  a  small 
village  of  a  few  huts,  where  we  purchased  some  fish  and  game. 

About  two  o'clock  in  the  morning  of  the  25th  we  reached 
the  southeastern  entrance  of  the  Canal  between  St.  Michael's 
Island  and  the  mainland.  Here  we  stopped  and  arrayed  our- 
selves in  apparel  more  suitable  for  civilized  society.  We  tracked 
through  the  Canal,  hoisted  our  flags,  and  bore  away  for  the 
Redoubt  with  a  light  wind.  Here  we  arrived  about  noon  of 
July  25th,  finding  all  the  members  of  the  exploring  and  con- 
structing parties  gathered  to  receive  us.  The  news  was  soon 
cold. 

The  Atlantic  cable  was  a  triumphant  success.  The  United 
States  were  in  negotiation  for  the  purchase  of  Russian  America. 
Our  costly  and  doubtful  enterprise  was  abandoned,  and  the 
bark  Clara  Bell  was  soon  expected,  to  take  all  hands  to  San 
Francisco.     The  ill-fed  and  hard-worked  constructors  hailed  their 


'in! 


■■ 


1 20 


THE   YUKON   TERRITORY. 


deliverance  with  joy;  but  the  weather-beaten  explorers,  with  their 
carefully  matur:d  plans  for  more  thorough  and  extended  explo- 
rations during  'he  coming  year,  felt  a  regret  and  disappointment 
which  could  hardly  be  over-estimated,  as  with  a  few  words  these 
prospects  were  destroyed.  There  was,  of  course,  nothing  to  be 
done  but  to  pitch  our  tents  on  the  beach,  and  there  await  the  re- 
turn of  the  vessel,  now  absent  in  search  of  the  parties  which  had 
been  left  at  Grantley  Harbor,  Bering  Strait.  • 


I     I 


CHAPTER     IV. 

Arrival  of  the  vessel.  —  Arrange  to  remuin  in  the  country.  —  Departure  of  the  Clara 
bell.  —  Mushrooms.  —  Plans  for  the  season.  —  Start  for  Unalaklik.  —  The  Major's 
Cove.  —  Voyage  to  Kcgiktowruk.  —  Description  of  the  casine.  —  Knd  of  the  old 
bidarra.  —  Leave  Kegiktowruk.  —  Crossing  the  bar  of  the  Unalaklik  River.  —  .Send 
back  for  the  goods.  —  Trip  to  Uliikuk.  —  Death  of  .Stareek.  —  Hears  and  bear-hunt- 
ing. —  Geological  reconnoissance,  and  discovery  of  fossils.  —  Kcturn  to  Unalaklik.  — 
Purchasing  winter  supplies.  —  Innuit  of  Norton  Sound.  — Tribes,  physique,  games, 
kyaks. —  Disposition,  mo.i  ity,  marriages,  and  infanticide.  —  Treatment  of  the 
women,  and  work  allotted  to  the  sexes.  —  Dress,  labrcts  of  the  ditlerent  tribes. — 
Property,  method  of  computation,  and  map-drawing.  —  Fire-drills. —  Weapcuis  of 
bone,  flint,  and  ivory.  —  Guns  and  trading.  —  Intercourse  with  Indians,  and  boan- 
dary  lines  of  their  territory.  —  Shamanism.  —  Patron  sjjirits.  —  Interment  of  the 
dead.  —  Ifabits,  and  r.icans  of  gaining  subsistence  throughout  the  year.  —  Dances 
and  festivals.  —  Arrival  of  my  new  bidarra.  —  Sudden  illness,  and  departure  for  the 
Redoubt.  —  Storm  and  detention  at  Kegiktowruk.  —  Proceed  to  the  Redoubt 
on  foot.  —  Return  to  Unalaklik.  —  Kill  a  deer.  —  Cowardly  abuse  of  the  natives  by 
the  Russians.  —  Kamokiii  an''  his  barbarity  to  the  sick.  —  Deaths  in  the  village.  — 
Making  dog-harness. 


ALONG  month  passed  by  and  brought  no  signs  of  the 
ship.  A  party  of  seven  bidarras,  manned  with  Okeeogenuits 
and  other  Bering  Strait  Innuit,  arrived  at  St.  Michael's.  They 
brought  the  news  that  the  Grantley  Harbor  parties  had  safely 
embarked,  and  departed.  We  began  to  fear  that  some  accident 
had  happened  to  the  vessel.  Our  daily  walk  was  invariably  to 
the  northeast  bluff,  whence  we  could  look  seaward.  A  pound  of 
tobacco  was  promised  to  the  first  person  who  should  see  the  ship. 
About  three  o'clock  in  the  afternoon  of  the  1 8th  of  August  an 
old  woman  came  breathless  from  the  bluff,  saying  the  .ship  was 
coming.  All  started  to  confirm  the  report,  which  proved  true,  and 
the  venerable  Martha  was  made  the  recipient  of  more  tobacco 
than  she  had  ever  before  possessed. 

It  was  the  Clara  Bell,  and  about  eight  o'clock  she  anchored  in 
the  bay.  I  had  by  this  time  become  pretty  well  versed  in  colonial 
Russian,  as  spoken  in  the  territory.  I  had  also  some  knowledge  of 
the  Innuit  and  Indian  dialects,  and  understood  the  mode  of  life 


liS: 


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THE   YUKON   TERRITORY. 


necessary  in  the  Yukon  Territory.  I  had  formed  my  plans,  and 
immediately  took  the  opportunity  of  explaining  them  to  Major 
George  M.  Wright,  adjutant  of  the  Expedition,  and  now  in  charge 
of  all  the  men  and  materials  which  were  to  be  shipped  on  board 
the  Clara  Hell. 

A  pretty  thorough  reconnoissance  had  been  made  of  the  geology 
and  natural  history  of  the  Yukon  above  and  at  Nulato,  and  v.-.. 
th-*  shores  of  Norton  Sound.  The  Lower  Yukon  and  the  delta 
had  yet  to  be  examined.  I  felt  unwilling  that  the  plans  of  Mr. 
Kennicott,  so  far  carried  on  successfully,  should  be  left  uncom- 
pleted. I  therefore  proposed  to  carry  them  out  alone,  and  at  my 
own  expense,  and  relied  on  Major  Wright  for  the  co-operation  ne- 
cessary to  accomplish  this  arrangement.  With  his  characteristic 
politeness  he  agreed  to  do  what  lay  in  his  power.  He  could  leave 
me  no  provisions,  as  they  were  already  short  of  them.  He  could 
sell  me,  at  the  Company's  prices,  a  small  amount  of  trading-goods, 
and  he  would  pay  a  certain  proportion  of  the  salary  due  me  from 
the  Cotiipany  into  the  hands  of  Stepanoff  (the  chief  factor  of  the 
Russian  American  Company  at  St.  Michael's),  who  could  furnish 
me  wit'.'  some  trading-goods  and  a  limited  supply  of  provisions  ; 
while  for  the  rest  I  must  depend  upon  the  natural  resources  of  the 
country. 

Explaining  to  Stepanoff  that  I  had  no  desire  to  interfere  with 
the  fur-trade,  he  expressed  himself  willing  to  co-operate  with  me, 
and  the  proposed  arrangement  was  carried  into  effect. 

To  my  companions  of  the  previous  year,  and  to  the  officers  of 
the  vessel,  I  was  greatly  indebted  for  many  articles  useful  in  the 
country,  and  otherwise  unattainable.  The  boy  who  had  been 
brought  from  Fort  Yukon  was  left  in  my  care  to  be  sent  home. 
My  mail  was  made  up  for  transmission  by  the  vessel  to  San  Fran- 
cisco •  the  Reports  on  the  Medical  Department  and  the  Scien- 
tific Corps  were  placed  in  the  adjutant's  hands.  The  collections 
of  the  previous  year  were  also  sent  aboard.  I  depended,  for  the 
means  of  reaching  civilization  again,  on  some  passing  trader  or 
the  annual  store-ship  of  the  Russians.  On  the  23d  of  August 
everything  was  concluded,  and  I  went  on  board  and  bade  all  hands 
good  by.  I  returned,  with  the  boy  Johnny  and  Stepanoff,  in  the 
Russian  boat.  About  four  o'clock  in  the  afternoon  the  Clara 
Bell  stood  out  to  sea. 


THE   YUKON   TERRITORY. 


123 


ly  plans,  and 
mi  to  Major 
low  in  charge 
)ed  on  board 

f  the  geology 
ilato,  and  v.'.i 
and  the  delta 
plans  of  Mr. 
^  left  uncom- 
e,  and  at  my 
operation  ne- 
characteristic 
e  could  leave 
n.  He  could 
rading-goods, 
due  me  from 
factor  of  the 
could  furnish 
)f  provisions  ; 
sources  of  the 


interfere  with 
rate  with  me, 

le  officers  of 
useful  in  the 
10  had  been 
le  sent  home, 
to  San  Fran- 
the  Scien- 
collections 
nded,  for  the 
ng  trader  or 
d  of  August 
de  all  hands 
anoff,  in  the 
n  the  Clara 


As  I  saw  her  white  sails  disappear  in  the  distance  I  realized 
more  thoroughly  the  loneliness  of  my  position,  and  that  I  was  the 
only  person  in  the  whole  of  that  portion  of  the  territory  who  spoke 
English.  If  I  needed  companions,  I  must  seek  them  among  alien 
convicts  or  Indians,  in  a  foreign  tongue. 

Returning  to  my  room  in  the  fort,  I  soon  stifled  any  feeling 
of  regret  by  busying  myself  in  putting  on  paper  a  brief  sketch 
of  my  plan  of  exploration  for  the  coming  year. 

Stepanoff  called  me,  saying  that  there  was  no  meat  or  other 
fresh  provisions  in  the  fort,  and  we  must  go  out  and  get  some- 
thing for  dinner.  At  first  I  took  down  my  gun,  but  he  informed 
me  that  it  was  unnecessary,  and  after  walking  a  short  distance  he 
pointed  out  various  fungi,  which  he  assured  me  were  eatable. 
Tlicy  were  of  two  or  three  species,  all  poisonous  in  our  climate ; 
but  in  this  extreme  northern  region  they  proved  to  be  innocuous 
and  eatable,  though  quite  tasteless. 

During  our  walk  we  came  to  a  definite  conclusion  on  the  sub- 
ject of  fur-trading.  Stepanoff  said  that  he  did  not  believe  in  the 
rumor  which  prevailed  as  to  the  sale  of  the  country  ;  that  his 
duty  to  the  Russian  American  Company  would  compel  him  to 
prevent  any  one  from  trading  except  the  authorized  employes  of 
the  Company  ;  that  when  the  official  information  should  arrive  I 
might  trade  as  much  as  I  chose,  but  until  then  I  must  refrain. 
I  assured  him  that  trading  was  not  my  object  in  remaining  in  the 
country,  and  that  I  would  not  do  anything  of  the  kind  until  he 
had  received  definite  information.  The  latter  might  be  expected, 
if  at  all,  by  a  midwinter  courier  from  Nushergak  to  the  Kulma- 
koff  Redoubt  on  the  Kuskoqui'm.  Such  couriers  had  been  sent 
on  rare  and  important  occasions,  and  a  mail  was  always  sent  to 
Nushergak  from  St.  Michael's  every  December. 

Stepanoff  begged  me  to  consider  myself  his  guest  while  at  the 
Redoubt,  and  offered  to  have  any  orders  sent  to  Nulato  in  regard 
to  the  building  in  which  we  had  spent  the  previous  winter,  if  I 
desired  to  use  it  during  the  coming  season. 

My  plans  were  as  follows  :  First,  to  examine  the  rocks  along 
the  shores  of  Norton  Sound  and  across  the  portage  as  thoroughly 
as  possible.  Next,  to  take  my  trading-goods  and  such  provisions 
as  I  could  obtain  to  Nulato  ;  spend  the  winter  in  making  explora- 
tions in  that  vicinity,  and.  if  possible,  make  a  winter  visit  to  Kot- 


f 


liii 


i':\ 


ml 


111 


124 


THE  YUKON  TERRITORY. 


zebue  Sound  ;  to  take  a  boat  across  the  portage  and  descend  the 
Yukon  in  the  spring,  examining  the  rocks  carefully,  and  making 
as  thorough  collections  as  possible  of  specimens  of  natural  his- 
tory ;  to  spend  some  time  at  the  Yukon-mouth  ;  and  finally 
return  by  ^ea  to  the  Redoubt,  and  there  await  some  opportunity 
of  getting  a  passage  to  Sitka  or  San  Francisco  with  the  collec- 
tions. 

I  therefore  requested  Stepanoff  to  order  Ivan  Pavloff  to  have 
the  house  put  in  thorough  repair,  the  seams  calked,  floor  put  in 
order,  and  the  peechka  replastered.  The  building  at  Fort  Kcn- 
nicott  was  too  large  and  too  cold  to  be  readily  made  habitable. 
The  orders  were  sent  by  Kun'lla,  whom  I  engaged  as  my  per- 
manent assistant.  He,  with  Antoshka  and  Tekunka,  started  for 
Nulato  via  Unalakl  k,  in  the  three-holed  bidarka  in  which  Dyer 
had  descended  the  Yukon.  Kun'lla  was  to  get  our  dogs  and  sleds 
together,  hire  Indians,  buy  likali  for  dog-feed,  and  meet  me  at 
Unalakli'k  as  soon  as  ihe  Yukon  was  ice-bound.  Then  we  would 
proceed  together  to  Nulato.  I  furnished  him  with  the  necessary 
Irading-goods  for  purchasing  dog-feed  and  hiring  Indians,  and  he 
departed  in  high  spirits  at  the  responsibility  intrusted  to  him. 

One  day  when  Stepanotf  was  away  shooting,  on  the  marshes 
about  the  Canal,  one  of  the  Russians  came  to  me  with  a  sable,  for 
which  he  wanted  alcohol.  I  refused  him,  and  added  that  I  had 
promised  Stepanoff  not  to  purchase  furs,  and  should  keep  my 
word.  The  meaning  of  truth  and  honesty  is  incomprehensible  to 
these  degraded  wretches,  and  he  still  urged  me,  saying  Stepanoff 
would  never  hear  of  it.  As  he  did  not  take  any  notice  of  re- 
peated refusal,  I  became  at  last  so  angry  that  I  pitched  him  heels 
over  head  out  of  the  door  and  down  the  steps,  into  the  muddy 
courtyard,  greatly  to  the  amusement  of  old  Martha,  who  had 
just  previously  brought  in  some  work,  and  was  waiting  for  her 
pay. 

Life  among  the  natives  is  far  preferable  to  being  surrounded 
by  white  men  of  such  a  despicable  class.  It  is  not  to  be  won- 
dered at  that  the  knout  and  the  brand  were  formerly  in  use  in 
Russia.  Nothing  else  would  seem  capable  of  inspiring  a  respect 
for  the  law  in  such  minds. 

My  time  was  passed  in  running  lead  into  balls,  adding  to  the 
collection,  and  making  general  preparations  for  starting  for  Una- 


lal 
the 


THE   YUKON   TERRITORY. 


125 


descend  the 

and  making 

natural  his- 

and  finally 

:  opportunity 

;h  the  collec- 

ivloff  to  have 

floor  put  in 

at  Fort  Ken- 

de  habitable. 

>  as  my  per- 

i,  started  for 

which  Dyer 

)gs  and  sleds 

meet  me  at 

en  we  would 

he  necessary 

iians,  and  he 

1  to  him. 

the  marshes 

h  a  sable,  for 

I  that  I  had 

lid  keep  my 

ahensible  to 

g  Stepanoff 

otice  of  rc- 

d  him  heels 

the  muddy 

a,  who  had 

ting  for  her 

surrounded 
to  be  won- 
rly  in  use  in 
ig  a  respect 

ding  to  the 
ng  for  Una- 


re 


i 


I 


lakli'k  as  soon  as  any  natives  should  arrive  from  Pastolik,  where 
they  were  hunting  the  beluga. 

I  accompanied  Stepanoff  on  several  of  his  shooting  expeditions 
in  the  Canal,  and  secured  a  large  number  of  geese,  ducks,  and 
swans.  These  are  salted,  and  form  an  acceptable  addition  to  the 
winter  fare. 

On  September  22d  I  purchased  my  supplies,  including  six 
hundred  pounds  of  flour,  twenty-five  of  tea,  fifty  of  sugar,  and  a 
variety  of  trading-goods.  I  alj^  laid  in  a  supply  of  crockery  — 
a  mug,  plate,  and  bowl  apiece  —  for  myself,  Johnny,  and  Kun'lla. 
China  ware  is  more  precious  in  this  part  of  the  world  than  silver 
plate  in  more  civilized  localities.  I  also  purchased  fifty  pounds 
of  sukaree,  and  some  large  likali  for  use  on  the  road.  Several 
Mahlemuts  having  arrived,  I  engaged  them  to  accompany  me  to 
Uiialakli'k.  I  proposed  to  take  the  old  bidarra  in  which  we  had 
descended  the  Yukon  from  Nulato.  I  had  engaged  to  have  a 
small  bidarra  made  at  Pastolik  and  forwarded  to  me  for  use  the 
coming  spring ;  but  it  had  not  yet  arrived.  The  old  one  was 
very  large,  and  the  lashings  and  covering  very  rotten.  I  hardly 
dared  risk  my  invaluable  trading-goods  ;  but,  taking  counsel  with 
some  of  the  Innuit,  we  concluded  that  we  could  probably  reach 
Unalakli'k  in  safety  with  it. 

My  crew  was  composed  of  Johnny,  a  Mahiemut  called  Myunuk, 
an  old  man  whom  I  called  New- Years,  and  a  young  Kaviagenuit. 
The  latter  had  an  extremely  stupid  appearance,  but  was  an  excel- 
lent hunter. 

On  the  23d  of  September  I  put  my  goods  on  board,  took  a 
mail  for  the  Russians  at  Unalakli'k,  and  put  to  sea.  The  wind 
was  hardly  fair,  and  rather  light,  and  I  was  obliged  to  beat  across 
the  southeast  arm  of  the  Sound,  and  put  into  the  Major's  Cove. 
I  had  hoped  to  reach  Kegiktowruk,  but  the  wind  was  adverse, 
and  so  high  I  could  not  risk  it.  Having  pitched  our  tent  under 
the  shelter  of  the  hill,  I  sent  Johnny  off  to  shoot  ptarmigan,  and 
rigged  some  fishing-poles,  in  hopes  to  catch  some  small  fish,  ol  a 
species  known  here  as  ivauch-nc,  a  kind  of  torn-cod.  Our  success 
was  not  very  great,  but  we  got  a  mess  for  supper,  and  Johnny 
returned  with  an  arctic  hare  which  had  already  donned  its  winter 
coat  of  white. 

The  next  day  the  wind  was  still  high,  and  it  was  impossible  to 


126 


THE  YUKON   TERRITORY. 


I  if 


i& 


m.i\ 


11 


PI' 


il 


get  away.  The  anchor  dragged  so  much  that  I  was  obliged  to 
haul  the  bidarra  up  on  the  beach.  Our  sail  had  proved  too  small, 
and  we  occupied  ourselves  in  sewing  on  a  strip  of  drill  on  each 
side.  Having  experienced  the  difficulty  of  transporting  heavy 
goods  by  sleds  to  Uliikuk,  I  hopfed  to  get  them  to  that  point  by 
water ;  but  the  ice  was  already  forming  in  the  ponds  on  the  tun- 
dra, and  I  began  to  fear  that  the  Unalakli'k  River  would  be  frozen 
over  before  my  arrival.  The  next  day  the  weather  was  equally 
bad,  and  we  were  compelled  to  remain.  Game  and  fish  were 
both  very  scarce,  and  we  lived  principally  on  sukaree  and  tea,  as 
I  had  no  bacon. 

On  the  26th  the  wind  was  very  variable  and  the  waves  very 
high.  Toward  noon  it  came  from  the  westward,  and  against  the 
wishes  of  the  men  I  decided  to  start.  Just  as  we  left  the  cove 
some  tremendous  rollers  came  in,  but  we  rode  over  them  safely, 
and  New-Years  remarked,  "  The  far-off  wind  has  died  away." 
Looking  out  to  sea,  I  saw  that  the  rollers  mentioned  above  were 
the  last,  and  the  sea  was  quite  smooth. 

The  wind  grew  fresher  and  fresher,  be'ng  nearly  a-beam.  The 
coast  between  the  cove  and  Kegiktowruk  is  rocky,  with  no  land- 
ing-places. The  wind  increased  and  rain  came  in  squalls.  The 
darkness  rapidly  closed  over  us  and  the  clouds  were  so  heavy 
that  the  land  was  indistinguishable.  For  three  hours  I  held  the 
tiller,  almost  blinded  by  the  rain,  fearing  every  moment  that  the 
wind  would  haul  ahead  and  drive  us  on  the  lee  shore  ;  my  only 
guide  in  steering  was  the  white  line  of  breakers  on  the  rock-bound 
coast.  We  passed  a  rocky  point,  known  as  Pallonoi  or  Burning 
Point,  in  safety,  and  about  half  past  eight  the  moon  suddenly 
broke  throu<;h  the  clouds,  revealing  the  three  rounded  hills  which 
lie  back  of  Kegiktowruk.  W^e  pulled  into  the  cove,  and  I  sent  up 
to  the  village  to  obtain  help  in  hauling  up  the  heavy  boat,  but 
the  inhabitants  had  gone  to  sleep  or  refused  to  come.  We  did 
our  best  to  put  her  in  safety,  and  went  up  to  the  casine,  where  we 
boiled  the  chynik  and  turned  in. 

The  Kegiktowruk  casine  is  the  largest  in  the  country.  The  an- 
nexed section  gives  an  idea  of  its  construction.  Its  area  is  about 
twenty-five  feet  by  thirty,  and  its  height  fifteen  feet  from  floor 
to  smoke-hole.  The  entrance  is  similar  to  that  of  the  ordinary 
houses,  but  at  a  is  a  second  opening,  by  which  the  cavity  beneath 


THE   YUKON   TERRITORY. 


127 


the  floor  may  be  reached.  In  the  middle  of  the  floor  is  a  hole 
(b)  where,  during  their  dances,  the  performers  come  up  from 
below,  not  entering  by  the  ordinary  door  at  i.  A  portion  of 
the  floor  about  twelve  feet  square  (ff)  is  composed  of  planks, 
which  may  be  removed  when  it  is  desired  to  build  a  fire  on  the 
earth  beneath.  Broad  planks  about  three  feet  and  a  half  above 
the  floor  form  seats  (s)  where  the  spectators  may  place  them- 
selves. The  opening  (l)  in  the  roof  is  for  the  admission  of  light 
and  egress  of  smoke.  There  are  no  other  windows.  The  en- 
trance (i)  is  usually  closed  by  a  hanging  bearskin.  The  sides 
are  of  logs  split  in  two  and  placed  on  end  in  the  earth  with  the 
flat  side  inward.  The  roof  is  supported  by  large  logs  laid  across 
so  as  to  support  each  other.  These  are  covered  by  a  layer  of 
small  timbers,  split,  or  hewn  flat  on  one  side ;  and  the  latter  are 


Di.igram  of  Innuit  casine. 

kept  in  place  by  large  timbers  laid  over  them  outside  and  at- 
tached by  a  saddle-joint  at  the  four  corners  of  the  roof.  The 
latter  is  covered  with  straw,  and  the  straw  with  earth,  pounded 
down  hard,  so  as  to  be  waterproof  There  is  not  a  nail  or  a  pin 
in  the  whole  structure,  which  is  of  the  most  solid  description. 
Some  of  the  logs  are  two  feet  in  diameter,  and  the  broad  seats  on 
each  side,  previously  referred  to,  are  each  composed  of  a  single 
plank  forty-four  inches  wide,  thirty  feet  long,  and  four  inches 
thick.  These  enormous  planks  are  from  dri*t-logs,  and  were 
hewn  with  the  stone  a.xes  of  the  natives. 

I  was  informed  that,  the  old  casine  being  decayed,  all  the 
Innuit  of  Norton  Sound  had  joined  in  building  the  present  one. 
Many  logs  were  towed  from  distant  parts  of  the  coast.  The 
whole  work  had  occupied  six  seasons  in  construction,  and  had 
been  standing  about  seven  years. 


I 


128 


THE   YUKON    TERRITORY. 


! 


M  ! 


:,j!i 


;Hi    I 


The  annexed  sketch  of  the  village  was  taken  on  the  spot.  On 
the  right  is  the  casine.  There  are  several  ordinary  winter  houses, 
which  are  on  the  brow  of  a  high  bank.  Caches  are  scattered 
about,  and  stages,  on  which  the  kyaks  are  elevated  out  of  reach 
of  the  dogs.  In  the  engraving,  the  kyaks  are  represented  too 
much  curved  upwards,  fore  and  aft.  They  are  nearly  straight, 
except  at  the  bow. 

At  the  left  of  the  houses  is  a  mass  of  perpendicular  timbers, 
projecting  from  the  ground.  This  was  the  dwelling  of  an  old 
couple,  who  died  in  the  summer  while  the  other  inhabitants  were 
away.  Returning  from  the  chase,  rather  than  touch  the  bodies, 
they  broke  down  the  house  over  them,  and  filled  it  in  with  earth ; 
a  few  projecting  uprights  are  their  only  monument. 

There  is  no  beach,  the  cove  is  shallow  and  full  of  rocks,  and 
the  skin-boats  must  be  hauled  up  on  ways  built  for  the  purpose, 
of  logs.  The  village  is  a  very  dirty  one.  Travellers  are  usually 
detained  there  by  adverse  winds.  The  inhabitants  have  no 
reputation  for  honesty,  and  it  is  in  every  respeci  the  meanest 
place  on  the  Sound.  The  principal  support  of  the  inhabitants 
is  the  seal-fishery,  but  in  the  fall  reindeer  abound  in  the 
vicinity.  Our  young  Kaviak  started  in  search  of  deer,  as  the 
weather  would  not  permit  of  our  continuing  the  voyage.  We 
started  with  a  fair  breeze  about  noon,  but  just  as  we  had  got 
well  out  of  the  cove  the  wind  shifted  dead  ahead,  and  we  had 
to  put  back. 

The  boat  made  so  much  water  that  I  suspected  a  hole,  and  un- 
loaded her.  The  Kaviak  and  New-Years  were  away,  and  My- 
unuk  was  sick  ;  so  I  had  an  hour's  hard  work  unloading  her  alone. 
I  called  some  of  the  natives  who  were  looking  on  to  help  turn 
her  over.  As  soon  as  we  raised  one  side  the  whole  frame  gave 
way,  and  the  sides  of  the  boat  shut  together  like  the  leaves  of  a 
book!  The  sealskin  lashings  were  quite  rotted  away,  and  only 
the  weight  of  the  goods  had  kept  her  in  shape.  Here  was  a 
quandary  !  There  was  only  one  bidarra  in  the  village,  and  she 
was  very  small  and  narrow.  She  belonged  to  an  old  man,  who 
saw  his  advantage  and  used  it.  After  long  persuasion  I  induced 
him  to  lend  her  to  me  to  take  my  goods  to  Unalaklik.  He 
required  for  her  hire  an  enormous  price,  more  than  the  boat  had 
cost  him  originally.     He  demanded  his  pay  in  advance,  and  his 


:he  spot.  On 
vinter  houses, 
are  scattered 
out  of  reach 
presented  too 
:arly  straight, 

cular  timbers, 
ing  of  an  old 
labitants  were 
ch  the  bodies, 
in  with  earth ; 

of  rocks,  and 
r  the  purpose, 
rs  are  usually 
ants  have  no 
:  the  meanest 
le  inhabitants 
30\md  in  the 
f  deer,  as  the 

voyage.     We 

5  we  had  got 

and  we  had 

hole,  and  un- 
way,  and  My- 
ing  her  alone. 

to  help  turn 
ic  frame  gave 
he  leaves  of  a 
Ivay,  and  only 

Here  was  a 
|lage,  and  she 

lid  man,  who 
lion  I  induced 

alaklik.  He 
Ithe  boat  had 

lance,  and  his 


■■  -,11:; 


if 


,:^- 


5  I 


f    '  p.W 


IS 


LM 


ill! 


ifi 


k  '\ 


!'!. 


I! 


128 


THE  YUKON   TERRITORY. 


The  annexed  sketch  .><  ihe  vilku^e  was  takcti  on  the  spot..  On 
the  r'v^Yit  is  the  casino.  There  are  several  onlinary  winter  huiises. 
whi'-S  arc  vn  the  hi.w  of  a  high  hank.  Caches  are  scattered 
a':«;»u,  an  1  stages,  on  which  the  ky.iks  are  elevated  out  of  reach 
of  the  dogs.  In  the  <-nj;ravinj;,  i\\f  kyaks  are  represented  toe 
rMxch  cur\ed  'ujiwarcLs,  lore  and  aft  The)  are  nearly  straight, 
exccjit  at  the  how. 

At  the  l-l";  of  the  houses  is  a  nia.ss  of  perpendicular  timbers 
projeoting  !>.,!;(  )h.-  ground.  This  \v.t«  the  dwelling  of  an  old 
coujile.  wiio  du(!  in  the  summer  while  the  other  inhabitants  were 
away.  Rciv.rr.ihg  from  thi.*  chase,  rather  than  touch  the  bodice 
they  broke  down  ihe  house  ovrr  them,  and  filled  it  iii  with  earth 
a  few  projecting  upright.?  are  their  only  nUinument. 

liierc*  is  no  beach,  the  cove  is  shallow  and  fiill  of  rocks,  an 
the  skin-boats  mast  be  hauled  up  on  ways  built  for  the  purpose 
.  oflo<;s.      J'he  village  is  a  very  dirty  one.     Travellers  arc  u.suall. 
detained    there    by    adv.jrsc    winds.      The    iiihaLitaiils    have    n. 
reputalioa   !ur  lionesiv,  .md   it  is  in  every  respect  the  meaner-, 
place  on  the  Sound,      i  !.-   priuci])al  support  of  the  inhabitant 
!■.    the    seal-fis!it:ry,    but    !a    tUt    Tali    reindeer    abound    in    tl- 
vicinity      (  hr  young  Kavuk   started  in   search  of  deer,  as   th 
uoailn:r   .•..»:  Li  not  permit  of  our  continuing  iIk:  voyage.     \\ 
:'ar'ei.i    \v.?:     t  lair  breeze  about  nuoii.   but  ju'^t  .is  we"  had  g^- . 
Wv  11  uiu.  •  '    ilij.ccve  ill-:   wind  >.!ufted  dead  ahead,  and   we  h;id 
'  ->  T>ut  back 

i'h    '  o.it  niaile  so  much  water  that  T  su.spccted  a  liole,  and  v.n- 
li'iided  '.'r.     i'lie    K.iviak   and   New- Years  were  away,  and  M' 
unuk  w.i^  suk  ,  so  I  had  an  hour's  hard  work  unloatling  her  alotv,. 
i   ^ ilied  .'  mc  of  the  natives  who  were  looking  on  to  help  tuj 
; -•  !     ^i•r.      A    *=onn  as  we  raised  one  side  the  whole  frame  gu 
■!!l<-s  of  the  boat  shut  together  like  tlie  leaves  of  . 
'.u-i:di  'ashitigs  were  quite  rotted  away,  and  onh 
'1    'v.'Ofls   iiad.   kept   her   in   shape.     Mere  was 
here  "   ■-  <;nly  one  bidarra  in  the  village,  and  si 
.md  o.it  i.\v.     Slie  belonged  to  an  old  man,  viif- 
•.   .-'nil  >  "d  it.     After  long  per.-iuasion  I  indu^. 
^  m-.:    .'■  t.ike   my    goods  to   Unalaklik.     )' 

•       ti  enormous  price,  more  than  the  boat  '    .; 


i  th, 
1  he 


I  !v      ■ 
•  pi,... 
was   V-: 

-,aw  hi 
Iiiru  u 


requirj'd   f</i   Im  .      • 
cost  hin>  ufi^'inaliv 


demanded  his  pay  in  advance,  anu 


h 


: 


he  spot..  On 
nntcr  houses. 
Avt:  scattered 
out  of  reach 
ircscnted  toe 
:>rly  straight. 

niirtr  timber? 
11^^  ot  an  o]{\ 
abitants  were 
:h  the  bodice 
n  \vith  earth 

of  rocks,  an 

the  purpoH 
•s  arc  usual'. 
inis_  have   r- 

the  mearie  ■ 
e  inhabitant 
•ound    in    tt' 
i  doer,  as  tl- 
voyaj.;c.     \\ 

we  had  j; 

and   we  h  -.'i 


io!o,  nnil  ^n 
a\,  and   ]\1' 
her  aloti 
to  help  tu' 
'■■anie  g;- 
.;;aves  o; 
a\ ,  and  oi  , 
III  no  was 
age,  and  si 
id  man,  w'l- 
m  I  indu>. 
dakh'k.     ^  ' 
■  boat  '.  .i 
:e,  anu   n., 


II 


THE   YUKON   TERRITORY. 


129 


wife  stood  by  him  while  I  measured  out  the  (hill,  powder,  ball, 
and  tobaeco,  and,  as  I  gave  him  the  required  quantity  of  each, 
would  exclaim,  "It  is  too  little,  we  must  have  more!"  I  was 
very  much  provoked,  but  there  was  no  way  in  wl  ich  I  could  help 
myself,  and  I  was  obliged  to  satisfy  hci  avarice,  and  make  her  a 
present  besides,  while  wishing  her  at  the  bottom  of  the  sea.  I 
then  loaded  the  boat,  but  she  was  so  dry  that  the  water  came  in 
at  all  the  seams,  and  I  was  obliged  to  unload  her  again.  It  was 
evident  that  I  must  leave  a  large  part  of  my  load  at  the  village, 
and  send  back  for  it.  I  was  very  loath  to  do  this,  as  the  Kegik- 
towruk  men  arc  notorious  thieves  ;  but  there  was  no  help  for  it. 
Having  picked  out  the  most  valuable  part  of  the  cargo,  including 
the  flour,  sugar,  tea,  lead,  and  powder,  I  placed  the  rest  in  charge 
of  the  old  man  to  whom  the  boat  belonged.  I  then  loaded  up  for 
the  third  time,  after  greasing  the  scams  with  tallow.  This  day's 
experience  will  give  a  faint  idea  of  the  annoyances  sometimes 
endured,  and  the  patience  required,  in  travelling  among  these 
natives. 

That  afternoon  an  old  acquaintance  arrived,  —  a  IMahlemut 
called  Ark-hannok,  and  his  family.  His  bidarra  was  so  full  that 
he  could  not  take  any  goods  for  me,  but  he  promised  to  send  back 
his  men  and  boat  from  Unalakli'k,  to  fetch  the  goods  I  left  behind. 
In  the  evening  the  absent  Kaviak  returned  with  two  haunches  of 
venison  on  his  back,  having  killed  a  deer.  We  had  a  good  supper 
off  them,  and  retired  early.  The  next  morning  I  rose  at  four 
o'clock  and  found  the  wind  fair.  We  boiled  the  chynik  and 
took  a  hasty  breakfast,  getting  off  about  six.  Our  boat  was  very 
low,  her  gunwale  amidships  being  only  four  inches  above  the 
water.  She  was  so  narrow  and  crank  that  we  were  obliged  to 
lash  a  kyak  alongside  with  two  oars,  as  an  outrigger.  lu'cn  then 
the  Innuit  were  unwilling  to  sail  from  point  to  point,  but  insisted 
on  hugging  the  shore. 

The  wind  was  light,  and  we  only  reached  Golsova  River  by 
noon.  We  rounded  Tolstoi  Point  with  a  fair  breeze.  At  To- 
panika  we  landed,  and  found  a  Mahlcmut  chief,  called  Ark-na-py- 
ak,  camped  with  his  family.  Here  we  drank  tea,  and  took  on 
board  a  lad  about  twelve  years  old,  whom  we  had  named  Tommy 
the  previous  year.  He  wished  to  go  to  Unalakli'k,  and  to  oblige 
the  natives  I  offered  him  a  passage.  We  started  about  three 
9 


.!i':   I 


i 

•ill 


§'^' 


M 


fill  :i 


130 


THE   YUKON   TERRITORY. 


o'clock,  with  a  strong  breeze  from  the  southwest,  wind  coming  in 
pufis  with  intervals.  The  water  was  perfectly  smooth,  and  wo 
sailed  finely  for  some  time.  The  wind  grew  stronger  rapidly,  and 
soon  raised  a  sea  which  made  me  anxious.  The  tide  was  hiuh, 
and  the  perpendicular  sandstone  bluffs  rose  direct  from  the 
water,  the  narrow  beach  being  covered.  There  was  no  oppor- 
tunity for  landing  until  the  bluffs  were  passed.  The  waves  began 
to  don  their  white  caps,  and  occasionally  tossed  a  handful  of  .spray 
in  our  faces,  as  a  foretaste  of  what  was  coming.  I  resigned  the 
steering-paddle  into  the  more  experienced  hands  of  old  New- 
Years,  and  stood  by  him  with  another,  in  case  that  should  break. 
I  distributed  tin  cups  to  all  hands,  as  I  knew  we  should  have  to 
use  them  very  soon  in  bailing. 

The  end  of  the  bluffs  was  passed,  but  to  my  dismay  I  saw  the 
long  low  beach  piled  with  driftwood,  forming  an  impenetrable 
clicvanx-dc-frisc  at  high-water  mark.  Against  it  the  waves  were 
dashing.  There  was  no  choice  but  to  go  on.  It  was  rapidly 
growing  dark,  but  the  mouth  of  the  river  was  discernible.  We 
managed,  by  constant  bailing,  to  keep  her  free,  though  every  tenth 
wave  would  throw  in  a  dozen  bucketfuls.  The  worst  was  yet  to 
come.  I  knew  that  the  sea  would  be  breaking  on  the  bar  at  the 
mouth  of  the  Unalakli'k  River,  where  there  is  seldom  over  five 
feet  of  water.  The  only  question  was,  could  we  pass  through  that 
line  of  breakers  in  safety .'  I  hardly  dared  to  hope  we  could, 
We  already  heard  them  roaring  on  the  bar,  and  could  see  their 
white  caps  dimly.  We  were  all  so  thoroughly  drenched  that  we 
could  be  no  wetter.  The  old  Mahlemut  never  flinched.  With 
his  eye  on  the  breakers,  as  we  drew  nearer  and  nearer,  he  sat 
silent  and  rigid  as  a  carved  image.  The  younger  men  crouched 
in  the  bottom  of  the  boat.  The  little  F.skimo  lad  looked  fright- 
ened, but  did  not  stop  bailing  for  a  moment.  I  threw  off  my 
hunting-shirt,  and  made  ready  for  swimming.  As  we  were  just 
upon  the  breakers  I  glanced  at  the  steersman.  He  moved  not  a 
muscle  of  his  weather-beaten  face.  The  next  moment  a  crash 
announced  that  our  outriggers  were  broken.  I  threw  myself 
upon  the  kyak  and,  with  the  young  Kaviak,  held  it  for  a  moment 
in  place.  The  crest  of  the  advancing  roller  struck  us  on  the 
stern,  deluging  us  with  water,  and  before  I  had  time  to  realize  it 
another  followed  it,  almost  burying  us  ;  and  for  a  second  I  thought 


cominp;  in 
ith,  ami  we 
rapidly,  and 
Ic  was  high, 
t  from  the 
5  no  oppor- 
vavcs  began 
Ifiil  of  spray 
resigned  the 
Df  old  Ncw- 
lould  break, 
ould  have  to 

\y  I  saw  the 
mpenetrable 
waves  were 
was  rapidly 
rnible.     We 
1  every  tenth 
t  was  yet  to 
le  bar  at  the 
)m  over  five 
hrough  that 
c  we  could. 
Id  see  their 
bed  that  we 
bed.     With 
larer,  he  sat 
n  crouched 
ked  fright- 
rew  off  my 
c  were  just 
noved  not  a 
nt  a  crash 
|rew   myself 
|r  a  moment 
us  on  the 
to  realize  it 
I  thought 


I 


'  I 


*r 


.  V|(«  ■ 


t 


m 


^-^i^ljii*' 


I  y.) 


riir:    YLKON-    'ri.KKlTORV. 


:    ': 


oV-iock,  \«.  "til  ,1  -Iron.:,  hie. -;c  iVcini  ihv  sr  u'..!:'  C">(.  wind  ciM-niin.'-  'w 
i>-n~  ■  :'i  in;'.!"'..,! -.  '''  ■■•  •-'.,;'.■  >v,-;  _ ...  r:.:^tl  ,•  srnoolh,  and  wr 
s.rit'  '  ii<dy  li'!'  .-o''.!  !  .•  .  i  iv  •,  ii.J  L;r.  w  •!''>n:.^(  v  r.'ii.idh,-  aiui 
'«i'"ii  '  I'.^i-  .1  >i  a  ■• '•  I;!!'.'.;  !!!■-;  ■;  ..'li-  j'lv.:  !  id'-  was  iiiL;h. 
■  fi;d  'i'.'  |T!;.,t.;  ,;i  .  ■..iiM,,l..'ic  1.  ■iM;-.  rt,.,L'  i\H:A  ii'^m  die 
V.  ■!'■',  '.'  liaii.iA  !  I!  1m  II-  ■(  .,  .  !  l"!',(.'rr  was  no  o;')'')i 
t.i''  i:  'iiriL;  w     u  'iio  li!"!is  \\':v>:  ;   ;  •  <    i.      T!ir  v\a\"cs  lu'^'a;' 

•■!.!■■•,',;•  ru.d  in  i.a>:.tird!)  '.'-^t  (!  a  liaiulUd  fjf  <})!a\ 
'"      '       ■'  I      .!    !■■  •    'a:',<:    'il   '.'dial  u.-.  ri  k.'u^       !   :■.  ■^i^-i  :il  lih 

:'   '     d^'.      .r.  '\\     ivi'i.  1  :.,  .'d    ■.    I  l!:-    ol    r.jd    Xi.'V. 
^     .'  '  •  i   i'v  ii'in  .\idi  :i'^M'iH,!-,  ;,,  .  ;  .:    hat  sl!':'uld  i>i.  ak 

'    d:  ,,         '.  f'.    .  i;i^-.    !ii   ai'    i  .i.nds,  a';  I  k i  .  v\   \vc  si-  .Mid  u.lVc  '.' 

i)>       :i  ,:;   ,  ..i'v  .  "  Ml  'n  !>  lil:''^. 

I  1'-  end  id   111..   bln'N  V.  ls  |;a-.s<;d,   hi't  I'l  i^iv  diMiiav  '  ;;  i\'.   t' 
irui'4    ii.'.v    bi.:.:h   i"id-«i    vvh!)   dial.wi-od.    fuiriiM;.;'   :   i    iiripc:,'.;;;;ii.' 
{i/i'r,n7.' -./(// iu'  .'.[    !)ii,li  '.valv':'   nii'i  k.      .\'..'i!asl  id  ;!■<'  w;i\.s  ,\a',i 
da;. l.ai':        iiui''    w  \     n^,   ■  h   '■re  Inl    ;.■    ::<■  ra       I;    um>  rajs. a 


t\i'^^\   I".'"   ■  1  ;;  k ,   Mi'    "I"  :    iruiii  .    I  ■    1  '■ 


?i'l. 


•■v,. ;  (i:si~5'-ivulo. 


,  I , 


\\ 


an,. 
'i|  I       d 
ai    J    .' 

■-!■  111.  • 
ail.  da 


.11,    'i' '  y.'     J     .'.'l   1'  i  ''.  !m<i!  ;;ii    'xa  'V  las; 
■  a '  iiA  "    a    i- '  ■   .'  !."id,.  ;  I  i;  .      i  ■■    v  >\   \  \sa-.     •'. 
; '   !      'f  .-V  a  W'lur  I    ,  •■   '  .^  '■  .'.  i-'-  la;  *!..■  liar  .it  '. 
■.  d.il'dds    kisi-..  \*'ii(:  I         I    i;     .1     idali.in    '  \  i  r   a 
I  .       1  1,1     111'',    ,|;''-  a  iMii  \'  a   ,  i  .1.  '  '  '.\i    j'vss  ti''-  au    h  !  '• 
1  ill    -lU'y-      1    La;-,!!-,'    .'     .•.'    to   !a  j.*    w.    .,-i..l 

'!   ar.|    I,,,. a;    ■.  'anii.',      r;    Mn.'    1.  ,r,  .t'ai  .-..aid      .a.    il' 
di!)!'.,  .      W'..    \\.i  ■   .id    -..  ill.  :  ■:  i.^-.id'  (!  I  ai  lual   di:ii. 
.  )  war.  a.       ;  l;c  1  Id    ■d.da.aaiii    a.-  .a   l!aa  Ik  d.      V. 
',       iiiirdsi,-,  .:■•   y' \    ii:'i  w    iica:vr   ii;i:   ic,  ai'-:,   la. 
;|a    a.aiA.ai   iiua.ia       'a-     v '■la^ii.'f   n    ai   'i-Ua. 


,  1. 


au. 


!   ..     Iim! 


li'i ..'    !   •k.ijno  la^;  1  I  d^ci   n 


,1'f    ■-'■)\>    aaiiini;    ,.a'    a    i.ajiaiau.       I    lii'',.">/   .al; 
'    aa.I.'    r.'  i.!y   ;  .,    ■  u  iiii.a  ■<;■.      A.-    \\ ..   \\.'W 
;:\.\>\'  .  il    \'      'a-    -a-  ;■      mi        [  |  v;  aii  .w  a    1 
.■    '.  -j^  II    laf,         I'!)';'   '■,!  \t   .amni'Mt    .i    .  • 
;   ;.,  'i :    \'  1  '•      'il    :.    '.    ■     1    1 1.!  i\v    a  ■• 
!  I.'    aa,-  .    ,va\  i,.  •     "n  !a  i'   I    r  a  lU' ' 
.  1  ■■  '      ■     ■  'v  ;   •.  m  '         a,    I     ■,;  •    ,1  k     :'  .    i   a 

.  ■',,       .     .•   .uidi    I  ..  II.'      I      ■  1   tiiiiv.'  ^    i'.;  ,i!i. 


3 


M-      ,'ai:      ii 


>!.,. 


.ai 


Bill,:;'    '!l 
(Il\'    :m(t 


,Mi  .11 


1)     l!..\A. 


iw  t' 


:K.!r;u. 


■.Vf 


fill. 


\\ 


I  -i: 


i.a 


nir:,i:   riiy" 


»mmi 


«i!;;,,.J; 


" "  L'l 


»l';'i,;  i  .: 


It'll 

,.:■  Ill,  '.  I'-     I   I 


fl 


hi 


ill 


r    H 

■r 


!W" 


III 


THE   YUKON   TERRITORY. 


IP 


we  were  going  clown.     .She  rose  again,  however,  more  than  half 
filled  ;  and  shaking  the  water  out  of  his  scanty  hair,  the  old  man 
said  calmly,  "  Here  is  the  river,  there  is  the  fort."     We  were  in  , 
smooth  water.     The  Ir.st  breaker  had  carried  us  over  the  bar. 

All  hands  bailed  for  dear  life,  and  as  soon  as  we  had  freed  the 
boat  from  a  dangerous  amount  of  water  we  pulled  for  the  shore. 
Here  we  foinid  ice,  and  were  obliged  to  pull  half  a  mile  to  find 
a  landing-place.  The  Innuit  shouted  at  the  top  of  their  lungs, 
and  we  were  soon  answered.  Eskimo  of  all  ages  and  both 
sexes  came  out  from  their  dens,  helped  to  haul  up  the  boat,  and 
unloaded  her  above  high-water  mark.  I  expected  to  find  the 
flour  and  sugar,  which  were  in  bags,  entirely  spoiled.  Popoff,  the 
Unalakli'k  bidarshik,  finally  awoke,  and  opened  the  gates.  With 
the  help  of  the  natives,  I  carried  the  goods  into  the  storehouse, 
dismissed  the  men,  who  took  refuge  with  their  friends  in  the 
village,  and,  quite  exhausted,  followed  Popoff  into  the  casarmer. 
Here  I  stripped  off  my  clothes.  I  had  literally  not  a  dry  stitch 
on  me,  and  there  v  ibout  a  gallon  of  salt  water  in  each  boot. 
Popoff  kindly  suppl.'  i  !  le  with  dry  clothing,  and  we  s'lt  down 
around  the  hospitable  samovar.  I  dare  not  say  how  manj'  cups  of 
fragrant  tea  I  disposctl  of.  I  know  the  last  was  well  among  the 
"  teens."  The  bed  was  only  a  plank  and  a  blanket,  but,  with  a 
tobacco-box  under  my  head,  I  lost  .iiyself  in  a  well-earned  slumber. 

The  next  day,  thanks  to  the  tea,  !  arose  as  fresh  as  ever,  tliough 
not  until  nearly  noon.  My  first  act  wi  s  to  overhaul  the  goods. 
The  tea  I  had  taken  the  precaution  to  solder  up  in  an  empty  lin 
before  leaving  the  Redoubt.  The  powder  was  in  tight  cans. 
The  lead  of  course  was  not  injured  by  wetting.  The  flour,  to  my 
surprise,  was  but  slightly  wet.  Water  dors  not  easily  penetrate 
flour  in  the  bags.  Our  clothes,  except  what  were  in  tight  seal- 
skin bags,  and  our  blankets,  were  soaked,  The  sug;u-  had  suffered 
most.  About  half  of  it  was  well  salted.  This  was  a  serious  loss, 
Init  might  be  partly  made  gowl.  Altogether  we  got  off  much 
better  than   I  had  dared  to  anticipate 

Popoff,  another  Russian  named  Ostiofskci,  two  native  work- 
men, and  a  Creole  woman  comprised  the  entire  garrison  at  the 
tort.  Popoff  was  a  mu'h  pleasanter  fellow  than  most  of  the 
Russians,  and  I  got  along  with  him  very  well.  The  village  con- 
tained very  few  natives,  most  of  them  being  still  absent  hunting 


•I 


M 

I: 
I 


132 


THK  YUKON   TERRITORY. 


deer.  The  next  day  I  secured  Ark-hannok"s  bidarra,  and  de- 
spatched it  with  a  crew  of  five  to  fetch  the  remaining  goods  from 
Kegiktovvruk.  On  the  night  of  October  ist  they  reuirned,  to 
my  surprise,  with  their  load.  The  rascals  at  Kcgiktowruk  had 
stolen  some  thirty  pounds  of  backfat  and  a  hatchet.  The  re- 
mainder of  the  goods  were  safe. 

The  weather  continued  warm  and  rainy.  A  few  days  cleared 
the  ice  completely  out  of  the  river.  I  therefore  made  immediate 
arrangements  for  taking  the  heavy  goods  by  water  to  Ulukuk,  thus 
saving  time,  and  transportation  over  a  very  bad  portage  in  winter. 

On  the  3d  of  October  I  took  three  men  and  the  Kegiktovvruk 
bidarra,  and  started  up  the  Unalaklik  River.  We  found  the  cur- 
rent very  strong  and  the  water  low.  We  drew,  loaded,  a  foot  and 
a   half,   finding   occasional   difficulty   in   crossing   the   sandbars. 


41 


Ingalik  gra -e. 

Ulukuk,  in  a  straight  line,  is  only  thirty-three  miles  from  Unala- 
klik. By  the  river,  which  is  more  winding  than  the  ancient 
Meander,  it  is  at  least  double  the  distance,  and  probably  more. 
On  the  morning  of  the  4th  we  reached  Iktigalik.  Mere  we 
found  mnny  of  the  Ingaliks.  They  wanted  to  go  up  in  my  boat 
to  Ulukuk,  and  attempted  to  detain  me  by  all  sorts  of  contradic- 
tory stories  about  the  river.  I  had  had  some  experience  in  estimat- 
ing 'h':  value  of  such  talk,  and  pushed  on.  Every  night  new  ice 
formed  in  the  river,  and  I  used  all  my  energy  in  travelling,  in 
order  that  we  might  not  be  caught  and  frozen  in.  On  the  morn- 
ing of  the  6th  we  arrived  at  Ulukuk.  As  we  drew  near  we  heard 
a  low  wailing  chant,  and  Mikala,  one  of  my  men,  informed  me 
that  it  was  women  lamenting  for  the  dead.  On  landing  I  saw 
several  Indians  hewing  out  the  bo.x  in  which  the  dead  are  placed. 


^ 


THE   YUKON   TERRITORY. 


'33 


i,  and  de- 
oods  from 
Uirned,  to 
jwruk  had 
The  rc- 

lys  cleared 
immediate 
lukuk,  thus 
i  in  winter, 
egiktowruk 
nd  the  cur- 
,  a  foot  and 
-   sandbars. 


On  inquiry  I  found  that  our  old  acquaintance  of  the  previous 
year,  "  Kaltag  Stareek,"  had  gone  to  his  long  home.  He  had  been 
for  many  /ears  the  "oldest  inhabitant,"  and  was  much  respected 
by  the  Russian.s.  The  body  lay  on  its  side  in  a  deerskin.  The 
heels  were  lashed  to  the  small  of  the  back,  and  the  head  bent  for- 
ward on  the  chest,  so  that  his  coffin  needed  to  be  onlv  about  four 
feet  long. 

We  lost  no  time  in  putting  the  goods  into  an  empty  cache, 
covering  them  with  walrus  hide,  and  nailing  up  the  door.  During 
a  long  experience  I  have  never  known  of  goods  being  meddled 
with  or  broken  open  if  properly  secured,  no  matter  how  lonely  the 
situation  of  the  cache,  or  how  long  it  remained  unvisited.  "A 
cache  is  sacred"  is  one  of  the  axioms  of  the  wilderness.  This 
goes  far  to  prove  that  the  average  of  honesty  among  these  In- 
dians is  higher  than  that  which  obtains  among  white  men.  The 
Innuit,  as  at  Kegiktovvruk,  are  occasionally  less  trustworthy. 

The  Ingaliks  had  just  returned  from  a  bear  hunt.  Bears  are 
not  uncommon  in  this  part  of  the  territory.  There  are  three 
species:  The  large  brown  bear  of  the  mountains,  known  as  the 
"grizzly"  among  the  Hudson  Bay  voyageurs  ;  ihe  barren-ground 
bear  {Ursiis  Richardsonii  oi  Mayne  Reid),  which  is  confined  in  Rus- 
sian America  to  the  extreme  northeast ;  and  the  black  bear,  which 
frequents  the  vicinity  of  the  Vukon,  in  the  wooded  district  only. 
The  polar  or  white  bear  is  found  only  in  the  vicinity  of  Bering 
Strait,  on  the  shores  of  the  Arctic  Ocean,  and  on  St.  Matthew's 
Island  in  Bering  Sea.  It  has  probably  reached  the  latter  locality 
on  floating  ice ;  we  only  know  of  its  existence  there  from  whalers, 
who  apply  the  name  of  Bear  Island  to  the  locality,  from  the  abun- 
dance of  these  animals.  We  know  that  it  is  not  found  on  the 
mainland  south  of  latitude  65°.  The  cubs  of  the  black  bear  are  of 
the  same  color  as  the  parent,  and  the  adult  is  very  much  .-innaller 
than  its  brown  cousin,  which  sometimes  reaches  a  length  ot  nine 
feet,  with  a  girth  nearly  as  great.  The  brown  bear,  or  grizzly,  is 
the  only  one  which  manifests  any  ferocity,  and  it  always  avoids 
any  contest  unless  brought  to  bay. 

The  manner  of  hunting  it  is  as  follows.  After  discrirvering  its 
lair  the  natives  carefidly  measure  the  opening.  Timbers  of  the 
requisite  length,  and  from  four  to  six  inches  in  diameter,  are  care- 
fully cut,  and  carried  to  the  vicinity.     During  the  day,  when  the 


\  i! 


134 


THE   YUKON   TERRITORY. 


bear  is  known  ta  have  returned  to  the  cave,  the  Indians  collect 
in  large  numbers,  and  approach  with  the  utmost  quietness,  cacli 
carrying  a  timber  or  a  large  stone.  The  timbers  are  then  fitted 
into  the  mouth  of  the  den,  forming  a  barricade,  and  stones  in 
large  numbers  are  piled  up  against  them,  only  leaving  an  open- 
ing about  a  foot  square.  Burning  brands  are  then  thrown  in  to 
arouse  the  animal,  who  puts  his  head  out  of  the  opening,  which  is 
too  small  for  egress.  A  volley  of  balls  soon  puts  an  end  to  his 
existence.  After  satisfying  themselves  of  his  death,  the  hunters 
remove  the  barricade,  and  divide  the  body  amciig  themselves. 
The  skin  is  valuable  only  as  a  rug  or  bed,  or  to  hang  in  the 
doorway  of  a  lodge  to  exclude  the  cold. 

The  Indians  were  anxious  that  I  should  pass  the  night  at 
Ulukuk ;  but,  fearful  of  being  frozen  in,  I  decided  to  return  with- 
out delay.  Coming  up,  while  examining  the  rocks  I  discovered 
a  fossil  elephant  tusk  about  eight  feet  long  on  one  of  the  bars 
in  the  river.  I  put  it  up  on  end  in  order  to  sec  it  and  take  it 
with  me  on  my  return.  A  snow-storm  came  on,  which  obscured 
everything,  so  that  we  passed  down  without  seeing  it,  and 
arrived  at  Ikti'galik  about  seven  in  the  evening.  The  next  morn- 
ing we  left  Ikti'galik  about  nine  o'clock,  and  half-way  down  came 
upon  the  three-holed  bidarka  which  Kurilla  and  his  companions 
had  left  on  the  shore  when  they  struck  across  the  summer  port- 
p.j^c.  I  thought  it  might  prove  useful,  and  took  it  aboard. 
About  two  o'clock  we  arrived  at  Unalaklik,  just  in  time  to  enjoy 
a  steam  bath.  While  I  had  been  r.bsent  sonic  Eskimo  from  Kot- 
zebue  Sound  had  arrived,  bringing  alcohol,  purchased  from  the 
traders. 

The  whole  village  was  in  a  turmoil,  and  the  Russians  at  the 
fort  in  no  little  alarm,  anticipating  a-i  attack.  Some  natives 
having  reported  a  remarkable  and  unknown  object  as  cast  upon 
the  beach,  Popoffand  my.self  walked  four  or  five  miles  to  examine 
it.  It  proved  to  be  the  carcass  of  a  walrus  deprived  of  its  hivad. 
These  animals,  as  well  as  whales,  are  unknown  in  Norton  Sound, 
and  this  carcass  had  probably  been  driven  by  the  wind  and  sea 
from  the  north. 

On  Jie  9th  of  October  I  had  the  bidarka  repaired  and  well 
oiled.  The  next  day,  with  Tommy,  Johnny  and  a  Kaviak,  1 
started  for  Topanika,  to  examine  the  geological  characte-'  uf  the 


THE  YUKON   TERRITORY. 


135 


ians  at  the 


shore.  At  night  we  arrived  at  a  creek  where  an  old  Mahlemut 
chief,  Allu-iokan,  and  his  people  were  camped.  Here  I  purchased 
some  deer  meat  and  a  large  number  of  tongues. 

The  next  morning  the  Innuit  left  us  for  Unalakli'k.  Johnny 
and  Tommy  started  into  the  interior  in  search  of  deer.  Taking 
my  haversack,  I  proceeded  to  Tolstoi  Point,  examining  the  rocks, 
and  taking  notes  of  the  character,  thickness,  and  dip  of  the 
strata.  I  found  no  fossils  except  indistinct  vegetable  remains. 
Climbing  the  bluff,  I  followed  the  edge  of  a  deep  ravine  inland 
for  half  a  mile.  Feeling  thirsty,  I  managed  to  swing  myself  down 
the  precipitous  sides,  by  the  birches  which  grew  sparingly  in 
rifts  of  the  rock.  Here  I  found  a  stream  of  pure  cold  water,  and, 
bending  down  to  drink,  some  fine  fossils  attracted  my  attention. 
Securing  a  bundle  of  about  fifty  pounds'  weight,  I  had  a  piece  of 
hard  work  packing  them  on  my  back  out  of  the  ravine.  I  was 
obliged  to  walk  in  the  bed  of  the  stream,  as  the  sides  were 
too  abrupt  to  ascend  with  my  load.  I  finally  arrived  at  camp, 
after  dark,  and  pretty  tired.  No  one  was  there,  and  I  built 
a  large  fire,  fearing  that  Johnny  might  be  unable  to  return 
in  the  obscurity  over  the  rough  and  broken  hills.  The  boys 
arrived  at  last,  having  killed  two  deer,  bringing,  however,  only 
the  tongues  and  kidneys.  I  rated  them  well  for  the  folly  of  de- 
stroying game  which  they  could  not  use  or  bring  home.  Econ- 
omy in  such  matters  is  incomprehensible  to  the  native  mind. 
They  are  always  ready  to  destroy  life  even  if  they  can  lot  avail 
themselves  of  the  remains. 

The  next  day,  having  completed  my  observations,  I  availed 
myself  of  an  invitation  to  take  passage  for  Unalakli'k  in  a 
passing  Mahlcn-ut  bidarra.  I  occupied  myself  for  several  days 
in  purchasing  articles  which  I  had  found  from  experience  were 
necessary  or  useful  in  the  interior.  These  were  principally 
Eskimo  winter  boots,  of  deerskin  with  sealskin  soles  ;  deerskin 
mittens,  parkies,  and  breeches,  some  destined  for  the  ethnological 
collection,  and  others  for  use  ;  boot-soles,  to  replace  old  ones 
when  worn  out  ;  deer  sinew,  for  sewing  skin  clothing  ;  fine  seal- 
skin line,  for  lashing  sleds,  bidarni-frames,  dog-harness,  and  boot- 
strings  ;  mahout,  cr  walrus  hide  cut  in  long  strips,  for  tracking- 
line  ;  prepared  sealskin,  for  mending  boats ;  oil,  foi  lamps  in 
winter  ;  ukali,  by  the  thousand,  for  dog  and  man  feed  ;  the  whiii 


'id 


r 


136 


THE   YUKON   TERRITORY. 


|ii  ^iri'ii 


';    I 


vm 


iX'W 


M-l 


bellies  of  the  deer,  with  dried  fish  skins  and  wolverine  skins,  for 
trimming  skin  clothes ;  and  the  backfat  of  the  reindeer,  to  supply 
the  total  absence  of  pork,  bacon,  and  butter. 

The  reindeer,  in  summer,  is  furnished  with  a  broad  layer  of 
fat,  between  the  muscle  and  the  skin,  along  the  back  from  the 
shoulder  to  the  haunch.  This  layer  comes  off  in  a  single  piece 
fifteen  inches  broad  and  from  half  an  inch  to  four  inches  thick. 
This  is  called  the  "  backfat."  Other  fat  in  smaller  quantity  is 
procured  from  the  vicinity  of  the  kidney.s,  the  omentum,  and  the 
intestines.  A  little  is  also  procured  with  the  marrow,  by  pound- 
ing and  boiling  the  bones.  All  this  in  its  dried  state  is  liable  to 
spoil.  Anticipating  this,  I  had  all  my  fat  cut,  pounded  up,  and 
tried  out.  When  thoroughly  extracted,  I  poured  the  pure  fat  into 
empty  tin  cans,  thus  preserving  it  from  injury  and  rendering  it 
compact  for  transportation.  The  Hudson  Bay  pemmican  is  made 
by  pounding  dry  meat  between  stones,  until  all  the  meat  is  re- 
duced to  powder.  The  sinews  and  gristle  are  picked  out,  and  the 
rest  is  mi.xed  with  boiling  fat  and  poured  into  a  rawhide  bag, 
where  it  becomes  perfectly  solid.  Pemmican  is  unknown  to  the 
Russians,  whose  chief  dependence  is  fish.  Indeed,  I  do  not  know 
of  any  part  of  Russian  America  where  meat  and  fat  abound  in 
sufficient  quantities  to  be  much  used  in  this  way.  Pemmican  is 
tasteless,  unappetizing  food,  but  contains  much  nourishment  in  a 
very  compact  form. 

I  have  hitherto  deferred  any  minute  account  of  the  Innuit  of 
Norton  Sound,  preferring  to  give  my  own  impression  of  them 
unaffected  by  that  of  other  observers.  During  the  time  spent  at 
Unalakh'k  I  became  moderately  proficient  in  their  language,  and 
studied  their  mode  of  life  with  great  care. 

The  Innuit,  as  they  call  themselves,  belong  to  the  same  family 
as  the  Northern  and  Western  Eskimo.  I  have  frequently  used 
the  term  Eskimo  in  referring  to  them,  but  they  are  in  many 
respects  very  different  people  from  the  typical  tribes  called  by 
that  name  in  the  works  of  Parry,  Ross,  Simpson,  Kane,  and 
other  arctic  explorers.  Comparative  vocabularies  and  an  analy- 
sis of  the  different  branches  of  the  family  will  be  found  elsewhere 
in  this  volume.  The  present  remarks  refer  more  particularly  to 
their  mode  of  life. 

It  should  be  thoroughly  and  definitely  understood,  in  the  first 


THE   YUKON   TERRITORY. 


^Z7 


place,  that  they  are  not  Indians  ;  nor  have  they  any  known  rela- 
tion, pliysically,  philologically,  or  otherwise,  to  the  Indian  tribes 
of  North  America.  Their  grammar,  appearance,  habits,  and  even 
their  anatomy,  especially  in  the  form  of  the  skull,  separate  them 
widely  from  the  Indian  race.  On  the  other  hand,  it  is  almost 
equally  questionable  whether  they  are  even  distinctly  related  to 
the  Chukchees  and  other  probably  Mongolian  races,  of  the  east- 
ern part  of  Siberia.     This  is  discussed  elsewhere. 

The  Innuit  of  Norton  Sound  and  the  vicinity  are  of  three 
tribes,  each  of  which,  while  migrating  at  certain  seasons,  has 
its  own  peculiar  territory.  The  peninsula  between  Kotzebue  and 
Norton  Sounds  is  inhabited  by  the  Kdviaks  or  Kavidganut  Innuit. 
The  neck  of  this  peninsula  is  occupied  by  the  Mdhleniut  Innuit. 
The  shore  of  Norton  Sound  south  of  Cape  Denbigh  to  Pastolik 
is  the  country  of  the  Unalcds  or  Unaligiiuit  Jnnuit.  The  habits 
of  these  tribes  are  essentially  similar.  They  are  in  every  respect 
superior  to  any  tribe  of  Indians  with  which  I  am  acquainted. 

Their  complexion  I  have  described  as  brunette.  The  effect  of 
the  sun  and  wind,  especially  in  summer,  is  to  darken  their  hue, 
and  from  observing  those  who  lived  in  the  fort,  I  am  inclined  to 
think  that  a  regular  course  of  bathing  would  do  much  toward 
whitening  them.  They  are  sometimes  very  tall ;  I  have  often 
seen  both  men  and  women  nearly  si.v  feet  in  height,  and  have 
known  several  instances  where  men  were  taller.  Their  aver- 
age height  equals  that  of  most  civilized  races.  Their  strength 
is  often  very  great.  I  have  seen  a  Mahlemut  take  a  hundred- 
pound  sack  of  flour  under  each  arm,  and  another  in  his  teeth, 
and  walk  with  them  from  the  storehouse  to  the  boat,  a  distance 
of  some  twenty  rods,  without  inconvenience.  They  are  fond  of 
exercise,  and  practise  many  athletic  games,  such  as  football  or 
a  similar  game,  tossing  in  a  blanket  or  rather  walrus  hide,  run- 
ning races,  hurling  stones  or  lances,  lifting  weights,  and  wrestling. 
Their  boats  —  the  kyak  or  bidarka,  and  oomiak  or  bidarra  —  have 
been  already  described.  It  may  be  mentioned  in  this  connection 
that  the  oomiak  is  not  considered  among  the  Norton  Sound  Innuit 
as  a  "  women's  boat,"  nor  is  there  ever  any  hesitation  about  men's 
using  them.  In  this  they  differ  from  the  Eskimo  as  described  by 
arctic  explorers.  It  is  noticeable  that  the  more  northern  the  canoe, 
the  smaller  it  is  made.     The  kvak  of  Nunivak  Island  is  double  the 


11;  . 


138 


THE  YUKON  TERRITORY. 


I 


t    I 


I 


I' 


size  of  those  used  in  Hcring  Strait.  The  kyaks  arc  often  orna- 
mented with  heUiga  teeth,  or  carved  pieces  of  walrus  ivory, 
imitations  of  birds,  walrus,  or  seal.  The  prow  is  also  fashioned 
into  the  semblance  of  a  bird's  or  fish's  head.  Securely  seated  in 
his  kyak,  with  a  gut  shirt  strongly  tied  around  the  edge  of  the  hole, 
the  Innuit  is  at  home.  He  will  even  turn  over  his  kyak  and  come 
up  on  the  other  side,  by  skilful  use  of  his  paddle. 

Aziak  or  Sledge  Island  is  an  abrupt  rock  rising  out  of  the 
water,  with  a  landing  only  at  low  tide  in  good  weather.  I  was 
informed  by  the  captain  of  a  trader,  a  trustworthy  person,  that 
he  once  approached  the  island  to  trade,  in  rough  weather,  but 
could  not  send  a  boat  ashore,  as  it  was  impossible  to  land.  He 
lay  as  close  as  he  dared  under  the  lee  of  the  island.  Here  they 
saw  the  Innuit  tying  several  men  securely  into  their  kyaks,  on  the 
top  of  the  rock,  some  fifteen  or  twenty  feet  above  the  water. 
"When  all  was  done  each  man  grasped  his  double-ended  paddle, 
and  two  others  took  the  kyak  by  bow  and  stern  and  tossed  it, 
with  its  occupant,  into  the  water.  For  a  moment  they  disappeared 
under  the  waves,  but  instantly  rose  and  righted  themselves  ;  in  a 
few  minutes  they  were  alongside,  and  being  taken  on  board,  pro- 
duced furs  and  ivory  from  their  kyaks,  with  which  they  proceeded 
to  trade  for  tobacco  and  other  articles.  When  the  tide  and  wind 
fell  they  returned  to  the  island.  This  is  an  excellent  illustration 
of  the  wonderful  skill  with  which  they  learn  to  manage  these  little 
canoes.  In  his  kyak  the  Innuit  docs  not  hesitate  to  attack  the 
seal,  walrus,  or  whale.  Those  of  Norton  Sound  have  only  the 
seal  and  beluga,  but  those  of  Bering  Strait  have  abundant  oppor- 
tunities for  hunting  the  bowhead  and  walrus. 

They  are  good-humored  and  careless,  slow  to  anger,  and  usually 
ready  to  forgive  and  forget.  They  are  sometimes  revengeful ;  and 
murders,  generally  the  result  of  jealousy,  are  not  very  rare.  The 
women  are  modest,  but  a  want  of  chastity  in  an  unmarried  female 
is  hardly  looked  upon  as  a  fault.  Taking  this  fact  into  consider- 
ation, they  are  rather  free  from  immorality.  Among  the  Mahle- 
muts,  cousins,  however  remote,  do  not  marry,  and  one  wife  is  the 
rule.  Among  the  Kaviaks,  incest  is  not  uncommon,  and  two  or 
three  wives,  often  sisters,  arc  taken  by  those  who  can  afford  to 
support  them.  These  people  have  become  demoralized  by  trad- 
ing liquor  for  their  furs,  and  wide-spread  immorality  is  the  result. 


THE   YUKON   TERRITORY. 


139 


The  same  is  also  true  of  the  Kotzebue  Sound  Mahlemuts.  What 
we  should  call  immodesty  is  often  undeserving  of  such  a  term. 
Where  a  practice  is  universal  there  is  nothing  immodest  in  it,  and 
it  may  be  quite  consistent  with  morality.  For  instance,  the  Aleu- 
tians, men  and  women,  for  ages  have  been  accustomed  to  bathe 
together  in  the  sea.  They  do  not  think  of  there  being  any  im- 
modesty in  it,  yet  any  immorality  is  exceedingly  rare  among 
them.     Hence  we  should  not  judge  these  people  too  iiarshly. 

There  is  no  ceremony  connected  with  marriage  among  the 
Innuit,  though  presents  are  often  made  to  the  bride's  parents. 
Intermarriage  between  natives  o."  different  tribes  is  frequent.  If 
ill-behaved  or  barren,  the  wife  is  frequently  sent  away,  and  another 
takes  her  place.  Children  are  greatly  prized,  if  boys.  Girls  are 
at  a  discount.  Infanticide  is  common  among  them,  both  before 
and  after  birth.  As  an  excuse,  they  say  that  they  do  not  want 
and  cannot  support  so  many  daughters.  Other  women  do  not 
like  the  trouble  and  care  of  children,  and  destroy  them  for  that 
reason.  The  usual  method  is  to  take  the  child  out,  stuff  its  mouth 
with  grass,  and  desert  it.  I  have  seen  several  children  who  had 
been  picked  ujo  in  this  condition,  and  brought  up  by  others  than 
their  parents.  The  women  alone  destroy  children,  but  the  men 
seldom  punish  them  for  it,  and  doubtless  acquiesce  in  advance  in 
most  cases.  Sometimes  we  find  females  who  refuse  to  accept 
husbands,  preferring  to  adopt  masculine  manners,  following  the 
deer  on  the  mountains,  trapping  and  fishing  for  themselves. 

The  men  treat  their  wives  and  children  well.  The  latter  are 
never  punished,  and  seldom  need  correction,  being  obedient  and 
good-humored.  The  men  have  their  own  work.  Hunting  the 
deer  and  seal,  building  and  repairing  the  winter  houses,  making 
frames  for  boats,  sleds,  and  smw-shoes,  preparing  sealskins  for  use 
on  boats  or  for  boot-soles,  trapping,  and  bringing  home  the  results 
of  the  chase,  —  in  fact,  all  severe  labor,  —  is  performed  by  the 
men.  Snaring  partridges,  drying  and  preparing  fish,  cutting  up 
the  meat  when  brought  into  camp,  picking  berries,  dressing  deer- 
skins and  making  clothing,  cooking,  and  taking  care  of  the  chil- 
dren,—  these  are  solely  feminine  pursuits.  Both  se.xes  join  in  pad- 
dling the  oomiaks,  celebrating  their  annual  dances,  bringing  and 
cutting  wood,  and  other  work  of  a  like  nature.  The  women  are 
seldom  beaten,  except  for  ill-temper  or  incontinency.     They  keep 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


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1.0 


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lii  yi  12.5 

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Photographic 

Sciences 
Corporation 


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WUSVCR.N.Y.  USSO 

(716)t73-4S03 


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^ 


^ 


I 


II . 


140 


THE  YUKON   TERRITORY. 


their  persons  moderately  clean,  braiding  the  hair  on  each  side, 
and  twisting  beads  or  strips  of  wolfskin  in  with  the  braids  for 
ornament.  They  arc  often  of  pleasing  appearance,  sometimes 
qiutc  pretty.  They  preserve  their  beauty  much  longer  than  In- 
dian women.  Their  clear  complexion  and  high  color,  with  their 
good-humor,  make  them  agreeable  companions,  and  they  are  often 
very  intelligent.  A  noticeable  feature  is  their  teeth.  These  are 
always  sound  and  white,  but  are  almost  cylindrical,  and  in  old 
people  arc  worn  down  even  with  the  gums,  producing  a  singu- 
lar appearance.  The  eyes  are  not  oblique,  as  in  the  Mongolian 
races,  but  are  small,  black,  and  almost  even  with  the  face.  The 
nose  is  flat  and  disproportionally  small.  Many  of  the  Innuit 
have   heavy   beards   and   mustaches,   while   some    pull   out    the 

former.  The  men  all  wear  the  labrcts,  but 
do  not  tattoo.  The  women  generally  have 
a  few  lines  tattooed  on  the  chin,  from  the 
lower  lip  downward.  The  inhabitants  of  the 
Diomedc  Islands  tattoo  extensively  ;  they  also 
wear  large  labrcts  made  of  hypochlorite  and 
finely  polished.  The  tattooing  is  in  spiral 
lines  and  waving  scrolls,  seldom  or  never  rep- 
resenting objects.  The  Norton  Sound  Innuit 
women  never  wear  labrcts,*  but  occasionally 
pierce  the  nose  and  ears.  I  have  never  seen  any  ornament 
worn  in  the  nose,  but  ear-rings  are  not  uncommon.  The  fol- 
lowing sketch  represents  the  usual  form.  They  are  carved 
from  beluga  teeth.  Among  the  Mdganitts,  a  tribe  to  the 
south  of  the  Yukon-mouth,  the  women  wear  a 
peculiar  labret.  It  is  flat  and  curved,  like  a  bent 
nail,  with  a  broad  head,  which  goes  inside  the 
mouth,  and  prevents  the  labret  from  slipping 
through.  They  are  slightly  carved,  and  orna- 
mented with  dots  and  lines.  The  Iioles  are 
pierced  through  the  front  of  the  lower  lip  and 
close  together,  not  under  the  corners  of  the  mouth,  as  among  t'.ie 
men.     The  curved  ends  stick  out  like  little  horns. 

In  Norton  Sound  the  holes  for  the  labrcts  are  not  always  pierced 

*  The  figure  represents  :  A,  the  M.iRcmiit  fcnuilc  labret ;  11,  c,  the  Okeeogcmut ;  the 
rest  arc  Norton  Sound  labrets  of  different  patterns. 


Labrcis. 


Ear-rings. 


THE   YUKON   TERRITORY. 


T41 


each  side, 
braids  for 
sometimes 
r  than  In- 
with  their 
y  are  often 
These  are 
md  in  old 
g  a  singu- 
Mongohan 
face.     The 
the   Innuit 
11   out    the 
abrets,  but 
jrally  have 
,  from   the 
ants  of  the 
' ;  they  also 
hlorite  and 
s  in    spiral 
[  never  rep- 
und  Innuit 
ccasionally 
ornament 
The  fol- 
ire   carved 
)e   to   the 
en  wear  a 
ike  a  bent 
inside  the 
11    slipi)ing 
and   orna- 
lioles   are 
er  lip  and 
among  t'.ic 

lys  pierced 

cogcmut ;  the 


in  youth.  Whenever  the  act  is  performed  a  feast  is  given,  and 
the  holes  arc  made  by  means  of  an  awl,  with  great  solemnity. 
This  would  indicate  that  originally  the  pri  :tice  had  some  greater 
significance  than  mere  ornament.  It  is  now  impossible  to  dis- 
cover what  that  significance  might  have  been.  At  first  a  mere 
ivory  peg  is  inserted  (k,  c;)  with  a  hole  in  which  a  small  wooden 
peg  is  put  to  keep  it  in  place.  After  the  opening  has  healed, 
others  a  little  larger  are  inserted,  and  so  on,  until  the  hole 
will  admit  a  peg  of  the  full  size,  and  shaped  more  like  a  but- 
ton or  stud  (i\  !•:).  (Ornaments  carved  fum  beluga  teeth  are 
commonly  worn.  They  represent  fig- 
ures of  men,  animals,  or  fish.  These 
are  some  of  them,  representing  a  flat- 
fish, goose,  and  seal.  Walrus  teeth,  ob- 
tained by  barter,  are  also  used  in  carv- 


uig. 


Amulets. 


The  dress  of  the  men  has  already 
been  described.  It  reaches  to  the  mid- 
dle of  the  thigh,  and  is  cut  around 
nearly  or  quite  straight.  The  female 
dress,  on  the  other  hand,  is  continued  in  two  rounded  flaps 
below  the  knees,  before  and  behind.  They  arc  trimmed  with 
strips  of  white  deerskin  with  the  hair  cut  short,  separated  by 
narrow  strips  of  dried  fishskin  and  edged  with  strips  of  wolverine 
or  wolf  skin,  so  cut  that  the  long  hair  makes  a  fringe.  The  hood 
is  trimmed  with  a  broad  piece  of  wolfskin,  with  frequently  a 
strip  of  the  white  skin  of  the  arctic  hare  inside  for  warmth. 
Tlie  whole  effect  is  very  pretty,  especially  when  the  parka  is 
made  of  the  tame  Siberian  reindeer  skin,  which  is  mottled  with 
white  and  delicate  shades  of  brown.  The  fishskin  referred  to, 
when  prepared  for  use,  looks  like  brown  marbled  paper.  It  has 
'.10  scales,  and  I  have  not  seen  the  fish  from  which  it  is  taken. 

The  women  wear  breeches  and  boots  made  in  one  piece,  while 
the  men  use  deerskin  socks,  and  boots  which  are  not  sewed  on 
to  the  breeches.  All  use  a  belt  of  some  kiul.  The  favorite 
belt  among  the  women  is  made  of  the  portion  of  the  lower  jaw 
iif  the  reindeer  which  contains  the  front  teeth.  This  piece  of  bone 
is  very  small,  —  I  have  counted  the  teeth  of  one  hundred  and  fifty 
deer  in  one   belt,  —  and  these  belts  are  not  uncommon.     They 


Il 


142 


THE  YUKON   TERRITORY. 


1 


are  sewed  on  a  broad  strip  of  leather,  fastened  with  a  large 
button  or  bead  in  front.  From  the  belt  hangs  the  needle-case, 
usually  made  of  the  humerus  of  a  swan,  plugged  at  one  end  and 


Done  needle-case. 

having  a  removable  stopper  at  the  other.     It  is  usually  orna- 
mented with  black  lines,  as  in  the  above  example. 

A  man's  wealth  is  frequently  estimated  by  parkies.  They  will 
buy,  with  their  surplus  property,  large  numbers  of  parkies.  Ten 
deerskin,  or  two  mink  parkies,  or  one  sable  parka,  are  equivalent 
to  a  gun.  Sealskins,  sables,  guns,  and  ammunition  arc  also  units 
of  value.  They  can  count  up  to  a  hundred,  and  some  of  the 
more  intelligent  to  five  hundred.  They  frequently  keep  accounts 
by  tying  knots  in  a  string  or  notching  a  stick.  They  divide  the 
year  by  the  seasons,  and  time  by  lunar  months,  and  days.  They 
can  also  estimate  with  much  accuracy  how  much  of  the  day  has 
passed,  by  the  position  of  the  sun  or  stars.  They  are  very  quick 
at  understanding,  and  can  draw  very  reliable  maps,  the  only 
diflficulty  being  that  far-off  distances  are  exaggerated  when 
compared  with  those  laid  down  as  nearer  their  homes.  They 
are  all  provided  with  flint  and  steel  for  lighting  fires,  but  formerly 
used  a  different  apparatus  on  the  principle  of  a  fiddle-bow  drill. 
This  consisted  of  a  mouthpiece  of  bone  or  ivory  with  a  small  hol- 
low in  it,  a  flat  piece  of  very  dry  soft  wood,  a  pencil-shaped 
piece  of  dry  hard  wood,  and  a  bow  with  a  slackened  string.     One 

end  of  the  pencil  fitted  into  the  hollow 
in  the  mouthpiece.  The  latter  is  held 
between  the  teeth.  A  turn  of  the  bow- 
string was  taken  around  the  pencil ;  the 
tablet  of  .soft  wood  was  held  in  the  left 
hand.  The  pencil  was  held  firmly  against 
the  tablet  and  the  bow  rapidly  moved 
back  and  forth  by  the  right  hand.  The 
pencil  of  course  revolved  rapidly,  the  fric- 
tion created  a  small  pile  of  dust  on  the 
tablet,  which  was  quickly  ignited  by  the  heat.  A  piece  of  tinder 
preserved  the  light,  and  the  fire  was  obtained. 


} 


Innuit  fire-drill. 


THE  YUKON   TERRITORY. 


'43 


nth   a   large 

needle-case, 

one  end  and 


isually  orna- 

I.     They  will 
arkics.     Ten 
re  equivalent 
ire  also  units 
some  of  the 
ccp  accounts 
ey  divide  the 
days.     They 
the  day  has 
•e  very  quick 
IS,  the   only 
jrated    when 
)mcs.     They 
but  formerly 
lie-bow  drill, 
a  small  hol- 
encil-shaped 
One 
the  hollow 
tter   is   held 
of  the    bow- 
pencil  ;  the 
in  the  left 
mly  against 
idly    moved 
hand.     The 
lly,  the  fric- 
lust  on  the 
ce  of  tinder 


>tring 


PiKulka. 


Formerly  bows,  arrows,  and  lances  were  their  weapons.  !n 
Norton  Sound  they  are  now  supplanted  by  guns  obtained  from 
the  traders.  Iron  was  unknown  among  these  natives  two  genera- 
tions ago.  All  their  weapons  were  of  ivory,  bone,  and  slate, 
except  a  few  native  copper  implements  which  came  from  the 
Indians  of  the  interior.  In  early  times,  the  old  men  say,  a  knife 
or  a  string  of  beads  was  worth  fifty  marten  skins.  A  peculiar 
kind  of  knife,  shaped  like  a  chopping-knife  and  called  a  pignlka, 
is  used  in  cutting  skins.  It  is  made  of  sheet-iron  and  has  a  bone 
handle.  It  is  preferable  to  scissors  in  cutting  furs,  a3  it  only  cuts 
the  skin  and  not  the  hair. 

To  this  day  the  Innuit  have  no  knowledge  of  working  iron  by 
means  of  heat,  although  with  the  aid  of  a  file  they 
will  make  quite  u.seful  knives,  saws,  and  other  C 
articles,  out  of  scraps  of  old  sheet  or  hoop  iron.  / 
While  the  ancient  Indians  made  their  cutting 
instruments  and  tools  of  stone  or  native  copper, 
the  ancient  Innuit  substituted,  in  many  cases, 
bone  and  ivory.  Stone  arrowheads,  formerly  the  universal 
weapons  among  the  Tinneh,  are  now  rarely  to  be  found.  On 
the  other  hand,  the  ivory  weapons  of  the  Innuit  are  still  in 
use.  The  Indian  discarded  the  stone  arrowhead  entirely,  for  one 
of  iron;  the  Innuit  retains  the  ivory  head,  merely  adding  to  it  a 
tip  of  iron.  The  Indian  leaves  the  bow  to  the  children;  the  more 
a(|uatic  Innuit  finds  a  gun  out  of  place  in  his  kyak,  and  still  uses 
the  weapon  of  his  ancestors  to  hunt  the  seal.  Ashore,  his  weaporj 
is  usually  a  gun.  The  guns  most  common  among  them  are  very 
li,L;ht  double-barrelled  Belgian  fowling-pieces,  with  an  average 
bore  of  twenty-eight  or  thirty.  These  are  obtained  from  the 
Kotzobue  Sound  and  Grantley  Harbor  traders.  South  of  Nofton 
Sou. id  the  Innuit  are  provided  with  very  few  guns,  and  these  are 
mostly  long  Hudson  Bay  flintlocks,  obtained  by  trading  with  ^he 
Tinneh  tribes  of  the  interior. 

Trading  is  carried  on  to  a  large  extent  between  the  Indians 
aiul  Innuit.  The  former  sell  their  wooden  dishes  and  other 
household  articles,  furs,  wolf  and  wolverine  skins,  to  the  latter  for 
oil,  sealskins,  seal  and  walrus  line,  and  articles  obtained  by  the 
Innuit  from  the  traders.  The  Innuit  again  trade  beaver  skins, 
Wooden  dishes,  and  other  articles  of  wood  to  the  Tuski  and  other 


144 


THE  YUKON   TERRITORY. 


tribes  of  Bering  Strait,  in  exchange  for  walrus  ivory  and  skins  of 
the  tame  Siberian  reindeer,  which  the  latter  obtain  from  the 
Chukchees.  In  this  way  a  commerce  is  constantly  carried  on 
between  the  interior  tribes  of  America  and  Siberia,  by  means  of 
the  Innuit,  who  act  as  middle-men.  The  bitter  enmity  and  con- 
stant hostility  which  are  found  between  the  northern  and  western 
Eskimo  and  the  Indians  do  not  exist  between  the  latter  and  the 
Innuit  of  the  western  and  southwestern  coast.  It  is  true  that 
both  exhibit  great  jealousy  in  regard  to  their  boundary  lines. 
These  lines  are  generally  formed  by  the  summit  of  the  watershed 
between  the  small  rivers  which  empty  into  the  sea  and  those 
which  fall  into  the  Yukon.  They  coincide  nearly  with  the  lino 
of  the  wooded  district  to  which  the  Indians  arc  confined.  Any 
man  of  either  race  found  on  the  wrong  side  of  the  line  is  lial)le  to 
be  .shot  at  sight,  and  deaths  occur  every  season  from  this  cause. 
Nevertheless,  a  tacit  arrangement  exists  between  adjoining  tribes 
of  the  two  races,  so  that  an  Innuit  who  kills  a  deer  on  Indian  ter- 
ritory may  retain  the  meat,  provided  he  leaves  the  skin  at  the 
nearest  Indian  village.  The  Indians  cross  the  Uli'ikuk  portage 
every  winter,  and  trade  at  Unalakli'k  with  the  Innuit.  The  latter 
cross  the  Anvik  portage  at  the  same  season,  and  trade  with  the 
Yukon  Ingaliks.  Great  caution  is  used  by  both  while  in  foreign 
territory,  and  nearly  every  year  a  panic  occurs  on  the  coast  or  in 
the  interior,  from  some  rumor  that  the  hostile  race  ire  preparing 
for  invasion  and  war. 

The  Indians  call  the  Innuit  and  Eskimo  I'ska'mi,  or  sorcerers. 
Kagitskci'mi  is  the  Innuit  name  for  the  casines  in  which  their 
shamans  perform  their  superstitious  rites.  From  this  root  comes 
the  word  Eskimo.  The  belief  in  shamani.sm  is  much  the  same 
among  the  Innuit  as  that  which  is  entertained  among  the  In- 
dians, but  the  rites  of  the  Innuit  shamans  differ  in  the  manner 
of  performance  from  those  of  the  other  race,  and  very  much  from 
those  of  the  Chukchees  and  olher  inland  races  of  Siberia. 

A  Mahlcmut  shaman  covers  his  head  and  the  upper  part  of  his 
body  with  a  kamlayka.  He  holds  a  wand,  often  of  ivory,  in  each 
hand,  and  beats  on  the  floor  of  the  casine,  keeping  time  with  a 
monotonous  chorus.  When  the  frenzy  seizes  him  he  rolls  on  the 
floor  in  violent  convulsions.  His  body  and  face  are  concealed 
beneath  the  kamlayka,  which  rustles  violently  with  his  motions, 


THE  YUKON   TERRITORY. 


M5 


and  skins  of 
in   from    the 
y  carried  on 
by  means  of 
nity  and  con- 
and  western 
atter  and  the 
is  true  that 
undary  hnes. 
he  watershed 
:a  and    those 
ivith  the  line 
nfined.     Any 
ne  is  hable  to 
m  this  cause, 
joining  tribes 
m  Indian  ter- 
e  skin  at  the 
ukuk  portage 
t.     The  latter 
radc  with  the 
lile  in  foreign 
\c  coast  or  in 
irc  preparing 

or  sorcerers. 

which  their 
s  root  comes 
ch  the  same 
ong  the   In- 

the  manner 
y  much  from 
|)eria. 

r  part  of  his 
vory,  in  each 

time  with  a 
rolls  on  the 
ire  concealed 

his  motions, 


while  all  watch  anxiously  for  any  words  which  may  escape  him 
during  the  fit.  Such  are  regarded  as  omens  of  deep  significance, 
and  the  hearers  are  impliciily  guided  by  ihem. 

The  totemic  system  is  not  found  among  the  Innuit.  ICach  boy, 
when  arrived  at  the  age  of  puberty,  .selects  an  animal,  fish,  or  bird, 
which  he  adopts  as  a  patron.  The  spirit  which  looks  after  the 
animals  of  that  species  is  supposed  to  act  henceforth  as  his  guar- 
dian. Sometimes  the  animal  is  selected  in  early  childhood  by 
the  parents.  If  he  has  long-continued  want  of  success  in  his 
pursuits,  he  will  sometimes  change  his  patron.  They  do  not  ab- 
stain from  eating  or  using  the  flesh  and  skin  of  the  animal  which 
they  have  chosen,  as  do  some  tribes  of  Indians.  They  always 
wear  a  piece  of  the  skin  or  a  bone  of  that  animal,  which  they 
regard  as  an  amulet,  and  use  every  precaution  against  its  loss, 
which  would  be  regarded  as  a  grave  calamity.  Whet  desiring 
ansistance  or  advice  they  do  not  themselves  seek  it,  but  employ 
a  shaman  to  address  their  patron  spirit.  These  customs  do  not 
extend  to  females.  The  spirits  of  the  ileer,  seal,  salmon,  and  be- 
luga, are  regarded  by  all  with  special  veneration  ;  as  to  these 
animals  they  owe  their  supj)ort.  Each  has  its  season,  and  while 
hunting,  it  is  almost  impossible  to  induce  them  to  attempt  any 
other  work,  as  they  seem  to  think  each  spirit  demands  exclusive 
attention  while  he  extends  his  favors.  The  homes  of  these  spirits 
are  supposed  to  be  in  the  north.  The  auroras  are  the  reflections 
from  the  lights  used  during  supposed  dances  of  the  spirits.  Siij- 
gularly  enough,  they  call  the  constellation  of  Ursa  Major  by  the 
name  of  Okil-6kpuk\  signifying  Great  Bear,  and  consider  him  to 
be  ever  on  the  watch  while  the  other  spirits  carry  on  their  festiv- 
ities. None  of  the  spirits  are  regarded  as  supreme,  nor  have  the 
Innuit  any  idea  of  a  deity,  a  state  of  future  reward  and  pun- 
ishment, or  any  system  of  morality.  Many  of  them  have  been 
christened  by  the  Russian  missionaries,  but  none  have  any  idea 
of  Christianity. 

The  dead  are  enclosed  above  ground  in  a  box,  in  the  manner 
previously  described.  The  annexed  sketch  shows  the  form  of  the 
sarcophagus,  which  in  this  case  is  ornamented  with  snow-shoes, 
a  reel  for  seal  linos,  a  fishing-rod,  and  a  wooden  dish  or  kantag. 
The  latter  is  found  with  every  grave,  and  usually  one  is  placed  in 
the  boy  with  the  body.      Sometimes  a  part  of  the  property  of  the 

10 


146 


THE   YUKON   TERRITORY. 


I 


dead  person  is  placed  in  the  coffin  or  about  it.  Occasionally  the 
whole  is  thus  disjioscd  of.  Generally  the  furs,  provisions,  and 
clothing  (except  such  as  has  been  worn)  are  divided  among  the 
nearer   relations  of  the   dead,   or   remain    in   possession   of  his 

family  if  he  has  one.  Such  cloth- 
ing, household  utensils,  and  weap- 
ons as  the  deceased  had  in  daily 
use  are  almost  invariably  enclosed 
in  his  coffin.  If  there  are  many 
deaths  about  the  same  time,  or  an 
epidemic  occurs,  everything  belong- 
ing to  the  dead  is  destroyed.  The 
/  house  in  which  a  death  occurs  is 
■  ^mw^mMW^/  always  deserted,  and  usually  de- 
stroyed.     In  order  to  avoid  this,  it 

Inniiit  gr.ive.  ,  «  »  •    1 

IS  not  uncommon  to  take  the  sick 
person  out  of  the  house  and  put  him  in  a  tent  to  die. 

A  woman's  coffin  may  be  known  by  the  kettles  and  other  fem- 
inine utensils  about  it.  There  is  no  distinction  between  the  sexes 
in  method  of  burial.  On  the  outside  of  the  coffin  figures  are  usu- 
ally drawn  in  red  ochre.  Figures  of  fur  animals  indicate  that  the 
dead  person  was  a  good  trapper  ;  of  seal  or  deer,  show  his  profi- 
ciency as  a  hunter  ;  representations  of  parkies,  that  he  was 
wealthy:  the  manner  of  his  death  is  also  occasionally  indicated. 

For  four  days  after  a  death  the  women  in  the  village  do  no  sew- 
ing, for  five  days  the  men  do  not  cut  wood  with  an  axe.  The 
relatives  of  the  dead  must  not  seek  birds'  eggs  on  the  overhanging 
cliffs  for  a  year,  or  their  feet  will  slip  from  under  them,  and  they 
will  be  dashed  to  pieces.  No  mourning  is  worn  or  indicated,  ex- 
cept by  cutting  the  hair.  Women  sit  and  watch  the  body,  chant- 
ing a  mournful  refrain,  until  it  is  interred.  They  seldom  suspect 
that  others  have  brought  the  death  about  by  shamanism,  as  the 
Indians  almost  invariably  do.  At  the  end  of  a  year  from  the 
death  a  festival  is  given,  presents  are  made  to  those  who  assisted 
in  making  the  coffin,  and  the  period  of  mourning  is  over.  Their 
grief  seldom  seems  deep,  but  they  indulge  for  a  long  time  in  wail- 
ing for  the  dead  at  intervals.  I  have  seen  several  women  who 
refused  to  take  a  second  husband,  and  had  remained  single,  in 
spite  of  repeated  offers,  for  many  years. 


! 


THE  YUKON   TERRITORY. 


147 


onally  the 
sions,  and 
imong  the 
ion   of  his 
nich  cloth- 
antl  wcap- 
l  in   daily 
ly  enclosed 
are   many 
time,  or  an 
ins  bclong- 
>ycd.     The 
1  occurs  is 
.isually   de- 
void this,  it 
ike  the  sick 

1  other  fem- 
;n  the  sexes 
res  are  usu- 
\tc  that  the 
w  his  profi- 
lat   he   was 
indicated, 
do  no  sew- 
axe.     The 
vcrhanginj; 
1,  and  they 
licatcd,  ex- 
ody,  chant- 
Dm  suspect 
ism,  as  the 
r  from  the 
ho  assisted 
•cr.     Their 
Ime  in  wail- 
omen  who 
single,  in 


I 


Their  habits  are  very  regular.  ICvery  season  the  same  round 
is  gone  through  as  in  the  previous  one,  only  varied  by  the  differ- 
ences in  temperature  and  in  the  prevalence  of  tish  and  game. 

In  February  they  leave  the  .illages  and  repair  to  the  moun- 
tains, with  all  their  families.  They  pursue  the  deer  until  the 
snow  begins  to  melt.  I  am  informed  that  among  the  Miihlemuts, 
near  their  more  inland  villages,  they  will  not  permit  any  water  to 
he  boiled  inside  of  the  houses  while  the  deer  hunt  continues. 
This  is  only  one  of  many  similar  superstitions.  The  deer  are 
stalked  ;  noosed  in  mahout  snares,  set  where  they  are  accustomed 
to  run  ;  or  driven  into  pounds  built  for  the  purpose,  where  they 
are  killed  by  hundreds.  Since  the  introiluction  of  fire-arms,  about 
fifteen  years  ago,  the  number  of  deer  has  been  very  greatly 
(Iimini.shed.  At  the  same  time  the  bow  and  arrow  have  fallen 
into  disuse,  and  it  would  be  impossible  at  present  for  them  to 
obtain  sufficient  food  without  guns  and  annnunition.  The  K;iv- 
iak  peninsula  formerly  abounded  with  deer  ;  at  present  none  are 
found  there. 

When  the  snow  melts  and  the  ice  comes  out  of  the  small  rivers, 
the  Innuit  return  to  their  homes.  Myriads  of  water-fowl  ar- 
rive, and  breed  on  the  steep  cliffs  of  Ik'sboro'  Island,  and  similar 
promontories  of  the  coast.  About  this  time  the  young  men 
seek  for  eggs  and  kill  the  parent  binls,  wliile  the  older  and  more 
wealthy  start  for  Grantley  Harbor  and  Kotzcbue  Sound,  where 
the  traders  meet  them  as  soon  as  open  water  affords  oppo' tunity. 
As  June  arrives,  eggs  are  more  abundant,  and  form  for  a  while 
the  chief  article  of  diet.  (juIIs'  eggs  are  rejected  by  the  women 
and  children,  who  believe  that  they  will  grow  old  and  decrepit  if 
liiey  eat  them.  Seal  may  also  be  obtained  in  small  numbers, 
and  immense  schools  of  herring  visit  the  shores,  remaining 
about  ten  days  and  then  disappearing  for  the  season. 

As  July  advances  the  salmon  arrive,  and  every  one  is  found 
upon  the  shore.  Gill  nets  are  stretched  out  from  the  brach,  and 
the  sands  are  red  with  the  fish,  split  and  hung  up  to  dry  ;  dogs 
and  men  have  as  much  as  they  can  eat,  and  large  supi)lies  of 
I'lkali  are  laid  in  for  winter  use.  While  the  fishery  lasts  no  wood 
must  be  cut  with  an  axe,  or  the  salmon  will  disappear.  Near 
the  end  of  July  a  small  fleet  of  bidarnis  arrive  with  those  who 
have  been  away  trading,  and  a  deputation  of  Tuski  or  Okee- 


148 


THE  YUKON   TERRITORY. 


f'-' 


}■ 


(Sgcmuts  with  walrus  ivory,  whalebone,  and  tame  reindeer  skins 
for  barter. 

In  August  many  of  the  women  repair  to  the  hills,  where  they 
hunt  the  young  reindeer  fawns.  The  latter  arc  caught  by  run- 
ning after  them,  or  in  snares.  Their  skins  are  valued  for  cloth- 
ing, and  make  a  very  pretty  light  parka.  They  are  of  a  uniform 
brownish  red,  lighter  on  the  belly,  and  not  spotted  like  the  young 
of  the  red  deer.  The  skins  are  nearly  valueless  until  about  a 
month  old,  and  it  is  hardly  necessary  to  contradict  Zagoskin's 
fables  about  the  unborn  young.  The  latter,  I  believe,  are  not 
eaten  by  the  Innuit ;  at  least,  I  have  frequently  seen  them  thrown 
to  the  dogs.  The  stomach  of  the  adult  deer,  filled  with  half- 
digested  willow-tips,  is  regarded  as  a  delicacy,  and  eaten  as  we 
do  salad.  The  supply  of  backfat  is  also  laid  in  at  this  season ; 
later  it  disappears. 

In  September  many  repair  to  Pastol   Hay   and  Norton   I^ay, 
where  they  kill  the  beluga,  left  in  shallows  by  the  tide.     The 
seal  fishery  is  at  this  time  in  full  blast,  and  the  natives  will  not 
work  on  the  frames   of  boats  or  kyaks.     As  the   cold  weather 
comes  on,  the  rutting  season  of  the  deer  comes  with  it,  and  most 
of  the  Innuit  repair  to  the  mountains  after  them.     At  this  season 
the  supplies  of  deerskins,  sinews,  and  meat   are  laid  in  for  the 
winter.    About  the  middle  of  October  the  shores  of  the  Sound  are 
girded  with  ice.     The  seal  disappear,  but  myriads  of  a  small  fish, 
like  tom-cod,  are  found  all  along  the  shores,  and  are 
fished  for  through  holes  in  the  ice.     The  hook  is  pe- 
culiar.    It  is  made  of  a  small  oval  piece  of  bone  with 
a  sharp  pin  inserted  into  it  diagonally.    It  is  not  baited, 
\^       as  the  fish  bite  at  the  ivory,  which  is  tied  on  a  whale- 
\       bone  thread,  whose  elasticity  gives  the  hook  a  tremu- 
J      lous  motion  in  the  water.     The  sinker  is  also  an  oval 
J?      piece  of  bone  or  ivory.     These  little  fish  are  excellent 
#*      eating,  and  are  caught  by  thousands  at  Unalaklik. 
^i^  Hy  this  time  the  majority  have  returned  to  the  villages, 

fish"iiook    ^ntl  trapping  commences.     The  women  are  at  work  on 
andsinker.    the  wiutcr  clothiug,  and  the  season  of  festivity  sets  in. 
The  greater  part  of  November  and  half  of  December  is  occu- 
pied by  dances  and  festivals.     About  January  the  trade  with  the 
Indians  commences,  and  in  February   they  again  repair  to  the 


THL   YUKON   TERRITORY. 


149 


idccr  skins 


mountains  as  before.  This  gives  a  sketch  of  their  mode  of  life 
(hiring  the  year.  The  dances  and  winter  festivities  deserve  more 
minute  description. 

All  the  Innuit  are  fond  of  dancing  and  singing  together.  The 
princij)al  jwint,  in  both  Innuit  and  Indian  dances,  is,  to  make  as 
many  different  kinds  of  motion  with  the  body  and  arms  as  pos- 
sible, always  keeping  the  most  exact  time  with  the  chorus  and 
with  each  other.  The  dances  take  place  in  the  casine  of  tlie  vil- 
lage, and  time  is  kept  by  a  number  of  old  men,  who  Icail  the 
chorus  and  beat  time  with  an  elastic  wand  on  a  sort  of  large 
tambourine.  Their  festivals  may  be  divided  into  two  classes,  — 
one  where  they  meet  simply  to  dance  and  sing,  and  the  other  when 
there  are  also  other  ends  in  view.  In  the  former  the  singers  con- 
fine themselves  strictly  to  the  chorus  "  L'ng  hi  yah,"  &c.,  which 
has  previously  been  described.  These  dances  are  held  whenever 
a  sufficient  number  happen  to  meet  in  the  casine  a. id  desire  it,  but 
always  in  the  evening.  The  other  festivals  also  take  place  in  the 
evening,  and  are  of  diiVerent  kinds.  First,  there  is  the  opening 
festival  of  the  winter,  which  differs  from  all  the  others.  Then 
there  are  festivals  at  which  the  givers  desire  to  Indicate  their 
friendship  for  each  other  by  making  presents  in  a  manner  which 
will  be  afterwards  described.  A  third  kind  of  festival  is  given  a 
year  after  the  death  of  a  relation.  A  fourth,  when  a  wealthy  man 
wishes  to  make  himself  the  reputation  of  a  public  benefactor.  A 
fifth,  when  a  man  wishes  to  redress  an  injury  which  he  has  done 
to  another,  and  a  sixth,  when  the  village  unites  in  inviting  the 
inhabitants  of  another  village  to  partake  of  their  hospitality. 

The  opening  festival  of  the  season  is  usually  held  early  in 
November.  No  women  participate,  except  as  spectators.  The  in- 
variable chorus  is  begun,  and  kept  up  until  all  the  young  male  in- 
habitants arc  collected  in  the  casine.  As  soon  as  all  are  present, 
dishes  of  charcoal  ground  up  with  oil  are  brought  in  ;  all  the  young 
men  strip  themselves  and  proceed  to  paint  their  faces  and  bodies. 
No  particular  pattern  is  followed,  but  each  one  suits  his  own  fancy. 
When  all  are  duly  adorned  they  leave  the  casine  in  single  file,  end- 
ing with  the  boys.  Attired  in  Adam's  original  costume,  they  visit 
every  house  in  the  village,  chanting  as  they  go.  I'^ach  family  has 
prepared  dishes  of  eatables  according  to  their  means.  These  are 
given  to  the  performers;  and  when  all  the  houses  have  been  visited, 


'50 


THE   YUKON   TERRITORY. 


—  the  atmosphere  meanwhile  perhaps  many  degrees  below  zero, — 
they  return  laden  to  tiie  easine.  Passing  under  the  floor,  eaeh  one 
stands  a  moment  in  the  central  opening,  ehants  for  a  few  seconds 
while  the  old  men  beat  the  drums,  and  then  springs  out  and  de- 
posits on  the  floor  the  dish  he  carries.  When  all  have  come  in 
they  form  in  a  hollow  square,  each  one  holding  a  dish  in  both 
hands,  A  peculiar  chant  is  begiui  by  one  of  the  old  men,  and  the 
others  join  in  with  him;  they  then  turn  towards  the  north  corner 
of  the  building,  chanting,  and  at  a  given  signal  all  raise  the  dishes 
of  food  which  they  carry,  above  their  heads  in  a  northerly  direc- 
tion, at  the  same  time  looking  down  and  uttering  a  hissing  sound. 
This  is  repealed  several  times  ;  the  chant  then  continues  for  a 
few  minutes,  when  they  turn  to  the  east  and  repeat  the  perform- 
ance ;  and  again  to  the  south  and  west.  This  is  to  exorcise  evil 
spirits.  This  being  done,  all  set  to  and  dispose  of  the  eatables. 
When  the  feast  is  over  they  proceed  to  wash  ofl"  the  paint,  at 
which  stage  of  the  performance  most  civilized  spectators  are 
obliged  by  the  odor  to  retire.  After  the  washing  is  concluded 
all  join  in  the  ordinary  chorus  and  disperse  to  their  homes. 

The  third  kind  of  festival  );i  given  by  *.he  relatives  of  the  dead, 
both  male  and  female.  They  appear  by  the  underground  passage, 
carrying  food  and  presents.  Placing  them  on  the  floor,  they  join 
in  the  usual  chorus.  The  motions  of  the  'females  are  graceful  and 
easy.  The  men  strive  to  outdo  each  other  in  jumping  and  ex- 
treme exertions  of  every  muscle  of  the  body,  always  keeping 
perfect  time.  Ik'tween  the  meaningless  syllables  of  the  chorus, 
words  are  interpolated,  eulogizing  the  virtues  of  the  deceased  and 
relating  his  exploits  in  hunting  and  fishing.  The  men  imitate  in 
their  actions  the  motions  of  approacliing  the  deer,  of  .shooting, 
pursuing,  and  of  taking  off  the  skin.  The  .same  dumb  show  is  car- 
ried out  until  the  relation  of  the  history  of  the  dead  man  is  com- 
pleted. The  women  then  distribute  the  eatables  to  the  friends  of 
the  family.  The  men  distribute  the  presents.  Some  trifle,  such 
as  a  leaf  of  tobacco  or  a  pair  of  sealskin  boot-soles,  is  given  to 
every  spectator.  A  handsome  gift  falls  to  him  who  made  the 
coffin,  and  smaller  presents  to  others  who  assisted  at  the  inter- 
ment. After  this  is  over  a  more  lively  chant  begins,  indicating 
that  the  season  of  mourning  is  over,  and  that  the  relatives  have 
performed  their  duty.     With  this  the  exhibition  closes. 


THK   YUKON    TERRITORY. 


15' 


ow  zero,  — 
r,  each  one 
L'W  seconds 
lit  and  dc- 
c  conic  in 
ih  in  both 
LMi,  and  the 
irtli  corner 
the  dishes 
lerly  diiec- 
sing  sound, 
in  lies  for  a 
c  pcrform- 
;orcisc  evil 
e  eatables, 
e  paint,  at 
:tators   are 
concluded 
homes. 
r  the  dead, 
1(1  passage, 
,  they  join 
racel'iil  and 
g  and  ex- 
s  keeping 
the  chorus, 
ceased  and 
imitate  in 
shooting, 
low  is  car- 
an  is  corn- 
friends  of 
trifle,  such 
s  given  to 
made  the 
the  inter- 
indicating 
itives  have 


The  fourth  festival  is  not  a  very  common  one,  and  is  more  prac- 
tised among  the  tribes  of  the  Viikon-moiith  and  to  the  southward. 
The  man  who  proposes  to  give  it  often  saves  up  his  property  for 
years,  and  retains  nothing,  being  reduced  to  poverty  by  the  festi- 
val. He  accumulates  deerskins,  beaver,  sealskins  and  furs,  beails, 
and  other  articles  of  value.  He  exerts  himself  to  the  utmost  in 
preparing  food  for  his  guests.  When  the  preparations  are  com- 
plete he  sends  to  all  the  natives  of  the  vicinity,  who  crowd  to  the 
feast.  It  begins  with  dancing  and  singing,  each  guest  doing  his 
utmost  to  excel  in  each  and  do  honor  to  the  occasion.  The  festi- 
val lasts  as  many  days  as  the  provisions  will  huKl  out.  On  the 
last  day  the  host,  dressed  in  a  new  suit,  welcomes  his  friends  in 
the  casine.  To  each  he  gives  presents  of  whatever  he  may  like 
best ;  when  all  the  store  of  gifts  is  exhausted  the  host  strips  him- 
self replacing  the  new  clothing  by  the  poorest  rags,  and  gi^-'  <  ih<' 
former  to  whoever  has  not  previously  receiveil  a  gift.  '  s  wife 
does  the  same.  Thf  guests  put  on  their  new  clothing  on  the 
sjwt  in  silence.  'Ihe  host  then  aildresses  ihcm,  saying  tha'  he 
has  nothing  .eft,  and  deiJieciating  his  own  generosity  as  much  as 
possible.  He  then  dismisses  the  assembly,  who  go  back  to  their 
homes.  No  return  is  asked  or  expected,  and  the  host  is  often 
reduced  to  extreme  destitution,  which  he  regards  as  a  slight 
matter  compared  with  the  reputation  which  the  festival  has  given 
him.  At  some  of  these  feasts  ten  guns,  two  hundred  beaver,  a 
hundred  sealskins,  fifty  deerskins,  five  hundred  sable,  two  hundred 
fathoms  of  strung  beads,  ten  wolf  or  wolverine  skins,  and  as  many 
suits  of  clothing  and  blankets,  have  been  given  away  by  one  man. 
Stepanoff  told  me  of  a  man  who  saved  for  fifteen  years,  until  he 
accumulated  such  a  store  of  valuables,  and  then  made  a  ftast  and 
gave  everything  away. 

The  fifth  kind  of  festival  is  also  of  rather  rare  occurrence.  I 
witnessed  but  one.  The  man  who  had  originated  the  (piarrel 
sent  a  messenger  some  seventy  miles  to  the  man  who  had  been 
injured  or  offended.  The  messenger  was  dressed  in  a  new  suit, 
with  a  red  shirt,  and  carried  a  wand  ornamented  with  feathers  in 
his  hand.  Intimation  of  the  intention  had  of  course  reached  the 
recipient  in  advance.  The  messenger  found  l.-m  at  his  work. 
Chanting  as  he  approached,  he  made  known  his  errand,  striking 
the  receiver  with   his  wand  ;  and  suddenly  seizing  a  kiii:"j,  he 


1^2 


THK   YUKON   TICRRITORY. 


1    i 

1    'lit 


li  I 


I    i, 

i 


I    I 


i 


j;iaspcil  him  by  the  iicck  and  brandished  it  above  his  heail.  The 
otiicr.  undcrstamiin}.;  the  intention,  made  no  resistance  ;  and  con- 
cUuHnj;  his  chant,  the  niessenj^er  intjiiireil  what  restitution  was 
desired.  The  other  told  what  he  wisheil  tor,  and  the  niessen<rcr 
informed  him  whi-rc  ami  when  it  wouUl  be  made.  The  heralil 
then  returned  to  him  who  sent  him,  and  his  errand  was  done. 
Several  weeks  iater  the  least  was  <;iven.  The  reijuired  restitu- 
tion and  much  nuire  was  presented  to  the  offended  party,  who,  as 
well  as  the  offeniler,  was  dres.sed  in  an  entirely  new  suit  of  clothes. 
After  the  ^ifts  had  been  accepted  the  two  stood  up  and  danced 
tOi;ether,  keeping  time  with  the  ilrums.  They  then  exchanged 
clothing,  as  a  sign  that  they  were  friends  again,  and  the  person 
who  received  the  presents  diviileil  tobacco  ami  sealskins  among 
the  spectators,  which  fmisheil  the  ceremony. 

The  si.xth  sort  of  festival  is  frequent.  Mvery  winter  several 
take  place.  In  December,  1867,  the  M.ihlemuts  resiiling  at  Una- 
lakli'k  invif-MJ  the  M.ihlemuts  of  Shaktolik  to  participate  in  a 
festival  at  the  former  i)lace.  The  guests  arrived  about  the 
miildle  of  the  month,  ami  were  (luartereil  in  the  tlitVerent  houses 
in  the  village.  On  the  opening  of  the  performances  all  gathered 
in  the  casine.  The  guests  were  merely  spectator.s.  The  princi- 
pal men  of  the  rnalaklik  village,  eight  in  number,  appeared  by 
the  subterranean  passage  and  formed  in  line  on  the  floor.  Six 
women,  the  best  dancers  in  the  place,  look  their  places  opposite. 
AUuianok  ami  one  or  two  old  men,  whose  age  ibrbaile  their  join- 
ing in  the  dance,  took  the  drums  and  led  the  chorus.  The  men 
were  stripped  to  the  waist.  They  wore  breeches  of  tame  rein- 
deer skin,  and  had  each  a  tail  of  wolf  or  wolverine  attached  to 
the  belt  behiml.  They  had  on  gloves  trimmeil  with  wolverine 
skin,  and  boots  ornamented  with  strips  of  fur  and  marten  tails. 
Arouml  the  head  each  had  a  fillet  of  deerskin  ornamented  with 
feathers,  •.vhich  came  down  on  the  shoulders  behind.  The  women 
were  provideil  with  long  shirts  maile  of  the  intestines  of  the 
seal,  cleaned,  split,  ami  sewed  together.  These  shirts  were  trans- 
lucent, embroidered  with  bits  of  colored  worsted,  and  orna- 
mented with  short  pendent  strings  of  beads.  Through  the  semi- 
transparent  tlress  the  motions  of  the  body  were  j)erceptible. 
Their  breeches  were  of  tlie  white  Siberian  reindeer,  embroidered, 
decorated   with  strips  of  wolfskin,   anil   nuule  to  fit   the   limbs 


THK   YUKON   TKRRITORY. 


»53 


lis  head.  The 
incc ;  and  con- 
rostitution  was 
the  nicsscpgcr 
J.  The  herald 
and  was  done. 
x|uired  reslitii- 
party,  who,  as 
suit  of  elothes. 
up  and  daneed 
lien  e.\ehan<;ed 
and  tlie  person 
,'alskins  among 

winter  several 
siding  at  Una- 
artieipate  in  a 
/ed    about    the 
liferent  houses 
es  all  Leathered 
The  {irinei- 
,  appeared  by 
the  floor.     Six 
laees  opposite, 
aile  their  join- 
us.     The  men 
of  tame  rein- 
le  attaehed  to 
kith  wolverine 
marten  tails, 
amented  with 
The  women 
stines    of  the 
s  were  trans- 
1,   and   orna- 
ugh  the  semi- 
perceptible, 
embroidered. 
It   the   limbs 


f: 


pcrfcetly.  The  upper  dress  eanic  a  little  below  the  knees. 
Their  hair  was  arranged  ami  braideil  on  eaeh  siile,  with  the 
greatest  care.  Strips  of  white  wolfskin  and  strings  of  beads 
were  incorporated  with  the  braids,  and  pendants  of  beails  and 
beail  necklaces  ornamented  the  shoulders.  Their  hanils  were  en- 
cased in  snow-white  gloves,  fitting  closely  and  made  with  great 
care  from  the  temler  skin  of  the  reindeer  fawn.  These  were 
trimmeil  arounil  the  wrist  with  a  fringe  of  wolfskin.  In  eaeh 
hand  they  held  long  eagle  tcathers,  to  the  edges  of  which  tufts 
of  swan's-down  were  attached.  The  opening  chant  was  slow  and 
incasureil.  The  motions  oi'  the  dancers  were  modest  and  pleas- 
ing ;  the  extreme  gracefulness  of  the  women,  especially,  would 
have  excited  admiration  anywhere.  They  kept  the  most  perfect 
time  with  the  chorus  aiul  ilrum  taps.  Hetween  the  .syllables  of 
the  former,  words  of  welcome  to  the  strangers  were  interpolated 
ill  such  a  way  as  not  to  interfere  with  the  rhythm.  The  slowly 
waving  teathcs  and  delicate  uiululations  of  the  ilancers  remlered 
the  scene  extremely  attractive. 

As  the  performance  went  on,  the  spectators  joineil  in  the 
chorus,  which  became  more  animated.  Other  villagers  entereil 
into  the  ilance,  and  all  joined  in  ilumb  show  to  imitate  the  opera- 
tions of  ilaily  life.  New  songs,  invented  for  the  occasion,  ile- 
scriplive  of  hunting  the  deer,  bear,  and  fox,  of  pursuing  the  seal 
in  kyaks,  of  travelling  in  the  oomiak.s,  of  tishing  ami  other  pur- 
suits, were  introduced  in  the  chorus.  The  excitement  increased, 
and  was  ,added  to  by  the  applause  of  the  spectators.  All  en- 
trretl  freely  into  the  enjoyment  of  the  hour.  Children  appeareil 
tnun  below,  dressed  in  new  ami  beautifully  decorated  clothing. 
With  the  gieatest  gravity,  and  keeping  time  in  all  their  motions 
with  the  song,  they  deposited  on  the  tloor  dishes  of  boileil  fish, 
iiuat,  oil,  and  reiiuleer  marrow;  berries  in  a  cream-like  mixture 
ol  snow,  oil,  and  fat  ;  and  other  delicacies.  This  done,  they 
sc.unpered  out,  to  return  again.  The  dance  came  to  a  close,  and 
the  least  began.  That  over,  all  joined  in  a  lively  chorus,  to- 
bacco was  distributed  to  the  spectators,  and  the  performance 
closLil  for  the  night.  TIk  next  evening  a  similar  exhibition  took 
place,  which  was  repeated  every  night  for  a  week.  The  best 
il.mcers  took  occasion  to  exhibit  their  proficiency  singly ;  new 
and  original  songs  and   symbolic  ])antomimes   were  introiluced 


i;    ! 


\ 


1.54 


THE   YUKON   TERRITORY. 


every  evening.  During  the  whole  of  the  festival  only  the  most 
necessary  labor  was  performed,  and  it  would  have  been  quite 
impossible  to  induce  anybody  to  do  any  outside  work.  When 
it  came  to  an  end  the  guests  departed,  to  reciprocate  another 
winter  at  Shakt(Mik.  In  this  way  the  hospitable  Innuit  vary  the 
monotony  of  their  existence,  and  by  constant  interchange  of 
hospitalities  produce  the  most  friendly  feelings  between  dilTer- 
cnt  tribes.  Those  about  the  Yukon-mouth  seldom  take  part 
in  these  festivities  on  Norton  Sound.  The  latter  embrace  the 
different  tribes  from  Pastolik  to  Kotzebue  Sound  and  Ik-ring 
Strait. 

The  dialects  of  those  to  the  southward  are  so  different  that  they 
would  have  difficulty  in  intercourse  with  the  former,  which  is 
probably  the  reason  of  their  absence  ;  but  among  themselves  they 
carry  on  an  equal  amount  of  such  festivities.  The  semi-re- 
ligious masked  dances  and  midnight  mysteries  of  the  ancient 
Aleutians  find  no  counterpart  among  the  Innuit  of  Norton 
Sound. 

It  is  impossible  to  doubt  that,  among  all  American  aborigines, 
much  in  their  mode  of  life,  customs,  and  ceremonials  is  of  a  local 
nature,  anil  due  to  extraneous  circumstances.  Much  is  also  due, 
unquestionably,  to  the  similarity  of  thought  and  habit  which  must 
obtain  among  human  beings  of  a  low  type,  and  who  gain  their 
living  by  similar  means.  Hence,  a  general  similarity  of  many 
customs  may  naturally  be  expected  between  both  Innuit  and  In- 
dians, as  well  as  far-distant  aborigines  of  different  parts  of  the 
world,  and  this  similarity  can  afford  no  basis  for  generalizations 
in  regard  to  their  origin. 

Popoff  and  myself  determined  to  join  in  giving  a  festival  of  the 
second  class,  which  has  not  yet  been  described.  Rlyunuk  was 
chosen  as  the  messenger.  He  was  dressed  in  a  new  suit  of  clothes, 
which  was  his  perquisite  ;  he  wore  a  fillet  of  wolfskin  around  his 
head  and  carried  a  wand  in  his  hand.  This  was  about  six  feet 
long,  and  curiously  ornamented  and  carved,  somewhat  resembling 
the  Roman  palms  carried  in  procession  by  high  dignitaries  of  the 
Catholic  Church  on  Palm-Sunday.  He  received  his  messages  and 
departed.  P()poff  had  designated  Alluianok  as  the  one  whom  he 
desired  to  honor.  I  chose  Ark-napyak,  another  chief;  and  Os- 
trofskoi  another,  called  Andre. 


■A 


THE   YUKON   TERRITORY. 


155 


The  messenger,  fust  finding  where  the  person  indicated  is,  runs 
at  the  top  of  his  speed.  On  approaching  him  he  shouts,  "Oh  !  oh  !" 
as  loudly  as  possible,  and  chants  a  lively  chorus.  At  the  same  time 
he  delivers  his  message,  waving  his  wand  about  the  head  of  the 
other,  and  tells  him  that  PopotV,  or  whoever  it  njay  be,  is  desirous 
of  giving  a  festival,  and  having  selected  him  as  a  suitable  person 
to  honor,  desires  to  know  what  would  be  acceptable  to  him  as  a 
present.  The  other  replies  that  he  will  accept  the  honor,  and 
mentions  whatever  he  may  want.  In  this  ease,  Alluianok  asked 
for  tobacco  and  a  new  shirt,  Andre  for  wolverine  skin,  and  Ark- 
napvak  for  a  glass  of  water,  meaning  licpior.  A  day  was  set  for 
the  festival ;  all  who  chose  to  come  were  welcome.  W'e  had  a  large 
kettle,  containing  some  ten  gallons  of  rice,  cracked  wheat,  and 
oil,  boiled  into  a  general  mush,  and  flavored  with  molasses ;  and 
another  full  of  tea  ICach  guest  was  served  with  the  former,  and 
received  with  the  latter  a  slice  of  bread  and  a  lump  of  sugar. 
The  presents  werj  then  given,  and  the  practice  is  to  give  as  much 
as  possible  over  and  above  what  was  asked  for.  lieing  without  the 
liquor  which  was  so  much  desired,  I  chose  to  understand  the  requer.t 
literally,  and  presented  Arknapyak  with  a  large  bowl  full  of  scarlet 
heads,  much  coveted  by  the  Innuit,  and  filled  up  with  water. 
Powder,  lead,  caps,  drill,  and  a  little  case  of  portable  tools  made  up 
his  present,  and  after  the  others  had  received  theirs,  I  tlistributed 
among  the  guests  small  i)ieces  of  black  tobacco,  careful  that  none 
should  be  overlooked.  If  the  festival  had  been  given  by  natives 
only,  dances  and  the  chorus  would  have  preceded  the  feast,  but 
the  casarmer  of  the  fort  was  unsuitable  for  dancing.  The  assem- 
bly then  dispersed,  and  we  were  notified  to  attend  at  the  next 
stage  of  the  proceeduigs,  in  the  casine  of  the  village. 

A  day  or  two  after,  the  messenger  came  to  us  to  know  what  we 
desired  in  return,  using  the  ceremonial  previously  described.  One 
of  the  points  which  give  zest  to  these  festivals  is  the  practice  of 
asking  for  the  thing  of  all  others  most  difficidt  to  obtain.  It  is  a 
point  of  honor  with  the  giver  to  proci're  it  at  any  price  or  risk. 
In  some  cases  couriers  are  sent  humlreds  of  miles,  and  the  festival 
is  prolonged  until  their  return,  in  order  that  the  honor  of  the  host 
may  be  untarnished.  I  asked  for  a  live  seal,  knowing  very  well 
that  the  seal  had  left  the  coast  at  least  three  weeks  f^efore,  and 
that  no  amount  of  trouble  would  obtain  one.     PopofT  asked  for 


156 


THE  YUKON   TERRITORY. 


I'    i 


J 
\ 


\: 


.i    ■H 


foxskins  and  beaver ;  Ostrofskoi,  for  a  tame  reindeer  parka,  and 
wolfskin  for  collars. 

The  next  day  we  repaired  to  the  casine  in  the  evening.  The 
custom  is  for  those  who  bring  presents  to  approach  by  the  under- 
ground passage.  We  sat  on  the  floor  around  the  aperture,  and 
Myunuk  appeared  and  distributed  tobacco  to  those  present,  a 
beaver-skin  to  Popoff,  and  a  pair  of  walrus  tusks  to  me.  The 
giver  stands  in  the  aperture  and  dances  and  sings  there  for  a  few 
moments,  the  old  men,  meanwhile,  keeping  time  on  the  drums. 
Alluianok  came  up  and  presented  Popoff  with  throe  fine  red 
foxes.  The  giver  always  depreciates  his  present,  and  says  there 
are  no  more  to  be  had,  after  which  he  stoops  down  and  pulls  out 
something  more,  repeating  the  remarks  until  his  supply  is  ex- 
hausted. Arknapy'ak  brought  me  a  fine  pair  of  winter  boots 
ornamented  with  wolverine  skin,  a  dish  of  doer  fit,  two  marten 
skins,  a  bundle  of  boot-solos  and  some  berries.  Andre  oftored 
fat,  berries,  a  fine  kamhiyka,  wolfskin  for  collars,  half  a  sealskin 
for  boot-soles,  meat,  reindeer  tongues,  sinew,  and  a  fine  pair  of 
tame  reindeer  breeches.  Plach,  after  giving  all  his  presents, 
howled  once  or  twice,  danced  in  the  aperture,  and  finally  jumped 
out  to  one  side.  The  old  men  kept  up  a  persevering  drumming 
and  chorus.  We  distributed  the  tobacco  and  fat  among  them 
and  returned  to  the  fort.  Arknapyak  said  that  his  men  had  gone 
to  the  edge  of  the  ice  after  seal,  and  he  could  not  yet  fulfil  all 
of  his  duty,  but  would  do  so  before  the  festival  v.\is  over.  It  was 
again  the  turn  of  the  Innuit,  and  hoping  to  find  me  unprepared, 
he  asked  for  a  plane,  which  of  all  things  is  most  difficult  to  obtain 
in  this  part  of  the  world.  I  was  fortunate  enough  to  find  one  in 
the  tool-box  which  I  bought  of  Popoft".  It  was  duly  presented  at 
the  ne.xt  meeting,  which  was  similar  to  the  one  already  described, 
and  in  return  I  asked  for  a  good  tame  reindeer  suit  for  my  ethno- 
logical collection.  The  closing  evening  of  the  festival  arrived, 
and  after  the  preliminary  dances  and  singing  wore  concluded, 
the  head  of  a  seal  appeared  in  the  opening  of  the  floor,  the  body 
followed,  and  it  began  to  move  about,  pulled  by  strings  in  the 
hands  of  bystanders  stationed  for  the  purpose.  It  was  dead,  but 
complete  and  frozen  in  a  natural  attitude.  As  it  was  jerked 
about  the  Innuit  imitated  the  cry  of  the  seal,  much  to  everybody's 
amusement.     Arknapyak  then  appeared  and  stated  that  owing  to 


THE  YUKON   TERRITORY. 


157 


2er  parka,  and 


evening 


The 

I  by  the  undcr- 

:  aperture,  and 

ose  present,  a 

s  to  me.     The 

there  for  a  few 

on  the  drums. 

three   fine  red 

and  says  there 

I  and  pulls  out 

supply  is   cx- 

f  winter  boots 

"at,  two  marten 

Andre  offered 

half  a  sealskin 

a  fine  pair  of 

1   his   presents, 

finally  jumped 

[ring  drumniiuL;' 

among   them 

men  had  gone 

ot  yet  fulfil  all 

over.     It  was 

ne  unprcparetl, 

icult  to  obtain 

to  find  one  in 

y  presented  at 

ady  describeil, 

for  my  ethno- 

stival  arrived 

re   concludoel, 

floor,  the  body 

strings  in  the 

was  dead,  but 

it  was  jerked 

to  everybody's 

that  owing  to 


' 


the  lateness  of  the  .season  he  was  unable  to  procure  a  more  lively 
seal  for  the  purpose,  and  hoped  that  this  one  would  prove  satis- 
factory. Me  added  that  it  would  not  bite.  His  explanation  was 
received  with  applause,  and  he  added  many  other  acceptable 
articles  to  his  present.  The  old  men  rose,  and  Alluianok  the 
senior  chief  then  declared  that  the  festival  had  been  properly 
carricil  out  and  every  one  satisfied.  He  thanked  us  for  joining 
with  them  in  such  a  cordial  manner,  and  proclaimeil  that  the 
feast  was  at  an  end.  It  was  the  first  time  on  Norton  Sound  that 
white  men  had  joined  with  the  Innuit  in  celebrating  these  games, 
although  Stepanoff  had  .several  times  done  so,  when  on  trading 
expeditions  among  the  more  southern  Innuit. 

While  collecting  on  the  beach  west  of  the  river  on  the  18th 
of  October,  I  met  a  native  who  said  that  he  had  come  up  in  my 
new  bidarr.i  from  the  Redoubt.  The  stormy  weather  hail  de- 
layed it.  The  next  day  it  arrived  at  the  fort,  in  charge  of  I'chuk 
K(')liak,  a  trustworthy  Mahlemut,  who  on  many  occasions  had 
been  extremely  useful  to  our  parties.  His  only  fault  was  a  pre- 
dilection for  liquor.  He  was  honest,  straightforward,  and  very 
intelligent.  He  had  received  the  name  of  Isaac  from  .some  of  the 
traders,  who  had  also  taught  him  to  write  his  name  legibly,  but 
the  Innuit  had  corrupted  Isaac  into  Ichuk. 

Ingechuk  and  Andrea  having  arrived  from  Ikti'galik,  I  endeav- 
ored to  engage  them  to  take  the  bidarni  up  to  that  place  while 
ilie  Unalakh'k  River  was  still  unfrozen.  They  agreed,  but  put  o(T 
starting  until  the  next  day.  When  the  morning  had  arrived  we 
provided  bread  and  likali  for  them,  when  I  discovered  that  the 
brave  Ingaliks  expected  me  to  hire  somebody  to  row  them  up  the 
river  !  After  expressing  my  opinion  very  freely  of  their  laziness 
ami  general  worthlessness,  I  hired  ihree  Malileinuts  to  take  their 
places.  That  ..i.iernoon  I  was  seized  with  violent  pain  in  my 
neck  and  back,  accompanied  by  fever,  probably  caused  by  camp- 
ing on  the  river.  On  examining  my  boxes  I  was  astounded  to 
tind  that  the  small  supply  of  medicine  had  been  left  at  the  Re- 
doubt. I  felt  that  the  case  admitted  of  no  delay.  Although  the 
Joth  of  October,  the  air  was  mild  and  pleasant.  Not  a  particle 
of  ice  was  to  be  seen  on  the  river  or  along  the  seashore.  I  went 
up  to  the  village,  and  through  Isaac's  mediation  obtained  two 
men.     Patting  a  little  tea,  sugar,  and  two  loaves  of  bread,  with 


"» 


158 


THE   YUKON   TKRRITORY. 


half  a  dozen  salt  salmon-trout,  into  the  thrcc-holcd  biddrka,  in 
half  an  hour  I  had  started  for  the  Redoubt,  a  journey  as  unex- 
pected as  it  was  sudden.  Another  day,  if  the  weather  continued 
fine,  would  bring  us  there.  We  camped  at  Fossil  Creek  near 
Topiinika,  but  I  passed  a  sleepless  and  painfid  night.  The  next 
morning  we  wore  otT  again  early  and  plied  our  paddles  vigor- 
ously, hoping  to  reach  Pallonoi  Point.  The  waves  rose  very 
high,  however,  showing  heavy  weather  to  the  westward,  and  the 
wind  began  to  freshen.  The  rollers  became  so  large  that  we  were 
obliged  to  put  on  our  kamlaykas  and  tie  them  round  the  holes. 
The  bidarka  was  frequently  buried  in  the  water,  and  as  she  was 
very  old  I  was  obliged  for  safety  to  put  in  at  Kegiktowruk.  My 
situation  may  be  imagined,  burning  with  fever  and  impatience  at 
the  delay.  There  was  no  help  for  it,  however.  Four  days  I  lay 
in  the  casine,  suffering  from  anxiety  quite  as  much  as  from  the 
pain,  which  however  grew  no  worse.  We  got  out  of  provisions 
the  second  day,  as  I  had  not  anticipated  such  delay.  I  cut  the 
last  loaf  into  three  parts  and  divided  equally  with  my  men.  There 
was  nothing  else  but  seal  meat  obtainable.  I  tried  the  heart  and 
liver,  which  were  not  objectionable,  but  the  flesh  impregnated 
with  the  oil  was  positively  revolting.  The  blubber,  when  per- 
fectly fresh,  has  a  taste  exactly  resembling  the  smell  of  the  old- 
fashioned  lamp  oil.  Certain  arctic  explorers  have  pronounced 
this,  as  well  as  the  raw  entrails  of  the  seal,  to  be  "delicious!" 
I  can  regard  this  statement  only  as  the  result  of  a  depraved  appe- 
tite goaded  by  hunger.  The  blubber  of  the  beluga  and  whale, 
and  even  the  flesh  of  the  walrus,  sea  lion,  and  fur  seal,  is  eatable. 
When  fresh  the  taste  is  but  moderately  disagreeable  ainl  is  easily 
conquered  by  hunger.  But  the  flesh  and  oil  of  the  leopard-seal 
are  always  extremely  repulsive,  and  cannot  to  the  civilized  palate, 
by  any  stretch  of  the  imagination,  be  considered  otherwise. 
Whale-blubber  is  a  luxury  compared   to  it. 

I  could  not  force  myself  to  do  more  than  taste  it,  and  the  result 
was  immediate  nausea.  Fortunately,  in  the  evening  I  obtained  a 
small  supply  of  venison  and  a  deer's  tongue.  The  latter  dried  or 
frozen  is  a  great  delicacy,  and  has  the  flavor  of  chestnuts.  This 
flavor  is  lost  in  great  part  by 'cooking.  In  any  shape  there  is  no 
other  kind  of  tongue  which  will  bear  comparison  with  it. 

Towards  night  of  the  24th   'he  waves  fell  somewhat.     About 


: 


THE   YUKON   TERRITORY. 


'59 


d  biddrka,  in 
rncy  as  uncx- 
ler  continued 
1  Creek  near 
t.     The  next 
addles  vigor- 
'cs   rose  very 
vard,  and  the 
that  we  were 
inid  the  holes. 
d  as  she  was 
:towruk.     My 
impatience  at 
311  r  days  I  lay 
:i  as  from  the    | 
of  provisions 
ly.     I  cut  the 
y  men.   There 
the  heart  and 
impregnated 
r,  when    per- 
il of  the  old- 
pronounced 
delicious  !" 
)ravcd  appe- 
and  whale, 
al,  is  eatable, 
ainl  is  easily 
leopard-seal 
ilized  palate, 
otherwise. 

,nd  the  result 
I  obtained  a 
Iter  dried  or 
;tnuts.  This 
there  is  no 
1  it. 
hat.     About 


midnight  I  stepped  out  to  look  at  the  weather:  snow-clouds  were 
driving  across  the  sky,  the  surf  roared,  and  billows  dashed  upon 
the  rocky  islets.  About  five  o'clock  in  the  morning  I  rose  and  took 
another  look.  The  wind  had  subsitled,  but  no  boats  would  leave 
tliat  cove  for  si.x  months.  The  weather  was  icy  cold.  As  far  as 
the  eye  could  reach  seaward  was  a  sheet  of  ice  !  Aided  by  the 
snow,  the  intense  cold  in  five  hours  had  covered  the  entire  coast 
of  the  Sound  with  ice.  It  was  not  clear,  smooth,  and  solid,  such 
as  makes  in  calm  weather,  but  a  white,  frothy,  rough  substance, 
looking  like  the  white  slag  from  an  iron-furnace.  Close  in  shore 
it  was  several  feet  thick,  but  soft  and  unsafe,  with  occasional 
pools  of  water.  The  Russians,  who  often  have  a  substantive  name 
for  conditions  of  things  which  we  describe  by  means  of  adjectives, 
cull  it  s/iiig(ih,  in  distinction  from  clear,  solid  ice,  which  is  lo/it. 

I  dismantled  the  bidarka,  raised  her  on  a  stage  out  of  reach  of 
the  dogs,  made  up  three  packs  of  about  fifty  pounds  each,  and 
about  ten  o'clock  started  with  my  men  for  the  Redoubt  on  foot. 
The  travelling  was  exceedingly  hard  ;  we  had  to  step  from  one 
tussock  to  another,  which  often  gave  way,  striking  the  toes  against 
the  frozen  ground.  I  had  only  one  light  parka  without  a  hood, 
and  the  wind  was  very  cold,  liy  constant  exercise  I  managed  to 
keep  warm,  and  about  nightfall  caught  sight  of  the  hut  on  the 
knoll  at  the  Major's  Cove.  I  told  the  men  we  would  camp  here, 
and  they  received  the  information  wi  .  exclamations  of  thankful- 
ness. The  house  was  a  wretched  one,  much  out  of  repair,  and  in 
consequence  smoky.  My  bread  was  exhausted  ;  we  had  fortunately 
one  drawing  of  tea,  but  no  sugar,  and  only  a  small  fragment  of 
frozen  deer  meat.  One  of  my  men  opened  his  pack  and  com- 
menced unrolling  a  small  biunlle.  First  a  piece  of  paper,  next  a  bit 
ot  sealskin,  and  so  on,  until  about  ten  wra[)pers  had  been  removed. 
To  my  surprise  it  was  the  bread  I  had  given  him  several  days  be- 
fore. I  praised  his  economy,  but  he  interrupted  nic,  saying,  "  Take 
it ;  you  want  it  more  than  I  do,"  and  insisted  upon  my  accepting 
it.  The  other,  who  was  almost  a  boy,  seeing  the  bruised  and 
battered  condition  of  my  feet,  brought  out  some  pieces  of  cotton 
drill,  which  he  asked  me  to  use  as  "  nips  "  and  to  return  to  him 
at  some  future  time.  These  instances  of  kind-heartedness  are 
worthy  of  being  remembered.  They  give  a  glimpse  of  character- 
istics we  never  found  among  the  Indians,  and  which  eminently 


rrwr 


1 60 


THE   YUKON   TERRITORY. 


% 


?l! 


distinguish  the  Innuit.  Several  similar  instances  were  related 
by  members  of  Major  Kennicott's  party.  Mahlcmuts  in  their 
employ,  during  a  scarcity  of  provisions,  denied  themselves  in 
order  that  others  might  not  suffer. 

The  next  day  we  boiled  our  tea-leaves  over  again,  and  made  the 
best  of  our  way  over  the  ice  along  shore.  The  mouth  of  the  Canal 
was  frozen,  as  I  had  hoped,  and  with  care  we  crossed  safely,  and 
reached  the  Redoubt  just  as  the  service  was  over  and  the  inhab- 
itants were  coming  out  of  church.  Stepanoff,  who  with  astonish- 
ment had  watched  us  crossing  the  new  ice,  received  mc  hospita- 
bly. I  obtained  the  necessary  medicines,  and,  by  heroic  doses  of 
calomel  and  quinine,  succeeded  in  quelling  the  disorder. 

Four  days  after,  though  quite  weak  and  still  far  from  well,  I 
started  on  my  return  with  a  Russian  Creole,  named  Goldscn,  a 
sled  with  six  dogs,  and  three  natives.  I  had  obtained  some  sugar 
from  Stepanoff,  to  make  up  my  loss,  and  a  good  parka,  with  other 
necessary  articles.  The  weather  was  about  twelve  below  zero, 
and  rather  windy.  We  kept  on  the  ice  beyond  the  Major's  Cove, 
but  as  it  was  untrustworthy  we  were  obliged  to  take  to  the  bank. 
Here  the  going  was  very  bad,  as  previously  mentioned.  There 
was  no  snow,  and  we  stumbled  over  the  frozen  hillocks  until  our 
feet  ached  again.  We  arrived  safely  at  Kcgiktowruk  in  the  even- 
ing. Here  we  took  on  the  tent  and  other  things  which  I  had 
been  obliged  to  leave  behind. 

The  next  day  the  travelling  was  even  worse.  In  many  places 
we  had  to  cut  our  way  through  low  but  heavy  willow  brush,  which 
grows  along  small  watercourses.  We  camped  in  a  ravine  near 
the  two  islands.  In  the  evening  the  wind  fairly  howled,  and  it 
began  to  snow.  The  air  was  full  of  fine  snow,  which  the  strong 
wind  drove  into  the  eyes.  Travelling  under  such  conditions  is 
almost  impossible  and  very  dangerous.  The  Russians  call  this 
poorga.  It  is  in  such  storms  that  travellers  los,^  their  way,  and 
are  frozen  to  death.  Clear  cold,  however  great,  can  always  be 
borne,  with  proper  clothing  and  e.xercise,  but  the  poorga,  penetrat- 
ing to  the  bone,  first  blinds,  then  chills,  and  finally  exhausts  the 
hapless  traveller,  who  no  sooner  falls  than  he  is  covered  by  the 
snowdrift. 

The  next  morning  was  more  pleasant.  We  passed  Golsova 
River  about  eleven.     In  the  middle  of  thp  afternoon  we  saw  a 


Ji 


: 


|ii     \ 


THE  YUKON   TERRITORY. 


161 


herd  of  deer  fcedinj;  among  the  willow  brush.  The  dogs  started 
off  on  a  full  gallop,  sleds  and  all,  and  it  was  with  the  greatest  dif- 
ficulty that  we  checked  them.  I  started  in  one  direction,  and 
(ioklsen  in  another.  A  doe  with  her  finvn  passed  near  me.  I 
fired,  and  she  sprang  into  the  air  ami  came  down  full  on  her 
horns.  A  few  struggles,  and  she  was  dead.  The  others,  alarmed 
by  the  shot,  were  off  at  full  speed.  On  examination  I  found  that 
one  of  the  buckshot  with  which  the  gun  was  loaded  had  struck 
her  on  the  leg.  Falling  on  her  horns,  she  had  come  down  with 
such  force  as  to  break  open  the  skull  and  pierce  the  brain.  This, 
and  not  the  shot,  had  killed  her.  On  skinning  her  we  found  the 
ucKlcr  full  of  milk,  which  we  saved  in  a  tin  cup.  It  was  thick 
and  rich,  like  cream.  The  winter  coat  of  the  reindeer  is  gray, 
with  long  while  hair  on  the  throat.  It  is  a  very  awkward- 
looking  animal  when  in  motion,  reminding  one  of  a  cotv.  The 
eye  is  large  and  black.  We  cached  the  meat  and  skin,  taking 
only  the  heart  and  liver.  We  hung  up  a  handkerchief  on  a  snow- 
shoe,  and  poured  powder  in  a  wide  circle  around  it  to  keep  off 
the  fo.xes.  Pushing  on,  we  crossed  Tolstoi  Point,  and  camped  in 
the  house  at  Topanika.  To  reach  it  we  were  obliged  to  unload 
the  sled,  and  carry  every  article,  as  well  as  the  dogs,  through  the 
water  around  two  points  of  rock.  The  ice  was  rotten,  and  there 
was  a  strip  of  open  water  ten  yards  wide  between  it  and  the 
shore.  That  night  wc  had  milk  in  our  tea,  the  only  time  during 
my  stay  in  Russian  America.  The  house  at  Topanika,  though 
well  built,  is  very  smoky,  so  much  so  that  in  good  weather  it 
is  better  to  camp  out  of  doors. 

The  next  day  we  started  for  Unalaklik  about  eight  o'clock. 
We  had  broken  all  the  bone  off  the  runners,  and  the  sled 
moved  slowly,  I  pushed  on  ahead,  and  reached  Unalaklik  about 
two  o'clock  ;  the  dogs  arrived  about  two  hours  afterward. 

The  annual  rumor  of  a  proposed  invasion  by  the  Shageluk  In- 
gallks  had  reached  Unalaklik  during  my  absence,  and  after  two 
days'  excitement  had  been  forgotten. 

November  3d,  Isaac's  brother  arrived  from  Kotzebue  Sound 
with  two  kegs  of  rum,  bought  from  the  traders.  The  whole 
village  was  in  an  uproar  very  soon,  and  the  Russians  barred  the 
doors  and  loaded  their  guns,  shaking  in  their  shoes  with  fear. 
Poor  Isaac  came 


up 
II 


:apon  ot  any 


i 


162 


THE  YUKON  TERRITORY. 


and  the  Russians  seized  him,  tied  him  with  ropes,  and  beat  him 
dreadfully  with  dog-whips.  I  remonstrated,  but  they  paid  no 
attention  to  it,  and  when  weary  of  abusing  him  they  turned  him 
out  of  the  fort,  half  naked,  and  blind  with  the  treatment  he  had 
received.  As  soon  as  it  became  known  in  the  village  the  women 
united  in  bewailing  the  misfortune,  and  the  wind  brought  their 
cries  distinctly  to  our  ears.  Isaac's  wife  came  up  to  the  window 
of  the  bidiirshik's  room  and  cried,  "  Wc  will  tell  the  Americans 
when  they  come  back,  and  they  will  not  forget  us,"  but  she  was 
only  answered  with  curses.  More  brutality  joined  to  greater 
cowardice  I  hope  never  to  witness. 

The  storm  blew  over  in  time,  though  the  hatred  which  all  the 
natives  bore  the  Russians  was  much  increased.  Isaac  was  very 
popular  among  the  Innuit,  and  had  never  injured  the  Russians 
in  any  way.  I  took  some  medicine  and  went  down  to  the  village 
next  day,  and  dressed  his  wounds  and  bruises,  but  the  Russians 
were  afraid  to  leave  the  fort  for  a  week. 

On  the  8th  of  November  an  old  woman  died  very  suddenly 
in  the  village.  The  warm  weather  in  October  had  occasioned 
much  sickness  everywhere  among  the  natives.  Pleurisy  and  bron- 
chitis were  very  prevalent ;  many  were  sick,  and  all  much  alarmed. 
liy  the  liberal  use  of  mustard  I  assisted  many  of  them,  and  my 
attempts  to  cure  them  met  with  the  utmost  gratitude  from  the 
poor  people.  The  weather  was  very  cold,  and  a  piercing  east 
wind  prevailed,  which  did  not  help  matters. 

Near  the  fort  is  a  small  village  of  Kaviaks  ;  their  chief,  named 
Kamokin,  had  been  of  much  assistance  to  Captain  Pim  and  other 
explorers  in  search  of  Franklin.  He  was  always  harping  on 
this  subject,  and  brought  it  forward  on  every  occasion.  A  more 
persevering  old  beggar  I  never  saw,  nor  were  any  of  the  others  so 
unreliable  or  so  mean.  A  fierce  bulldog  given  him  by  the  P^nglish 
was  a  perfect  nuisance  in  the  village.  One  of  his  workmen  was 
sick  with  pneumonia,  but  not  dangerously  ;  he  was  in  a  fair  way 
to  recover  when  the  old  woman  died.  Fearful  that  this  man 
would  die  in  the  house,  which  must  then  be  deserted,  Kamokin, 
with  the  greatest  barbarity,  and  deaf  to  our  remonstrances,  put 
him  out  of  doors  in  a  cotton  tent,  without  food,  blanket,  or  fire. 
Of  course,  in  two  days,  with  the  temperature  thirty  below 
zero  and  a  sharp  wind,  the  poor   fellow   died.     His   body  was 


;' 


5  i 


THE   YUKON   TERRITORY. 


'63 


<lrnggccl  a  short  distance,  wrapped  in  a  ,,icce  of  sealskin  m.       . 
wuh  one  or  two  logs,  and  all  h.s  little  pr ,,  "tv    i^cl    li  J  1  i 
scattered  about  on  the  ground.     U-ft  in  th  s  wa  '       ''""' 

attacked  it.  and  it  was  only  by  threa  e  nVk'^  l  ■  f  '""" 
^vo..Id  take  the  body  and  throw  t  imo' h  ""'.'"  '''''  ''' 
«n.,ke-ho,e.  that  we  Anally  i.:i::Ar:o'  "  .e::;;^^^'^ 

ll^c  cold  weather  continued,  and  we  expected  K  Xui     1 
dogs  every  day.     Meanwhile   I  had  a  nun  ber  '  f  1  " 

work  making  new  harness  as  th/n  1  .  '""*  '''^  ""^ 

need  a  doubL^  supp  y     tI' ,,  Inrn  """  T' '"'  "'^  ^'^""'' 

anO  bright  bu.to".       '  '"'  °""'"""=^  ""''  '''  A-"'-^' 


iM 


1  ! 


CHAPTER    V. 

Arrival  of  Kiirill.i  .-md  the  dops.  —  Departure  from  I'nalaklik.  —  Various  kinds  of 
sledges.  —  Arrival  at  Ikligalik.  —  Scries  of  cktentions.  —  Indian  avarice.  —  At 
Ulukuk  and  across  the  portage.  —  Comparative  merits  of  ditTennt  sledjjcs.  —  Wol- 
asatux.  —  Arrival  at  N'ulato.  —  Sham  hysterics. —  Fish-traps.  —  Kurilla's  return. — 
Journey  to  the  Kaiyuh  River.  —  llousekee|)ing.  —  Christm.i.^  and  .\'ew-Vear's. — 
Snaring  grouse.  —  Yukon  fish.  —  Continued  sickness.  —  Arrival  of  the  mail. — 
Start  for  tlie  Rcdoulit. —  IIow  tiie  Russians  travel  ri.  how  the  Americans  travel. 
—  Arrival  at  tlie  Reduuht.  —  Return  to  Iktigalik.  —  Iheak-down  and  repairs.  —  Dog- 
driving,  and  cam])  lite  in  the  Yukon  territory.  —  Snowshoes.  —  Arrival  at  Nulato. — 
Kxpeditions  among  the  Nulato  Hills.  —  Hostile  Koyukuns.  —  Reasons  for  their  hos- 
tility.—  Character  of  the  western  Tinneh.  —  Kndurance. —  I'revalent  diseases.— 
Snow-goggles.  —  Totems.  —  Dances  and  songs.  —  Arms.  —  ll.ihits  of  life.—  \d- 
dilional  notes  on  the  Ktitchin  tribes.  —  Making  shot.  —  Attack  on  'I'tkunka  .  ihe 
result.  —  Arrival  of  swallows  and  geese.  —  I5rcak-up  of  the  ice.  —  Narrow  esc.  — 
Non-arrival  of  Indians.  —  I'avlolT's  departure. 


,     I 


EARLY  in  the  forenoon  of  November  12th  I  was  called  out 
by  a  cry  that  dogs  were  coming.  On  rcacliing  the  river- 
bank  I  saw  the  tall  form  of  the  indefatigable  Kuri'lla  behind  a 
rapidly  advancing  sled.  He  had  hardly  reached  the  fort  when 
Pavlolf,  Paspi'lkoff,  Peetka,  and  Ivan  the  tyonc  came  in  sight 
with  two  other  sleds.  All  was  as  usual  at  Nulato,  and  there  was 
a  fair  prospect  of  abundance  of  fish  in  the  coming  winter.  We 
greeted  them  heartily,  and  were  soon  seated  around  the  steaming 
samovar.  They  were  eight  days  from  Nulato,  and  had  found  the 
ice  on  the  Yukon  in  good  condition,  though  there  were  still  open 
places  in  it.  The  Russians  were  bound  for  the  Redoubt,  and 
Ivan  had  come  to  Unalaklik  to  buy  oil. 

The  14th  was  stormy,  and  on  the  15th  I  arranged  to  start  for 
Ulukuk.  I  was  short  of  dogs,  as  Stepanoff  had  taken  all  the  dogs 
belonging  to  the  Telegraph  Company,  except  those  which  Kun'lla 
had  brought  from  Nulato.  I  was  able  to  secure  nine  from  the 
Unalaklik  village,  and  hired  three  Mahlemuts  to  assist  us  as  far  as 
Ulukuk  and  perhaps  to  Nulato.  I  obtained  two  Innuit  sleds, 
which  would  be  available  only  as  far  as  Ulukuk.     These  sleds  arc 


1 


THE  YUKON  TERRITORY. 


165 


admirably  suited  for  travcllinj;  over  the  ice,  but  are  too  heavy  to 
use  on  a  portaj;e.  They  are  made  of  spruce  wood,  with  the  run- 
ners shod  with  bone  cut  from  the  upper  edi^e  of  the  jawbone  of 
the  whale,  and  peg<;ed  on  with  birch  pegs.  'Ihey  arc  brouj^jht  from 
Ikring  Strait,  and  j^ood  ones  are  worth  ten  sables  a  pair.  The 
bled  is  furnished  with  a  flat  bottom  made  of  slats,  on   which  the 


Iniiuii  sled  of  Norton  Sound. 


was  called  out 


i 


load  is  laid,  and  with  a  low  horizontal  rail.  We  were  accustomed 
to  lash  a  pole  on  each  side,  projcctin;^  behind  the  sled  at  an  anj^Ie 
of  fifty  decrees  with  the  runner  These  poles,  strengthened  with 
a  cross-bar,  assisted  materially  in  pushing  and  guiding  the  sled 
and  in  lifting  it  up  and  down  steep  banks. 

We  had  brougli'  <lown  from  Fort  Yukon  to  Nuhito,  the  previous 
summer,  two  Hudson  Hay  sledges  and  a  set  of  harness.     They  arc 


Hudson  B.iy  sled,  loaded. 


: 


made  of  three  birch  boards  about  twelve  feet  long.  These  are  cut 
thin  at  one  end,  about  three  feet  of  which  is  bent  over,  lashed  and 
covered  with  rawhide  to  keep  it  in  place.  Inside  of  this  curve  the 
voyageur  carries  his  kettle.  T'.ic  boards  are  secured  to  each  other 
l)y  crosspicccs  well  lashed  on.  The  load  is  jilaccd  inside  of  a  large 
hag  as  long  as  the  sled,  and  made  of  tlresscd  mooseskin.  It  is  then 
covered  over  and  firmly  lashed  by  means  of  a  rawhide  line  and 
netting  attached  to  each  side  of  the  sled.  A  piece  of  mahout, 
known  as  the  tail-line,  passes  through  a  loop  in  the  head  of  the  sled 
and  is  tied  to  the  lashings  over  the  load,  binding  it  all  firmly  to- 
gether.  The  preceding  sketch  shows  the  appearance  of  the  loaded 


1 66 


THE   YUKON   TERRITORY. 


sled.  The  harness  is  furnished  with  a  padded  collar,  like  a  horse- 
collar,  but  rounded,  which  goes  over  the  neck  of  the  dog,  and  the 
traces  are  long.  The  dogs  are  harnessed  tandem,  and  three  good 
ones  make  a  team.  Tiie  traces  are  buckled  on  each  side  of  the 
dog  behind,  so  that  the  strain  all  comes  on  the  load  and  no  power 
is  wasted.  I  found  it  advantageous  to  lash  two  poles  to  the  load 
behind,  as  already  described,  as  it  is  very  hard  work  controlling 
the  motions  of  the  sled  by  means  of  the  tail-line  alone. 

The  Indian  sled  of  the  country  is  much  lighter.  It  is  made  of 
birch,  with  thin,  broad  runners,  which  bend  with  the  inequalities 
of  the  road.     The  accompanying  picture  will  give  a  better  idea 


m 


iSI 


Ing.ilik  sled  i>f  ilu'  \iikon. 

of  it  than  a  description.  There  are  no  nails  or  pins,  the  whole 
being  lashed  together  by  means  of  rawhide  thongs.  The  load-  is 
usually  covered  with  cotton  cloth,  and  firmly  kislied  to  the  sides 
and  rail  of  the  sled.  The  dogs  are  harnessed  two  and  two,  with 
a  leader,  to  a  single  line  in  front  of  the  sled.  The  traces  are  tied 
together,  antl  attached  by  a  short  cord  to  the  sled-line.  The  har- 
ness was  described  in  the  last  chapter. 

We  had  had  many  discussions  during  the  past  season,  in  regard 
to  the  respective  merits  of  the  different  kinds  of  sleds,  and  I  was 
very  glad  of  the  opportunity  of  thus  putting  them  to  a  practical 
test.  The  Hudson  Ikiy  sled  is  the  only  one  used  by  their  voy- 
ageurs  ;  while  the  Russians  use  a  sled  similar  to  the  Indian  one, 
but  broader  and  more  strongly  made. 

We  started  for  Ulukuk  about  noon  of  the  15th.  Our  loads 
were  unusually  heavy  and  the  teams  small.  On  each  of  the  Mud- 
son  Bay  sleds  I  placed  about  four  hundred  pounds,  and  gave  them 
three  good  dogs  apiece.  The  Indian  sled  took  about  the  .same 
load  with  four  dogs,  and  the  Innuit  one  had  about  seven  hundred 
with  five  dogs.     The  latter,  being  shod  with  bone,  will  carry  a 


i)llar.  like  a  horse- 
"  the  clog,  and  the 
n,  and  three  good 

eaeh  side  of  the 
oad  and  no  power 
poles  to  the  load 

work  controlling 
ine  alone. 
;r.     It  is  made  of 
h  the  inequalities 
•ive  a  better  idea 


r  pins,  the  whole 
gs.  The  load  is 
sli.ed  to  the  sides 
wo  and  two,  with 
le  traces  are  tied 
l-line.     The  har- 

I season,  in  regard 

sleds,  and   I  was 

:m  to  a  practical 

;cd  by  their  voy- 

the  Iiulian  one, 

;th.  Onr  loads 
[ach  of  the  Hud- 
[,  and  gave  them 
jabout  the  same 
It  seven  hundred 

[ne,  will  carry  a 


^ 


THE   YUKON    TLHRITORY.  167 

\-cry  heavy  load  ovc-  smooth  ice  with  ease.  I  took  one  of  the 
Hudson  Bay  sleds,  as  I  always  made  it  a  rule  to  take  as  heavy  a 
sled  as  any  man  in  the  brigade.     With  this  arrangeniv'nt  no  man 


I  Id 


)h 


)f  th. 


dit  of  his  load,  and 


.\cessive  \  _ 
V  Jett  without  an  excuse.  A  light  sled  should  alwa;  ;  lead,  and 
break  the  road.  This  was  KuriUa's  post ;  I  brought  up  the  r-^ar, 
to  jnevent  the  natives  from  neeiUessly  lagging  behind.  When 
sure  of  my  men  and  with  a  good  road,  I  always  took  the  lead.  It 
is  a  good  plan  for  the  leader  to  carry  the  blankets,  chynik,  and 
axes  ;  for  if  a  storm  shouKl  come  up,  anil  the  otners  should  drop 
behind,  they  cannot  camp  until  the  day's  work  is  finished,  and 
they  have  caught  up  their  lost  ground. 

We  found  the  going  moderately  good,  and  camped  a  short  dis- 
tance below  Ikti'galik  about  six  o'clock.  The  days  were  begin- 
ning to  be  short.  The  sun  rose  about  ten  o'clock,  and  by  three 
ill  the  afternoon  had  again  reached  the  horizon.  His  highest 
elevation  was  far  below  the  zenith. 

We  reached  Ikti'galik  early  the  next  day.  Here  we  camped, 
bought  dog-feed,  and  rearranged  the  loads,  substituting  an  In- 
dian sled  for  the  Iniuiit  one,  which  was  of  no  further  use,  as  we 
were  about  to  make  portaijes.  Matfay  had  promisetl  me  a  new 
sled  and  the  use  of  his  dogs,  for  which  I  had  paid  him  in  atlvance. 
N\)\v,  the  old  rutlian  refuseil  to  let  liis  dogs  go  at  all,  and  gave  us 
a  weak  and  almost  worthless  old  sled.  Ami'lka  and  others  had 
built  some  new  winter  houses  near  Nuk'koh,  and  had  deserted 
riukuk  entirely,  only  one  h..)use  there  being  still  inhabited.  All 
the  Ingaliks  were  gt)ing  to  the  Kaivuh  River  a  little  later  in  the 
season.  Here  Tekunka  had  announced  that  he  woukl  hokl  a  fes- 
tival. He  was  now  on  his  way  to  Unalaklik  to  purchase  oil.  We 
were  delayed  the  next  day,  having  to  patch  up  the  old  sled,  but 

t  off  about  ten  o'clock.     We  had  not  proceedetl  far  before  three 

tlic  knees  on  one  ude  bn^ke  After  making  the  best  repairs 
in  our  power  we  pushed  on,  and  about  noon  reacheil  the  new 
village. 

I  fere  we  found  a  large  number  of  Indians.  There  was  a  new 
sled  there,  and  the  owner  asked  for  it  a  can  (i  lb.)  of  powder,  ten 
balls,  and  ten  percussion-caps.  The  usual  cost  of  a  sled  is  twenty 
balls ;  yet  I  would  have  purchased  it,  even  at  the  outrageous 
price  he  named  ;  but  after  paying  him  he  stooped  down  and  be- 


(I 


1 68 


THE  YUKON   TERRITORY. 


m.  < 


ll 


gan  to  strip  off  the  lashings,  saying  that  the  remni  belonged  to 
anoti.er  man.  At  this  my  temper,  which  had  been  at  the  boihng- 
point  ever  since  I  left  Matfay,  gave  way,  and  I  expressed  my  de- 
cided opinion  of  him  as  thoroughly  as  my  vocabulary  permitted 
me.  Leaving  the  sled  and  reclaiming  the  price,  I  pushed  on,  de- 
termined not  to  submit  to  such  an  imposition.  About  a  mile 
beyond  the  village  the  old  sled  ga\  ^  out  entirely.  This  was  the 
last  drop.  I  said  nothing,  but  took  out  my  pipe  and  sat  down  to 
calm  my  nerves.  The  others  did  the  same,  and  finally  Kun'lla 
spoke  up  and  said  that  we  must  go  back  and  buy  the  sled  pre- 
viously spoken  of.  He  suggested  that  he  had  a  small  tin  which 
held  only  half  a  pound  of  powder,  and  if  that  were  presented  to 
the  man  he  might  not  detect  the  difference :  in  this  way  we 
might  get  even  with  him.  We  had  plenty  of  mahout  to  lash  the 
sled  again.  I  told  him  he  might  try,  and  he  went  off  and  soon 
returned  with  the  sled.  We  had  meanwhile  boiled  the  chynik. 
and  now  took  our  tea,  after  which  we  reloaded.  One  of  our 
dogs  had  taken  the  opportunity  to  gnaw  off  his  harness  and  dis- 
appear in  the  woods.  Meanwhile  it  had  become  almost  dark, 
and  the  men  were  grumbling,  and  wanted  to  go  back  and  spend 
the  night  at  the  village.  They  invented  stories  about  there  be- 
ing no  ice  in  the  Ulukuk  River,  and  went  grudgingly  to  their 
work  when  I  told  them  that  stopping  was  out  of  the  question, 
and  we  should  sleep  only  on  our  arrival  at  Ulukuk.  This  day's 
adventures  are  fair  specimens  of  the  ai  noyances  sometimes  ex- 
perienced in  travelling,  and  which  only  patience  and  energy  can 
overcome.  The  dogs  are  given  to  running  away  when  most 
wanted,  and  light  steel  collars,  and  chains  such  as  horses  are 
hitched  with,  would  be  a  very  valuable  addition  to  any  traveller's 
equipment. 

We  arrived  in  good  order,  but  some  time  after  dark,  and 
camped  in  one  of  the  winter  houses.  There  we  found  a  few 
Indians,  and  obtained  abundance  of  trout,  fresh  from  the  river, 
with  which  we  fed  ourselves  and  the  dogs,  reserving  the  lighter 
likali  for  the  road.  A  small  Indian  cur  occasioned  great  con- 
fusion during  the  night,  howling  and  fighting,  and  started  at 
last  for  the  woods,  with  several  of  our  dogs  in  pursuit.  I  had 
reckoned  that  old  Amdka  would  be  willing  to  lend  us  his  fine 
team,  but  he  refused;  —  such  is  life  among  the  Indians! 


THE   YUKON   TERRITORY. 


169 


ni  belonged  to 

at  the  boiling- 

)ressed   my  de- 

lary  permitted 

pushed  on,  de- 

About  a  mile 

This  was  the 

id  sat  down  to 

finally  Kun'lla 

^  the  sled  pre- 

mall  tin  which 

•e  presented  to 

1  this  way  we 
lout  to  lash  the 
It  off  and  soon 
cd  the  chynik. 
.  One  of  our 
arness  and  dis- 

2  almost  dark, 
:ick  and  spend 
bout  there  be- 

ingly  to  their 

the  question, 

This  day's 

sometimes  ex- 

d  energy  can 

when  most 

as  horses  are 

any  traveller's 

er  dark,  and 
found  a  few 
om  the  river, 
ng  the  lighter 
ed  great  con- 
nd  started  at 
irsuit.  I  had 
d  us  his  fine 
dians! 


The  next  day  was  occupied  in  repairing  damages,  reloading, 
and  recovering  our  runaway  dogs.  The  weather  was  disagree- 
ably windy,  with  snow. 

On  the  iglh  we  started  very  early.  A  few  miles  from  Ulukuk 
v,e  were  astonished  to  see  dogs  coming,  and  in  a  few  moments 
the  previously  mentioned  cur  appeared,  with  Amilka's  three  dogs 
in  hot  pursuit.  These  were  immediately  impounded  and  pressed 
into  the  service,  forming  an  exceedingly  acceptable  addition  to 
our  insufiicient  teams.  Even  the  cur  was  made  to  contribute,  by 
tying  her  to  the  foremost  sled  as  leader. 

In  crossing  one  of  the  gullies  by  which  the  tundra  is  inter- 
sected, the  new  sled  was  broken  beyond  repair.  The  Indians 
were  in  despair ;  but,  by  cutting  off  about  three  feet  of  the  other 
runner,  I  made  a  short  sled,  in  which  two  dogs  could  haul  our 
blankets  and  other  light  but  bulky  articles.  The  remainder  of 
the  load  and  team  was  distributed  among  the  other  sleds.  Ow- 
ing to  this  delay  we  were  obliged  to  camp  near  the  Vesolia 
Sopka.  These  repeated  stoppages  were  the  more  annoying  as 
our  dog-feed  was  short. 

The  next  day  we  made  better  time,  and  camped  near  Beaver 
Lake.  Many  deer  tracks  were  visible,  and  there  were  evidently 
herds  in  the  vicinity. 

The  following  morning  we  passed  Beaver  Lake  and  One-Tree 
Camp.  The  wind  and  snow  were  blowing  just  as  they  were  the 
year  before,  when  I  was  travelling  with  IMike.  I  little  thought 
at  that  time  that  my  next  journey  on  that  road  would  be  taken 
alone.  Facing  the  keen  wind,  I  got  my  nose  and  cheeks  some- 
what frostbitten,  but  soon  restored  them  by  rubbing  with  snow. 
It  has  been  said  that  freezing  is  unaccompanied  by  pain,  but  my 
experience  does  not  confirm  it.  The  feeling  is  as  if  a  thousand 
red-hot  needles  were  being  driven  into  the  flesh.  Of  course, 
after  it  is  frozen  beneath  the  skin,  there  is  no  further  pain.  Im- 
mediate application  of  snow  will  relieve  it,  and  the  usual  elTects 
are  slight.  The  skin  peels  off  and  leaves  a  l)rown  stain  resem- 
bling sunburn,  and  quite  as  ephemeral.  Fire  and  warmth  should 
be  avoided,  as  they  produce  an  intense  burning  pain  attended 
with  inflammation.  The  best  plan  in  cold  weather  is  to  face  the 
wind  boldly;  after  a  while  the  skin  will  become  inured  to  it. 
Arriving  at  Perivalli,  we  camped,  making  our  supper  of  ukali 
and  tea. 


WFW 


;  i 


170 


THE   YUKON   TERRITORY. 


^i 


%\ 


I    i 


f      ! 


The  next  morning  we  started  with  the  twilight.  The  valley 
through  which  we  had  been  passing  is  of  an  hour-glass  shape. 
The  narrowest  part  is  near  a  round,  abrupt  hill,  called  by  the 
Russians  the  Ass's  Head.  It  widens  toward  Ivan's  barrabora 
and  Kaltag.  We  camped  not  far  from  the  latter  place.  For  the 
last  three  days  we  had  been  on  snowshoes,  and  the  road  was  far 
from  good. 

In  the  following  morning  early  we  reached  the  Yukon,  and 
crossed  to  the  village  on  the  left  bank.  Here  I  bou<iht  some  dojr- 
feed  and  a  couple  of  rabbits.  There  were  many  fresh  marten  and 
fo.x  skins  on  the  caches,  and  most  of  the  men  were  away  trapping. 
At  this  season  the  fur  is  the  best ;  toward  spring  it  becomes  faded 
by  the  sunlight.  The  next  day  we  continued  on  our  way,  reach- 
ing Wolasiiti'x'  barrabora  in  the  afternoon.  Dog-feed  was  very 
scarce,  and  I  was  obliged  to  give  them  only  half  a  fish  apiece, 
instead  of  a  whole  one,  which  is  the  usual  ration.  I  found  my- 
self very  tired,  having  worked  with  a  Hudson  Bay  sled  all  day, 
and  with  a  very  heavy  load.  I  came  to  a  conclusion  about  the 
sleds,  which  I  have  not  yet  seen  any  reason  to  change. 

The  virtues  of  the  Hudson  Bay  style  are,  that  it  will  carry  very 
heavy  loads  without  breaking  ;  that  it  will  make  fair  time  on  level, 
hard  snow  ;  that  the  method  of  harnessing  is  good  ;  and  with 
first-class  dogs  it  will  do  good  service.  Its  faults  are,  that  it  will 
not  carry  as  large  a  load  of  light  baggage,  dog-feed,  &c.,  as  the 
Russian  style  ;  that  it  is  much  harder  to  guide  ;  that  it  is  ex- 
tremely hard  work  to  take  it  up  hill  ;  that  on  a  side-hill  it  keeps 
sliding  down,  unless  a  level  road  is  beaten  for  it  ;  finally,  that  it  is 
almost  immovable  in  soft  snow,  a  large  pile  of  snow  always  form- 
ing under  the  head  of  the  sled. 

For  the  Russian  style  it  may  be  said,  that,  while  more  liable  to 
fracture,  it  is  much  lighter;  it  will  carry  an  equally  heavy  load, 
with  the  same  dogs,  as  the  other  style,  and  the  load  is  above  the 
surface,  and  not  so  liable  to  injury  from  water  or  snow  ;  it  rides 
much  more  easily  on  a  hillside  and  in  soft  snow,  and  the  driver 
can  help  the  dogs  much  more  eftectually.  The  Hudson  Bay  style 
is  the  best  for  carrying  such  loads  as  oil,  fresh  meat,  flour,  and 
hardware  ;  and  the  other  for  all  lighter  loads.  The  Hudson  Bay 
harness  is  decidedly  the  best,  but  not  suitable  for  a  large  team, 
which  would  infallibly  tangle  at  every  declivity.     The  Innuit  sled 


'1 


THE  YUKON   TERRITORY. 


171 


t.  The  valley 
Lir-glass  shape. 
,  called  by  the 
ill's  barrabora 
lace.  For  the 
e  road  was  far 

le  Yukon,  and 
ight  some  dog- 
:sh  marten  and 
away  trapping, 
becomes  faded 
)ur  way,  reach- 
-feed  was  very 
"  a  fish  apiece, 
.  I  <"oiind  my- 
y  sled  all  day, 
sion  about  the 
ige. 

will  carry  very 
r  time  on  level, 
)od  ;  and  with 
ire,  that  it  will 
ed,  &c.,  as  the 
that  it  is  e.x- 
le-hill  it  keeps 
iially,  that  it  is 
always  form- 
more  liable  to 
ly  heavy  load, 
d  is  above  the 
now  ;  it  rides 
nd  the  driver 
ilson  Bay  stylo 
eat,  flour,  and 
Hudson  Bay 
large  team, 
e  Innuit  sled 


is  ^alperio^  to  both  on  the  ice,  and  far  inferior  everywhere  else. 
The  Hudson  l^ay  dogs  are  swifter  and  better  trained,  but  not  so 
enduring  or  tough  as  the  dogs  of  the  coast. 

Wolasatu.x,  poor  man,  was  in  great  tribulation.  His  eldest  son, 
a  bright-eyed,  intelligent  boy  of  twelve,  was  evidently  tlying. 
The  child  was  wasted  to  a  skeleton  ;  his  cheeks  burned  with  fever; 
his  stomach  alone  protruded.  The  old  man  and  his  wife  were 
hoth  laid  up  with  pneumonia,  and  his  breast  was  covered  with 
scars,  where  he  had  applied  the  actual  cautery.  I  left  as  much 
bread  as  I  could  spare,  and  some  pieces  of  backfat  for  the  sick 
boy,  who  brought  out  from  its  hiding-place  the  skin  of  a  lemming, 
which  he  had  prepared  for  me  the  previous  summer.  I  made  the 
old  man  a  liberal  present,  for  he  was  a  very  generous  and  kind- 
hearted  old  fellow. 

About  noon  the  following  day  we  reached  Nuhito.  Only  three 
Russians  were  there.  The  house  in  which  I  proposed  to  winter 
was  unfit  for  occupancy,  being  without  windows.  It  had  been 
repaired  according  to  my  orders,  and  I  occupied  a  corner  in  the 
hidarshik's  house  until  my  own  should  be  ready.  Several  of  my 
dogs  had  been  taken  to  feed  during  the  past  summer  by  Indians, 
who  had  failed  to  return  them  in  the  fall.  I  .sent  a  man  to  Koyi'i- 
kuk,  where  a  great  festival  was  being  held,  to  procure  the  missing 
animals.  Fish  was  very  scarce,  the  traps  catching  very  little,  as 
the  water  continued  high  in  the  river.  The  next  day  two  dogs 
arrived,  but  a  third  had  been  killed  in  a  rage  by  the  Inilian  who 
had  it  in  charge,  as  he  had  hoped  to  keep  it  permanently.  The 
dogs  and  sleds  were  prepared  for  another  journey  to  Ulukuk,  to 
hring  up  the  remaining  goods.  On  the  2.Sth  of  November  the 
brigade  started,  in  charge  of  Kurilla.  Johnny  acc()mpan_)  >ng  him, 
with  two  Indians  and  the  IMahlcmuts  Tiic  Russians  got  after 
my  alcohol  for  collecting,  and  I  was  oblij^cd  to  poison  it.  I  set  to 
v.nrk  making  windows,  nul  laying  my  plans  for  putting  down  a 
tlsh-trap  on  my  own  account.  The  idea  of  being  dependent  on 
the  Russians  for  fish  was  repugnant  to  me,  and  I  knew  very  well 
that  they  were  often  witiiout  fish  for  their  own  use. 

Several  of  the  Indians  at  the  fort  had  been  attacked  by  a  kind 
of  fit,  and  one  of  these  occurred  in  my  presence.  The  Russians 
consulted  me  as  to  some  means  of  cure.  The  p-atient  fell  in  a 
sort  of  convulsion,  struggling  violently,  appearing  unconscious, 


ffn 


¥' 


';; 


if' 


iiii 


S  ! 


172 


THE  YUKON   TERRITORY. 


tearing  the  clothing,  and  breaking  everything  within  reach. 
There  were  no  symptoms  of  any  disease,  and  the  fits  were  epi- 
demic, seizing  one  after  another  at  short  intervals.  The  cases 
resembled  the  descriptions  of  those  people  who  were  supposed  in 
ancient  times  to  be  bewitched,  and  also  some  of  those  appear- 
ances which  have  accompanied  cases  of  semi-religious  mania  in 
Europe  in  modern  times.  Suspecting  the  cause  of  the  symptoms, 
I  recommended  the  application  of  a  birch  twig,  well  laid  on:  the 
result  exceeded  my  anticipations.  The  patients  arose  in  a  rage, 
and  the  epidemic  was  effectually  checked.  The  reason  for  such 
behavior  was  inexplicable,  and  is  one  of  the  mysteries  peculiar  to 
the  Indian  mind.  It  is  probable  that  in  the  course  of  time  these 
fits,  at  first  wilful,  became  in  a  measure  involuntary. 

Having  finished  the  windows,  I  began  to  put  the  house  in 
order,  and  it  soon  assumed  a  habitable  appearance.  My  fever, 
which  I  had  hoped  was  thoroughly  conquered,  returin^J,  and  I 
felt  anything  but  well. 

On  the  4th  of  December,  Pavloff  and  his  companions  returned 
from  the  Redoubt.  They  brought  discouraging  reports  from 
Kurilla,  whom  they  represented  as  without  dog-feed.  They 
strongly  opposed  my  putting  down  an  independent  fish-trap,  say- 
ing that  it  would  cost  me  a  great  deal,  that  I  should  catch  no 
fish,  and  that  they  could  furnish  me  with  all  I  required  ;  but  I  de- 
termined to  persevere  in  my  own  plan.  These  fish-traps  are  the 
sole  dependence  of  the  Russians  and  Yukon  Indians  in  winter, 
for  a  regular  supply  of  food.  They  are  made  in  the  following  man- 
ner. Green  spruce  trees,  straight-grained  and  without  knots,  are 
selected.  It  is  often  a  matter  of  great  difiiculty  to  find  them. 
When  obtained  they  are  repeatedly  split  by  means  of  wedges, 
until  the  wood  is  reduced  to  strips  a  quarter  of  an  inch  in  diam- 
eter and  twelve  feet  long.  The  tough  green  wood  does  not  break. 
These  strips  are  for  the  basket  and  funnel.  Thicker  ones  are 
used  for  making  the  fences  or  mats.  The  former  are  carefully 
trimmed  until  cylindrical.  The  latter  arc  tied  together  with 
osiers  until  a  sheet  of  network  is  formed,  with  the  strips  crossing 
each  other  at  right  angles,  and  the  meshes  about  two  inches 
long  and  one  high.  These  sheets  are  eight  feet  high  and  ten 
long.  The  basket  is  twelve  feet  long,  cylindrical,  tapering  nearly 
to  a  point  at  one  end,  and  open  at  the  other.     The  aperture  in  the 


^     'S 


THE   YUKON    TERRITORY. 


^3 


within  reach, 
e  fits  were  epi- 
als.  The  cases 
ere  supposed  in 
f  those  appear- 
[rious  mania  in 
■  the  symptoms, 
2ll  laid  on :  the 
arose  in  a  rage, 
reason  for  such 
ries  peculiar  to 
sc  of  time  these 

y- 

it  the  house  in 
II cc.  My  fever, 
returiiv^J,  and  1 

inions  returned 

5   reports   from 

3g-fced.      They 

t  fish-trap,  say- 

hould  catch  no 

lired  ;  but  I  dc- 

h-traps  are  the 

ans  in  winter, 

bllowing  man- 

lout  knots,  arc 

to  find  them. 

ans  of  wedges, 

inch  in  diani- 

oes  not  break. 

icker  ones  arc 

are  carefully 

together  with 

strips  crossing 

)ut  two  inches 

high  and  ten 

apering  nearly 

aperture  in  the 


point  is  about  eight  inches  in  diameter,  and  is  closed  by  a  small 
cover.  The  cylinder  is  about  two  feet  in  diameter.  A  large 
funnel  of  similar  network  is  made.  The  mouth  of  it  is  eight  feet 
square,  and  it  tapers  to  a  very  small  aperture,  just  large  enough 
to  admit  a  fish.  The  point  is  inserted  into  the  open  end  of  the 
cylinder,  and  the  whole  is  tied  together.  The  network  of  both  is 
fastened  with  strong  twine  of  hemp,  or  the  inner  bark  of  the  wil- 
low. Holes  are  cut  into  the  ice,  uprights  driven  into  the  mud  at 
the  bottom  of  the  river,  and  the  mats  are  tied  strongly  to  them. 
In  this  way  a  T-shaped  fence  is  made,  extending  at  right  angles 
to  the  current  out  into  the  stream,  to  a  point  where  it  is  about  eight 
feet  deep.  The  funnels,  with  baskets  attached,  are  fastened  to  the 
cars  of  the  cross-stroke  of  the  T,  one  basket  pointing  up  stream 
and  the  other  down.  They  are  so  arranged  that  they  can  be 
lifted  to  the  surface  and  out  of  the  water.  The  ice  above  them 
is  broken  away  by  means  of  four-sided  chisels  made  for  the  pur- 
pose. As  they  are  raised  every  other  day  it  does  not  form  to  any 
great  thickness.  The  baskets  are  kept  in  place  by  sharp  poles 
attached  to  the  point  and  to  the  sides  of  the  funnel,  and  pushed 
down  into  the  mud.  Fish  going  up  or  down  stream  follow  the 
shore  until  they  come  to  the  fence,  which  guides  them  to  the 
mouth  of  the  funnel,  when  they  enter  the  basket,  from  which  they 
cannot  escape.  The  water  passes  freely  through  the  network,  and 
keeps  them  alive  for  any  length  of  time.  As  the  water  falls,  the 
fence  is  extended,  and  baskets  moved  out  or  new  ones  put  down. 
It  is  a  work  of  no  little  labor  to  cut  through  the  ice  and  put  down 
the  trap,  or  sa/><^r,  as  the  Russians  call  it.  This  trap  was  original 
with  the  Yukon  Indians,  but  is  found  only  below  Koyukuk.  The 
upper  Indians  and  the  Hudson  Bay  people  know  nothing  of  it. 
Yagorsha  informed  me  that  the  Yakuts  had  a  similar  custom. 
Without  it,  in  winter,  starvation  would  reign  on  the  Lower  Yukon. 
Similar  traps  are  used  in  summer  and  raised  by  means  of  boats. 
The  slender  network,  exceedingly  frail  when  dry,  is  very  tough 
when  wet.  The  fish  are  shaken  out  by  opening  the  cover  at  the 
point  of  the  basket.  I  had  great  difficulty  in  getting  suitable 
wood,  and  had  to  send  six  or  eight  miles  from  Nulatofor  it.  I  cut 
the  willows  on  the  island  myself,  to  be  ready  for  work  when  Ku- 
ri'Ua  returned. 
Mctrikoff,  the  bidarshik  of  Nulato  before  Pavloff,  died  suddenly. 


rm 


'74 


THE   YUKOxN    TERRITORY. 


m 


)^ 


-.v.- 


I  i; 


I     I 


leavinf;  two  bright,  intelligent  children.  The  Russians  had  re- 
tained thcni  on  sufferance  until  the  Governor  could  be  heard  from 
in  regard  to  them.  Maksutoff's  reply  was,  that  the  Company 
would  do  nothing  for  them,  and  they  had  better  be  given  to  the 
Indians!  Their  mother  was  dead,  and  the  recommendation  of 
the  hard-hearted  Russian  was  carried  into  effect.  Ingechuk,  who 
was  a  relation  of  the  mother,  came  and  took  them  to  Uliikuk.  It 
was  hard  to  see  two  such  boys  deprived  of  all  prospect  of  educa 
tion  and  condemned  to  a  worthless  life  with  the  Indians,  but  ii 
was  a  fair  specimen  of  the  character  of  the  Rus;-ians  in  Northwest 
America. 

The  weather  had  set  in  very  cold,  and  averaged  thirty  below 
zero  at  noon.  The  wood  for  the  trap,  which  had  been  obtained 
with  so  much  trouble,  proved  unsatisfactory,  and  there  was  no 
prospect  of  obtaining  more  until  Kurilla  returned.  Meanwhile, 
though  sick  and  miserable,  I  had  not  neglected  the  collections, 
and  had  already  several  hundred  birdskins  of  the  species  which 
are  winter  residents. 

Late  in  the  afternoon  of  December  15th,  Kun'lla  made  hh  ap- 
pearance with  the  brigade.  They  had  done  everything  I  desired, 
had  brought  all  the  goods  except  a  bag  of  oil  and  some  ukali, 
and  the  train  contained  four  Rlahlemut  dogs,  beside  thirteen  of 
mine.  The  Innuit  had  come  forward  and  offered  dugs  as  soon  as 
they  heard  I  was  in  need  of  them.  I  could  not  have  trusted  any 
Russian  in  the  territory  to  do  the  work  as  well  and  faithfully  as 
Kun'lla  had  done  it. 

The  Russians  were  out  of  fish.  I  had  ukali,  but  none  to  spare. 
It  was  evident  that  nineteen  dogs  could  not  be  fed  at  Nulato  for 
any  length  of  time,  and  I  determined  to  go  to  the  Kaiyuh  River, 
where  Tekunka  was  giving  a  festival,  and  distribute  all  but  one 
team  among  the  Indians,  to  be  fed  and  used  until  I  needed  them 
again. 

Notwithstanding  they  had  nothing  to  eat,  —  as  the  day  was  a 
Prasnik,  or  holiday,  when  they  were  not  obliged  to  work,  —  the 
Russians  preferred  sitting  in  the  house  and  grumbling,  to  the 
trouble  of  going  to  the  fish-trap. 

On  the  17th  of  December  the  Nowikakat  tyone  and  seven  men 
arrived  with  a  small  hand-sled  loaded  with  furs,  which  they  sold  to 
Pavloff.     When  they  were  at  a  little  distance,  though  their  num- 


Ii  li'H! 


THE   YUKON   TERRITORY. 


175 


ssians  had  re- 
bc  heard  from 
the  Company 
le  given  to  the 
imcndation  of 
[ngechuk,  who 

0  Ulukuk.     It 
pect  of  educa 
Indians,  but  ii 

1  in  Northwest 

.1  thirty  below 
been  obtained 
there  was  no 
.  Meanwhile, 
he  collections, 
species  which 

made  hij  ap- 

ling  I  desired, 

d  some  likali, 

le  thirteen  of 

gs  as  soon  as 

c  trusted  any 

faithfully  as 

lone  to  spare, 
at  Nulato  for 
iiyuh  River, 
all  but  one 
needed  them 

le  day  was  a 

work,  —  the 

ibling,  to  the 

id  seven  men 
they  sold  to 
their  num- 


ber could  be  counted,  the  Russians  were  seized  with  one  of  their 
cowardly  fits,  barred  the  gates,  loaded  the  howitzer,  and  prepared 
for  an  attack  from  eight  men  and  a  boy  !  On  their  stating  their 
errand,  the  commotion  subsided  and  the  gates  were  opened. 

I  made  the  tyone  a  present  of  some  tobacco  and  ammuni- 
tion, in  consideration  of  his  services  during  the  previous  spring. 
With  Indian  assurance,  he  immediately  (lemaiuled  a  seine,  gun, 
blanket,  and  a  large  supply  of  ammunition,  which  of  course  were 
produced  forthwith. 

The  next  day  I  harnessed  all  the  dogs  into  one  sled  and  started 
for  Wolasatu.x',  riding  several  miles  for  the  first  time  during  my 
stay  in  Russian  America.  We  found  all  sick  on  our  arrival,  and 
very  short  of  provisions.  The  following  morning  we  jiroceeded 
up  a  small  river  and  across  the  country,  until  we  arrived  at  Te- 
kunka's  barrabora  on  the  Kaiyuh  River.  Here  we  found  the 
festival  in  full  blast  and  the  place  crowded  with  Indians,  dancing 
and  singing  all  night,  so  that  we  got  very  little  rest. 

The  country  is  rolling,  sparsely  wooded,  and  full  of  small  lakes 
and  rivers,  which  contain  many  fish,  especially  in  summer. 

The  next  morning,  as  the  Indians  were  still  engaged  in  their 
festivities  and  would  not  attend  to  anything  else,  I  put  on  my 
snowshoes  and  travelled  about  fifteen  miles  eastward,  to  the 
ridge  of  the  Kaiyuh  Mountains.  These  are  low  hills,  trending  in 
a  northeast  and  southwest  direction,  and  at  that  season  covered 
with  snow.  Beyond  them  the  country  was  rolling,  with  oc- 
casional hills,  and  sparingly  wooded.  The  rivers,  if  any,  were 
hidden  by  the  snow.  I  returned,  and  reached  the  house  in  time 
to  make  a  good  camp  outside,  as  I  felt  very  tired  and  unwilling 
to  be  deprived  of  sleep  for  another  night.  I  made  my  supper  on 
raw,  frozen  whitefish,  scraped  up  like  frozen  pudding.  This  dish 
is  not  unpalatable,  as  the  freezing  has  all  the  effect  of  cooking. 
Several  of  the  Indians  made  me  presents  of  mink  and  marten 
skins. 

The  next  day  was  devoted  to  trading.  I  secured  a  full  sled- 
load  of  frozen  fish  and  ukali,  keeping  six  dogs,  and  hiring  In- 
dians to  take  and  feed  the  rest.  I  also  purchased  a  quantity  of 
frozen  berries,  and  some  mats  to  cover  the  floor  of  the  house  at 
Nulato. 

Tekunka  promised  faithfully  to  make  one  of  my  party  down 


II 


176 


THE   YUKON   TERRITORY. 


^1 


\ 


.  . 

•  ! 

'  i    : 

'.   : 

i 

1 

.) 

1 

■ 

1 

n-" 


the  river  in  the  sprnig,  and  I  gave  him  a  gun  as  part  payment 
to  clinch  the  bargain. 

The  next  day  all  the  Indians  dispersed  to  their  homes.  We 
left  Tekunka,  passing  up  the  river  to  a  place  known  as  Jearny's 
barrabora.  Jearny  (meaning  fat)  was  the  name  of  a  very  stout, 
greasy  Ingalik,  who  had  a  house  and  fish-trap,  where  I  hoped  to 
obtain  some   more   fish.     The  afternoon  was  moonlight,  the  sun 


Jearny's  barrabora. 

setting  very  early,  and  after  stopping  to  buy  fish  vvc  thought  best 
to  push  on.  The  fence  of  the  fish-trap  at  this  place  extended 
clear  across  the  river,  and  was  made  of  bundles  of  willow  brush 
tied  together  and  placed  side  by  side.  There  was  only  one 
Indian  house  and  two  caches.  The  building  over  the  entrance 
to  the  house  was  large,  square,  strongly  built  of  heavy  logs,  and 
pierced  for  musketry. 

We  camped  five  miles  beyond.  I  had  determined  to  return  by 
another  route,  which  would  bring  us  on  the  Yukon  nearly  op- 
posite Nulato.  Here  I  met  with  a  serious  misfortune,  losing  a 
fine  meerschaum,  which  had  been  my  constant  companion  and 
solace.  I  was  now  reduced  to  a  single  brierwood,  in  very  poor 
condition.  The  next  morning,  starting  with  the  first  light,  we 
followed  a  very  poor,   roundabout  trail   toward   the  Yukon.     I 


THE   YUKON   TERRITORY. 


177 


s  part  payment 

ir  homes.  We 
3wn  as  Jcarny's 
)f  a  very  stout, 
lere  I  hoped  to 
mliffht,  the  sun 


>ft- 


|e  thought  best 

place  extended 

|f  willow  brush 

was  only  one 

the  entrance 

cavy  logs,  and 

Id  to  return  by 

Ion  nearly  op- 

Itune,  losing  a 

|m  pan  ion  and 

in  very  poor 

irst  light,  we 

ie  Yukon.     I 


I 


went  on  ahead  of  the  dogs,  and  soon  outstripped  them.  About 
dark  I  reached  Nuh'ito,  pretty  thoroughly  tired  out,  having  made 
nearly  forty  miles  on  snowshoes.  The  train  arrived  about  two 
hours  after. 

On  leaving  Nukito  I  had  placed  all  our  slender  store  of  crock- 
ery on  a  high  shelf,  that  it  might  be  out  of  any  ordinary  danger. 
What  was  my  regret,  on  going  into  the  house,  to  find  that  the 
shelf  had  given  way,  and  the  whole  was  in  fragments  on  the  floor ! 
No  more  could  be  obtained  for  love  or  money,  and  we  were  re- 
duced to  eating  off  of  tin.  Luckily,  I  had  purchased  of  Ketchum 
a  Hudson  Hay  cup,  saucer,  and  plate,  made  of  iron  lined  with  por- 
celain. These  were  uninjured,  and  afterward  did  good  service. 
Another  plate  was  repaired  by  boring  small  holes  with  an  awl, 
and  sewing  the  pieces  together  with  strong  wa.ved  thread. 

My  efforts  were  soon  directed  to  the  work  of  supplying  our 
household  with  various  necessary  utensils.  Lamps,  small  cups, 
and  other  articles  were  manufactured  out  of  old  tin  cans.  Mos- 
quito-netting furnished  the  material  for  a  sieve,  and  with  I'aspil- 
koff's  assistance  I  made  a  candle-mould.  Seal-oil  lamps  arc  very 
unsatisfactory,  requiring  constant  picking,  and  making  a  great 
deal  of  smoke.  Cotton  twine  furnished  wicks,  and  I  was  soon 
able  to  make  very  passable  candles  from  my  extra  supplies  of 
reindeer  fat. 

The  flour  which  I  obtained  from  the  Russians  was  a  mixture  of 
rye  and  wheat  meal,  usually  denominated  groats.  The  husks  were 
so  coarse  and  abundant  that  sifting  became  necessary.  The  Rus- 
sians raised  their  bread  by  means  of  leaven,  but  as  this  made  sour 
bread  I  adopted  another  plan,  which  is  here  described  for  the 
benefit  of  future  travellers.  A  gallon  of  warm  water  was  niixeil 
with  a  handful  of  coarse  salt,  flour  enough  to  make  a  batter,  and 
was  placed  in  a  wooden  vessel  on  the  warm  peeehka  over  night. 
Larly  in  the  morning  flour  enough  was  stirred  in  to  make  it  of 
the  proper  consistency.  At  breakfast-time  the  fire  was  made,  and 
alter  breakfast,  when  the  coals  were  removed  from  the  oven,  the 
bread  was  kneaded,  made  into  loaves,  and  put  in.  An  hour  usu- 
ally served  to  bake  it,  making  a  batch  of  perfectly  light,  sweet 
bread,  without  yeast  or  leaven.  White  flour  may  be  treated  in 
the  same  way,  but  takes  longer  to  rise.  I  usually  made  up  about 
forty  pounds  of  flour  at  a  time,  and  the  bread  would  last  us  about 
12 


.78 


THE   YUKON   TERRITORY. 


1       1 


i. 


a  week.  I  soon  found,  by  calculation,  that  wc  must  be  very  carefi:! 
with  our  flour,  and  was  obliged  to  weigh  out  the  daily  allowance, — 
a  pound  each,  not  a  very  large  piece  of  .such  damp  brown  bread. 
I  allowed  each  three  pounds  of  sugar  per  month,  and  a  jiound  of 
tea  for  all  hands.  In  this  way  I  managed  to  make  our  supjily 
last,  although  wc  were  often  on  short  commons.  I-'ish,  rabbits, 
and  grouse  were  unusually  scarce,  and  often  entirely  deficient. 
No  deer  visit  Nuhito  during  the  winter. 

I  had  saved  a  small  piece  of  frozen  deer  meat  for  Christmas, 
which  found  us  without  other  supplies  in  the  storehouse.  Christ- 
mas morning  I  bought  two  white  grouse,  and  sent  Johnny  out  to 
shoot  another,  which  he  fortunately  succeeded  in  doing.  With 
these,  some  berry  pies,  and  some  sweetened  short-cake,  I  made 


Yukon  grouse-snare. 

out  a  pretty  fair  dinner,  and  invited  Fivloff  pnd  Yagor  to  eat  it 
with  me,  each  bringing  his  own  cup.  pl;ite,  and  spoon,  as  my 
stock  did  not  set  the  table.  It  was  a  kv.iely  Christmas  compared 
with  the  last,  or  with  any  I  had  ever  '-pent  before.  It  was  impos- 
sible to  help  thinking  of  the  dear  ones  at  home,  of  the  Christmas- 
trees  and  festivities  they  were  enjoying,  and  equally  impossible  to 
doubt  that  they  were  thinking  of  us  as  we  were  of  them,  though 
many  thousand  miles  away, 

New-Year's  day  brought  cold  weather,  forty-eight  below  zero. 
My  hunters  were  unsuccessful,  and  our  dinner  was  reduced  to  fish 
soup,  cranberry  pie,  bread,  and  tea.  My  family  consisted  of 
Johnny,  two  Indian  boys,  and  Kuri'lla.  I  sent  the  boys  out  set- 
ting snares  for  grouse  and  rabbits.  These  were  occasionally 
successful,  and  eked  out  our  slender  bill  of  fare.     The  snares  are 


THE    YUKON    TERRITORY. 


J  79 


very  carefi:) 

llowaiicc,  — 
rowii  hnrul. 

a   JKHllul  of 

our  supply 
ish,  rabl)its, 
ly  deficient. 

•  Christmas, 
sc.  Clirist- 
niny  out  to 
)ing.  With 
ike,  I  made 


I 


or  to  eat  it 
)on,  as  my 
s  compared 
was  impos- 
Christmas- 
ipossible  to 
cm, though 

)clow  zero, 
ccd  to  fish 
nsisted  of 
ys  out  sct- 
iccasionally 
snares  are 


[|  made  of  twisted  deer  sinew  in  a  running  loop.  This  is  attached 
to  a  pole,  balanced,  as  in  the  preceding  sketch,  between  two 
branches,  and  caught  over  a  h'<ri/.o;ital  pole  by  means  of  a  small 
pin  tied  to  the  snare,  lirush  is  piled  on  each  side  ot  the  tracks 
which  the  grou.sc  run  in,  so  that  they  have  to  pass  through  the 
opening  where  the  snare  is  set.  A  touch  loosens  the  pin,  and  the 
iicavy  end  of  the  pole  falls,  hanging  the  partridge  or  rabbit  in  the 
air.  Some  seasons  hundreds  are  caught  in  this  way.  These 
grou.se  feed  entirely  on  the  willow  buds,  and  the  crop  will  some- 
times contain  a  pint.  The  flesh  is  hard,  drw  and  tasteless  ;  a 
long  experience  in  eating  it  has  left  an  unfavorable  imjiression. 
Our  fish-trap  was  in  process  of  manufacture,  but  illness  prevented 
me  fronj  assisting.  I  seldom  rose  from  my  bed,  except  to  weigh 
out  the  daily  allowance  of  bread,  and  I  felt  my  strength  failing 
fast.  In  spite  of  this,  I  could  hardly  force  myself  to  cat,  and  was 
tormented  with  constant  headache. 

Cold  days  alternated  with  warm  weather,  and  even  occasional 
rain.  Pavloff  said  he  had  not  known  such  a  season  for  sixteen 
years.     Such  mild  weather  in  January  was  unprecedented. 

January  i6th  the  Indians  and  some  Russians,  whom  I  had  hired 
to  help,  commenced  putting  nvn  my  fish-trap.  Kurilla  came 
home  with  an  ugly  wound  in  thv-  thigh,  from  falling  from  the  sled 
upon  an  ice-chisel.  I  dressed  his  wound,  but  this  disablement 
was  a  serious  misfortune.  AW  the  Kaiyuh  Indians,  starved  out 
by  the  unwonted  scarcity  of  fish,  had  gone  to  IHukuk,  where 
there  is  always  abundance,  to  stay  until  March.  Weeks  passed 
by,  and  not  an  Indian  came  near  the  fort. 

The  Russians  were  totally  without  fish,  returning  from  the 
cxamina^^ion  of  fifteen  baskets  with  three  poor  whitefish.  They 
were  living  on  tea  and  bread.  Their  dogs  were  nearly  starving. 
Ivan  started  up  the  river  on  his  annual  trip  to  Nowik;ikat,  and 
hoped  to  find  dog-feed  on  the  road. 

Kun'Ua's  wound  healed  rapidly,  and  to  my  great  thankfulness 
he  was  able  to  ride  on  the  sled  and  examine  the  fish-trap,  which 
had  caught  six  whitefish,  —  a  good  omen.  The  first  week  or  two, 
before  the  resin  is  washed  out  of  the  wood,  the  trap  rarely  catches 
anything.  On  the  24th  of  January  there  were  twelve  fish  in  the 
trap.  From  that  time  forward  we  obtained  from  ten  to  thirty 
fish  every  two  days,  which  drove  the  wolf  from  the  door,  and 


i8o 


THE   YUKON    TERKITOKY. 


»!■ 


m 


enabled  me  to  save  my  ukali  by  Iccdiiij;  the  doj^s  partly  on  fresh 
fish.  The  Russian  trap  siill  coiUiniu-d  almost  empty,  and  if  I 
had  not  perseveieLJ  in  n>y  plan  of  piittinj^  down  an  independent 
trap,  1  should  have  been  left  witliout  fresh  provisions  and  lost  my 
doj;s  by  starvation. 

The  first  fish  which  are  caught  in  early  winter  on  the  Yukon, 
are  the  "  A'.v// "  (/.i'/,i  ni(Uiiln!(i)  of  the  Hudson  l?ay  men.  These 
are  known  in  Lake  luie  as  the  "  eel  pout,"  and  grow  in  the  north- 
ern rivers  to  a  very  large  size.  !  have  seen  them  four  feet  long 
ami  weighing  sixty  pouiul.s.  The  liver  is  very  large  and  full  of  a 
rich  sweet  oil,  which  we  found  viMy  useful  in  cooking.  The  livers 
themselvi's  are  good  eating,  but  very  rich.  The  llesh  is  hard  and 
tasteless,  and  is  usually  given  to  the  dogs.  They  present  an  ana- 
tomical i>eculiarity  in  having  from  one  to  four  distinct  gall  blad- 
ders. The  spawn,  which  occupies  a  large  part  of  the  abdominal 
cavity,  makes  an  excellent  soup.  The  next  most  common  kiiul  of 
fish  is  a  red  sucker,  which  grows  also  to  a  larg\;  size.  The  lu\ids 
make  a  good  soup,  but  the  rt-st  of  the  body  is  so  full  of  bones  as  to 
be  umiitable.  The  pike  (/■.".v.'.r  I'stoi)  is  very  common  in  the  lakes 
and  sm  dl  rivers,  but  rare  in  the  Yukon.  A  salmon-trout  is  rarely 
caught,  and  a  belated  salmon  occasionally  finds  its  way  into  the  traj) 
as  late  as  Januarx .  There  are  six  kinds  of  whitefish,  some  large 
and  others  small.  The  sea  whitefish,  or  Moiskoi  siux^i  of  the  Rus- 
sians, is  considered  tlie  best.  TiuMe  is  also  found  in  spring  a  fish 
reseml)ling  the  whitefisli,  but  dark-colored,  and  with  a  very  long 
dorsal  fin,  fiom  whiih  it  gels  the  Indian  name  of  "  blanket-fish."  In 
July  the  salmon  begin  to  asci-nd  the  river.  There  are  five  kinds. 
Thri't'  of  them  are  good  eating,  but  the  others  are  only  fit  for  dogs. 
After  August  tlu'y  art-  bruised  and  in  bad  condition,  being  cast 
in  layers  a  foot  deep  on  llu'  banks  of  (he  small  rivers.  I  have 
seen  hundreds  of  thousands  of  deail  sidmon  cast  up  in  this  way  by 
the  stream.  Of  eourst>,  in  this  condition  they  are  only  fit  for 
dog-feed,  though  the  Indians  will  eat  them  if  other  Ibod  be  sca'"ce. 
Most  of  these  fish,  except  the  salmon,  are  common  to  the  rivers  of 
tlu>  1  ludson  Hay  territory. 

On  the  ,^c)tii  of  Jair.iary,  I'avlolf  returned.  He  had  not  gone  far, 
for  want  of  dog-feed.  His  trade  consisted  of  a  biaek  bearskin  and 
one  lynx  ;  the  previous  year  he  had  brought  l)ack  .sonn:  seven 
hundred  sables. 


rUH   YUKON    TKRRITORY. 


iSl 


arlly  on  fresh 
uply,  unci  if  I 
1  indcpciulcnt 
s  and  lost  my 

n  the  Ynkon, 

men.  These 
V  in  the  north- 
four  feet  lonj; 

and  full  of  a 
-;.  The  livers 
sh  is  hard  and 
resent  an  ana- 
inet  j;all  blad- 
Ihc  abdominal 
nnnon  kind  of 
L'.     The  heads 

of  hones  as  to 
in  in  llie  lakes 
-trout  is  rarely 
lyinto  the  trap 
sh,  some  large 
i^'-j  of  the  Rus- 

\  sprinj;  a  fish 
|h  a  very  lonj;- 
.nd<et-fish."  In 
lire  five  kinds, 

ily  fit  fordo{;s. 

m,  hi'inj;  cast 

livi-rs.     I  have 

lin  this  way  by 
only   fit   for 

l)od  be  sea'ce. 

)  the  rivers  ol 

|l  not  t;()ne  far. 

l)i-arskin  and 

some  seven 


I\ly  eollection  had  thriven  pretty  well,  in  spite  of  siekness.  I 
had  a  ke{j;  of  small  animals  ami  lish,  two  boxes  of  birdskins,  and 
other  li};ht  specimens. 

Still,  1  was  fearful  lest  my  siekness  should  increase  so  as  lo  jne- 
veiit  my  eollectin<;  in  the  spriuj;'.  I  saw  that  the  Russians  and 
Indians  considered  me  as  half  dead  already,  and  1  resolved  to 
overcome  it  by  force  of  will,  if  other  means  faileil.  I  lookeil  in 
the  };lass  one  day,  and  saw  such  a  cadaverous  rtlleetiori  there  that 
1  turned  it  to  the  wall.  I  had  alreaily  made  prc-parations  for  my 
journey  to  the  sea-eoast,  and  the  birch  was  seasoninj;  trom  which 
I  intended  to  have  a  louj;  sled  made,  expressly  to  bring  the  bidarni 
over  the  portage  without  taking  it  apart. 

On  the  y\  of  b'ebruary  there  was  a  commotion  in  the  fort. 
Dog-trains  were  approaching  in  the  distance.  A  riunor  spread 
that  Stepanoff  was  coming,  and  it  was  aumsing  to  watch  the  un- 
accustomed energy  with  which  tite  Russia'- >  hasteni'd  to  clean 
out  the  yard,  removing  the  accumulated  dirt  of  monllis,  and 
sweeping  the  path  clean  from  the  gateway  (K)wn  to  the  ice.  It 
was  not  Step.inolf,  however,  but  a  Russian  and  two  Creoles, 
with  two  of  Step.inorr's  line  teams  from  the  Redoubt.  On  ar- 
riving, they  proved  to  be  KiimarolV,  Lukeen,  and  Al<')shka  ;  they 
brought  a  bag  of  oil  lor  I'/ivloff,  a  two-gallon  keg  of  molasses, 
and  a  larger  keg  of  salted  geese, — a  present  from  Stepanoff 
tor  me.  1  knew  at  once  tliat  ll'.ey  had  not  come  so  fir  nu-rely 
to  bring  lln'se  things.  I  asked  if  any  news  had  arrived  from 
Sitka,  and  reci-iveil  only  an  v'vasivi-  '  pW.  Afte-r  a  liltU-  I  ealleil 
Lukeen,  who  was  a  jolly  little  ' 'reole.  into  my  house,  and  stinni- 
lated  him  until  he  told  nn-,  witii  many  inj  unci  ions  of  seenn-y, 
that  the  oiriciai  news  had  arrived,  \i,i  Nuslu'rg.ik  and  the  Kiisko- 
(|uini,  of  the  sale  of  the;  territory  to  the  I'nited  States,  that  the 
Kussian  Ame-riean  Company  was  wound  uj  ,  anil  all  the  Russians 
would  return  to  Sitka  or  the  /\moor  River  by  the  vessels  in  the 
spiing.  This  ...■•.  good  news,  and  1  lost  no  time  in  hoisting  the 
stars  and  stripes  on  our  llagstal'l' in  front  of  the  foi!.  The  news 
was  soon  made  public,  and  all  rt'ceived  it  with  joy.  Old  men  wlio 
had  been  many  years  in  the  country,  detained  by  trilling  debts  to 
the  Com|)any,  which  llu-y  had  no  m  ;ans  of  paying,  were  e.vtrav- 
agant  in  the  expression  of  their  delight  in  the  hope,  so  long 
<lel"erred,  of  seeing  Russia  once  more.      I'he  nali\e  women,  who 


l82 


THE   YUKON   TERRITORY. 


i 


:|i: 


Ml! 
Mil 


It  II 


i  i 


could  not  accompany  their  husbands  if  the  latter  chose  to  leave 
the  country,  were  in  tears  at  the  prospect  of  parting;  while  oth- 
ers, whose  husbands  had  treated  them  with  brutality,  did  not 
conceal  their  pleasure  at  the  hope  of  getting  rid  of  them. 

Kil.-iaroff  decided  to  try  his  luck  in  trading  at  Koyiikuk,  and 
beyond ;  on  his  return,  Pavlofif  was  to  go  with  him  to  the  Redoubt 
for  orders.  I  decided  to  accompany  them,  thinking,  if  I  did 
break  down  on  the  road,  I  should  be  within  reach  of  assistance 
from  them,  and  I  had  many  misgivings  as  to  my  own  strength. 

Paspi'lkoff  at  once  set  about  making  my  new  sled,  and  we  began 
to  prepare  sukaree  for  the  road.  By  dint  of  extreme  argument  I 
succeeded  in  getting  Peetka  to  accompany  me  to  the  Redoubt. 
I  proposed  to  take  Kun'lla,  and  leave  Johnny  and  the  rest  to  take 
care  of  the  house. 

Kamaroff  and  Lukeen  returned  with  a  few  furs  on  the  13th, 
and  everything  was  prepared  for  an  early  start  the  ne.xt  day. 
Our  loads  consisted  principally  of  the  collections.  I  took  a  Hud- 
son Bay  sled,  and  the  long  sled  for  the  boat,  with  eight  dogs.  On 
the  14th  we  set  out.  I  found  myself  too  weak  to  walk,  and  was 
obliged  to  ride  nearly  all  day  on  the  sled.  We  made  a  very  short 
day's  work,  as  the  Russians  stopped  to  get  dog-feed  from  the 
fish-traps,  and  camped  at  Wolasatu.x'  barrabora,  where  they  rum- 
maged all  the  caches  for  ukali,  the  Indians  being  at  Ulukuk. 
The  next  day  we  camped  at  Kaltag.  The  necessity  for  work  and 
the  determination  to  do  it  were  conquering  my  weakness.  I  felt 
better  than  for  months  previously. 

The  next  day  we  reached  the  hill  at  Beaver  Lake.  This  was 
an  excellent  day's  work,  and  I  so  remarked  to  Kamarofif.  "  Yes, 
Gospodin  Doctor,"  he  replied,  with  an  amusing  air  of  superiority, 
"  this  is  the  way  the  Russians  travel."  I  made  no  answer,  but  did 
not  forget  the  remark. 

The  next  day  we  took  tea  at  noon  near  Ivan's  barrabora.  The 
Russian  sleds  were  light,  and  they  had  full  teams  of  fine  dogs. 
With  our  heavy  sleds  we  were  soon  left  behind.  I  forced  myself  to 
walk  on  snowshoes  behind  the  sled,  and  relieved  the  dogs  as  much 
as  possible.  We  passed  Poplar  Creek,  and  came  to  the  Vesolia 
S6pka  about  dusk.  The  moon  was  shining,  although  there  were 
dark  clouds  coming  up,  and  we  pushed  on  as  fast  as  our  tired  dogs 
would  go.     Stopping  a  moment  to  rest,  I  improved  the  ;  poortu 


';l!v^ 


THE   YUKON   TERRITORY. 


183 


•  chose  to  leave 
ng ;  while  oth- 
jtality,  did  not 
I  of  them. 
Koyiikuk,  and 
to  the  Redoubt 
nking,  if  I  did 
h  of  assistance 
wn  strength. 
1,  and  we  began 
me  argument  I 
>  the  Redoubt, 
the  rest  to  take 

rs  on  the  13th, 

the  ne.xt  day. 

I  took  a  Hud- 

;ight  dogs.    On 

)  walk,  and  was 

ide  a  very  short 

-feed  from   the 

here  they  rum- 

ng  at  Uliikuk. 

:y  for  work  and 

akness.     I  felt 

ike.     This  was 

narolT.     "  Yes, 

of  superiority, 

answer,  but  did 

irrabora.  The 
s  of  fine  dogs. 

reed  myself  to 
dogs  as  much 
to  the  Vesolia 
igli  there  were 

our  tired  dog: 
1  the  ;  poortii 


z 


nity  to  sketch  the  scene,  of  which  the  frontispiece  gives  a  good 
idea.  The  crust  was  covered  with  about  three  inches  of  soit  dry 
snow,  and  the  Hudson  Bay  sled  pulled  very  hard.  Constant  exer- 
cise of  the  lungs  and  whip  were  necessary  to  keep  the  dogs  up  to 
their  work.  On  we  trudged,  following  the  track,  lifting  the  sleds 
up  and  down  gullies,  pushing  through  occasional  drifts,  and  shout- 
ing encouragement  and  admonition  to  the  dogs,  calling  each  by 
his  name. 

,  We  did  not  turn  off  from  the  tundra  at  Uliikuk,  but  kept  on, 
until  I  noticed  that  there  were  no  new  tracks,  and  called  to  Ku- 
n'lla,  inquiring  where  the  Russians  were.  Me  replied  that  he  did 
I  "  know  ;  perhaps  they  had  camped  at  Ulukuk  ;  but  as  that  road 
s\:\::  uch  a  bad  one  he  had  kept  on  the  Indian  trail  across  the 
tUiidra  direct  to  Ikti'galik.  I  approved  of  his  determination,  but 
saw  that  we  must  reach  the  latter  place  before  we  could  camp,  as 
the  trees  along  the  edge  of  the  tundra  were  small  and  sparse,  the 
wind  was  rising,  snow  beginning  to  fall,  and  poorga  impended. 
At  last  we  reached  the  river,  and  collected  all  our  energies,  as  the 
blast,  carrying  snow  and  almost  blinding  us,  was  increasing  in 
severity.  In  half  an  hour  we  passed  a  fish-trap,  and  soon  after, 
the  welcome  sight  of  the  tall  caches  against  the  sky  met  our  eyes. 
We  carried  the  sleds  up  the  bank  with  a  will  and  a  shout,  which 
brought  the  Ir.dians  like  marmots  from  their  burrows.  An  In- 
dian who  \m'\  been  with  us  during  the  early  part  of  the  day  came 
out  and  irjuir;  1  where  the  Russians  were.  Kuri'ila  replied  that 
wc  did  10  i.i'.ow,  probably  at  Ulukuk.  The  air  rang  with  their 
shouts  oi  d  i'-  L-n,  at  the  idea  that  a  sick  man,  with  heavy  loads 
and  feeble  tea.  s  'lould  have  outstripped  the  fine  dogs  and  empty 
trains  of  the  L.ussians.  The  poor  dogs  were  unharnessed,  and 
immediately  crrlcd  themselves  up  to  sleep,  refusing  to  eat,  from 
latigue.  It  \>  as  with  a  pardonable  feeling  of  pride  that  I  took 
my  place  in  the  house  by  the  fire,  and  discussed  the  day's  work 
over  a  cheerful  cup  of  tea.  By  the  winding  road  which  we  were 
obliged  10  take,  we  had  made  not  less  than  fifty  miles,  unquestion- 
ably :;'■'  iongest  day's  travel  with  loaded  sleds  which  had  been 
made  111  .■  ;:  pari  of  the  territory  within  the  memory  of  the  old- 
est inhab'tunt. 

The  next  morning,  after  a  long  night's  rest,  we  arose  and  fed 
the  dogs.     The  teams  were  loaded  and  harnessed  up,  and  I  spent 


ii!' 


184 


THE   YUKON   TERRITORY. 


P 


a  half-hour  purchasing  deer  meat  and  likali  for  my  dogs  on  my 
return.  We  then  started  down  the  river,  and  after  a  mile  or  two 
stopped  to  obtain  some  water.  Just  as  we  were  about  to  push  on, 
the  Russians,  who  had  been  travelling  since  daybreak,  came  over 
the  bank.  Kamaroff  advanced,  cap  in  hand,  and  inquired  where 
I  spent  the  night.  I  informed  him,  and  he  remarked  that  we  had 
made  an  excellent  day's  work  yesterday.  It  was  now  my  turn, 
and  I  replied,  "  Yes,  Kamaroff,  that  is  the  way  the  Americans 
travel ! " 

About  three  o'dxk  in  the  afternoon  we  reached  Unalakli'k. 
Here  we  found  Osi   ^  alone,  Popofif  having  been  recalled  to 

the  Redoubt.  After  ..  ,  trouble,  I  hired  a  Mahlemut  sled  to 
take  our  goods  on  to  St.  Michael's.  All  the  Innuit  were  away 
hunting  deer,  only  two  or  three  old  people  remaining  in  the  vil- 
lage. 

After  a  cold,  rough  journey,  we  reached  the  Redoubt  about 
noon  of  the  23d.  The  wind  was  very  strong,  the  ice  broken  and 
piled  up  in  barricades  twenty  feet  high.  The  temperature  aver- 
aged twenty-eight  below  zero.  We  were  just  in  time  for  a  hot 
bath,  and  Stcpanoff  received  me  with  great  hospitality.  A  pri- 
vate letter  from  the  Russian  ex-governor  had  informed  him  of  the 
circumstances  of  the  sale  and  transfer  of  the  country,  and  the 
arrival  of  General  Rousseau  at  Sitka.  The  winter  expeditions 
from  the  Redoubt  had  been  very  successful,  and  more  furs  had 
been  obtained  than  for  many  previous  years. 

I  obtained  two  bags  of  flour,  some  powder,  and  tea,  from  Ste- 
panoflT.  At  home  it  would  sound  queerly  to  talk  of  going  three 
hundred  and  fifty  miles  for  a  bag  of  flour,  but  here  it  was  well 
worth  the  trouble. 

Though  still  very  weak,  I  felt  perfectly  well,  and  could  ascribe 
my  recovery  only  to  the  exercise  of  will  required  by  the  journey. 

On  the  27th  of  February  I  started  with  I'avloff  for  Nukito. 
We  were  able  to  pass  around  Tolstoi  Point  on  the  ice,  an  unussual 
occurrence,  which  facilitated  our  journey.  We  arrived  at  Unala- 
kli'k on  the  29th.  I  found  that  Ostrofskoi  had  made  away  with  a 
good  many  of  the  ukali  which  I  had  relied  on  to  feed  my  dogs  on 
the  return.  It  was  impossible  to  obtain  restitution,  as  ukali  were 
not  to  be  had  for  the  asking.   These  fellows  are  inveterate  thieves. 

On  the  2d  of  March  I  reached  Iktigalik.     I  had  hired  several 


ii 


THE   YUKON   TERRITORY. 


185 


dogs  on  my 
mile  or  two 

to  push  on, 
,  came  over 
uircd  where 
that  we  had 
3w  my  turn, 

Americans 

1  Unalakh'k. 

recalled  to 
mut  sled  to 

were  away 
g  in  the  vil- 

Lloubt  about 

broken  and 

rature  aver- 

le  for  a  hot 

ity.     A  pri- 

1  him  of  the 

try,  and  the 

expeditions 

re  furs  had 

X,  from  Ste- 
oing  three 
it  was  well 

)uld  ascribe 
je  journey, 
for  Nuhito. 
Ian  unusual 
|l  at  Unala- 
way  with  a 
ny  dogs  on 
lukali  were 
ite  thieves, 
[ed  several 


extra  dogs  from  the  Russians,  and  found  two  of  my  own  here, 
which  Andrea  had  stolen.  The  place  was  crowded  with  the 
Kiiiyuh  Ingaliks,  and  I  gave  him  a  rating  for  his  dishonesty,  in 
their  presence,  which  made  him  sneak  away  like  a  whipped  cur. 

We  determined  to  strike  on  to  the  tundra  directly  beyond 
Ikti'galik,  and  I  would  recommend  this  plan  to  all  future  travel- 
lers. It  is  far  preferable  to  the  old  route  by  way  of  Ulukuk. 
Ry  keeping  along  the  bases  of  the  Ulukuk  hills,  a  nearly  even 
road  may  be  obtained  as  far  as  the  Vesolia  Sopka.  At  the  first 
bank  beyond  Ikti'galik  the  runner  of  the  new  sled  carrying  the 
bidarra  broke  short  off.  My  mortification  was  great,  and  the 
Russians  passed  on,  thinking  us  disabled  for  several  days  at  least. 
To  make  a  birch  runner,  the  wood  must  be  bent  while  green,  and 
then  well  seasoned.  To  do  that  here  was  out  of  the  question, 
and  wc  lighted  our  pipes  and  sat  down  to  consider  what  could  be 
done.  After  consultation,  Kun'lla  started  off  with  the  axe  over 
his  shoulder,  and  I  made  a  good  fire,  and  put  on  the  chynik, 
determined  to  be  comfortable,  whatever  might  turn  up.  Kun'lla 
returned  with  a  slender  spruce  tree,  which  he  rapidly  hewed 
into  the  shape  of  a  runner.  I  sent  an  Indian  back  to  the  village 
to  borrow  an  awl  and  buy  some  small  sealskin  line.  As  soon  as 
the  runner  was  hewn  out,  we  bent  it  in  the  fire,  and  in  two 
hours  we  had  the  sled  completely  repaired.  The  new  runner 
was  thick,  heavy,  and  clumsy,  but  answered  the  purpose  very 
well.  Deerskins,  to  prevent  the  sealskin  from  chafing,  were  laid 
on  the  sled,  which  had  no  rail.  The  boat  was  then  replaced,  and 
strongly  lashed.  We  took  our  tea,  and  proceeded  on  our  way. 
In  the  afternoon  we  passed  the  Russians,  who  had  camped  near 
a  small  stream.  They  were  much  surprised  and  disgusted  at 
.seeing  us  so  soon.  We  camped  just  beyond  the  Ves(')lia  S<')pka. 
1  had  the  heaviest  load  on  one  of  the  Ihulson  Hay  sleds,  Kun'lla 
had  the  bidarra,  and  an  Indian  called  Blackbird  had  the  other 
sled. 

My  team  comprised  three  dogs.  The  leader  was  a  fine  black 
dog  named  Ikkee,  who  had  a  magnificent  bushy  tail,  which  was 
always  erect  and  curly.  The  next  one  was  black  and  white,  and 
called  Sawashka,  a  hard  worker  and  of  amiable  disposition. 
Next  the  sled  was  old  Kamiik,  my  favorite,  and  the  ugliest  dog 
in  the  brigade.     His  tail,  poorly  furnished  with  hair,  was  usually 


M  llil 


K'l  .    i; 

I'  m 


\  i 


s 


t»  ! 


Iii.l 


|;::f 


:lil 


|.:i 


i86 


THE   YUKON   TERRITORY. 


between  his  legs  ;  his  ears  were  short,  and  scored  with  the  marks 
of  many  battles.  His  face  was  stolid,  and  exhibited  emotion 
only  when  feeding-time  came,  or  when  some  other  dog  ventured 
too  near  or  lagged  behind.  His  body  was  large,  and  his  legs 
were  like  pillars  ;  his  color  was  white,  with  dirty  spots.  Alto- 
gether he  looked  a  good  deal  like  a  lean  pig.  But  how  he  would 
pull ! 

A  description  can  give  but  a  faint  idea  of  dog-driving.  It  is 
an  art  in  itself.  The  nature  of  dogs  is  cross-grained,  and  they 
frequently  do  the  wrong  thing  with  apparently  the  best  inten- 
tions. Each  has  a  peculiar  look  and  character.  Some  are  irre- 
claimably  lazy,  others  enjoy  hard  work  unless  pushed  too  far  ; 
some  arc  greedy  and  snappish,  others  good-humored  and  decor- 
ous. All  arc  very  joractical,  showing  affection  only  for  the  man 
who  feeds  them,  and  for  him  only  as  long  as  he  feeds  them. 
Hence  the  voyageur  should  always  feed  his  own  team  himself 
They  dislike  the  whip,  not  only  when  in  use,  but  in  the  abstract. 
They  will  always  destroy  one  if  they  can  get  at  it.  The  whip  is 
made  with  a  short  handle,  a  very  long  lash,  braided  of  leather  or 
sealskin,  and  usually  loaded  with  sheet  lead  or  bullets  in  the 
core. 

As  we  walk  behind  the  sled,  which  ordinarily  travels  about  four 
miles  an  hour,  wc  hnve  an  excellent  opportunity  of  studying 
dogs.  One  habit  appears  to  be  ingrained  in  their  nature.  It  ex- 
hibits itself  at  street-corners  in  cities,  and  at  every  bush,  stump, 
or  lump  of  ice  which  they  pass  on  the  road.  When  travelling 
rapidly,  some  dog  will  stop  twenty  times  an  hour  to  examine 
any  bush  or  twig  which  attracts  his  attention.  If  a  leader,  it 
checks  the  whole  team  ;  if  not,  he  usually  entangles  himself  in  the 
harness,  and  jumps  frantically  to  release  himself  as  he  hears  the 
well-known  crack  of  the  whip  about  his  ears.  If  a  log  comes  in 
the  way,  and  the  driver  is  not  ready  with  his  help  in  urging  the 
sled  over  it,  down  they  all  drop  on  their  haunches,  wagging  their 
tails  and  looking  about  with  a  pleased  expression,  or  uttering  a 
sentimental  howl.  With  a  crack  of  the  whip,  and  a  shout  to 
Kamuk  to  stir  himself,  their  reveries  are  broken,  and  we  go  on. 
Going  down  hill,  the  whip  and  lungs  are  again  called  into  requi- 
sition, to  keep  the  dogs  out  of  the  way  of  the  descending  sled. 
It  has  been   said  that  no  man  can  drive  dogs  without  swear- 


,1 


THE   YUKON    TERRITORY. 


187 


ing 


I  think  it  is  in  a  measure  true.  At  all  events,  he  must  have 
a  ready  store  of  energetic  expletives  to  keep  them  on  the  qui  vive. 
In  Russian  America  we  always  used  the  indigenous  epithets,  which, 
as  we  did  not  understand  them,  were  hardly  sinful.  If  there  is  a 
tree  near  the  trail,  the  dogs  invariably  try  to  pass  it  on  different 
sides,  until  checked  by  their  harness  ;  they  constantly  exhibit  such 
idiosyncrasies,  and  it  was  lucky  for  Job  that  he  was  not  set  to  dog- 
driving  :  if  he  had  been,  I  fear  his  posthumous  reputation  would 
have  suffered. 

At  noon  've  stop  for  a  cup  of  tea.  Here  the  true  voyageur  ex- 
hibits himscif  in  building  the  fire.  A  greenhorn  or  an  Indian  will 
make  a  conical  fire,  at  the  side  of  which  you  must  place  your  chy- 
nik,  and  wait  until  it  chooses  to  boil.  A  white  man's  fire  is  built 
in  layers.  The  sticks  in  each  layer  are  parallel  with  each  other, 
and  at  right  angles  with  those  in  the  layer  beneath.  A  few  chips 
are  placed  upon  this  pile,  which  presents  a  broad,  flat  top,  on 
which  you  set  your  chynik.  A  few  shavings  are  whittled  from  a 
dry  stick,  and  you  light  your  fire  on  the  top  of  the  pile.  The 
free  circulation  soon  puts  it  all  in  a  blaze,  your  kettle  boils  in  ten 
minutes,  you  drop  in  your  tea  and  let  it  boil  up  once,  and  you  are 
ready  for  "chy  peet."  If  the  fire  be  lighted  at  the  bottom,  it 
takes  twice  as  long  to  kindle,  and  if  you  boil  your  tea  more  than 
an  instant,  it  is  ruined.  Many  travellers  drink  a  caustic  decoction 
of  tannin,  which  they  call  tea;  such  unfortunates  are  to  be  pitied. 

Tea  over,  you  empty  out  your  chynik,  and  set  it  in  the  snow  a 
moment  to  cool,  that  you  may  not  burn  your  sled  cover.  Having 
replaced  it,  and  seen  that  the  dogs  are  untangled,  you  shout  to 
Kamiik,  "  Be  off,  you  old  sinner  !  "  Down  goes  his  tail,  and  away 
you  go.  A  greenhorn  will  have  burnt  his  skin  boots  meanwhile, 
trying  to  warm  his  shins,  and  have  put  the  axe  where  it  will  knock 
a  hole  in  the  chynik  or  drop  out  through  the  slatting  of  the  sled- 
bottom,  if  you  have  n't  looked  out  for  him.  The  wind  blows  the 
snow  in  his  eyes ;  his  toes  bump  against  the  bar  of  his  snowshoes ; 
now  and  then  he  trips  himself  up  with  them  :  truly,  the  poor  fel- 
low has  a  hard  time.  If  he  has  the  right  grit  in  him,  he  will  soon 
learn,  and  laugh  at  these  things  as  you  and  I  do.  Up  hill  and 
clown  dale,  until  it  begins  to  be  dusky  in  the  south.  Greenhorn 
thinks  it  is  the  west,  because  the  sun  sets  there.  In  June  we  will 
show  it  to  him  setting  due  north,  and  rising  there  within  half  an 


w 


hi  '  i 


1 88 


THE   YUKON   TERRITORY. 


hour  after  it  went  down.  The  chief  of  the  brigade  has  been  on 
the  lookout  for  a  place  where  there  is  plenty  of  dry  wood,  and 
having  selected  his  ground,  gives  the  signal  for  halting.  Kurflla, 
who  delights  in  showing  his  proficiency  in  the  use  of  the  American 
axe,  makes  a  straight  wake  for  yonder  dead  spruce.  Greenhorn 
takes  an  a.xe,  and  chooses  a  small  tree  to  begin  with.  Somehow 
or  other,  the  chips  don't  fly  as  they  do  over  yonder  ;  but,  by  dint 
of  chopping  all  round  like  a  beaver,  it  finally  falls,  burying  him 
under  the  branches  in  the  deep  snow,  where  he  must  stick  until 
somebody  picks  him  up. 

Meanwhile  the  direction  of  the  wind  is  noted,  and  the  camp 
placed  accordingly;  —  not  so  that  it  will  blow  on  the  backs  of 
those  who  sit  in  front  of  the  fire,  —  because  this  always  makes 
an  eddy  where  the  smoke  will  remain,  choking  everybody, — 
but  so  that  the  wind  will  blow  on  their  sides,  lengthways  of 
the  camp,  and  carry  the  smoke  away.  In  March  we  must 
excavate  the  snow  to  a  depth  of  eight  or  ten  feet  before  we 
can  find  solid  ground  to  build  '  'r  fire  on.  If  built  above  the 
ground  it  will  gradually  sink  beneath  the  snow,  leaving  us  in  the 
cold.  One  Indian  goes  in  search  of  water,  another  cuts  spruce 
boughs,  and  you  instruct  greenhorn  in  the  art  of  placing  the 
twigs,  stem  down  and  tips  up,  so  as  to  make  a  soft  and  springy 
bed.  A  green  log  is  placed  at  the  foot  of  the  bed,  to  keep  the 
blankets  out  of  the  fire.  Some  one  is  cutting  poles  for  a  tempo- 
rary stagi..  On  this  the  sleds  are  placed,  with  their  loads  intact, 
to  keep  them  out  of  the  way  of  the  omnivorous  dogs.  The  har- 
nesses are  also  hung  out  of  reach  for  the  same  reason.  Then 
each  dog  receives  his  supper  of  one  dried  salmon,  and  you  carry 
your  blankets  to  the  camp.  Kun'lla  comes  staggering  under  the 
weight  of  a  huge  back-log,  and  follows  it  up  with  half  a  dozen 
more,  and  also  a  supply  for  morning  use.  The  camp  being  made, 
and  everything  else  done,  we  finally  light  the  fire.  Greenhorn 
asks  why  you  don't  do  that  first,  and  you  explain  that  the  effect 
would  be  to  keep  everybody  in  the  vicinity  warming  themselves, 
while  the  camp  was  unfinished,  and  hence  the  other  necessary 
work  would  be  slighted. 

The  ever  grateful  cup  of  tea  being  ready,  and  such  other  pro- 
visions cooked  as  you  may  have,  you  enjoy  the  evening  meal  and 
discuss  the  events  of  the  day.     Supper  being  over,  you  light  your 


THE  YUKON    TERRITORY. 


189 


pipe.  What  demon  would  have  the  heart  to  deprive  the  weary 
voyageiir  of  his  tobacco,  —  or  what  money  would  buy  the  pleasure 
which  he  derives  from  it  ?  Oceans  of  whiskey  would  poorly  re- 
place his  cup  of  tea,  and  untold  gold  would  fail  to  purchase  his  pipe. 

That  delicious  fifteen  minutes  being  over,  one  last  glance  must 
be  taken  at  the  sleds  and  dogs.  As  you  return,  the  inmates  of 
the  camp  are  invisible,  beneath  the  surface.  The  fire  and  smoke 
and  glow,  which  issue  fron.  the  excavation  in  the  snow  and  illu- 
minate the  dark  evergreens  behind  the  camp,  remind  one  of  the 
mouth  of  Inferno.  The  deerskins  are  spread  ;  if  you  are  luxu- 
rious you  have  a  small  pillow,  if  not,  you  take  the  biscuit-bag  as 
a  substitute.  Water  being  scarce,  a  large  cake  of  snow  is  impaled 
on  a  stake  before  the  fire.  Beneath  it  is  the  chynik,  which  soon 
fills  with  water  as  the  cake  melts.  Your  nips  and  the  straw  from 
your  boots  are  hung  in  the  smoke,  to  be  thoroughly  dried  for  to- 
morrow's use.  Unless  this  precaution  is  adopted,  you  will  have 
cold  feet  the  next  day.  You  cover  yourself  with  a  blanket  on 
which  skins  of  the  arctic  hare  or  rabbit  have  been  sewn.  This 
forms  a  light  but  very  warm  protection.  I  have  slept  comfortably 
with  nothing  else  and  with  the  air  at  sixty  below  zero.  You  pull 
your  head  entirely  under  the  blanket,  leaving  a  very  small  hole 
for  air,  and  if  the  dogs,  who  like  r  warm  corner,  do  not  come  and 
lie  down  on  top,  you  may  enjoy  undisturbed  the  sleep  of  the  just. 

Leaving  our  camp  in  the  morning,  we  pushed  on  among  the 
trees  toward  Beaver  Lake.  Every  step  was  taken  on  snowshoes. 
The  snow  was  blown  in  our  teeth,  and  the  wind  howled  in  such  a 
way  that  we  knew  poorga  was  raging  on  the  tundra.  Near  the 
edge  of  the  timber  at  Beaver  Lake  we  found  an  old  camp.  This 
we  cleaned  out  and  enlarged,  making  a  first-rate  camp  of  it.  It 
was  useless  to  go  farther,  as  there  were  no  trees  and  it  was  impos- 
sible to  travel  over  the  open  country.  The  great  spruce  trees 
rocked  and  moaned  with  the  fury  of  the  blast,  and  the  snow  flew 
in  sheets  far  above  our  heads.  The  next  morning  it  was  even 
worse.  As  we  were  well  supplied  with  provisions  and  dog-feed,  I 
concluded  to  remain  where  we  were.  In  the  afternoon  the  Rus- 
sians came  up.  I  invited  them  to  occupy  part  of  our  camp,  and 
told  them  they  could  not  go  over  a  mile  farther,  and  then  would 
not  be  half  as  comfortable.  But  no  ;  their  energy  was  not  so 
easily  daunted,  and  on  they  went. 


IQO 


THE   YUKON    TERRITORY. 


i. 


Y 


I 


i 


I  have  spoken  of  travelling  on  snowshoes.  To  travel  without 
them  in  winter  is  impossible,  but  sometimes  on  an  old,  well-beaten 
road,  or  with  a  hard  crust  on  the  snow,  and  while  travelling  over 
ice,  they  are  not  needed.  The  different  kinds  of  snowshoes  are, 
in  a  measure,  characteristic  of  the  locality  where  they  arc  used. 


Different  kinds  of  snowshoes. 

The  Innuit  snowshoe  (a)  is  small  and  nearly  flat.  It  is  seldom 
over  thirty  inches  long.  The  netting  is  open  and  strong,  being 
made  of  fine  remni.  That  which  supports  the  foot  is  made  of 
strong  mahout,  which  passes  through  holes  in  the  frame.  It 
is  strong,  simple,  and  well  adapted  for  walking  on  the  hard  snow 
of  the  coast.     Both  shoes  are  alike. 

The  Ingalik  snowshoe  (c)  is  much  larger.  Mine  were  five  feet 
eight  inches  long,  and  strongly  curved  up  in  front.  They  are 
always  rights  and  lefts,  a  slight  difference  being  made  in  the 
curves  of  the  frame  of  the  two  shoes.  They  are  much  wider  in 
front,  and  the  netting,  which  is  pf  deer  sinew  twisted  into  twine, 
is  much  closer  than  in  the  Innuit  shoes.  The  netting  under  the 
foot  is  the  same.  In  all  the  snowshoes  the  strings  are  alike. 
Two  short  loops  over  the  toe,  and  a  long  one  around  the  foot 
above  the  heel,  fasten  it  to  the  foot.  In  walking,  the  toe  sinks 
into  an  opening  in  the  netting  provided  for  the  purpose.  Begin- 
ners generally  strike  their  toes  against  the  bar,  but  after  some 
experience  they  learn  how  to  adjust  the  loops  and  prevent  this. 


/ 


THE  YUKON   TERRITORY. 


191 


Fo  travel  without 
m  old,  well-beaten 
le  travelling  over 
of  snowshoes  are, 
;re  they  are  used. 


■^.'- 


i  ; 


J 


flat.     It  is  seldom 
and  strong,  being 

foot  is  made  of   [ 

in  the  frame.     It  |. 

on  the  hard  snow  [ 

i 

[ine  were  five  feet  \ 

front.  They  are  1 
;ing  made  in  the  I 
ire  much  wider  in  f 
wisted  into  twine,  ^ 
netting  under  the  | 
strings  are  alike 
e  around  the  foot  fl 
ing,  the  toe  smks  | 

purpose.  Begin- 
ir,  but  after  some 
id  prevent  this. 


The  Kutchin  snowshoe  (n)  is  made  a  little  smaller  than  the 
Ingalik  pattern,  but  much  in  the  same  style.  The  netting  is 
much  closer  and  finer,  and  is  made  of  fine  line,  cut  from  prepared 
deerskins,  called  babfche.  The  whole  .shoe  is  prettier  and  more 
artistic.     It  is  frequently  painted  and  ornamented  with  beads. 

The  Hudson  Bay  snowshoe  (b)  is  very  small,  thirty  inches 
being  the  regulation  size.  This  is  in  order  that  it  may  sink 
deeper  in  the  snow  and  beat  a  better  road  for  the  sleds.  It 
is  sharply  curved  upwards  in  front,  and  is  furnished  with  a 
knob  to  break  the  crust  of  the  snow.  The  frame  is  flat,  not 
rounded  as  in  the  other  kinds.  The  foot  netting  is  put  on 
around  the  frame,  and  not  through  holes  in  it.  All  the  net- 
ting is  very  fine  and  close,  and  made  of  babi'che.  They  are  gen- 
erally painted  in  gay  colors,  and  ornamented  with  tufts  of  colored 
worsted.  The  latter  in  moist  snow  must  be  a  great  nuisance,  as 
the  snow  must  stick  to  them  and  greatly  increase  the  weight. 
In  hunting,  the  Hudson  Bay  men  use  the  larger  Kutchin  shoe. 
The  latter  is  probably  the  best  of  all  for  general  use. 

The  next  morning  the  wind  had  gone  down,  and  we  started 
very  early.  We  passed  the  Russian  camp,  about  a  mile  beyond 
ours,  and  soon  overhauled  them  on  a  side  hill,  where  they  were 
stuck  in  a  large  drift.  I  proposed  to  go  ahead  and  break  the 
road  for  them,  at  the  same  time  taking  some  of  their  load, 
though  my  sleds  were  already  the  heaviest.  My  offer  was  ac- 
cepted, and  we  led  the  way  for  the  remainder  of  the  trip.  We 
camped  near  the  Ass's  Head  that  night,  and  about  ten  miles 
above  Kaltag  on  the  Yukon  the  following  day. 

The  road  on  the  river  was  exceedingly  bad.  The  long  March 
day  and  the  warm  sun  made  the  snow  moist  and  sticky.  Each 
snowshoe  would  raise  ten  pounds  adhering  to  it,  and  it  was  ex- 
tremely hard  travelling.  We  took  tea  three  times  during  the  day. 
Tired  out  with  running  before  the  dogs,  Pavloff  s  Indian  lay  down 
on  the  snow  and  refused  to  run  any  further.  None  of  the  Rus- 
sians were  in  a  condition  to  take  his  place.  We  were  only  some 
three  miles  from  Nulato,  and  I  gave  my  sled  to  the  runner,  and 
took  his  place.  It  was  really  a  relief  to  e.xercise  another  set  of 
muscles,  after  walking  behind  the  sled  and  pushing  all  day.  We 
found  all  in  bed  at  Nulato,  as  we  were  not  expected  for  several 
days,  and  the  Russians  were  especially  surprised  to  see  me,  sup- 


i 

V 


192 


THE  YUKON  TERRITORY. 


posing  mc  to  have  been  too  sick  to  return  immediately.  PavlolTg 
wife  had  the  samovar  ready,  and  we  all  took  a  cup  of  tea  to- 
gcibcr,  which  did  much  to  relieve  the  fatigue  of  the  day. 

The  Russian  fish-trap  was  catching  nothing.  Mine  had  been 
very  fortunate.  There  was  a  pile  of  several  hundred  frozen  fish 
in  the  storehouse,  Cj  lite  sufficient  to  feed  my  dogs.  The  next  day 
Blackbird  was  handsomely  rewarded  for  his  work,  and  sent  back 
with  the  e.xtra  dogs  to  Unalakli'k. 

Repairs  being  needed  on  the  ri."h-trap,  I  discovered  that  the 
Russians  had  appropriated  all  my  ^jxtra  wood  during  my  absence. 
After  some  trouble  I  obtained  restitution. 

Having  a  small  piece  of  glass,  I  inserted  it  in  the  window. 
After  getting  the  light  all  winter  only  through  parchment,  it  was 
a  great  relief  to  be  able  to  peep  out  occasionally,  and  to  admit  a 
few  rays  of  pure  sunlight. 

The  plans  which  had  beeii  settled  upon  by  the  Russians  were 
about  as  follows :  A  raft  was  to  be  built  in  the  spring,  and  on  his 
return  from  the  annual  trip  to  Nuklukahyet,  Pavloff  was  to  em- 
bark with  all  the  Russian  employes  and  goods  belonging  to  the 
Russian  American  Company,  and  make  the  best  of  his  way  to  the 
mouth  of  the  river,  where  boats  from  the  Redoubt  would  meet 
him  and  convey  them  to  St.  Michael's. 

In  the  latter  part  of  the  month  of  March  I  made  several  expe- 
ditions, without  dogs,  to  the  h'lly  region  back  of  Nukito.  In  this 
manner  much  geographical  and  geological  information  was  ob- 
tainet'. 

About  the  ist  of  April,  Bidarshik,  one  of  the  Koyiikuns  who  had 
accompanied  us  to  Fort  Yukon,  arrived  from  the  mountains,  where 
he  had  been  deer-hunting.  He  brought  a  sled-load  of  meat,  of 
which  I  secured  the  greater  part,  —  a  most  acceptable  addition  to 
our  monotonous  fare  of  fish-soup.  He  brought  the  information 
that  Larriovvn  was  endeavoring  to  excite  the  Koyukuns  to  active 
ho-stilities  against  the  Nulato  post.  Larriown  was  one  of  a  family 
of  five  brothers,  all  Influpntial  men  among  the  Koyukuns.  One, 
whose  name  1  could  not  obtain,  had  recently  died.  He  had  been 
concerned  in  the  first  Nulato  massacre,  and  was  accused  of  having 
killed  Barnard.  Since  that  time  he  had  committed  many  outrages. 
A  Yukon  Indian,  named  Nikolai,  who  had  been  extremely  useful  to 
Major  Kennicott's  party  in  their  explorations  about  Koyukuk,  had 


THE   YUKON    TERRITORY. 


'93 


y.  PavlofTs 
p  of  tea  to- 
ic  clay. 
\c  had  been 
1  frozen  fish 
^he  next  clay 
id  sent  back 

red  that  the 
my  absence. 

the  window, 
inient,  it  was 
d  to  admit  a 

Lissians  were 
r,  and  on  his 
T  was  to  em- 
inging  to  the 
is  way  to  the 
would  meet 

icveral  expe- 
ito.     In  this 
ion  was  ob- 
is who  had 
itains,  where 
of  meat,  of 
addition  to 
information 
Ins  to  active 
of  a  family 
:uns.     One, 
lie  had  been 
led  of  having 
[ly  outrages, 
lely  useful  to 
)yukuk,  had 


an  exceedingly  pretty  wife,  and,  with  his  brother,  was  possessed  of 
much  property.  In  the  fall  of  1866,  Larriinvn's  brother  iutluced 
Nikolai  and  his  brother  to  accompany  him  to  the  mountains  after 
ilcer.  'I'herc  the  former  killed  both  of  them,  and  hid  the  bodies, 
securing  their  guns  and  ammunition.  All  the  autumn  and  far  into 
winter,  the  other  Indians  sought  tiie  brothers  in  vain.  At  last 
the  murderer,  tired  of  hearing  about  them,  led  the  searchers  to 
the  place  where  they  lay,  and  boldly  avowed  his  crime.  He  then 
went  to  the  house  where  they  had  lived,  and  plundered  it.  Niko- 
lai's mother  reproached  him  with  the  unprovoked  murder,  and 
he  threw  her  into  the  fire,  forced  Nikolai's  wife  to  accomi)any 
him,  and  fled  to  the  mountains.  Of  the  whole  family,  oidy  the 
little  son  of  Nikolai  and  his  sister,  who  were  away,  escaped. 
There  was  no  one  to  revenge  them,  and  the  murderer  escaped 
impunished.  In  the  fall  of  1S67  he  died  of  pleurisy.  Much  sick- 
ness of  the  kind  prevailed  during  the  winter,  and  Larriown,  whose 
dictum  as  a  great  shaman  was  not  to  be  denied,  accused  the  Rus- 
sians of  having  caused  the  sickness  and  death  by  their  sorceries. 

his  may  seem  incredible,  but  such  reasoning  is  characteristic 

die  Indian  mind.  The  remaining  brothers  sent  beads  to  the 
various  Indians  as  an  inducement  to  attack  the  Russians ;  but  so 
far  they  had  hesitated,  from  the  scarcity  of  provisions.  Bidarshik, 
under  promise  of  secrecy,  divulged  the  plot  to  me,  and  begged 
nie  to  leave  Nulato.  I  took  him  into  the  magazine,  showed 
him  my  stores  of  ammunition  and  my  arms,  and  told  him  that 
I  was  prepared  for  anything ;  that  the  Russians  had  given 
me  the  use  of  a  house  in  the  fort,  and  if  they  were  attacked  I 
should  assist  them  against  their  enemies,  —  giving  him  permission 
to  inform  the  Koyukuns  of  the  determination.  Rumors  were  rife, 
during  the  entire  spring,  of  a  proposed  attack,  but  none  was  at- 
tempted. 

De'ails  have  already  been  given  of  the  practice  of  shanuinism 
among  the  Indians,  and  the  various  tribes  have  been  described. 
A  few  more  particulars  in  regard  to  them  and  their  mode  of  life 
may  not  be  uninteresting. 

The  Indian  character,  with  some  modifications,  is  the  same 
almost  everywhere.  The  Ingaliks  are  peacefully  inclined,  and  as 
industrious  as  any  Indians.  They  are  more  honest  than  the  major- 
ity of  uneducated  whites,  and  much  more  so  than  those  tribes  who 
13 


194 


THE   YUKON   TERRITORY. 


Iir'i ' 


^«i 


?  i 


I 


)»( 


have  been  degraded  by  the  use  of  liquor,  They  are  courageous, 
but  not  bloodthirsty,  and  are  easily  controlled  by  a  firm  hand. 
Avarice  appears  strongly  in  their  characters  ;  the  affections  are 
but  slightly  developed,  and  are  exhibited  only  toward  their  chil- 
dren. The  latter  are  obedient  and  respectful  to  their  parents, 
but  exhibit  no  love  for  them.  The  old  people  live  on  odds  and 
ends  of  food  which  the  young  ones  do  not  eat ;  this  seems  rather 
to  be  a  custom  than  any  deliberate  neglect.  The  opinions  of  the 
old  men  are  always  consulted,  and  usually  followed.  Foster- 
children  are  not  uncommon.  The  fruit  of  their  labor  belongs  to 
the  person  who  reared  them,  and  they  are  in  a  manner  slaves, 
but  still  possess  property  of  their  own,  and  marry  when  they  like. 
The  authority  of  the  foster-parent  is  retained  as  long  as  he  lives. 
Children  are  anxiously  desired,  even  when  women  have  no  hus- 
bands. The  Ingalik  women  are  less  inclined  to  sensuality  than 
many  others,  but  are  by  no  means  strict  in  their  morals.  Incon- 
tinence on  the  part  of  a  wife  is  seldom  punished  with  anything 
more  than  a  beating.  Excessive  laziness  or  ill-temper  sometimes 
induces  the  men  to  discard  them  entirely.  Tlie  women  are  rarely 
chastised,  and  usually  well  treated.  Both  sexei'  are  dirty  about 
their  persons,  and  handsome  women  are  exceedingly  rnre.  The 
old  ones  are  often  hideous.  The  Inga'iks  are  tall,  but  more  slen- 
der than  the  Innuit,  and  their  legs  are  often  ill-. shaped.  Thi.s 
comes  from  constant  sitting  in  a  small  caiioc  in  summer,  and 
walking  on  snowshoes  in  winter.  They  are  seldom  very  muscu- 
lar ;  those  who  live  on  fish  arc  invariably  the  most  dirty,  weak, 
cowardly,  degraded,  and  least  intelligent.  Their  number  appears 
to  be  decreasing.  Few  women  have  more  than  two  children  ; 
twins  are  almost  unheard  of  Many  women  are  barren.  The 
number  of  deaths  annually  increases,  from  their  habit  of  inhaling 
the  smoke  of  the  Circassian  tobacco  into  the  lungs,  which  greatly 
adtis  to  the  prevalence  of  lung  diseases. 

While  the  Indians  are  exposed  to  privations  of  every  kind  from 
childhood,  they  are,  if  anything,  less  hardy  than  the  whites.  A 
white  man  of  ordinary  strength  and  endurance  can  invariably  tire 
oi't  any  Indian,  as  soon  as  he  has  become  accustomed  to  the 
mode  of  life,  I  believe  that  the  white  can  surpass  the  Indian  in 
everything,  with  but  little  difficulty,  even  in  those  things  to  which 
the  latter  has  devoted  his  attention  from  infancy.     All  my  own 


II 


1 1 


THE   YUKON   TERRITORY. 


'95 


experience  tends  to  confirm  this  opinion,  and  it  is  certain  that 
Indian  sagacity  has  been  greatly  overrated,  especially  in  the  fables 
of  such  romancers  as  Cooper. 

Diseases  are  quite  as  })revalcnt  among  them  as  among  civilized 
people.  As  yet,  among  the  Ingaliks,  zymotic  diseases  aio  un- 
known. Pleurisy,  pneumonia,  bronchitis,  dyspepsia  (not  rare), 
asthma,  rheumatism,  colic,  hydrocephalus,  calculus,  uretliritis,  and 
hemorrhoids  were  noticed,  and  various  mild  diseases  of  the  skin, 
boils,  and  small  tumors  are  not  uncommon.  Oplithalmia  is  pro- 
duced by  the  reHection  of  sunlight  from  the  mist  arising  Irom  the 
melting  snow  in  the  .spring.  To  obviate  this,  they,  as  well  as  the 
Innuit,  make  use  of  goggles  after  the  annexed  pattern.     These 


Snow-goggles  of  the  Yukon  Indians 

are  made  of  soft  wood,  cut  to  fit  the  face,  and  tied  by  a  string 
behind  the  head.  They  are  pierced  with  one  or  two  slits  which 
admit  of  vision.  The  inside  is  blackened  with  charcoal,  and 
some  have  a  small  ledge  over  the  slit,  as  a  shade,  also  bhickcnetl. 
I  found  these  goggles  superior  to  those  of  green  glass  with  which 
n-e  were  provided. 

Curiously  enough,  a  taenia,  developed  from  hydroids  foi  :.d  in 
the  reindeer,  is  occasionally  found  among  these  Indians.  iiave 
seen  humpbacks,  club-feet,  and  other  malformations  among  Ko- 
yiikuns,  and  once  a  deaf-and-duml)  man.  Slrabisnais  is  common, 
and  I  have  seen  several  cases  of  cataract. 

Their  remedies,  besides  the  rites  practised  by  the  shamans,  are 
few  and  simple.  Bleeding,  scarification,  actual  cautery,  ligatures, 
stoum  baths,  and  fasting,  are  practised,  but  they  have  no  knowl- 
edge of  the  virtues  of  any  roots  or  herbh.     The  women  seem  e.\- 


196 


THE   YUKON   TERRITORY. 


U  J 


ii 


erupted  from  the  curse  of  Eve.  Delivery  takes  place  in  a  few 
minutes,  the  mother  kneeling  ;  no  pain  is  experienced,  and  she  is 
about  again  and  at  her  work  in  half  an  hour.  The  infant  is 
rubbed  with  grease,  washed  and  put  to  the  breast.  They  arc 
rarely  weaned  under  three  years. 

The  Indians  are  devoid  of  fortitude,  crying  at  a  scratch  or  cu'. 
which  we  should  consider  trifling  :  this  may  be  partly  ascribed  to 
ignorance.  They  are  short-lived,  few  men  reaching  forty-five. 
The  women  live  longer,  many  reaching  sixty.  Their  exact  ages 
can  seldom  be  determined,  as  they  keep  no  record  and  soon  for- 
get.    They  can  count  one  hundred,  but  no  further. 

The  work  is  divided  among  the  sexes  much  as  among  the  In- 
nuit.  There  is  no  such  enslavement  of  the  women  as  exists 
among  the  Kutchin  and  other  eastern  and  southern  tribes.  The 
men  do  nearly  all  the  hard  work.  They  have  no  pride  of  family 
such  as  is  so  prominent  among  the  Koloshes,  and  few  know  who 
were  their  grandfathers.  A  very  few  of  the  Ingaliks  have  more 
than  one  wife  ;  none,  as  far  as  I  know,  have  more  than  two.  The 
Koyukuns  are  more  lax  in  this  respect.  Cousins  do  not  marry 
among  the  Ingaliks,  but  there  are  no  rules  observed  by  the  Ko- 
yukuns in  regard  to  marriage.  There  is  a  superstition  among 
the  Koyukuns  that  a  youth  must  not  marry  until  he  has  killed  a 
deer,  otherwise  he  will  have  no  children.  They  believe  in  love- 
philters,  made  of  an  owl's  liver,  which,  to  be  successful,  must  be 
administered  without  exciting  suspicion.  The  totcmic  system, 
properly  so  called,  is  unknown  among  them,  but  the)  nave  the 
practice,  as  described  among  the  Innuit,  of  selecting  a  patron 
spirit.  Some  substitute  for  an  amulet  the  small  brass  crosses 
distributed  by  the  Russian  missionaries ;  sometimes  both  hang 
around  the  neck  on  the  same  string. 

The  Kutchin  have  always  possessed  the  system  of  totems,  and 
I  quote  the  following  remarks  from  an  account  of  them  by 
William  L.  Hardisty,  Esq.,  of  the  Hudson  Bay  Company.  All 
the  Kutchin  are  divided  into  three  castes  or  totems,  called  re- 
spectively Tchit-cJic-ah,  Tcug-ratscy,  and  Nat-sah-i,  according  to 
Strachan  Jones,  Esq.,  late  commander  at  Fort  Yukon.  Mr.  Har- 
disty says  :  — 

"With  reference  to  the  origin  of  caste  it  is  difficult  to  arrive  at  a  cor- 
rect solution.     I  believe  that  they  do  not  know,  themselves,  for  they  give 


THE   YUKON   TERRITORY. 


197 


nr  exact  ages 
and  soon  for- 


various  accounts  of  the  origin  of  the  three  great  divisions  of  mankind. 
Some  say  it  was  so  from  the  beginning  ;  others,  that  it  originated  when 
all  fowls,  animals,  and  fish  were  people,  — the  fish  were  the  C/iiisah,  the 
birds  Tain-gecs  ah-tsa/i,  and  the  animals  iVa/s/ng/i ;  some,  that  it  refers  to 
the  country  occupied  by  the  three  great  nations  who  are  supposed  to 
have  composed  the  whole  family  of  man  ;  wliile  others,  that  it  refers  to 
color,  for  the  words  are  api)licable.  Chitsah  refers  to  anything  of  a  pale 
color,  —  fair  people  ;  A'at-siiig/i,  from  a/i-ziiii:;/i,  black,  dark,  that  is,  dark 
people;  Taitigccs-ah-tsah,  neither  fair  nor  dark,  —  between  the  two, — 
from  tain-gecs,  the  half,  middle,  and  ah-tsah,  brightish,  from  tsu,  the  sun, 
bright,  glittering,  shining,  &c.  The  country  of  the  Na-tsik-kut-chin  is 
called  Nah-t'singh  to  this  day,  and  it  is  the  country  which  the  Nat-singh 
were  supposed  to  have  occupied.  The  Na-tsik-kut-chin  inhabit  the  high 
ridge  of  land  between  the  Yukon  and  the  Arctic  Sea.  They  live  en- 
tirely on  the  flesh  of  the  reindeer,  and  are  very  dark-skinned  compared 
with  the  Chit-sangh,  who  live  a  good  deal  on  fish.  Some  of  the  Chit- 
sangh  are  very  fair,  —  indeed,  in  some  instances  approaching  to  white. 
The  Tain-gees-ah-tsa,  taken  as  a  whole,  are  neither  so  fair  as  the  Chit- 
sangh  nor  so  dark  as  the  Nah-t'singh.  A  Chit-sangh  cannot,  by  their 
rules,  marry  a  Chit-sangh,  although  the  rule  is  set  at  naught  occasion- 
ally ;  but  when  it  does  take  place  the  persons  are  ridiculed  and  laughed 
at.  The  man  is  said  to  have  married  his  sister,  even  though  she  may  be 
from  another  tribe,  and  there  be  not  the  slightest  connection  by  blood 
between  them.  It  is  the  same  with  the  other  two  divisions.  Fhc  (  hil- 
dren  receive  caste  from  their  mother  :  if  a  male  Chit-sangli  marry  a 
Nah-t'singh  woman  the  children  are  Nah-t'singh,  and  if  a  male  Xah- 
t'singh  marry  a  Chit-sangh  woman  the  children  are  Chit-sangh  ;  so  that 
the  divisions  are  always  changing.  As  the  fathers  die  out  the  country 
inhabitetl  by  the  Chit-sangh  becomes  occupied  by  the  Nah-t'singh,  and 
vice  versa.  They  are  thus  continually  chan.uing  countries.  Latterly, 
however,  these  rules  are  not  so  strictly  obf.erved  or  enforced  as  formerly, 
and  no  doubc  will  soon  disappear  altogether.  One  good  thing  proceeded 
from  the  above  arrangement,  —  it  prevented  war  between  two  tribes  who 
were  naturally  hostile.  'I'he  ties  or  obligations  of  color  or  caste  were 
stronger  than  those  of  blood  or  nationality.  In  war  it  was  not  tribe 
against  tribe,  but  division  against  tlivision  ;  and  as  the  children  were 
ne.er  of  the  same  caste  as  the  father,  the  children  would,  of  course,  be 
against  the  father,  and  the  father  against  tlie  children,  —  part  of  one  tribe 
against  part  of  another,  and  part  against  itself ;  so  that,  as  may  be  sup- 
posed, there  would  have  been  general  confusion.  This,  however,  was 
not  likely  to  occur  very  often,  as  the  worst  of  parents  would  have  natu- 
rally preferred  peace  to  war  with  his  own  children." 


198 


THE   YUKON   TERRITORY. 


jlj! 


1:  i 


-  t 


It  is  not  improbable  that  the  custom  or  system  of  totems  origi- 
nated in  a  desire  to  prevent  war,  and  to  knit  the  tribes  more 
closely  togf^ther.  It  is  a  well-known  fact  that  most  of  the  inter- 
tribal Indian  wars  have  occurred  between  those  who  did,  and 
those  who  did  not,  adopt  the  system.  In  all  other  known  tribes 
the  names  of  the  totems  are  those  of  animals,  and  I  doubt  whether 
the  similarity  of  the  Kutchin  names  to  words  indicating  color,  re- 
ferred to  by  Mr.  Hardisty,  is  anything  more  than  an  accidental 
coincidence,  or  perhaps  an  error.  The  system  is  found  in  perfec- 
tion among  the  Thlinkets  or  Koloshes. 

The  method  of  disposing  of  the  dead  has  been  described.  The 
dances  or  festivals  of  the  Indians  are  less  varied  and  interesting 
than  those  of  the  Innuit.  They  are  held  at  their  yearly  meetings 
at  Nuklukahy^t,  or  other  neutral  trading-grounds.  Others  are 
given  by  men  who  desire  a  reputaticn  for  liberality;  others  by 
the  relatives  of  a  dead  person  a  year  after  the  death  ;  still  others 
by  the  inhabitants  of  a  village  who  desire  to  extend  their  hospi- 
tality to  neighboring  villages.  These  dances  have  been  previously 
alluded  to.  Their  choruses  are  less  euphonious  and  less  varied 
than  those  of  the  Innuit.  Their  dances  have  less  of  a  symbolic 
character.  Feasting  and  giving  presents  form  the  chief  attrac- 
tions at  their  festivals.  The  universal  chorus  is  "  He  !  he  !  ho ! 
ho !  "  indefinitely  prolonged.  When  the  feast  for  the  dead  is 
given  the  presents  are  hung  on  a  pole.  Around  this  the  dancing 
is  done.  The  Indians  wrap  themselves  in  blankets,  and  the  mo- 
tions are  simple  jumping  up  and  down,  gradually  moving  side- 
ways, as  in  the  old  game  of  "  threading  the  needle."  There  are 
no  graceful  motions  or  postiv  ings  of  the  arms  and  body,  as  in  the 
Innuit  dances. 

The  Indians,  particularly  the  women,  are  fond  of  singing,  apart 
from  their  festivals.  Their  ears  are  very  quick,  and  they  soon 
catch  up  an  air  fnm  hearing  it  sung  once  or  twice.  Our  parties 
contained  several  good  singers,  who  enlivened  the  evenings  with 
patriotic  and  comic  songs.  The  Indians  soon  caught  up  the  airs; 
and  "Tramp,  tramp,  the  boys  are  marching,"  "  Sixteen  cents  a 
dozen,"  and  "  Marching  through  Georgia"  may  now  be  heard 
from  the  mouth  of  almost  any  Yukon  Indian.  The  women  are 
fond  of  making  up  songs  of  their  own,  which  they  hum  over  their 
work.     Some  of  these  are  full  of  sentiment  and  not  unworthy  of 


THE   YUKON   TERRITORY. 


199 


preservation.  The  chorus  always  forms  a  prominent  part.  The 
following  is  a  free  translation,  preserving  the  original  rhythm, 
of  one  which  I  heard  a  Koyiikun  woman  singing  as  she  sewed. 
It  is  a  fair  specimen  of  many  which  were  translated  to  me,  some 
of  which  I  preserved.  It  is  the  song  of  a  mother  hushing  her 
child  to  sleep,  and  the  air  was  slow  and  soft. 


M 


cribed.     The 


*  Tiie  wind  l)lows  over  the  Yukon. 
My  husband  hunts  the  deer  on  the  Koyukun  mountains. 
Ahmi,  Ahmi,  sleep,  little  one. 

'•  There  is  no  wood  for  the  fire. 
Tiie  stone  axe  is  broken,  my  husband  carries  the  other. 
Where  is  tlie  sun-  warmth  ?  *     Hid  in  the  dam  of  the  beaver,  waiting  the 

spring-time  ? 
Ahmi,  Ahmi,  sleep,  little  one,  wake  not ! 

"  Look  not  for  ukali,  old  woman. 
Long  since  the  cache   was  emptied,  and  the  crow  does  not  light  on  tiie 

ridge-pole  ! 
Long  since   my  husband   departed.      Why   does   he   wait   in   the   moun- 
tains ? 
Ahmi,  Ahmi,  sleep,  little  one,  softly. 

'•  Wliore  is  my  own  ? 
Dacs  lie  lie  starving  on  the  hillside  ?     Why  does  he  linger? 
Comes  he  not  soon,  I  will  seek  him  among  the  mountains. 
Alimi,  Ahmi,  sleep,  little  one,  sleep. 

"  The  crow  has  come,  laugiiing. 
His  jjeak  is  red,  his  eyes  glisten,  the  false  one  ! 
'  Tlianks  for  a  good  meal  to  Kuskokala  tlie  shaman. 
On  the  sharp  mountain  quietly  lies  your  husband.' 
Aiimi,  Ahmi,  sleep,  little  one,  wake  not ! 

"'Twenty  deer's  tongues  tied  to  the  pack  on  his  shoulders  ; 
Not  a  tongue  in  his  mouth  to  call  to  his  wife  with. 
Wolves,  fo.xes,  and  ravens  are  tearing  and  fighting  for  morsels. 
Tough  and  hard  are  the  sinews  ;  not  so  the  child  in  your  bosom.' 
Aiinii,  Ahmi,  sleep,  little  one,  wake  not ! 

'•  Over  tlie  mountain  slowly  staggers  the  hunter. 
Two  bucks'  thighs  on  his  shoulders,  with  bladders  of  fat  between  them. 
Twonty  deers'  tongues  in  his  belt.     Go,  gatlier  wood,  old  woman ! 
OlTllew  the  crow,  —  liar,  cheat,  and  deceiver  ! 
Wake,  little  sleeper,  wake,  and  call  to  your  father  ! 

*  I.  c.  the  warm  principle  of  the  sunlight,  which  they  regard  as  a  personal  spirit. 


■f  !r 


'  If 


fi 


r 


I 


I    'i 


n.l 


200 


THE  YUKON  TERRITORY. 


"  He  brings  you  backfat,  marrow,  and  venison  fresli  from  the  mountain. 
Tired  and  worn,  lie  1ms  carved  a  toy  of  the  deer's  horn, 
While  he  was  sitting  and  waiting  long  for  the  deer  on  the  hillside. 
Wake,  and  see  the  crow,  hiding  himself  from  the  arrow  ! 
Wake,  little  one,  wake,  for  here  is  your  father!  " 

These  songs  are  heard  in  every  lodge.  Some  attain  wide  popu- 
larity, others  are  unknown  except  to  the  singer,  who  measures 
the  stroke  of  her  paddle  or  the  motion  of  her  needle  by  the  simple 
rhythm  of  the  air. 

The  bow  has  long  since  given  place  to  the  gun  among  the 
Koyiikuns,  Kutchin,  and  northern  Ingaliks.  Long,  single-bar- 
relled flint-locks  have  been  obtained  from  the  Hudson  Hay  Com- 
pany at  Fort  Yukon  since  1847,  and  at  about  the  same  time 
traders  from  the  Sandwich  Islands  began  to  visit  Grantley  Har- 
bor and  Kotzebue  Sound.  The  latter  trade  a  small  Iklgian 
fowling-piece,  double-barrelled  and  of  small  bore.  These  guns, 
with  some  ammunition,  bring  twenty  marten-skins,  and  the  Hud- 
son 13ay  guns  are  sold  for  forty. 

Their  habits,  though  not  as  regular  as  those  of  the  Innuit,  still 
pursue  a  nearly  uniform  course,  each  successive  year  being  much 
like  the  previous  one,  and  only  modified  by  the  greater  or  less 
abundance  of  game  and  fish. 

Life  among  the  Indians  is  a  constant  struggle  with  nature, 
wrestling  with  hunger,  cold,  and  fatigue  ;  the  victory  is  ever  un- 
certain, and  always  hard-earned.  The  opening  and  closing  of 
navigation  are  the  two  great  events  of  the  year.  The  months  of 
April,  May,  and  June  are  the  hardest  of  the  season.  The  snow- 
is  melting,  ophthalmia  attacks  the  deer-hunters,  and  the  winter's 
store  of  food  is  nearly  or  quite  gone.  In  May  the  geese  and 
ducks  arrive.  The  fish-traps  are  carried  away  by  the  rising  water 
in  the  rivers,  and  few  have  sufficient  ammunition  to  supply  them- 
selves with  wild  fowl  for  many  weeks.  The  inen  take  their  canoes 
and  ascend  the  small  rivers,  as  soon  as  the  ice  breaks  up  and  the 
freshets  drive  the  beaver  out  of  their  winter  houses.  For  a  week 
or  two  they  support  themselves  in  this  way,  and  then  those  who 
have  been  successful  in  trapping  start  for  Nuklukahyet  to  trade. 
There  they  find  the  moose  and  deer  driven  by  the  mosquitoes 
into  the  river,  where  they  may  b^^  killed,  iicars  leave  their  winter 
quarters,  and  their  meat  occasionally  adds  to  the  spring  supply 


^1 


^:l 


THE  YUKON   TERRITORY. 


20 1 


;  mountain, 
hillside. 


n  wide  popu- 
vho  measures 
by  the  simple 

m  among  the 
ig,  single-bar- 
son  Bay  Com- 
lie  same  time 
Grantley  Har- 
small  Belgian 
These  guns, 
and  the  Hud- 

:he  Innuit,  still 
;ar  being  much 
greater  or  less 

2  with  nature, 
Dry  is  ever  un- 
md  closing  of 
The  months  of 
on.     The  snow 
nd  the  winters 
the  geese  and 
he  rising  water 
o  supply  them- 
ke  their  canoes 
laks  up  and  the 
For  a  week 
[hen  those  who 
ahyet  to  trade. 

he  mosquitoes 
|ve  their  winter 

spring  supply 


of  food.  The  women,  and  such  of  the  men  as  remain  at  home, 
are  busy  making  nets  and  seines  from  the  inner  bark  of  the  wil- 
low and  alder.  The  wood  for  the  summer  fish-traps  is  also  pre- 
pared, and  the  baskets  and  other  parts  of  the  trap  are  tied  to- 
gether, ready  for  use.  On  the  Lower  Yukon  the  eggs  of  wild 
fowl  are  obtained  in  sufficient  numbers  to  furnish  a  partial  means 
of  subsistence.  This  is  also  the  season  for  making  birch  canoes. 
Early  in  June  the  king  salmon  {Kahthl  of  the  Ingaliks,  or  cho- 
wichee  of  the  Russians)  begin  to  ascend  the  river.  After  the 
middle  of  July  only  stragglers  of  this  species  are  caught.  The 
chowi'chee  are  followed  by  two  or  three  other  kinds,  and  the 
salmon  fishery  is  well  over  about  the  end  of  August.  During 
this  period  most  of  the  Indians  are  on  the  river,  fishing,  splitting, 
and  drying  the  fish  for  winter  use.  Some  are  smoked,  but  the 
greater  part  are  simply  dried  in  the  sun.  They  have  no  salt,  and 
never  use  it,  even  when  it  might  be  procured  from  the  Russians. 
In  consequence  many  of  the  likali  have  a  tainted  flavor.  White- 
fish  are  caught  and  dried  at  the  same  time  as  the  salmon,  but  are 
smaller,  and  not  so  extensively  fished  for.  They  are  most  plenty 
and  in  their  best  condition  in  September.  In  the  latter  part  of 
October  the  ice  puts  a  stop  to  fishing,  until  it  is  strong  enough  to 
set  the  winter  traps.  In  August  many  Indians  repair  to  the  hills, 
where  the  reindeer  are  in  prime  condition,  fat,  and  less  timid  than 
at  other  seasons.  The  fawns  are  also  large  enough  to  m,  i<e  their 
skins  of  use.  Moose  are  very  rare  on  the  Yukon  below  Koyii- 
kuk.  In  August  the  young  geese  are  fledged,  but  cannot  yet  fly, 
as  their  wing-featheis  are  not  fully  grown.  The  old  ones  have 
also  moulted,  and  many  of  both  kinds  are  caught  in  nets.  In 
October  and  November  the  white  grouse  have  returned  to  the 
willow  thickets  on  the  river,  where  they  are  snared  by  hundreds. 
In  December  the  winter  fish-traps  are  put  down,  and  some  deer- 
hunting  is  done  on  the  mountains.  Trapping  begins  in  October; 
before  that,  the  furs  are  worthless.  In  December  .id  January, 
trading  commences  with  the  Innuit  for  oil  and  seuiskin.  In  Feb- 
ruary and  March  the  fish-traps  and  snares  for  grouse  and  rabbits 
are  their  principal  reliance.  In  the  latter  part  of  March  the 
starving  season  sets  in  again.  By  some  tribes.  April  is  called  the 
"hunger  month."  In  IV^ay,  rabbits  are  very  pi'^ntiful  for  a  week 
or  two,  when  the  wild  fowl  arrive  in  millions,  and  the  yearly  round 
is  completed. 


202 


THE   YUKON   TERRITORY. 


The  Koyukun  and  Ingalik  names  for  women  generally  end  in 
"il'no"  as  Tdllo-ilno,  "dashing  water,"  &c.  The  names  of  men 
frequently  end  in  "ala"  as  Kiisko-kdla,  "he  who  strikes,"  &c., 
but  are  not  so  regular  in  their  terminations  as  the  female  names. 
With  the  Kutchin  the  father  takes  his  name  from  his  child,  not 
the  child  from  the  father  as  with  us.  Thus,  Kzv(fe-cch-ct  may  have 
a  son  and  call  him  Sdh-nu.  The  father  then  takes  the  name 
Sah-nu-tec,  and  his  former  name  is  forgotten.  Sometimes  the 
mother  will  drop  her  name,  and  be  called  Sah-nu-bc-han,  or  Sah- 
nu's  mother.*  The  same  practice  obtains  among  the  Indian 
tribes  to  the  south,  as  the  Koloshes;  but  the  western  Tinneh  are 
without  it. 

In  war,  when  a  Kutchin  Indian  kills  his  adversary,  he  cuts  all 
his  joints.  They  are  governed  by  the  same  chiefs  in  peace  and 
war.  The  authority  of  a  chief  is  very  limited  ;  the  Indians  are 
very  unruly,  and  indisposed  to  submit  to  authority.  The  chiefs 
are  chosen  on  account  of  their  wisdom,  wealth,  or  courage,  and 
not  on  account  of  birth.  They  have  no  insignia  of  office,  and 
only  such  privileges  as  they  can  take  ;  none  that  the  others  can 
withhold  from  them.  This  undeniable  fact  has  been  universally 
ignored  in  the  dealings  of  the  I'nited  States  Government  with  the 
Indians. 

The  chiefa  and  old  men  are  all  who  are  entitled  to  speak  in 
council ;  but  most  young  men  will  not  hesitate  to  rise  and  give 
their  elders  the  benefit  of  their  wisdom.  Among  the  Han  Kut- 
chin a  metal  ring  is  sometimes  used  in  the  nose  instead  of  the 
dentalium  ornament  of  the  western  Tinneh.  Among  the  eastern 
Tinneh  the  women  are  literally  beasts  of  burden  ;  but  they  have 
the  privilege  of  disposing  of  their  daughters  at  any  age ;  the  fathers 
and  brothers  having  no  voice  in  the  matter,  according  to  their 
customs.  They  have  the  singular  custom  of  net  cutting  the  nails 
of  girls  until  they  are  four  years  old.  The  reason  they  give  is, 
that,  if  they  did  so  earlier,  the  girl  when  grown  up  would  be  lazy, 
and  unable  to  embroider  in  porcupine  quills,  an  art  which  they 
carry  to  great  perfection.  The  children  are  seldom  weaned  until 
three  years  old.  They  arrive  at  the  age  of  puberty  at  about 
twelve  or  fourteen.     Some  of  the  women  reach  a  gieat  age;  one 

*  Vide  account  of  Kutchin  tribes  by  Strachan  Jones,  Esq.,  in  Smithsonian  Report, 
1866. 


m 


the 


1 

BBi'"'  - 1 

i 

THE   YUKON   TERRITORY. 


203 


at  Fort  Simpson  was  estimated  to  be  ninety-seven  years  old. 
The  eastern  Tinneh  and  Kutchin  tribes  far  surpass  the  western 
Tinnch  in  their  proficiency  with  the  needle,  and  in  their  love  for 
ornament.  The  latter  care  little  for  trinkets,  seldom  paint,  and 
will  barter  their  furs  only  for  tobacco  and  useful  articles.  This 
should  be  borne  in  mind  by  traders. 

Preparations  for  the  spring  shooting  soon  became  necessary. 
I  had  no  shot,  and  was  obliged  to  make  all  I  needed.  The  Rus- 
sians are  accustomed  to  hammer  lead  out  into  slender  bars,  to  cut 
these  in  small  cubes,  and  roll  them.  This  process  being  exceed- 
ingly laborious,  I  hit  upon  another  plan.  I  took  a  piece  of  walrus 
tusk  and  planed  it  off  until  it  was  about  half  an  inch  thick,  flat 
on  each  side,  and  about  two  inches  wide  by  six  long.  Taking 
a  large  nail,  I  filed  the  point  and  rigged  a  "fiddle-bow  drill." 
With  this  I  bored  a  hole  about  three  eighths  of  an  inch  in 
diameter,  a  little  smaller  at  one  end  than  at  the  other.  I  then 
filed  off  a  little  more  of  the  point  and  bored  another  hole  a 
little  smaller,  and  repeated  the  process  until  the  last  hole  was 
about  the  diameter  of  a  duck-shot.  I  ran  my  lead  into  small 
bars,  and,  greasing  them  well,  wire-drew  them  through  the  holes, 
beginning  with  the  largest.  The  result  was  lead  wire  of  the 
diameter  required.  This  was  cut  up  into  pieces,  each  piece 
as  long  as  the  diameter  of  the  wire.  These  were  then  rolled 
with  a  little  ashes  in  an  iron  pan  under  a  flat  stone.  This  pro- 
duced shot  nearly  as  round  as  dropped  shot,  though  not  polished. 
In  this  way  I  manufactured  seventy  pounds  of  shot  of  difterent 
sizes,  which  answered  every  purpose.  It  was  a  work  of  great 
labor,  but  less  so  than  by  the  Russian  method.  A  man  can  make 
in  this  manner  ..ibout  three  pounds  in  a  day.  The  Russians  at  Nu- 
Idto  were  each  furnished  every  spring  with  five  pounds  of  lead 
and  half  a  pound  of  powder.  With  this  they  must  supply  them- 
selves with  game,  or  go  hungry.  The  same  practice  is  usual  at 
Fort  Yukon,  except  that  the  men  are  furnished  wit'i  manufactured 
shot. 

As  spring  approached,  we  made  leady  for  our  journey  to  the 
Yukon-mouth.  The  collections  of  natural  history  grew  apace. 
Many  hundred  birdskins,  and  other  specimens,  were  brought 
together,  some  of  which  had  not  previously  been  collected.  On 
the  2ist  of  April,  Tekunka  paid  us  a  visit.     He  was  accompanied 


rrr 


ii!!  I.| 


r^ii  p 


I  ? 


lui 


I     4 


|:i 


fi 


:u 


204 


THE   YUKON   TERRITORY. 


by  all  the  Kaiyuh  Iiigaliks  who  were  returning  from  Ulukuk. 
While  sitting  peaceably  in  the  casarmer  he  was  insulted  and 
struck  by  Shabounin,  a  convict  from  Archangel  in  Russia,  who 
had  been  sent  to  Nukito  to  build  the  raft  on  which  the  Russians 
were  to  descend  in  the  spring.  I  heard  Kurdla  calling  to  I'avloti, 
in  the  yard,  that  Shabounin  was  killing  Tekunka.  I  rushed  into 
the  casarmer  at  once.  Tekunka  was  standing  on  one  side,  his 
face  bleeding,  and  hurling  defiance  in  good  Russian  at  his  assail- 
ant. The  Russians  were  huddled  in  one  corner,  unarmed,  and 
cowed  by  the  crowd  of  Ingaliks,  each  with  his  hand  on  his  gun, 
which  half  filled  the  room.  Sure  of  his  power,  though  himsclt 
unarmed,  Tekunka  did  not  spare  his  tongue.  He  told  them  that 
he  held  their  lives  in  his  hand.  "  A  word,"  said  he,  "  and  my 
men  wash  this  floor  with  your  blood.  You  call  us  '  dogs  of  In- 
dians!' We  know  what  you  are,  —  murderers,  thieves,  and  out- 
laws, driven  from  Russia  for  your  crimes  !  Yet  >v-u  come  to  our 
country  and  abuse  us  without  reason,  take  away  our  daughters, 
and  pay  us  with  a  leaf  of  tobacco  for  furs  which  you  cannot  trap 
yourselves!  Why  should  I  not  avenge  this  unprovoked  insult? 
Why  do  I  not  order  my  men  to  exterminate  you  like  vermin  ? 
Because  I  had  rather  stand  here  and  tell  you  in  your  own  casarmer 
that  I  hate,  despise,  and  defy  you  !" 

Pavloff  now  entered,  and  was  called  upon  to  redress  the  injury, 
which  he  did  sullenly  and  reluctantly.  Shabounin  was  rebuked 
before  the  Indians  for  his  conduct,  and  a  present  of  tobacco  and 
ammunition  was  made  to  Tekunka,  who  received  it  with  uncon- 
cealed disdain.  The  Indians  .slowly  left  the  room,  and  I  followed 
them.  They  took  their  baggage  and  sleds,  and  left  the  fort.  It 
is  very  seldom  that  such  an  exhibition  of  spirit  is  seen  among 
these  Indians,  but  Tekunka  was  unusually  intelligent,  and  had 
worked  in  the  fort  among  the  Russians  when  young.  It  must 
also  be  said  that  such  an  outrage  on  the  part  of  any  Russian 
had  never  before  occurred  at  Nulato,  and  probably  very  seldom 
anywhere. 

On  the  iith  of  Ajiril  the  first  swallows  appeared,  and  on  the 
27th  Kun'lla  earned  the  pound  of  tobacco  by  killing  the  first 
goose  of  the  season. 

The  Russian  raft  was  well  under  way,  and  was  a  clumsy 
concern,  shaped   like   a  flat-iron,  and  provided  with   high  bul- 


n 


th 
di 
ni 
i    nil 


THE   YUKON   TERRITORY. 


205 


from  Ulukuk. 
s  insulted  and 
in  Russia,  wlio 
h  the  Russians 
tiling  to  I'avloff, 

I  rushed  into 
n  one  side,  his 
lan  at  his  assail- 
r,  unarmed,  and 
and  on  his  gun, 
though  himscll 

told  them  that 
d  he,  "  and  my 
us  'dogs  of  In- 
hieves,  and  oiit- 
y^u  come  to  our 

our  daughters, 
you  cannot  trap 
irovoked  insult  ? 
Du  like  vermin  ? 
ur  own  casarmcr 

Iress  the  injury, 

in  was  rebuked 

of  tobacco  and 

it  with  uncon- 

and  I  followed 

eft  the  fort.     It 

is  seen  amonj; 

igent,  and  had 

)ung.     It  must 

|of  any  Russian 

ly  very  seldom 

|red,  and  on  the 
cilling  the  first 

iwas   a   clumsy 
Ivith   high  bul- 


warks, a  mast,  rudder,  or  rather  sweep,  and  a  sail.  They  informed 
me  that  it  was  after  the  pattern  of  the  rafts  on  which  timber  is 
floated  down  the  rivers  of  Russia  which  flow  into  the  Northern 
Sea. 

Meanwhile  the  skin  had  been  taken  ofT  our  little  bidarra,  well 
oiled,  repaired,  and  replaced.  The  must,  oars,  and  sail  were  manu- 
factured, as  well  as  an  enormous  j)addle,  which  Kun'lla,  in  his 
capacity  as  coxswain,  proposed  to  use  himself  The  Russian 
bidarra  was  made  ready  for  their  trading-voyage  to  Nuklukahyet. 
Johnny  would  accompany  them,  and  go  on  to  Fort  Yukon  with 
the  Indians.  lie  was  a  useful  little  fellow,  but  gratitude  or  af- 
fection formed  no  part  of  his  nature,  and  I  did  not  e.xpect  to  miss 
him  much. 

On  the  24th  of  May  the  Nukito  River  broke  up,  and  the  water 
and  ice  came  down  with  a  rush.  About  four  o'clock  in  the  after- 
noon the  ice  on  the  Yukon  moved  a  little,  and  then  stuck  fast. 
An  ice-barrier  fifteen  feet  high  formed  near  the  bluff  north  of 
NuLito.  This  remained  several  days  without  change.  On  the 
28th  I  went  up  to  the  Klat-kakhatnc  River,  and  crossed  in  an  old 
birch  canoe  which  I  found  there,  after  hewing  out  a  rough  paddle, 
and  leaving  my  axe  in  a  dry  log,  four  feet  above  the  water.  On 
the  other  side  the  beach  between  the  ice  and  the  high  perpen- 
dicular bluff  was  only  about  six  feet  wide.  I  collected  here  a 
number  of  interesting  fossils  which  had  been  uncovered  by  the 
melting  snow.  Suddenly  I  heard  a  crash,  and  the  water  began  to 
rise  very  rapidly.  The  barrier  had  broken,  and  I  had  to  run  to 
escape  being  crushed  between  the  bluff  and  the  enormous  blocks 
of  ice  which  the  rising  river  ground  against  it.  I  was  just  able 
to  keep  pace  with  the  water,  and  found  my  canoe  on  the  little 
point  quite  submerged.  On  the  other  side  the  log,  with  the  a.xe 
in  it,  was  floating  away  with  the  ice.  I  emptied  the  canoe,  and 
pa(klled  after  the  v.^e,  and  got  safely  ashore  on  the  Nukito  side. 
Here  I  stopped  awhile  and  enjoyed  the  sight.  Blocks  of  ice 
six  feet  thick  were  driven  against  the  bank,  cutting  off  large 
trees,  and  carrying  ice  and  turf  many  yards  inland.  In  some 
places  the  ice  was  piled  thirty  feet  high.  I  only  regretted  that 
niy  artist  companion  of  the  previous  year,  Mr.  Whymper,  was 
not  there  to  preserve  the  scene  with  his  ready  pencil.  The 
break-up  of  1867  was  nothing  to  it.     At  the  fort  the  ice  came 


206 


THE   YUKON   TERRITORY. 


I    :i 


close  to  the  bank.  A  little  more,  and  the  buildiiij^s  would  have 
been  in  danger.  Pavloff  said  that  he  had  seen  a  similar  freshet 
only  once  before  in  fifteen  years. 

The  barrier  being  removed,  the  water  soon  began  to  fall,  and 
left  the  great  blocks  and  piles  of  ice  stranded  all  along  the  beacli. 
There  was  hardly  room  to  land  a  boat  anywhere  near  the  fort. 

We  now  set  about  packing  up  in  earnest.  The  store  was  half 
full  of  goods,  which  I  could  not  carry  away.  The  bo.xes  of  collec- 
tions, with  our  baggage,  filled  the  bidarr.i.  She  was  a  little 
beauty,  well  shaped,  light,  and  elegant. 

The  season  was  very  late.  On  the  1st  of  June,  Pavloff  and  his 
men  left  for  Nuklukahyct.  The  river  was  full  of  ice,  and  Tekunka 
and  his  men  had  not  appeared  ;  so  I  was  still  delayed.  Johnny 
departed  with  the  Russians,  not  even  bidding  me  good  by,  al- 
though he  was  loaded  with  articles  which  I  had  given  him.  He 
had  letters  for  Mr.  McDougal,  the  Fort  Yukon  commander,  which 
I  took  pleasure  in  addressing  to  "  Fort  Yukon,  Alaska  Territory, 
United  States  of  Amcriea"  as  the  Scotchmen  had  insisted  against 
all  reason  that  the  post  was  situated  on  the  British  side  of  the 
line.  As  my  Indians  did  not  make  their  appearance,  I  secured 
Kuri'lla's  brother,  —  "Monday"  by  name,  as  he  was  engaged  on 
that  day,  —  and  determined  that,  if  Tekunka  failed  to  keep  his 
promise,  I  would  start  the  next  day,  and  trust  to  luck  to  obtain 
another  man  somewhere  on  the  river  below. 


nj)on 
had  a 
men. 
but  tl 
the  pi 
niothe 
to  go 
not  su 
On 
The  si 
and  th 
:  nailed 
post  as 
goods  \ 
The 


: 


would  have 
lilar  ficslict 

to  fall,  and 
'<■  the  beach. 

the  fort, 
jre  was  half 
jccs  of  collec- 
was  a  little 

ivloff  and  his 
md  Tekunka 
'cd.     Johnny 
good  by,  al- 
en  him.     He 
lander,  which 
ka  Territory, 
sistcd  against 
h  side  of  the 
ice,  I  secured 
^  engaged  on 
to  keep  his 
ick  to  obtain 


CHAPTER  VI. 

ncpaitiirc  from  Nulato.  —  Lateness  of  the  season.  —  Veto.  —  Kwikhtana  l>arrabora. 

—  Lofka's.  —  Habits  of  tlic  beaver.  —  Swan-shooting.  —  Indian  carvings.  —  First 
Iiuiians.  -  Klantilinten.  —  A  letter.  —  Meeting  with  the  Maiilemuts.  —  Anvik. — 
'I'lic  StarccK.  —  Pottery.  —  Sand-hill  cranes.  —  Canoes. —  Leather  village  on  the 
Sliageluk.  —  (Ircat  abundance  of  (ood.  —  Demand  for  liquor  by  the  .Nhdilenuits, — 
Dances.  —  Attack  and  narrow  escape.  —  Leave  the  village.  —  NLanki.  —  Lkogmuts. 

—  I.oon-cap  village.  —  Carvings,  old  houses  and  graves.  —  Oreat  breailth  of  the 
Lower  \'uUon.  —  Arrive  at  tlv  Mission.  —  I'ass  the  (Ireat  Hend.     I'ishing-village. 

—  Mvriails  of  wild  fowl.  —  Lnergctic  collection  of  specimens.  —  Kasbinik  village.  , 

—  Starry  Kwilhpak  village.  —  Obtain  a  guide. —  Andreafl'sUy.  —  Tragedy  in  1855. 

—  Mistake  of  guide.  —  Arrive  at  the  Uphoon.  —  Kutlik.  —  Emperor  geese.  —  Ar- 
rival of  Tcleezhik.  —  Go  on  to  I'astolik.  —  liehiga-hunting.  —  Innuit  carvings.  — 
Drawings  on    one.  —  Rise  of  the  water.  —  Llcphant  bones.  —  Start  for  the  Reiloubt. 

—  News  'f  the  ships.  —  Arrival  at  the  Redoubt,  and  meeting  with  old  friends. — 
—Traders.  —  Embarkation  for  California.  —  Abuses  prevalent  in  the  new  territory. 

—  Value  of  a  territorial  government. — Necessary  legislation.  —  Disparagement  of 
the  territory.  —  Arrival  in  San  Francisco. 

EVERYTHING  was  ready  for  our  departure.  The  bidarrd 
was  almost  transparent  from  the  oil  which  was  smeared 
upon  the  outside,  and  inside  it  was  as  dry  as  a  bone.  TOkunka 
iiatl  apparently  deceived  me.  There  were  no  signs  of  him  or  his 
men.  Long  e.xperience  had  inured  me  to  such  disappointments, 
but  there  were  few  Indians  at  Nulato,  and  it  was  difficult  to  fill 
llie  place  of  those  whom  I  had  expected.  By  giving  to  Monday's 
mother  all  the  likali  and  oil  which  were  left  over,  I  induced  him 
to  go  with  me,  as  the  old  woman,  with  these  provisions,  would 
not  suffer  from  hunger  before  his  return. 

On  the  morning  of  the  2d  of  June  everything  was  put  aboard. 
The  supplies  which  I  left  behind  were  put  into  the  storehouse, 
and  the  door  fastened  with  a  padlock  and  chain  and  then  securely 
nailed  up.  The  Koyiikuns  were  already  threatening  to  burn  the 
post  as  soon  as  the  Russians  left  it,  but,  in  case  they  did  not,  the 
goods  I  left  behind  might  prove  of  some  use  to  somebody. 

The  beach  in  front  of  the  fort  was  covered  with  larg-e  blocks  of 


Mi 

j  ■  ;( 

;    'I 

;  'I 


s  ..I : 
I'M 


3  II 


,; '  t!  l| 


I  t 


I' 


i 


rl  '^ ' 


I  I 


i  j 


i 


208 


THE  YUKON  TERRITORY. 


ice,  and  the  quantity  of  ice  in  trie  river  was  much  greater  than 
usual  for  the  time  of  year.  We  pushed  off  with  some  difficulty, 
on  account  of  the  low  water,  and  finally  reaching  the  channel, 
took  a  last  look  at  the  old  fort  of  Nulato.  The  day  was  cloudy 
and  cold,  with  a  head-wind.  Not  a  mosquito  had  yet  shown 
himself,  a  fact  which  proved,  more  than  anything  else,  the  un- 
common lateness  of  the  season.  Our  little  company  consisted  of 
myself,  Kun'lla,  Monday,  and  a  little  foxy  Koyukun  dog  called 
Bushy,  which  was  my  especial  pet.  The  stars  and  stripes  and 
the  scallop  of  the  Scientific  Corps  floated  from  the  mast,  which 
was  also  decorated  with  a  broad-tailed  arrow  ornamented  with  a 
blue  muslin  fly.  I  took  the  stroke  oar  and  Monday  the  bow,  as 
Kun'Ua's  skill  was  needed  to  avoid  the  numerous  floating  cakes  of 
ice  in  the  rapid  current.  I  found  that  my  sickness  hud  unfitted 
me  for  severe  labor,  and  after  a  few  hours  I  changed  places  with 
Kun'lla. 

The  river  presented  a  very  different  appearance  from  that  of 
the  previous  year,  when  we  started  up  the  Yukon.  Now  large 
blocks  of  ice  were  piled  up  on  the  shores,  where  they  had  been 
driven  by  the  first  high  water;  no  weather  had  yet  occurred  warm 
enough  to  melt  them.  VVe  took  our  daily  tea  near  the  Shaman 
Bluff,  close  by  the  coal  seam,  and,  while  enjoying  our  meal,  Kun'lla 
was  quick  enough  with  his  gun  to  bring  down  a  mallard  which 
flew  overhead.  As  we  pulled  down  the  river  I  was  so  fortunate 
as  to  secure  a  pair  of  the  beautiful  Harlequin  duck  (//.  torqiiatus) 
which  flew  from  the  mouth  of  a  small  stream.  This  elegant  duck 
is  very  shy  and  solitary  v\  its  habits,  preferring  the  small  streams 
which  wind  among  the  trees,  away  from  the  main  river.  We  saw 
no  T'.idians  on  the  banks,  as  the  fishing-season  had  not  com- 
menced. Late  in  the  evening  we  arrived  at  Kalt.ig,  and  camped 
on  the  left  bank.  The  ground  was  still  muddy  from  being  over- 
flowed, and  the  willow  leaves  were  still  folded.  At  the  Kaltag 
village  we  found  Matfay  and  his  family  from  Uliikuk.  They  pro- 
posed to  mul.e  a  trading-voyage  down  the  river  a  little  later  in 
the  season.  Big  Sidorka  was  also  there.  He  had  promised  to 
accompany  the  Russians  to  Nuklukahyet,  but  the  threats  of  the 
Koyiikuns  and  the  ice  in  the  river  had  caused  him  to  change  his 
mind.  He  was  now  very  anxious  to  go  down  the  Yukon  with  me, 
as  he  had  never  been  below  L6fka's  barrabora.     We  boiled  our 


s 


THE   YUKON   TERRITORY. 


209 


:h  greater  than 
some  difficulty, 
ig  the  channel, 
day  was  cloudy 
had  yet  shown 
ig  else,  the  un- 
my  consisted  of 
ikun  dog  called 
and  stripes  and 
the  mast,  which 
lamented  with  a 
(day  the  how,  as 
ioating  cakes  of 
ess  hud  unfitted 
ged  places  with 

ce  from  that  of 
on.     Now  large 
I  they  had  been 
t  occurred  warm 
;ar  the  Shaman 
>ur  meal,  Kuri'lla 
I  mallard  which 
,vas  so  fortunate 
{//.  torqiiatiis) 
is  elegant  duck 
e  small  streams 
river.     We  saw 
had   not  coni- 
ig,  and  camped 
om  being  over- 
t  the  Kaltiig 
ik.     They  pro- 
little  later  in 
d  promised  to 
threats  of  the 
to  change  his 
[ukon  with  me, 
|We  boiled  our 


^ 


ducks,  and  found  them  all  very  lean  and  tough  from  the  scarcity 
of  food.  The  horsetails  {Eqinsche),  on  which  they  feed,  had  hard- 
ly begun  to  show  themselves  above  the  mud. 

Wi'dncsday,  June  id.  —  As  there  was  little  prospect  of  obtain- 
insr  a  more  suitable  man  farther  down  the  river,  I  decided  to  let 
Sidorka  go  with  us.  His  Indian  name  was  Yeto,  and  by  that  we 
called  him.  The  brown  sandstones  on  the  right  bank  cease  at 
Kaltag,  and  below  is  a  long  stretch  of  gravel  banks,  and  then 
gray  sandstones  and  shales  with  very  poor  vegetable  remains. 
At  the  village  near  the  bluffs  below  Kaltag  there  were  a  few 
Indians.  Here  I  bought  half  a  dozen  martens  for  a  few  loads  of 
powder  and  ball.  The  wind  kept  obstinately  ahead,  and  impeded 
our  progress  a  good  deal.  We  took  tea  near  the  mouth  of  the 
Kaiyuh  River.  The  left  bank  of  the  Yukon  appears  to  be  gener- 
ally low,  with  hills  in  the  distance.  The  right  bank  is  always  the 
higher,  and  the  river  seems  to  run  on  the  right  side  of  a  broad 
valley,  of  which  the  bluffs  on  the  right  bank  and  the  distant  hills 
on  the  left  form  the  boundaries.  The  vegetation  resembles  that 
farther  up  the  river,  but  here  the  willows  and  poplars  attain  a 
larger  growth.  We  pitched  the  tent  on  the  banks  of  a  small 
creek,  where  the  level  dry  ground  formed  an  excellent  camp- 
ing-place. There  were  the  remains  of  many  old  Indian  camps 
here,  and  we  saw  a  large  number  of  sand-hill  cranes,  besides 
adding  to  our  collection  a  specimen  of  the  beautiful  purple  sand- 
piper. 

Thursday,  Atth.  —  I  rose  very  early,  and  taking  my  gun,  went  to 
a  pool  near  by,  where  I  got  a  shot  at  a  swan,  but  failed  to  bring  it 
down.  By  patient  waiting  I  finally  succeeded  in  getting  a  brace 
of  green-winged  leal,  which  are  the  best  eating  of  any  of  the 
v.ater-fowl  found  on  the  Yukon.  The  mosquitoes  were  abundant 
hero,  as  the  location  was  warm  and  sunny,  and  I  .soon  awoke  the 
Indians  by  raising  a  corner  of  their  tent  and  giving  the  preda- 
ccous  insects  access  to  the  interior.  The  sun  shone  brightly,  and 
the  day  was  most  beautiful.  We  soon  pushed  off  and  continued 
on  our  way.  We  passed  through  a  number  of  sloughs,  and 
stopped  at  several  of  the  islands  to  shoot.  On  many  of  them 
small  lagoons  exist,  and  on  these  the  water-fowl  congregate  early 
in  the  morning  to  feed.  We  obtained  quite  a  number  of  brant 
and  several  ducks.  A  downy  owl  {Bmcliyoins  Cassini)  flew  out 
14 


n^^ 


2IO 


THE   YUKON   TERRITORY. 


y 


from  a  thicket  and,  prol^ably  impelled  by  curiosity,  followed  the 
boat  at  a  short  distance  for  nearly  a  mile.  The  superstitions  of 
the  Indians  were  exci»^ed,  and  they  finally  shot  the  bird,  which  fell 
in  the  water  and  continued  to  follow  us,  carried  by  the  current, 
even  in  death. 

The  alder  buds  were  just  opening,  and  the  tender  leaves  began 
to  appear.  About  ten  o'clock,  passing  through  a  small  pratoka. 
we  saw  on  a  gently  rising  mound  a  white  Greek  cross.  This 
spot,  according  to  Kuri'lla,  was  the  place  where  the  boat  for 
Nulato  with  goods  from  the  Redoubt  was  onr-^  caught  by  the  ice 
and  frozen  in.  The  crew  built  a  house  and  wintered  here.  They 
called  it  Kwikhtana  barrabora  or  Cold  Hou-se,  from  the  extreme 
cold  which  they  suftered.     One  of  them,  who  died,  was  buried  on 


WSSSs 


Silt"  i>r  KwiklUaiin  b.irrabom. 


I  , 


this  mound,  where  the  cross  marks  his  resting-place.  Game  was 
scarce,  and  we  were  obliged  to  be  economical  with  our  stores. 
For  dinner  we  boiled  three  geese  and  a  duck  in  the  big  kettle.  I 
usually  made  away  with  the  duck  and  a  pltitc  of  soup,  beside  tea 
and  sukaree,  while  the  Indians  never  failed  to  clean  out  the 
kettle,  leaving  only  the  bones,  which  were  the  dog's  perquisite. 
In  the  afternoon  we  crossed  the  river  to  a  slough  which  Kuri'lla 
said  was  a  short  cut ;  but  after  going  a  little  way  the  wind  was  so 


a 


followed  the 
perstitions  of 
irtl,  which  fell 
I  the  current, 

leaves  began 
mall  pratoka. 
cross.  This 
the  boat  for 
ht  by  the  ice 

I  here.     They 

II  the  extreme 
a'as  buried  on 


Game  was 
[h  our  stores. 
Ibig  kettle.  I 
lip,  beside  tea 
llean  out  the 
I's  perquisite, 
/hich  Kurilla 
wind  was  so 


THE   YUKON   TERRITORY. 


21  I 


strong  and  dead  ahead  that  I  determined  to  turn  b:ck  and  go  by 
the  main  river,  where  we  were  sheltered  by  the  high  bank.  We 
saw  many  fresh  tracks  of  the  black  bear  along  the  muddy  shore. 
Crossing  again,  we  continued  along  the  righ.t  bank,  which  in  some 
places  is  composed  of  trachytic  rocks  of  different  colors.  These 
do  not  rise  to  any  great  height,  and  are  soft  and  crund)Iing. 
Yellow,  red,  green,  blue,  and  all  transitions  from  black,  through 
gray,  to  white  were  observed.  Toward  evening  we  approached 
the  Yakutz  !:  latenik  River,  at  the  mouth  of  which  is  an  Indian 
house  in  a  very  dilapidated  condition.  This  is  known  as  Lofka's 
barrabora.      It  had    a   melancholy  appearance   in    the   twilight. 


Lolk.i's  b.ur.ibiir.i 

being  deserted  and  falling  into  ruins.  We  decided  to  camp  here. 
As  we  pulled  toward  the  beach,  a  large  otter  started  from  among 
the  willows  and  ran  along  the  shore.  We  b  ul  brought  along  a 
small  canoe  made  of  three  boards,  and  Kuri'lla  hastily  jumped  into 
this  and  made  for  the  beach.  He  landed,  but  the  otter  was  too 
quick  for  him  ;  it  plunged  into  the  water  near  the  river  and  dis- 
appeared. We  put  up  the  tent,  boiled  the  chynik,  and  retired  to 
rest.     The  rain,  which  soon  came  on,  did  not  disturb  us,  as  every- 


jM 


15     '  ^:' 


212 


THE  YUKON    TERRITORY. 


thing  had  been  put  ashore  and  covered  with  the  bidarra  before 
we  had  turned  in. 

Friday,  ^th.  —  The  rain  had  ceased  about  four  o'clock  in  the 
morning,  and  it  had  cleared  off  finely.  A  stroll  along  the  banks 
of  the  small  river  revealed  many  fresh  beaver-tracks.  The 
beaver,  when  forced  to  leave  his  house  by  the  spring  freshets, 
which  fill  it  with  water,  seeks  his  living  along  the  banks  of  the 
small  rivers,  until  the  waters  subside.  He  is  a  gregarious  and 
playful  animal,  fond  of  gymnastics  for  their  own  sake.  When  he 
finds  a  steep,  smooth  mud-bank,  he  usually  amuses  himself  by 
crawling  up  and  then  sliding  off  into  the  water,  repeating  the 
process  many  times,  apparently  enjoying  the  fun  as  much  as 
boys  do  coasting.  He  is  nocturnal  in  his  habits,  and  very  timid. 
Taking  the  small  canoe,  Kun'lla  paddled  patiently  up  and  down, 
making  as  little  noise  as  possible,  and  scanning  the  water  near 
the  banks  for  the  beaver's  nose.  This  is  the  only  part  visible, 
the  rest  being  below  the  surface.  A  crack,  followed  by  a  shout, 
told  that  my  old  Scotch  rifle  had  done  its  wcrk,  aud  Kun'lla  soon 
appeared  in  triumph,  bearing  a  small  beaver.  The  flesh  of  this 
animal  is  to  most  persons  disagreeable.  A  slight  odor  and  flavor 
which  accompany  it  frequently  produce  nausea  with  those  un- 
accustomed to  it.  I  never  ate  the  meat,  but  the  paws  and  tail  I 
found  very  good.  The  former  are  covered  with  a  black  skin,  with 
only  a  little  hair  near  the  junction  with  the  arm  or  leg;  when 
thoroughly  boiled  they  resemble  pigs'  feet.  The  tail  is  composed 
of  muscular  fibre  containing  a  large  amount  of  a  peculiarly  sweet 
fat  in  the  interstices.  The  skin  which  covers  the  tail  has  the  ap- 
pearance of  scales,  but  there  are  no  real  scales.  The  skin  readily 
peels  off  if  scorched  in  the  fire,  and  the  tail,  when  well  boiled,  is  a 
delicious  morsel.  The  muscles  and  inner  skin  are  reduced  by 
boiling  to  a  kind  of  jelly,  and  the  whole  is  so  rich  that  one  cannot 
eat  much  of  it.  The  castoreum,  which  is  used  in  medicine,  is 
contained  in  two  glands  which  open  near  the  tail.  Their  use  is 
not  clearly  understood,  but  is  probably  similar  to  that  of  the 
musk  glands  in  the  muskrat  and  muskdeer.  A  favorite  amuse- 
ment among  the  Kutchin  Indians  consists  in  taking  the  humerus 
in  the  hands  and  endeavoring  to  break  it  ;  as  it  is  very  short  and 
strong,  this  requires  considerable  strength.  After  skinning  the 
beaver,  and  stretching  the  skin  on  a  hoop  of  green  willow,  we 


Mi 


THE   YUKON   TERRITORY. 


213 


darra  before 

clock  in  the 
ng  the  banks 
racks.      The 
ring  freshets, 
banks  of  the 
egarious  and 
e.     When  he 
IS  himself  by 
repeating  the 
as  much  as 
d  very  timid, 
up  and  down, 
lie  water  near 
J  part  visible, 
;d  by  a  shout, 
Kuri'Ua  soon 
;  flesh  of  this 
dor  and  flavor 
dth  those  un- 
iws  and  tail  I 
lack  skin,  with 
or  leg;  when 
1  is  composed 
culiarly  sweet 
il  has  the  ap- 
e  skin  readily 
lell  boiled,  is  a 
e  reduced  by 
at  one  cannot 
medicine,  is 
Their  use  is 
lo  that  of  the 
:vorite  amuse- 
the  humerus 
ery  short  and 
skinning  the 
len  willow,  we 


pushed  off.  The  wind  was,  as  usual,  dead  ahead  and  very  strong. 
Although  aided  by  the  current,  wc  had  hard  work  to  make  head- 
way against  it.  Blowing  against  the  stream,  it  raised  quite  a  sea 
on  the  broad  river,  and  as  our  gunwale  was  only  four  inches 
above  the  water,  we  found  it  necessary  to  keep  close  in  shore. 
We  stopped  to  rest  several  times,  and  arriving  near  a  broad,  shal- 
low lagoon,  we  went  ashore,  and  creeping  behind  the  willows, 
tried  to  get  a  shot  at  some  of  the  water-fowl  which  were  feeding 
there.  My  favorite,  of  seven  guns,  was  a  Scotch  rifle,  which  had 
been  bored  out  so  that  it  carried  shot  as  well  as  ball.  It  was  re- 
markably long  in  range,  and  very  true.  The  ball  which  I  used  with 
it  was  a  long  conical  one,  weighing  an  ounce  and  a  quarter.  One 
of  these  was  quite  enough  to  bring  down  anything  which  it  hit. 
Loading  with  buckshot,  I  waited  for  Kurilla,  who  had  gone  to  the 
other  end  of  the  lagoon,  where  several  swans  were  gracefully 
seated  in  the  water.  The  report  of  his  fowling-piece,  which 
brought  down  a  couple  of  brant,  roused  the  swans  from  their 
reveries ;  and  striking  the  \.  .ter  with  their  broad  wings,  they  rose 
slowly  and  sailed  through  the  air  in  single  file  toward  my  hiding- 
place.  They  arc  not  rapid  flyers,  and  I  could  count  every  sweep 
of  their  strong  white  wings.  As  they  followed  one  another,  ut- 
tering their  harsh  cry  at  intervals,  their  heads  and  necks  in  a 
straight  line,  they  looked  anything  but  graceful,  and  would  hardly 
be  recognized  as  the  same  birds  so  lately  seated  on  the  water. 
Just  before  getting  in  range,  they  most  provokingly  changed  their 
course  and  struck  out  across  the  Yukon ;  so  I  had  my  trouble  for 
my  pains. 

Before  returning  to  the  boat  I  secured  a  mallard  and  a  white- 
fronted  goose,  to  which  the  Indians  added  several  pintails,  and 
seven  brant,  so  that  our  larder  was  well  supplied.  Toward  even- 
ing we  began  to  look  for  a  camping-place,  but  everywhere  the 
shore  was  covered  with  great  blocks  of  ice,  some  distance  above 
the  water,  and  we  were  finally  obliged  to  haul  the  boat  up  on  a 
large  ice-sheet  which  was  grounded  on  a  sand-bar.  Mere  we 
cam[)ed,  and  a  most  uncomfortable  camp  it  was.  We  had  to 
travel  a  long  distance  to  obtain  driftwood  sufficient  to  make  a 
fire.  Sand  makes  the  hardest  bed  known  ;  fine  gravel  is  much 
more  comfortable.  The  mosquitoes  too,  though  not  abundant, 
were  by  no  means  idle.     Everything  along  the  river  showed  that 


)i 


I 


^; 


1^    ^ 


Mb\ 


214 


THE  YUKON   TERRITORY. 


it  was  an  unusually  late  season.  Few  small  birds  were  seen,  and 
no  butterflies  as  yet.  The  birch,  poplar,  and  willow  had  only  be- 
gun to  unfold  their  leaves,  while  on  the  north  slope  of  the  hills 
snow  still  rested. 

Saturday,  6th.  —  We  started  early,  and  pulled  against  the  same 
strong  wind.  We  landed  at  a  village  which  was  quite  deserted, 
the  inhabitants  being  away  after  beaver.  The  facility  in  carving, 
shown  by  the  Ingaliks  of  the  Lower  Yukon,  was  well  displayed 
here.  Paddles,  dishes,  and  other  articles  lay  scattered  about 
where  the  owners  had  left  them.  The  winter  houses  were  half 
full  of  water,  and  the  Indians  had  evidently  been  living  for  some 
time  in  three  large  summer  houses.  Among  other  things  lying 
about,  I  noticed  a  large  scoop  or  shovel  shaped  like  a  table-spoon, 
but  seven  feet  long.  It  was  carved  out  of  one  piece  of  wood, 
and  ornamented  with  designs  in  red  chalk  and  charcoal.  It  was 
of  very  graceful  shape,  and  had  evidently  been  used  for  throwing 
cut  the  ice  from  the  aperture  through  which  the  fish-traps  are 
raised  in  winter.  I  noticed  a  small  bowl  prettily  carved,  with  two 
ears  or  handles.  A  long  stick,  to  which  a  block  of  wood  is 
attached  at  one  end,  is  used,  with  tne  bowl  referred  to,  for  grind- 
ing up  tobacco  into  snufif.  My  InJians  were  anxious  to  appro- 
priate some  of  these  articles,  but  I  would  not  allow  them  to  do 
so  in  the  absence  of  the  owners.  The  paddles,  many  of  which 
were  seen,  were  curiously  painted  v\ith  green,  red,  and  black,  and 
were  smaller  and  more  pointed  than  those  in  use  farther  up  the 
river.  The  paddles  decrease  in  size  as  we  go  down  the  river; 
those  at  the  Yukon-mouth  are  very  small  and  narrow  indeed. 
We  passed  a  very  small  waterfall  during  the  day,  the  first  I  had 
seen  on  the  river. 

On  a  small  island  we  saw  the  first  Indians.  1  here  were  only 
three  or  four,  and  they  were  much  alarmed  when  they  first  saw 
us.  We  landed,  and  found  that  they  were  making  fish-traps. 
They  had  nothing  to  sell  except  some  eggs,  and  a  few  vikali, 
which  I  bought  for  the  dog.  After  making  them  a  present  of  a 
few  leaves  of  tobacco,  we  pushed  off  and  continued  down  the 
river. 

The  boat  was  ill  stowed,  and  a  good  deal  of  mud  had  gathered 
in  her  bottom  from  our  feet,  so  I  determined  to  camp  early,  turn 
her  over,  and  wash  her  thoroughly,  after  taking  out  the  goods. 


ds  were  seen,  and 
illovv  had  only  be- 
slope  of  the  hills 

against  the  same 
IS  quite  deserted, 
icility  in  carving, 
■s  well  displayed 
scattered   about 
houses  were  half 
1  living  for  some 
her  things  lying 
ic  a  table-spoon, 
piece  of  wood, 
harcoal.     It  was 
ed  for  throwinfr 
e  fish-traps  are 
:arved,  with  two 
nek  of  wood    is 
;d  to,  for  grind- 
xious  to  appro- 
ow  thcni  to  do 
nany  of  which 
and  black,  and 
farther  up  the 
own  the  river; 
1  arrow  indeed, 
the  first  I  had 


I 


lere  were  only 
they  first  saw 
ing  fish-traps. 
i  a  few  likali, 
a  present  of  a 
led   down  the 


had  gathered 
np  early,  turn 
4t  the  goods. 


hlliiltlll 


11 1 


I 


!     i 


I;   i 


\  .    il:! 


!  11! 

Miii 


THK  YUKON   TERRITORY. 


»f^ 


If? 

Ill  I:  II 


Mw 


hv- 


river 


'\othing  rots  a  l))darra  like  iimd  or  dirt  inside  of  it.     Wo  cam{y?d 

:  :\  small  brook,  and  Kiirdla  .started  oft  after  game,  while  we 

Tided  to  the  boat.     Wc  finished  cleaning  her  and  gave  her  a 

h\  oiling  before  getting  snpper  reiuly.     The  three  Indian?;  pol- 

•d   the  beaver's  bones,  while   1   regaled  myself  on   a  ful  teal 

•^ted  on  a  stick  liefore  the  ftre. 

Sunday,  ph.  —  The  day  opened  fair,  hul  with  the  same  wind, 

.h  was  soon  attended  by  smart  s.hiweis  of  rain.     \\  -v-  pnlled 

.g  shore,  and  abont  ten  o'elock  came  to  the  jjoint  where  the 

sians  hud  loeatcd  a  sort  of  rapid.     It  proved  (o  be  nothing 

e"  than  a  piece  of  swifr  M-.»ter,  roiining  along  Uie  baye  of  a 

.'.e  of  low  conglomerate  bh.iffs,  h>r  ?«■■»  or  three   miles,     The 

■.^r  here  was  quite   tr.oad  ;   to   thv:   iigr.r  ><«■'-«,;  succjssive  hiils, 

ing  one  afier  anotli-T,  and  •a'.iing  into  pM;('!c-  .'..  ■  *< ' 

•  ^rink  was,  as  usual,  low,  and  a  large  islnisd  uiviiird  jh<, 

■  iii  :.  beyond.     Kurilla  .saui  th:it  thv.  irtiuii   !>•!,- 

i.s  KlantUHn-toiy  meaning  "  n^ck.i  and  strong  WviU  ' 

*•  k'ih>ians  had  reported  a  coal  ^eani  here,  hut  the  rocks  are 

i:.rHte,  preceded   by   trachyte  of  various  colors,  and   ful- 

"V  i)-.-ds  of  cln\,  quartzite,  and  yellow  gravel. 

'.1.-^1  !!.<!  to  take  the  anne.ved  sketch,  tukI  to  examine  the  rocks. 

('oing,  an  arctic  hare  scampered  by  on  the  edge;  of  the 

!K.iifula  was  too  quick   for  lier,  however,  and  a  sh'U  from 

'  .'Tiught   her   down.     I  wa^  .■;orrv  at'terward,  wiicn  we 

oiimal,  to  see  that  the  teats  were  full  of  milk  ;   for  it 

•   -i)e  had,  soinewhi-re,  a  family  of  Utile  bunnies,  who 

.    and  j>robably  di..;  for  want  of  a  mother. 

-M  at  a  .^mail   ri\iilet  about  noon,  and  conchali.d  to 

■   :e  until  the  wind  till  someulu'.    We  scoured  the  small 

.  ^^R  liver  for  g.'niie,  at;'.!  came  back  to  camp  we:!!  loaded. 

he  wind  became  '-.-i-^  vi<>i'-nt,  arni  wc  j'ushed  a  little 

troam,  camping  A:  lUt  nine  o'clock. 

—  As  we  slowlv  •.Icscended  the  river,  we  saw  a  few 

•     '>J3*  bank.     They  aj>pt.-.ncd  to  bt;  shy.  and  indispored 

v.  >'^i  finally  one  of  t)v,ni  i>ut  ot'l   in  his  canoe,  and  e.\- 

^iA  f>aper  in  the  end  cf  a  long  cleft  stick.     I  took  it, 

paddled  av.  ly  as  fast  as  he  could.     It  was  a 

.  piiier,  carefuUv  fc/lded.     I  opened  it,  and  after 

^    H,;»npings  1  came  to  a  bit  of  while  paper,  ap- 


ill 


I 


•  * 


Ml 


ill)     '•        I  ,;. 


it 


1'     i<i«." 


,.^ 


:i^ 


i 


.^3  : 


■■:^'V. 


■i  ^y 


»-.•  -  ■  ..      '<> 


f- 


«;f, 


'f. 


.         .ii:* 

*\ 

^i 

■i 

"■': 

V  ....  "*■ 

11 


THE  YUKON  TERRITORY. 


215 


■     1-4^  *    ■.    ' 


''%^ 


■'*'■,■ 


Nothing  rots  a  bidarra  like  mud  or  dirt  inside  of  it.  We  camped 
near  a  small  brook,  and  Kun'lla  started  off  after  game,  while  we 
attended  to  the  boat.  We  finished  cleaning  her  and  gave  her  a 
good  oiling  before  getting  supper  read\".  The  three  Indians  pol- 
ished the  beaver's  bones,  w ,  le  I  regaled  myself  on  a  fat  teal 
roasted  on  a  stick  before  the  tire. 

Sunday,  yh.  —  The  day  opened  fair,  but  with  the  same  wind, 
which  was  soon  attended  by  smart  showers  of  rain.  We  pulled 
along  shore,  and  about  ten  oclock  came  to  the  point  where  the 
Russians  had  located  a  sort  of  rapid.  It  proved  to  be  nothing 
more  than  a  piece  of  swift  water,  running  along  the  base  of  a 
range  of  low  conglomerate  bluff's,  for  two  or  three  miles.  The 
river  here  was  quite  broad  ;  to  the  right  were  successive  hills, 
rising  one  after  another,  and  fading  into  purple  distance.  The 
left  bank  was,  as  usual,  low,  and  a  large  island  divided  the  river 
a  few  miles  beyond.  Kurilla  said  that  the  Indian  name  of  the 
|)lace  was  Klan-ii-ltu-icii,  meaning  "  rocks  and  strong  water." 

The  Russians  had  reported  a  coal  seam  here,  but  the  rocks  are 
conglomerate,  preceded  by  trachyte  of  various  colors,  and  fol- 
lowed by  beds  of  clay,  quartzite,  and  yellow  gravel. 

I  landed  to  take  the  annexed  sketch,  and  to  examine  the  rocks. 
While  so  doing,  an  arctic  hare  scampered  by  on  the  edge  of  the 
bluff.  Kun'lla  was  too  quick  for  her,  however,  and  a  shot  from 
my  rifle  brought  her  down.  I  was  sorry  afterward,  when  we 
skinned  the  animal,  to  see  that  the  teats  were  full  of  milk  ;  for  it 
showed  that  she  had,  somewhere,  a  family  of  little  bunnies,  who 
would  suffer  and  probably  die  for  want  of  a  mother. 

We  took  tea  at  a  small  rivulet  about  noon,  and  concluded  to 
remain  there  until  the  wind  fell  somewhat.  We  scoured  the  small 
lakes  near  the  river  for  game,  and  came  back  to  camp  well  loaded. 
.-\boat  sunset  the  wind  became  less  violent,  and  we  pushed  a  little 
farther  down  stream,  camping  about  nine  o'clock. 

Monday,  8t/i.  —  As  we  slowly  descended  the  river,  we  saw  a  few 
Indians  on  the  bank.  They  appeared  to  be  shy,  and  indisposed 
to  meet  us,  but  finally  one  of  them  put  off  in  his  canoe,  and  ex- 
tended a  bit  of  paper  in  the  end  of  a  long  cleft  stick.  I  took  it, 
and  he  immediately  paddled  away  as  fast  as  he  could.  It  was  a 
bit  of  yellow  tissue  paper,  carefully  folded.  I  opened  it,  and  after 
removing  several  wrappings  I  came  to  a  bit  of  white  paper,  ap- 


2l6 


THE  YUKON   TERRITORY. 


parently  the  blank  edge  of  a  newspaper.  On  this  was  a  rude 
drawing  of  a  boat,  by  its  side  a  bottle,  and  under  the  drawing,  in 
a  straggling  hand,  was  written,  "  Isaac  Koliak," 

The  meaning  was  evident.  My  intelligent  Mahlemut  friend 
had  crossed  the  portage  from  the  seaboard  to  Anvi'k,  not  far  be- 
low on  the  Yukon,  and  was  going  down  the  Yukon  on  a  trading- 
voyage.  He  knew  I  was  coming  down  the  river,  and  sent  this 
note  by  one  of  the  river  Indians  to  inform  me  of  his  proximity. 
We  passed  the  northern  entrance  of  the  great  Shageluk  slough, 
and  continued  down  the  main  stream  toward  Anvi'k.  There  were 
numerous  large,  well-wooded  islands,  and  the  mouth  of  the  slough 
might  easily  be  overlooked.  A  little  later  we  saw  a  camp  on  the 
right  bank,  and,  pulling  toward  it,  soon  recognized  Isaac  and  his 
party.  They  received  us  with  the  most  lively  demonstr.-itions  of 
welcome,  and  declared  their  intention  of  going  down  the  river 
with  us.  The  party  comprised  about  thirty  Mahlemuts,  male  and 
female,  and  their  children  and  dogs.  Isaac  told  mc  that  he  had 
crossed  from  Kegiktowruk  late  in  the  spring,  with  three  large 
bidarnis  on  sleds  drawn  by  dogs,  and  had  descended  the  Anvik 
River  after  the  ice  had  broken  up.  His  intention  was  to  descend 
the  Yukon,  trading  as  he  went,  and  to  meet  the  American  traders 
who  were  expected  at  St.  Michael's  in  the  early  summer.  The 
articles  which  they  had  brought  for  trade  were  principally  skin 
clothing  of  their  own  manufacture,  needles,  tobacco,  guns,  andani- 
munition.  They  proposed  to  buy  furs,  and  woodci.  dishes  or  kaii- 
tdgs,  of  Indian  manufacture.  The  Innuit  are  accustomed  to  make 
these  voyages  for  the  purpose  of  getting  rid  of  their  old  guns  and 


Kantags  and  wooden  ladle. 


surplus  ammunition,  at  prices  much  higher  than  they  pay  for  new 
ones  to  the  traders  at  Grantley  Harbor  and  Kotzebue  Sound. 
The  wooden  ware  is  an  article  of  trade  with  the  Innuit  of  Bering 
Strait,  where  wood  suitable  for  the  purpose  does  not  grow.    I 


IS  was  a  rude- 
he  drawing,  in 

hlemut   friend  I 
'I'k,  not  far  bo- 
on a  tradinir-l 
and  sent  thi.> 
his  iiroximitv. I 
igeliik  slough, 
.    There  were  i 
of  the  slough  I 
I  camj)  on  tin 
Isaac  and  his 
anstrp.tions  of 
)wn  the  river 
uts,  male  and 
c  that  he  had 
1  three  large 
ed  the  Anvik 
as  to  descend 
;rican  traders 
immer.     'Jhe 
ncipally  skin 
:uns,  andani- 
ishes  or  kan- 
med  to  make 
old  guns  and 


pay  for  new 
hue  Sound. 
it  of  Bering 
Dt  grow,    I 


hi! 


i 


I'!    ! 


\  ■ 


ANVIK     STAREEK. 
"One  more  leaf  of  lobacco." 


■Jf -?  it    ■ 


THL    vrK.ON    rf.RKiTORV. 


i  i 


>k    f ^<rK  on  lioatd   a^  a  passenger,  wliile  hi;i  pa'ly  ■:;>>!  tlicir 
;i' •   icily  to   ("lU.nv   ts  to  ;\iivik. 

'\"    'v-aciicd   iiie  moinh  "t"  ihc  Anvik  K'.vv  ahou);  noon,  and 

'rii    ij)  the  ';tr(\'im  fin   :•.  slu^rt  distance,  tij  tin   j>oint  wlierc  the 

;;•;••■    i-?   situated.      Ilcre    [lOth    si<l'S  of  ihc   \'uki.ii   are   latlier 

'..      ''v/i    I'ai    below   they   bei-.rn--   i"\v  and   fill,     llv-   \.ik..'ii 

;       \ni\  here  a  ■■..■ri-.-t;  ot  >:W'',  *  ir'>  lM'Us,  \v;iieh  is  the  In  si  ob- 

-  '.•'.)i\    ti:-;    r'V'jr   froii)    llie    si  a. 
■  ,    V. •.■;-.  t'nv.  a  Maliwi..   y,':['A  ■   m 


ti:>   ".Kivi;:;ation    as   wc 
'.rs  eh  iiii^r    .i-mc^vliai 
'  ■:  tout    cIi;M:n<'l   dui  ;o:. 


(.  \'. 


sl.a; 


.\iivi'k 


l.■^  a  l:u 


;ii  ■  I 


lie  Wii   r   HI 


n':i...rs, 


•  lie  ti''.i!)'  n if.  ,taiil 


1  ■■''..:   i.a'  ;m      aj'- 


,K^  ''I   Mv,   fi.  ist,  thi  V  .i.r  , 


-!n/!ia/<*  ->;>  ■;.  ,o    j      '  ■*■     in.r    1 


iiiuii'.  wor  is.  .  vi. ..  jit     ,1   -li 
"ii    the\   uhtai;;  ir'.'iT  t'  .    mi 


I  .l!'-       ll'L 


t'.i  u 


nil" 


!■  d 


lan  name;-       \  i  ii 


I  il'lifli   <  1  111   ,  Ui 

[li  li  .;.ruages  is  used  iii  tr  idiuv,. 


,1.    I.I,  .ll.M'I.K- 


!■';•■■  with  die    Riisdai:  V  ^vl.o  cud.,  i  .umd  :-o'-^!'-;hm'':  n; 


I  ;.!'i  I. 


:is.     Thih  fael  i-  a 


uiii'itm 


1  n:  \  iid  lu  th".';  diifercnt  'HaK 


C.U':ie   •  '1     nil    Of  'Ilipl  r  . 

d    .'ii'  iKi  be  '  .;r'!  ■  in 


i,d:il:S.      A   .sirail 


XV  iar'M>ii   IS   '•■,1   use   "■■  M  .  t  \  r\   1] 


»vi!u  d''    coast  tribe 


V    -h 


ik 


I 


;,  I ' ' )  1 1  s  (_i ! 


■'Ilk,   'VIM! 

ml.  rest,     "tin 


mr-ii    '  h' 


.enU'nUl 


.1'  '    iii.i 


.f    ( 


..,  'L'v  al, 


by   Isa.ic  to  d 


eieend  l^ 


'J. 


,  uil   mis'i. 


hi",    It 


!i\mc'.  ;   iv't  'ii; 


V  w  M  .itipe,';''.-d  vi  !i 


■lire  i";it'/ii    Iiiv  '■<'  . ■.•■'!  '  \i>  n-Ji,  'x^lncb  hi. 


r  tobaci  I)      '11 
\\<    pait     if  the 
'  .:.  ■    that  ii   \v;v' 


V  C       I 


I  -'I' 


av^v'i:   \"  i.f     V. 


1   :     Vvail'CO     !U.       1- 
;    •ica:^"!)  .ll";d    li.li 
I  li  >  [I  ;.  I    ,<     ■    :i! 


I  !> 


)  Ion;;  \--\ 
aoh  ■u-ii  IK 
•■:    hi   ,  !    i'     V 


1    11.  ■■   111' 


Ih'     !.H 


:K;    ,'i      '•( 


'I      lfl\  .'•  ,    ■!• 


lUii  n  '" '  A   iiialiM 


)  ^     ■  ■(. 


ilT'Od 


v-.c.  ■■'    I 


i/'i     !',.'t    ;'    1'.  >!    I  *    ''i\' 


Mi 

M     '1 

4  I 

-i:i 

■i    '■ 
1    ^ 

1  :'  'ji 

:i!;:i- 

i 


! 

1      1 

.H^M:-' 


.,'::'j-sHfi, 


fi 
L 


f 


„,.'':    -^ 

-*m 

*^^-:^.- 

- '^i'. 

\^  V 

K 

s  r  A  (■  f 

K 

I    , 

■r,rr\: 

\;x(.''  ,      „ 

tol 
b(i 

pu| 

vil 

hi;. 

witl 

>trJ 


I    ^"' 

"     the 

cai: 

IllL,^ 

Inn 

cusl 

\       uou 

THK   YUKON    TERRITORY. 


217 


took  Isaac  on  board  as  a  passenger,  while  his  party  got  their 
boats  ready  to  follovv  us  to  Anvi'k, 

We  reached  the  mouth  of  the  Anvi'k  River  about  noon,  and 
pulled  up  the  stream  for  a  short  distance,  to  the  point  where  the 
village  is  situated.  Here  both  sides  of  the  Yukon  are  rather 
high.  Not  far  below  they  become  low  and  flat.  The  Yukon 
widens,  and  here  a  series  of  sand-bars  exists,  which  is  the  first  ob- 
htruction  to  navigation  as  we  ascend  the  river  from  the  .sea. 
These  bars  change  somewhat  every  year,  but  a  native  pilot  can 
find  a  five-foot  channel  duruig  the  lowest  stage  of  the  water  in 
the  fall.  Anvi'k  is  a  large  village,  of  some  ten  or  twelve  houses, 
each  of  which  may  contain  twenty  inhabitants.  The  natives  are 
Ingaliks,  but  from  constant  intercourse  and  close  proximity  to  the 
Innuit  triber,  of  the  coast,  they  have  adopted  many  of  the  Innuit 
customs.  Among  these,  that  of  wearing  labrets  is  most  conspic- 
uous. The  language  spoken  is  the  true  Ingalik,  with  no  inter- 
mixture of  Innuit  words,  except  such  as  ivc  used  to  designate 
objecl.-j  which  they  obtain  from  the  latter  in  trade,  and  for  which 
there  aic  no  Indian  names.  A  jargon  containing  a  large  numb«.f 
of  words  of  both  languages  is  used  in  Iro  ling.  This  is  also  used 
in  intercourse  with  the  Russians,  who  uiulci^Land  something  of 
the  Innuit  dialec  .  This  fact  is  a  sufficient  cause  of  miscompre- 
hension in  regard  to  the  different  dialects,  and  should  be  borne  in 
mind  by  p'.ilologists.  A  similar  jargon  is  in  use  wherever  the 
Indians  tride  with  the  coast  tribes. 

We  boii'xl  the  chynik,  while  I  examined  the  village  and  took 
notes  of  points  of  interest.  The  chief  man  of  the  village  had 
been  hired  by  Isaac  to  descend  the  ShJgeli.k  and  meet  him  at 
the  southern  entrance  ;  but  an  old  fellow  who  appeared  to  have  a 
good  deal  of  influeu'e  came  forward  w  ith  two  fi.:h,  which  he  pro- 
posed to  sell  for  tobacco.  The  price  of  ;i  salmon  is  a  leaf  of 
to1)acco,  on  this  part  of  the  Yukon.  lie  wanted  two  leaves 
a[)iece,  c(>m))laining  that  it  was  early  in  the  season  an<I  fish  were 
scarce,  while  the  leaver  were  very  small!  His  parka  was  almost 
deprived  of  hair  by  long  use,  his  breeches  were  shiny  with 
;,'rease  and  dirt,  which  also  incrusted  his  hands  and  face,  while 
the  hair  on  his  aged  head,  though  cut  short,  stood  erect  as  if  in 
protest  against  the  invasion  of  so  much  raw  material.  Me  looked 
so  comical,  as  he  stood  haggling  for  a  leaf  of  tobacco,  with  his 


2l8 


THK   YUKON    TERRITORY. 


.  Ji't     "*(  .  I 


Imm* 


mvii.i 


j^^,-).,: 


head  on  one  side  and  his  small  eyes  glistenii)<^  with  excitement, 
that  I  j^avc  him  tiu;  price  he  asked,  and  made  it  scjuare  by  taking 
his  portrait,  I)irt  was  the  prominent  characteristic  of  the  village. 
The  year  before,  we  had  touched  her-..,  and  the  space  in  front  of 
the  houses  was  red  with  thousands  of  salmon,  split  and  hung  up  to 
dry.  It  was  yet  too  early  for  the  fish  this  season,  und  there  were 
many  new  baskets  and  nettings  lying  about,  —  the  material  for 
projected  fish-traps.  Many  of  the  inh;ibitants  were  absent,  after 
beaver.  One  man  brought  me  ten  fine  inru-ten,  but  asked  so  high 
a  price  that  I  refused  to  buy  them.  The  Stareek  (old  man) 
brought  mc.  two  marten  and  some  mink,  which  I  bought,  but  the 
Mahlemuts  had  ])urehased  most  of  the  furs.  Well  armed,  bold, 
and  numerous,  the  hitter  completely  overawe<I  the  degraded,  fish- 
eating  Indians,  and  forced  them  to  sell  whattver  they  li.id,  at  the 
purchaser's  price. 

I    noticed   th;it    the   graves    or  coffins    here,   instead   of  being 
covered   with   logs,  as   farthrr  uj)   the    river,  were  filled    in   wiUi 
earth    beaten  down    hard   and    i)lastered   over  with    clay.     They 
\vi:re  larger,  rather  more  eh:vated,  and  ])ainled  niore  after  the  In 
nuit  fashion  than  those  farther  U])  on  the  Yukon. 

I  saw  {|uite  a  number  of  clay  pots  and  cups  of  nativt>  manu- 
facture here.  They  vvc:re  mostly  large,  holding  three  or  four  gal- 
lons, but  some  were  smaller,  and  one  was  evidently  modelled  after 


Indian  ))(>1It'i'v. 

a  Russian  mug.  The  common  Tnnuit  lamp  is  also  made  of  clay, 
and  all  their  pottery  is  rudely  ornamented  with  lines,  dots,  and 
cros.ses.  They  are  about  three  (|uaiters  of  an  inch  thick,  of  a  dark 
bluish  clay,  and  were  perfectly  l)Iack  from  smoke  and  grease.  1 
would  have  purchased  some  of  them,  but  they  were  .so  large  and 
so  exceedingly  dirty  that  I  did  not  care  to  put  them  in  the  boat. 
This  kind  of  pottery  was  formerly  universal,  but  has  been  super 
seded  by  the  kettles  of  the  traders.     The  pots  are  made  by  hand, 


and 
driei 
The 
Xi'iii 
\\ 

The 

conn 

cross 

from 

arc 

hut 

Whi 

iheoi 

1.11(1 

/) 
and  ' 
look 
were 
arc  V 


pciK 

1  !)( 

drav 

: 

scvc 

1 

!  ji 

TIIK    YUKON    TLRRITORY. 


2  19 


i 


excitement, 
"e  by  taking 

tluj  villaj^e. 

in  front  of 

liunj,^  lip  to 
i  there  were 
material  for 
ihscnt,  after 
ked  so  I)i};h 

(old  man) 
Liht,  but  the 
n-med,  liold, 
;ra(lcd,  fish- 
iiad,  at  the 

id  of  beinn; 
ed  in  witii 
:kiy.  Tiicy 
fler  the  III 

live  mana- 
ir  four  <;al- 
dellcxl  after 


de  of  clay, 
,  (h/iS,  and 
,  of  a  dark 
grease.  I 
kirge  and 
the  boat, 
en  supcr- 
j  hy  hand, 


and  therefore  not  perfectly  round  or  symmetrical.  They  are 
(hied  in  the  sun,  then  baked,  and  will  stand  the  fire  very  well. 
The  Innuit  name  for  the  ])ots  x'a  A/kiisik,  for  the  saucers  or  lamps 
NiUiiik,  and  for  the  euj^s  Im-oivuii. 

We  lef*  Aiivi'k  soon  after  drinking  our  tea,  with  Isaac  on  board. 
The  wind  was  so  high  that  wr  could  not  cross  the  river,  and  rain 
coming  on,  we  soon  (  aniped  on  a  sm;>ll  island.  The  other  boats 
crossed  to  the  other  si(K;,  and  we  lost  sight  of  them.  Starting 
from  camp,  I  saw  and  killed  a  large  sand-hill  crane.  These  birds 
are  plenty  on  the  Lower  Yukon.  I  have  seen  thousands  of  them, 
hut  never  c;f  any  color  except  brown,  gra)-,  and  fawn  color. 
While  ones  are  unknown,  and  I  doubt  the  correctness  of  the 
theory  which  considers  the  white  crane  of  tl;e  Mississij)pi  valley 
and  the  saml-hill  ciane  to  be  one  species. 

'/'iics(i(t}\  ijik.  —  The  rain  ceasing,  we  [)assed  down  the  river 

1     and  entered  a  long  slough  or  cut-off     Near  noon  we  stopped  and 

I     took  tea.     Soon  after,  we  came  to  an    Ingalik  camp  where  they 

I     were  making  birch  canoes.     The  birches  of  the   Lower   Ingaliks 

arc  very  ilifi'erent  from  those  of  the  Upi)er  Yukon  Indians.     The 


In;;alik  biitli  c.xnoti. 

rough  waters  of  the  broad  river  need  a  stronger  canoe  than  those 
used  hy  the  Kutchin  tribes.  ICverything  is  cari;fiilly  carved  and 
sinoolhed.  The  frame  is  stout  and  strong,  and  ornamented  with 
red  paint.  The  bark  is  sha[)ed  over  a  mound  of  the  exact  size  of 
llie  jjfoposed  canoe,  and  sewed  with  spruce  roots.  The  cut  rep- 
resents the  canoe  before  the  gum  is  placed  over  the  sewing. 
The  paddles  are  laiice-shai>ed,  small  and  sK-nder,  and  ornamented 
with  the  most  fantastic  figures,  in  red.  hiaek,  and  green.  I  ex- 
pressed a  desire  to  see  the  green  pigment,  and  one  of  the  Indians 
[iroduccd  some.  It  was  a  sort  of  fungus  (/\-rjirjii)  or  mould,  which 
pi  nrt rates  decayed  birch  wood  and  -olors  it  a  deep  blue-green. 
1  bought  a  small  model  of  a  canoe,  §n»m  which  the  above  figure  is 
drawn.  There  were  seven  large  canoes  nearly  finished,  and 
several  in  process  of  manufacture.     The   Ingaliks  take  fleets  of 


ri 


i 


r 


:j,,; 


1  ■ ; 

' 

(i'l 

•  hi 

1  i 

jfi'  ! 

1 

:1 

i 

2  20 


THE   YUKON    TERRITORY. 


these  new  canoes  clown  to  the  delta  in  the  fall,  and  trade  them 
to  the  river  Innuit  for  oil,  ivory,  boot-soles,  and  other  articles. 
Isaac  expressed  a  great  desire  to  take  one  of  the  little  model 
canoes  to  his  baby,  and  I  bought  one  for  him,  to  his  great  delight. 
We  also  purchased  some  fish  and  berries,  and  went  on  our  way. 
We  passed  a  large  winter  village  between  two  hills,  known  to  the 
Russians  as  the  Murderer's  Village.  Crossing  the  Yukon  about 
three  o'clock,  wc  came  to  the  southern  entrance  of  the  Shageluk 
slough.  Ascending  a  little  way,  we  reached  the  Leather  Village 
of  the  Russians.  This  is  a  large  Ingalik  summer  village,  the 
inhabitants  in  winter  living  at  the  last-mentioned  settlement. 
Here  we  saw  the  cotton  tents  of  the  Mahlcmut  camp  near  the 
Indian  houses.  Isaac's  wife  stood  on  the  bank,  holding  the  baby, 
which  crowed  and  exhibited  all  its  infantile  joy  at  seeing  its 
father,  who  still  further  delighted  this  promising  member  of  the 
family  by  producing  the  toy  canoe. 

We  left  the  boat  in  the  water,  and  took  only  our  tent,  cooking 
u^^ensils,  and  blankets  ashore,  as  the  number  of  natives  was  so 
great  that  I  thought  it  the  safest  way,  especially  as  these  Indians 
have  a  reputation  for  stealing.  Leaving  one  man  on  the  watch,  I 
strolled  into  the  village.  The  amount  of  food  collected  here  was 
almost  inconceivable.  Large  stages  were  groaning  beneath  the 
weight  offish,  caught  and  dried  the  previous  .sjason.  Long  lines 
were  strung  with  fresh  white-fish,  drying  in  the  sun.  Rows  of 
caches  full  of  dry  fish,  meat,  fat,  and  skins  of  oil,  showed  that 
hunger  need  not  exist  in  this  favored  locality. 

The  fresh  meat  of  three  or  four  moose,  jr.st  killed,  was  lying  in 
one  pile;  another  contained  the  har.nchcs  and  shoulders  of  ten 
deer.  Every  few  minutes  a  canoe  half  full  of  fresh  whitc-fi.sli 
would  arrive  from  the  fish-traps,  and  in  no  part  of  the  Indian 
country  have  I  ever  seen  food  so  plentiful  and  so  easily  obtained. 
I  was  informed  that  the  natives  had  quite  a  trade  wit'.i  those  from 
other  places,  who  came  to  buy  ukali  in  the  winter  and  sprin:.,. 
The  summer  houses  were  large  and  well  built.  The  walls  ever, 
of  the  caches  were  thick,  and  in  many  cases  pierced  with  loop- 
holes for  guns.  There  were  but  few  dogs  about,  and  I  noticed  a 
large  white-breasted  thrush  tied  by  the  leg,  and  apparently  quite 
tame.  I  tried  to  buy  the  bird,  which  I  had  not  seen  elsewhere, 
but  the  owner  could  not  be  found.     The   Indians  told  me  that 


THE   YUKON   TERRITORY. 


221 


trade  them 
ler  articles, 
little  model 
eat  delight. 
)n  our  way. 
lown  to  the 
ukon  about 
e  Shageluk 
ther  Village 
village,   the 

settlement. 

p  near  the 

g  the  baby, 

seeing  its 

iber  of  the 

nt,  cooking 
ves  was  so 
zse  Indians 
he  watch,  I 
d  here  was 
eneath  the 
Long  lines 
Rows  of 
owed   that 

IS  lying  ill 
crs  of  ten 
white-fish 
he  Indian 
■  obtained, 
hose  from 
id   spriiiu- 
walls  ever, 
with   loop- 
noticed  a 
ntly  quite 
elsewhere, 
1   me  that 


i 


Teleczhik,  the  old  Russian  interpreter,  had  been  there  the  previous 
day,  and  was  now  trading  for  furs  farther  up  the  Shageluk.  I  re- 
turned to  my  tent,  and  bought  a  lot  of  fresh  meat  and  some  fat. 
Isaac  came  up  and  said  that  his  brother  had  come  with  him,  and 
had  a  little  liquor  which  he  had  bought  of  tlie  traders,  but  not 
enough  to  make  a  "  good  drunk."  "  Now,"  said  he,  "we  want  you 
to  sell  us  your  whiskey,  and  we  will  pay  you  well  for  it,  with  furs 
or  anything  you  want."  During  my  abso^ice  the  rascals  had  dis- 
covered a  can  of  alcoholic  specimens  in  the  boat,  and  supposed  it 
was  whiskey.  I  told  him  that  I  wanted  it  myself,  that  it  was  not 
good  to  drink,  &c.,  but  he  went  away  very  sulky.  The  Mahle- 
niuts,  male  and  female,  now  dressed  themselves  in  the  new  fur 
clothing  which  they  had  brought  to  sell.  Old  Abraham,  Isaac's 
father,  commenced  drumming,  and  the  rest  soon  began  one  of  their 
characteristic  dances.  Those  who  did  not  dance  raised  the  old 
"Ung-hi-yah"  chorus  and  kept  time,  clapping  their  hands.  It 
was  a  sight  to  remember.  Ten  or  fifteen  clean,  handsome,  stal- 
wart Innuit,  going  through  the  graceful  gesticulations  of  their 
national  dance,  dressed  in  new  and  handsomely  trimmed  parkics 
of  every  variety  of  skin,  —  with  the  tall  poplars  and  spruce  for  a 
background,  a  fire  on  one  side,  and  above  the  genial  twilight  of 
the  arctic  night.  Their  wild  chorus  added  to  the  charm  of  the 
scLMie.  Around  them  in  a  wide  oval  were  huddled  the  well-fed 
but  filthy  Indians.  Their  skin  clothing  was  hairless  from  long 
use,  and  while  almost  dropping  off  them  from  decay,  glisi.ened 
with  vermin.  Degradation,  filth,  stupdity,  fear,  and  wonder 
marked  their  features.  The  meanest  of  the  Innuit  far  surpassed 
the  best  of  them  in  strength  and  manliness.  Their  miserable 
condition  was  due  in  great  measure  to  their  sedentary  habits, 
vnnstant  fish  diet,  and  natural  indolence.  Very  few  had  guns  at 
all,  and  those  which  they  did  have  were  old,  worn  out,  and  nearly 
worthless.  The  Ingaliks  who  live  farther  up  the  Sh.igeluk  are 
SvVivl  to  be  more  intelligent  and  active,  probably  because  they  sub- 
sist on  the  deer  and  moose  which  they  are  obliged  to  hunt.  Af- 
ter the  Mahlemuts  had  concluded  their  dance  they  distributed 
tobacco  in  small  pieces  to  the  bystanders.     I  repaired  to  my  tent, 

ne:  the  alcohol-can,  for  i   "        ' 


ippc! 


P 


^y- 


nsr 


lay  down  to  rest.     I  had  not  got  asleep,  -vhen  I  heard  somethi 
crash  against  the  tent-pins,  breaking  down  two  of  them.     At  the 


:.i;  ii: 


222 


THK   YUKON   TERRITORY. 


¥' 


!j 


i   I 


t     i 


.■'t 


same  time,  Kurflla  slioutcd  to  me  from  outside  that  the  M;ililc- 
muts  were  after  tlie  alcoliol.  I  shouted  hack  to  ]()<)]<  sharp,  as 
they  would  not  jj;et  it  while  I  had  a  loatled  f;im.  I  pulled  on  my 
hoots,  seized  my  revolver,  which  lay  by  my  head,  and  thn^vv  back 
the  flap  of  the  tent.  There  stood  a  Mahlemut  with  his  hand  on 
the  trigger,  and  the  muzzle  of  his  gun  about  two  feet  from  my 
breast.  At  the  same  moment,  Kun'Ua's  long  arm  jerked  the  gun 
from  his  hands,  and  flung  it  far  away  among  the  bushes. 

I  stepped  out  of  the  tent,  and  the  Mahlemnts  slunk  away  with- 
out a  word.  They  were  intoxicated,  having  drunk  the  liquor  of 
which  Isaac  had  spoken.  The  Indians  had  hidden  themselves, 
while  my  men,  guns  in  hand,  stood  near  the  tent.  If  the  Mahle- 
muts  had  been  sober,  they  would  not  have  behaved  so.  It  was  a 
narrow  escape,  which  I  hardly  realized  at  the  time.  The  in- 
truders retired  to  their  tents,  seeing  us  armed  and  ready  for  any- 
thing. The  Indians  now  mustered  courage  enough  to  come  out, 
anil  the  chief  came  to  me  and  begged  me,  with  many  bows  and 
deprecatory  gestures,  to  remove  my  camp,  as  he  was  afraid  there 
would  be  trouble  yet.  "  You  know  these  Innuit  are  so  very 
bad,  so  horribly  bad,  such  beasts,  worse  than  dogs,"  said  he,  al- 
most with  tears  in  his  eyes.  No  doubt  he  was  thinking  of  the 
miserable  gun  which  they  had  just  given  him  for  twenty  fine 
marten  skins,  which  he  dared  not  refuse  them.  I  consulted  with 
KuriUa,  and  then  told  the  chief  that  we  would  move  our  camp  to 
the  island  in  the  middle  of  the  river,  and  if  any  one  wished  to 
trade  meat  or  fur  they  would  find  us  there.  The  tent  and  other 
traps  were  thrown  into  the  boat,  and  we  pulled  across  a  very  swift 
current  to  the  island.  Just  as  we  hauled  up  the  boat,  Kuri'lla  shot 
a  swan  who  was  sailing  slowly  overhead,  and  taking  the  little 
canoe,  he  started  down  stream  after  it.  Some  Indians  came  over 
with  beaver  skins  and  tails,  which  I  purchased  ;  and  I  hired  one  of 
them  to  act  as  sentinel  during  the  night,  with  a  good  fire  to  keep 
off  the  mosquitoes.  When  Kurilla  returned  we  gave  our  watch- 
man the  swan  to  pick,  to  keep  him  a.vake,  and  turning  in,  were 
soon  lost  in  slumber. 

WcJiicsdoy,  \o//i.  —  We  pushed  out  into  the  rapid  current  very 
early  in  the  day,  while  we  saw  nothing  more  of  our  Innuit  friends, 
who  were  probably  sleeping  off  their  headaches.  We  pulled  hard, 
hoping  to  reach  the  Mission  before  night.     We  passed  a  village 


of 

niol 

HtoJ 

an(l 
of  I 
to 

Mai 

thai 
/:7vi 


THK   YUKON   TKRRITOKY. 


223 


the  Miihl 
)k  sharp,  as 
ullcd  on  my 
thrt'vv  back 
his  hand  011 
ot  from  my 
<cd  the  gun 
cs. 

away  with- 
10  liquor  of 
themselves, 
the  Mahle- 
.     It  was  a 
:.      The   in- 
idy  for  any- 
o  come  out, 
ly  bows  and 
afraid  there 
are  so  very 
said  he,  al- 
king  of  the 
wenty  fine 
suited  with 
ur  camp  to 
wished  to 
and  other 
very  swift 
uri'lla  shot 
the   little 
came  over 
red  one  of 
re  to  keep 
nir  watch- 
<:;  in,  were 


rrent  very 

lit  friends, 

lied  hard, 

a  villas; 


of  two  houses,  called  Manki,  interesting  principally  as  being  the 
most  inland  Innuit  village  on  the  Yukon.  The  difference  of 
stock  was  apparent  only  from  the  countenances  of  the  natives 
and  the  dialect  which  they  spoke.  The  latter  exhibited  no  signs 
of  any  mixture  of  Indian  words.  It  was  quite  incomprehensible 
lo  my  men,  who  had  been  .able  to  converse  freely  at  the  last  vil- 
lage. I  could  understand  only  a  few  words,  which  resembled  the 
Mahlemut,  though  the  grammatical  construction  was  the  same  as 
that  of  the  other  Innuit  dialects.  These  natives  belong  to  the 
likogiiiitf  (sometimes  called  Kii'iklipdirinHt)  tribe,  and  are  known 


First   Prcmnrsk:!  village. 

to  the  Russians  as  Prc-nwrski,  or  "  dwellers  near  the  sea."  They 
extend  to  the  seaboard,  on  both  sides  of  the  river.  Their  habits 
ill  general  are  similar  to  those  of  the  coast  Innuit  already  de- 
scribed, but  are  a  little  modified  by  their  situation  on  a  river, 
which  presents  some  conditions  which  do  not  obtain  on  the  sea- 
shore. They  are  at  peace  with  the  adjacent  Iridians,  probably 
as  much  because  both  are  miserable  cowards,  as  from  any  other 
reason. 

As  we  sailed  down  the  river,  an  old  fellow  in  a  small  bidarra 
came  out  from  a  river  which  entered  the  Yukon  from  the  west, 


} 


#?rii 


i,i\ 


224 


THE  YUKON   TERRITORY. 


and  brought  some  cranberries  for  sale.  A  great  difference  is 
noticeable  between  the  villages  on  the  Upper  and  those  on  the 
Lower  Yukon.  Bilow,  we  find  large,  solid,  permanent  houses, 
gayly  painted  paddles,  and  great  abundance  of  skin  boats,  the 
prows  of  which  are  frequently  fashioned  to  resemble  the  head  of 
some  beast  or  bird  ;  above,  the  dwellings  are  at  best  miserable 
huts,  tents,  or  temporary  shelters  made  of  brush.  Dirt,  and  a  defi- 
ciency of  the  ornamental,  mark  the  upper  villages,  while  the  only 
boats  are  the  frail  and  carelessly  made  birch  canoes.  A  little 
farther  on  we  met  a  three-holed  bidarka  with  a  Creole  from  the 
Mission  in  it.  He  was  going  to  the  small  river  we  had  just 
passed,  to  try  and  hire  the  bidarra  from  the  natives,  for  a  trip  to 
the  Redoubt.  He  gave  us  some  goose-eggs,  and  went  on  his  way. 
We  kept  on  until  eight  o'clock  in  the  evening,  and  finding  that 
we  could  not  reach  the  Mission  within  several  hours,  camped  at  a 
native  settlement,  called  by  the  Russians  Loon-cap  Village.  Wo 
pitched  our  tent  near- a  small  brook,  and  soon  had  the  kettle  on 
the  fire.  This  village  presented  many  points  of  interest.  The 
number  of  inhabitants  was  only  eight  or  ten,  the  remainder 
having  died.  This  decrease  in  population  is  noteworthy  along 
the  Lower  Yukon.  Everywhere  there  are  fewer  natives  than 
formerly.  The  decrease  is  partly  due  to  lung  diseases,  which 
arise  from  their  habit  of  drawing  the  smoke  of  the  Circassian 
tobacco  into  the  lungs.  In  this  particular  village,  within  a  gen- 
eration, there  had  been  several  hundred  inhabitants.  There  were 
eight  large  summer  houses,  in  each  of  which  a  hundred  people 
might  have  been  comfortably  accommodated.  These  houses 
were  built  of  immense  planks,  hewn  out  of  single  logs  with  stone 
adzes.  ]\Lany  of  these  planks  were  four  inches  thick,  and  three 
feet  wide  by  twelve  feet  long.  The  houses  were  in  a  miserable 
state  of  decay.  Water  stood  in  some  of  them,  and  only  one  or 
two  were  habitable.  The  rafters  were  carved  into  rude  imitations 
of  animals,  and  still  retained  traces  of  the  red  earth  with  which 
they  had  been  painted.  The  graves  were  the  most  conspicuous 
and  remarkable  part  of  the  village.  They  exceeded  any  I  have 
ever  seen  on  the  Yukon,  in  intricacy  of  ornament,  variety  of  de- 
sign, and  in  their  number  compared  with  the  size  of  the  village. 
They  were  on  the  hillside,  a  little  way  above  the  houses.  I  no- 
ticed that  they  were  not  covered  with  logs  or  slabs  of  wood  like 


THE  YUKON   TERRITORY. 


225 


the  Ingalik  graves,  nor  with  earth  and  clay  like  those  at  An- 
vi'k,  but  were  filled  with  earth  over  the  body,  and  then  carefully 
covered  with  pieces  of  birch  bark,  held  down  by  heavy  stones. 
The  supports  of  the  box  were  immediately  underneath  it,  and 
large  balustcr-likc  standards  ornamcntctl  the  corners.  Many  of 
the  boxes  were  carefully  fitted,  smoothed,  and  painted  with  va- 
rious designs.  Some  had  fur  animals  depicted  on  them,  showing 
that  the  dead  person  was  a  successful  trapper.  Others  had  the 
bear,  deer,  and  other  animals,  denoting  thi  graves  to  be  those  of 
hunters.  Fish,  birds,  pictures  of  seal  and  beluga  hunting,  were 
painted  with  the  usual  red  pigment  on  others.  Many  were 
studded  with  pegs  of  ivory  or  bone ;  some  were  surrounded  by  a 
carefully  carved  and  painted  railing.  Drums,  kantdgs,  paddles, 
bows  of  tremendous  size  bound  with  sinew,  arrows  of  bone  carved 
into  intricate  lace-work,  quite  different  from  anything  I  have  seen 
elsewhere,  strings  of  beads,  belts,  pieces  of  brass  scratched  with 
patterns,  kettles,  and  other  articles  of  use  and  ornament  were 
attached  to  many  of  the  coffins.  On  posts  in  front  of  some  of 
them  were  separate  pieces  of  wood-carving,  such  as  masks  re- 
sembling- the  human  face,  and  trimmed  with  wolfskin,  carved 
human  heads,  beavers  transfixed  with  arrows,  fish,  beluga,  and 
boats  with  men  in  them,  all  variously  painted. 

The  ethnologist  would  find  a  wide  field  in  the  vicinity  of  this 
village  alone.  The  few  inhabitants  had  a  melancholy  cast  of 
countenance,  as  if  conscious  that  they  were  living  among  the  re- 
mains of  the  ingenuity  of  their  ancestors,  which  they  could  not 
hope  to  emulate.  They  were  successful  in  hunting  ;  that  very 
day  a  bear  and  three  deer  were  killed,  with  nothing  but  arrows,  a 
few  rods  from  the  houses.  The  men  wore  dresses  of  birdskins, 
which  are  common  on  the  Lower  Yukon.  Some  of  them  had 
caps  made  of  the  skin  of  a  loon  or  hawk,  with  the  breast  above, 
the  head  still  attached  and  hanging  down  behind,  and  the  wings 
on  either  side.  The  vegetation  was  luxuriant.  I  forced  my 
way  to  the  vicinity  of  the  graves  through  a  growth  of  grass  and 
weeds  four  feet  high.  Care  was  necessary  to  avoid  falling  into 
excavations,  the  sole  remains  of  ancient  winter  houses  long  since 
rotted  away. 

I  bought  some  fresh  venison,  and  after  a  hearty  supper  we 
turned  in. 

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226 


THE  YUKON  TERRITORY. 


I,     ,:, 


m 


I! 


Thursday,  wth.  —  After  collecting  a  few  plants,  among  which 
were  the  blossoms  of  black  and  red  currants,  we  pushed  off  on 
our  way  to  the  Mission.  The  trees  had  already  become  less 
abundant,  especially  on  the  right  bank.  The  latter  was  pretty 
high  in  many  places,  and  trachytic  rocks  were  observed.  In 
some  places  the  river  is  exceedingly  wide,  and  once  or  twice, 
when  we  were  in  the  current  close  to  the  right  bank,  the  left 
bank  was  quite  invisible.  A  broad,  smooth  sheet  of  water 
stretched  to  the  west,  undisturbed  by  any  ripples,  and  not  broken 
by  islands  or  dry  sand-bars.  The  scene  strongly  impressed  upon 
the  observer  the  majesty  of  the  great  river  upon  which  we  were 
travelling.  About  ten  o'clock  the  basaltic  rocks  indicated  the 
proximity  of  the  Mission,  and  hoisting  the  American  flag  and 
that  of  the  Scientific  Corps,  we  rounded  a  point,  and  the  build- 
ings came  into  view.  The  water  near  the  shore  was  shallow, 
and  we  had  some  difficulty  in  hauling  in  our  heavily  loaded 
boat.  We  fired  a  gun,  and  were  saluted  in  return  by  the  Rus- 
sians. 

We  found  that  the  missionary  of  the  Greek  Church  in  the 
District  of  St.  Michael's  (commonly  known  to  the  Russians  as 
the  Pope)  was  on  the  point  of  starting  for  the  Redoubt.  He 
had  dismantled  the  church  of  everything  valuable,  and  had  nailed 
up  the  door.  At  his  request  I  look  an  inventory  of  the  houses 
and  articles  of  furniture  he  left  behind,  as  he  hoped  to  sell  them 
to  the  Americans  when  they  arrived.  He  then  applied  for  med- 
ical advice,  and  gave  a  lengthy  description  of  his  personal  mis- 
eries, which  were  all  clearly  referrible  to  an  undue  indulgence  in 
alcoholic  stimulants.  This,  I  believe,  in  the  Greek  Church  is 
not  considered  to  detract  from  the  holiness  of  its  ecclesiastics. 
All  of  those  I  have  met  with  in  Alaska  and  Kamchatka  were 
inveterate  topers.  He  told  me  that  he  had  been  seven  years  a 
missionary  on  the  Yukon,  and  that  he  thanked  God  that  he  now 
had  an  opportunity  of  returning  to  Russia,  where  a  glass  of  rum 
might  be  had  for  twenty-five  kopeks  (five  cents).  I  cautioncfl 
him  against  ddirhnn  tremens,  and  bade  him  good  by.  His  Creole 
servant,  who  accompanied  him  to  St.  Michael's,  had  a  very 
pretty  wife,  and  I  doubted  if  something  more  than  a  fatherly 
benediction  did  not  lurk  in  the  kiss  Father  Larriown  gave  her 
just  before  he  embarked. 


I 


THE   YUKON   TERRITORY. 


227 


nong  which 
jhed  off  on 
tccome  less 
was  pretty 
served.  In 
e  or  twice, 
nk,  the  left 
t  of  water 
not  broken 
■essed  upon 
ch  we  were 
dicated  the 
m  flag  and 
1  the  build- 
ras  shallow, 
ivily  loaded 
»y  the  Rus- 

iirch  in  the 
Russians  as 
Joubt.  He 
I  had  nailed 
the  houses 

0  sell  them 
ed  for  med- 
rsonal  mis- 
Julgence  in 

Church  is 
cclesiastics. 
hatka  were 
'en  years  a 
lat  he  now 

ass  of  rum 

1  cautioned 
Mis  Creole 

lad  a  very 
a  fatherly 
1  gave  her 


(i 


The  other  Russians  at  the  Mission  were  Milavdiioff  the  bidar- 
shik,  and  Goldsen,  who  had  been  acting  as  secretary.  Mila- 
vanoff  was  a  good  trader,  but  an  invalid  from  liver  complaint, 
which  is  common  among  the  Russians  in  this  country.  He  gave 
mc  a  good  supply  of  bread,  as  my  own  was  nearly  exhausted,  and 
I  made  him  a  present  of  my  Derringer,  to  which  he  had  taken  a 
fancy.  I  was  sorry  to  find  that  I  could  not  get  an  interpreter 
here,  as  the  Innuit  dialect  of  the  delta  was  incomprehensible  to 
all  of  our  party.  The  buildings  at  the  Mission,  except  a  new 
house  of  Milavanoff  s  and  one  belonging  to  the  Pope,  are  very 
rotten  and  miserable.  The  pla^e  is  a  very  unhealthy  one. 
It  is  situated  between  two  hills  which  shelter  it  completely  from 
the  wind.  Several  pools  of  .stagnant  water  are  close  by.  The  In- 
dian village  is  very  filthy,  and  their 
refuse  from  fish  and  other  matters 
is  everywhere  scattered  about.  I 
counted  six  dead  dogs  among  the 
bushes,  and  close  to  the  houses  there 
is  a  large  number  of  graves,  both 
R'/iSsian  and  native.  Some  of  the 
latter  were  curious,  and  were  fur- 
nished with  the  baluster-Uke  sup- 
ports before  mentioned. 

We  emptied  our  boat,  turned  her  over,  gave  her  a  good  oiling, 
and  left  her  to  dry.  This  is  imperatively  necessary  when  travel- 
ling in  skin  boats,  and  should  be  done  at  least  once  in  ten  days, 
if  possible.  We  all  took  a  good  steam  bath,  which  was  a  great 
luxury.  Once,  farther  up  the  Yukon,  I  had  tried  the  experiment 
of  bathing  in  the  river,  but  the  water  was  so  cold  that  only  a 
single  plunge  was  endurable.  In  this  part  of  the  river  the  water 
is  so  muddy  that  it  adds  nothing  to  one's  cleanliness  to  bathe 
in  it. 

Friday,  12///.  —  After  securing  a  number  of  specimens,  grind- 
ing our  a.xes,  and  performing  a  variety  of  similar  small  jobs,  we 
again  proceeded  on  our  way.  Just  below  the  Mission  we  saw  a 
native  attacking  a  beaver  with  one  of  their  bone  tridents.  Ku- 
rilla  started  to  his  assistance,  in  the  canoe,  with  his  gun  ;  after  a 
little  while  they  returned,  and  I  bought  the  animal,  as  it  lay.  for 
tlircc  bunches  of  Circassian  tobacco.     We  kept  on  all  night,  as 


Ekogmut  grave. 


r^T 


228 


THE   YUKON   TERRITORY. 


the  air  is  cooler  than  in  the  clay,  and  there  is  no  darkness,  though 
the  sun  goes  a  little  below  the  horizon.  No  stars  were  visible  all 
night. 

Saturday,  13///.  —  About  midnight  we  rounded  the  Great  Ik-nd. 
Here  we  met  the  head-wind  blowing  in  our  teeth  with  redoubled 
force.  For  all  the  use  they  had  been,  so  far,  we  might  as  well 
have  left  the  mast  and  sail  at  Nuhito.  At  the  Iknd  we  found  a 
camp  of  natives  who  were  waiting  for  the  wind  to  subside.  They 
had  nothing  for  sale  except  a  few  mink  and  some  eggs.  I  bought 
some  swan's  eggs  for  scientific  purposes,  and  also  a  bow  of  the 
kind  in  use  in  the  Yukon  delta.  These  bows  are  made  of  .spruce, 
which  has  little  elasticity  when  dry,  and  is  very  liable  to  break. 
To  remedy  this  defect  the  bow  is  bound  with  cords  twisted  from 
deer  sinew,  as  shown  in  the  annexed  figure.     This  gives  it  great 


jg '       )'"■ 


MWT"  T  ^MttE 


'I 
1 1* 


\nf 


Ekogmiit  bow. 

Strength,  and  overcomes  the  brittleness  of  the  wood.  We  took  tea 
in  a  slough,  and  about  noon  stopped  at  a  village  where  the  inhab- 
itants were  engaged  in  fishing.  It  is  only  by  personal  inspection 
of  such  a  village  that  any  one  can  obtain  an  adequate  idea  of  the 
immense  quantity  of  fish  which  is  annually  caught  and  dried  on 
the  Lower  Yukon.  Several  acres  of  ground  in  front  of  the  sum- 
mer hou.ses  were  literally  covered  with  standards  and  stages  bear- 
ing line  after  line  of  fish,  split  and  hung  up  to  dry.  The  odor  is 
borne  to  a  great  distance  by  the  wind.  The  tlogs,  children,  ami 
other  inhabitants  of  the  village,  during  the  fishing-season,  recall 
the  old  lines, — 

"  Jesluinm  he  waxt-d  fat. 
And  down  his  cheeks  they  hung  !  " 

while  the  long  rows  of  caches  are  crammed  with  provisions  for  the 
winter.  This  condition  of  things  holds  good  as  far  as  Anvlk. 
Hcyond  that  point  the  fish  are  scarcer,  and,  as  previously  related, 
Nulato  is  far  from  furnishing  food  of  any  kind  in  plenty.  In  the 
foreground  the  ditferent  parts  of  fish-traps  were  lying,  in  readi- 


ness,  though 
ic  visible  all 

Great  Bend, 
h  redoubled 
light  as  well 
we  found  a 
bside.    They 

s.    I  bought    I       ■:^;;  tHk^ 

I  bow  of  the 

le  of  s|)ruce,     H         JJIt 

)le  to  break.     ™         ^ '' 

twisted  from 

ivcs  it  great 


We  took  tea 
the  inhab- 
inspection 
idea  of  the 
;uul  dried  on 
of  the  sum- 
stages  bear- 
'he  odor  is 
lildren,  and 
•ason,  recall 


ions  for  the 
as  Anv(k. 
Lisly  related, 
ty.  In  the 
g,  in  readi- 


% 


p 


ii 


11 


h 


!■!! 


228 

th«-  tr  is 

thr  '.Uif    , 
1.  ,  1  ■. 


TFIK   '.  (   tvON     ri.Ri.TloKV. 

i  1  iha<!    'I  tluT  Ji«y.  and  ib^re  i-^  no  flarkncs';,  ihoug!. 
t  lirti'  'V  .;ja  ihi:  horu<'>n,     N<.    .tars  \vt;ic  vLsihle  al' 


-•    \"iii  i.ii  P'ulnight  \vc  riiinJcd  thu  (i!\,Mt  Heiul 
■  » ■  lua'i  wiini  lilnwing  in  our  teeth  with  f^edoiible' 
il  ih(.   um;  they  hail  brcn,  so  far;  wt:  nuj^hl  as  we!' 
h  ■'  I.  !(*•'    ;if  ir.a>;  and  sail  at  Xulat".     At  the   IJcud  \vr  found  a 
.  :iitn|vi.'   lu    ivi-.  wli.t   v-n."  vvaitiiif;  lor  the  wind  to  subside.     The 
had  '      uiiij.  k>r  salt"  c  vr  pt  .;  few  mink  and  .some  cj;i!-;.     1  bough 
son-      rtaus  i:';*;*^  fot    -.•Rntific  purjio'^cs.  rin.l  alsi   ;i  l.'ow  of  th 
k':,  i  in  u^«:  in  the  \  'ikon  delta.     These-  b<)Wa  urc  niaiii.-  orsprucff 
u!iicl)  iia->  iutf:  elanti-  itv  wh.  ii  drv,  anti  \>  vry  lial)lt'.  to  lireak 
\\>   •iMih'd\  this  dif'''l    t!u'  bow  is  bound  \Mtli  cord^  twi^Jcd  frot 
dcfi  :5iiiLVv.  as  shown  in  [hr  anuoxcd  fi^jurc       J'his  ^he-.^  ii  grtfli 


Iski'ii'ii'ii  Ijo' 


:db=^-^-««^- 


«.i'!  .  i>rit'.:  r.c.ss  of  tb(.:  w.iod.     W  r  i ook  If^ 

■  -,    ;.i'f    '.  »   «n  >;-'p|    d  at  a  '.'illa^c  where  tlv:  inhaf- 
U'^\i\:  I  iii  I'- ill         i '.  i.s  only  bv  i^fJr.'>op.al  nispcctici. 


•  TcnL-ii^. 
in  u  •  i"  '. 
I  tun- .  V  , 

•  li"     ,' ;\  a  \i!l:i:.:.-  tli.it  .u.',     th' ca;!  o1)ta'n  an  a'^'qiiat'-  Ki>.a  of  th 
i.n:  ;' n  ■•  .piaiit  '\.  <'\   (Ish   vvhiih  i     aniuial'y  L.iti^ht  and  tlricdo' 
Ci     I  «iv,c'-  ^  ui.  .111.     Si-v.  ral  -i^rcs  ."f  j.o.,u..J  in  fro;:l  "f  the  sutn 
ii    r  h"ii'-; -;  v\   ri'  litcia!!}  cov<  rod  with  .'-tandaids  ai'd  staj;'c.s  bear- 
!•        1.''  a!ii  r  liiii-  "1   fish,  spli'  .md  linnj;  Uf'  lu  dry.     The  i>dor  1  • 
'"  'm  n   ;..i-;<t  di  la:ii:(:   b^  Ihi    umd      Thi:  dojj.'^,  'Inldrcn.  and. 
lit:  I'ld'i!  lu, , 'if  the  '  ij'a^c,  ilnrin;;  tho  n.iiiing--..'.ison,  rcciii 

fh-:  '    ,r-  _-.  ^ 

I>'  imriin  li'  w.i\i'"ti  t\\f. 

•\i  il  'J.iwii  liis  tl'  eki  they  ''p  .:  "'  ' 

u  'ui'   t'l.  V.  ^  :  {  Laches  are  craiume  I  '^ith  pnviMoni  for  lh( 

win'-  !      ']  >d'.iiivt  of  thint^s  holds  ;•.  .>d  a     far  as  Anvfk 

Hcyond  iliru  j  -uMiNh  are  scart.-  r,  and.  •t's  previously  rdateti. 

Nnl.'iio  ••  ihr  lo  ^i^hl!l>;  food  ol  an,  kind  in  plenty.     In  &■ 

forr-piound  tliL   ti-^'       nt   parts  of  tii^h  tr.ip->.  wcif  l\inc;,  'm   rc:ul\ 


i±^ 


•s';,  thoug!. 

•  vibiblfj  a! 

iixat  Ikml 
redouble' 
ihl  as  we'' 
K''    iViuntl    t 
.ilk'.    The- 

1    l)OUg}' 
l,H)U   o(    th 

•  or^prucv 
i'  tn  break 
\vi:,i''d  froi 


t'.n;  inhal. 
|l  iiispcctioi. 
of  th 

d  0' 


I,  I'.. I 
Hi  tine 


•1  tlu-  sutr 
beai- 


:U,v.S 


Irhvj  i>doi  I 

I'lren.  im.' 
n,  re:ar 


i  for  ihf 
Anvik 

rclatcil. 
In  tV. 


II  ronii 


i 


tiiij 


THE  YUKON   TERRITORY. 


229 


ness  to  repair  any  damage,  or  put  clown  a  new  trap,  if  the  water 
fell  so  as  to  render  it  necessary.  Here  some  men  were  emptying 
the  fish  out  of  a  basket,  and  there  others  were  returning  with  a 
canoe-load  of  salmon  from  some  distant  zap6r. 

We  bought  a  few  whitefish,  and  some  mink.  I  saw  two  red  fox 
cubs  with  collars,  tied  to  stakes  in  some  of  the  houses.  These 
wore  apparently  intended  to  amuse  the  children.  We  then 
departed,  and  finally  camped  on  a  sand-bar  which  was  literally 
alive  with  wild  fowl.  We  were  now  getting  into  the  region 
where  they  abound,  during  the  spring  and  summer,  in  myriads. 
The  report  of  a  gun  will  often  raise  such  immense  flocks  of  geese 
as  literally  to  darken  »he  air;  sometimes  a  flock  will  be  four  or  five 
miles  long,  and  two  or  three  rods  wide,  flying  as  close  together 
as  they  can  with  safety.  Swans  whitened  the  surface  of  several 
lagoons,  and  from  them  down  to  the  tiniest  snipe,  not  weighing 
more  than  an  ounce,  every  kind  of  wild  fowl  abounded  in  pro- 
fusion. Their  eggs  were  scattered  over  the  sand-bars,  and  a 
hatful  could  be  obtained  on  any  beach.  On  attempting  to  empty 
the  swan's-eggs  which  I  had  purchased  the  day  before,  by  means 
of  a  blow-pipe,  they  resisted  all  my  efibrts.  On  breaking  them, 
what  was  my  surprise  at  finding  that  they  had  been  hard  boiled 
by  the  natives,  to  keep  them  from  spoiling  ! 

The  real  work  of  the  season  had  been  well  commenced  at  Nulato, 
but  partially  suspended  since  we  left,  as  we  had  procured  but  few 
birds  new  to  the  collection,  since  leaving  that  point.  Now  I  had 
my  hands  full,  and  leaving  the  task  of  navigating  to  Kuri'Ua,  I  was 
constantly  occupied  skinning  the  birds  which  we  obtained  at 
every  turn.  I  passed  many  a  night  without  getting  an  hour's 
sleep,  in  order  that  rare  birds  might  be  preserved ;  and  the  work 
of  preparing  birdskins  is  anything  but  a  pleasant  one.  The 
results  to  be  obtained  for  natural  history  were  so  great,  that  it 
was  impossible  to  grudge  a  moment  of  time  so  spent,  or  to  neglect 
any  opportunity  of  adding  to  the  note-book  or  the  collection. 

Sunday,  \^th.  —  Passed  the  Rasbi'nik  village,  where  I  bought  a 
marten-skin  and  a  haunch  of  reindeer  meat.  The  natives  here 
always  cut  a  small  piece  off"  every  skin  after  selling  it,  for  luck 
as  they  say.  Toward  night  we  reached  the  village  of  Starry  (old) 
Kwikhpdk.  Here  I  found  a  man  named  Yaska,  who  had  been 
interpreter  at  Andr^affsky.     I  explained  to  him  that  I  wished  to 


ii 


1.  111! 


230 


THE   YUKON   TKRRITO.IY. 


visit  tlic  Kiisilvak  Slouj^li,  and  obtain  eggs  and  skins  of  the 
beautiful  emperor  goose  {Chlocphaga  cana^ica),  which  breeds  in 
abundance  there,  and  there  only.  He  could  not  go  himself,  but 
obtained  a  boy  who  knew  the  way,  and  explained  to  him  what  I 
wanted.  Tiie  village  was  full  of  fresh  skins  of  the  reindeer  fawn. 
I  counted  a  thousand  and  seventy-two  bunches  hanging  up  to 
dry.  Each  bunch  contained  four  skins,  or  enough  to  make  a 
parka.  This  would  give  a  total  of  nearly  four  thousand  three 
hundred  of  these  little  creatures,  which  had  been  killed  during 
the  past  two  months.  The  village  contained  a  great  deal  of  dry 
meat  and  fish,  but  the  inhabitants  were  squalid  and  dirty.     I  saw 


Andre.iffsky. 

a  tame  owl  sitting  on  one  of  the  rafters,  and  a  few  marten-skins 
were  hanging  on  a  cache.  I  bought  an  otter-skin  of  the  finest 
quality,  for  four  bunches  of  Circassian  tobacco.  Not  wishing  to 
camp  in  such  a  dirty  place,  we  proceeded  a  little  way  down  the 
river  with  our  guide,  and  camped. 

Monday,  \^th.  —  While  collecting  in  the  morning,  I  found  cow- 
slips in  blossom  on  I  he  marshes,  and  obtained  the  eggs  of  the 
beautiful  white-winged  gull.  The  long-continued  and  never-tir- 
ing head-wind  was  stronger  than  usual  this  morning.  To  avoid 
it.  we  entered  a  long  slough,  where  we  took  tea,  and  I  collected 
many  yellow  butterflies  {Picris  venosa  Scud.),  the  only  species 


THE   YUKON   TKRKITURY. 


23! 


which  I  noticed  on  the  Yukon  near  the  sea.  About  one  o'clock 
wo  emerged  from  the  slough,  ami  at  this  point  killed  several 
geese.  The  waves  were  very  high,  and  after  an  hour's  hard  pull- 
ing we  passed  the  mouth  of  the  Milavanoff  River,  and  finally 
reached  Aiidreaffsky  Fort.  It  was  quite  deserted.  The  .solitary 
fort,  with  the  windows  all  nailed  up,  the  bare  hills,  and  cloudy 
sky,  made  the  place  seem  more  lonely  and  dreary  than  ever. 
We  hauled  up  the  boat,  and  boiled  the  chynik,  and  rested  until 
the  wind  should  abate  a  little. 

Andreaffsky  was  built  in  the  form  of  a  square,  the  buildings 
making  two  of  the  sides,  and  a  stockade  the  other  two.  It  con- 
tained barracks,  a  store,  magazine,  cook-house  and  bath-house. 
It  was  erected  about  the  year  1853.  In  1855  it  was  the  scene  of 
a  mournful  tragedy.  There  was  formerly  an  I*:k(')gmut  village 
near  the  fort.  Several  of  the  natives  were  workmen  at  the  fort. 
No  trouble  had  ever  occurred.  Several  of  the  garrison  had  gone 
up  to  Nulato  with  the  annual  provision-boat,  and  only  the  bidar- 
shik  and  one  Russian,  besides  the  native  workmen,  were  left  ii\,the 
fort.  One  Friday  in  August,  the  natives  at'acked  the  Russians 
as  they  came  naked  out  of  the  bath,  and  killed  them  with  clubs 
and  knives.  A  Creole  boy  escaped  to  the  hills,  ami  finally  crossed 
the  portage  to  the  vicinity  of  St.  Michael's.  When  he  reached  that 
point  the  Uprovalisha  was  away,  and  his  secretary,  Ivan  Kogen- 
ikoff,  was  acting  in  his  stead. 

The  Russians  had  long  murmured  at  the  conduct  of  the  Com- 
pany, in  leaving  unavenged  the  Nulato  massacre.  The  oppor- 
tunity of  settling  accounts  with  the  natives  was  too  tempting 
to  resist.  Kogenikoff  and  Gregory  Ivanhofif,  with  two  Creoles, 
immediately  started  for  the  fort.  On  reaching  it  th.  found 
everything  in  confusion.  The  dead  bodies  lay  at  the  door  of 
the  bath-house.  The  natives,  not  knowing  how  to  u.sc  flour, 
had  merely  carried  off  the  sacks.  They  had  also  ripped  ojien 
the  beds,  and  carried  away  the  ticking,  while  the  mass  of 
flour  and  feathers  was  left  on  the  floor.  After  satisfying  them- 
selves that  there  was  no  living  thing  in  the  fort,  the  Ri  .sians 
started  for  the  village,  which  was  about  a  mile  off.  As  they  ap- 
proached, Kogenikoff  saw  a  man  standing  in  the  door  of  one  of  the 
houses  and  pointing  a  gun  at  the  approaching  party.  It  after- 
ward turned  out  that  the  gun  had  no  lock ;  but  not  knowing  this, 


232 


THE   YUKON   TERRITORY. 


lijllljl 


the  Russians  fired,  ami  killed  the  man.  The  natives,  who  wcro 
few  in  number,  came  rushing  out,  and  were  shot  down  wiihout 
mercy.  The  Creoles,  who,  when  aroused,  have  all  the  ferocity  of 
the  aboriginal  savage,  attacked  the  shaman  and  beat  out  his 
brains  with  clubs.  None  were  spared.  'Jhc  blood  shed  at  the 
fort  was  not  yet  dry,  and  the  infuriated  Russians  resolved  that 
the  authors  of  that  cowardly  outrage  should  be  e.xtcrminateil 
without  mercy.  When  they  stayed  their  hamls  the  work  was 
done.  I'\ithers,  mothers,  and  children  had  passed  their  "  evil 
quarter  of  an  hour."  The  result  was  wonderful.  l'*rom  that  day 
to  this  not  a  native  on  the  Lower  Yukon  has  lifted  his  hand 
against  the  whites.  The  bloody  lesson  was  not  thrown  away. 
The  strong  hand,  which  alone  commands  the  respect  of  savages, 
was  worth  a  thousand  missionaries.  To  this  day  the  natives  trav- 
elling on  the  river  near  the  fort  pass  by  on  the  other  side.  Large 
quantities  of  tobacco  and  other  property,  stolen  from  the  fort,  were 
found  in  the  village.  Around  the  necks  of  most  of  the  dead, 
crosses  were  found  hanging,  indicating  that  the  thieves  and  mur- 
derers were  baptized  converts  of  the  Yukon  Mission. 

The  only  articles  remaining  in  the  fort  at  the  time  of  our  visit 
were    three  six-jKninuer.^,  and  some  old  iron.     Toward  evening, 
though  the  river  vv'as  still  very  rough,  we  embarked,  and  by  keep- 
ing close  to  the  bank  managed  to  travel  several  miles  farther. 
The  white  dome  of  the  Kusilvak  mountain  loomed  up  grandly  to 
the  .southwest.     Just  south  of  it  is  a  shallow  slough  which  leads 
into  the  south  slough  of  the  delta.     This  is  navigable  only  for  j 
bidarkas.     The  trees  were  now  reduced  to  low  willows,  and  the 
level  character  of  the  country  to  the  north  and  west  showed  that 
we  had  passed  all  the  mountains.     A  few  low  hills  still  fringed 
the  right   bank,  but  the  general  level  of  the  country  was  only 
a  few  feet  above  the  sea.     We  finally  camped  on  the  bank  of  a| 
small    stream,  which    our    guide    said    was   called    I-lgg   River. 
The  evening  was  cold  and  raw,  the  sky  cloudy  and  sombre,  and  j 
the   vegetation    far   less    advanced   than   that   a   hundred  mile- 
inland.     Fragments  of  ice,  the  remains  of  huge  blocks  left  by  tlicl 
freshet,  still  lay  on  the  shore. 

Tuesday,    \6t/i.  —  The    whole    morning   we  pulled    against  : 
strong  steady  head-wind.     We  passed  into  a  narrow  slough,  and  I 
by  a  turn  to  the  northward  were  able  for  the  first  time  to  use  our 


TIIL   YUKON   TERRITORY. 


233 


i 


sail.  Convinced  that  wo  were  passiiij;  the  mouih  of  the  Kiisilvak, 
we  crossed  to  the  other  side  of  the  river.  'I'wo  hours  were  eon- 
Mimed  in  doinj^  this,  altlioii^h  we  made  at  least  three  knots  ami  a 
lialf  an  hour.  The  aspect  of  llic  country,  Hat,  marshy,  and 
iiuidily,  was  truly  desolate.  We  saw  immense  numbers  of  wild 
fowl  in  the  distance,  but  no  other  animals.  We  camped  on  the 
left  bank,  and  I  noticed  that  the  mice  in  winter,  crawling  alon;; 
the  surface  of  the  snow,  hatl  j^nawed  the  bark  from  the  willows 
full  six  feet  above  the  -ground.  This  would  indicate  that  the 
snow  falls  at  least  to  that  depth.  ;\  few  warblers  wi-re  buililing 
their  nests  in  the  thickets,  and  1  noticed  the  tracks  of  mink  along 
the  mudily  beach. 

1 1 'aims  liny,  xjt/i.  —  Our  guide  to  my  astonishment  insisted  on 
criissinj;  the  river  a;;ain.  As  none  of  us  understood  ;'ie  I're- 
UKMska  dialect,  we  were  unable  to  find  out  what  his  in:i:  .tions 
were.  About  noon  wc  stopped  at  a  small  island  and  oilected 
about  fifty  c«;j;s  of  the  water-hen  {^Ma^iis  siiTutot)  The)  were 
laid  under  loj^s,  without  any  lining  to  the  nest,  and  covered  caie- 
fully  with  dr)  ii.  .es  and  down.  The  jiarent  birds  flew  sv.icam- 
ing,  round  the  island,  out  of  gunshot.  About  half  a'l  hour  after, 
our  guide  brought  us  to  the  mouth  of  the  Uphoon!  I  rcco-nized 
the  place  immediately,  and  by  referring  to  my  vocabularies 
managed  to  make  out  that  he  had  supposed  this  was  our  desti- 
nation, and  that  he  knew  nothing  about  the  Kusilvak.  This  was 
a  great  disappointment  to  mc,  as  I  had  hoped  to  obtain  large 
numbers  of  the  eggs  and  skins  of  the  ICmperor  goose.  liowcvei, 
there  was  nothing  to  be  done  but  to  make  the  best  of  it.  I  paid 
him,  and  he  started  homeward,  while  we  kept  on  our  way  through 
tlie  Uphoon.  The  small  beaches  were  plentifully  strewn  with 
eggs.  The  most  common  were  those  of  Ihitchin's  goose,  the 
white-winged  gull,  and  the  pin-tail  duck.  I  had  instructed  Ku- 
rilla  in  the  manufacture  of  omelets,  and  tlu'v  now  formed  part 
of  every  meal.  The  egg-shells  were  carel'ully  emptied  with  a 
bK)\vpipe  anil  devoted  to  science,  while  the  contents  went  into 
the  frying-pan.  We  camped  on  a  high  bank,  which  bore  the  re- 
mains of  many  native  camp-fire.s,  and  just  before  turning  in  I  was 
fortunate  enough  to  shoot  a  fine  specimen  of  the  beautiful  red- 
necked loon.  The  Uphoon  is  an  excellent  collecting  ground,  but 
the  emperor  goose  is  seldom  seen  there. 


I'  '   n 


234 


THE   YUKON    TKRRITORY. 


Thursday,  \?>t/i.  — We  started  late,  after  unlimited  omelet,  and 
rowed  wiowly  through  the  various  windings  of  the  slough. 
Now  and  then  we  stopped  to  eollect  eggs  or  speeimens,  and  the 
boat  was  fairly  covered  with  our  feathered  prizes.  We  passed 
one  deserted  native  house,  and  about  dark  arrived  safely  at  Kul- 
lik.  This  settlement  consists  of  one  house,  built  by  a  Russian 
called  \n;inyan,  containing  a  living-room,  kitchen,  and  bath-room, 
under  one  roof;  a  single  Innuit  barrabora  stands  near  it,  and  a 
great  cache,  the  largest  in  the  country,  has  been  erected  behind 
the  house.  The  house  was  entirely  empty,  and  had  such  a  smoky 
smell  that  I  decided  to  sleep  in  the  tent,  and  only  to  do  my  bird- 


I 


i  ■;; 


t 

J  ■ ' 

l: 

;  , 

:  ;  ■ 

'  !' 

.    : 

Kiitlik 

skinning  inside,  where  there  was  room  to  spread  out  the  skins 
to  dry.  I  proposed  to  spend  several  days  here,  and  to  send 
the  Indians  out  shooting,  while  I  kept  at  work  preparing  the  speci- 
mens. Ananyan,  wiih  his  family,  was  away  in  the  Kusilvak,  where 
he  was  salting  chowichec  {Sahiio  oriaitalis  Pall.)  for  Step.inoff 

The  ne.\t  day  I  busied  myself  repacking  the  specimens  which 
had  been  collected  on  the  road.  I  sent  out  all  the  Indians  with 
liberal  supplies  of  powder  and  shot,  and  promised  ten  balls  as  a 
present  to  whoever  should  bring  in  one  of  the  much-desired  geese. 
I  blew  about  five  dozen  eggs  during  ihe  day  which  is  an  under- 
taking to  be  appreciated  only  by  those  who  have  tried  it.     To- 


I 


THE   YUKON    TERRITORY. 


235 


ctl  omelet,  and 
f  the  slough, 
iniuns,  and  the 
s.  Wo  passed 
safely  at  Kut- 
by  a  Russian 
and  bath-room, 
>  near  it,  and  a 
erected  behind 
d  such  a  smoky 
to  do  my  bird- 


V\ 


out  the  skins 

,  and   to   send 
aring  the  spcci- 
vusilvak,  where 
or  Stcpanoff. 
K-cimens  whii  li 

e  Indians  with 
ten  balls  as  a 
i-dcsired  geese, 

1  is  an  under- 
tried  it.     To- 


ward evening  it  rained,  and  I  moved  everything  from  the  tent 
into  the  house,  except  my  blankets.  The  men  came  back  loaded 
with  game,  and  the  indefatigable  Kun'lla,  with  an  unwonted  sniile 
on  his  sober  face,  untolded  a  piece  of  cotton  and  i)roiight  out  a 
magnificent  old  gander  of  the  right  sort.  The  goklen  tips  to  the 
snowy  feathers  of  the  head,  the  beautitul  "ashes-of-roses"  color 
of  the  body,  marked  with  half-moons  of  black,  gave  it  the  undis- 
puted right  to  its  proud  title  of  the  l^mperor,  or,  in  Russian, 
Cicsdr-kii. 


The  Emperor  unose. 

Tiie  following  day  and  the  one  after  that  were  spent  much 
in  the  same  way.  I  was  busy  preserving  and  packing  the 
skins,  while  the  Indians  were  constantly  out  gunning.  Sichirka 
added  another  goose  to  my  collection,  and  1  obtained  near  the 
house  several  pairs,  and  also  the  eggs  of  a  curlew  {Liiiiosii  timpyj^i- 
(i/is)  not  previously  found  on  the  American  continent.  On  Mon- 
day, Kun'lla  heated  the  bath-room,  and  we  all  took  a  steam  balh. 
In  the  evening  about  half  past  eleven  that  old  veti.ran  Telee/.hik 
arrived  from  the  Shiigeluk  with  a  boat-load  of  fiu-s.  lie  would 
only  stop  to  drink  tea,  however,  and  with  his  two  companions 
pushed  on  to  Pastolik.  He  had  obtained  about  a  thousand 
martens. 


V  !in 


2.;6 


THE   YUKON   TERRITORY. 


"i 


II 


Tuesday,  2id.  —  After  packing  up  all  the  collections,  I  con- 
cluded to  follow  Teleezhik  to  Pastolik.  We  arrived  there  safely, 
and  had  hardly  landed  our  cargo  before  a  strong  head-wind 
sprang  up,  so  that  we  had  been  just  in  time.  Pastolik  is  a  Una- 
leet  village  of  some  thirty  huts,  mostly  built  of  turf  and  driftwood. 
Just  now  it  was  without  inhabitants.  It  is  situated  on  the  shore 
of  a  wide  inlet,  into  which  the  Pastolik  River  empties.  The 
mouth  of  this  inlet  is  nearly  closed  by  a  bar  which  is  almost  dry 
at  low  tide.  Inside  of  the  bar  there  are  deep  places,  and  here  a 
beluga  fishery  is  carried  on  in  the  month  of  August.  The  beluga 
is  a  small  white  whale,  allied  to  the  sperm  whale  and  porpoise. 
They  come  into  the  shallow  water  to  breed,  and  are  prevented 
from  getting  out  of  the  inlet  by  the  bar.  When  the  tide  falls,  the 
natives  in  their  kyaks  attack  them  with  lances,  and  large  num- 
bers are  killed.  The  flesh  is  eaten,  and  the  blubber  and  oil  pre- 
served for  trade  and  winter  use.  The  length  of  these  animals 
seldom  exceeds  fifteen  feet,  and  a  large  one  will  weigh  about  two 
thousand  pounds.  I  counted  eighty  skulls  lying  about  the  huts, 
the  remains  of  the  fishery  of  the  previous  year.  The  teeth  of  the 
beluga  are  of  the  consistency  of  ivory,  and  are  extensively  used 
by  the  Innuit  in  making  small  carvings.  Birds,  seal,  deer,  and 
other  animals  are  imitated  with  some  skill  by  the  natives,  and 
many  articles  of  use  and  ornament  are  made  by  them  from  ivory. 
The  previous  year,  on  our  arrival  from  Nulato,  I  purchased  a 
large  number  of  these  articles.     An  awl  or  bodkin  is  here  reprc- 


Ivory  bodkin. 

sented.  The  larger  articles  of  ivory  are  made  from  walrus  tusks, 
which  are  obtained  by  trade  with  the  natives  of  the  northern 
coast.  In  July  and  September  a  seal  fishery,  similar  to  that  at 
Kegiktowruk,  is  carried  on  here,  and  many  are  secured  in  nets. 
These  nets  are  exceedingly  strong,  and  are  made  from  rcmni, 


Seine  needle. 


with  a  peculiar  needle,  which  is  here  represented.     The  Innuit 


THE  YUKON   TERRITORY. 


237 


women  are  extremely  expert  at  this  kind  of  work.  I  am  informed 
that  with  similar  nets,  during  the  moulting  season,  they  secure 
large  numbers  of  wild  fowl  and  also  many  arctic  hares  in  the  fall. 
During  the  moulting  season  they  obtain  many  skins  of  the  differ- 
ent species  of  divers,  by  driving  them  into  shallow  water  where 
they  cannot  dive,  and  spearing  them  with  bone  tridents.  Of  these 
skins  they  make  parkies  and  other  articles  of  clothing,  some  of 
which  are  very  tasteful. 

The  Innuit  have  also  a  custom  of  making,  on  flat  pieces  of 
bone,  rude  drawings  of  animals,  hunting  parties,  and  similar  things. 


t 


i 


I 


INNUIT  DRAWINGS   ON    BONE. 


The  Innuit 


Spearing  geese. 


Wolves  after  deer. 


Innuit  dance. 


Ueerhunting. 

These  drawings  are  analogous  to  those  discovered  in  France  in 
the  caves  of  Dordogne,  and  the  preceding  sketch  of  the  drawings 
on  cither  side  of  two  bone  knives  illustrates  their  general  character. 
I  have  seen  an  ivory  bow,  used  in  connection  with  a  drill,  and 
made  of  an  entire  walrus  tusk,  which  had  depicted  on  each  of 
the  four  sides  every  pursuit  followed  by  the  Innuit  from  birth  to 
interment.  These  facts  have  a  peculiar  interest  as  showing  some 
similarity  between   the  customs   of  the  picsent  Orarian   tribes 


238 


THE   YUKON   TERRITORY. 


and  those  of  the  ancient  European  cave-dwellers.  Similar  draw- 
ings are  common  everywhere  among  the  Innuit,  while  I  have 
never  seen  among  the  Tinneh  tribes  of  the  northwest  any  similar 
specimens  of  art.  Some  of  the  Innuit  tribes  to  the  southward 
exhibit  much  more  ingenuity  in  such  matters  than  those  of  Nor- 
ton Sound  and  the  vicinity. 

Back  of  Pastolik  are  extensive  marshes  bounded  by  the  low- 
range  of  the  Pastolik  Hills,  while  at  their  foot  the  Pastoliak 
River  flows,  emptying  into  Pastol  Bay.  These  marshes  are  the 
favorite  haunts  of  myriads  of  wild  fowl. 

IVaiticsdciy,  24///.  —  This  morning  an  unexpected  misfortune 
occurred.  The  strong  west  wind  raised  the  water  so  high  that  it 
not  only  invaded  our  tent  near  the  shore,  but  surrounded  the 
boxes  of  birdskins  before  we  becan^.c.  aware  of  it,  and  I  was 
obliged  to  empty  them,  unpack  every  individual  specimen,  and  dry 
it  in  the  sun.  This  was  fortunately  accomplished  and  the  speci- 
n^ns  repacked,  when  clouds  came  up  and  it  began  to  rain.  From 
the  marshes  my  Indians  obtained  many  fine  birds  and  eggs, 
including  several  specimens  of  the  exquisite  Sabine's  gull  {Xniia 
Sabinii),  and  a  pair  of  Emperor  geese.  This  is  nearly  the  most 
northern  point  reached  by  the  latter  species. 

A  solitary  native  arrived  in  a  kyak  at  night,  and  reported 
others  on  the  way.  I  picked  up  near  the  village  a  large  portion 
of  the  skull  of  the  extinct  elephant  {li/tp/uu  firiviigaiiiis).  These 
bones  are  not  so  common  as  the  teeth  and  tusks,  being  f  )und  on 
the  surface  only,  and  usually  much  decayed ;  whde  the  bones  of 
the  musk-ox  and  fossil  buffalo  found  in  the  same  situations  are 
much  better  preserved,  and  sometimes  retain  some  of  the  ani- 
mal matter  in  the  bone.  The  natives  have  no  tradition  of  any 
other  large  animal  than  the  reindeer  and  moose,  and  regard  the 
elephant  and  musk-ox  bones  as  the  remains  of  dead  "  devils." 
The  tusks  are  not  so  well  preserved  as  those  found  in  Siberia, 
which  are  usually  buried  in  the  earth.  The  former  are  black- 
ened, split,  and  weathered,  and  contain  little  ivory  in  a  state  fit 
for  use,  though  the  Innuit  of  the  Arctic  coast  occasionally  find 
them  in  such  preservation  that  they  make  kantags  or  dishes  of 
the  ivory,  according  to  Simpson. 

On  Friday,  Goldsen  arrived  in  a  three-holed  bidarka  with  his  son 
and  an  Innuit  lad.     He  reported  that  Milavdnotif  was  at  Kiitlik. 


ii 


THE  YUKON   TERRITORY. 


239 


Saturday,  zjth.  —  The  wind  being  nearly  fair,  all  hands  loaded 
up,  and  we  started  for  the  Redoubt.  I  had  hoped  to  get  a  larger 
boat  at  Pastulik,  fearing  to  trust  my  little  bidarra  to  the  waves  of 
the  open  sea,  but  there  were  neither  boats  nor  natives  at  hand. 
We  sailed  well,  and  soon  outstripped  Teleezhik,  though  the  nim- 
ble bidarka  led  the  fleet.  We  drank  tea  on  the  shore,  about 
ten  miles  from  I'astolik,  and  then  pushed  on  toward  Point  Roma- 
noff. Goldsen  arrived  at  this  point  some  time  ahead  of  us,  as 
it  had  become  quite  calm. 

On  reaching  the  village,  near  the  solitary  hill  which  marks 
the  point  (which  is  the  Cape  Shallow  Water  of  Cook),  I  was 
about  to  land,  when  Goldsen  cried  out  to  me,  "Hurry  up  I  Mr. 
Doctor,  don't  stop  for  a  moment,  there  are  two  American  ves- 
sels at  the  Redoubt  I "  My  joy  and  excitement  can  hardly  be 
described.  Our  ignorance  of  any  details  only  added  to  it.  The 
news  was  obtained  through  a  native  who  had  been  to  the  Canal, 
and  had  only  seen  the  vessels.  I  immediately  proposed  to  Gold- 
sen  to  put  his  native  into  the  bidarra,  while  one  of  my  Indians 
would  take  the  other  [laddle,  and  I  would  accompany  him  in  the 
swifter  bidarka  to  the  Redoubt.  This  arrangement  was  soon 
completed,  and  I  left  Kun'lla  to  bring  the  bidarrd  to  St.  Michael's. 
We  touched  at  Pikmikt;ilik,  and  entering  the  Canal  took  tea  on 
the  bank.  While  the  chynik  was  boiling  I  took  a  bath  in  one  of 
the  lagoons,  and  otherwise  prepared  myself  to  meet  civilized 
beings  once  more.     After  tea  we  pulled  vigorously  all  night. 

Sunday,  2St/t.  —  About  three  o'clock  in  the  morning  we  reached 
the  northern  mouth  of  the  Canal,  and  saw  a  small  schooner  lying 
in  the  bay.  To  the  eastward  a  bidarra  was  pulling  for  the  Canal, 
but  seemed  rather  to  avoid  us.  Taking  Goldsen's  glass,  I  made 
out  one  white  man  in  it,  and  the  round  sides  of  two  barrels  rose 
conspicuously  above  the  gunwale.  I  felt  sick  as  I  sat  down, 
knowin  ,  hat  the  cargo  must  consist  of  rum,  and  seeing  already 
the  beginning  of  evils  whose  future  growth  none  could  estimate. 

We  pulled  up  to  the  landing  near  the  boat-house.  I'^vcrything 
seemed  much  as  usual,  and  everybody  was  evidently  asleep.  My 
eye  soon  fell  on  a  pile  of  boxes,  which  were  not  of  Russian  make, 
and  just  beyond  was  a  lot  of  American  tin  cups.  I  hastened  to 
the  house  on  the  point,  which  was  evidently  occupied.  Entering, 
I  nearly  stumbled  over  a  sleeper  on  the  floor.     He  rose  and  came 


240 


THE  YUKON   TERRITORY. 


11 : 


out  into  the  light,  and  I  was  soon  shaking  hands  and  cxchangins? 
hurried  interrogatories  with  Mike  Lebarge.  The  unmixed  dchght 
with  which  I  welcomed  his  familiar  face  can  hardly  be  appre- 
ciated. I  found,  to  my  own  astonishment,  that  speaking  Eftglish, 
after  a  year  of  nothing  but  Russian  and  Indian  dialects,  was  any- 
thing but  easy,  and  for  several  days  I  was  obliged  to  resort  to 
Russian  when  fluency  was  required.  The  news,  much  of  it  eigh- 
teen months  old,  was  all  news  to  me,  and  it  was  weeks  before  I 
gained  anything  like  a  comprehension  of  the  events  which  had 
occurred  in  the  civilized  world  since  I  last  heard  from  it.  My 
only  disappointment  was  that  they  brought  me  not  a  single  home 
letter.  All  of  these  had  been  sent  to  Sitka  or  elsewhere,  in  ig- 
norance of  my  whereabouts.  I  had  not  heard  from  home  for 
nearly  two  years. 

Captain  Smith  had  left  with  his  vessel  for  Grantley  Harbor.  He 
would  return  to  St.  Michael's,  and  I  made  the  necessary  prepara- 
tions for  accompanying  him  to  California.  I  must  pass  over  the 
events  of  the  next  month  at  the  Redoubt.  Several  trading  com- 
panies, beside  that  which  Mike  represented,  intended  to  send  par- 
ties into  the  country.  The  vessel  in  the  bay  was  principally  loaded 
with  liquor,  which  had  in  some  mysterious  way  eluded  the  vigi- 
lance of  the  United  States  officials  at  Sitka  ;  she  belonged  to  one 
of  these  companies.  Some  time  after,  the  vessel  arrived  which 
had  been  sent  to  take  back  those  Russians  who  desired  to  return 
to  Russia.  Very  few  went  in  her,  as  most  of  them  were  hired  by 
the  new  trading  companies.  To  Mr.  George  R.  Adams,  and  Cap- 
tain Riedell,  of  the  brig  Constantine,  I  was  under  many  obligations. 
On  the  2 1st  of  July  the  schooner  Frances  L.  Steele  arrived  from 
Bering  Strait  with  Captain  Smith  on  board.  On  the  9th  of  Au- 
gust, having  shipped  the  collections,  I  embarked  for  San  Fran- 
cisco via  the  Aleutian  Islands.  We  touched  at  St.  George's 
Island  and  some  of  the  Aleutians  on  our  way  to  California. 

The  incidents  of  the  voyage  need  not  be  recounted  here.  It 
is  sufficient  to  say  that  I  obtained  abundance  of  evidence  that 
during  1868  great  abuses  were  prevalent  in  the  new  territory. 
One  trading  company  in  particular,  hoping,  by  its  large  capital 
and  connection  with  the  officers  of  the  defunct  Russian  Company, 
to  crush  all  smaller  concerns,  had  not  hesitated  at  force,  fraud 
and  corruption,  to  attain  these  ends.      It  would  be  impossible  to 


% 


THE   YUKON   TERRITORY. 


241 


believe  in  the  probity  of  some  of  the  officials  (since  removed) 
at  Sitka,  as  it  was  impossible  to  avoid  seeing  the  outrages  which 
liad  been  committed.  One  instance  of  the  temper  of  these 
traders  will  suffice.  A  party,  consisting  of  several  German  Jews, 
one  Russian,  and  some  other  foreigners,  had  staked  out  the  places 
where  the  fur  seal  come  up  on  the  island  of  St.  George,  and 
declared  their  intention  of  holding  these  tracts  of  beach  under 
the  houKstead  laws  (!)  by  force,  if  necessary.  Two  unarmed 
Americans,  who  had  served  in  the  army  and  navy  during  the  late 
war,  and  who  had  a  permit  to  seal  from  the  Sitka  authorities, 
having  trespassed  on  the  land  staked  out,  were  set  upon  by  a  party 
of  armed  natives,  led  by  a  member  of  the  company  referred 
to,  were  tied  hand  and  foot,  and  left  all  night  in  a  mud  hovel  used 
for  storing  salt.  The  next  day  they  were  released  on  condition 
that  the  trespass  should  not  be  repeated. 

In  their  present  condition  the  Creoles  are  unfit  to  e.xercise  the 
franchise,  as  American  citizens.  If  a  territorial  government 
should  be  granted  to  the  handful  of  Americans  now  resident  in 
the  territory,  it  would  simply  give  the  stronger  companies  the 
power  to  crush  and  ruin  the  weaker  ones,  and  a  full  opportunity 
of  smuggling  and  selling  liquor  would  be  afforded  to  the  former. 
The  present  system  of  a  military  government,  with  honest  officers, 
is  unquestionably  the  best,  until  the  proper  reservations  are  made 
and  regulations  in  regard  to  trading  are  enacted.  The  territory 
is  not  likely  to  be  populous  fo''  many  years,  and  should  rather  be 
regarded  as  a  great  storehouse  of  fish,  timber,  and  fur  ;  from 
which  American  citizens  alone  should  be  allowed  to  draw  sup- 
plies, under  proper  restrictions  and  on  payment  of  reasonable 
taxes.  The  country,  under  a  monopoly,  afforded  one  hundred 
thousand  silver  rubles  a  year,  taxes,  to  the  Russian  crown,  and, 
with  the  development  of  other  resources  than  the  traffic  in 
furs,  can  certainly  afford  as  much  to  the  United  States.  I  speak 
from  no  uncertainty,  but  from  positive  knowledge  ;  I  believe  that 
a  proper  and  not  onerous  system  of  taxation  would  afford  two 
hundred  and  fifty  thousand  dollars  in  gold  per  annum. 

It  is  but  reasonable  to  suppose  that  a  territory  separated  by  sea 
and  foreign  territory  from  the  United  States  —  being  in  point  of 
fact  a  colony  —  should  need,  and  be  the  subject  of,  special  legisla- 
tion, differing  in  many  particulars  from  that  applied  to  territories 
16 


242 


THE   YUKON    TERRITORY. 


1.1 


li.'il 


which  are  merely  continuations  of  densely  populated  districts 
under  State  jurisdiction. 

I  have  seen  with  surprise  and  regret  that  men  whose  fore- 
fathers wielded  the  axe  in  the  forests  of  Maine,  or  gathered 
scanty  crops  on  the  granite  hillsides  of  Massachusetts,  have  seen 
fit  to  throw  contempt  and  derision  on  the  acquisition  of  a  great 
territory  naturally  far  richer  than  that  in  which  they  themselves 
originated,  principally  on  the  ground  that  it  is  a  "cold"  country. 
This  complaint  is  but  half  true  to  begin  with,  since  on  half  of  the 
coast  of  the  new  territory  the  thermometer  has  never  been  known 
to  fall  below  zero.  Icebergs  are  unknown  in  Alaska  from  Dixon's 
Entrance  to  Bering  Strait,  and  no  polar  bear  ever  came  within 
a  thousand  miles  of  Sitka.  On  the  other  hand,  has  the  race  of 
hardy  pioneers  died  out  among  us  ?  Do  we,  as  a  nation,  sigh  only 
for  indolent  siestas  in  the  canebrakes  of  Cuba  .■'  In  a  country 
where  all  that  we  honor  and  respect  has  grown  from  the  efforts 
of  those  whose  energy,  fostered  by  conflict  with  the  elements, 
has  made  a  garden  of  the  rock,  turned  the  forest  into  fruitful 
fields,  and  drawn  the  precious  minerals  from  the  flinty  bosom 
of  the  earth,  there  can  be  but  one  answer  to  such  a  question. 

We  have  bought  for  a  nominal  price  the  key  to  the  North 
Pacific.  It  can  no  longer  be  said  that  three  ironclads  can  block 
ade  our  entire  western  coast.  Two  hundred  and  fifty  years  hence 
there  may  be  a  new  New  England  where  there  is  now  a  track- 
less forest.  The  time  may  come  when  we  shall  call  on  our  Pacific 
fishermen  to  man  our  fleets,  on  the  lumbermen  of  Alaska  and 
our  hardy  northern  trappers  to  don  the  blue,  and  strike  another 
blow  for  unity  and  freedom.  The  oak  must  weather  the  storms 
of  many  winters  before  it  gains  maturity.  Alaska  is  not  a  Cali- 
fornia, where  cities  arise  in  a  night,  and  may  pass  away  in  a  day. 
Meanwhile  we  mus*^  be  patient. 

We  entered  the  Golden  Gate  on  the  29th  of  September.  I 
cannot  close  this  partial  record  of  my  experience  in  the  north, 
without  a  word  of  acknowledgment  to  those  Californian  friends 
who  made  my  welcome  back  so  warm.  The  friendship  of  Cali- 
fornians,  easily  acquired,  is  as  precious  as  their  own  gold,  and 
as  enduring  as  their  Sierras.  When  I  stepped  on  board  the 
steamer,  eastward  bound,  I  felt  almost  as  if  I  were  leaving  rather 
than  approaching  home. 


ted  districts 


PART    II. 


GEOGRAPHY    HISTORY,  INHABITANTS,  AND  RESOURCES 

OF  ALASKA. 


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CHAPTER    I. 

General  geographical  and  topographical  description  of  Alaska.  —  Adjacent  seas.  — 
(Jrmips  of  islands. — Coasts  and  hirbors.  —  Kivcr  system.  —  Ocean  currents. — 
Mountain  chains  and  peaks.  —  Area  —  Earlier  maps.  —  Review  of  some  recent 
maps.  —  The  authorities  for  the  present  map.  —  I'icid  for  future  explorations. 


THK  United  States  territory  known  by  the  name  of  Alaska 
is  bounded,  in  general  terms,  by  the  Frozen  or  Arctic  Ocean 
on  the  north,  the  Pacific  Ocean,  Herintj  Sea  and  Strait  on  the 
west  and  south,  and  the  Hudson  Hay  territory  on  the  east.  The 
exact  boundaries  as  laid  down  in  the  treaty  of  cession,  and  pro- 
claimed June  20,  1S67,  are  as  follows:  — 

"  Commencing  from  the  southernmost  point  of  the  island  known  as 
Prince  of  Wales'  Island,  which  point  lies  in  the  parallel  of  54°  40'  north 
latitude,  and  between  the  131st  and  the  1331I  degree  of  west  longitude 
(meridian  of  (Ireenwich),  the  said  line  shall  ascend  to  the  north  along 
the  channel  called  Portland  Channel,  as  far  as  the  point  of  the  con- 
tinent where  it  strikes  the  56th  degree  of  north  latitude  ;  from  this  last- 
mentioned  point  the  line  of  demarcation  shall  follow  the  summit  of  the 
mountains  situated  parallel  to  the  coast  as  far  as  the  point  of  intersec- 
tion of  the  141st  degree  of  west  longitude  (of  the  same  meridian)  ;  and 
finally,  from  the  said  point  of  intersection,  the  said  meridian  line  of 
the  141st  degree,  in  its  prolongation  as  far  as  the  Frozen  Ocean. 

"  With  reference  to  the  line  of  demarcation  laid  down  in  tlie  preced- 
ing article,  it  is  understood,  — 

"  1st.  That  the  island  called  Prince  of  Wales'  Island,  sliall  belong 
wiiolly  ....  to  the  United  States. 

"  2d.  That  whenever  the  summit  of  the  mountains,  which  extend  in  a 
direction  parallel  to  the  coast,  from  the  56th  degree  of  north  latitude  to 
the  point  of  intersection  of  the  141st  degree  of  west  longitude,  shall 
prove  to  be  at  the  distance  of  more  than  ten  marine  leagues  from  the 
ocean,  the  limit  between  the  British  possessions  ....  and  the  posses- 
sions ceded  by  this  convention  shall  be  formed  by  a  line  parallel  to  the 


1 1 


vr^ 


246 


C.EOGRAFHY  OK  ALASKA. 


winding  of  the  coast,  and  which  shall  never  exceed  the  distance  of  ten 
marine  leagues*  therefrom. 

"The  western  limit,  within  which  the  territories  and  dominion  con- 
veyed are  contained,  passes  through  a  point  in  Uchring's  Straits  on  tht- 
parallel  of  65°  30'  north  latitude,  at  its  intersection  Ity  the  meridian 
which  passes  midway  between  the  island  of  Krusenstcrn,  or  Ignalook, 
and  the  island  of  Ratmanoff,  or  Nunarbook,  and  proceeds  due  north 
without  limitation,  into  the  same  Frozen  Ocean. 

"The  same  western  limit,  beginning  at  the  same  initial  point,  proceeds 
thence  in  a  course  nearly  southwest,  through  Uchring's  Straits  and  Heh- 
ring's  Sea,  so  as  to  pass  midway  between  the  northwest  point  of  the 
island  of  St.  Lawrence,  and  the  southeast  point  of  Cape  Choukotski,  to 
the  meridian  of  172°  west  longitude,  thence,  from  the  intersection  of  that 
meridian,  in  a  southwesterly  direction,  so  as  to  pass  midway  between 
the  island  of  Attou,  and  the  Copper  Island  of  the  Komandorski  couplet 
or  group  in  the  North  Pacific  Ocean,  to  the  meriilian  of  193°  west  longi- 
tude, so  as  to  include  in  the  territory  conveyed  the  whole  of  the  Aleutian 
Islands  east  of  that  meridian." 

Adjacent  Seas.  —  The  most  extensive  of  the  adjacent  as  is  the 
North  Pacific  Ocean.  The  dividing-line  between  it  ;,  1  Bering 
Sea  may  be  said  to  be  the  chain  of  the  Catherina  Archipelago, 
from  the  most  western  point  of  Aliaska  Peninsula  to  Cape  Kam- 
chatka. That  great  extent  of  water  lying  north  of  lat.  56, 
between  the  Kadiak  group  and  the  Alexander  Archipelago,  has 
been  named  by  the  Superintendent  of  the  Coast  Survey  the 
Gulf  of  Alaska. 

Bcrimr  Sea  extends  between  Kamchatka  and  Eastern  Siberia 
on  the  west,  and  America  on  the  east ;  from  the  Aleutian  Islands 
to  Bering  Strait.  It  has  two  principal  eastward  prolongations,  — 
Bristol  Bay  and  Norton  Sound;  and  two  to  the  west, —  Ana- 
dyr Gulf  and  the  Gulf  of  Kamchatka.  Passing  through  Bering 
Strait,  which  separates  Asia  and  America,  we  come  into  the 
Frozen  Sea  or  Arctic  Ocean.  Here  the  coasts  are  even  and  uni- 
form, and  the  only  arm  of  this  sea  which  is  of  any  size  is  Kotze- 
bue  Sound,  northeast  of  Bering  Strait.  The  northern  portion  of 
this  ocean  is  as  yet  unexplored. 

Groups  of  Islands.  —  The  North  Pacific  rivals  its  southern  por- 
tion in  the  size  of  its  archipelagoes.  The  magnificent  group  of 
eleven  hundred  islands,  which  guards  the  American  coast  from 

•  That  is  to  say,  30  geographical  miles,  or  about  34|Vir  English  statute  miles. 


!       ;1: 


l!'li!'! 


GEOGKAI'IIY   OF   ALASKA. 


247 


itancc  of  toi) 


n'     as  is  the 


tatute  miles. 


Dixon  Kntrancc  in  54°  40'  to  Cross  Sound  in  lat.  sS""  25'  N., 
has  received  the  name  of  the  Alexander  Anliipela^j^o  from 
the  L'liited  States  Coast  Survey,  in  honor  of  the  l-Juperor  of 
Russia. 

The  islands  southeast  of  the  peninsula  of  Ali.iska,  between  Ion. 
151  and  158  W.,  are  known  as  the  Kadidk  Archipilai:;o,  from  the 
name  of  tlie  principal  island. 

The  j;reat  chain  of  islands  from  Ion.  158  to  195'  W.  was 
appropriately  named  by  Forsler  in  1786  the  Catlurina  Air/ii- 
ft/d^ifo,  in  honor  of  the  enliy;htencd  and  liberal  ICmpress  Cathe- 
rine II.  of  Russia. 

Tiie  most  westerly  of  the  j;roups  included  in  this  archipelago 
is  tliat  known  as  the  Komaiuiorski  or  Coiniiiandir s  Islands,  from 
Commander  Hering,  who  died  upon  one  of  them.  Their  situation 
is  about  lat.  55°  N.  and  Ion.  193  '  \V.  They  are  two  in  number. 
The  largest  is  known  as  Inriiii^  Island,  and  the  smaller  and  more 
cistern  as  Copper  {Mcdni)  Island. 

The  chain  between  Ion.  163'  and  188'  W.  bears  the  general 
name  of  the  Alcntian  Islands,  from  the  term  Aleuts,  ajiplied  by 
the  Russians  to  their  original  inhabitants.  They  are  divided  into 
several  grou,  s.  Those  west  of  Ion.  185°  W.  are  called  the  Nearer 
(AY/;/////)  Islan  Is.  They  comprise  ..•]////,  which  is  the  largest, 
Agattii,  or  the  Crooked  {Kn{i^li)  Island,  and  three  small  islets 
known  as  the  Snnic/ii,  from  Snnil:,  the  feast  on  the  seventh 
Thursday  after  l-laster,  on  which  day  they  wen-  discovered. 

The  group  ne.\t  east  of  the  Nearer  Islands,  between  Ion.  185 
and  180°  W.,  is  known  as  the  Rat  {Kin'si)  Islands.  They  are  about 
fifteen  in  number,  large  and  small.  The  most  important  arc 
IlotildiT,  Big  and  Little  Gut  {Kccska)  Islands,  Little  Net  {Sntkin) 
Island,  Rat  {Kra'sa)  Island,  Anichitka  Island,  and  the  Island  of 
Seven  Peaks  {Si'misopochnoi). 

The  next  group,  from  Ion.  180°  to  172°  W.,  bears  the  name  of 
the  Andndnofski  Islands,  after  Andreanoff,  their  discoverer. 
There  are  about  thirty  of  them.  The  largest  is  Atka,  and,  in  the 
ortlcr  of  their  size,  Addkli,  Tdnaj^a,  Kdnaga,  Anilia,  S^i^naw,  Sit- 
kiii,  or  Great  Net  Island,  Burnt  {Gonloi)  Island,  Tdnara,  Tagaldxa, 
Vitliik,  Undlga,  Amdtignak,  and  Kavdlay.  The  last  four,  with  a 
number  of  small  islets,  are  sometimes  called  the  Dt'laroff  Islands, 
from  their  discoverer.    With  Burnt  Island  they  are  separated  from 


w 


m: 


248 


GEOGRAPHY  OF  ALASKA. 


>hI1u 


lillH'i 


the  rest  of  the  group  by  the  Tdna^a  Pass.     Between  Amlia  and 
Seguam  is  situated  the  rocky  and  dangerous  Si'gunfn  Pass. 

Between  Amukhta  Pass  (Ion.  172°  VV)  and  False  or  Isanotski 
Pass  (Ion.  163°  20'  W.)  lie  the  Fox  {Lccsi)  Islands.  This  is  the 
largest  of  the  four  Aleutian  groups.  It  contains  thirty-one 
islands,  more  or  less,  including  the  largest  in  the  Catherinu  Archi- 
pelago. The  principal  are,  in  order  of  size,  Unimah,  Unaldshka, 
Uniiiak,  Akiiidii,  Ak/iiin,  Yittuiska,  Amukhta,  Chiigiitgan,  Kiigdl- 
ga,  TigdUa,  Avatdiiak,  Ukamak*  Ulidlga,  Spa'rkiii,  and  the  cele- 
brated volcano  islands  of  St.  John  the  Theologian  {Joanna  Bogos- 
lova)  and  the  Four  Craters.  Between  Unimak  and  Akhun  is  the 
Unimak  Pass,  the  best  passage  for  vessels  bound  for  Bering  Sea. 

East  of  Unimak,  the  southern  coast  of  Aliaska  is  liberally 
fringed  with  islands.  A  group  comprising  i'uga,  A^agdi,  lYiii- 
niak,  Tidkinak,  and  a  number  of  others  unnamed  on  the  Russian 
chart,  is  called  the  Shuniagin  Islands,  from  the  name  of  a  sailor 
of  Bering's  expedition,  who  died  and  was  buried  there. 

The  Kadidk  ArcJiipclago  ( onshta  of  Kadidk,  Afogndk,  Tugidak, 
Sitkinak,  Marmot  {h'rdskic)  Island,  Spruce  ( Yehkiiv)  Island, 
Woody  (Li'snoi)  Island,  Cliirikoff  \ox  Ukaviok)  Island,  named  after 
its  discoverer,  and  many  smaller  islands.  A  small  group  north- 
west of  Chi'rikoff  Island  is  known  as  the  Sc'niidi  Islands  ;  another 
in  the  mouth  of  Cook's  Inlet,  as  the  Barren  {Bezplodnoi)  Islands; 
northeast  of  these,  a  group  of  three  is  called  the  Cliugatz  Islands.\ 

The  Alexander  Archipelago  will  be  described  in  connection 
with  that  part  of  the  coast. 

In  Bering  Sea  (lat.  57^  N.,  Ion.  169^  30'  W.)  we  find  the  Priby- 
loff  Islands,  so  named  after  their  discoverer.  They  comprise  four 
small  islands :  St.  Paul,  St.  George,  Walrus  {I\Ior::lu)zui),  and 
Beaver  {Bobrtnvi)  Island.  These  are  the  fur-seal  islands.  North 
of  the  Prfbylotif  Islands  (lat.  60°  30'  N.  and  Ion.  173°  W.)  is  situ- 
ated the  St.  Mattheiu  group,  containing  St.  ]\Iattlu\v,  Pinnacle, 
and  Hall  islands.  These  are  uninhabited,  rocky,  and  precipitous. 
It  is  said  that  a  few  Russians,  left  here  by  the  Company  to  collect 
sealskins  during  the  winter  of  1816,  all  died  of  starvation.     On 


*  In  the  mouth  of  IJnimak  P.iss.  Usually  but  incorrectly  placed  on  the  charts  as 
Ouganiok.    Ckiitnol:  is  one  name  for  Chirikoff  Island  of  the  Kadiak  Archipelago. 

t  Not  to  be  confounded  with  the  islands  which  thiong  Chugdch  Gull,  or  Prince 
William  Sound. 


GEOGRAPHY  OF   ALASKA. 


249 


;n  Anilia  and 
/  Pass. 

c  or  hatwtski 
This  is  the 
lis  thirty-one 
therinu  Archi- 
(',  L'liahis/ika, 
iiigaii,  Kiigdl- 
,  and  the  ccle- 
Joanna  Bogos- 

Akhiin  is  the 
•  Bcrinj;  Sea. 
;a  is  liberally 
,  Nagdi,  Nii'i- 
n  the  Russian 
inie  of  a  sailor 
;rc. 

'Hiik,  Tiigidak, 
I'hki'v)  Island, 
d,  named  after 

group  north- 
iiids ;  another 

iiioi)  Islands; 
igat.':  Islauih.] 
in  connection 

nd  the  Pribj'- 
comprise  four 
orzIurMi),  and 
ands.  North 
3°  W.)  is  situ- 
hcii\  Pinnacle, 
d  precipitous, 
any  to  collect 
xrvation.     On 

:1  on  tlic  charts  as 

Arcliipclapo. 
;h  Gulf,  or  Triucc 


the  other  hand,  the  whalers  ussert  that  St.  Matthew  is  full  of 
white  bears,  and  call  it,  for  that  reason,  Bear  Island.  St.  Mat- 
thew is  on  the  line  which  marks  the  southern  limit  of  floating 
ice  in  large  fields.  Small  (piantities  may  be  found  south  of  it, 
but  not  so  as  to  endanger  navigation,  even  in  mid-winter.  This 
ice  line  extends  from  Cape  St.  Thaddeus,  on  the  coast  of  Kam- 
chatka, to  the  St.  Matthew  group,  and  in  a  southeast  direction, 
finally  touching  the  northern  shores  of  15ristol  Hay.  A  little  to 
the  south  of  east  of  the  last  group,  .-.cparated  from  the  continent  by 
I'.tolin  Strait,  is  the  large  and  unexplored  island  of  Nunivak.  In 
Ion.  170°  W.  and  lat.  6^°  30'  N.  is  situated  the  large  island  of  .SV. 
Laivraicc.  The  latitude  which  Bering  gives  for  the  island  which 
he  so  named  (64''  30')  has  raised  a  doubt  as  '.o  its  identity  with 
the  one  which  we  call  St.  Lawrence.  It  is  ihe  Anderson  Island 
of  Cook,  and  as  it  is  mostly  low,  with  a  number  of  prominent 
hills,  it  was  suj)])oscd  by  the  early  discoverers,  who  saw  it  in 
thick  weather,  to  be  a  group  of  several  islands.  There  is  a  small 
cluster  of  rocks  close  in,  south  of  the  east  cape  (which  has  been 
called  Cape  Anderson),  known  as  the  Pinik  Islands.  St.  Lawrence 
is  known  to  the  Tuski  as  Iivorien.  Then,  is  a  large  island  in 
the  head  of  the  Gulf  of  Kamchatka,  which  the  Russians  call 
Karaginski  Island,  from  its  discoverer,  Karagin.  There  are  also  a 
lew  small  islands  to  the  northeast  of  it. 

In  Bering  Strait  ('.at.  63°  58'  30"  N.,  Ion.  167°  58'  W.)  is  a  small 
inhabited  island,  c;;llcd  Ckivok  by  the  native*,  generally  charted 
as  King  hiai:  i.     It  rises  about  six  hundred  feet  above  the  sea. 

The  Dioniedes  arc  two  small  islands  in  the  middle  of  Bering 
Strait.  Between  them  passes  the  boundary  line  between  Russian 
and  American  territory.  The  Russian  island  is  called  Ratnidnojf 
or  Imiklit,  and  the  American  goes  by  the  name  of  Kn'isenstern  or 
lugdliuk. 

A  few  miles  southward  lies  the  Fairxvay  Rock,  in  lat.  65°  38' 
42"  N.  and  Ion.  168'  ^3'  42"  W.  All  these  islets  are  inhabited, 
and  the  natives  are  known  as  Okee-(')gmuts. 

In  the  Arctic  Ocean,  recent  discoveries  by  American  whalers 
show  the  existence  of  an  island  or  large  extent  of  land,  of  which 
the  west  cape  (lat.  70"  46'  N.  and  Ion.  178°  30'  \V.)  has  received 
the  name  of  Cape  TJtomas,  and  the  southeast  point  (lat.  70^  40' 
and  Ion.  178^  51'  W.)  that  of  Cape  Ifazuaii,  from  the  discov- 
32 


"v:\ 


250 


GEOGRAPHY  OF   ALASKA. 


crer,  Captain  Long  of  the  bark  Nile.  Captain  Raynor  found 
the  southeast  extremity  to  be  in  Ion.  176'  40'  W.,  and  Captain 
Bliven  of  the  Nautilus  traced  the  land  as  far  north  as  lat.  72^  N. 
without  observing  its  northward  termination.  This  discovery 
is  elsewhere  spoken  of  at  length,  and  has  appropriately  received 
the  name  of  Wraugcll  Land.  To  the  eastward,  Captain  Kel- 
lett,  R.  N.,  discovered  an  island  in  lat.  71'  20'  N.  and  Ion.  175"  16' 
W.,  which  he  landed  upon  and  called  Herald  Island.  Another 
island  was  reported  to  have  been  seen  by  him  August  17,  1849, 
and  was  called  Plover  Island.  The  latter  has  not  since  been  con- 
firmed. Captain  Raynor  reports  another  island  in  lat.  70^  N.,  to 
the  eastward  of  Herald  Island,  and  bearing  W.N.W.  from  Point 
Barrow.  A  fertile  field  for  discovery  is  here  laid  open  for  Amer- 
ican explorers. 

Coasts  and  Haibors.  —  It  would  be  out  of  place,  and  will  not 
here  be  attempted,  to  give  a  minute  description  of  the  labyrinth 
of  bays,  channels,  sounds,  and  straits  which  are  found  in  the 
Alexander  Archipelago.  The  briefest  enumeration  possible  of 
the  principal  points  of  interest  is  all  that  belongs  here.  For 
more  minute  inquiry  the  investigator  is  referred  to  the  charts  of 
Tebenkoff  and  Vancouver,  to  the  works  of  the  latter,  and  those  of 
Cook  and  Mcares.  All  that  most  readers  will  care  to  know  will 
be  found  in  the  "Coast  Pilot  of  Alaska,"  recently  published  by  the 
Coast  Survey,  and  with  it  much  other  detailed  information  derived 
from  the  works  of  the  older  navigators. 

The  Great  Archipelago  of  I\I  'ares  extends  from  the  head  of 
Puget  Sound  to  the  head  of  Lynn  Channel  and  Cross  Sound. 
That  part  of  it  which  has  received  the  name  of  the  Alexander 
Archipelago  lies  north  of  Dixon  Entrance  (lat.  54"  40'  N.),  which 
separates  the  British  and  American  islands.  But  a  few  of  the 
eleven  hundred  islands  will  .^e  mentioned  here.  Among  those 
distinguished  for  their  size  are  those  of  Bardnoff,  Prince  of 
Wales,  Rcxnlla  Gigc'do,  Admiralty,  CJiichagoff,  Kupridnoff,  Koii 
or  Kou-i-u,  Etolin,  and  Zan'mba. 

The  principal  channels  by  which  they  are  divided  are  Cliatluwu 
Peril,  Icy,  and  Clarence  straits  ;  Cross,  Christian,  and  Frederick 
sounds  ;  Lynn  Channel,  and  Stephen's  Pass.  The  smaller  arms 
which  diverge  in  every  direction  from  these  are  innumerable,  and 
afford  access  to  every  portion  of  the  archipelago  without  setting 


GEOGRAPHY  OF   ALASKA. 


25' 


foot  on  land.  These  are  far  from  being  explored  as  yet,  and  Mr. 
Davidson  says,  "  There  is  not  even  a  small  map  of  any  part  of  the 
coast,  or  of  any  harbor,  which  can  be  counted  as  worth  more  than 
a  reconnoissance  or  preliminary  survey." 

The  first  anchorage  in  the  southeast  part  of  Alaska  is  Tay- 
akhoiisiti  Harbor.  This  is  situated  in  lat.  54°  46'  N.  and  Ion. 
130°  35'  W.,  and  contains  a  village  of  the  Tongas  Indians.  Here, 
in  1867,  the  United  States  military  post  of  Fort  Tongas  was 
established.  It  is  about  ten  miles  northwest  of  Fort  Simpson. 
In  clearing  the  timber  for  this  post,  it  is  reported  that  yellow 
cedar  trees  eight  feet  in  diameter  were  cut  down.  The  flanks  of 
all  the  islands  of  this  archipelago  bear  a  magnificent  growth  of 
the  finest  timber,  from  the  water's  edge  to  fifteen  hundred  feet 
above  the  sea.  The  two  most  prominent  capes  which  put  out 
into  Dixon  Entrance  from  the  American  islands  are  Cape  Muzon, 
or  more  properly  Kygdni,  and  Cape  Chacon. 

The  first  anchorage  in  Clarence  Sound  is  Port  Gardner,  in  lat. 
54'  49'  N.  and  Ion.  131°  45'  VV.  An  anchorage  near  the  entrance 
of  Kazdrn  Bay  (lat.  55°  27'  and  Ion.  132°  01')  is  reported  good  and 
easy  of  access.  A  Russian  established  a  salmon  fishery  here  in 
1868.  The  timber  is  said  to  be  very  abundant  and  of  good 
quality. 

On  the  northwest  part  of  Wrangell  Island  in  lat.  56°  31'  30" 
and  Ion.  132°  23'  30"  is  situated  Etolin  Harbor.  Here  the  Rus- 
sians formerly  had  a  stockaded  trading-post,  called  St.  Dionysiiis. 
Here  the  United  States  poet  Fort  Wrangell  is  situated.  The 
harbor  is  good  ;  coal  and  abundance  of  timber  is  reported.  To 
the  east  of  Dixon  Entrance,  with  a  general  northerly  direction, 
lies  the  Portland  Canal,  chiefly  interesting  as  being  throughout  its 
extent  the  dividing  line  between  British  and  American  territory. 
Near  its  southern  termination  is  the  mouth  of  Obscjvatory  Canal. 
Here,  on  a  point  of  land  west  of  the  mouth  of  the  Nasse  River, 
the  Hudson  Bay  Company  established  a  factory  in  1835.  This 
vicinity  is  renowned  for  the  incredible  amount  of  fish  which  visit 
it  at  certain  seasons.  By  striking  a  lath,  armed  with  three  pointed 
nails,  upon  the  surface  of  the  water  as  if  raking,  an  Indian  will 
fill  his  canoe  with  herring  in  twenty  minutes,  during  their  season. 
At  ihc  junction  of  the  eastern  part  of  Dixon  Sound  with  the 
northern  part  of  Chatham  Sound  lies  Port  Simpson.     Here,  on 


GEOGRAPHY   OF   ALASKA. 


i|fii 

iii 


,  'II'  II  ■ 


I      :     Plll"^ 


i,l 


ii 


"i  ^':'i!i 


Chim-shydn  Island,  is  a  large  village  of  Indians  of  the  same  name, 
and  the  stockaded  Hudson  Bay  post  of  Fort  Simpson.  This,  ac- 
cording to  Mr.  Davidson,  is  the  most  important  British  post  in 
this  section  of  the  English  possessions.  It  consists  of  a  stockade 
two  hundred  by  one  hundred  and  sixty  feet,  with  bastions  at  two 
of  the  angles.  Inside  are  dwellings  for  the  traders  and  their 
families,  storehouses,  a  kitchen,  and  a  magazine  for  the  furs. 
The  housp'?  3I1OW  many  marks  of  rifle-balls  directed  by  hostile 
Indians  at  the  fort,  and  at  each  other. 

The  country  around  the  fort  is  not  high.  It  has  been  cleared 
of  timber  for  half  a  mile  around,  and  there  are  vegetable  gardens 
in  the  rear  of  the  stockade,  where  root  crops  mature  well.  The 
latitude  is  estimated  at  54°  33'  35"  N.  and  the  longitude  at  130' 
22'  4c,."  W. 

The  southern  mouth  of  the  Stikfne  River  opens  into  Stikine 
Strait  about  lat.  56°  41'  N.  and  Ion.  132^  22'  W.  A  smaller 
mouth  enters  Frederick  Strait  or  Sound  about  lat.  56'  48'  N. 
This  river  closes  in  December,  and  opens  early  in  May.  In  lat. 
56°  46'  N.  and  Ion.  132"  45'  30"  W.  is  situated  Kygdni  Harbor, 
opening  upon  Cordova  Bay. 

In  lat.  57°  06'  N.,  Ion.  132°  54'  W.,  is  situated  the  first  large  gla- 
cier seen  in  the  Alexander  Archipelago  as  we  approach  from  the 
south.  In  the  winter  of  1853  -  54  one  of  the  California  ice-ships 
loaded  with  ice  from  this  glacier. 

The  extreme  southwest  point  of  Alaska  Territory  is  Cape 
Kygdni,  situated  about  lat.  54^42'  N.  and  Ion.  132°  43'  48"  W. 
The  northwest  point  of  Queen  Charlotte's  Island  bears  south 
39°  W.  about  twenty-eight  miles. 

On  the  western  shore  of  Chatham  Strait,  in  lat.  57°  51',  Ion. 
134°  57'  W.,  lies  Pdvloff  Harbor.  The  shores  are  reported  to  be 
covered  with  a  very  dense  growth  of  timber. 

Icy  Strait  connects  Chatham  Strait  with  the  ocean,  and  was  .so 
named  by  Vancouver  on  account  of  the  masses  of  floating  ice 
from  the  glaciers  which  are  encountered  there.  Vxo\\\  abreast 
of  a  point  known  as  Seduction  Tongue,  a  magnificent  glacier, 
which  has  been  named  the  Davidson  C lacier,  enters  Chatliam 
Strait  in  lat.  59°  07'  N. 

The  mouth  of  the  Chilkaht  River  enters  Lynn  Channel  in  lat. 
59°  13'.    In  Frederick  Strait,  lat.  56°  55'  30",  is,  Saginaw  Bay,  ^o 


GEOGRAPHY  OF  ALASKA. 


253 


named  from  the  United  States  vessel  which  entered  it  in  186S. 
The  longitude  of  the  Indian  village  here  is  about  134°  W.  I'ish 
are  said  to  abound  here.  Northeast  of  Point  Coniwallis  is  Kakc 
Strait,  so  named  from  the  Indians  which  inhal  it  it.  Its  north- 
cast  entrance  is  in  lat.  57°  N.,  Ion.  133°  56'  VV.  In  Hamilton  Har- 
bor on  ihe  east  shore  (lat.  56°  52'  N.,  Ion.  133°  34'  W.),  Vancouver 
found  the  remains  of  eight  Indian  villages.  Coal  has  been  re- 
ported here. 

Vancouver  says  the  land  between  Kake  Strait  and  the  main 
"produces  a  noble  forest  of  large  and  stately  pine-trees,"  and  the 
shores  are  in  general  low  and  apparently  fit  for  cultivation  if 
cleared  of  wood. 

Ci lacier  Ann  opens  from  Stephens  Strait  about  lat.  58"  12' 
and  Ion.  134°  13'  W.  It  is  really  the  outlet  of  a  small  river 
called  the  Taku,  which  has  been  confounded  with  the  Tahco 
River  of  the  interior.  The  shores  are  high,  and  the  ravines  full 
of  glaciers.  In  1840  the  Hudson  liay  Company  established  a 
stockaded  post  at  the  mouth  of  the  river,  with  bastions,  and  gar- 
risoned with  twenty-two  men.  Deer  are  very  abundant  here  ;  in 
1842  twelve  hundred  skins  were  obtained.  The  mountain  sheep 
and  goat  also  abound.  The  trading-post  is  situated  in  a  snug, 
well-protected  harbor,  opening  by  a  narrow  entrance  into  Ste- 
phen's Passage. 

Iktween  Point  Woodhonsc  and  Cape  Edgccuvibe  lies  the  en- 
trance to  Sitka  Sonnd. 

Sitka  Harbor  is  very  contracted,  and  contains  two  anchorages, 
the  eastern  and  western.  Numerous  buoys  have  been  laid  down 
by  the  Russian  American  Company,  to  which  vessels  usually 
moor.  The  eastern  is  recommended  as  the  best  by  the  officers  of 
the  Coast  Survey. 

The  geographical  position  of  the  Coast  Survey  Station  between 
the  United  States  barracks  and  i  e  church  is  in  lat.  57"^  02'  52" 
N.  and  Ion.  135°  17'  45"  VV.  The  variation  of  the  compass  was 
28"  49'  E.  in  August,  iZG"].  The  mean  rise  and  fall  of  the  tide  is 
stated  to  be  7.8  feet,  and  spring  tides  11.9.  The  highest  range 
was  13  and  the  least  2.1  feet. 

About  nine  miles  south  of  Sitka  are  the  Rapids,  which  connect 
the  waters  of  Deep  {Glubokoi)  Lake  with  Lake  {Oserski)  Bay.  At 
these  rapids,  according  to  Galovi'n,  are  the  salmon  fisheries  of  the 


f 

'in 

h.:l 


254 


GEOGRAPHY  OF  ALASKA. 


Russian  American  Company.  There  is  a  fall  of  nine  feet,  where 
weirs  are  constructed,  and  great  quantities  are  caught.  These 
fish  were  given  away  to  all  '  ho  needed  food,  and  the  surplus  over 
this  consumption  amounted  to  five  or  six  hundred  barrels. 

In  January,  1867,  the  town  and  post  of  New  Archangel  (now 
usually  called  Sitka,  from  the  Indian  name  of  the  bay  on  which  it 
is  situated)  contained  nine  hundred  and  sixty-eight  inhabitants, 
of  whom  three  hundred  and  forty-nine  were  Russians,  and  the 
remainder  Aleuts  or  Creoles.  Few  of  the  Russians  now  remain  ; 
the  closing  up  of  the  affairs  of  the  Russian  American  Company 
having  deprived  them  of  the  means  of  obtaining  a  livelihood, 
nearly  all  have  returned  to  Siberia  or  Russia. 

Cape  Edgecumbe,  at  the  entrance  of  the  Sound,  is  well  marked 
by  the  extinct  volcano  of  Mount  Edgecumbe.  This  was  discovered 
and  named  Mount  San  Jacinto  by  Bodega  in  1775.  The  top, 
which  is  the  rim  of  a  great  crater,  is  nearly  level,  and,  according 
to  Coast  Survey  measurements,  attains  a  hei"^t  of  2,855  feet 
above  the  sea.  It  has  a  most  remarkable  appearance  from  the 
Sound.  The  lower  flanks  are  covered  with  a  dense  forest,  but  the 
upper  portion  is  quite  bare,  and  in  winter  snow-covered  and  dis- 
tinguished by  deep  ravines,  which  radiate  regularly  from  the  sum- 
mit. No  other  mountain  on  the  coast  has  such  an  appearance. 
It  is  situated  upon  Knhoff  Island. 

Back  of  the  town  of  Sitka,  which  is  on  ^aranoff  Island,  are  two 
mountains.  The  nearer  one  is  rounded  and  covered  with  trees, 
and  the  sharp  snowy  peak  of  Vostovia  immediately  behind  it  gives 
the  appearance  of  a  single  mountain.  Vostovia  was  ascended  by 
a  party  of  the  Western  Union  Telegraph  Expedition,  in  August, 
1865,  and  found  to  be  3,216  feet  high  by  mercurial  barometer. 
The  rocks  of  the  summit  were  syenitic.  Its  latitude  is  57^03'  23'', 
and  longitude  135°  12'  57".  The  old  Russian  observatory  was 
situated  opposite  the  town,  on  Japan  {Japonski)  Island. 

Sitka  was  the  capital  of  the  Russian  Colonies  in  America. 
The  Governor  or  chief  Director  of  the  Company  had  his  resi- 
dence here.  The  Governor's  house  is  situated  on  the  upper  por- 
tion of  the  rocky  peninsula  on  which  the  town  was  first  built.  A 
cupola  is  placed  on  top  of  it,  one  hundred  and  ten  feet  above  the 
sea.  From  this  cupola  a  light  was  shown  when  two  guns  were 
fired  in  the  harbor  below. 


d 


GEOGRAPHY   OF   ALASKA. 


!55 


c  feet,  where 
ught.  These 
;  surpUis  over 
irrcls. 

changel  (now 
ly  on  which  it 
t  inhabitants, 
;ians,  and  the 

now  remain  ; 
can  Company 

a  livelihood, 

s  well  marked 
vas  discovered 
75.  The  top, 
md,  according 
of  2,855  feet 
ance  from  the 
forest,  but  the 
/ered  and  dis- 
from  the  sum- 
in  appearance. 

sland,  are  two 
red  with  trees, 
iehind  it  gives 

ascended  by 
Dii,  in  August, 

al  barometer. 

is  57° 03' 23". 
)scrvatory  was 
and. 
in  America. 

had  his  resi- 
:he  upper  por- 
first  built.     A 

feet  above  the 
wo  guns  were 


According  to  Mr.  Davidson  the  shortest  distance  from  San 
I'rancisco  Harbor  to  Sitka  is  twelve  hundred  and  ninety-si.\  miles. 
l'"rom  a  point  ten  miles  west  of  the  south  Farralon,  olf  the  Gold- 
en Gate,  a  direct  course  for  the  entrance  to  Sitka  Bay  can  be 
laid.  It  is  north,  23°  VV.,  twelve  hundred  and  fifty-five  miles. 
]\y  the  inner  passage  between  the  archipelago  and  the  coast 
of  British  Columbia  and  Alaska,  the  distance  is  si.xteen  hun- 
dred and  forty-seven  miles.  Large  sailing  vessels  must  go  out- 
side. 

The  town  of  Sitka,  at  the  time  of  our  visit  in  1865,  contained 
about  one  hundred  and  twenty  buildings.  As  we  saw  the  town 
from  our  moorings  in  the  western  h;"-bor,  the  Governor's  hou.se 
and  flagstaff,  standing  high  above  all  the  rest,  were  the  most 
prominent  objects.  Beyond  were  the  steeple  and  dome  of  the 
Greek  church,  and  nearer  the  water  the  large  storehouses,  the 
counting-house,  and  various  hulks,  drawn  up  and  used  as  store- 
ships.  The  houses  were  all  of  logs,  but  painted  a  dull  yellow  ; 
the  metal  roofs  were  red,  and  with  the  emerald  green  spire  of  the 
church,  projected  against  the  dark  evergreens  of  the  adjacent 
hills,  presented  an  extremely  pictures([ue  appearance.  It  was 
quite  unlike  anything  else  in  America,  and  seemed  to  belong  to  a 
world  of  its  own.  Much  of  it  was  more  primitive  than  many 
western  towns  where  the  shingles  are  yet  bright  from  the  saw- 
mill; yet  the  place  was  eighty  years  old. 

Our  reception  from  the  officers  of  the  Russian  American  Com- 
pany was  most  cordial.  All,  including  the  ladies,  vied  with  each 
other  in  trying  to  render  our  stay  in  Sitka  agreeable.  I  need 
hardly  add  that  they  were  quite  successful. 

The  moisture  of  the  climate  renders  Sitka  disagreeable,  and 
the  continued  cloudy  weather  makes  it  gloomy;  but  the  one  or 
two  days  during  our  stay,  when  the  sun  came  out  and  the  sky 
was  clear,  were  exceedingly  pleasant.  The  islets,  with  which 
the  bay  is  crowded,  are  covered  with  wood  to  the  water's  edge, 
and  many  of  the  views  in  the  harbor  are  exceedingly  attractive. 
The  principal  buildings  are  the  Governor's  house,  the  counting- 
lioiise,  the  barracks,  church,  and  hospitals.  The  lions  of  the  town 
consisted  of  the  Governor's  garden  and  a  steam  sawmill,  to  both 
<'t  which  we  were  introduced.  The  Indian  village  outside  the 
stockade  consisted  of  large  log-houses,  with  a  round  hole  in  front 


256 


GEOGRAPHY  OF  ALASKA. 


i  1  ,j  li 

I 


i  ill!: 

'        iji 

ili 


which  served  as  a  door.  There  were  many  curiously  carved  and 
painted  sarcophagi  of  wood,  in  which  the  ashes  of  dead  Indians 
were  preserved, 

liaranoff  Island,  on  which  Sitka  is  situated,  is  unexplored. 
The  dense  forest  and  moist  soil,  as  well  as  the  mountainous 
character  of  the  island,  renders  exploration  difficult  and  often 
dangerous.  Manufactures  of  various  articles  used  in  their  trade 
were  established  by  the  Russian  American  Company  at  Sitka. 
The  population  in  1867  was  about  one  thousand,  of  which  one 
third  were  Russians. 

The  archipelago  ends  at  C(7j>c  Sjkitccr.  The  occcui  coast 
north  of  Cross  Sound,  according  to  Vancouver,  is  steep,  woody, 
and  much  indented  with  coves  and  small  rocky  bays.  Cape 
Spencer  is  the  northwest  point  of  Cross  Sound.  Fifteen  miles 
northwest  is  Icy  Cape  of  the  Russians,  on  the  mainland.  Thirty- 
two  miles  northwest  is  the  remarkable  bay  described  by  La 
Perouse,  and  called  by  the  natives  Lituya  Bay.  It  is  sometimes 
known  as  Port  Fmn^ais.  It  presents  the  appearance  of  a  great 
fissure  or  rent  in  the  high  plateau  which  forms  this  part  of  the 
coast.  It  divides  in  the  interior  into  two  arms.  It  is  said  by 
La  Perouse  to  be  destitute  of  fish,  except  halibut,  which  were 
caught  weighing  over  one  hundred  pounds.  Salmon  and  trout 
abounded  in  the  streams  which  fell  into  it.  The  mountains  are 
precipitou.s,  rising  to  the  height  of  five  or  six  thousand  feet,  and 
densely  clothed  with  forests.  The  woods  were  full  of  berries ; 
bears,  martens,  and  squirrels  were  plenty.  Four  great  glaciers 
enter  the  bay,  and  the  magnificent  scenery  was  declared  by  that 
navigator  to  surpass  in  grandeur  the  profound  valleys  of  the 
Alps  and  Pyrenees. 

The  Russians  had  entered  this  bay  long  before  La  Perouse, 
and  at  one  time  contemplated  establishing  a  post  here.  There 
are  several  Indian  villages  of  the  Thlinket  family,  in  or  near  the 
bay,  and  a  large  fishery  at  the  mouth  of  a  stream  on  the  coast  a 
few  miles  north  of  the  entrance.  The  next  most  important  prom- 
ontoiy,  northwest  (twenty-two  miles)  from  Lituya  Bay  is  Cope 
Fau\ucathcr.  It  is  said  to  be  in  lat.  58°  50'  12"  N.  and  Ion.  137° 
48'  W.  The  coast  northwest  of  this  point  to  Bering  or  Ydkntai 
Bay  is  narrow,  low,  covered  with  wood  and  backed  by  high  moun- 
tains.     Between  Cape  Phipps,  or  Ocean  Cape  of  the  Russians,  and 


GEOGRAPHY  OP^   ALASKA. 


257 


Cape  Manby,  is  the  entrance  to  Ikring  Bay.  It  was  so  called  by 
Cook  and  Vancouver,  as  being  the  bay  in  which  liering  probably 
ancliorcd  in  1/41.  It  was  called  xldmimlty  Bay  by  Dixon, 
rniic  dc  Monti'  by  La  I'erouse,  and  Yakutat  by  the  natives.  Here 
a  Russian  post  was  established.  The  coast  from  Cape  Manby  to 
Cape  Suckling  is  forbidding  in  the  extreme.  La  Perouse  said 
that  masses  of  snow  covered  a  barren  soil  without  trees.  The 
mountains  appeared  to  be  a  very  little  distance  from  the  sea.  A 
low  table-land  at  their  bases  was  covered  with  trees.  This  part 
of  the  coast  is  indented  by  a  small  bay,  called  ley  Bay  on  account 
of  the  glaciers  which  surround  it.  Olf  this  stretch  of  coast  for 
about  one  hundred  miles  are  moderate  soundings,  known  to 
the  whalers  as  the  Fainveatlier  Ground. 

Between  Kayc  or  Kayak  Island,  in  Ion.  144°  53'  W.,  and  the 
main  is  a  shallow  bay  known  as  Comptroller s  Bay.  Between  the 
145th  and  146th  meridians,  along  the  coast,  lie  the  shoals  and 
flats  off  the  mouths  of  the  Copper  or  Atna  River. 

West  of  Ion.  146^,  extending  to  149°,  lies  the  great  Chugdch 
6"//^  sometimes  called  Prinec  William  Sound.  It  is  crowded  with 
islands,  and  extends  its  arms  like  tentaculx  in  every  direction, 
covering  an  extent  of  over  twenty-five  hundred  square  miles. 
The  entrance  is  about  fifty-five  miles  wide,  and  blocked  with 
iskuuls.  The  most  important  of  these  are  Montagu,  Ilinchiubrook, 
Knight,  and  Hawkin  islands. 

Port  Etehcs  is  on  the  southwest  part  of  Hinchinbrook  Isl- 
and, in  lat.  60°  16'  and  Ion.  146'  56'.  Constantine  Harbor  opens 
into  it.  On  this  lagoon  was  situated  the  Redoubt  Constantino 
and  Elena,  a  post  of  the  Russian  American  Company.  It  is 
described  as  being  a  well-built,  stockaded  fort,  with  two  bas- 
tions. 

Chugdch  Gulf,  and  the  various  islands  in  it,  contain  many  ex- 
cellent harbors.  The  Russians  in  old  times  built  many  vessels 
here.  In  Chalmers  Bay  a  remarkable  point  was  noticed  by  Van- 
couver, which  bore  stumps  of  trees  cut  with  the  axe,  but  far  below 
IiHv-water  mark  at  the  time  of  his  visit.  It  has  been  appropriately 
nametl  Sinking  Point. 

The  climate  of  the  Gulf  is  more  severe  than  that  of  the  coast 
to  the  southward,  but  in  June,  according  to  Portlock,  most  of  the 
snow  was  melted.  Fish,  excellent  timber,  and  berries,  beside  in- 
17 


25S 


GEOGRAPHY   OF  ALASKA. 


m 


H') 


I' 


ll 


(ligenous  grain  {FJyinns)  and  wild  peas,  are  reported  to  abound 
exceedingly.  From  the  head  of  the  Gulf  a  portage  can  be  made 
to  the  head  of  Cook's  Inlet.  The  natives  are  of  the  Innuit 
family,  and  are  called  Clingdchcs  or  Chiigdchigmut. 

Between  the  Gulf  and  Cook's  Inlet  is  the  great  peninsula  of 
Kcndi.  The  ocean  coast  of  this  peninsula  extends  from  Cape 
Piigct,  in  lat.  5(/  55' and  Ion.  148''  33'  W.,  to  Cape  Elhabctli^  in 
lat.  59°  09'  and  Ion.  151'^  51'  \V.  This  coast  is  indented  by  many 
inlets  and  bays,  of  which  Days  Harbor  and  Rcsitrrcction  J>ny 
afibrd  good  anchorages.  The  latter  was  long  the  shipyard  of 
the  Russian  American  Company,  and  a  post  was  situated  there. 
The  whole  coast  is  abundantly  supplied  with  wood,  and  glaciers 
occupy  many  of  the  gorges.  Several  groups  of  islets,  called  the 
CJiisivcUs  and  Pyc  Islands,  lie  off  the  iJiores. 

Near  Cape  Elizabeth  are  situated  the  Chugatz  Islands  (not  to 
be  confounded  with  the  islands  in  the  Gulf  of  Chugach),  and  a 
cluster  called  the  Barren  Islands.  These  are  one  thousand  six 
hundred  and  seventy  miles  north,  42°  VV.,  from  the  Farralones 
off  San  Francisco  Harbor. 

The  entrance  to  Cook's  Inlet  is  between  Capes  Douglas  and 
Elizabeth,  with  a  passage  on  either  side  of  the  Barren  Islands. 
Within  the  capes  the  inlet  is  sixty-five  miles  wide  ;  fifty  miles 
farther  up  it  contracts  to  twenty-five  miles,  whence  it  gradually 
diminishes  to  twelve  or  fifteen.  At  its  most  northern  latitude  the 
river  Suchi'tna  enters  the  inlet  in  61°  16'.  Here  the  inlet  turns 
to  the  eastward  and  southward,  and  is  known  as  the  Titrnagain 
Arm.  It  is  shallow,  with  a  narrow  channel,  and  receives  the  Fire 
{Kncck)  River  about  Ion.  150"  VV. 

On  the  eastern  shores  of  the  inlet  are  Port  C/iat/iam,  where 
the  settlement  of  Alcxdndrovsk  is  situated,  English  Harbor,  Chu- 
gdchik  Bay,  and  St.  Chrysostom  Harbor.  The  small  river  Kakiui 
also  enters  from  the  east.  The  eastern  .shores  are  low  and  cov- 
ered with  herbage  and  clumps  of  timber.  Farther  back  the 
mountains  rise  to  a  considerable  height,  and  contain  large  gla- 
ciers. The  tides  in  the  eastern  portion  are  said  to  rise  and  fall 
thirty  feet,  so  that  the  arm  must  be  nearly  dry  at  low  tide.  There 
are  two  islands,  Angiisiin  and  Kalgin,  in  the  inlet,  and  the  water 
between  Cape  Douglas  and  the  coast  north  of  Augustin  Island  is 
known  as  Kdmchak  or  Kdmishak  bay.     On  the   cast  coast  ot 


GEOGRAPHY   OF   ALASKA. 


259 


ed  to  abound 
;  can  be  made 
of  the   Innuit 

t  peninsula  of 
ids  from  Cape 
'  Elizabeth,  in 
;nted  by  many 
surrcctiou  J'oy 
le  shipyard  of 
situated  there. 
1,  and  glaciers 
ilcts,  called  the 

Islands  (not  to 
hugach),  and  a 
e  thousand  six 
the  Farraloncs 

IS  Douglas  and 

Barren  Islands. 

ide  ;  fifty  miles 

,ce  it  gradually 

|ern  latitude  the 

the  inlet  turns 

the  Tiiniagain 

iceives  the  Fiic 

"Jtatham,  where 
\lt  Harbor,  Clin- 
\\\  river  Kakiui 
re  low  and  cov- 
Irther   back   the 
jitain  large  gla- 
to  rise  and  tall 
)W  tide.     There 
[,  and  the  water 
Igustin  Island  is 
cast  coast  ot 


Cook's  Inlet,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Kaknu  River,  is  situated  Redoubt 
St.  Xie/tolas.  Some  miles  farther  south  is  the  settlement  of  .S7. 
George.  These  were  both  posts  of  the  Russian  American  Com- 
pany. 

Leaving  the  Inlet,  the  southeast  coast  of  the  peninsula  of  Ali- 
aska  is  abrupt,  rugged,  destitute  of  trees  for  the  must  part,  in- 
dented with  countless  bays  and  coves  of  small  size,  and  full  of 
rocks.  The  first  inlet  of  importance  is  the  bay  of  Katmdi  in  lat. 
58°.  Mere  Jurassic  fossils  were  found  by  Wosnesscnsky.  On  a 
lake  in  the  vicinity  petroleum  is  found  floating.  This  part  of  the 
peninsula  is  separated  from  the  Kadiak  /Xrchipelago  by  Shelikojf 
Strait,  so  named  in  honor  of  one  of  the  most  energetic  pioneers 
who  explored  and  developed  this  territory. 

Kadid/c  and  the  adjoining  islands,  though  separated  by  a  broad 
expanse  of  water,  appear  to  be  a  prolongation  of  the  range  which 
forms  the  peninsula  of  Kenai.  The  rocks  are  similar  and  the 
general  trend  is  the  same.  The  more  protected  portions  of  these 
islands  are  well  wooded  with  fine  timber,  and  they  also  contain, 
with  the  shores  of  Cook's  Inlet,  much  of  the  best  farming  and 
grazing  land.  They  are  well  populated  and  are  really  the  centre 
of  trade  of  the  territory.  St.  Paul,  the  principal  settlement,  by  its 
position  and  importance,  deserves,  fixr  more  than  Sitka,  the  honor 
of  being  the  capital  of  the  territory  of  Alaska.  It  has  been 
several  times  the  principal  depot  of  the  Company,  but  political 
reasons  determined  them  to  keep  the  capital  as  far  south  as  pos- 
sible. Beside  the  settlement  at  St.  Paul,  there  arc  three  villages 
on  T/irec  Saiuts  Bay,  Afogndk,  Spruce,  and  Woody  islands,  and 
a  number  of  native  settlements.  The  depot  of  the  Ice  Company 
is  on  Woody  Island.  A  frequent  and  noticeable  feature  of  tliis 
part  of  the  coast  is  the  pinnacles,  or  needle  rocks,  which  may 
lie  found  off  almost  every  bluff  or  point. 

Westward  from  Kadiak  we  pass  the  Scmidi  Islands  and  Chir- 
d^ off  [ox  Ukamok)  Island,  on  which  the  Company  had  a  factory, 
llie  marmot  {^Sp.  Parryi)  was  introduced  here  and  multiplied  to 
such  an  extent  as  to  give  employment  to  a  number  of  persons 
who  were  sent  here  from  Sitka  (as  a  punishment  for  .slight  of- 
ences)  to  prepare  the  skins.  On  Popoffznd  Unga,  islands  of  the 
Shumagin  group,  are  settlements.  Unga  contains  two  excellent 
harbors.     Coal  Harbor  on  the  north  abounds  with  cod,  and  is  a 


26o 


Gi:o(;RArnY  of  Alaska. 


.li' 


ilil:lh 


I.I 


frequent  rendezvous  for  llic  fishermen.  Dilaroff  Pay,  at  the 
southeast  end  of  the  island,  has  a  settlement  upon  it.  Nearly  due 
west  from  L^nj^a,  on  the  peninsula  of  Aliaska,  is  the  Bclkojfski  or 
Squirrel  settlement.  It  would  he  out  of  plaee  to  describe  here  the 
myriads  of  rocks,  shoals,  and  islets  which  cluster  about  the  .shores 
of  the  i)eninsula.  It  terminates  at  /'rt/jf /Vwj,  otherwise  known 
as  Isanotski  Strait ;  long  marked  as  navigable  from  French  sur- 
veys in  the  last  century,  but  really  an  impassable  lagoon.  Upon 
it  is  situated  the  Morse  settlement  of  Aleutians.  West  of  it  ex- 
tends the  island  of  L'nimak,  separated  from  Akhiin  and  Tigalda 
by  the  l'nimak  Pass. 

In  the  Aleutian  chain,  which  has  already  been  described,  the 
principal  settlements  are  upon  the  islands  of  Unahishka,  Akhun, 
Tigalda,  I'mnak,  Amlia,  Atka,  Adakh,  and  Attu.  The  principal 
harbors  or  anchorages  are,  in  Unahishka,  Ilii'iliuk  or  Captaiiis  Har- 
bor, Jnavcr,  and  Mdkiisliin  bays  ;  in  y^mlia,  Svi'c/mikoff  Bay  and 
Korovinski  Bay ;  in  'Yiwwx^^'a.,  Slavardssi  Bay ;  in  Amchi'tka,  A7/- 
lojf  Bay ;  finally,  in  Attn,  Cliichagojf  Harbor. 

Captain's  Harbor,  Unalashka,  next  to  Kadiak  and  Sitka,  is  the 
most  important  place  in  the  territory.  A  considerable  trade  has 
sprung  up  here  since  the  purchase  of  the  territory,  and  it  is  a 
favorite  point  for  vessels  to  touch  and  obtain  water,  wood,  or 
fresh  vegetables. 

Chi'chagoff  Harbor  in  Attu,  if  we  may  beli'jve  report.-,.  Is  al- 
ready the  seat  Oi  -^"frgling  operations  more  or  less  extensive,  by 
which  Siberian  sablco  u....  ''-="esc  opium  are  made  to  do  duty  as 
the  productions  of  Alaska. 

Returning  to  Aliaska,  and  going  eastward  after  leaving  False 
Pass,  the  first  point  is  Granite  Cape*  in  Ion.  163'  15'  W.  and 
lat.  55°  12'  N.  (approximate).  East  of  this  cape  the  coast  is  deep- 
ly indented  with  bays  and  coi i;s,  all  very  shallow;  the  shoals 
extend  off  the  coast  for  se\ cr-.i  miles.  The  general  trend  is  to 
the  northeast.  Amak  hiaaa,  a  sharp  volcanic  peak  about  two 
thousand  feet  high,  lies  in  Ion.  163°  VV.,  and  lat.  56°  32'  30"  N., 
with  unexplored  shoals  W.N.W.  and  S.S.E.  of  it.  Passing  Cape 
Lconovich  in  Ion.  162°  15'  W.,  we  arrive  at  Cape  Rodgnoff  in  161° 
08'  15".  East  of  Cape  Rodgnofif  is  a  shallow  bay,  and  a  long  island 
known  as  Walrus  Island.    The  eastern  end  of  the  lagoon  is  called 

*  These  positions  arc  from  the  sketch  charts  of  the  Russian  American  Conip.iny. 


GEOGRAPHY  OF   ALASKA. 


261 


1. 


can  Company. 


J'ort  Molhr,  and  it  is  said  to  carry  six  fathoms  well  in.  The 
coast  hi-'yond  trends  N.IC.  by  I'".,  and  is  strai,L;ht  and  even,  with 
shallow  water  off  of  it.  About  Ion.  159"  20',  stretchin;^'  north- 
eastward to  Caf'c  Slivi^oitoff  is  a  shoal  with  sonic  small  islands 
called  the  .W'rpic/ioi  or  Scai  Islatn/s.  The  coast  trends  in  a 
more  and  more  nurtherly  tlirection,  with  fron)  five  to  ten  fathoms 
ten  miles  off  shore.  Passing  the  shallow  mouths  of  the  Sulima, 
rga;;uk,  and  Naknek  Rivers,  the  long  and  shallow  northeastern 
end  of  Bristol  Hay  makes  up  to  the  mouth  of  the  Kwi'ehak  River, 
in  hit.  59°  \.,  Ion.  156'  57'  W.  To  the  west,  broad  shoals  extend 
far  off  shore  to  the  mouth  of  Nits/ur^tik  Jniy.  This  ba)'  is  about 
fifteen  miles  long  and  ten  wiile,  very  shallow,  and  obstructed 
by  sand-bars  and  shoals.  Upon  its  northeast  extremity,  at  the 
mouth  of  the  Nushergak  River,  is  situated  the  Redoubt  Alcxaudni 
in  lat.  58°  57'  06",  Ion.  158'  18'  24"  (Wrangell).  The  west  shore 
of  the  bay  is  formed  by  a  broad,  low  point,  rising  to  the  northward 
into  hills,  and  said  to 'y.  separated  from  the  mainland  by  a  slough, 
which  passes  from  Nushergak  Bay  to  the  shallow  lagoon  of  Ki'ili- 
kak,  opening  on  Kulnkak  Bay.  The  southernmost  extremity  of 
this  point  is  called  Cape  Coiistaiitiiic,  (lat.  58^  25'  05"  and  Ion. 
158°  51'  30")  and  is  said  to  have  a  long,  narrow  shoal  extending 
S.  E.  by  S.  ten  miles  from  shore.  West  of  Cape  Constantine  the 
shore  trends  northwesterly  upon  Kulnkak  Bay,  which  contains 
several  islands.  The  most  western  and  largest  is  I [di^cinncistcr 
Island,  named  after  c  of  the  governors  of  the  territory.  It  is 
sei)arated  by  a  narrow  and  shallow  pasagc  from  the  mainland  ; 
the  waters  northeast  of  it  are  called  (ii'igiak  Bay,  from  a  river  of 
the  same  name  which  empties  there,  in  lat.  59^  N.,  Ion.  160'^  23'  \V. 
Westward  of  the  island  the  shore  is  high,  rapidly  rising  inland 
into  mountains.  The  southern  point  of  this  promontory,  in  Ion. 
161°  48'  30",  is  nearly  due  west  from  the  southern  point  of  Ha- 
gcnmcister  Island,  distance  about  twenty-four  miles,  and  is  situ- 
ated in  lat.  sS''  35'  (approximate).  This  important  promontory 
being  unnamed  in  the  Russian  charts,  I  propose  to  name  it  after 
the  distinguished  head  of  the  Coast  Survey,  Cape  Pciirc.  A 
small  island  is  reported  to  the  east  of  it  at  a  distance  of  less  than 
a  mile.  Just  west  and  north  of  it  is  a  small  protected  cove, 
from  which,  due  west,  extends  the  long,  narrow  promontory  of 
Capf  Nezvcnham.       From   the   north   side   of  the   neck   of  this 


-fn 

•Mi 
m 


262 


GEOGRAPHY  OF   ALASKA. 


Ai  i:n! 


promontory  the  coast  extends  nearly  due  northward,  intersected 
by  C/itik-i<.'ivi  and  (/oot/z/ru's  bays.  I'"rom  the  north  point  of  the 
latter  well  into  the  mouth  of  the  Kuskoquim  extend  wide  shoals 
along  shore.  The  same  is  true  in  a  still  greater  degree  of  the 
opposite  shore.  This  bay  is  called  Ktiskoqiihn  Bay  from  the  great 
river  which  empties  into  it.  Under  a  lii\e  drawn  from  the  north 
point  of  Cjoodii'jws  \?ay  to  Cape  Avlnoff,  the  greatest  depth 
between  the  shoals  is  eight  fathoms.  In  kit.  59'  48'  is  the  bar 
with  only  two  fathoms,  and  a  little  lower  down  the  channel  is 
divided  by  a  sand-bar  which  has  six  fathoms  in  the  narrow 
channel  to  the  east,  and  only  two  in  the  broader  western  one. 

West  of  the  mouth  of  the  Kuskoquim  the  shore  is  moderately 
low,  with  very  broad  shoals  exlentling  from  ten  to  twenty-five 
miles  off  shore.  ICntering  Etoliii  Strait,  sometimes  marked  as 
Cook's  Strait,  we  have  to  the  west  of  us  Ni'mivak  "Island,  and  to 
the  east  the  coast  of  the  continent,  fringed  with  broad  shoals, 
and  indented  with  large,  shallow  bays.  1  he  southeast  point  of 
the  island,  which  has  rocks  off  of  it  for  several  miles,  is  calleil 
Cafe  li toll II,  after  tiie  explorer  of  the  strait.  The  average  depth 
is  five  to  eight  fathoms,  deeper  toward  the  island. 

Nunivak  is  lightly  woodeil  in  sheltered  parts,  anil  contains 
many  high  hill.s.  It  is  inhabited  by  Innuit,  very  degrailed  and 
filthy,  but  noted  for  the  beauty  of  their  ivory  weapons  and  kyaks. 
Tobacco  traiU.'s  well  here.  There  are  no  harbors  in  Nunivak. 
The  island  is  of  a  triangular  shape,  lowest  toward  the  north. 

The  east  head  of  the  northern  entrance  to  the  ^itrait  is  Cafe 
Vaiiroiiiur,  m  hit.  60°  36'  N.,  Ion.  \6$''  15'  W.  The  west  head 
is  Ca/'t-  KInaiiicliciiko  in  lat.  60°  42'  N.  and  Ion.  165°  50'  W. 
The  former  is  elevated  and  hilly. 

North  of  Cape  Vancouver  is  EtoIiii  Ihiv,  a  wide  and  shallow 
indentation  of  the  coast  into  which  the  Kwinchagak  River  falls  a 
mile  or  two  south  of  lat.  61"  N.  The  north  shore  of  the  hay 
trends  nearly  cast  and  west;  about  Ion.  [65"  15' it  bends  more 
toward  the  north,  and  in  Ion.  166°  10'  VV.  and  hit.  Ci°  14'  N. 
is  the  first  of  a  series  of  capes  which  make  out  from  the  coast, 
enclosing  a  series  of  bays  more  or  less  shallow.  The  maiidand  i.'^ 
rolling  with  low  hills.  These  ca]K's,  with  one  exce|)tion,  beini; 
unnamed,  it  has  been  proposed  to  dedicate  them  to  the  later 
explorers  on  the  Yukon.     The  first  has  been  named  Cape   l\'/ty»i- 


GEOGRAl'IIY   OF  ALASKA. 


263 


ard,  intersected 
h  point  of  the 
nd  wide  shoals 
r  degree  of  the 
from  the  great 
from  the  north 
greatest  depth 
'  48'  is  the  bar 
the  channel  is 
in  the  narrow 
r  western  one. 
i  is  moderately 
to  twenty-five 
nes  marked  as 
'Island,  and  to 
I  broad  shoals, 
iheast  i)oint  of 
iiilcs,  is  called 
average  depth 
1. 

,  and  contains 

degraded  and 

;)ns  and  kyaks. 

s  in   Nunivak. 

he  norlli. 

;itrait  is  Cixpc 

['he  west  h<;ad 

1^)5°  50'  W. 

e  and  shallow 
c  River  falls  a 

e  of  the  bay 
t  bentis  more 
t.  61"   14'  N. 

im   the  coast, 

c  mainland  is 

:e[)tion,   being 

to   the  lattT 

Cape   Why  III- 


per.  The  next  to  the  northward  in  lat.  61"  22'  and  Ion.  166" 
24'  has  received  the  name  of  Cape  Dall.  The  next,  a  high  pro- 
nioatory,  from  which  a  long  arm  exteiuls  some  eight  miles  in  a 
norlherly  direction,  is  Cape  Romdiizoff,  named  after  the  Russian 
nobleman  and  statesman  who  fitted  out  Kotzebue's  expedition. 
The  southern  and  boldest  portion  of  the  cape  is  situated  in  Ion. 
166"  \f  and  lat.  01°  29'  ami  the  western  face  trends,  witli  some 
indentations,  in  a  nearly  north  and  south  direction.  On  the  Rus- 
sian charts  shoal  water  is  laid  down  extending  several  miles  out 
from  the  cape,  with  six  fathoms  six  miles  from  shore. 

North  of  Cape  Romanzofr  is  a  shallow  bay  with  three  fathoms 
off  the  entrance.  The  next,  t'<{/'r  Smith  (named  for  Captain  E. 
v..  Smith,  to  whom  we  owe  the  first  chart  of  the  Yukon  delta),  is 
a  long,  low  point  extending  in  a  northeast  direction,  the  extreme 
end  being  in  lat.  61°  47'  and  Ion.  166'  23'  30."  In  the  narrow 
bay  north  of  this  cai)e,  which  has  not  been  sounded,  two  small 
streams  empty.  The  north  shore  of  this  is  formed  by  Cape  Dyer 
(named  for  Lieutenant  J.  T.  Dyer,  who  assisted  in  the  recounois- 
sance  of  the  Yukon- mouth),  a  moderately  high,  rouniled  cape, 
the  extremity  of  which  is  in  Ion.  i''>6'  oS'  and  lat.  61°  49'.*  Its 
trend  is  nearly  parallel  with  Cape  Smith.  North  of  Cape 
Dvor,  the  shore  treiuls  in  a  southerly  and  easterly  direction,  ten 
or  twelve  miles,  to  the  mouth  of  the  Kun  or  Maria  Louisa  River, 
so  named  by  Captain  Smith,  b'rom  tliis  i).;int  the  coast  takes  a 
northerly  direction  to  the  mouth  of  the  Muganolwik  River,  in  lat. 
Gf  N.  Seven  miles  off  the  coast  are  two  long  islands,  t)r  dry 
sand-bars,  known  as  the  Sandy  Islands.  The  southwest  point  of 
the  southern  island  is  .dx  miles  distant  from  the  iH)rth  shore  of 
Cape  Dyer.  I.etween  them  we  have  three  and  a  half,  four,  and 
eight  fathoms  going  from  l'>i'  cape  to  th(;  island.  ICastward  from 
the  same  point  on  tlv;  cape  wo  fiiul  three  and  a  half,  three,  one 
and  a  half,  two,  one  and  a  half,  and  o\w  fathom  to  the  shore,  nine 
inilus  north  of  the  river  mcuth.  North  of  this  point,  between  the 
islaiuls  and  the  coast,  and  beyomi,  to  the  mouth  of  the  Kipniuk 
or  Black  River,  in  lat.  62"  12'  and  Ion.  165,  the  shore  in  strong 
north  winds  is  dry  for  a  tlistauce  of  six  or  seven  miles  iVom  the 
US'  A\     oast  line. 

*    TIr'  l.ttitvule  aiul  longiludc  ot"  those  c.ipcs  is  ai)i)ii)\iin.iic,  tlctcnniiitil  In  hearings 
fioiu  (.'.MH'  IvomanzolT. 


r  • 
.''!8ii 

Ol'l 

i 


)lii.:i 


tl-:: 


!  "i''iihi 


"Mil 


.k^' 


264 


GEOGRAPHY   OF   ALASKA. 


The  bay  north  and  east  of  Cape  Dyer  and  southeast  of  the 
southern  sand  island,  it  is  proposed  to  call  Scammon  Bay,  in 
honor  of  Captain  C.  M.  Scammon,  U.  S.  R.  S.,  Chief  of  Marine 
of  the  Western  Union  Telegraph  Expedition.  It  affords  good 
anchorage  for  small  vessels  except  in  a  northwest  wind.  The 
country  in  from  this  part  of  the  coast  is  low,  marshy,  and  full 
of  small  sloughs,  lakes,  and  rivers. 

From  the  mouth  of  the  Kipni'uk  River  to  Pdstol  Bay  the  coast 
is  occupied  with  the  Yukon  delta.  It  is  everywhere  low  and 
nearly  level ;  from  Cape  D)er  to  Cape  SJialloiv  Water  of  Cook 
{Point  Romanoff  and  Point  Azido^akak  of  the  Russian  charts) 
there  are  no  landmarks  whatever. 

The  water  off  this  part  of  the  coast  is  very  shallow,  and  close 
to  shore  is  often  nearly  dry  in  strong  northers,  with  the  exception 
of  the  Kiisilvak  and  Kutlik  channels.  The  Kipni'uk  or  BlacI: 
River  is  a  narrow  and  rather  shallow  streaui,  and  eniplic  lu 

three  or  four  sloughs,  the  most  northerly  of  which  has  been  ci' d 

the  Devils  Slong/t,  because  it  is  so  extremely  tortuous.  Here 
immense  quantities  of  wild  fowl  breed  ;  eggs  and  birds  in  their 
season  are  found  in  incalculable  numbers.  At  the  mouth  of  al- 
most every  slough  or  river,  Innuit  villages  may  be  found.  North- 
east three  or  four  miles  from  the  mouth  of  the  Devil's  Slough  is  a 
small  river,  at  the  mouth  of  which  is  situated  the  Ti'e-atee-cgc- 
nint  villaere.  About  five  miles  farther  in  the  same  direction  is 
the  mouth  of  the  SontJi  Slough  of  the  Yukon.  This  is  one  of 
the  longest  and  most  .shallow  of  the  Yukon-mouths.  It  is  fre- 
quently too  dry  for  the  passage  of  bidarkas.  North  of  this 
mouth  off  shore  are  five  dry  sand-bars  or  islands.  Northeast 
three  miles  is  the  mouth  of  the  Kiisilvak  Slough.  This  is  the 
true  Yukon-mouth,  being  the  only  one  which  carries  a  deep 
channel  out  to  sea.  The  mouth  of  the  Kiisilvak  is  in  (approx- 
imate) Ion.  164°  W.  and  lat.  62°  26'  N.  There  is  a  village  on  the 
south  point  called  Kioei'-ahogevint,  and  one  on  the  north  point 
known  as  Oniisr-antio-ejnnt.  lietwcen  them  we  have  nine  fathoms, 
and  the  depth  decreases  as  we  ascend  the  slough  about  a  fathom 
a  mile,  until  we  have  four  or  five  fathoms,  which  may  be  carried 
up  the  Yukon  without  interruption,  three  hundred  miles,  to  the 
mouth  of  the  Anvik  River. 

Passing  to  the  westward  from  between  the  villages,  the  channel 


GEOGRAPHY  OF  ALASKA. 


265 


ithcast  of  the 
Tinon  Bay,  in 
lief  of  Marine 
affords  good 
it  wind.  The 
irshy,  and  full 

Bay  the  coast 
here  low  and 
VatcT  of  Cook 
ussian  charts) 

low,  and  close 

I  the  exception 

ni'uk  or  Black 

id  eniplic-  1m 

las  been  ci'.  ..tl 

irtuous.     Here 

birds  in  their 

e  mouth  of  al- 

ound.     Nortli- 

il's  Slough  is  a 

e   Ti'c-atcc-cgc- 

je  direction  is 

his  is  one  of 

ths.     It  is  fre- 

North   of  this 

Is.     Northeast 

This  is  the 

arries  a   deep 

is  in  (approx- 

village  on  the 

le  north  point 

nine  fathoms, 

bout  a  fathom 

nay  be  carried 

miles,  to  the 

s,  the  channel 


goes  between  the  two  largest  sand-bars,  carrying  nine,  eight,  sev- 
en, and  just  between  the  eastern  points  of  the  bars  five,  three, 
and  at  last  two  and  a  half  fathoms,  about  eight  miles  from  the 
mouth  of  the  Kiisilvak.  This  is  the  shallowest  place.  Thence 
the  channel  trends  southwesterly,  with  three  and  three  and  a  half 
fathoms,  then  passing  on  either  side  of  a  long  bar,  on  the  north 
side  we  get  four  fathoms  steadily  for  as  many  miles,  when  it  de- 
creases off  the  point  of  the  long  bar  to  three,  then  three  and  a 
half,  four,  and  five,  gradually  trending  in  a  more  southerly  direc- 
tion as  far  as  sounded,  which  was  about  eight  miles  west  of  the 
mouth  of  the  Kipni'uk  River.  This  channel,  is  indicated  in  the 
map  which  accompanies  Baer  and  Helmersen's  Beitrage  (St.  Pe- 
tersburg, 1839),  though  without  any  soundings.  That  map  was 
probably  drawn  from  information  derived  from  the  explorations 
of  Glasunoff,  in  1835-38,  through  Admiral  Wrangell. 

The  length  of  the  Kiisilvak  is  about  forty-five  miles,  and  its 
course  from  the  mouth  is  nearly  southeast.  It  is  three  or  four 
miles  in  width.  The  point  north  of  the  mouth  separates  it  from  a 
wide  but  shallow  slough,  named  the  American  mouth  by  Captain 
Smith.  This  trends  in  a  northeast  direction,  and  opens  into  the 
Kwilxlipak  mouth  of  the  Yukon.  This  is  wide,  but  also  shallow, 
and  ofiers  no  navigable  channel  by  which  to  enter  the  Yukon.  It 
debouches  on  the  coast  about  lat.  62°  41'.  For  a  description  of  the 
many  and  intricate  sloughs  which  intersect  the  delta,  the  reader  is 
referred  to  the  map.     The  Kwikhpak  is  about  fifty  miles  long. 

71ie  most  northern  slough  or  mouth  of  the  Yukon  opens  into  Pas- 
tel Br^y,  and  has  a  depth  of  three  fathoms.    It  is  called  the  Uplioon 
by  ",:ie  Russians.     Through  this  slough  the  goods  for  the  trading- 
'    ts  01    the  Yukon  and  Kuskoqufm  were  always  carried.     Their 
•oi,v> .  \  '!s  about  as  follows.     Taking  advantage  of  a  high  tide, 
the  I'    .c  frcm  Redoubt  St.  Michael's  entered  the  northern  end  of 
the  cho  \  ji  or  Canal  which  separates  the  island  of  St.  Michael's 
from  th  ;  mainland.    On  the  bar  at  this  entrance  five  feet  of  water 
may  be  obtained  in  the  channel  during  spring  tides.     Once  over 
this  bar,  which   is  about  two  miles  broad,  two  fathoms  or  more 
wat'  r  is  found  in  the  Canal.     Passing  through  the  Canal  and  by 
the  mouth  of  the  Pikmiktalik  River,  the  next  difficulty  is  experi- 
nccd  off  Point  Romanoff.     Here  the  water  is  very  shallow  for  a 
' "  (  distance  offshore  ;  three  miles  out,  at  a  proper  season  of  the 


^^ 


"a 


266 


GEOGRAPHY   OF   ALASKA. 


i 


'I!:  ■  'I 


If 


tide,  four  or  five  feet  may  be  obtained.  With  a  north  wind  all 
this  is  nearly  dry.  A  pilot  is  needed  to  carry  the  vessel  through 
the  shallows  of  Pastol  Bay  ;  but  once  over  them  and  into  the 
Uphoon,  no  further  trouble  is  experienced.  Vessels  diawing  not 
over  four  feet  can  in  this  way  safely  enter  the  Yukon.  The  tides 
at  the  Yukon-mouth  average  three  feet,  spring  tides  five  feet,  but 
the  rise  is  greater  just  inside  the  mouths  on  account  of  the  slack 
water.  There  is  but  little  saltness  to  the  water  off  the  delta,  and 
it  is  discolored  for  miles  out  of  sight  of  land.  There  is  little  doubt 
that  the  shallow  plateau  of  Bering  Sea  is  due  to  the  detritus 
brought  down  by  the  Yukon,  Kuskoqi'iim,  and  other  rivers.  Near 
the  mouth  of  the  Uphoon  there  is  a  Russian  house  and  barrabora 
called  Kutlik.  Not  far  beyond  is  the  village  of  Pas  to  I ik,  at  the 
mouth  '  ^'v'  Pastolik  River,  and  the  shore  of  Pastol  Bay  curves 
gently  to.  :he  east  and  north  to  Point  Romiinoff.    A  small 

stream,  the  i  ...itoliak,  comes  in  from  the  lakes  and  marshes  back 
of  Pastolik. 

Point  Romanoff  is  a  solitary  rounded  hill  of  metamorphic  sili- 
cious  rock,  in  lat.  63°  06'  and  Ion.  162°  48'  W.  (approximate).  It 
forms  the  north  extremity  of  Pastol  Bay.  Beyond  it  the  coast  is 
low,  strewn  with  volcanic  rocks,  and  trending  eastward  and  north- 
eastward to  tb'^  mouth  of  the  Pikmiktalik  River.  Northeast  eidit 
miles  in  Ion.  162°  W.  is  the  southwestern  entrance  of  the  Canal, 
Due  north  is  the  channel  between  Stuart  and  St.  Mkliacl  isl- 
ands. In  the  north  entrance  to  this  channel  three  fathoms  may 
be  obtained,  with  shelter  from  most  winds,  and  great  abundance 
of  dry  driftwood,  much  of  it  large  enough  for  masts  or  .spars, 
West  and  southwest  of  the  north  point  of  Stuart  Island,  the  line 
of  three  fathoms  may  be  drawn,  extending  southward  along  the 
coast  to  the  Kiisilvak  Channel,  thirty  miles  off  shore.  The  water 
shoals  very  gradually,  and  the  bottom  is  soft  and  makes  good  hold- 
ing ground.  The  shores  of  the  islands  are  rocky,  and  offer  few 
good  points  for  landing.  Good  water  cannot  be  obtained  upon 
them. 

In  Tdbaikoff  Cove,  on  the  eastern  point  of  St.  Michael  Island, 
is  situated  Redoubt  St.  Jl/ie/iae/,  in  lat.  65°  28'  and  Ion.  161° 
51' 54"  (Kellett).  Northeast  ten  miles  from  the  eastern  point 
of  St.  Michael's  Island  is  E^^  Islaud,  about  which  anchorage  in 
three  and  a  half  fathoms,  mud  and  shell,  may  be  obtained.     Two 


ii 


)• 


s 


GEOGRAPHY  OF  ALASKA. 


167 


north  wind  all 
vessel  through 
I  and  into  the 
Is  diavving  not 
on.  The  tides 
:s  five  feet,  but 
it  of  the  slack 

the  delta,  and 
e  is  little  doubt 
to  the  detritus 
;r  rivers.    Near 

and  barrabora 
Pastolik,  at  the 
5tol  Bay  curves 
in  off-  A  small 
\  marshes  back 

itamorphic  sili- 
proximate).  It 
d  it  the  coast  is 
i^ard  and  north- 
S^ortheast  eight 

e  of  the  Canal, 
St.  Michael  isl- 

;e  fathoms  may 

eat  abundance 

nasts  or  spars, 
sland,  the  line 

vard  along  the 
c.     The  water 

akes  good  hold- 
,  and  offer  few 

obtained  upon 

^Tichacl  Island, 
and  Ion.   161 
eastern  point 
anchorage  in 
btained.     Two 


and  a  half  fathoms  may  be  carried  well  up  into  the  Cove,  until 
opposite  the  boat-house.  This  is  the  best  place  for  small  vessels. 
The  rise  and  fall  of  tides  in  the  Cove  will  not  average  over  four 
feet.  The  second  tide  is  very  uncertain,  and  sometimes  hardly 
perceptible.  They  all  depend  much  upon  the  wind.  A  strong 
north  wind  will  sometimes  diminish  the  depth  of  water  by  six 
feet  in  twenty-four  hours,  and  a  strong  south  wind  may  raise  the 
water  three  or  four  feet  in  the  same  time.  Vessels  coming  in  to 
the  Cove  should  keei?  well  off  shore  until  past  Egg  Island.  The 
small  cove  where  boats  land  is  full  of  rocks,  and  care  should  be 
taken  to  avoid  one  which  lies  directly  in  the  middle  of  the  en- 
trance. Fresh  fish,  game,  or  deer  meat  can  usually  be  obtained 
here  by  vessels.  Good  water  can  be  obtained  directly  on  the 
shoro  of  the  mainland,  in  a  small  rocky  cove  opposite  the  Re- 
doubt. 

The  shores  of  Norton  Sound,  trending  eastwardly  and  northeast- 
wardly to  Tolstoi  Point,  arc  rocky,  and  present  no  boat  harbors  or 
good  landing-places.  A  few  —  the  Majors  Cove,  Kegiktoivriik 
Coir,  and  a  cove  near  the  mouth  of  the  Golsova  River  —  afford 
some  protection  for  skin  boats.  Beyond,  and  close  under  Tolstoi 
Point,  small  vessels  will  find  protection  from  south  and  southeast 
winds,  in  four  fathoms,  sandy  bottom.  Beyond  we  have  a  narrow 
sandy  beach,  covered  to  the  base  of  the  perpendicular  bluffs  at 
high  water.  Off  the  mouth  of  the  Unalakli'k  River  extensive  shoals 
prevail,  but  three  miles  off  shore  five  fathoms  may  be  obtained. 
The  fort  at  the  mouth  of  the  river,  according  to  Kashcvarofif,  is  in 
lat.  6^"  52'  36"  and  Ion.  161°  51'  54".  North-northwest  from  the 
fort  lies  Besboroitgh  Island,  in  lat.  64°  06'  30"  and  Ion.  161°  07'. 
This  is  probably  too  far  east,  and  neither  of  the  above  positions 
can  be  relied  upon. 

Inside  of  Besborough  Island,  anchorage  may  be  obtained  in 
four  fathoms  in  northerly  and  easterly  weather.  The  water  near 
the  shores  and  in  the  greater  part  of  Norton  Bay  is  very  shal- 
low ;  hardly  deep  enough  for  boats  in  the  head  of  the  bay.  Cape 
Iknbigh  on  the  east  and  Cape  Darby  on  the  west  form  the 
heads.  Numerous  shallow  rivers  empty  into  the  bay.  The  coun- 
try east  of  Norton  Sound  and  Bay  rises  into  rolling  hills  from 
five  to  fifteen  hundred  feet  in  height.  West  of  Cape  Darby 
IS  Golofiilna  Bay,  named  by  Etolin  from  the  vessel  in  which  he 


Ms  ^' 


268 


GEOGRAPHY  OF  ALASKA. 


explored  it  in  1820.     The  shores  are  high  and  rocky,  and  good 
protection  from  all  winds  is  reported  at  the  head  of  the  bay,  in  j 
four  fathoms,  sand.     Here  a  shallow  lagoon,  known  as  Golovin\ 
Sound,  empties.      From  the  similarity  of  the  names  some  con- 
fusion has  resulted.     This  lagoon  is  said  to  be  connected,  by  the! 
Fish  River  and  a  series  of  lakes,  with  Grantlcy  Harbor,  so  that,  in 
summer,  skin  boats  may  pass  from  the  one  to  the  other  without  a 
portage.      The  northern  shores  of  Norton  Sound  are  high  and 
rolling.     Point  Nome,  the  most  southern  land  west  of  Golofni'na 
Bay,  is  situated  in  Ion.  165°.     Beyond  it,  the  coast  trends  in  a 
northwesterly  direction  to  Point  Rodney  and  Bering  Strait.     The 
former  is  situated  in  lat.  64°  39'  and  Ion.  166°  18',  according  to 
Beechey.    Aziak  or  Sledge  Island  of  Cook,  on  the  same  authority, 
is  in  lat.  64°  29'  30"  and  Ion.  166°  01'  30,"  about  eleven  miles  off 
shore,      tlkivok  or  King  Island  is  situated  in  lat.  64°  58'  30"  and  [ 
Ion.  167°  58'. 

Port  Clarence  is   protected  on  the  south  and  west  by  a  long  I 
low  point  of  land,  and  affords  a  secure  anchorage.     On  a  small 
sand-spit  is  the  Innuit  village  of  Nodkmut.     Grantlcy  Harbor  is 
situated  at  the  head  of  the  bay,  and  affords  excellent  anchorage  in  [ 
four  fathoms.     This  harbor  is  perfectly  protected,  and  vessels  of 
various  exploring  expeditions  have  frequently  wintered  there.    A I 
large  lagoon  or  lake  opens  into  it  from  the  east,  near  Tdksnmut  | 
village. 

The  nort'^ern  shore  of  Port  Clarence  is  high,  and  trends  north- 
ward and  westward  to  Cape  Prince  of  Wales.    This,  the  most| 
western  land  of  the  American  continent,  is  situated  in  lat.  65° 
33'  30"  and  Ion.  167°  59'   12".     The  native  name  is  King-dgan. 
North  of  it  the  shore  is  low  and  gradually  trends  more  and  more  | 
to  the  eastward,  the  only  indentation  being  the  shallow  Shishma- 
re ff  Inlet.     About  Ion.   163°  34',  Cape  Spanbcrg  forms  the  most  I 
northern  point  of  the  peninsula,  and  the  western  head  of  Kotzcbiu\ 
Sound. 

The  great  peninsula  enclosed  by  the  waters  of  Norton  Bay  and  I 
Sound,  Bering  Strait,  the  Arctic  Ocean,  and  Kotzebue  Sound,  it 
is  proposed  to  call  the  Kdviak  Pcninsida,  from  the  native  name  | 
of  Kavi-fak  and  the  Kaviak  Innuit  who  inhabit  it. 

Kotzebue  Sound   is   comparatively  shallow,  fourteen  fathoms  | 
being  the  greatest  depth  reported.     To  the  eastward  it  is  pro- 


!  M' 


GEOGRAPHY  OF   ALASKA. 


269 


nd  trends  north- 


longed  into  several  shallow  inlets.  Escholtz  Inlet  or  Bay,  known 
as  Kihiguk  to  the  natives,  receives  the  waters  of  the  Kiinguk 
River.  Hot/iam  Inlet  receives  the  Inland  and  Kowak  rivers, 
and  through  Selawik  Lake  the  waters  of  the  Selawik  River. 

From  Cape  Kritsenstern,  the  nor^h  head  of  the  Sound,  the 
coast  trends  to  the  northwest,  with  many  shallow  lagoons  along 
shore.  The  country  inland  is  generally  low,  with  a  few  hills.  In 
lat.  68°  21'  Point  Hope  projects  into  the  sea.  It  is  a  long,  low, 
sandy  point,  and  reaches  Ion.  166°  48',  with  a  shoal  extending 
several  miles  west  of  it.  North  of  it  the  coast  is  high,  to  Cape 
Lisbnrne,  in  lat.  G$^  56'  and  Ion.  166°  08'.  Here  the  shore  trends 
suddenly  eastward  to  Cape  Beaufort,  in  lat.  69°  13'  and  Ion.  163° 
34'  Northeasterly  the  coast  is  again  low,  and  we  reach  Icy  Cape 
of  Look,  in  lat.  70°  20'  and  Ion.  161°  40'.  The  next  cape.  Point 
Bamiv,  is  the  most  northern  land  of  Alaska  territory,  and  is  situ- 
ated ill  lat.  71°  27'.  The  coast  now  turns  to  the  eastward  and 
southward,  and  about  twenty-two  miles  from  Point  Barrow  is 
Dense  Inlet,  a  shallow  and  deep  indentation  of  the  coast.  In  Ion. 
150°  42'  the  Colvile  River  empties  into  the  Arctic  Ocean.  Pro- 
ceeding eastward,  we  finally  arrive  at  Demarcation  Point,  in  lat. 
69^  40'  and  Ion.  141°  of  30"  W.,  which  brings  us  nearly  to  the 
boundary  line.  The  whole  northern  coast  is  low,  without  good 
harbors,  and  fringed  with  numerous  shoals.  Inland  it  rises  into 
hills  and  low  mountains,  which  have  been  plentifully  bespattered 
with  names  by  the  English  explorers.  The  most  important,  as 
regards  height,  is  the  Romanzoff  range.  There  are  a  few  villages 
of  the  western  Eskimo  along  the  coast,  and  between  Point  Bar- 
row and  Cape  Lisburne. 

It  may  not  be  out  of  place  here  to  mention  that  East  Cape,  the 
most  eastern  land  of  Asia,  is  situated  in  lat.  66°  03'  06",  and  Ion. 
169°  43'  48",  according  to  Beechey.  From  Cape  Prince  of  Wales 
to  East  Cape  is  fifty-four  miles,  from  the  former  lu  Fairway  Rock 
i!i  nineteen  miles,  thence  to  Ratmanoff  Island  thirteen  miles,  and 
thence  to  East  Cape  twenty-two  miles.  Nine  miles  northwest  ot 
Cape  Chukotski,  the  most  southern  land  of  the  Chiikchee  penin- 
sula, is  the  entrance  to  Plover  Bay,  in  lat.  64°  23'  30"  and  Ion. 
173°  26'.  This  fine  bay  is  the  general  rendezvous  of  the  whalers 
and  trading  vessels  in  the  fall.  It  contains  several  very  good 
anchorages,  the  most  protected  of  which  is  Snug  Harbor,  at  the 


m 


illi 


;j 


'I 


•:: 


mil, 


■■  \ 


270 


GEOGRAPHY   OF   ALASKA. 


north  end  of  the  hay,  behind  IV/ialc  hhiud.  Here,  and  in  livnna 
Harbor,  another  arm  of  the  bay,  any  vessel  might  safely  winter. 
The  bay  is  surrounded  on  all  sides  by  high,  rocky  hills,  the  prin- 
cipal of  which,  Mount  Kennicott,  I  found  to  be  2,343  ^^^'t  h'o'i. 
The  rounded  hill  which  fronts  the  sea  to  the  cast  of  the  entrance 
is  known  as  J3ald  Head.  The  barren  hills  give  this  bay  a  cheer- 
less aspect  to  the  landsman  ;  but  sailors  will  find  comfort  in  the 
bountiful  supply  of  good  water,  the  secure  anchorage,  and  tlie 
tame  reindeer  meat  and  fish  which  may  be  obtained  from  the  na- 
tives. Scurvy  grass  is  abundant  on  the  sandspit  in  the  bay,  but 
no  wood,  except  a  little  driftwood,  can  be  found. 

The  principal  ports  to  the  southward  are  Nizni  (or  lower) 
Kamchatka,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Kamchatka  River,  and  Petro- 
pavlovsk.  The  latter  is  situated  on  Niakina  Cove,  Avdtclia  Bay, 
and  was  founded  in  1739  by  Ivan  Jelagin,  Ikring's  pilot,  and 
named  after  the  two  vessels  of  the  expedition.  It  is  at  present 
without  a  garrison,  and  probably  does  not  contain  over  fifteen 
hundred  inhabitants.  It  is  the  residence  of  the  Governor  of 
Kamchatka,  and  the  principal  port  of  the  peninsula.  An  excel- 
lent view  of  it,  by  Frec'^rick  Whympcr,  may  be  found  in  the  Lon- 
don edition  of  Hartwig's  "  Polar  World." 

River  System.  —  The  Pacific  watershed  of  Alaska  is  much 
smaller  than  that  of  Bering  Sea.  In  most  places  the  mountains 
approach  closely  to  the  seashore,  and  the  water  discharged  by  the 
rivers  is  collected  far  inland,  and  forces  its  way  to  the  sea  through 
some  narrow  pass  or  perpendicular  canon.  Much  of  the  rainfall 
is  congealed  on  these  lofty  summits,  and  finally  reaches  the  sea 
by  slow  degrees  as  a  glacier-torrent. 

Just  east  of  the  boundary  line,  the  Nasse  River  o^  F.fitish  Co- 
lumbia debouches  into  Observatory  Inlet.  It  is  one  of  the  most 
prolific  in  fish  of  the  rivers  that  flow  into  the  Pacific.  Its  course, 
as  determined  by  the  Western  Union  Telegraph  explorers,  is  very 
difierent  from  that  laid  down  for  it  on  most  maps.  Rising  in  a 
small  lake,  near  the  head-waters  of  the  Skoot  River,  it  flows  south- 
ward about  fifty  miles,  then  southeast  and  southwest  in  a  broad 
curve,  until  it  falls  into  the  Inlet.  Part  of  its  course  is  narrow 
and  rapid,  over  falls  and  through  caiions,  near  which  are  Indian 
fishing  villages.  It  is  not  navigable  for  more  than  a  quarter  of 
its  length.     At  its  mouth  is  an  English  trading-post. 


'i 


GEOGRAPHY  OF  ALASKA. 


271 


re,  and  m/ti/nna 
ht  safely  winter, 
y^  hills,  the  prin- 

2,343  <"^t;t  hi-;h. 

of  the  entrance 
:his  bay  a  cheer- 
d  comfort  in  the 
borate,  and  the 
ned  from  the  na- 
t  in  the  bay,  but 

STizni  (or  lower) 
liver,  and  Petro- 
z'c;  Avdicha  Bay, 
ring's  pilot,  and 
It  is  at  present 
tain  over  fifteen 
he  Governor  of 
snla.  An  excel- 
)und  in  the  Lon- 

\laska  is  much 
;s  the  mountains 
ischargcd  by  the 

the  sea  through 
of  the  rainfall 

reaches  the  sea 

"r  of  Efitish  Co- 
one  of  the  most 
ific.  Its  course, 
xplorers,  is  very 
3S.  Rising  in  a 
■,  it  flows  south- 
west in  a  broad 
ourse  is  narrow 
k'hich  are  Indian 
m  a  quarter  ot 

3St. 


The  next  river  of  large  size  is  the  Stikiiic.  This  has  become 
well  known  on  account  of  the  gold-diggings  on  its  banks.  These 
arc  all  situated  in  British  territory.  The  course  of  the  Stikine 
has  been  determined  by  the  explorers  of  the  Western  Union  Tele- 
graph lv\pedition.  One  of  their  stations  was  situated  near  the 
mouth  of  the  north  fork  in  lat.  57^  28'  N.  and  Ion.  129°  56'  \V. 

The  head-waters  of  the  South  Fork  and  I'ittfiekl  branch  extend 
as  far  cast  as  Ion.  127°.  The  entire  length  is  over  two  hundred 
and  fifty  miles,  and  it  is  navigable  only  for  boats.*  The  North  Fork 
is  about  forty  miles  long,  and  rises  on  the  east  side  of  the  Bald 
Mountains,  near  the  head-waters  of  the  Yukon.  The  Russians, 
under  Commander  Bassarguinc,  explored  the  river  for  about 
sixty-five  miles  in   1863. 

A  small  stream,  called  the  Taku  (not  Tahco),  flows  into  Glacier 
Arm  of  Stephen's  Strait.  About  1840  it  was  ascended  for 
thirty-five  miles,  by  Mr.  Douglas  of  the  Hudson  Bay  Company. 
It  is  less  than  sixty  miles  in  length,  and  on  old  maps  was  usually 
prolonged  far  into  the  interior,  and  confounded  with  the  Tahco 
River,  one  of  the  streams  which  form  the  Yukon.  This  error  was 
corrected  by  the  Telegraph  explorers.  The  current  is  very  rapid ; 
the  stream  is  narrow,  flowing  between  stupendous  mountains, 
and  navigable  only  for  canoes,  with  frequent  portages. 

The  Chilkdht  River,  a  much  larger  stream,  enters  the  northern 
extremity  of  Tynn  Chann  d.  The  general  direction  of  this  river  is 
from  the  north.  It  is  said  to  flow  between  bare  and  precipitous 
cliffs,  destitute  of  timber.  The  Indians  ascend  it,  against  a  very 
rapid  current,  in  twenty  days,  when  they  make  a  portage  by  sev- 
eral lakes  to  the  Lewis  River,  a  tributary  of  the  Yukon.  This 
portage  is  laid  down  on  the  map  which  accompanies  this  volume, 
from  an  Indian  sketch  map.  The  river  is  probably  a  hundred 
miles  long,  with  numerous  branches.  Iron  ore  is  reported  by 
Mr.  Davidson  to  exist  in  the  vicinity  of  the  mouth. 

Northwest  of  Cape  Fairweather  the  river  Alsckli  flows  by  five 
mouths  into  the  sea.  The  ground  through  which  these  pass  is  so 
low,  that  at  very  high  water  it  is  covered  by  the  sea,  forming  a 
lagoon  fifteen  miles  long  and  twelve  wide,  which  has  received  the 
name  of  Dry  Bay.  It  was  named  by  La  Pcrouse  Bering s  River, 
and  is  supposed  to  be  a  .short  stream. 

*''  It  is  said,  during  tiie  s])ring  fresineis,  which  greatly  swell  the  river,  to  be  navigable 
for  small  steamers,  with  difficulty,  for  a  hundred  miles  or  more. 


4 


i(- 


272 


GEOGRAPHY  OF  ALASKA. 


'!    M 


In  lat.  60°  17'  and  Ion.  145°  20'  lies  the  mouth  of  the  Atm 
or  Copper  River.  The  delta  is  thirty  miles  long  by  four  or  five 
wide,  and  is  overgrown  with  willow.  The  principal  mouth  is 
at  the  northwest  end  of  the  delta.  Here  is  an  Innuit  vilh.^e 
(Alaganik).  The  lower  part  of  the  river  flows  through  low 
ground,  with  many  lakes.  Our  knowledge  of  the  course  of 
this  river  is  due  to  the  researches  of  a  Russian,  named  Scre- 
brdnikoft^,  and  is  rather  dubious.  He  was  killed  by  the  native- 
for  his  bad  conduct,  but  his  papers  were  delivered  up.  Thcit 
are  said  to  be  rapids  seventeen  miles  above  the  delta,  and  from 
them  the  river  pursues  a  northerly  course.  About  one  hun- 
dred miles  above  the  rapids  a  branch  called  the  Chccliiiiw  falls 
into  the  Copper  River.  At  this  point  a  single  Russian  re- 
mained for  a  few  years  and  traded  with  the  natives.  A  river 
enters  from  the  west,  which  heads  in  a  lake  from  which  a  port- 
age can  be  made  to  the  Fire  {Knik)  River,  which  falls  into 
Cook's  Inlet.  Little  is  really  known  about  the  Atna  River,  but 
the  banks  are  said  to  be  mountainous,  well  wooded,  and  with  r 
casional  glaciers.  The  precise  locality  of  the  copper  from  which 
it  takes  its  name  is  unknown.  It  is  found  in  rolled  masses  of 
native  metal,  similar  to  that  found  in  the  Lake  Superior  district, 
and  the  locality  is  supposed  to  be  within  a  hundred  miles  of  the 
mouth.  It  has  long  been  an  article  of  trade  with  the  Indians; 
one  of  the  articles  which  Bering's  expedition  found  on  the  coast 
where  they  landed  in  1741,  was  a  whetstone  on  which  copper 
knives  had  been  sharpened.  The  natives  knew  nothing  of  iron 
before  the  traders  came,  but  it  was  an  easy  matter  to  beat  a  rude 
knife  out  of  native  copper. 

No  streams  of  any  size  fall  into  Chugach  Gulf  Two,  however, 
empty  into  Cook's  Inlet. 

The  Knik  *  or  Fire  River  falls  into  Turnagain  Arm  from  the 
northeast.  It  was  examined  by  Cook  and  Vancouver.  It  is  only 
navigable  for  twelve  miles,  when  it  becomes  wide  and  shallow. 
The  Russians  are  said  to  have  ascended  it  in  skin  boats  to  a  lake 
called  Plavdjiio,  whence  by  portage  and  river  travel  the  Copper 
River  may  be  reached.  Our  knowledge  of  it  is  slight,  and  it  is 
supposed  to  be  less  than  one  hundred  miles  long. 

A  few  miles  northwest  of  the  Fire  River  mouth  lies  the  mouth 


*  Erroneously  written  Kuyck,  Kweek,  Knuyk,  Kook,  &c. 


GEOGRAI'HY  OF  ALASKA. 


^73 


Two,  however, 


of  the  Suchitna  River,  with  a  broad  shoal  across  it.  M;ilakoff  is 
said  to  have  explored  it  in  1834.  Its  course  is  mapped  from 
Russian  sources,  and  it  is  supposed  to  be  several  hundred  miles 
long,  but  we  know  nothing  of  it  with  certainty. 

On  the  east  shore  of  the  Inlet  are  the  small  StaricJikoff  and 
Kdkna  rivers.  They  are  insignificant  streams  fed  by  glaciers. 
In  the  sands  of  the  latter,  Doroshin  was  said  to  have  found 
gold. 

West  of  Augustin  Island  is  a  small  stream,  by  which,  through 
the  mountain  gorges,  a  portage  is  made  to  Lake  Ilidmua.  From 
the  northwest  slope  of  the  peninsula  of  Aliaska  several  small 
rivers  flow  into  Bristol  Bay.  The  country  between  and  at  the 
bases  of  the  high  mountains,  which  form  the  prolongation  of  the 
Alaskan  Range  in  the  peninsula,  is  very  low  and  marshy.  In 
many  places  large  lakes  are  found,  some  of  which  are  so  near 
the  level  of  the  sea  that  the  water  is  brackish.  These  empty  into 
the  sea  by  rivers  on  either  side,  and  it  is  said,  that  in  some  places 
a  portage,  or  rather  passage,  can  be  made  in  canoes  from  one 
shore  of  the  peninsula  to  the  other,  hardly  lifting  the  canoe  out 
of  water  during  the  journey.  The  larger  of  the  rivers  which 
flow  into  Bristol  Bay  as  we  go  eastward  are  the  Siilima,  the 
Ugagtik,  the  Ndknek,  and  the  Kzuieliak.  All  derive  their  water 
from  lakes  of  lesser  or  greater  size,  and  the  last  from  the  great 
Lake  Iliamna.  This  lake,  though  known  for  a  generation,  is  yet 
unexplored.  It  is  supposed  to  be  rather  shallow,  and  is  known  to 
be  over  eighty  miles  long,  and  about  twenty-four  broad,  —  fully 
half  as  large  as  Lake  Ontario.  It  has  been  mapped  as  SluHikoff 
Lake,  but  the  native  name  is  quite  as  appropriate  and  more 
euphonious. 

North  of  Bristol  Bay  is  situated  Fort  Alexandra,  one  of  the 
Russian  trading-posts,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Ntishcrgdk  River. 
This  is  a  large  stream,  but  shallow,  and  the  harbor  is  a  poor  one. 
This  river  is  very  tortuous,  flowing  between  hills,  and  deriving  it-^ 
supply  from  large  mountain  lakes. 

In  lat.  61°  20'  N.  the  head-waters  of  a  branch  of  the  Kusko- 
quim  interlock  with  those  of  the  Nushergak. 

On  the  right  bank  a  large  stream,  called  the  Aleknagdk,  falls 
into  the  Nushergak  near  its  mouth,  heading  in  a  large  lake  of 
the  same  name.  About  seventy-five  miles  above  the  Russian 
18 


2  74 


GEOGRAPHY   OF   ALASKA. 


illlll 


post,  another  river  is  said  to  come  in  from  the  westward.  The 
head-waters  of  the  Nushergak  arc  in  a  very  mountainous  country, 
said  to  be  volcanic. 

The  whole  length  of  the  river  is  said  to  be  about  one  hundred 
and  fifty  miles,  but  no  satisfactory  explorations  have  yet  been 
made.  To  the  westward  a  chain  of  rivers  and  lakes  is  said,  on 
the  authority  of  the  natives,  to  connect  with  the  head-waters  ol 
the  A/i/ii-'i'  RiviT,  which  falls  into  the  Kuskoqiiim.  The  winter 
mail  to  aiid  from  the  K61mako(T  Redoubt  on  the  Kuskoqiiim  is 
carried  by  natives,  who  go  up  the  Nushergdk,  crossing  to  the 
Hulitnak  River,  passing  down  that  to  the  Kuskoqiiim,  and  then 
down  the  Kuskoqiiim  fiftv  miles  to  the  Redoubt.  No  white  man 
has  ever  penetrated  into  this  wilderness,  and  the  reports  of  the 
natives  greatly  magnify  the  rugged  character  and  grand  scenery 
of  the  portage.  One  part  of  it  is  said  to  be  made  through  a 
chasm  ony  a  few  yards  wide  between  two  volcanic  mountains. 
Zeolites,  sulphur,  and  blue  carbonate  of  copper  have  been  received 
as  from  this  region,  and  the  goshawk  is  said  to  abound  there. 

In  lat.  60°  N.  Ion.  162°  W.,  at  the  head  of  Kuskoqiiim  Bay,  the 
Kuskoquim  River  enters  the  sea.  This  is  the  second  larofesi 
river  in  Alaska,  and  the  largest  whose  watershed  is  confir  0 
the  terriiory.  In  latitude  it  extends  from  60°  to  nearly  t 
and  in  longitude  from  153°  to  162°  W.  Its  total  length  is  esti- 
mated at  between  five  and  six  hundred  miles.  Its  principal 
tributary  is  the  HuHtnak,  before  mentioned.  The  head-waters, 
though  annually  visited  by  traders,  have  never  been  satisfactorily 
explored  or  mapped. 

In  1832,  Ivan  Simdnsen  Lukeen,  a  Creole,*  was  sent,  with  a 
party  of  natives,  up  the  Nushergdk  River  to  explore  the  portage 
to  the  Hulitnak  River  and  the  Kuskoquim  beyond.  In  1818 
the  mouth  had  been  visited  by  Korsakoff,  and  in  1820,  K61- 
makoff,  bidarshik  of  Nushergdk  Fort,  explored  the  river  for  a 
considerable  distance.  Trading  parties  annually  visited  it,  but 
no  post  was  established  until  Luke^n's  expedition,  though  K61- 
makoif  made  a  second  visit  there  in  1830.      About   fifty  miles 

*  Ivan  Lukeen,  was  born  of  Russian  and  Spanish-American  Creole  parsnts,  iii  the 
Ri)SS  colony  in  California,  about  1820,  according  to  his  own  st.itcmcnt  to  mc.  lie  was 
well  educated  in  the  Sitka  school,  and  proved  active,  energetic,  and  intelligent.  At 
the  time  of  his  expedition  he  was  acting  as  clerk  for  Kolmakoflf.  He  was  extremely 
short,  muscular,  of  a  swarthy  complexion,  and  pleasant  good-humored  expression. 


GEOGRAPHY   OF    ALASKA. 


275 


below  the  mouth  of  the  HuHtnak  on  the  Kuskoquim,  Lukccn 
built  a  quadrangular  stockade,  enclosing  several  buildings,  which 
was  called  Lukeen's  Fort.  He  was  installed  as  commander,  and 
reigned  there,  so  to  speak,  for  seven  years.  An  excellent  inter- 
preter, speaking  the  Innuit  languages  of  the  Lower  Ki.skoquim 
with  fluency,  he  adopted  a  mode  of  life  not  dissimiar  in  some 
respects  to  that  of  the  natives,  among  whom  he  att^'ined  great 
iuthience.  In  1835,  Glasunoff  explored  the  mouth  of  the  Kusko- 
quim, and  from  that  time  forth  the  post  was  elevated  to  the 
dignity  of  a  Redoubt,  for  which  the  supplies  were  carried  in 
boats  up  the  river.  In  1841  some  parts  of  the  post  were  de- 
stroyed with  fire  by  the  Indians.  Kolmakoff,  then  Uprovali'sha 
of  Fort  Alexandra  at  Nushergak,  was  sent  to  the  Kuskoquim  and 
rebuilt  the  Redoubt,  which  then  took  his  name.  In  1SC6  the 
garrison,  in  charge  of  Uprovalfsha  Dementoft",  was  withdrawn, 
and  the  post  dismantled.  After  the  establishment  of  posts  on 
the  Lower  Yukon,  the  goods  for  Kolmakoff  Redoubt  were  carried 
up  the  Yukon  and  across  a  portage,  in  lat.  61°  40'  30",  to  the  Kus- 
koquim. This  was  done  on  account  of  the  diffi'  ulty  of  taking 
goods  up  stream  against  the  rapid  current  of  the  Kuskoquim. 

About  latitude  Ci''  N.  a  small  river,  known  as  the  K^ciiic/iagdk, 
debouches  into  the  shallow  waters  of  Etolin  Bay  northeast  of 
Cape  Vancouver.  It  has  not  been  explored,  but  is  known  to 
be  shallow,  and  is  supposed  to  be  about  fifty  miles  long. 

North  of  Cape  Dyer,  a  small  river,  called  by  Captain  Smith 
the  Maria  Louisa  River  {Kitn  of  the  Innuit),  empties  into  Scam- 
nion  Bay.  Ten  miles  from  the  mouth  is  a  native  settlement, 
known  as  Kuttenmut.  Several  other  shallow  streams  come  to 
the  coast  between  Scammon  Bay  and  the  Yukon  delta.  These 
are,  as  we  go  northward,  the  Muganoloxvik,  the  Popes  River,  the 
Black  or  Kipniuk  River,  and  the  Tec'-at-iokiink  River.  All  of 
these  were  formerly  supposed  to  be  sloughs  of  the  Yukon,  and 
arc  mapped  as  such  on  most  maps.  The  Black  River  is  the 
largest,  and  is  supposed  to  be  about  fifty  miles  long. 

The  Yukon  delta  occupies  the  coast  between  lat.  62°  21'  and 
62°  50'  and  extends  inland  nearly  sixty  miles.  The  deepest 
mouth  and  true  channel  is  the  Kusilvak,  but  the  widest  is  the 
Kxvikhpak.  The  Russians  entering  the  delta  by  the  UpJioou  or 
northern  mouth,  which  opens  into  the  Kwi'khpak,  and  KMrning 


m:I||| 


IP' 

Ml! 

i'l 

1 

if: 

f  I 

' 

276 


GEOGRAPHY  OF  ALASKA. 


that  name  from  the  Innuit  tribes  at  the  mouth,  have  erroneously 
applied  it  to  the  whole  river,  much  as  a  person  first  entering  the 
Ganges  might  apply  the  name  Hooghly  to  the  whole  river,  from 
the  circumstance  that  he  entered  it  by  that  mouth.  The  delta 
has  already  been  described  in  the  account  of  the  coast. 

The  head-waters  of  the  Yukon  were  known  to  the  traders  and 
trappers  of  the  Hudson  Bay  territory  early  in  this  century,  hi 
1837,  Glasunoff  explored  the  delta  of  the  Yukon,  and  ascended  [ 
the  river  as  far  as  the  mouth  of  the  Anvik  River.  The  follow- 
ing year,  Malakoff  explored  as  far  as  Nulato,  where  a  post  wa'> 
established  under  the  command  of  Notarmi.  The  garrison 
returned  to  St.  Michael's  in  the  winter,  and  the  natives  burnt 
the  fort  during  their  absence.  In  1841  a  permanent  post  was 
established  by  Derabin.  In  1S42,  Lieutenant  Zagoskin  reached 
Nulato,  and  in  the  spring  ascended  the  Yukon  as  far  as  Nowi- 
kakat.  Here  he  turned  back  and  reported  that  it  was  impossible 
for  skin  boats  to  ascend  any  farther.  In  1847,  McMurray  de- 
scended the  Porcupine  River  and  founded  the  tniding-post  of 
Fort  Yukon.  Soon  after,  Mr.  Robert  Campbell  descended  the 
Upper  Yukon  from  Fort  Selkirk,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Lewis 
River,  to  Fort  Yukon.  In  the  autumn  of  i860,  Rcbert  Kennicott 
arrived  at  Fort  Yukon,  and  in  the  spring  of  186 1  descended  as 
far  as  the  Small  Houses. 

About  this  time  the  Russians  began  to  visit  Nuklukahy^t  to 
trade  in  the  spring.  Strachan  Jones,  Esq.,  commander  at  Fort 
Yukon,  had  sent  several  parties  of  Indians  to  trade  at  the  same 
point,  and  in  18G2  descended  the  Yukon  in  boats,  as  lar  as  Nowi- 
kakat,  thus  really  completing  the  chain  of  exploration  begun  by 
Zagoskin.  Still,  as  there  was  no  communication  between  the 
English  and  Russians,  the  identity  of  the  Yukon  with  the 
Kwi'khpak  of  the  Russians  remained  unknown.  The  Russinn 
chief  trader  at  St.  Michael  heard  of  the  visit  of  the  English,  and 
determined  to  find  out  something  about  the  English  fort,  of  wliicli 
vague  rumors  had  reached  him  through  the  Indians.  Ivaii 
Simonsen  lAikeen,  before  mentioned,  was  selected  for  this  duty; 
he  accompanied  the  trading  party  to  Nuklukahyct,  and  left  tliem 
there,  reaching  Fort  Yukon,  with  the  assistance  of  the  Indians,  in 
the  summer  of  1863.  He  remained  long  enough  to  fulfil  his 
instructions,  pretending  to  be  a  runaway  from  the  Russian  ser- 


i 


ii-    ,. 


.ii 


GEOGRAPHY   OK   ALASKA. 


277 


vice;  then  stole  away  by  night  and  reached  Nuh'ito  in  his  canoe  in 
safety.  Lukeen,  therefore,  was  the  first  man  to  ascend  the  Yukon 
from  the  sea,  and  to  determine  its  identity  with  the  Kwikhpak. 
The  Russian  Company  took  no  action  in  the  matter,  and  the 
information  thus  obtained  was  not  made  public.  In  the  spring 
of  1866,  Frank  E.  Ketchum,  of  St.  John,  New  Bruiiswick,  with 
Michael  Lebarge,  of  Montreal,  Canada,  explorers  for  the  Western 
Union  Telegraph  Expedition,  in  pursuance  of  orders  received 
previous  to  the  death  of  their  commander,  Robert  Kennicott, 
ascended  the  Yukon  to  P'ort  Yukon  in  a  bidiirka  with  Lukeen, 
who  now  a  second  time  visited  the  English  post.  They  returned 
to  Nulato,  and  crossed  the  portage  to  St.  Michael's.  In  the 
month  of  March,  1867,  the  same  undaunted  explorers,  without 
Lukeen,  undertook  their  perilous  journey  with  dogs  and  sleds, 
and  arrived  safely.  May  9th,  at  Fort  Yukon.  Here  they  remained 
until  the  ice  was  well  out  of  the  river.  May  2Sth  of  the  same 
year,  Frederick  Whymper,  of  London,  and  the  writer  started  for 
Fort  Yukon  in  a  bidarni,  arriving  there  June  23d.  Meanwhile 
Ketchum  and  Lebarge  had  pushed  their  investigations  in  canoes 
as  far  as  Fort  Selkirk.  They  returned  to  Fort  Yukon,  and  in 
company  we  descended  to  the  Yukon -mouth,  and  proceeded  by 
sea  to  St.  Michael's.  During  the  summer,  Peter  McLeod,  an 
employd  of  the  Hudson  I3ay  Company,  ran  away,  and  descended 
the  river  to  Nulato,  afterward  crossing  by  the  portage  to  the 
Redoubt.  We  are  the  only  party  who  (up  to  1868)  have  de- 
scended from  the  Upper  Yukon  to  the  sea  by  the  river. 

In  August,  1867,  Michael  Byrnes,  of  British  Columbia,  explored 
the  head-waters  of  the  Yukon  from  Lakes  Kennicott  and  Ket- 
chum to  Tahco  Lake.  At  this  point  he  was  recalled,  as  the  sus- 
pension of  operations  by  the  Telegraph  Company  rendered  his 
services  no  longer  necessary.  The  short  distance  between  Lake 
Lebarge  and  Tahco  Lake  is  all  that  remains  untn  oden  by  the 
white  man.  This  portion  of  the  river  is  well  know  Trom  Indian 
reports,  so  that  ther^  is  no  question  as  to  the  identity  of  the 
Tiihco  and  the  Lewis  rivers. 

In  1867,  Captain  Elijah  Everett  Smith,  of  Edgartown,  assisted 
by  Lieutenant  Joseph  T.  Dyer,  of  Washington,  I).  C,  explored 
the  delta  of  the  Yukon,  and  to  Captain  Smith  we  owe  the  first 
chart  of  it  which  approximates  in  any  degree  to  accuracy. 


1  ,i: 

if 

i 

It 


278 


GEOGRAPHY   OF  ALASKA. 


In  the  spring  of  1868  the  writer  descended  the  Yukon  from 
Nulato  to  the  sea,  and  then  proceeded  to  the  Redoubt. 

This  completes  the  history  of  the  explorations  of  the  Yukon. 
Zagoskin,  Surgeon  Adams  and  Lieutenant  Barnard,  of  H.  M. 
Enterprise  in  185 1,  the  servants  of  the  Hudson  Bay  ZiA  Rus- 
sian American  Companies,  one  or  two  missionaries,  Robert  Ken- 
nicott  and  the  explorers  of  the  Western  Union  Telegriph  Expe- 
dition, are  the  only  white  men  who  had  visited  the  Yukon 
previous  to  July,  1868,  as  far  as  is  known  to  me.* 

The  following  arrangement  will  show  the  length  of  the  Yukon, 
its  various  tributaries,  posts,  villages,  and  obstructions  to  naviga- 
tion, more  clearly  than  a  mere  description  could  do.  The  astro- 
nomical positions  are  mostly  approximate. 


liil! 


i 


Head-waters  Tdhco  River. 

Lake  Kennicott,  in  lat.  57°  45', 
Ion.  130°  45',  true  source  of  the 
Yukon,  and  head  of  the  West  Fork 
of  the  Tdhco. 

Lake  Ketchum,  in  lat.  58°  30', 
Ion.  131°  10',  head  of  the  East 
Fork.  These  two  lakes  are  sepa- 
rated only  by  a  narrow  portage  from 
nonhern  affluents  of  the  Stiki'ne 
River.  The  two  forks  are  on  either 
side  of  the  Bald  Mountains.  The 
West  Fork  is  about  126  (English) 
miles  long,  from  Lake  Kennicott 
to  its  junction  with  the  East  Fork, 
in  lat.  59°  20',  Ion.  132°  45'.  Both 
receive  various  small  streams  on 
their  way. 

From  the  junction  the  Tdhco 
flows  through  a  valley,  38  miles, 
into  Vdtchee  Lake  (iq  miles  long), 
thence,  32  miles,  through  another 
small  lake,  into  a  canon,  and  over 


Head-waters  Pelly  River. 

Frances  Lake,  in  lat.  61°  08', 
Ion.  128°,  on  which  was  once  situ- 
ated Frances  Fort,  H.  B.  Co. 

From  the  .V.  E.  end  of  Frances 
Lake  the  Frances  River  flows,  49 
miles,  into  Lake  Finlayson,  23 
miles  long. 

From  Lake  Finlayson,  27  miles, 
to  the  Pelly  River,  flowing  from  the 
Pelly  lakes.  At  this  junction  Fort 
Pelly  Banks  was  once  situated. 

From  Pelly  Pinks,  95  miles,  to 
a  sharp  curve  of  15  miles,  at  the 
end  of  whicli  are  rapids  with  a  bad 
portage.  On  its  way  the  Pelly  re- 
ceives four  small  streams  from  the 
north  and  one  from  the  south. 

From  the  rapids,  35  miles,  to  the 
mouth  of  Macmillan's  River  (215 
miles  long),  and  thence  to  the 
lower  rapids,  8  miles. 

From  Macmillan's  River,  which 


*  I  have  been  unable  to  obtain  any  account  of  Kirkby's  travels  in  the  Hudson  Bay 
territory.  He  is  indirectly  mentioned  by  Dr.  Petermann  as  having  visited  Fori 
Yukon. 


GEOGRAPHY  OF  ALASKA. 


279 


a  rapid  or  cascade.  Beyond,  12 
miles,  is  another  cascade,  and  the 
river  passes  into  Tdhco  Lake,  nar- 
row, but  45  miles  in  length.  From 
Tahco  Lake,  through  a  small  lake, 
to  Lebarge  Lake,  58  miles.  (Here 
the  Portage  River  [30  miles  long] 
flows  into  the  Tahco,  heading  in  a 
lake  from  which  the  Indians  make 
a  portage  to  the  Chilkaht  River, 
by  means  of  a  series  of  lakes  and 
small  rivers.)  Through  Lake  Le- 
barge, 20  miles  long,  to  the  mouth 
of  the  Pelly,  about  90  miles.  Total 
length  of  the  Tahco,  including 
lakes,  from  Lake  Kennicott  to  Fort 
Selkirk,  437  miles. 


drains  the  southern  base  of  the 
great  bend  of  the  Rocky  Moun- 
tains, 48  miles,  to  the  mouth  of  the 
Tdhco  or  Lewis  River,  where  Fort 
Selkirk  (burned  in  1851)  was  situ- 
ated. Total  length  of  the  Frances 
and  Pelly,  including  lakes,  from 
Frances  Lake  (long  erroneously 
mapped  as  feeding  the  Liard  River) 
to  Fort  Selkirk,  300  miles.  At 
Fort  Selkirk,  Pinus  contorta  grows 
six  to  ten  feet  high.  This  is  the 
most  northern  limit  of  true  pines 
on  the  Yukon, 


YUKON    RIVER. 


Left  Bank. 

From  Fort  Selkirk  to  the  mouth 
of  the  White  River  (124  miles  long, 
heading  in  a  large  lake,  and  desig- 
nated from  the  discoloration  of  the 
water  by  a  white  clay  or  mud),  94 
miles. 


Right  Bank. 

From  the  mouth  of  the  White 
River  to  the  mouth  of  the  Stewart 
River  (132  miles  long,  north  of  the 
Rocky  Mountain  range,  and  re- 
ceiving many  n duents  and  lakes, 
on  one  of  whicli  II.  B.  Co.'s  Reid 


House  was   once  es 
miles. 


24 


This  part  of  the  Yukon  cuts  through  the  great  bend  of  the 
Rocky  Mountain  chain,  and  flows  through  a  kind  of  canon.  Cap- 
tain Ketchum  reports  the  scenery  as  extremely  grand  ;  the  Yukon 
is  narrow,  deep,  and  very  swift,  but  with  no  other  obstruction  to 
navigation.  The  rocks  were  metamorphic  quartzites  and  black 
slates,  according  to  his  report  and  specimens  brought  down. 


the  Hudson  Bay 
i^ing   visited   Fori 


Left  Bank. 

Mouth  of  the  Deer  River  to  the 
month  of  an  unnamed  rii'er  (50 
miles  long),  38  miles.     Ten  miles 


Right  Bank. 

From  the  mouth  of  the  Stewart 
River  to  the  mouth  of  the  Forcier 
River   (35    miles  long),  38  miles. 


\ 


:[l 


ii 
I  ■   :  - 

I'lniiiii 

I'iiiiiii 


280 


GEOGRAPHY  OF  ALASKA. 


farther  another  small  stream  flows 
into  the  Yukon  from  the  west. 


Hence  to  the  Deer  River  (40  miles 
long),  37  miles. 

Mouth  of  the  nameless  river  to 
that  of  the  Sheep  River,  31  miles. 


In  this  vicinity  the  Yukon  emerges  from  the  mountains,  be- 
comes wider  and  full  of  islands.  The  banks  are  hilly,  with  abun- 
dance of  timber,  game,  moose  and  deer.  The  water  of  the  Yukon, 
above  the  mouth  of  the  White  River,  is  clear  and  dark.  This  clear 
water  and  the  white  water  from  the  tributary  flow  for  many  miles 
side  by  side  without  mixing,  but  afterward  the  rapid  current 
forces  them  together,  and  the  Yukon  water  is  discolored  to  the 
sea. 


Left  Bank. 

Mouth  of  Antoine  River  to 
mouth  of  the  Kdtlo  River  (30  riiles 
long,  many  bones  of  Pliocene  ani- 
mals reported  by  Rev.  Mr.  Mc- 
Donald), 25  miles.  At  the  mouth 
is  a  rounded  hill,  called  also  Mount 
Kdtlo,  toward  which,  if  arrows  are 
shot,  say  the  Indians,  they  never 
fall  to  the  ground. 

Some  distance  above  Fort  Yukon 
a  large  slough  cuts  off  the  angle  of 
the  bend,  and  enters  ine  Yukon 
some  distance  below  the  mouth  of 
the  Porcupine  River.  From  this 
slough  it  is  not  many  days'  journey 
to  the  head-waters  of  the  Tananah, 
according  to  the  Indians. 

From  Fort  Yukon,  in  hit.  67° 
12',  Ion.  142°  35',  to  the  Birch 
River,  40  miles.  (Recent  astro- 
nomical observations  by  Captain 
Raymond,  U.  S.  T.  E.,  place  it  in 
lat.  66°  34'  N.  and  Ion.  144°  21'  W., 
approximate.) 


Right  Bank. 


Mouth  of  the  Sheep  River  to  the 
mouth  of  the  Antoine  River  (25 
miles  long,  named  after  Antoine 
Houle),  45  miles. 

Month  of  the  Kdtlo  River  to 
Fort  Yukon,  60  miles.  Haifa  mile 
below,  the  Porcupine  River  enters 
the  Yukon  from  the  east.  (By  it 
the  boats  carry  the  goods  from  and 
the  furs  to  Lapierre's  house,  to 
which  it  is  navigable,  a  distance  of 
150  miles,  and  thence  across  the 
portage  to  P'ort  McPherson  [on 
Peel's  River  flowing  into  the  Mac- 
kenzie], 64  miles.  The  course  of 
the  Porcupine  River,  usually  called 
Rat  River  by  the  Hudson  Bay  men, 
is  through  low  country  well  sup- 
plied with  lakes  and  streams.) 

From  the  Birch  River  to  the 
Small  Houses,  80  miles.  From 
these  to  the  mouth  of  the  Dall 
River  (.''  45  miles  long  ;  named  by 
Captain  Ketchum  on  his  sketch 
map  ;  Indian  name  Ndtokakat),  40 
miles. 


GEOGRAPHY  OF  ALASKA. 


%H 


From  Fort  Yukon  to  the  mouth  of  the  Dall  River  and  the 
entrance  of  the  Ramparts  the  Yukon  is  very  wide,  tortuous,  full 
of  sloughs,  islands,  and  cut-offs,  which  change  somewhat  every 
year,  with  fresh  deposition  and  denudation  of  material.  The 
country  on  each  side  is  low  and  flat ;  many  small  rivers  may 
empty  into  the  Yukon,  concealed  by  the  numerous  islands.  Low 
hills  are  seen  in  the  distance,  drawing  together  as  we  approach 
the  Ramparts.  From  near  Fort  Yukon  five  snow-covered  sum- 
mits of  the  Romanzoff  range  are  visible. 

When  we  enter  the  Ramparts  the  change  is  very  great.  Hills 
from  500  to  2,000  feet  come  close  to  the  river,  which  is  narrow, 
deep,  and  rapid,  but  without  obstructions  to  navigation.  The 
so-called  Rapids  are  described  in  another  part  of  this  volume. 


J?ig/if  Bank. 


Mouth  of  the  Dall  River  to  the 
mouth  of  the  Tsee'toht  River  in  the 
Ramparts,  33  miles. 


Left  Bank. 

Mouth  of  the  Tsedtoht  River  to 
the  mouth  of  tlie  Whymper  River 
(named  by  Captain  Ketchum  in  his 
sketch  map  ;  Indian  name  Yukuts- 
charkut),  around  a  large  bend,  28 
miles. 

^f  outh  of  the  Whymper  River  to 
the  Rapids,  50  miles. 

Rapids  to  the  mouth  of  the  Ta- 
nanah  at  Nuklukahyet,  30  miles, 
leaving  the  Ramparts  a  few  miles 
above  Nuklukahytit. 

The  Tananah  River  enters  the  Yukon  in  lat.  64°  of  N.,  and  Ion. 
150°  08'  W.,  and  is  entirely  unexplored.  No  white  man  has  dipped 
his  paddle  into  its  waters,  and  we  only  know  of  its  length  and 
character  from  Indian  reports.  They  inform  us  that  it  flows 
from  the  eastward,  that  some  of  its  head-waters  are  not  far  from 
Fort  Yukon,  and  others  not  distant  from  the  upper  Ramparts  of 
the  Yukon  above  the  fort.  The  largest  trees  brought  down  in 
the  spring  freshets  come  from  this  river  ;  its  banks  are  said  to  be 
high  and  mountainous,  and  its  course  marked  by  rapids  and 
cascades.  The  length  is  estimated  at  two  hundred  and  fifty 
miles.  The  name  Tanandh  means  River  of  Mountains,  and  it 
has  long  been  distributed  in  various  parts  of  Russian  America 


r>' 


\'b 


'M-- 


'  'Mi 


282 


GEOGRAPHY  OF  ALASKA. 


I  I 


1 1; 


I  if 


^ill 

I  Ml  Hill 

I  !!:iill| 

■' 'i'llil 


'I 


if 


on  the  old  maps,  under  the  name  of  the  River  of  the  Moun- 
tain Men.  The  Hudson  Bay  men  called  it  the  Gens  des  Buttes 
River. 


Ze/if  Bank. 

From  the  mouth  of  the  Sitzi- 
kiinten  to  Nowikakat  Harbor,  65 
miles.  (The  Nowikakat  River  [  c  1 2 
miles  long]  rises  in  the  Kaiyuh 
Mountains,   near   the    sources    of 


Right  Bank. 

From  Nuklukahydt  to  the  mouth 
of  the  Tozikakat  River,  13  miles. 
From  thf^  Tozikakat  to  the  mouth 
of  the  Sitzikunten  River,  18  milco. 

From  Nowikdkat  Harbor  to  the 


the  Innoko  or  Shageluk,  and  the    mouth  of  the  Ukawutni  River,  \i 


Soonkakat  Rivers.  It  flows  north- 
east along  the  base  of  the  Nowika- 
kat Mountains,  and  into  a  small 
cove  or  harbor,  which  opens  by  a 
narrow  passage    into   the   Yukon, 


miles.  From  the  latter  to  the 
mouth  of  the  Meldzikakat  (Clear 
River),  35  miles. 

The    Meldzikakat  is   about  75 
miles  long,  and  enters  the  Yukon 


and   on  which   Nowikakat  village    from  the  north,  with  a  wide  bar  at 


is  situated.) 

From  the  mouth  of  the  Kdna- 
ton  to  the  mouth  of  the  Soonka- 
kat, 8  miles. 


The  Koyiikuk  River  enters 

stream,   formed   by  the  fusion 

rivers  from  the  w^est,  and   the 

length,  including  tributaries,  is 

Other   rivers,   rising    near   it, 

sounds. 

Left  Bank. 

From  Nulato  in  lat.  64°  42',  Ion. 
157°  54'  W.,  toWolasatux,  14  miles. 
From  Wolasatux  to  the  mouth  of 
the  Kafyuh  River,  32  mile.-. 

Ldf  ka's  to  the  head  of  the  great 
Shageluk  Slough,  30  miles. 


its  mouth. 

From  Meldzikakat  to  the  Kdna- 
ton  River,  33  miles. 

From  the  mouth  of  the   Soon- 
kakat  to   the   mouth  of  the    Le- 1 
barge  River  (a  name  which  I  pro- 
pose to  substitute  for  the  Indian  I 
name    Miskiintrkdkat),    8    miles. 
From   the   Lebarge   River  to  the  I 
mouth  of  the  Koyiikuk  River  at 
the  Sopka,  40  miles, 

from  the  north,  and  is  a  large 
of  the  Kuthlatno  and  Kutclno 
Kotelkakat  from  the  east.  Its 
estimated  at  one  hundred  miles, 
fall    into   Kotzebue   ana   Norton! 

Right  Bank. 

From  Koyiikuk  to  the  Nulato  I 
River  near  the  Nulato  trading-post, [ 
22  miles. 

Mouth  of  the  Kaiyuh  River  tol 


Ldfka's,  50  miles. 

Head  of  the  Shageluk  to  Anvil  I 


GEOGRAPHY  OF  ALASKA. 


283 


Anvfk  to  the  winter  Leather  Vil- 
lage, at  the  end  of  the  Shageluk, 
27  miles.  (The  Anvfk  River  is 
about  50  miles  long,  and  from  Keg- 
iktowruk  a  winter  portage  is  made 
in  two  days  to  the  Anvi'k  River.) 

Mouth  of  the  Challik  River  to 
the  Mission  at  Ekdgmut,  43  miles. 
(Near  the  Mission  is  a  small  river 
by  which  the  portage  to  the  Kusko- 
quim  is  made.  Head  of  the  South 
Slough  from  MilavanofF  River,  8 
miles.) 


22  miles.  (Head  of  the  Shageluk 
to  the  mouth  of  the  Shageluk  or  In- 
noko  River,  18  miles.  From  that 
point  to  the  end  of  the  slough,  at 
the  summer  Leather  Village,  40 
miles.)  End  of  the  Shageluk  to  the 
mouth  of  the  Challik  River,  26 
miles. 

From  the  Mission  to  the  most 
southern  part  of  the  second  Great 
Bend  in  the  Yukon,  36  miles  (lat. 
61°  35').  From  this  point  to  the 
mouth  of  the  Milavanoff  River,  26 
miles. 

From  the  mouth  of  the  Milava- 
nofF River  to  Andrdafsky  Fort,  13 
miles.  Andreafsky  to  the  head  of 
the  delta,  10  miles. 

The  length  of  the  South  Slough  is  about  64  miles,  that  of  the 
Kusilvak,  or  true  Yukon-mouth,  50  miles ;  the  Kwikhpak,  52 
miles,  and  that  of  the  Uphoon,  54  miles. 

The  distance  from  Fort  Selkirk  to  Fort  Yukon  is  thus  about 
392  miles.  Thence  to  Nulato,  549  miles,*  and  thence  to  the 
mouth  of  the  Kusilvak,  357  miles.  From  the  Kusilvak-mouth  to 
the  lower  rapids  on  the  Pelly  (1,352  miles),  or  to  the  Lower  Tahco 
rapids  (1,513  miles),  the  river  is  navigable  throughout  for  vessels 
drawing  not  more  than  four  feet,  and  for  a  great  part  of  its  length 
for  those  drawing  much  more.  The  first  shoals  are  at  Anvi'k,  the 
next  near  Nowikakat  and  near  Fort  Yukon  ;  at  some  seasons  more 
than  four  feet  may  be  difficult  to  obtain.  Elsewhere  the  depth 
may  be  estimated  at  from  two  to  ten  fathoms. 

*  The  manner  of  our  return  voyage  to  Nulato,  steadily  floating  down  stream  night 
and  d.iy,  formed  an  excellent  check  on  the  somewhat  exaggerated  estimates  of 
distance  made  in  going  up.  Our  rate  of  progress,  reunning,  could  hardly  have 
averaged  less  than  one  hundred  miles  a  day,  the  rate  0"  t^e  current  varying  from 
seven  to  three  knots  an  hour,  while  we  kept  carefully  '•  the  most  rapid  portion. 
Below  Nulato  the  current  is  less  rapid,  and  the  stance  seems  much  greater 
on  that  account.  Our  estimate  in  going  up  was  630  miles,  which  was  very  close 
to  Captain  Ketchun's  estimate  of  the  previous  year.  Corrections  reduced  it  to  550 
miles.  Captain  Raymond's  recent  surveys  confirm  the  near  appioximation  to  correct- 
ness of  our  mapping  from  dist.inces  and  bearings, 


i  \ 


,  'I  i:;lTOl 


I 


!i;^l|;piiiliiiij 


i 
II 

i 


■  If., 

if  ^5 


284 


GEOGRAPHY  OF  ALASKA. 


The  total  length  of  the  Yukon  from  the  Kiisilvak-mouth  to 
Lake  Kennicott  is  about  1,800  miles.  This  may  be  too  low  an 
estimate  if  we  take  in  all  the  curves  of  the  channel,  which  I  have 
not  done ;  so  we  may  safely  estimate  the  total  length  of  the  Yu- 
kon with  all  its  windings,  at  about  2,000  miles,  of  which  three 
fourths  are  navigable  for  river  steamers.  In  some  places  on  the 
Lower  Yukon  one  bank  is  invisible  from  the  other.  Above  the 
Ramparts,  including  islands,  the  river  is  sometimes  twenty  miles 
wide.  By  its  size  and  the  important  changes  which  it  is  always 
bringing  about  in  Bering  Sea,  it  is  fairly  entitled  to  rank  as  one 
of  the  largest  rivers  in  the  world.  It  is  larger  than  the  Ganges 
or  the  Orinoco,  about  the  size  of  the  Danube  or  the  La  Plata,  and 
belongs  to  that  great  family  of  northern  rivers,  of  which  the  Obi, 
Lena,  Saskatchewan,  and  Mackenzie  are  the  most  prominent 
members. 

At  Kutlik  several  small  rivers,  draining  the  adjacent  marshes, 
fall  into  the  Uphoon.  Not  far  beyond,  the  Pastolik  River,  fol- 
lowed by  the  Pastolidk,  falls  into  the  sea  southwest  of  Point  Roman- 
off. North  of  the  point  the  Pikmiktdlik  River  drains  a  large 
extent  of  tundra,  and  has  a  village  situated  near  the  mouth.  East 
of  the  Canal  the  Golsova  River,  a  small,  shallow  stream,  empties 
into  Norton  Sound,  and  farther  north  the  Unalaklik  River,  drain- 
ing the  Shaktolik  Hills,  the  Uliikuk  Mountains,  and  the  valley  of 
the  Yukon  Portap  -  There  is  a  large  bar  off  the  mouth,  and  in 
high  water  not  more  than  four  feet  can  be  obtained  as  far  as  Ulii- 
kuk. During  the  period  of  low  water  in  the  fall,  only  skin  boats 
can  ascend  it. 

Norton  Bay  receives  the  waters  of  a  number  of  small  rivers, 
which  head  among  the  hills  between  Nulato  and  the  coast.  Tlie 
principal  of  these  are  the  Inglutdlik,  on  which  large  numbers  of 
fossil  bones  are  reported,  and  the  KSyiik  River. 

Golofni'na  Bay  is  connected  with  a  large  lagoon  which  opens 
into  Grantley  Harbor  by  the  extremely  winding  channel  of  the 
Fish  River,  which  has  one  principal  tributary,  the  Kdvi-dva-zak 
River.  The  Kung-uk  River  (Buckland  River  of  English  charts) 
falls  into  Escholtz  Bay,  Kotzebue  Sound.  At  or  near  its  source, 
among  the  Nulato  hills,  is  situated  the  village  of  Attenmut,  near 
the  head  of  the  Seldwik  River,  which  falls  into  Selawik  Lake, 
emptying  into  Hotham  Inlet.     The  Kcwak  and  Inland  rivers, 


GEOGRAPHY  OF  ALASKA. 


285 


Ivak-mouth  to 
be  too  low  an 

which  I  have 
;th  of  the  Yu- 
f  which  three 

places  on  the 
r.  Above  the 
5  twenty  miles 
h  it  is  always 
to  rank  as  one 
an  the  Ganges 

La  Plata,  and 
which  the  Obi, 
ost  prominent 

acent  marshes, 
olik  River,  fol- 
f  Point  Roman- 
drains  a  large 
i  mouth.  East 
tream,  empties 
k  River,  drain- 
the  valley  of 
mouth,  and  in 
as  far  as  Ulu- 
jnly  skin  boats 

small  rivers, 
le  coast.  The 
re  numbers  of 

which  opens 
;hannel  of  the 
Kdvi-dva-zak 
nglish  charts) 
ear  its  source, 
Utenmut,  near 
Selawik  Lake, 
Inland  rivers. 


small  unexplored  streams,  fall  into  the  same  inlet.  They  are 
prolonged  far  into  the  interior,  to  fill  up  the  unexplored  space 
on  most  maps. 

A  small  river  is  said  to  enter  VVainwright  Inlet  on  the  northern 
coast,  but  the  only  one  of  any  size  falling  into  the  Arctic  Ocean 
is  the  Colvile  in  Ion.  150°  35'.  It  is  unexplored,  but  on  many  old 
maps  the  Yukon  was  represented  as  the  upper  portion  of  it,  and 
in  others,  more  recent,  it  is  gratuitously  represented  as  extending 
several  degrees  to  the  southward.  This  completes  the  list  of  the 
known  rivers  of  importance  in  Alaska.  On  the  opposite  coast 
the  principal  rivers  are  the  Anadyr,  falling  into  Anadyr  Gulf ;  the 
Kamchatka,  emptying  into  a  lagoon  at  Nfzni  Kamchatka;  and 
the  Avdtcha,  which  enters  the  head  of  Avdtcha  Bay, 

Ocean  Currents.  —  The  great  currents  which  exist  in  the  North 
Pacific  anxl  Bering  Sea  should  not  be  left  unmentioned.  To 
these  is  due  the  mild  climate  of  the  southern  portion  of  Alaska, 
and  in  fact  that  of  the  whole  northwest  coast  of  America,  as 
compared  with  the  northeast  coast. 

The  great  warm  current,  the  Gulf  Stream  of  the  Pacific,  is 
known  to  the  Japanese  as  the  Knro  Sizvo  or  Black  Stream,  from 
its  color  as  compared  with  the  other  water  of  the  Pacific.  It  is 
called  by  geographers  the  Japan  curnent.  It  splits  on  the  west- 
ern end  of  the  Aleutian  chain  ;  one  portion  of  it  sweeps  eastward, 
south  of  the  Aleutians,  and,  striking  the  shores  of  the  continent,  is 
deflected  southward.  It  brings  a  warm,  moist  atmosphere,  which 
is  condensed  on  the  snowy  peaks  of  the  coast  ranges,  and  causes 
the  remarkable  rainfall  which  characterizes  the  coast  as  far  south 
as  Oregon. 

The  other  and  smaller  portion  passes  between  the  Command- 
er's Islands  and  the  end  of  the  Aleutians,  and  northward  through 
Berng  Strait.  Hence  no  ice  floats  southward  through  the  strait 
from  the  Frozen  Ocean,  and  I  learn  that  the  whalers  in  the 
spring  have  seen  large  masses  of  ice  steadily  sailing  northward 
through  the  strait  a  knot  and  a  half  an  hour,  against  a  very  stiff 
breeze  from  the  north.  In  summer  a  small  cold  crrrent  passies 
southward  along  the  coast  of  Kamchatka,  but  in  May  it  would 
seem  as  if  this  was  wanting.  At  that  time  the  whalers  follow  the 
coast  northward,  as  the  .ce  melts  close  to  it,  before  that  to  the 
east  is  affected.     The  vessel  which,  in  this  way,  is  the  first  to 


i 


1; 

mil 

ijiii 

iliiKl 
hl»i 

ffif  1 

M-tl 

!'«?* 

'  i 

I'HK 

!l 


I 


286 


GEOGRAPHY  OF  ALASKA. 


pass   Iiast  Cape  is  sure  of  plenty  of  whales,  beside  the  spring 
trade. 

The  water  on  the  west  side  of  Bering  Sea  is  deeper  than  that 
to  the  cast.  It  would  seem  as  if  an  ocean  valley  existed  here, 
heading  in  Plover  Bay ;  as  in  the  latter  place  one  hundred  and 
one  fathoms  without  bottom  arc  reported  between  the  heads,  and 
fifty  farther  in.  In  the  vicinity  of  the  Shiimagin  Islands  there 
was  in  August,  1865,  a  strong  current  to  the  north  and  east,  with 
a  surface  temperature  of  56°  Fahr.  The  currents  through  Unimak 
Pass  are  largely  dependent  on  the  tide,  but  run  more  strongly 
and  for  a  larger  part  of  the  day  into  Bering  Sea,  than  the  reverse, 

Through  some  of  the  narrow  passages  in  the  Aleutian  chain 
severe  tide-rips  often  occur,  and  vessels  should  be  cautious  in 
entering  them. 

Mountain  Ranges,  Peaks,  and  Volcanoes.  —  The  high  mountains 
of  Alasl<a  all  lie  south  of  lat.  65°.  The  Coast  or  St.  Elias  Range 
contains  the  highest  peaks  and  most  of  the  volcanoes.  It  extends 
along  the  whole  northwest  coast  from  C.''lifornia  to  the  peninsula 
of  Aliaska.  The  general  trend  is  northwest.  About  Ion.  142"  VV. 
it  loses  in  a  measure  the  distinctive  characters  of  a  mountain 
chain,  and  merges  with  the  ranges  which  join  it  from  the  north 
and  east,  forming  the  Alaskan  Range.  That  portion  of  this  range 
immediately  northwest  of  Cook's  Inlet  has  been  termed  on  some 
maps  the  CJiigmit  Monntains,  from  what  cause  I  have  not  been 
able  to  discover.  Back  of  the  Coast  range  in  the  British  territory, 
to  the  east,  are  many  parallel  ranges  of  hills  and  mountains,  as 
yet  slightly  explored.  The  Rocky  Monntain  chain  extends  east 
of  the  basin  of  the  Yukon,  between  it  and  the  Mackenzie,  as  far 
north  as  lat.  64°.  Here  it  bends  westward,  and,  becoming  broken, 
it  passes  to  the  west  and  south,  combining  with  the  coast  ranges 
to  form  the  Alaskan  Range.  To  the  north  the  country,  though 
broken,  elevated,  and  containing  many  ranges  of  hills,  yet  bears 
nothing  (except  the  Romanzoff  Range)  worthy  of  the  name  of 
mountains  ;  that  is  to  say,  nothing  which  reaches  the  height  of 
five  thousand  feet.  The  mountains  which  border  on  the  Mac- 
kenzie, as  described  by  Richardson,  are  rather  the  edges  of  a  liigh 
and  broken  table-land  than  mountains;  at  all  events,  in  the  light 
of  new  discoveries,  they  must  be  regarded  as  a  small  and  insig- 
nificant spur,  instead  of  the  prolongation  of  the  main  range.    By 


GEOGRAPHY  OF  ALASKA. 


287 


ide  the  spring 


the  discovery  of  this  fact,  the  orographic  law,  that  the  coasts  and 
principal  ranges  of  continents  have  a  general  parallelism  in  their 
trend,  is  vindicated. 

The  old  maps  represent  the  Rocky  Mountain  range  as  reach- 
ing the  Arctic  Ocean  in  a  line  nearly  parallel  with  the  Mackenzie 
River.  The  trend  of  the  mountains  as  thus  laid  down  formed 
the  only  noteworthy  exception  to  the  general  law  above  men- 
tioned, acknowledged  by  all  orographers.  Many  reasons  induced 
a  doubt  of  the  correctness  of  these  maps,  and  led  to  an  investi- 
gation of  the  facts,  which  are  as  follows :  The  accounts  of  the 
Russians  who  had  been  in  the  region  of  the  Nushergak  and 
Cook's  Inlet  united  in  confirming  the  existence  of  a  great 
range,  continuous  with  that  which  forms  the  backbone  of  the 
peninsula  of  Aliiiska.  The  watershed,  or  distribution  of  the 
rivers  of  the  region  to  the  north  of  this  range,  added  confirma- 
tion. Two  years'  exploration  in  the  valley  of  the  Yukon  showed 
that  all  the  ranges  of  hills  and  low  mountains  had  the  same 
general  trend  with  the  great  range  to  the  south.  Ketchum's  ex- 
plorations showed  that  the  Yukon  cut  its  way,  nearly  at  right 
angles,  through  a  great  chain  of  mountains,  which  extended 
to  the  westward  and  eastward,  and  that,  proceeding  northward 
to  a  point  a  hundred  and  fifty  miles  southeast  of  Fort  Yukon, 
the  character  of  the  country  changed,  becoming  comparatively 
level  and  entirely  free  from  high  mountains.  The  furs  from 
Fort  Selkirk  were  taken  down  the  Yukon,  up  the  Porcupine, 
across  to  Peel's  River,  and  up  the  Mackenzie,  to  the  usual 
points,  rather  than  one  quarter  of  the  distance  across  the 
Rocky  Mountains  to  the  Mackenzie.  The  Hudson  Bay  men 
at  Fort  Yukon  agreed  in  representing  the  country  between 
that  point  and  the  Mackenzie  as  comparatively  even,  though 
broken  and  hilly  to  the  eastward.  The  character  of  the  Porcu- 
pine River,  surrounded  by  lakes  and  only  obstructed  by  sand- 
bars without  rapids,  forbids  the  idea  that  it  intersects  a  great 
range  of  mountains. 

The  preconceived  opinion  that  we  should  find  a  continua- 
tion of  the  western  fauna  of  America  on  Norton  Sound,  such 
as  exists  south  of  Aliaska,  was  disproved  by  extensive  collec- 
tions. Pirds  (such  as  the  Golden  Flicker,  the  Waxwing,  and 
Canada  Jay)   and  fishes   (e.   g.    Esox  cstor)   hitherto   unknown 


288 


GEOGRAPHY  OF  ALASKA. 


on  the  west  coast  of  America,  abounded  in  the  Yukon  Valley 
The  characteristic  western  species  were  absent.  South  of 
Alidska  and  these  mountains  the  reverse  was  the  case.  lixclud- 1 
ing  Asiatic  stragglers  and  water-birds,  the  fauna  of  the  Yukon 
Valley  was  almost  entirely  Eastern  Canadian.  The  truth  of  this 
is  evident  to  the  naturalist  who  may  examine  the  catalogue  of 
birds.  These  facts  undeniably  indicate  that  a  continuous  ran;;i; 
of  mountains  exists,*  which,  like  a  great  wall,  retards  the  norlhern 
and  western  progress  of  the  species  of  the  western  fauna,  while  the 
continuous  table-land,  to  the  north  of  the  western  curve  of  the 
ranges,  ofters  no  obstacles  to  the  free  westward  migration  of  truly 
eastern  species,  to  Bering  Sea. 

The  smaller  ranges  worthy  of  mention  are  the  Bald  Moun- 
tains, on  either  side  of  which  the  Yukon  takes  its  rise  ;  the 
Shaktolik  and  Uliikuk  hills,  near  Norton  Sound  ;  the  Niilau 
Hills,  between  the  Yukon  and  Norton  Bay;  the  Kaiyuh  and 
Nowikdkat  mountains  (1,500  feet),  east  of  the  Yukon  ;  the  Yukon 
Mountains,  a  low  range  northwest  of  the  Yukon  ;  and  the  Ronidn- 
zoff  Mountains,  north  of  Fort  Yukon,  the  only  mountains  in  the 
Yukon  Valley,  north  of  the  Alaskan  Range,  which  bore  snow  all 
summer  in  1867. 

A  low  range  of  hills  borders  the  Arctic  coast,  which  has  re- 
ceived many  names.  The  southern  portion  of  the  Kaviak 
peninsula  contains  a  range  of  hills.  The  Aleutian  Islands  are 
simply  the  submarine  continuation  of  the  Alaskan  Range. 

A  statement  has  been  circulated,  to  the  effect  that  the  volcanic 
line  of  the  coast  ranges,  the  Aleutian  and  Kurile  Islands,  and 
the  islands  of  Japan,  is  nearly  or  quite  coincident  with  a  Great 
Circle  line.  A  glance  at  a  map  on  which  the  Great  Circles  are  | 
laid  down  as  straight  lines,  is  sufficient  to  dissipate  this  error.  A 
Great  Circle  line  from  San  Francisco  to  Hakodadi  strikes  across  | 
the  Pacific,  and  barely  grazes  the  southernmost  islands  of  the 
Catherina  Archipelago. 

The  number  of  known  volcanic  peaks  in  Alaska,  according  to 
Grewingk,  is  about  sixty-one,  of  which  only  ten  show  any  symp- 1 


*  It  is  probable  that  the  active  volcanoes  of  Aliaska  and  their  allies  are  of  later 
elevation  than  the  more  inland  portions  of  the  Alaskan  Range.  The  latter,  while 
parallel  in  limis  of  elevation,  and  almost  inextricably  interlaced  with  the  former,  .ve  | 
probably  of  1  riassic  age. 


GEOGRAPHY   OF   ALASKA. 


289 


toms  of  activity.      The  principal  peaks,  volcanic  and  otherwise, 
with  their  estimated  heights,  are  as  follows :  — 


Mount  Calder,  Prince  of  Wales  Island, 

Mount  Edgecumbe,  Kruzoff  Island, 

Mount  Crillon  (on  the  continent), 

Mount  Fairweather,     «         •<  .         . 

Mount  St.  Klias,  "        "        .         . 

Mount  Wrangell,  near  the  Copper  River, 

Redoubt  Volcano,  Aliaska  Peninsula,    . 

Iliiimna  Volcano,       "  " 

Alai  Volcano,  "  " 

Chigfnagak  Volcano,  Aliiiska  Peninsula,    . 

■^'eniaminoff  Volcano,       "  " 

Tavloff  Volcano,  "  "  .         . 

MedvidnikofT  Volcano,      "  "... 

Walrus  Peak,  "  "  .         . 

Mount  Devastation  or  Isandtski,  Unimak  Island, 

Mount  ShishaUlin,  Unimak  Island, 

Thunder  Mountain  (Pagromnaya),  Unimak  Island, 

Akutan  Peak,  Akutan  Island, 

r  kushin  Volcano,  Unalashka  Island, 

Ro<'  >sldva  Volcano,  ..... 

Vst'vidoff  Peak,  Umnak  Island,     .... 

River  Volcano,         "         "  ... 

Kordvin  Volcano,  Atka  Island,     .... 

Si'tkin  Volcano,  Si'tkin  Island, 

Tanaga  Peak,  Tdnaga  Island,        .... 

Peak  of  the  Seven  Craters,  Semisopdchnoi  Island, 

Khustoff  Peak,  Amchftka  Island, 

Goreloi  Peak,  Gore'loi  or  Burned  Island,  . 

Kiisilvak  Mountain,  Yukon  Valley, 

Uliikuk  Mountains, 

Vesolia  Sopka,     ...  ... 

Koyiikuk  Sopka,  

Peaks  of  the  Romanzoff  Mountains,    . 

Mount  Hohonfla, 

Mount  Bendeleben,  Kaviak  Peninsula, 

Mount  Kennicott,  Plover  Bay,  East  Siberia,    . 

Volcano,  Wrangell's  Land,  .... 


9,000  feet. 

*2,Ss5  " 

13,500  " 

14,000  " 

?  16,000  " 

?   5,000  " 

11,270  " 

12,066  " 

? 

? 


? 
? 

? 

*5,525  feet. 

.     *8,955  " 

5.525  " 

•  3.332  " 
♦5,691  » 

1,000  " 

?  3,000  " 

.     ?  2,500  " 

4,852  " 

•  5.033  " 
?  3,500  " 

3,000  " 

•   1,873  " 

.      ?  8,000  " 

?  2,500  « 

1,500  " 

800  " 

1,000  " 

?  5,000  to  8,000  " 


1,000  " 

.  ?  1,000  " 

*2,343  " 

.     2,480  " 


*  All  altitudes  without  an  asterisk  are  only  approximate. 
19 


'ill'l'l'fl 


:j  I 


.") 

1 

m 

! 

i 

''1 

1 

hi 

.11 
1 1 

1  ; 

•iiiiiii'*'! 

,.i'iiii*r 


!90 


GEOGRAPHY  OF  ALASKA. 


An-a. —  From  calculations  made  by  l"^-.  Ilaiiemaiin  of  Gotha, 
and  reduced  to  };co};Taplucal  sc|uarc  miles  (in  the  ratio  of  i  to 
21.  i6),  the  following  estimate  of  the  superficial  area  of  Alaska  has 
been  computed. 

Islands  of  lierin^  .Sea, 
Alt'iilian  Isiaiuis. 
Kaiiiak  and  Sluiinaj.i;in  Islands,     . 
C'liiigach  and  other  islands, 
Alexander  Archipelago, 

Total  area  of  islands,    . 
Area  of  the  mainland, 
'I'olal  area  of  Alaska,    . 


n 
(1 


.     5,676.3816 

1,031.7616 

.    i4,i4_'.y.'oS 

3  I, .'05. 7  100 
548,901.6148 

580,107.3248 


Maps  of  Alitska.  —  Tt  is  hardly  necessary  to  state  that  the 
older  maps  of  the  territory  are  full  of  error.s,  es|)ecially  in  the 
interior.  There  is  probably  no  part  of  America,  of  equal  extent, 
of  which  less  information  is  obtainable.  A  habit  has  obtained 
among  ma[)-makers  of  filling  in  unexplored  territory  with  a  net- 
work of  lakes  and  rivers  which  are  solely  due  to  their  ardent 
imaginations.  This  is  especially  notable  in  Arrowsmith's  earlier 
maps  of  Northwest  America,  in  the  Russian  maps  which  accom- 
pany Tikhmt'iuef's  History  of  the  Kussian  American  Company, 
and  ill  a  more  recent   map  of  Alaska,  published  in  San   JMan- 


cisco. 


The  older  maps,  exce])t  in  most  of  the  coast-line,  are  so  uni- 
formly erroneous  that  they  neiul   not  be  mentioned. 

The  only  recent  maps  worthy  of  notice  are  the  map  jiubiished 
by  the  Coast  Survey  in  \'A<\(\  and  a  second  edition  of  the 
same  published  in  May,  1X67;  Arrowsmith's  map  accompany- 
ing Whymper's  "Travels  in  Alaska";  a  map  entitled  "  I\l:ip 
of  Russian  America,  or  Alaska  Territory,  compiled  from  Russian 
Charts  and  Surveys  of  the  Western  Union  TiU'graph  Company, 
San  Francisco,  1867,  publislu^d  by  Hritton  and  Ivi'y";  and  one 
from  information  principally  furnished  by  the  writer,  essentially 
agreeing  with  that  which  accomiianies  this  volume,  published  by 
Dr.  A.  IV'terni.inn  in  the  (uvi^nif^/iisi/uT  Mift/uHiiiiLirit  for  Octo- 
ber, 1869. 

The  first  was  a  compilation  from  the  best  obtainable  inforniM- 
tion,  with  corrections  of  many  old  errors,  aiul  was  still   further 


GEOGRArilY   OK   ALASKA. 


291 


c,  arc  so  iiiu- 


improvcd  in  the  second  edition  ;  but,  at  the  time  of  its  publica- 
tion, data  in  relation  to  tiic  interior  was  inaccessible,  and  conse- 
(liKMitly  that  part  of  the  map  is  unreliable. 

The  second  map,  by  Arrovvsmilh,  contains  several  inexcusable 
errors,  such  as  the  i)osition  of  liesborough  Island,  the  Mission, 
and  Andri'afsky  b'ort.  He  has  also  been  guilty  of  the  stupitlity 
of  restoring  on  the  general  map,  which  accomp.mies  his  \'ukon 
map,  the  old  error  in  regard  to  the  delta,  which  Captain  Smith 
ilispritved.  Correct  data,  in  regard  to  the  coast- line  and  the 
posiiions  of  the  forts  on  the  Lowi-r  Yukon,  has  long  been  obtain- 
able; the  carelessness  shown  in  the  construction  of  tlie  map  is  a 
warning  to  future  explorers  to  be  careful  into  whose  hands  they 
put  their  information.* 

The  nomenclature  of  the  map  is  also  much  confused,  Indiana 
I  and  Innuit  being  conlountled. 

'file  Sail  l""rancisco  map  is  here  noticed  oidy  because  it  pre- 
tends to  be  the  result  of  the  Western  Union  Telegraph  explora- 
lioiis,  The  only  points  in  which  it  ditlers  iVom  maps  publisln.-d 
long  before  the  Telegraph  enterprise  was  organized,  are  :  tlu:  ad- 
dition of  a  small  accessory  chart  of  Coal  l!arl)or,  I'nga  (from  a 
survey  by  Captain  C.  IM.  .Scammon,  Lieutenant  J.  Davison,  the 
writer,  and  other  members  of  the  expedilicju)  ;  the  gratuitous  in- 
troduction of  a  large  numbe,-  of  lakes,  generally  situated  where 
iiioiuitains  should  be  ;  the  remarkably  erroneous  eourse  laid  down 
lor  the  \'uk()n  ;  and  the  general  contradiction  in  all  important 
piiinis  of  the  Western    Union  Telegraph  surveys. 

Tlu"  ma|)  which  aecom|)anies  this  volume  was  derived  from  the 
tolliiwing  sources  :  — 

The  coast-line,  and  many  particulars  in  regard  to  the  southern 
piiiliuii  of  the  territory,  from  the  I'nilid  .Siativs  Coast  .Survi-y. 
The  l>ead-waters  of  the  \'ukon,  Stikine,  ami  l.iaid  rivers,  froni  a 


a 
a 


*  ll  will  Ipc  olisfivi'il  lliat  \Vhviii|i(r  says  (p.  201),  "Willi  111. my  wiiiiliiins  tlic 
^I'lui.il  iliu'clioii  111  l''i)rt  \'iik(in  (lioni  SaLC.il.iii'int.m)  is  noillii-.isl  iii.i(;m  In  ."  Now,  if 
this  itiiiisi'  \)v  j.tid  (liiwn  willi  iIr'  luics.s.iiy  iDiu-ilinu  Un'  \  ,11  i.ilinn,  uiiicli  r.ipitlly  in- 
'II  IMS  as  \\r  f;ii  I'aslwaid,  it  will  liiinn  l''iiil  N'liknii  lai  In  llu'  iinilli  anil  casl  ni  tin; 
I'Miitwlicii'  it  is  l.iiil  (liiwii  on  ll\f  addinpatn  iiit;  map.  'I'lu-  tdini  lions  Inr  vaiialioii 
li.i"c  iiiii  liitii  made  Dii  Aiiowsmilli's  map,  vvliii  li  aicimipaiiiis  Wlismpii'^i  IkidK  ;  in- 
'liiii,  llu-  rouise  ol  the  liver,  as  tlicie  (JKirteii,  is  aluiiil  cast,  15"  iioiili  /i/),\  Iidiii 
^lu  il.il.int.m,  instead  <if  nciitheast  iniii^tidi,  ;  wliile  tlu*  variatinn  is  In  the  eastward, 
•i"il  llie  Inie  comse  vai  ied  from  30"  lo  60''  not  til  o(  the  inagiiclic  cuurso.  Smli  woik 
ii  iiuirc  tli.m  rci)icht'iisil)lc. 


292 


GEOGRAPHY  OF  ALASKA. 


|pl;iiMl:l|ll,,j, 


■w  iil 


It 


•J.  53, 


photographic  copy  of  a  manuscript  map  (No.  4)  drawn  under  the 
direction  of  George  H.  Mumford,  Esq.,  Western  Union  Telegraph 
Company,  in  November,  1867,  from  surveys,  partly  astronomical, 
of  Messrs.  Pope,  Butler,  Scoville,  and  other  explorers  of  the 
Western  Union  Telegraph  Expedition.* 

The  course  of  the  Yukon  from  Fort  Yukon  to  Nulato,  from 
Ketch um's  sketch  maps  and  my  own  compass  bearings  and  dis- 
tances, carefully  corrected  for  variation,  and  by  means  of  all  the 
known  points.  That  Fort  Yukon  is  above  the  Arctic  Circle  is 
determined  by  the  statement  of  the  voyagcurs,  that  during  mid- 
summer the  sun  does  not  pass  below  the  horizon  for  several  days. 
This  has  been  confirmed  by  later  government  surveys. 

The  course  of  the  Yukon  below  Nulato  is  from  the  Russian 
Admiralty  charts,  corrected  from  my  own  observations. 

The  delta  of  the  Yukon,  coasts  of  Norton  Sound,  and  south  to 
Cape  Romanzoff,  from  the  reconnoissance  of  Captain  Smith  and 
Lieutenant  Dyer,  with  some  minor  corrections  from  my  subse- 
quent explorations.  The  longitude  of  the  shores  of  Norton 
Sound  is  not  definitely  settled,  and  will  need  revision.  The 
Anvi'k  portage,  from  notes  of  Captain  Smith. 

The  country  between  Norton  Bay,  the  Koyukuk  River,  the 
Yukon,  and  Kotzebue  Sound,  from  explorations  by  Messrs.  Rich- 
ard D.  Cotter  and  J.  T.  Dyer,  in  1866,  and  my  own  explorations 
in  1868.  The  topography  of  the  Kdviak  peninsula,  from  a  re- 
connoissance by  Mr.  W.  H.  Ennis  and  Baron  Otto  de  Bencle- 
leben. 

The  course  of  the  Kuskoquim,  Nushergak,  Suchitna,  and  Cop- 
per rivers,  from  Russian  explorations  and  charts.  It  is  to  bo 
regretted  that  astronomical  observations  were  not  m^jde  on  the 
Yukon.  This  arose  from  circumstances  beyond  the  control  of  the 
Scientific  Corps.  If  any  persons  who  contributed  to  the  explora- 
tions here  laid  down  are  not  mentioned,  it  is  because  further 
information   is  not  accessible.     The  map  as  a  whole  can  be  rc- 

*  Th.it  part  of  the  same  map  relating  to  the  Lower  Yukon  is  very  erroneous.  Un- 
fortunately I  am  unable  to  give  the  specific  details  of  these  cxjilorations,  .is  I  liavc 
only  had  access  to  the  unpublished  niajis,  upon  which  the  results  had  been  delineated 
The  principal  part  of  the  astronomical  observations  are  due  to  Mr.  E.  II.  Scovillo 
That  F'rances  Lake  connects  with  the  Pelly  instead  of  the  Liard,  as  on  the  old  maps 
was  determined  by  later  manuscript  maps,  furnished  by  officers  of  the  Hudson  liay 
Company  to  the  Telegraph  explorers. 


GEOGRAPHY  OF  ALASKA. 


293 


garded  as  approximate  only,  but  it  is  believed  that  it  approxi- 
mates far  more  nearly  to  accuracy  than  anything  yet  published, 
and  is  thus  far  preferable  to  a  state  of  total  ignorance.  All 
matter  which  was  merely  speculative  and  without  definite  au- 
thority has  been  excluded  as  far  as  possible.  The  nomenclature 
is  phonetically  correct,  and  corresponds  with  the  rules  adopted 
in  this  volume  for  the  spelling  ol  Indian  and  Russian  natne.s. 

The  field  now  open  to  Americans  for  exploration  and  discovery 
is  grand.  The  interior  everywhere  needs  exploration,  particularly 
the  ii^eat  plateau  north  of  the  Yukon,  the  valley  of  the  Kusko- 
quim,  and  that  of  the  Copper  River,  The  Arctic  Ocean,  north  of 
Bering  Strait,  has  so  far  been  unduly  neglected.  Wrangell's  Land 
offers  to  explorers  a  more  fruitful  field  than  the  well-crodden 
shores  north  of  Hudson  Bay.  It  is  to  be  hoped  that  the  lib- 
erality which  has  been  extended  toward  Arctic  discovery  in 
the  northeast  will  find  a  ready  parallel  in  the  requirements  of 
more  western  exploration,  and  that  American  enterprise,  there 
as  elsewhere,  may  successfully  cont-nue  to  emulate  that  of  Eu- 
ropeans. 

NoTK.  —  While  these  sheets  are  passing  through  the  press,  additional  information 
(from  the  original  reports  of  the  explorers  on  the  Siiivine,  which  were  not  previously 
acccssil.'lc^  shows  that  Fort  Mumford  and  Lakes  Kennicott  and  Ketchum  arc  more  to 
the  northwest  than  they  arc  jilaccd  on  the  accomjianying  map.  Ilcnce  the  upper 
forks  of  the  Tiihco  ar ,  somewhat  shorter  than  here  represented,  but  otherwise  they 
a'o  correctly  laid  down. 

Information  from  Mr.  Davidson  also  shows  that  the  Chilkaht  River  enters  Lynn 
Canal  on  the  west  instead  of  the  cast  .side  of  Observatory  Point,  and  that  the  river 
of  the  Indian  Portage  enters  the  Tahco  below  instead  of  above  Lake  Lebarge. 


! 


CHAPTER    II. 


I 


A  chronological  history  of  the  progress  of  exploration  and  trade  in  Alaska  and  the 
adjoining  territories,  from  1542  to  1868. 


iniiiliiiiji 


'4 


tf!l'lli!""t4 

^^Pl'l'lllilllllijj 


ill 


.  .■  ■.*■, 


liiiiili 


THE  history  of  Northwest  America  is,  almost  without  excep- 
tion, the  history  of  exploration  and  trade.  Controlled  for 
eighty  years  by  a  despotism  in  the  shape  of  a  trading  company, 
politics  have  until  recently  had  no  part  in  its  affairs.  The  au- 
thorities from  which  this  chronology  has  been  compiled  will  be 
found  in  the  Appendix. 

1542.  Voyages  of  Coronado  and  Juan  Rodriguez  de  Cabrillo, 
northward  from  Mexico. 

1579.  Sir  Francis  Drake,  in  a  schooner  of  about  two  hundred 
tons,  refitted  in  a  harbor  —  probably  that  of  San  Francisco 
—  in  the  month  of  July. 

1592.  Apostolos  Valerianos,  commonly  known  as  Juan  de  Fiica, 
sailed  from  Mexico,  and  is  supposed  to  have  entered  the 
Straits  of  Fuca  and  the  head  of  Puget  Sound. 

1602.  An  expedition  under  Sebastian  Vizcaino,  sailed  from  Aca- 
pulco  and  examined  the  coast  as  far  north  as  Cape  Mendo- 
cino. 

1646.  The  Russians,  who  had  pushed  their  explorations  oast- 
ward  in  Siberia  as  far  as  the  Kolyma  River,  actuated  by  the 
spirit  of  trade  rather  than  that  of  discovery,  in  this  year 
attempted  the  first  voyage  east  of  the  Kolyma.  Several 
small  vessels,  under  ihc  direction  of  Isai  Ignatief,  found  a 
shallow  channel  between  the  grounded  ice  and  the  .sliorc, 
and  reached  a  bay  where  they  obtained  walrus  ivory  by  bar- 
ter from  the  Chukchees,  after  which  they  returned  to  the 
Kolyma. 

1647.  This  success  in  trading  induced  others  to  follow  Igna- 
tiefs  example,  and  in  June  of  the  following  year  four  small  I 


|l:||; 


IliliWi 


I.:  I 


HISTORY. 


295 


1  Alaska  and  the 


1647.  half-decked  vessels  sailed  eastward  from  the  Kolyma.  An 
officer  was  needed  to  accompany  them  in  order  to  look  after 
the  interests  of  the  crown,  and  the  Cossack  Simeon  Desh- 
nefF  volunteered  for  this  duty.  One  object  of  the  voyage 
was  to  discover  the  Anadyr  River,  of  which  the  Russians 
had  received  vague  reports.  The  same  year  Michael  Stadii- 
kin  was  sent  by  land  to  explore  an  unknown  river  called  the 
Pogi'tcha,  and  endeavor  to  persuade  the  natives  to  acknowl- 
edge themselves  subjects  of  the  Russian  crown,  and  pay 
tribute.  This  undertaking  was  not  successful.  The  expedi- 
tion by  sea  was  obstructed  by  the  ice,  and  obliged  to  return. 

1648.  Not  disheartened  by  the  failure  of  the  previous  year, 
seven  vessels  left  the  Kolyma  on  the  20th  of  June.  Four  of 
them  were  disabled  on  an  island  off  the  mouth  of  the  Koly- 
ma. Three,  commanded  by  Simeon  DeshnefT,  Gerasim  An- 
kiidinoff,  and  Feodot  Alexieff,  respectively,  passed  on  without 
accident.  The  season  was  uncommonly  open,  and  the  shal- 
lops successfully  rounded  the  northeast  extremity  of  Asia  and 
entered  Bc'ng  Strait.  Ankiidinoft's  vessel  was  lost  on  East 
Cape,  but  his  men  were  taken  on  board  by  the  others.  On 
the  20th  of  September  they  had  a  difficulty  with  the  Chiik- 
chees,  in  which  Alexieff  was  wounded  ;  soon  after,  the  two 
boats  were  separated  by  the  wind  and  saw  each  other  no 
more.  Driven  by  storms  until  October,  Deshneff  was  finally 
wrecked,  some  distance  southwest  of  Anadyr  Bay,  on  the 
coast  of  Kamchatka.  After  wandering  about  for  ten  weeks, 
he  arrived  on  the  banks  of  the  Anadyr,  and  his  party  sup- 
ported themselves  during  the  winter  by  the  chase. 

1649.  On  the  return  of  summer  they  ascended  the  river,  and  in 
the  fall  built  the  post  of  Anadyrsk.  Stadukin  again  un- 
successfully attempted  to  find  the  Pogi'tcha  River. 

1650.  Information  was  received  from  the  natives  tliat  showed 
the  identity  of  the  Anadyr  and  Pogi'tcha,  and  during  the 
summer  an  expedition  under  Simeon  Motora,  and  another 
under  Stadukin,  arrived  at  Anadyrsk  by  land,  guided  by  na- 
tives. 

1651.  Boats  were  constructed  at  Anadyrsk,  and  Mot6ra  was 
killed  in  a  battle  witli  the  natives.  Stadukin  went  toward 
Penjinsk  Gulf,  and  was  heard  of  no  more. 


<i  I 


km 

ri 
I'll 


296 


HISTORY. 


ii!iihrM8il 
IliiiiiiNiii 


ite 


1652.  Deshneff  descended  the  Anadyr  in  his  boats,  and  discov- 
ered a  sand-bar,  called  the  Korga,  at  the  mouth. 

1653.  This  year  he  built  a  vessel,  in  which  he  proposed  to  send 
his  tribute  from  Anadyrsk  to  Yakutsk  by  sea. 

1654.  On  making  another  trip  to  the  Korga.  he  found  a  Cos- 
sack named  Seli'verstoff,  who  had  arrived  from  Yakutsk, 
by  land,  to  collect  tribute.  It  was  afterwards  ascertained  by 
Deshneff,  that  his  companions  in  the  voyage  of  1648  had 
landed  on  the  coast  of  Kamchatka  and  died  of  scurvy,  or 
been  killed  by  the  natives.  About  this  time,  according  to  a 
tradition  (first  recorded  in  17 10),  a  merchant  named  Taras 
Stadukin  sailed  from  the  Kolyma,  and  made  a  portage  across 
the  neck  of  East  Cape  with  his  vessel,  being  unable  to  double 
it  on  account  of  ice  ;  he  then  sailed,  following  the  coast  of 
Kamchatka,  doubling  the  peninsula,  making  the  first  discov- 
ery of  the  Kurile  Islands,  and  finally  arrived  in  safety  at  Pen- 
jinsk  Gulf. 

1696.  The  country  of  Kamchatka  had  long  been  known  by 
report  to  the  Russians,  who  had  visited  Anadyrsk ;  but  in 
1696,  Lukas  Simeonofif  Moroscovich,  with  a  party  of  fifteen 
men,  penetrated  as  far  as  a  day's  journey  from  the  Kam- 
chatka River,  bringirg  back  with  him  certain  Japanese  pa- 
pers, which  he  found  in  the  village  on  the  Kamchatka  River. 

1697.  Vladimir  Atlassoff  followed  his  example,  and  built  a  winter 
house  (cc/nozvi)  on  the  Upper  Kamchatka  River.  The  Kam- 
shadales  for  several  years  revolted  against  the  tyranny  of  the 
Cossacks,  who  easily  subdued  them  by  their  superior  arms. 
The  Cossacks  lost  no  opportunity  of  inciting  to  hostilities, 
and  then  butchering,  the  unfortunate  natives,  so  that  in  forty 
years  the  Kamshadales  were  redrced  to  a  twelfth  of  their 
original  numbers.  They  were  loaded  with  taxes,  and  the  j'ds- 
sak,  or  imperial  tribute,  was  often  raised  tenfold  by  the  avarice 
of  the  conquerors,  who  retained  the  surplus  for  themselves. 

1701.  The  Yukagirs,  a  nomadic  tribe,  demanded  assistance  from 
the  Russians  against  the  hostilities  of  the  Chukchees.  An 
expedition  was  fitted  out  and  hostilities  commenced,  but  the 
Russians  were  unable  to  force  this  brave  people  to  pay  trib- 
ute, deliver  hostages,  or  acknowledge  allegiance  to  the  Rus- 
sian crown. 


Hiii 


d  discov- 
d  to  send 

id  a  Cos- 
Yakutsk, 
•tained  by 
1648  had 
scurvy,  or 
rding  to  a 
ned  Taras 
age  across 
!  to  double 
e  coast  of 
irst  discov- 
ety  at  Pen- 
known  by 
■sk;  but  in 
y  of  fifteen 
I  the  Kam- 
lanese  pa- 
itka  River. 
L  a  winter 
The  Kani- 
uiny  of  the 
rior  arms, 
hostihties, 
lat  in  forty 
th  of  their 
nd  the  jds- 
the  avarice 
em  selves, 
itance  from 
bees.     An 
cd,  but  the 
o  pay  trib- 
the  Riis- 


H I  STORY. 


297 


171 1.  In  January  a  Cossack  named  Peter  Iliiinsen  Popoff  was 
sent  to  East  Cape  to  endeavor  to  induce  the  Chukchees  to 
pay  tribute.  He  failed  in  his  object,  but  brought  back  an 
account  of  islands  (the  Diomedes)  which  lay  beyond  East 
Cape,  and  of  a  continent  (America)  which  the  Chukchees  re- 
ported beyond  these  islands.  In  the  same  year  the  Russians 
first  invaded  the  Kurile  Islands,  and  visited  about  the  same 
time  the  uninhabited  Shantar  Islands  in  the  Ochotsk  Sea. 

1713.  The  first  sea-going  vessel  was  built  at  Ochotsk,  and  the 
following  year  she  made  a  voyage  to  the  west  coast  of 
Kamchatka. 

1720.  Other  vessels  were  built,  and  voyages  were  made,  includ- 
ing one  under  Jevrinotf  and  Lushin,  to  the  Shantar  Islands 
in   1720-21. 

1725.  Scientific  men,  desirous  of  further  information  in  regard 
to  the  extension  of  Asia  and  America,  turned  the  attention 
of  Peter  the  Great  to  the  matter.  He  took  great  interest 
in  it,  drew  up  the  instructions  for  an  expedition  with  his 
own  hand,  and  delivered  them  to  Admiral  Apraxin,  with 
orders  to  see  them  executed.  A  few  days  afterward,  in 
January,  1725,  he  died;  but  the  Empress,  desiring  to  carry 
out  all  the  plans  of  her  deceased  husband  as  closely  as  pos- 
sible, ordered  their  execution.  Captain  Vitus  Bering  was 
nominated  commander  of  the  expedition,  and  Lieutenants 
Martin  Spanberg  and  Alexie  ChirikofT  for  his  assistants. 
They  were  confirmed  by  the  Empress  and  Senate,  and  left 
St.  Petersburg  on  the  5th  of  February,  but  the  men  and 
equipment  did  not  reach  Ochotsk  until  the  30th  of  July, 
1727. 

1728.  Two  vessels,  the  Fortuna  and  the  Gabriel,  were  built, 
and  on  the  20th  of  July,  1728,  Bering  sailed  from  the  mouth 
of  the  Kamchatka  River.  He  coasted  along  the  shores  of 
the  peninsula,  and  on  the  loth  of  August  passed  an  island 
which  they  named  St.  Lawrence.  Sailing  through  Bering 
Strait  on  the  15th  of  August,  he  arrived  at  Cape  Serdze 
Kamen,  where  the  coast  trends  to  the  westward.  Here  he 
considered  that  he  had  fulfilled  his  instructions  and  proved 
the  separation  of  Asia  and  America.  Being  naturally  timid, 
hesitating,  and  indolent,  he  determined  to  go  no  farther  for 


t^l 


I 


298 


HISTORY. 


•|!l!iM.«|||»l 


'T 


1728.  fear  of  being  frozen  in,  and  returned  through  the  Strait  — 
strange  to  say — without  seeing  the  Dioniedcs  or  the  Ameri- 
can coast,  reaching  the  Kamchatka  River  on  the  20th  of 
September. 

1729.  He  wintered  at  Nizni  Kamchatka,  and  set  sail  eastward 
from  the  mouth  of  the  river,  June  5,  1729.  His  object  was 
to  discover  the  coast  of  America  east  of  Kamchatka.  Moot- 
ing with  contrary  winds,  he  turned  back  after  sailing  some 
sixty  miles,  and  reached  Ochotsk  on  the  23d  of  July,  without 
having  definitely  fulfilled  a  single  article  of  his  instructions. 

1730.  He  arrived  at  St.  Petersburg,  via  Ochotsk  and  Yakutsk, 
March  i,  1730. 

Meanwhile  the  chief  of  the  Yakutsk  Cossacks,  Athanasius 
Shestakoff,  had  volunteered  to  subdue  the  Chukchees  and 
Koriiiks,  His  offer  was  accepted,  and  Captain  Demetrius 
Pavlutski,  with  a  squad  of  four  hundred  Cossacks,  was  or- 
dered to  join  him.  A  quarrel  took  place  between  them,  and 
each  departed  on  the  enterprise  separately.  In  1729  Shesta- 
koff took  possession  of  the  vessels  which  had  been  used  by 
Bering,  and  sailed,  in  September,  in  the  Fortuna,  but  was 
driven  ashore  by  the  winds.  He  continued  on  his  way  with 
only  one  hundred  and  fifty  men,  and  on  the  nth  of  March, 
1730,  he  sent  orders  to  a  Cossack,  Tryphon  Kriipishcff,  at 
Taviskoi  Fort,  to  equip  a  vessel,  double  the  peninsula  of 
Kamchatka,  and  sail  for  the  Chukchee  country,  taking  with 
him  the  navigator  and  civil  engineer  of  the  expedition, 
Michael  Gwosdeff.  After  sending  these  orders  he  had  a 
battle  with  the  Chukchees  near  Penjinsk  Gulf,  March  14, 
1730,  in  which  his  forces  were  routed  and  he  was  killed. 

A  boat  was  constructed  out  of  the  wreck  of  the  Fortuna, 
and  in  September,  1730,  Gwosdeff  reached  Anadyrsk.  Here 
orders  were  received  from  Pavlutski  to  go  to  the  mouth  ot 
the  Kamchatka  River  and  obtain  provisions,  which  they 
were  to  take  to  the  Chukchee  coast,  where  he  expected  to 
meet  them. 

173 1.  In  the  spring  Pavlutski  fought  his  way  through  the 
Chukchee  country  to  Cape  Serdze  Kamen,  and  thence  re- 
turned to  the  Anadyr,  without,  however,  inducing  the  in- 
domitable Chukchees  to  pay  tribute.     Meanwhile,  Gwdsdefi 


U'.  'II' 


!:•   "iffl 


HISTORY. 


299 


1731-  liad  sailed  to  the  Chiikchee  coast,  but  saw  nothing  of  the 
Cossacks.  They  remained  at  Cape  Serdze  until  a  gale  drove 
them  eastward,  where  they  found  an  island,  and  beyond  it 
the  shores  of  the  continent  of  America.  They  met  a  native 
in  a  kyak,  and  sailed  two  days  along  the  coast  without  being 
able  to  land.  A  storm  came  up,  and  they  returned  to 
Kamchatka.  This  completed  the  exploration  of  Bering 
Strait,  which  had  been  commenced  by  Deshneff  and  his 
companions. 

1732.  The  information  brought  back  by  Bering  excited  great 
interest,  and  he  was  promoted  to  be  a  commander  and  his 
lieutenants  to  be  captains.  A  second  expedition  was  or- 
ganized, and  several  scientific  men  volunteered  to  accom- 
pany him. 

1733.  In  the  spring  the  marine  officers  left  St.  Petersburg. 
The  objects  in  view  were  the  verification  of  former  discov- 
eries, the  extension  of  navigation  between  Archangel  and 
Kamchatka,  and  the  exploration  of  the  American  coast  east- 
ward of  the  latter  peninsula. 

1738.  It  was  late  before  anything  was  ready  at  Ochotsk  for 
a  voyage,  and  in  June  of  this  year  Spanberg  sailed  with 
three  small  vessels  to  examine  the  Kurile  Islands,  and  win- 
tered in  Kamchatka. 

1739.  The  following  year  he  sailed  on  an  expedition  to  Japan, 
all  of  which  much  delayed  the  American  expedition.  Two 
vessels,  the  St.  Peter  and  the  St.  Paul,  were  built  at 
Ochotsk,  and  on  the  4th  of  September,  1740,  they  sailed 
for  Avatcha  Bay. 

1740.  The  previous  autumn,  Ivan  Jdagin,  Bering's  pilot,  had 
been  sent  to  Avatcha,  and  there  built  barracks  and  store- 
houses on  Niaki'na  Cove,  calling  the  little  settlement  after  the 
vessels,  Petropavlovsk.  Wilhelm  Steller  *  and  Louis  de  Lisle 
dc  la  Croycre  joined  the  party  at  Ochdtsk  in  1740,  the  for- 
mer as  surgeon  and  naturalist. 

1741.  They  passed  overland  to  Avatcha,  where  they  arrived  in 
the  spring  of  1741.     Spanberg  had  returned  to  St.  Peters- 

*  Georg  Wilhelm  Steller,  born  at  Winsheim  in  Franconia  in  1709,  arrived  at  S' 
Petersburg  in  1734,  was  sent  to  examine  the  natural  history  of  Kamchatka  in  1738, 
accompanied  Bering  in  1741,  and  died  of  a  fever,  or  was  frozen  to  death,  according 
to  some  accounts,  in  the  town  of  Tiumen  in  Siberia,  in  November,  1746. 


300 


HISTORY. 


•••lH!|i||, 

|i    ::r'iiniin| 


1 74 1,  burg.  Bering,  with  Steller,  in  the  St.  Peter,  and  Chfrikoff 
in  the  St.  Paul,  with  Croy^re,  sailed  from  Avatcha  on  the 
4th  of  June,  1 741,  in  search  of  the  American  coast.  On  the 
20th  of  June  the  vessels  were  separated  by  a  storm,  and  did 
not  meet  each  other  again.  On  the  15th  of  July,  Chfrikoff 
anchored  off  the  American  coast,  near  Cross  Sound.  The 
mate,  Abraham  Demc^-ntieff,  and  ten  well-armed  men  were 
sent  ashore  in  the  long-boat.  As  they  did  not  return,  on  the 
2ist  of  July,  Sidor  Saveleff  was  sent,  with  several  men,  in  the 
small  boat,  to  their  assistance.  He  also  did  not  return,  but 
on  the  next  day  two  canoes  came  out  filled  with  savages, 
who  fled  with  loud  cries  to  the  shore  as  soon  as  they  saw  the 
Russians  on  the  vessel's  deck.  Chfrikoff  had  no  boats,  and, 
a  west  wind  arising,  he  was  obliged  to  put  to  sea  again,  and 
on  the  27th  of  July  sailed  for  Kamchatka.  He  saw  the 
coast  of  various  islands  on  the  20th  of  September.  On  the 
8th  of  October  they  saw  land,  and  on  the  glh  they  entered 
the  Bay  of  Avatcha.  Of  seventy  men,  Chfrikoff  had  lost 
twenty-one,  among  whom  was  the  naturalist,  Louis  de  la 
Croyere,  who  died  of  scurvy  on  the  loth  of  October. 

On  the  1 8th  of  July,  Bering  saw  land.  On  the  20th  he 
anchored  under  an  island.  Between  two  capes,  which  he 
called  St.  Elias  and  St.  Hermogenes,  was  a  bay  where  two 
boats  were  sent  for  wa^^er  and  to  reconnoitre.  Steller  was 
in  one  of  these,  and  during  his  examinations  he  came  upon 
numerous  traces  of  the  natives.  With  characteristic  imbe- 
cility, Bering  resolved  to  put  to  sea  again  on  the  next  day, 
the  2 1st  of  July. 

Sailing  to  the  northward,  the  commander  was  confused 
among  the  various  islands,  and  sailed  hither  and  thither,  occa- 
sionally landing,  but  making  no  explorations,  and  showing 
his  total  incapacity  for  the  position  he  occupied.  He  took 
to  his  bed,  and  Lieutenant  Waxel  assumed  the  charge  of  the 
vessel.  On  the  29th  of  August  he  discovered  the  Shumagin 
Islands,  which  were  named  after  the  first  of  the  ship's  com- 
pany who  died  and  was  buried  there.  Driven  by  storms, 
perplexed  by  ignorance  and  anxiety,  reduced  by  scurvy  and 
bad  water,  they  welcomed  the  sight  of  land  on  the  31st  of 
October,  and  on  the  6th  of  November,  Waxel  and  Steller 


ChMkoff 
ha  on  the 
t.  On  the 
n,  and  did 
'.  Chfrikoff 
lund.  The 
men  were 
urn,  on  the 
men,  in  the 
return,  but 
th  savages, 
ley  saw  the 
boats,  and, 
I  again,  and 
-le  saw  the 
er.  On  the 
hey  entered 
)ff  had  lost 
Louis  de  la 
ber. 

the  20th  he 
s,  which  he 
!  where  two 
Steller  was 
;  came  upon 
eristic  imbe- 
le  next  day, 

ras  confused 
-lither,  occa- 
nd  showing 
He  took 
harge  of  the 
Shumagin 
ship's  com- 
n  by  storms, 
yj  scurvy  and 
the  3 1  St  of 
and  Steller 


le 


HISTORY. 


301 


1741.  went  ashore  on  Bering  Island.  They  decided  to  take  up 
their  winter  quarters  there,  and  the  crew,  sick  and  well,  were 
landed,  and  the  vessel  left  at  anchor.  On  the  29th  of  No- 
vember she  was  driven  on  shore  by  a  storm.  Bering,  from 
age  and  disease,  had  become  totally  incompetent,  looking 
upon  every  one  as  his  enemy.  Shelter  was  provided  in  the 
gullies  of  the  watercourses  near  the  shore,  and  on  the  8th 
of  December  Bering  died.*  The  survivors  sustained  life  on 
the  flesh  of  the  marine  animals  which  were  found  on  the 
island. 

1742.  The  following  spring  a  boat  was  constructed  from  the 
remains  of  the  vessel.  On  the  loth  of  August  they  set  sail, 
on  the  25th  they  saw  land,  and  entered  the  Bay  of  Avatcha 
on  the  26th,  casting  anchor  in  the  harbor  t..e  next  day.  The 
same  spring,  Chfrikofif  had  cruised  in  search  of  Bering  with- 
out success.  He  then  returned  to  Ochotsk,  and  by  way  of 
Yakutsk  to  St.  Petersburg,  where  he  was  made  a  captain 
commander,  but  died  soon  after. 

1743.  Bering's  party  returned  to  Ochotsk,  and  Waxcl  reached 
St.  Petersburg  in  1749. 

The  furs  and  skins  which  had  been  brought  back  '  y  the 
sailors  of  Bering's  company  caused  various  expeditions  to  be 
fitted  out  in  Kamchatka  by  the  Russians  resident  there,  in 
the  hope  of  obtaining  more  by  barter  with  the  natives  or  by 
hunting.  These  traders  were  called,  in  Russian,  Promish- 
Icniks.  Their  vessels  were  small,  many  of  them  constructed 
of  planks  lashed  to  the  timbers,  and  calked  with  moss.  They 
were  therefore  called  sJiitiki  or  sewn  vessels.  The  traders 
were  men  of  no  education,  who  sailed  usually  by  dead  reck- 
oning, and  who  were  governed  only  by  their  base  passions 
and  the  love  of  gain.  Nevertheless,  their  voyages  added 
much  to  the  general  knowledge  of  the  islands  between  Kam- 
chatkn  and  America. 
1745.  Emilian  Bassofif  discovered  the  island  of  Atti'i,  and 
another  small  one  near  it.  On  the  17th  of  September  in 
the  same  year,  Michael   Nevodtsikofif,  a  native  of  Tobolsk, 

*  Veil  (Vitus)  Bering  was  born  at  Horscns  in  Jutland.  Sailed  to  the  East  and 
West  Indies,  and  afterward  joined  the  Russian  service.  Me  was  made  a  lieutenant  in 
1707,  a  captain-lieutenant  in  1710,  afterward  promoted  to  be  captain  and  commander. 


302 


HISTORY. 


ti.  iiliili 


J;i':l«8«lilli 


'til  ,1 


MBllWl 


U,ji.|iny!i!-,j 


If 


mm 


1745.  sailed  from  the  mouth  of  the  Kamchatka  River  in  the 
shitik  Eudoxia  and  discovered  three  islands. 

1747.  He  returned  to  Kamchatka  July  21,  1747. 

1748.  Rybfnski  explored  the  Nearer  Islands. 

1749.  Niki'for  Traptisnikoff  sailed  in  August  from  the  Kam- 
chatka River  and  discovered  a  new  island. 

1750.  A  Cossack  named  Yiigoff  obtained  the  monopoly  of  hunt- 
ing on  the  Commander's  Islands  from  the  government,  on 
payment  of  the  tribute  and  tithes.  The  effect  of  this  was 
to  urge  other  traders  to  the  eastward. 

1753.  Trapesnikoff  returned  August  16,  and  sailed  again  in 
August,   1754,  having  discovered  another  unknown  island. 

1757.  Trap^snikoff  returned  from  his  second  voyage,  and  Ivan 
Nikfforoff  sailed  as  far  eastvvard  as  LJmnak. 

1758.  In  September,  Simon  Krasflnikoff  and  the  indefatigable 
Trap^snikoff  sailed  in  two  vessels  from  Kamchatka. 

1759.  They  reached  Goreloi  Island  in  September  the  following 
year,  and  wintered,  in  different  parties,  on  the  islands  of 
Amlia,  Sftkin,  and  Atka. 

1760.  In  September,  a  vessel  called  the  Andrean  and  Nathalia, 
fitted  out  by  Andrean  Tolstoi  and  commanded  by  Maxim 
Lazcroff,  sailed  from  Kamchatka,  and  wintered  at  Bering 
Island.  Piishkareff  sailed  in  the  sloop  Gabriel,  from  Bolshoya 
River,  Kamchatka,  July  31,  1760.  He  afterward  joined 
fore  .-s  with  Krasi'lnikoff,  who  had  lost  a  number  of  men  in 
hostilities  with  the  natives,  in  June,  1760. 

1761.  During  the  winter  they  all  hunted  on  Scguam  Island,  and 
in  the  spring  of  1761  Krasi'lnikoff  returned  to  Kamchatka, 
while  Piishkareff  pushed  on  to  0 mnak,  where  he  met  Trapes- 
nikoff's  vessel.  These  voyagers  had  committed  many  atroci- 
ties, and  the  long-enduring  natives  were  already  beginning 
to  retaliate.  In  1761,  Lazeroff  explored  the  islands  which 
have  since  borne  the  name  of  Andreanoffsky,  from  the  owner 
of  the  vessel. 

Having  passed  tlmnak,  Piishkareff  wintered  in  False 
Pass,  Aliaska  Peninsula.  He  was  the  first  to  winter  on  the 
continent. 

1762.  In  January,  Piishkareff  lost  several  men,  and  others  soon 
after  fell  under  the  weapons  of  the  outraged  natives.     These 


IMil 


HISTORY. 


303 


the  Kam- 

y  of  hunt- 
•nment,  on 
)f  this  was 

I  again  in 
vn  island. 
,  and  Ivan 

defatigable 
tka. 

e  following 
islands  of 

d  Nathalia, 
by  Maxim 

at  Bering 
n  Bolshoya 
ard  joined 

of  men  in 

Island,  and 
amchatka, 
let  Trapes- 
any  atroci- 
beginning 
mds  which 
the  owner 

in   False 
Iter  on  the 

)thers  soon 
es.     These 


1762.  hostilities  were  excited  by  the  outrages  committed.  In  June 
they  sailed  for  IJmnak,  where  they  took  two  islanders  as 
guides.  Driven  westward  by  tempests,  they  reached  the 
coast  of  Kamchatka  out  of  provisions.  They  had  torn 
from  their  homes  some  twenty-three  natives,  mostly  women. 
Some  of  these  were  sent  ashore  to  dig  roots  for  the  party. 
One  of  them,  on  returning  to  the  vessel,  was  killed,  for  some 
fancied  offence,  by  a  sailor  named  Gorelin.  Overcome  by 
anguish  and  despair,  many  of  the  other  women  threw  them- 
selves into  the  sea,  preferring  death  to  a  life  of  such  misery. 
By  order  of  Pushkareff  all  the  remaining  natives,  except  the 
interpreter  and  a  boy,  were  then  thrown  overboard.  The 
perpetrators  of  these  atrocities  finally  reached  a  small  bay  near 
Avatcha,  September  25,  1762.  In  this  year  a  vessel  named 
the  Trinity,  commanded  by  Korovin  ;  another,  the  Zacharias 
and  Elisabeth,  under  Drusenin  ;  one  in  charge  of  Medvedeff, 
with  fifty  men,  and  a  fourth  under  Stephen  Glottoff,  with 
forty-six  men,  sailed  from  Kamchatka  on  trading  voyages  to 
the  islands.  Medvedeff  reached  Umnak,  where  he  and  his 
crew  were  killed  by  the  exasperated  natives. 

1763.  Drusenin  and  all  his  men,  except  four  (who  reached  Kor6- 
vin  in  1764),  met  the  same  well-deserved  fate  on  Unaldshka. 
Korovin  reached  Unalashka  August  15,  1763.  Here  his 
men  were  divided  into  hunting-parties,  many  of  which  were 
cut  off  by  the  natives. 

Glottoff  had  wintered  at  Copper  Island  and  sailed  July 
26,  1763.  He  passed  dmnak  and  discovered  the  island  of 
Kadiak.*  Here  he  wintered,  but  was  obliged  to  use  great 
caution,  as  the  natives,  less  pliant  than  those  to  the  westward, 
evinced  many  symptoms  of  hostility. 

1764.  In  March  the  four  survivors  of  Driisenin's  company,  after 
great  suffering,  reached  Korovin.  The  party  of  the  latter 
was  reduced  to  twelve  men,  six  of  whom  were  Kamshadales. 
He  lost  his  vessel,  and  proceeded  in  a  bidarra  to  Umnak. 

Glottoff  left  Kadiak  in  May,  1764,  and  arrived  at  Umnak 
July  3d.  Here  he  found  the  bodies  of  a  party  under  Pro- 
tosoff,  who  had  all  been  killed  by  the  natives,  whom  Glot- 

*  Originally  called  Kaniag  by  the  natives,  who  called  themselves  Kaniagist  or  Ka- 
nidgmut.     Kadi.-ik  is  a  corruption  of  Kaniag. 


nil 

111 
iti 


304 


HISTORY. 


ii    ' 

ill 


i 


ii 


i' " 


1764.  toff  attacked  and  defeated.  lie  was  soon  joined  by  Koro- 
vin'.s  boat,  and  they  wintered  in  L'mnak,  exploring  it  pretty 
thoroughly. 

During  this  year  a  secret  expedition,  under  Lieutenant 
Synd,  was  organized  at  Ochotsk,  by  order  of  the  lunpross 
Catherine.  Lazcroff  arrived  in  Kamchatka.  On  the  25th 
of  August,  Ivan  Maxi'movich  Sohnioff  sailed  from  the  Kaiii- 
ch.c;tLa  River  in  the  Peter  and  Paul.  He  reached  l'mnak 
September  i6th,  and  there  learned  that  a  compact  had  been 
entered  into  by  the  chiefs  of  the  natives  on  Umnak,  Akutan, 
and  Unalashka  to  unite  in  driving  the  Russians  from  the 
islands,  or  to  destroy  them  all. 

1765.  At  l'mnak,  Soloviofl"  was  joined  by  Korovin,  who  loft 
Glottoff  in  the  spring  of  1765. 

1766.  They  proceeded  to  Unalashka,  where  tlicy  wintered,  ex- 
ploring and  hunting,  and  returned  in  July,  1766,  to  Kam- 
chatka.    Glottoff  reached  home  about  the  same  time. 

This  completes  the  list  of  the  discoveries  of  the  ricmishlc- 


niks.     While  we  cannot  but  admire  the  undaunted  encn 


■y 


r  i' 


with  which  these  voyages  were  prosecuted,  we  must  admit 
with  abhorrence  that  they  were  prompted  only  by  lust  and 
avarice,  and  were  accompanied  by  many  cf  Ih.e  most  horrible 
and  inexcusable  atrocities  which  have  ever  disgraced  the 
name  of  humanity.  These  outrage?,  i:nfortunaiely,  did  not 
end  with  the  Promishleniks,  but  characterized  the  wliole 
Russian  administration  of  the  territory  imtil  (he  recall  of 
Baranoff,  They  were  contrary  to  the  express  instructions 
of  the  government,  but,  as  the  Russian  proverb  has  it, 
"Heaven  is  high,  and  the  Czar  is  distant." 

1767,  The  wreck  of  the  government  vessel  at  OciiPtsk  delayed 
Synd's  expedition.  In  1767  he  left  Kamchatka,  sailed  toward 
Ikring  Strait,  passed  St.  Matthew  and  St.  Lawrence,  wliirh 
he  supposed  to  be  many  small  islands,  saw  the  Diomcdcs, 
and  landed  on  the  coast  of  y\merica  south  of  Cape  Prince 
of  Wales.  He  then  returned  along  tlu;  Kamchatka  coast, 
and  reached  Ochotsk  in  1768, 

1768.  On    ,'"''•''-■     1768,    Captain    Krenitzin    in    the    gal.  ,)t   .St. 

'  A  unjust  4.  '  ^  i  «^ 

Catherine,  and  Lieutenant  Lcvasheff  in  the  hooker  St. 
Paul,  sailed  from  the  Kamchatka  River  to  explore  the  Pox 


1 77 1. 


'// 


5- 


P- 


I 


|il'  i^ 


y  Koro- 
it  pretty 

outcnant 
luiipross 
the  25th 
he  Kaiii- 
[  I'mnak 
had  been 
,  Akutan, 
frorii  the 

who   left 

tcrcd,  ex- 
to  Kani- 
imc. 

'rcmishlc- 

:cl  energy 

list  achiiit 

y  hist  and 

it  horrible 

raced   the 

v,  did  not 

he   wliolc 

recall  of 

Istructions 

b   has  it, 


ice,  WllU'll 

!)ioniiili's, 


pe 


al.  ,)t  St. 


the  I'ox 


HISTORY. 


305 


1768.  Islands,  by  order  of  the  I^mpress.  Krcni'tzin,  after  touch- 
ing at  Bering  Island,  wintered  at  False  Pass,  and  explored 
somewhat  the  coast  of  Aliaska. 

1769.  Th.e  St.  I'aul  wintered  in  Unalashka,  and  after  fi.xing 
many  points  for  the  first  time  by  astronomical  observation, 
both  vessels  returned   to  Kamchatka  in   the  fall  of  1769. 

Spanish  settlements  were  made  during  this  year  at  San 
Diego,  and  an  exploring  party  by  lanil  reached  San  I'ran- 
cisco  Hay. 

1771.  In  Maya  number  of  Polish  exiles,  under  Count  Maurice 
dc  Benyowski,  overpowered  the  garrison  at  Holsheretsk. 
Kamchatka.  They  escapeil  to  sea  i'l  a  vessel  vvliijh  lay  in 
the  harbor,  hoisted  the  Polish  ilag,  and  visited  many  parts 
of  Bering  Sea  and  the  islands.  With  the  furs  whicli  they 
had  collected  they  finally  arrived  at  Canton. 

In  this  year  Samuel  llearne  made  his  explorations  on 
the  Coi)per-Mine   River. 

1772.  Stephen  Zai'kotif  visited  .^.liaska,  wintering  in  I'alsc  Pass, 
and  remained  among  the  Fox  Islands  until   1778. 

1774.  The  S[)anish  ensign,  Juan  Perez,  sailed  on  an  exploring 
expedition  from  Monterey  on  the  i6th  of  June.  On  the 
18th  of  July  he  discovered  Queen  Charlotte's  Island,  and, 
on  the  9tli  of  August,  Nootka  Sound. 

1775.  Captain  Bruno  Ileceta  in  the  Santiago,  and  Juan  i\c 
Ayala  in  the  Sonora,  sailed  northward  iVoin  San  l^las  on 
the  Californian  coast  in  company  with  the  schooner  S.m 
Carlos,  jor  Monterey,  March  15,  1775.  Lieutenant  Juan 
Frai.  iicj  de  la  r-xlcga  y  Ouachi  was  .«oon  put  in  chargt" 
of  the  Sonora,  and  Ayala  took  cliarge  of  the  .San  Carlos 
whose  captain  was  disabled.  L(  ,iving  the  schooner,  the  two 
exploring  vessels  proceeded  northward  to  a  small  roadstead 
north  of  Cape  Mendocino,  where  they  anehori'd,  calling  it 
Port  Trinidad.  After  leaving  this  point  they  sailed  north- 
ward and  anchored  off  Point  Grenville,  where  .seven  men 
beloQging  to  the  .Sonora  were  killed  by  the  natives.  .Soon 
after  the  vessels  vvere  separated  in  a  sforni,  .iiid  Ileceta 
seized  the  opportunity  to  return  to  Monteri:y,  wiiile  BcKlega 
kept  on  his  way. 

Ileceta    discovered,   on    the    15th    of  August,  the    mouth 


?iil 


I 


I  p 


i 


3o6 


HISTORY. 


I  ■'.■; 


'[l»»iH|: 


riaea,.' 


u 


1775-  of  the  Columbia  River.  He  arrived  at  Monterey  on  Au- 
gust 30th.  Bodega  and  Maurellc  in  the  schooner  advance<l 
northward.  On  the  15th  of  August  they  saw  hind,  and 
soon  after  discovered  Mount  Edgecumbe,  which  they  named 
Mount  San  Jacinto.  After  making  various  explorations 
they  sailed  southward,  discovering  Dixon's  Entrance,  which 
they  named  Perez  Inlet,  explored  Bodega  Bay,  and  finally 
arrived  at  San  Jilas  on  the  20th  of  November. 

i7'/6.  On  the  12th  of  July,  Cai)tain  James  Cook  in  the  Resolu- 
tion, and  Captain  Charles  Clerke  in  the  Discovery,  sailcu 
from  riymouth,  England,  on  a  voyage  of  discovery  in  the 
North  Pacific.  Among  the  officers  who  accompanied  this 
expedition  were  King,  Bligh,  I:5urney,  Gore  (of  Virginia), 
Vancouver  (as  midshipman),  and  John  Lcdyard,  of  Connecti- 
cut, who  was  a  corporal  of  marines. 

1778.  SolovioiT,  Bragin,  and  others  trading  among  the  Aleutian 
Islands,  committed  many  enormities  among  the  natives. 

Near  the  end  of  March,  Cook  anchored  in  Nootka  Sound. 
Proceeding  northward,  he  saw  the  mountain  called  San  Ja- 
cinto by  Bodega,  and  named  it  Mount  Edgecumbe,  which 
name  it  still  retains.  On  the  4th  of  May  he  saw  and  named 
Mount  St.  Elias,  and  during  the  month  explored  Chugach 
Gulf  and  Cook's  Inlet.  Touching  at  Unalashka,  he  entered 
Bering  Strait  in  August,  and  traced  the  coast  northeastward 
to  Icy  Cape;,  where  he  turned  back.  On  his  return  he  ex- 
plored part  of  Norton  Sound  rnd  Bay.  On  the  3d  of  Oc- 
tober he  touched  at  Unala.shka  again,  and  then  proceeded  to 
the  Sandwich  Islands,  where  he  was  killed  by  the  natives  011 
the  1 6th  of  February,  1779.* 

1779.  Captain  Charles  Clerke,  in  command  of  Cook's  Expedi- 
tion, left  the  Sandwich  Islands  and  reached  Petropavlov-k 
on  the  29111  of  April,  1779.  He  soon  afterward  sailed  for 
Bering  Strait,  but  the  great  accumulation  of  ice  prevented 
any  progress  to  the  eastward.  He  returned  to  Kamchatka, 
and  died  of  consumption,  on  ')oard  his  vessel,  off  Avatcha 
Bay,  August  22d.      Lieutenant  John  Gore  then  took  com 

*  Cantain  James  Cook,  born  at  Maiton  in  Yorkshire,  October  27,  1728,  ma<: 
Master  R.  N.  in  17SQ,  Lieutenant  in  1768,  Conimantlei  in  1771,  and  Captain  in  1771 
One  oCthc  most  ilistingui.slicd  and  accurate  Knglisli  navigators. 


1785 
i 
I 

1786, 


*  Jean 

»M  .  lost  , 


HISTORY. 


307 


lun  in  I77S- 


1779.  mand,  and  it  was  determined  to  return  to  Encjland.  The 
expedition  left  Kamchatka  for  lilngland,  via  Canton,  in  Oc- 
tober, 1779. 

In  this  year  Catherine  II.  issued  a  ukase,  ordering  the 
Aleuts  to  pay  tribute  {ydssak),  to  assist  all  Russian  trading 
companies,  and  to  sell  furs  to  them  only. 

On  the  7th  of  February,  1779,  a  Spanish  expedition,  under 
Arteaga  and  Hotlega,  sailed  from  San  l^las,  visiting  Port  Bu- 
carelli  and  Chngach  Gulf,  from  which  they  sailed  on  the  7th 
of  August  for  San  Bias. 

1 78 1.  I'otan  Zaikoff  visited  and  explored  in  detail  Chugach 
Gulf,  and  wintered  on  Bering  Island.  Nagaieff  discovered 
the  mouth  of  the  Copper  River.  Ivan  (iolikoff,  Gregory 
Shelikoff,  and  other  fur-merchants  of  .Siberia  and  Kam- 
chatka, formed  an  association  for  the  more  effective  manage- 
ment of  their  business. 

17S3.  Three  vessels  equipped  by  them  sailed  in  August,  1783, 
from  Ochotsk,  under  the  command  of  Shtlikoff.  lie  occu- 
pied, in  the  name  of  Russia,  several  points  on  the  island  of 
Kadiak,  and  erected  the  f.rst  factory  there.  A  vessel  called 
the  St.  Alexius,  commanccd  by  Alexieff  Popoff,  .vas  attacked 
by  the  natives  ii  Prince  William's  Sound  or  Chugach  Gulf. 
Zai'koff  explored  Captain's  Harbor,  Unalashka,  July--,  I7<S3. 

1785  The  expedition  of  La  Perouse,*  planncrd  by  Louis  XVI. 
in  person,  left  France  for  the  Pacific.  James  Manna,  from 
Marao,  traded  at  Nootka  .Sound. 

1786.  In  jUne,  La  i'erouse  saw  M'nmt  St.  IClias,  and  anchored 
afterward  in  Lituya  Bay.  Here  he  lost  two  boats  and 
twenty-one  men,  in  the  bore  at  the  entrance,  July  13,  1786. 
He  described  this  liay  in  detail,  and  tlien  sailed  south- 
ward to  Monterey,  and  left  the  American  coast  forever. 

In  this  year,  James  Hanna  made  a  second  trading  voyage 
to  the  northwest  coa'.t.  Me  desired  to  establish  trade  be- 
tween Macao  and  Kamchatka,  and  ser.t  Captain  Peters  in 
the  brig  Lark  to  Petropavlovsk,  wnerj  an  arrangement  was 
made  with  Shelikoff  to  exchange  furs  for  Ciiinese  and  lui- 
ropcan  goods   with  ihe   English.     On   her  rctu  n  the  Lark 

*  Jean  Kranfois  dc  Gallou])  elf  la  Porousc,  lioin  in   I-angiicflnc,  August  22,  1741, 
was  lost  at  sea  on  this  c.xpccliiioii  in  17U8.     He  was  i;ust  heard  fium  at  Holjuy  Bay. 


''ii 


U4' 


% 


wm 


308 


HISTORY. 


J   1': 


1786.  was  lost  oil  Copper  Island,  with  nearly  all  on  board,  and  the 
project  was  not  carried  out. 

Several  Iradinj^  vessels  from  China,  nK)stly  manned  by  Eng- 
lishnien,  bnt  under  the  fa;;  of  the  ICast  India  C"om|)any, 
visited  the  northwest  coast  in  1786.  Among  them  was  one 
under  Captain  John  Meares  and  another  under  Cap.'.ain 
Tipiiing,  from  (.'alcutta.  Captains-  Lowrie  and  (iuise,  from 
lionihay,  sailed  from  Nootka  to  Clui;^ach  and  back  to  Macao. 
Meares  and  Tipping  visited  the  Aleutian  Islands  and  Chu- 
gach  (iulf.  Meares  wintered  here,  and  lost  many  men  by 
scurvy  and  lack  of  pr(A'isions.  Tipping  sailed,  but  was 
never  heard  from  afterward. 

The  King  (l<:orge's  Sound  Com])any,  a  mercantile  associa- 
tion for  fur-trading,  fitted  out  the  shij)s  King  (ieorge  and 
Queen  Charlotte  under  Captains  I'ortlock  and  l)i:;on,  who 
left  ICngland  in  August,  17M5.  They  reached  Cook's  Inlet 
in  July,  17S6,  and  wintered  in  the  Sandwich  Island.s. 

1787.  I.ebadeff  Last(')ciikin  and  (ierasim  I'n'byloff  discovered 
the  island  of  .St.  Paid  on  the  29th  of  June,  and  the  suc- 
ceeding year  the  latt>.'r  discovered  the  island  of  .St.  (ieorge. 
lie  named  them  the  Suboff  Islands,  but  they  are  more  gen- 
erally known  as  the  I'n'byloff  Islands.  .Samoyloff  took  charg<' 
of  the  factory  at  Three  .Saint.s'  I5ay,  Kadiak  ;  and  .Shelikoff 
sailed  for  Ochotsk. 

In  the  spring  of  1787,  I'ortlock  and  Dixon  visited  Cook's 
Inlet  and  Chug;ich  again.  They  found  Meares  at  the  latter 
place  in  very  bad  condition,  with  more  than  half  his  men 
dead  of  scurvy.  Di.xon  then  proceeded  to  Nootka,  exploring 
as  he  went.  I'ortlock  passed  the  trading  season  between 
Chugach  and  Mount  St.  IClias,  and  rejoined  Dixon  in 
C^anton. 

Secret  orders  were  sent  from  St.  Petersburg  by  Lieuten- 
ant-General  John  Jacobi  to  Captain  Delareff,  Samoyloff,  and 
others,  in  relation  to  taking  possession  of  any  new  discov- 
eries in  the  name  of  Russia. 

In  tliis  year.  Captain  Berkeley,  of  the  ship  Imperial  Eagle, 
discovered  the  Straits  of  Fuca. 

Shelikoff,  luiving  arrived  at  Irkutsk,  found  tliat  one  of 
the  Gulikolf  brothers  had  been  defrauding  the  association. 


HISTORY. 


309 


lid  the 

npiiny, 
as  one 
"aptain 
l;,  from 
Mucao. 
.1  Chu- 
icn  l)y 
Lit    was 

issocia- 
■gc  and 
jn,  who 
's  Inlet 

covered 
;he  siic- 
fk:orgc. 
^rcn- 
c  cluir<;c 
,helikoir 

1  ( "ooU's 
V.  lallcr 
lis  n)i;ii 
xploriiii; 
)ctwei;n 
ixon    in 

^ii'iilcn- 
;l<jir,  and 
discov- 

;d  l''asi;lc, 

t    C)!1C    of 
iociatiou. 


1787.  A  rc<;ular  commercial  bureau  was  therefore  organized. 
On  ^'l^^u'xi^i'^^f  Shelikofit"  and  (l(')likoff  received  medals  and 
portraits  from  Catherine  II.  in  acknowledgment  of  their 
services.  Shrlikoif  had  bct.'ii  for  nearly  five  y(,'ar.s  etigaged 
in  uninterrupted  e.vplorations  and  the  establishment  of  trad- 
ing-posts. During  the  whole  of  ihis  period  he  had  been  ac- 
companied by  his  wife  Nathalia  Shelikolt,  a  woman  of  re- 
markable intelligence  and  energy.  Gregory  Slu'Iikolf,  of 
Rylsk  in  .Siberia,  was  a  man  of  great  energy,  and  thoroughly 
acquainted  with  his  calling,  but  unscrupulous  and  grasping, 
never  hesitating  at  any  falsehood  ur  outrage  which  would 
advance  his  interest.s. 

1788.  On  ihe  1st  of  January,  John  Meares  and  William  Doug- 
las, supercargoes,  sailed  from  Macao  in  the  Felice  and  Iphi- 
genia,  I'ortuguese  vessels,  with  captains  of  the  same  nation, 
but  really  under  the  sole  charge  of  j\h:ares.  The  Iphigenia 
sailed  to  Cook's  Inlet,  and  passed  the  summer  trading  there 
and  to  the  .southward.  Meares,  in  the  I'"elice,  went  to  .Nootka 
where  he  erected  a  ouihling,  fortified  it  against  the  natives, 
and  left  part  of  his  crew  th<;re  to  build  a  small  vessel,  while 
he  proceeded  to  the  Straits  of  Fuca.  I'rom  that  point  he 
sailed  in  search  of  the  Columbia  I'v.iver,  which  he  failed  to 
find.  He  then  returned  to  Nootka,  where  the  Iphigenia  had 
arrived,  and,  taking  all  the  luis,  sailed  to  Canton,  leaving  the 
brig  and  the  small  vessel,  which  had  been  named  the  North- 
west-America, to  winter  at  the  .Sandwich  Islands.  Before 
Meares  departed,  the  ship  Washington,  fitttid  out  by  a  com- 
pany of  Hoston  merchants,  enti:ied  Nootka  .Soimd  on  the 
17th  of  .September,  in  charge  of  Captain  Robert  (iray.  .Soon 
after,  the  sloop  Columbia  of  the  same  e.\peditioi\  reached 
Nootka,  in  charge  of  Captain  John  Kendriek,  with  Josej)h 
Ingraham  as  second  offic.-r.  The  two  American  vessels  win- 
tered in  the  .Sound. 

The  .Spanish  authorities,  who  claimeil  the  sole  right  to 
navigate  the  I'acific  on  the  northwest  coast  of  America, 
became  aware  of  the  visits  of  the  various  traders,  and  for 
further  information  (icspatchetl  vessels  from  .San  Bias,  Cali- 
fornia, in  charge  of  listevan  Martinez  and  (ion/alo  Maro. 
This  expedition  left  San   Bias  March   8,    17S8,  and  (Milered 


f 


& 


'  i;- 


11 


^  I 


;<ll 


-r 


,1 


II 


f'l 


i\i 


•I 


n. 


••Mik,'..- 


'*X'<J\ 


310 


HISTORY. 


178S.  Chugach  Gulf  on  the  25th  of  May.  In  June,  Haro  visited 
Kadiak  and  obtained  the  desired  information  in  regard  to 
the  Russian  tra.lers  from  I*^.  Delareff,  who  had  been  left  in 
charge  there  by  Shelikofif.  Haro  rejoined  Martinez  in  July, 
the  latter  having  meanwhile  explored  the  Gulf  They  then 
sailed  for  Unaliishka,  remaining  there  until  September  l8lh,- 
when  they  returned  to  California. 

T>vo  vessels  were  sent  in  this  year,  under  Ismyloff  and 
l-echaref*",  as  far  south  as  Mount  St.  I<21ias,  and  a  Russian 
redoubt  and  trading-post  was  established  at  the  mouth  of 
the  Copper  River.  Delareff  determined  astronomieally  the 
situation  of  Three  Saints'  Bay,  Kadiak.  Three  thousand 
sea-otter  skins  were  obtained  by  him  in  Cook's   Inlet. 

An  earthquake  caused  a  tidal  wave,  which  passed  from 
Aliaska  to  Sanak  Island,  and  created  a  great  inundation 
in  the  island  of  Unga,  during  which  many  natives  lost  their 
lives. 

On  the  j-  October,  1788,  Shelikofif  received  from  the  Rus- 
sian government  the  monopol)'  of  the  fur  trade  in  the 
Catherina  Archipelago. 

1789.  The  reports  of  the  outrages  committed  by  Glottoff  and 
Soloviofif  having  reached  St.  Petersburg,  an  expedition  for 
inquiry  and  exploration  was  organized  in  1785.  This  was 
put  in  charge  of  a  timid  and  incompetent  I-lnglishman, 
Joseph  liillings,  who  had  acted  as  assistant  to  Bayly,  the 
astronomer  of  Cook's  expedition.  Dr.  ("ail  Merck,  "a  man 
combining  an  almost  puerile  timidity  with  extraordinary 
intelligence,"  accompanied  him  as  naturalist.  They  arrive' 1 
at  Pctroiiavlovsk  from  Ochotsk  in  1788.  On  the  9th  ut 
May,  1789,  they  sailed  from  that  port  to  Unalashka,  and 
afterward  as  far  as  Kadiak,  where  they  wintered.  Martin 
Saur,  a  German  who  acted  as  secretary  of  the  expedition, 
collected  much  information  in  regard  tO  the  country  and 
the  natives. 

Early  in  the  year  the  Spaniards,  determined  to  put  an 
end  to  the  encroachments  of  the  English  and  other  traders, 
cc|uipped  Martinez  and  Haro,  who  entered  Nootka  .Sound 
May  6,  1789.  Here  they  found  the  Columbia  and  the 
Iphigenia.     Martinez  immediately  informed  them  of  his  in- 


y  *  ; 


'A, 

lis 
'S    ' 

1 


!l, 


HISTORY. 


311 


1789.  tcntion  to  take  possession  of  the  Sound  in  the  name  of 
.Spain,  and,  landiiij^  materials  and  artillery,  built  a  fort  on 
a  small  island  near  Friendly  Cove,  to  enforce  his  instruc- 
tions. Trouble  arose  between  Martinez  and  Colnctt  and 
Hudson,  two  captains  who  had  been  sent  from  Macao  by 
Meares  under  the  ICnglish  flag  *  Finally,  their  vessels,  the 
Princess  Royal,  the  Argonaut,  and  the  Northwest-America, 
were  seized  by  Martinc.?-  He  sailed,  with  the  vessels,  car- 
goes, and  some  of  the  prisoners,  for  San  Bias  in  November. 
Some  of  the  prisoners  were  put  on  board  the  Columbia,  to 
be  taken  by  that  vessel  to  China. 

The  American  vessels  had  not  been  disturbed  by  the 
Spaniards.  The  Washington  explored  in  June  the  whole 
east  coast  of  Queen  Charlotte's  Island,  which  had  not  been 
visited  by  white  men  before,  though  Captain  James  Duncan 
had  sailed  through  the  strait  which  separated  it  from  the 
mainland,  in  1788.  In  a  subsequent  excursion  from  Nootka, 
the  Washington  explored  the  Straits  of  Fuca  for  fifty  miles. 
Gray  then  returned,  and  met  the  Columbia  bound  for  China, 
and  made  an  arrangement  by  which  Kendrick  took  charge 
of  the  sloop  and  remained  on  the  coast,  while  Gray  sailed 
for  Macao  and  Canton  f  with  the  Columbia.  Kendrick  im- 
mediately returned  with  the  sloop,  and  more  thoroughly  ex- 
plored the  Straits  of  Fuca,  and  made  the  first  passage 
through  them.  In  November,  1789,  the  .schooner  Fair 
American,  Captain  Metcalf,  reached  Nootka,  and  was  seized 
by  Martinez,  but  aflerwa:  1  released. 

In  this  year  Mackenzie  descended  the  river  which  bears 
his  name. 

1790.  Slulikoff  organized  a  company,  under  the  title  of  the 
Shelikotl  Com[)any,  at  Irkutsk,  for  the  management  of  the 
fur  trade  and  monopoly. 

By  a  uka.se,  Catherine  II.  orderctl  the  Aleuts  to  send  a 
certain  number  of  bidarnis  every  year,  to  hunt,  and  to  sell 
all  furs   to   Slielikoff's  company,  in  consideration  of  which 

*  For  particulars  see  Greenhow's  History  of  Oregon  and  Cr.litbrnia,  Chaii.  \'III. 

I  Gray  reached  Canton  December  titli,  and  took  un  hoard  a  cargo  of  tea,  witli 
which  lie  arrived  in  Boston  .\ugust  lo,  1790,  having  carried  the  l.'nited  Slates  Hag 
round  the  world  for  the  lirst  time. 


**! 


^ .: 


,j^«;lri|| 


312 


HISTORY. 


1790.  the  yassak,  or  tribute,  was  renounced  by  the  Russian  gov- 
ernment. 1'^  Delareff",  a  Greek,  who  had  been  long  at  Ka- 
diak,  was  made  Chief  Director  of  affairs  in  the  colony  ;  and 
Alexander  Baranoff,  a  sailor  who  had  shown  great  energy 
in  the  service,  was  put  in  charge  of  the  Kadiak  and  Cook's 
Inlet  trading-posts.  Haranoff  had  accompanied  Shelikoff  in 
1783,  and  was  a  man  of  indomitable  energy,  destitute  of 
scruples  of  any  kind.  lie  received  secretly,  August  ~l,  in- 
structions as  to  the  treatment  of  the  natives  and  the  occu- 
pation of  new  territory.  He  was  appointed  one  of  the 
board  of  directors  for  the  colonies. 

Billings  left  Kadiak*  July  31,  1790,  and  sailed  southeast 
as  far  as  Chugach  Gulf,  where  he  was  threatened  by  the 
natives.  He  then  returned  to  Kamchatka,  where  he  arrived 
October  14th. 

The  Spaniards  sent  an  expedition  under  Lieutenant  Sal- 
vator  Fidalgo  to  establish  a  permanent  post  at  Nootka  and 
explore  the  coasts  to  the  northward.  He  reached  Chugacli, 
and  spent  several  months  exploring  there  and  in  Cook's 
Inlet,  returning  to  San  Bias  November  14,  1790.  Lieuten- 
ant Quimper,  in  the  sloop  Princess  Royal,  explored  the 
Straits  of  Fuca  for  the  Spanish  government.  He  returned 
to  San  Bias  in  August. 

On  the  return  of  the  Columbia  the  merchants  of  Boston 
fitted  her  out  .'or  a  new  voyage  to  the  northwest  coast,  under 
Captain  Gray.  The  brig  Hope  was  also  despatched  in 
charge  of  Joseph  Ingrahani,  former  mate  of  the  Columbia. 
These  vessels  were  followed  by  the  Hancock,  Captain  Crow- 
ell,  the  Jefferson,  Captain  Roberts,  and  the  Margaret  from 
New  York  under  Captain  Magee. 

1791.  On  the  29th  of  June,  Ingraham  anchored  in  a  harbor 
in  the  southeast  part  of  Queen  Charlotte's  Island.  He  spent 
the  summer  in  trading  and  exploring,  and  sailed  in  the  fall 
for  China.  In  the  summer  of  1791,  Kendrick,  in  the  Wash- 
ington, purchased  from  the  natives  larf^c  tracts  of  land  near 
Nootka  Sound,  and  sailed  for  Macao.     The  Columbia'  ar- 

*  I  have  followed  S.niychcfrs  version.  As  the  expedition  w.is  a  secret  one,  the 
accounts  differ,  some  saying  th.at  the  c.xpediliou  first  sailed  iu  1790,  but  SarychctT'.s 
narrative  is  probably  the  correct  one. 


179I. 


!IL. 


I  ■!' 


mM 


HISTORY. 


313 


an  gov- 
at  Ka- 
iiy  ;  and 
cncrf^y 
;  Cook's 
likoff  in 
itutc  of 

St  zi,  in- 

[ic  occu- 

of  the 

outheast 
I  by  the 
i  arrived 

ant  Sal- 
3tka  and 
"hugach, 
1  Cook's 
l.ieuton- 
prcd  the 
returned 

Boston 

;,  under 

ched   in 

olumbia. 

n  Crow- 

et  from 

harbor 
c  spent 
the  fall 
c  Wash- 
md  near 
nbia'  ar- 

;t  one,  the 
3arychctT'.s 


1791.  rived  in  the  Straits  of  Fuca  in  June,  1791.  Gray  explored 
much  of  the  coast,  includinj^  the  I'ortland  Canal,  and  re- 
turned to  Clyoquot,  near  the  Straits  of  Fucn.  Here  the 
crew  built  a  small  vessel,  called  the  Adventure,  and  a  post, 
which  they  named  Fort  Defiance. 

On  the  2d  of  June,  1791,  Captain  Alexandro  Malespina, 
an  Italian  in  the  service  of  Spain,  arrived  on  the  coast  near 
Mount  Edgecumbe  with  two  vessels.  They  explored  the 
coast  between  Chugach  and  Mount  I'^airweather,  and  estab- 
lished a  few  points  on  the  coast  to  the  southward,  returning 
to  Nootka  August  13,  1791. 

The  French  ship  Solide,  Captain  I'^tienne  Marchand, 
visited  Norfolk  Sound  and  other  parts  of  the  coast  in  this 
year,  and  left  the  Straits  of  Fuca  for  Canton  in  the  fall. 

Shelikoff's  first  vessel,  the  Ivan  Predecha,  was  wrecked 
on  St.  Paul  Island  during  the  summer.  He  visited  the  isl- 
and of  Kadiak,  and  reported  a  population  of  50,000,  to 
enhance  the  supposed  value  of  his  discoveries.  Explora- 
tions were  made  by  Chaedikoff  in  the  Aleutian  Islands. 
JJecheretf  explored  more  thoroughly  the  Peninsula  of  Aliaska. 
Baranoff  built  a  vessel  called  the  I'enie,  in  Chugach  Gulf, 
but  she  was  not  launched  for  three  years. 

April  16,  1791,  Billings  and  Sarycheff  sailed  from  Petro- 
pavlovsk,  visiting  Unahishka,  St.  Paul,  St.  Lawrence,  Aziak, 
and  the  Diomedes.  They  touched  on  the  American  coast 
near  Cape  Prince  of  Wales,  and  then  anchored  in  St.  Law- 
rence Bay  on  the  Asiatic  side.  Saur  gives  an  amusing  ac- 
count of  the  harsh  treatment  he  received  from  the  natives 
on  account  of  his  diminutive  size.  Billings  and  Saur  left 
the  vessel  in  charge  of  a  Captain  Hall,  and  pursued  their 
journey  overland  to  the  Kolyma,  August  4,  1791.  A  boat 
expedition  was  sent  round  to  the  Kolyma  by  sea  to  examine 
the  shore,  but  we  have  no  record  of  their  success.  Sarycheff 
and  Hall  sailed  for  Unahishka  August  1,3th,  and  wintered 
there,  returning  to  Kamchatka  in  the  following  spring. 
\'()2.  The  viceroy  of  Mexico  equipped  three  vessels,  in  the 
spring  of  1792,  to  continue  the  explorations.  These  were 
the  corvette  Aransasu,  Lieutenant  Jacinto  Caamano;  the 
schooner  Sutil,  under  Lieutenant  Dionisio  Alcala  Galiano  ; 


I  J' 
1 


'  i  /j 


i 

1 

'.  i-k«t 

■  il;tl 

i  I' 1 1 

Ml 


T^ 


314 


HISTORY. 


pi«ttr;'|i|||j 

IP*'  I!  II  Ij 


i 


liw«j||;iiii 


1792.  and  another  named  the  Mcxicana,  in  cliarp;c  of  Lieutenant 
Cayetano  Valdcs.  These  vessels  arriv(Ml  from  San  HIas  at 
Nootka  in  May,  and  departed  ;  the  corvette  to  look  for  the 
mouth  of  the  supposeil  Rio  del  Reyes,  and  the  others  to 
explore  the  Straits  of  [•"uca.  Captain  Modega  y  (Juadra 
also  went  to  Nootka  to  treat  willi  Vancouver,*  who  had 
been  sent  out  from  England  to  settle  the  difficulties  al 
Nootka. 

Vancouver,  in  the  ship  Discovery,  with  Lieutenant  Rol)cit 
B'-ouj;hton,  in  the  brij;  Chatham,  sailed  from  ICnj^land  in 
January,  1791.  He  w^as  instructed  to  explore  the  Straits 
of  b'uca,  survey  the  northwest  coast  from  the  35th  to  tlu' 
Coth  i)arallel,  and  determine,  with  the  Spanish  Commissioner, 
what  indemnity  should  be  made  to  l'ji<;lish  subjects  on 
account  of  the  Nootka  difficulty.  He  reached  the  west 
coast  April  17,  1792.  .Sailed  northward,  and  jiassed  Cape 
Flattery  without  discovering  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia. 
On  the  29th  of  April  he  met  Captain  Gray  in  the  ship 
Columbia,  and  after  an  interview  he  proceeded  to  survey 
the  Straits  of  I'uca.  At  the  same  time,  Gray  sailed  to  ex- 
amine the  Columbia  River,  the  mouth  of  which  he  had  pre- 
viously noticed.  On  the  nth  of  May  he  entered  the  mouth 
of  the  great  river  which  he  named  after  his  ship.  He  sailed 
up  stream  about  fifteen  miles,  and  left  the  river  on  the  20tli, 
after  filling  his  casks.  He  then  proceeded  to  Nootka,  where 
the  Hope  had  also  arrived,  and  after  communicating  his  dis- 
covery to  Captain  Quadra  the  two  vessels  sailed  for  Canton. 
Vancouver  meanwhile  surveyed  the  archipelago  to  lat.  52°  18', 
meeting  the  two  Spanish  schooners  in  Admiralty  Inlet  after 
his  return  to  the  Straits  of  Fuca.  Together  they  continued 
their  ex[)lorations,  antl  Vancouver  passed  into  the  ocean 
through  Dixon's  Entrance  and  returned  to  Nootka.  Men 
he  found  the  store-ship  Dxdalus,  which  brought  his  in- 
structions from  I'jigland,  in  charge  of  Lieutenant  New. 
After  some  fruitless  negotiations  with  the  Spaniards  (for 
which  see  Greenhow,  Chap.  XI.),  he  i)roceeded  to  the  month 
of  the  Columbia,  which  was  entered  by  the  Chatham,  whieh 

*  Captain  George  Vancouver,  born  aliout  175S,  served  on  Cook's  Expedition,  sui- 
vcycd  the  western  American  coast  as  related,  and  died,  worn  out  with  his  labors,  i" 
May,  1798,  before  his  report  was  quite  finished. 


M 


HISTORY. 


Lieutenant 
■ian  Bias  ai 
look  for  tlic 
e  others  to 
L  y  Oiiadra 
*  who  had 
ffieulties   al 

lant  R()l)t:it 
ICiighuKl   ill 
the   Straits 
35th  to  tho 
iiiiniissioncr, 
subjects   on 
;cl    the   west 
massed  Cape 
J  Cohunhia. 
in    the   ship 
lI   to  survey 
;ailecl  to  c.\- 
he  had  prc- 
:1  the  mouth 
He  sailed 
on  the  20tli, 
lotka,  where 
tinj^  his  (lis- 
for  Canton. 
)lat.  52°i8' 
y  Inlet  after 
ly  continued 
the   ocean 
otka.     Here 
^ht   his  in- 
cnant    New. 
•aniards  (lor 
o  the  mouth 
tham,  which 

KxiKxlition,  siii- 
h  his  labors,  in 


315 


179J.  found  there  the  hrig  Jenny  of  Bristol,  which  had  left  Nootka 
a  few  days  hefoie,  Vancouver  sailed  to  San  Francisco  Bay, 
where  the  Chatham  afterward  joined  him. 

In  Octoher,  1792,  Mackenzie  started  on  his  journey  across 
the  continent. 

l-'uslratus  Ivanovich  Delareff,  Chief  Director  of  the  colo- 
nies, resifrned  his  position  to  Baninoff,  wlio  had  shown  him- 
self well  fitted  for  the  j)ost.  A  settlement  was  made  on  St. 
Taul's  Bay,  Kadiiik.  A  company  of  Russians,  untler  Stepan 
Zaikoff  ami  Lebedeff  Last(')chk'n,  established  themselves  in 
Cook's  Inlet  and  Bristol  Bay,  claiming;  that  this  territory  was 
not  embraced  in  the  j;rant  of  the  Shelikoff  Comi)any. 

i;93.  Vanc.'Uver  reached  Nootka  May  20th  from  the  Sandwich 
Islands  and  the  southern  coast.  He  s[)eiit  the  summer  in 
careful  explorations  from  the  51st  to  the  ^C>ih  parallel.  He 
saileil  for  .San  Francisco  on  the  icjlh  of  October. 

Mackenzie  descended  the  l*"razer  River,  reached  the  head 
of  the  (iulf  of  Georgia  July  20,  1793,  and  wrote  in  vermilion 
on  the  cliff,  "  Alexander  Mackenzie,  from  Canada  by  land, 
the  22d  of  July,  1793."  He  returned  by  the  route  over 
which  he  came. 

Myu>  '793>  ^  »l<ase  was  issued  by  the  Empress  of  Russia, 
authorizing  the  introduction  of  missionaries  into  the  Ameri- 
can colonics,  and  the  shipment  of  convicts  thither  to  teach 
the  natives  agriculture!  Thirty  of  these  agriculturists  were 
settled  on  the  peninsula  of  Kenai  by  Baninoff.  Baninoff 
and  Ismyloff  were  attacked  by  the  natives  when  exploring 
the  Gulf  of  Chugach ;  the  latter  were  repulsed.  The  Rus- 
sians lost  eleven  men  in  this  encounter,  of  whom  nine  were 
Aleutians. 

A  serious  conflict  arose  between  Baranofifand  the  L6be- 
deff  Lastochkin  Company  concerning  the  right  of  hunting  in 
Cook's  Inlet. 

1794.  Vancouver,  returning  to  his  explorations,  rediscovered 
Chirikoff  Island,  and  entered  Cook's  Inlet  April  12,  1794. 
He  left  it,  after  a  thorough  survey,  in  May,  and  explored 
the  coasts  and  islands  to  the  southward,  reaching  Chatham 
Strait,  and  finishing  his  work.  He  sailed  from  Port  Con- 
clusion  August  22,   1794,  and  touched  at   Nootka  and  on 


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HISTORY. 


1794.  the  California  coast  on  his  way  home.  The  explorations 
which  he  carried  out  have  not  been  excelled  by  any  other 
navigator,  and  were  faithfully  and  thoroughly  pcrfornicil. 
The  contending  parties  at  Nootka  abandoned  the  contrc- 
versy,  and  in  1795  withdrew  their  forces,  leaving  the  Souml 
to  the  natives  and  traders. 

Archimandrite  Joasaph,  Kldcr  of  the  Augustin  friars,  was 
invited  to  settle  in  the  colony  by  Ivan  and  Michael  Golikotf 
and  Gregory  Shelikoft",  who  had  returned  to  Siberia. 

May  "j,  Shelikoff  was  ordered  to  settle  twenty  convicts 
and  their  families  near  Cape  St.  IClias.  In  conseciucncc, 
August  ^,  two  vessels  sailed  for  Kadiak  from  Ochcitsk.  The 
first  had  one  hundred  and  ninety  emigrants,  two  overseers. 
and  eleven  monks  on  board.  The  other  carried  sixty  hunt- 
ers, two  overseers,  and  a  valuable  cargo.  There  was  j^rcat 
mortality  among  the  colonists  after  their  arrival.  Shelikotf 
engaged  seventy  more  men  in  Siberia,  who  were  sent  to  the 
colony. 

Baranoff  sent  an  expedition  to  examine  Bering  Bay,  which 
returned  with  2,000  sea-otter  skins. 

The  newly  arrived  monks  and  missionaries  were  obliged 
to  work  for  their  living,  the  Company  refusing  to  support 
then*  in  idleness.  This  state  of  things  is  said  to  have  con- 
tinued for  nearly  twenty  years.  On  ^'^^^^,y,  an  arrangement 
was  made  to  open  a  trade  with  China. 

In  this  year  the  first  complaint  regularly  entered  by  a 
native  in  his  own  name  was  made  against  the  impositions 
and  cruelties  of  the  Company.  The  cries  of  the  unfortunate 
Aleuts  reached  even  to  St.  Petersburg,  and  on  the  death  of 
Catherine  II.  the  Emperor  Paul  seriously  contemplated  the 
withdrawal  of  the  franchise  from  the  Shelikoff  Company. 
The  expedition  of  Billings,  in  every  other  respect  a  failure 
from  the  inrompetency  of  the  commander,  produced  one 
good  efi'ect,  which  was  the  ventilation  of  the  abuses  prac- 
tised by  the  traders. 

1795.  The  Company  extended  its  operations.  Shelikoff  forwaroal 
thirty  colonists.  The  settlement  of  New  Russia  was  estab- 
lished on  Bering  or  Yakutat  Bay.  Two  small  vessels,  the 
Dolphin  and  the  Olga,  were  built  in  Resurrection  Bay.    Rev. 


e  explorations 
by  any  other 
ly  perlbrmcd. 
d  the  contrc- 
ng  the  Sound 

3tin  friars,  was 
chad  Golikotf 
ibcria. 

k^enty  convicts 
consequence, 
Dchotsk.  The 
two  overseers, 
ied  sixty  hunt- 
ere  was  great 
/al.  Shelikotf 
ere  sent  to  tlie 

ng  Bay,  which 

1  were  obliged 
ing  to  support 
d  to  have  con- 


n  arrangement 


entered  by  a 
he  impositions 
he  unfortunate 
1  the  death  of 
itemplatcd  the 
voft"  Company, 
spect  a  failure 

produced  one 
e  abuses  prac- 

ikoffforwarucd 
3sia  was  estab- 
lall  vessels,  the 
ion  Bay.    Rev 


HISTORY. 


3'7 


1795.  Father  Joasaph  complained  oflficially  of  BaranofT's  conduct 
to  the  missionaries.  He  furthermore  reported  the  conver- 
sion of  12,000  natives,  which  remarkable  statement  was  natu- 
rally received  with  doubt  at  St.  Petersburg 

The  Company  received  a  great  blow  in  the  death  of  its 
founder,  Gregory  Shelikoflf,  at  Irkutsk,  in  the  fall  of  1795. 
His  heirs  carried  on  the  operations  without  cessation,  and 
his  wife,  Nathdlia  Shelikoflf,  acted  several  years  as  President 
of  the  Company.  As  she  could  neither  read  nor  write,  she 
signed  by  her  son,  Ivan  Shelikoflf,  as  proxy.  In  the  winter, 
the  first  census  of  Kadiak  showed  about  i.^JO  adult  native 
males,  and  the  same  number  of  females. 

1796.  The  government  having  authorized  a  fort  to  be  built  on 
Yakutat  Bay,  a  post  and  fortifications  were  erected,  and 
a  number  of  convicts,  assigned  by  the  Czar,  were  .settled 
there.  Shuitz  explored  Lituya  Bay  and  the  head  of  Lynn 
Canal  for  the  Company.  An  expedition  under  Sam6yloflf  to 
the  Copper  River  was  cut  oflf  by  the  hostile  natives.  Kadiak 
was  designated  as  the  principal  depot  of  the  Company. 
Mount  Edgccumbe  is  said  to  have  emitted  fire  and  smoke 
for  the  last  time. 

July  i2,  1796,  Father  Joasaph  was  made  a  bishop  by  ukase. 
Father  Juvenati  attempted  to  put  down  polygamy  among 
the  inhabitants  of  Kenai.  He  was  afterwards  killed  while 
preaching  to  the  natives  near  Iliamna  Lake.  The  first  Rus- 
so-Greek  church  was  erected  in  Kadiak.  A  vessel  called 
the  Three  Saints,  commanded  by  MedvcdnikotT,  was  wrecked 
in  Bering  Bay.  Solomin,  a  native,  complained  to  the  Archi- 
mandrite of  the  breaches  of  faith  and  extortions  of  the 
Company. 

1797.  A  company  in  opposition  to  that  of  Shelikoflf  was  organ- 
ized by  Mylnikoflf  ^£~,  1797  ;  by  consent  of  Mrs.  Shelikoflf 
the  two  were  consolidated.  Archimandrite  Joasaph  had  re- 
turned to  Irkutsk  to  receive  his  consecration  as  bishop. 

1798.  The  Shelikoflf  United  Trading  Company  organized  at 
Irkutsk,  adopted,  January  -J,  a  scries  of  regulations,  and  dis- 
tributed them  to  interested  parties.  A  new  company,  called 
the  Atka  Company,  was  formed  by  Ladygin  and  others,  in 
opposition   to   the   United   Company.     Khwostoflf  explored 


''f 


j 


318 


HISTORY. 


1798.  Admiralty  Bay.  Last6chkin  visited  the  Copper  River  wiili 
great  caution.  A  factory  was  erected  at  Niichck  Harbor. 
A  Siberian  trading  vessel,  in  charge  of  Kfssileflf,  saw  an  island 
between  lat.  43°  and  44°,  and  Ion.  160°  and  165°.  Various 
parties  of  traders  interfered  with  the  operations  of  the  Shc- 
likoff  United  Company. 

1799,  The  ICmperor  Paul,  at  first  strongly  opposed  to  it,  was  in- 
duced to  take  the  trading  company  under  his  protection 
A  charter  for  a  new  company  was  drawn  up  at  St.  Peters- 
burg for  the  term  of  twenty  years.  This  charter  was  issued 
on  the  8th  of  June,  1799.  It  gave  to  the  members  of  tk 
old  Company,  under  the  name  of  the  Kussiati  Avnrican 
Company,  the  control  of  all  the  coasts  of  America  on  tlu 
Pacific  north  of  lat.  55°  N.  They  were  required  to  organizi 
settlements,  promote  agriculture,  commerce,  discovery,  and 
the  propagation  of  the  Greek  Catholic  faith,  to  extend  the 
Russian  territory  and  influence  on  the  Pacific  as  far  as  they 
could  without  trespassing  on  the  territory  of  any  foreign 
power.  The  capital  of  the  Company  was  fixed  at  98,000 
silver  rubles.  The  Aleuts  were  regarded  as  the  servants  or 
slaves  of  the  Company.  They  were  obliged  to  hunt  and 
work  at  the  command  of  it**  officers,  and  each  adult  \va< 
obliged  to  spend  at  least  three  years  in  the  actual  service 
of  the  Company.  They  were  also  forced  to  sell  all  their 
furs  to  the  Company,  at  whatever  price  the  latter  chose  to 
pay  for  them.  The  natives  of  Kenai  and  Chugach  were 
obliged  to  pay  an  annual  tribute  of  furs,  though  not  to  enter 
the  Company's  service,  lianinoff  was  placed  in  charge  of 
the  operations  of  the  Company  in  the  colonies.  The  govern- 
ment of  the  territories  was  confided  to  the  Chief  Director  in 
th^  colonies.  No  appeal  could  be  made  from  him  except  to 
the  Directory  at  Irkutsk.  All  regulations  and  appointments 
were  made  by  the  latter,  and  all  questions  decided  by  it,  with 
the  approval  of  the  Imperial  Department  of  Ccmmerce.  Ah 
persons  and  things  in  the  territory  were  under  the  control 
of  the  Chief  Director,  who  resided  in  Kadiak  ;  other  distriet< 
were  ruled  by  inferior  agents,  chosen  from  among  the  Pro- 
mislleniks,  and  accountable  only  to  the  Chief  Director.  The 
general  regulations  were  just  and  humane,  but  the  enforce- 


HISTORY. 


319 


1799.  ment  of  them  was  intrusted  to  men  with  whom  justice  and 
humanity  were  always  subservient  to  interest  and  expedi- 
ency. HaranofT  maintained  lor  twenty  years  an  ab.solute  and 
despotic  sway  over  the  colonies.  The  orders  of  the  Direc- 
tory were  often  unheeded  by  him,  and  it  was  almost  as  easy 
for  complaints  to  reach  the  Directory  from  another  planet  as 
from  Russian  America.  He  was  a  man  of  iron  energy  and 
nerve,  coarse,  unfeeling,  shrewd,  and  enterprising.  Among 
his  inferior  agents  were  men  far  more  intelligent  and  hu- 
mane than  himself,  but  they  were  obliged  to  submit  to  his 
authority  ;  any  proposed  improvements  were  in  vain,  if  in 
his  judgment  they  conflicted  with  the  interests  of  the  Com- 
pany. The  morale  of  the  Company's  servants  may  be  judged 
from  Krusenstern's  account,  which  says,  "  None  but  vaga- 
bonds and  adventurers  ever  entered  the  Company's  service 
as  Promishlcniks,"  "it  was  their  invariable  destiny  to  pass  a 
life  of  wretchedness  in  America,"  and  "  few  had  the  good 
fortune  ever  to  touch  Russian  soil  again."  His  remarks 
coincide  in  every  particular  with  my  own  observations, 
though  among  the  Creoles,  naval  officers,  and  general  officers 
of  the  Company  at  Sitka  it  was  my  good  fortune  to  meet 
many  gentlemen  of  refinement,  intelligence,  and  a  high  sense 
of  honor  and  justice. 

The  Company's  vessel  Fenie  (Phocni.x),  with  the  newly 
consecrated  bishop  Joasaph,  eighty-eight  passengers,  and  1 
valuable  cargo,  in  charge  of  Captain  Shultz,  was  lost  with 
all  on  board.  Most  of  the  ecclesiastics  were  on  this  vessel, 
and  it  is  said  that  from  this  time  to  i8io  only  one  monk 
was  left  in  the  colonies. 

The  Company's  vessel  St.  Demetrius  was  built  in  Res- 
urrection Bay.  Khwostoff  explored  the  Alexander  Archi- 
pelago, and  obtained  a  large  number  of  sca-ottcr  skins. 
The  same  good  fortune  attended  an  Aleutian  party  who 
visited  George's  Strait.     . 

In  consequence  of  their  reports,  Baranoff  visited  Sitka 
Hay  in  the  Olga,  with  a  large  fleet  of  Aleutians  in  their 
kyaks,  from  Kadidk.  Here  one  hundred  and  fifty  of  them 
died  from  eating  poisonous  mussels.  Baranoff  made  one  of 
the  natives  of  the  bay  a  chief,  under  the  name  of  MedvOd- 


320 


HISTORY. 


B 


1799.  nikofl",  and  set  about  the  construction  of  a  fortified  factory, 
which  he  called  Fort  Archangel  Gabriel. 

1800.  This  was  completed  in  the  following  spring,  when  l^ara- 
nofT  took  formal  possession  of  the  territory  in  the  name  of 
Russia.      This  proceeding  was  approved   of  by  the  Uirccl 
tory.     He  then  returned  to   Kadiak.     luiglish  and  Amcri| 
can  vessels  visited  the  colony  with  assorted  cargoes,  whit!; 
the  Russians  were  obliged  to  purchase  altogether,  good  audi 
bad  as  well,  in  order  to  prevent  independent  trade. 

On  the  i2,  October,  1800,  the  Emperor  Alexander  ordered  I 
the  general  Directory  to  be  tran.sferred  from  Irkutsk  to  .St 
Petersburg ;  only  a  secondary  bureau  was  left  at  Irkutsk. 

1 801.  An  issue  was  authorized  of  7,350  shares  of  stock,  each 
valued  at  500  silver  rubles. 

A  scarcity  of  provisions  compelled  the  Chief  Director  to  I 
purchase  supplies  from  English  and  American  vessels.    An 
American  trader  arrived  at  Kadiak  in   May.      The  vessels! 
Petropdvlovsk  and  Alexander  Nevski  were  built  in  the  col- 
ony.    Troubles  arose  from  among  the  natives.     The  Thlin- 
kets  met  on  one  of  the  islands  of  the  archipolago,  under  | 
their  chief  Kaniagin,  to  devise  means  of  driving  out  the 
Russians.     Baranoff  was  received  with  hostility  by  the  ii.i- 
tives  of  Kenai. 

1802.  The    Emperor,   Empress,  and   (irand   Duke   Constantiiiel 
became   shareholders   in   the   Company  "^J;"^.^"',  1802,  to  the 
extent   of  twenty  shares   each.     The    incon.o  of  this  stock 
was  devoted  to  charity.     In  August,  the  Loan  Bank  of  St 
Petersburg  was   directed   by   a   ukase  to   advance   250,0001 
silver  rubles  to  the   Company,  at   legal   interest,  for  eight  | 
years. 

The  vessel  Zacharias  and  Elisabeth  was  built  in  the  col- 
ony. 

An  expedition  under  Khw6stoff  and  Davidoff  began  scion 
tific  researches  among  the  Aleutian  Islands.  The  monopoly 
of  the  Russian  and  Siberian  fur  trade  was  secured  by  the 
Russian  American  Company.  Active  hostilities  were  com- 
menced by  the  natives.  In  May  the  assembled  Thlinkcts 
of  Sitka,  under  the  chiefs  who  had  been  appointed  by  the 
Russians,  attacked  the  Fort  Archangel  Gabriel  and   drove 


HISTORY. 


32! 


rtificd  factorv 


c    Constantinc 


lilt  in  the  col- 


1802.  out  the  inmates.  All  the  officers  and  thirty  men  were  killcHl. 
Two  (lays  after  the  ICnglish  captain  Harbour  arrived,  and 
saved  eighteen  women,  two  Russians,  and  two  Aleutians, 
who  were  hunted  by  the  savages  in  the  woods.  He  also 
appropriated  the  furs  which  remained  unharmed  in  the 
storehouse,  and  demanded  an  e.xorbitant  ransom  from  the 
Russians  for  the  men.  A  few  days  after  the  American  cap- 
tain Ebbets  arrived,  and  assisted  the  colonists  against  the 
natives.  May  22d,  Kiiskoffs  party  of  four  hundred  and  fifty 
Aleuts,  in  their  kyaks,  was  attacked  in  Yakutat  Hay  by  the 
Thlinkets,  who  were  repulsed.  One  Russian  was  killed 
and  five  wounded.  June  20th  a  fleet  of  ninety  kyaks,  under 
Urbanoff,  were  attacked  by  the  Thlinkets  in  Kake  Strait. 
Only  UrbdnofT  and  twenty-two  Aleutians  escaped. 

The  American  ship  Atahualpa,  of  Hoston,  discovered  the 
mouth  of  the  Stiki'ne  River. 

1803.  An  expedition  under  Kriisenstern  and  Lisiansky  was 
organized  in  St.  Petersburg,  and  sailed  in  the  ships  Xa- 
dcshda  and  Neva  in  August.  In  March,  the  Imperial  Fi- 
nancial Hureau  was  ordered  to  supply  the  Directory  of  the 
Company  with  100,000  silver  rubles,  on  demand,  in  such 
sums  as  might  be  required. 

In  the  colony,  Hazanoff  explored  the  Copper  River  for  a 
short  distance.  An  expedition  under  Petroff  made  further 
explorations  near  Yakutat  Bay.  An  American  named  Owen, 
of  the  bark  Eclipse,  suggested  to  Haninofi'  the  extension  of 
the  fur  trade  to  California.  Owen  secured  the  right  to  pur- 
chase all  the  furs.  In  pursuance  of  this  project  an  ex- 
pedition under  .Swctzoff  and  Terak.inoff  was  sent  to  the 
coast  of  Oregon,  and  returned  with  a  valuable  cargo.  The 
Slavanissi  Colony,  on  Yakutat  Hay,  was  destroyed  by  the 
natives. 

1804.  On  the  loth  of  June,  1804,  Captain  Kriisenstern,  in  the 
Nadeslula,  left  the  Neva  under  Lisiiinsky,  at  the  Washing- 
ton Islands,  and  sailed  with  Resanolt",  the  Imperial  Com- 
missioner, to  Kamchatka,  where  he  arrived  in  July.  They 
attempted  to  open  an  intercourse  with  the  Japanese,  but 
failed,  and  returned  to  Kamchatka. 

The  Neva  arrived   in  Kadiak  July    13,   1804      Lisiansky 


322 


HISTORY. 


1804.  found  that  Raranoflf  had  sailed  for  Sitka  in  the  spring  with 
four  small  vessels,  one  hundred  and  twenty  Russians,  and 
about  eight  hundred  Aleutians  in  their  kyaks.  He  there- 
fore determined  to  sail  to  his  assistance,  and  while  detained 
by  contrary  winds  at  Kadiak  made  various  surveys  in  the 
vicinity.  He  left  St.  Paul  August  15th,  and  arrived  in  Nor- 
folk Sound  on  the  20th.  BaninofT  arrived  on  the  19th,  from 
a  hunting  expedition  to  Yakutat  Hay,  in  the  Yermak.  It 
was  determined  to  attack  the  Thlinkets,  who  had  fortified 
themselves  on  a  rock  near  the  old  settlement,  and  now- 
defied  the  Russians.  On  the  1st  of  October  the  Neva  fired 
upon  the  fort,  and,  no  reply  being  received,  Haranoff  and  a 
party  of  Russians  and  Aleutians  attempted  to  storm  it. 
They  were  repulsed  with  some  loss  by  the  natives,  who 
.sallied  and  drove  them  to  their  boats.  Haranoff  was  wounded 
in  the  arm.  The  ne.xt  day  the  Neva  opened  fire  on  tlic 
fort  with  heavy  guns,  and  on  the  3d  of  October  the  natives 
hoisted  a  white  flag.  The  fort  was  not  surrendered,  how- 
ever, but  was  evacuated  by  the  natives  on  the  night  of 
the  6th.  They  are  said  by  Lisiansky  to  have  killed  a  num- 
ber of  infants  and  dogs,  lest,  by  making  a  noise,  they  .should 
give  the  alarm.  The  garrison  was  estimated  to  have  been 
about  eight  hundred  ;  the  walls  of  the  fort  were  so  thick 
that  the  shot  from  the  Neva  had  not  penetrated  them.  It 
was  defended  by  two  cannon,  and  evidently  evacuated  be- 
cause the  occupants  were  out  of  ammunition.  On  the  8th 
of  October  it  was  burned  by  order  of  liaranoft".  The  Rus- 
sians had  ten  or  twelve  killed,  and  several  wounded. 

On  the  loth  of  November,  Lisiansky  sailed  for  Kadidk, 
leaving  Baninoff  at  .Sitka.  The  Neva  ancnored,  November 
1 6th,  in  St.  Paul  Harbor,  where  she  wintered.  This  vessel 
brought  the  first  supply  of  medicine  which  reached  the 
colony. 

ResanoflT,  the  Imperial  Commissioner  for  the  redress  of 
grievances  and  the  better  regulation  of  the  colonies,  arrived 
from  Kamchatka  and  wintered  in  Kadiak.  The  St.  Deme- 
trius was  wrecked  near  Umnak.  Three  vessels  —  the  Maria, 
the  St.  Mary  Magdalene,  and  the  cutter  Constantine — were 
built  in  the  colony.     On  the  8th  of  October,  Baranofif  laiil 


HISTORY. 


323 


Asians,  and 


1804.  the  foundations  of  the  new  fort  at  Sitka.  He  calls  it  the 
Fort  Archangel  Michael,  and  the  settlement  received  the 
name  of  New  Archangel.  It  was  placed  on  the  rocky  point 
which  had  been  so  well  defeniled  by  the  natives. 

1805.  Lewis  and  Clarke  descended  the  Coiiimbiu  River,  and 
wintered  near  the  mouth  of  it. 

On  the  14th  of  June,  Lisiansky  sailed  frotn  Kadiak  for 
Sitka,  where  he  arrived  on  the  22d,  and  whence,  afli-r  mak- 
ing various  e.xploration.s,  he  .sailed,  September  ist,  for  Canton. 
A  hunter  named  Hukadoroff,  employed  by  the  Company 
among  the  inlands,  was  attacked  by  the  natives.  The  ex- 
periment of  planting  treei  on  the  Aleutian  Islands  was  tried 
this  year.  An  expedition  under  Demiankoff  was  obliged  to 
leave  Yiikutat  Hay  by  the  hostile  natives ;  in  the  storm 
which  followed,  thirty  Aleutians  were  lost  in  their  bidarkas. 
The  natives  attacked  a  settlement  on  the  bay,  and  massa- 
cred the  inhabitants  ;  out  of  forty  persons  only  thirteen 
escaped.  At  this  time  four  hundred  and  seventy  Russians 
were  employed  in  different  capacities  by  the  Company. 

The  Imperial  Chamberlain  and  Comniission<;r,  Count  Ni- 
kolai I'etrovich  Resanoff,  maugurated  many  useful  reforms  in 
the  colony.  Notwithstanding  the  unjust  slurs  of  the  usually 
accurate  Greenhow,  Resanoff  was  a  man  of  unusual  capacity, 
intelligence,  and  humanity.  He  organized  a  school  at  Ka- 
diak under  the  name  of  the  "House  of  Henevolence  of  the 
lunpress  Maria."  His  reforms  and  instructions  much  im- 
proved the  prospects  of  the  colony.  He  suggested  a  court 
in  the  territory  for  the  trial  of  minor  otfences,  and  ordered 
that  the  Aleutians  shoulil  receive  their  pay  in  money,  and 
not  in  merchandise,  as  formerly.  I'riiitetl  parchment,  with 
the  Company's  seal  upon  it,  was  used  as  a  medium  of  ex- 
change in  the  colony  instead  of  coin. 

In  the  autumn,  Resanoff,  urged  by  the  .scarcity  of  provis- 
ions, purchased  the  American  ship  Juno,  of  Rhode  Island, 
and  her  cargo.  This  alone  prevented  a  famine  in  the  Rus- 
sian settlements.  He  embarked  in  the  Juno  and  sailed  to 
San  Francisco,  where  he  hoped  to  make  arrangements  with 
the  Spanish  authorities  for  an  annual  supply  of  provisions. 
He  examined  the  coast  for  a  suitable  locality  for  settlement, 
on  his  wav. 


i 


324 


HISTORY. 


1805.  lie  was  at  first  received  with  coolness  by  the  Spanish 
Governor,  Don  Luis  dc  Arj;uello.  The  latter  had  a  dau<;hter 
named  Donna  Conception,  who  was  remarkably  beautiful. 
The  polished  manners,  manly  beauty,  accomplishments,  and 
intellif;ence  of  Resanoff  did  not  fail  to  make  an  impression 
on  her.  Resanoff  was  ecpially  struck  by  the  beauty,  inno- 
cence, and  simple  grace  of  the  Spanish  maiilen.  lie  did  not 
conceal  his  love,  and  they  were  betrothed.  After  this,  it 
may  be  imagined  that  the  old  (iovernor  listened  to  Resa- 
noffs  plans  with  more  complacency,  and  an  arrangement 
was  entered  into  as  he  had  proposed. 

1806.  lie  sailed  for  Sitka  in  June,  180C,  leaving  his  betrothed 
with  the  assurance  of  his  return  as  soon  as  he  could  obtain 
the  imperial  consent  to  the  marriage.  He  arrived  at  Sitka 
safely  and  concluded  his  business.  Too  impatient  to  wait 
for  the  provision  ships,  and  undertake  another  voyage 
around  the  world,  he  sailed  for  Kamchatka,  intending  to 
make  the  journey  overland,  through  Siberia,  to  St.  I'eters- 
burg. 

Baranoff,  who  had  looked  with  contempt  on  the  reforms 
which  Resanoff  had  instituted,  lost  no  time  in  restoring,  as 
far  as  he  could,  the  old  condition  of  things  ;  and  the  same 
exactions  and  injustice  continued  to  mark  his  whole  admin- 
istration. He  concluded  an  agreement  with  Charles  Camp- 
bell to  share  in  a  hunting  expedition  to  California,  which 
proved  very  successful.  Several  similar  cxj)edilions  were 
fitted  out,  and  among  them  one  in  the  American  vessel 
Windship.  The  first  vessels  were  built  at  Sitka  during  this 
year.  The  volcano  of  Joduita  I'^ogosiova  (St.  John  the  Theo- 
logian) rose  from  the  sea  on  the  ist  of  May. 

In  St.  Petersburg  the  Government  Financial  Bureau  was 
ordered  to  credit  the  Company  to  the  extent  of  200,000 
silver  rubles,  A  special  Hag  (the  Russian  mercantile  flag, 
with  the  addition  of  a  double-headed  black  eagle)  was 
granted  to  the  Company,  and  naval  officers  were  permitted 
to  enroll  themselves  in  the  Company's  service. 

Simon  I-'ra/.er,  of  the  Northwest  Company's  service,  estab- 
lished a  trading-post  on  Frazer  Lake,  in  lat.  54''. 

1807.  Resanoff,  overcome  by  the  exposure  and  fatigue  of  a  Si- 


HISTOKV. 


325 


1807.  bcrian  winter  journey,  died  March  isf,  at  Krasnoyarsk  in 
Siberia,  on  his  way  to  St.  IV-tcrsburg.  So  ended  the  hfe  of 
the  most  inteUigent  and  skilful  reformer  wlu)  had  yet  visited 
Russian  America.  It  is  related  that  his  betrothed,  who  did 
not  know  of  his  death,  at  least  for  many  years  continued 
constant  and  expectant,  refusinj;  many  offers  of  marria>;e. 
Many  years  after,  when  Americans  first  settled  in  Califor- 
nia, and  she  had  become  an  oUI  woman,  she  was  still  fiithful 
to  her  love,  and  daily  scanned  the  CioUlen  Gate  for  his  ap- 
proaching vessel. 

The  sloop  of  war  Diana,  in  charge  of  ("iol()fnin  and  Ricord, 
left  Cronstadt  on  a  voyage  to  Kamchatka  and  Japan.  The 
brig  Sitka  was  built  in  Norfolk  Souml  by  an  .American 
named  Lincoln.  The  American  vessel  Derby,  Captain  Swift, 
arrived  at  Kadiak  from  Canton. 

Seventy  kyaks,  in  charge  of  ICremin,  sent  to  Chatham 
Strait,  were  driven  away  by  the  Thiinkels. 

The  Company's  ship  Neva,  Captain  Ilagenmeister,  arrived 
at  Kadiak  from  OchcUsk  with  provisions. 

1808.  Timothcus  Tarakanoff  and  Hiilegin  visited  the  northwest 
coast  in  the  Company's  sloop  St.  Nikolai. 

The  frecjuent  complaints  which  were  made  against  Hani- 
noff  induced  the  Directory  to  send  out  Koch  to  succeed 
him  as  Chief  Director  in  the  colonies  ;  but  Koch  died  in 
Kamchatka  in   1808,  while  on  his  way. 

The  Company's  tender,  Avos,  was  lost  near  l^ialashka. 
Kuskoff  was  sent,  with  two  vessels  loaded  with  rum,  to  trac'" 
at  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia.  In  returning,  the  Kadiak 
arrived  safely  at  Sitka,  but  the  St.  Nikolai  was  lost.  Captain 
Krse,  of  the  Mercury,  made  a  contract  witii  Haninoff  to 
carry  a  hunting  and  trading  cxjiedition  to  the  same  place, 
and  returned  with  a  valuable  cargo.  In  March  an  expedi- 
tion of  one  hundred  bidarkas,  escorted  by  two  armed  vessels, 
endeavored  unsuccessfully  to  induce  the  Thlinkets  to  trade 
with  the  Russians. 

A  conspiracy,  headed  by  Naplakotr  and  Popoff,  was  di- 
vulged by  Lcshi'nski.  The  plan  was  to  kill  Haranoff,  take 
one  of  the  vessels  and  provision  her,  and  sail  with  a  number 
of  women  to  some  of  the  South  Sea  islands.    The  conspir- 


326 


HISTORY. 


ilKl 


iiiiii 


1808.  ators  were  arrested,  and  two  years  afterwards  Raranoff  re- 
ceived instructions  to  judj^e  them  in  the  colony,  without  any 
public  demonstration.  It  may  well  be  doubted  if  his  justice 
was  tenjpered  with  mercy. 

A  proposition  was  made  to  Spain,  by  the  Directory,  to 
purchase  a  small  piece  of  land  in  California,  suitable  for  an 
agricultural  colony.     It  was,  however,  rejected. 

1809.  A  new  conspiracy  among  the  natives  to  destroy  the  Rus- 
sians was  revealed  by  a  native  woman.  An  application  was 
made  to  the  Directory  by  thirty-seven  Russians,  who  desired 
to  settle  permanently  in  the  colony.  VVasilieff  described  the 
west  coast  of  Baranoll  Island,  and  several  of  the  adjacent 
islands. 

Peter  Shydekin,  a  native,  renewed  the  protest  against 
the  exactions  of  the  Company.  The  Thlinkets  attacked  a 
hunting  party  among  the  islands.  The  Discovery,  306 
tons,  and  the  Chi'rikoff,  120  tons,  were  built  by  Lincoln  at 
Sitka. 

1810.  John  Jacob  Astor  forme/i  an  association  in  New  York 
under  the  name  of  th'j  Pacific  Fur  Company,  and  fitted  out 
the  ship  Tonquin,  Captain  Thorne,  for  the  mouth  of  the 
Columbia  River.  He  had  the  previous  year  despatched  the 
.ship  Enterprise,  Captain  Ebbets,  whicli  arrived  in  Sitka  in 
July,  1810. 

Captain  W'asili  M.  Golofnin  reached  Sitka  in  the  sloop 
of  war  Diana,  June  10th.  He  brought  a  priest,  the  first  who 
had  arrived  in  the  colony  since  the  wreck  of  the  Phtcnix. 

A  ship  and  brig  were  built  at  Sitka,  making  seventeen 
vessels  constructed  in  the  colony  since   1799- 

In  May  an  expedition,  under  Kiiskotlf,  among  the  islands, 
was  obliged  to  return,  from  the  hostility  of  the  natives, 
who  were  assisted  by  Captain  Gale,  of  an  American  trading 
vessel.  Eight  of  the  Aleutians  were  killed.  The  govern- 
ment vessel  was  allowed  to  take  the  furs  to  Ochotsk  from 
the  colony.  A  party  of  Russians  on  St.  Matthew  Island  were 
nearly  all  starved  to  death  during  the  winter,  by  the  disappear- 
ance of  the  sea  animals,  on  which  they  relied  for  subsistence. 

Ricord  and  Khlebnikoff  explored  and  named  the  She- 
likoff  Strait,  between  Alidska  and  Kadiak. 


HISTORY. 


327 


i.Sii.  In  Janunry,  Mr.  A.stor  despatched  the  second  detachmeiU 
of  traders,  under  Wilson  1'.  Hunt,  to  descend  the  Cohnubia 
River.  On  the  24lh  of  March  tlie  Toiuiuin  arrived  at  the 
mouth  of  the  Cohuubia,  and  the  settlement  of  Astoria  was 
built.  In  October  the  ship  Mcaver,  Captain  .Sowles,  left  New 
York  with  another  party  of  traders  for  Astoria.  An  a;;ent 
was  also  sent  to  .St.  Petersburg  to  negotiate  with  the  Direc- 
tory of  the  Russian  American  Company. 

In  January,  Kuskoff,  on  the  second  expedition  to  Cali- 
fornia, was  refused  water  by  the  Spanish  authorities  at  San 
I'rancisco.  He  therefore  removed  his  vessel  to  the  north- 
ward, and  bought  a  small  tract  of  land  from  the  natives  on 
Hodega  Hay.  A  river  f.dling  into  the  bay  was  named  the 
Slavianka,  October  ~,  a  convention  between  John  Jacob 
Astor  and  the  Russian  American  Company  was  a|)pro\  d 
by  the  ICmperor  Alexander  I.  Astor  agreed  to  furnish  ,yro- 
visions  and  supplies  li  fixed  prices,  and  to  take  pay  in  furs 
from  the  Company.  They  were  to  mutually  assist  each  other 
against  smu„„iers,  and  respect  each  other's  hunting-grounds. 
Astor  was  to  take  the  Company's  furs  to  Canton  at  a  fixtxl 
price  for  freight,  and  sell  them  on  commission.  Hoth  agreed 
not  to  sell  intoxicating  liquors  to  the  natives.  This  arrange- 
ment was  broken  up  by  the  subsequent  war  between  ICng- 
lanil  and  the  United  .States.  The  shipTonquin  was  attacked 
by  the  natives  near  the  .Straits  of  Fuca,  and  blown  up  by 
those  on  board. 

David  Thompson,  of  the  Northwest  Company,  descended 
the  north  branch  of  the  Colund)ia  to  Astoria. 

1812.  David  Stuart,  of  the  Pacific  Fur  Company,  accompanied 
Thompson  on  his  return,  and  establishetl  a  trading-jiost  on  a 
branch  of  the  Upper  Columbia.  The  Heaver  arrived  at 
Astoria  on  the  5th  of  May. 

Hunt  and  his  party,  after  great  suflerings,  nached  Astoria 
early  in  the  year  ;  many  of  them  had  perished  frt)m  desti- 
tution and  privation.  Hunt  sailed  for  .Sitka  in  the  Heaver, 
and  concluded  negotiations  with  l^aninoff.  which  were  some- 
what interfered  with  by  the  potations  of  the  la;  jr.  Hunt 
then  sailed  for  the  Sandwich  Islands,  and  the  Heaver  pro- 
ceeded to  Canton. 


1 


'm 

•HI 


If 


III 


•\ 


n  m 


m  ^^^ ' 


i  Hll 


M 


728 


HISTORY. 


18 1 2.  TIic  first  Russian  settlement  in  California  was  made  on 
Bodega  Bay  by  Kiiskoft!  This  was  done  with  the  concur- 
rence of  the  Spanish  Government,  though  against  the  wishes 
of  the  Roman  Catholic  missionaries.  On  the  30th  of  August, 
Kiiskoft"  removed  the  settlement  to  a  hill  one  hundred  and 
ten  feet  high,  near  the  Slavianka  River.  This  was  named 
the  Russian  (Koss)  Settlement,  and  the  inhabitants  were 
principally  devoted  to  agriculture  and  drying  the  meat  of 
the  wilil  cattle.  Wheat  was  raised  here  and  sent  to  Sitka, 
and  a  small  trade  was  carried  on  with  the  natives.  The 
Spaniards  regarded  it  with  a  great  deal  of  hostility,  and  inter- 
fered with  the  operations  of  the  Russians  as  much  as  possible. 

i8!3.  Robert  Stuart,  who  had  left  Astoria  when  Hunt  sailed 
for  Sitka,  reached  New  York  in  the  spring,  after  a  severe 
journey  across  the  continent.  In  June  the  ship  Albatross, 
of  Boston,  arrived  at  the  Sandwich  Islands,  bringing  the 
news  cf  the  war  with  Great  Britain,  and  also  that  the  Beaver 
was  blockaded  in  Canton  by  a  British  vessel.  Hunt  sailed 
in  the  former  for  Astoria,  and  then  proceeded  again  to  the 
Sandwich  Islands  after  a  vessel  to  convey  the  Pacific  Com- 
pany's property  to  a  place  of  safety. 

Meanwhile  a  British  squadron  had  been  sent  to  destroy 
the  settlement  at  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia  River,  ami 
Mactavish,  of  the  Northwest  Company,  arrived  at  Astoria 
to  meet  it.  A  sale  was  effected  by  the  agent  of  the  Pacific 
Company,  by  which  the  property  was  transferred  to  the 
Northwest  Company  for  $58,000,  on  the  i6lh  of  October, 
1813.  A  short  time  after,  the  British  sloop  of  war  Raccoon 
arrived  to  destroy  the  American  post,  and,  finding  it  was 
sold,  formally  hoisted  the  British  flag  and  changed  the  name 
to  I'ort  George.  The  ship  Lark  had  been  despatched  to 
Astoria  in  March,  but  was  wrecked  on  the  Sandwich  Islands. 
Baranoff's  star  still  continued  in  the  ascendant.  The 
ship  Neva,  Captain  Podushkin,  from  Ochotsk,  was  wrecked 
near  Sitka  on  the  -^,  of  January.  But  twenty-five  of  the 
crew  were  saved,  while  Barono-wolokoti,  who  had  been  sent 
to  supersede  Baninoff,  was  lost  with  thirty-seven  men.  The 
Company's  vessel,  Alexander  Nevski,  was  wrecked  on  the 
Kurile  Islands,  but  no  lives  were  lost.     The  Thlinkets,  while 


.  ^ 


■  1 


HISTORY. 


329 


I  was  made  on 
ith  the  concur- 
linst  the  wishes 
30th  of  August, 
0  hundred  and 
his  was  named 
(habitants  were 
ig  the  meat  of 
[  sent  to  Sitka, 
:  natives.  The 
tility,  and  inter- 
luch  as  possible. 
;n  Hunt  sailed 
after  a  severe 
ship  Albatross, 
s,  bringing  the 
that  the  Heaver 
1.  Hunt  sailed 
h1  again  to  the 
le  Pacific  Coni- 

sent  to  destroy 

bia    River,  ami 

'ed  at  Astoria 

of  the  Pacific 

isferred   to   the 

ith  of  October, 

war  Raccoon 

finding  it   was 

ngcd  the  name 

desi^atchcd  to 

ndwich  Islands. 

cendant.     The 

V,  was  wrecked 

nty-five  of  the 

had  been  sent 

^cn  men.     1  he 

recked  on   the 

lilinkets,  while 


4 
i 

■  \\ 


1S13.  endeavoring  to  excite  other  natives  against  the  colony, 
were  attacked  and  defeated.  The  Company's  vessel  Suwar- 
row  arrived  with  the  annual  supply  of  provisions  from  St. 
Petersburg,  in  charge  of  Michael  Petrovich  Lasareft". 

1814.  In  February,  Hunt,  in  the  brig  Pedler,  arrived  at  Astoria 
from  the  Sandwich  Islands.  After  closing  the  concerns  of 
the  Pacific  Company  he  embarked  for  Canton.  On  the  24th 
of  December  the  treaty  of  peace  between  the  United  States 
and  Great  Britain  was  signed  at  Ghent. 

A  special  commission  for  the  examination  of  the  affairs 
of  the  Russian  American  Company  was  ordered  at  St. 
Petersburg. 

Paninofr,  preserving  in  his  old  age  the  audacity  of  his 
joiith,  was,  however,  already  less  fortunate  in  his  under- 
takings. He  pmchased  three  American  vessels,  —  the  He- 
ring,  the  Trevor,  and  the  Ilmen.  The  Trevor  proved  unsea- 
worthy.  An.xious  to  establish  a  trade  with  the  Sandwich 
Islands,  and  well  aware  of  their  growing  importance,  Hara- 
noff  sent  the  Bering  to  negotiate  with  the  native  monarch, 
at  his  invitation.  The  vessel  was  lost  on  Atuia  Island  of 
the  Sandwich  group. 

1815.  On  the  i8th  of  July,  1815,  Mr.  Monroe,  Secretary  of 
State,  announced  to  the  British  representative  at  Washing- 
ton that  the  United  States  intended  to  reoccupy  imme- 
diately the  post  of  Astoria,  in  virtue  of  the  first  article  of 
the  treaty  of  Ghent. 

The  brig  Rurik  was  fitted  out  by  the  liberality  of  Count 
Romanzoff,  Counsellor  of  State.  She  sailed  from  St.  Peters- 
burg early  in  the  year,  in  charge  of  Lieutenant  Otto  von 
Kotzebue,*  accompanied  by  Choris,  Ivscholtz,  Chamisso,  and 
other  savcxiis. 

An  expedition  in  the  Discovery  induced  the  Thlinkets  to 
trade  for  the  first  time  since  the  massacres.  The  price  paid 
for  furs  was  raised  in  Kivor  of  the  hunters,  tlie  old  rate 
being  very  low.  Intercourse  with  the  Sandwich  Islands 
was  again  attempted.  Dr.  l-llliott,  an  American,  sent  on 
the  Ilmen  to  the  Ross  .Settlement,  was  seized  and  held  pris- 
oner as  a  Russian  spy,  by  the  Spanish  authorities. 

•  Son  of  .August   l''ric(lii(.h  Fcrdinaiul  von  Kot/cl)Uc,  tlic  cclebr.itcd  .luthor.     lie 
wa>Uin  at  Ucvcl,  Dcceiuber  19,  1787,  and  died  there  February  13,  1S46. 


330 


HISTORY. 


Ki^r 


I'i .' 


it  'f! 


tli:l 


;; 


III 


'"!  iiili 


1816.  Kotzcbue  left  Pelropavlovsk,  in  the  Rurik,  July  i8tli, 
landed  on  St.  Lawrence  Island  July  27th,  passed  through 
Bering  Strait  on  the  31st,  and  on  the  3d  of  August  entered 
and  proceeded  to  explore  the  Sound  which  bears  his  name. 
He  left  it  on  the  14th,  passed  a  little  way  to  the  north- 
ward, and  then  sailed  for  Unalashka. 

The  hunting  during  this  year  was  unfortunate  and  un- 
profitable. Explorations  north  of  Cook's  Inlet  were  ordered 
by  the  Company.  The  vessel  Mary  Magdalene  was  wrecked 
near  Ochotsk,  but  the  cargo  of  furs  was  saved.  Uaranoft 
sent  the  vessel  Isabella  on  a  voyage  to  the  Philippine  Isl- 
ands. Father  Solokoft'  arrived  at  Sitka  from  Moscow,  and 
took  charge  of  the  colonial  churches.  The  keels  of  ei<;b'i 
vessels  were  laid  during  the  year.  Hagenmeister  sailed 
from  Cronstadt  with  two  vessels,  September  3d,  for  the 
colonics. 

18 1 7.  Captain  Biddle,  in  the  sloop-of-war  Ontario,  was  sent  to 
the  mouth  of  the  Columbia.  Kotzcbue  visited  the  Aleutian 
Islands.  The  schooners  Platoff  and  Baranoff  were  built 
in  the  colony.  i 

On   ''""'"■'  -,  the   fourth   expedition  from  St.   Petersbur 
with  provisions  arrived  at  Sitka  in  the  Kutusoflf  and  Suwar-  [ 
row.     Baninoft",  feeling  that  the  chills  of  age  were  cooling 
the  current  of  his  blood,  worn  out  with  twenty-seven  years 
service  to  the  Company,  voluntarily  offered  his  resignation 
in  December. 

Golofnin's  second  expedition  with  Liitke,  Wrangell,  and 
l*tolin,  was  organized  in  St.  Petersburg. 

Camille  de  Rocquefeuil  entered  on  his  journey  round  thi 
world,  in  which  he  visited  many  parts  of  the  northwest  coast  f. 

October  6th,  Astoria  was  delivered  to  J.  B.  Prevost,  agent 
for  the  United  States,  by  the  captain  of  the  British  frigate  t 
Blossom.     Alexander  A.   Baranoff  sailed  for  Batavia  fron;!; 
Sitka  in  the  .ship  Kiitusoff. 

1818.  January  -,  Captain  Leontius  Andrianovich  Hagenmeister 
assumed  the  duties  of  Chief  Director  of  the  colonics.  Febru- 
ary 20th  he  ordered  that  the  hunters  should  receive  an  an- 
nual salary  instead  of  being  paid  in  merchandise  as  formerly. 
He  was  obliged  to  use  severe  measures  to  restrain  the  dc|> 


HISTORY. 


331 


Lurik,  July    i8th,  B81 
,  passed  through 
f  August  entered 
bears  his  name, 
ay  to  the  north- 


nrtunate  and  un- 

nlct  were  ordered  ] 

lenc  was  wrecked  : 

saved,     liaranoli  ? 

ic  Philippine  Isl-  i 

rom  Moscow,  and  j 

he   keels  of  eight  ^ 

gennieister   sailed  : 
mber   3d,  for  the 

tario,  was  sent  to 
sited  the  Aleutian 
iranoff  were   built  \ 


m  St.   Petersburg  f  §8 1 
tusoff  and  Suwar-  r 
age  were  cooling  i 
vcnty-seven  years  ■ 
ed  his  resignation 

ic,  Wrangell,  ami 


ourney  round  thi. 
e  northwest  coast 
B.  Prevost,  agent 
le  British  frigate 
for  Batavia  froir, 


ich  Hagenmeistcr 
colonies.    Fcbru- 
aid  receive  an  anp 
mdise  as  formerly 
restrain  the  dcp-  f 


8.  redations  of  the  natives.  An  American  vessel  was  bought 
and  named  the  Golofnin.  June  £,  Vasili  Michaelovich  Go- 
lofnin,  Imperial  Commissioner  for  the  redresi^  of  abuses,  ar- 
rived in  Kadiak.  On  the  3d  of  December,  Hagenmeistcr 
resigned  in  favor  of  Lieutenant  Janoffsky,  and  returned  to 
Russia.  Golofnin  was  instructed  to  report  on  the  state  of 
tiic  Russian  territories  in  America. 

I'stingoff,  Kcirsakofil",  and  Kolmakoff  were  sent  to  examine 
the  shores  of  Bristol  Bay.  Korsakoff  crossed  Aliaska  from 
Cook's  Inlet  on  foot,  examined  the  coast  northeast  of  it, 
left  a  party  at  Nushergak  and  travelled  along  the  coast 
until  he  met  Ustingoffs  vessel,  which  took  him  round  Cape 
Ncwenham,  and  into  Kuskoqiiim  Bay.  Winter  coming  on, 
he  returned  to  Nushergak,  where  Kolmakoff  had  built  a 
furl,  which  has  been  kept  up  ever  since.      Here  he  wintered. 

In  this  year  the  spirit  of  enterprise,  dormant  in  England 
since  the  day  of  Cook  and  Vancouver,  appeared  to  awake. 
The  Arctic  expeditions  of  Ross,  Franklin,  Parry,  Richard- 
son, and  Back  are  too  well  known  to  need  explanation. 
None,  however,  visited  the  North   Pacific. 

9.  The  exploring  vessels  Discovery,  Good  Intent,  Western, 
and  Peace,  fitted  out  at  St.  Petersburg  for  a  voyage  of  dis- 
covery, under  Wasfiieff,  Shi'shmareff,  Bellingshausen,  and 
Lazereff. 

Klimofisky  attempted  to  explore  the  Copper  River.  I'^s- 
tingoff  described  Goodnews  Bay.  Janoffsky  made  official 
visits  to  Kadiak,  UnaUishka,  and  the  Pri'byloff  Islands.  A 
brig  called  the  Biildakoff  was  built  in  the  Californian  set- 
tlement. The  Spanish  scnooner  Fortuna,  discovered  ashore, 
with  seven  natives  of  the  Sandwich  Islands  on  board,  was 
taken  as  a  prize  by  the  Company's  vessels.  On  the  f^ 
A[)ril,  Captain  Alexander  Andreavich  Baninoff  died  at  Ba- 
tavia on  his  way  home  to  Russia.  He  was  about  eighty 
years  old,  and  is  said  by  Denys  to  have  died  without  leav- 
ing any  property,  in  spite  of  his  long  and  active  career. 

Golofnin's  report  having  reached  St.  Petersburg,  the  Em- 
peror determined  to  put  an  end  to  the  mismanagement  of 
the  colonies,  and  curb  the  exactions  of  the  traders.  On 
the  8th  of  July,  regulations  were  put  in  force  by  which  the 


ill! 


Mil, 


1 


m: 


■'}^ 


332 


HISTORY. 


1 8 19.  Chief  Director  became  directly  responsible  to  the  crown  t  • 
any  misdemeanor,  and  the  condition  of  the  colonies  \v„ 
greatly  improved.  The  death  of  Har;inoff  rendered  the  intn- 
duction  of  these  reforms  less  difficult,  and  the  subseqiicr 
direction  of  the  colonies  has  been  generally  committed  t 
honorable  and  enlightened  officers,  under  whose  guidaiu 
the  abuses,  formerly  prevailing  to  so  great  an  extent,  hav:;* 
been  removed  or  much  abated. 

In  1819  the  Company  had  settlements  on  five  of  ti,: 
Aleutian  Islands,  four  on  Cook's  Inlet,  two  on  Chugach  (in;;. 
and  one  on  Haranoff  Island,  Sitka  Hay. 

1820.  Captain  Muravietil'  succeeded  Janoffsky  as  Chief  Directc 
of  the  colonies.  The  liorodino  arrived  at  Sitka  under  Captai:, 
I'onafidin  with  merchandise  from  Russia.  Schmidt  was  ap- 
pointed Director  of  the  Ross  Colony.  The  bay  of  Bode-: 
had  received  the  name  of  Roman/off,  from  the  Russian> 
The  Ross  settlement,  according  to  Helchcr,  presented  a  quae 
rilateral  of  twenty-five  metres  in  length.  It  contained  housci 
for  the  Director  and  officers,  an  arsenal,  a  barrack  for  [h 
men,  storehouses,   and   .1  Creek   chapel  surmounted  with . 

,  cross,  and  provided  with  a  chime  of  bells.  The  stockati; 
was  four  metres  in  height,  pierced  with  embrasures  furnished 
with  carronades.  At  opposite  corners  were  two  bastion- 
two  stories  high,  and  furnished  with  six  pieces  of  artillcn 
The  gardens  were  very  extensive,  and  large  quantities  c: 
wheat  were  raised,  and  sent  to  the  northern  establishments. 
Kolmakoff  explored  the  Kuskoquim  River.  The  e.xpd; 
tion  under  Wasi'lieflf  arrived  in  the  North  Pacific.  The  Ui- 
covery  went  to  Petropavlov.sk  ;  the  Good  Intent  visited  tl 
Aleutian  Islands,  afterwards  passing  through  Bering  Stra; 
as  far  as  Icy  Cape,  and,  returning,  described  the  island  c: 
Nunivak.  Dokhteroff  sailed  for  the  colonics  from  Cronstai!; 
The  first  regularly  resident  physician  was  settled  in  tl;. 
colony.  In  this  year,  Wrangell  and  his  party  commence: 
their  explorations  in  northeastern  Siberia. 

182 1.  ;'^<"'™i"-'  the  charter  of  the  Russian  American  Comijanv 
was  renewed  for  twenty  years  by  the  order  of  the  Empcro: 
The  Senate,  by  ukase,  reorganized  the  Company.  The  Km- 
peror  also  issued  a  ukase,  in  which  the  whole  west  coast  of 


; 


HISTORY. 


333 


on   five  of  thj 


[821.  North  America,  nortli  of  the  51st  parallel,  and  the  east 
coast  of  Asia  north  of  45°  50',  was  declared  Russian  territory, 
and  foreigners  were  prohibited  from  approaching  within  one 
huiulred  miles  of  the  coast,  except  when  in  distress.  The 
British  government  protested  against  this  decree  as  soon  as 
it  was  issued,  and  the  United  States  did  the  same  as  soon 
as  official  information  of  it  was  received  from  the  Russian 
government.  The  Russian  authorities  sent  cruisers  to  en- 
force the  ukase,  and  the  brig  Pearl,  of  Boston  for  Sitka,  was 
seized.  The  result  was  the  convention  between  the  United 
States  and  Russia  in  1824.  The  vessels  sent  to  the  west 
coast  by  Russia  were  the  sloop  of  war  Apollo,  under  Tulii- 
bieff,  captain  of  the  first  rank  ;  and  the  brig  Ajax,  under  Phi- 
latoff,  captain  of  the  second  rank.  The  Ajax  was  wrecked 
on  her  way  out,  and,  Tulubieff  dying,  the  command  of  the 
Apollo  fell  upon  Lieutenant  Krushchoff  (or  Krutzoff). 

The  brigs  Rurik  and  l*}lisabeth,  under  KlochkofT  and 
Kislakoffsky,  arrived  in  the  colony,  with  merchandise  from 
Russia,  on  the  5th  of  September.  They  brought  three  eccle- 
siastics. 

|S:2.  The  exploring  expedition  under  Kramchenko,  Pttolin,  and 
Wasilieff  sailed  in  the  ships  Golofnin  and  Baninolf.  They 
examined  the  coasts  of  Norton  Sound,  Bristol  Bay,  and  the 
island  of  Nunivak,  describing  Golofnina  Bay  and  Golovi'n 
Sound.  The  expedition  continued  during  two  years.  Sha- 
bclsky  visited  the  colonies.  Captain-Lieutenant  Andreas 
IVtrovich  Lazerefif  and  M.  P.  Lazereff,  captain  of  the  second 
rank,  sailed  for  the  colonies  and  the  Californian  coast  in 
the  frigate  Cruiser  and  the  .sloop  Ladoga.  They  returned  to 
St.  Petersburg  in  1824. 

I823.  Lieutenant  ^''^•^o  Von  Kotzebue  sailed  on  his  second 
journey  round  the  world  in  the  sloop  Enterprise. 

The  Nearer  Islands,  which,  under  the  name  of  the  .'^tka 
District,  had  been  included  in  the  government  of  Ochotsk, 
were  surrendered  to  the  Colonial  Direction. 

Father  Frument  Mordoffski  was  sent  as  missionary  to 
Kadiak.  The  Ladoga  visited  Sitka  in  November.  Hogs 
wore  placed  on  a  barren  island  near  the  Ch(5rnobour  Reef. 
Kramchenko  visited  Yakutat  Bay. 


334 


HISTORY. 


III! 


illHll 
iiiii'l 

I 


it! 


i 


S-'l 


1823.  The  calling  of  a  convention,  to  settle  the  boundary  cjucv 
tion  between  Russian  and  American  territory  on  the  wi. 
coast,  was  made  the  occasion,  by  the  President  of  the  Unite 
States,  for  a  declaration  of  the  Monroe  doctrine,  which  dt 
laycd  a  settlement. 

1824.  The  convention  between   the  United  States  and  Riis;. 
was  signed  at  St.   Petersburg,  April  ^,  1824.     It  provid.; 
that  the  North  Pacific   should  be  open  to  citizens  of  be 
nations  for  fishing,  trading,  and  navigation,  except  that  t: 
trading-posts  of  either  of  the  contracting  parties  should  1. 
be  visited  by  subjects  of  the  other  party  without  the  consc: 
of  the  officer  in  command.     The  Russians  were  not  to  niali 
any  settlements  south  of  latitude  54°  40',  nor  the  America: 
any  north  of  that  parallel.     It  was  provided,  that,  at  the  cr 
of  ten  years,  the  liberty  to  navigate  the  Russian  waters  ar:  ] 
trade  with  the  natives  might  be  abrogated  by  Russia,  and ; 
no  case  were  arms,  ammunition,  or  liquor  to  be  sold  to  !' 
natives.     The  brig  Pearl  was  released,  and  the  owners  i:; 
demnified.     Lieutenants  Chi'stakoff  and  Murdvieff  sailed 
the  Company's  ship  Helen  from  Cronstadt  for  the  colonit 
Kotzebue  reached  Sitka  August  i?,  in  the  Enterprise.     Mk 
and   Blanchard,  American   traders,   arrived  at   Sitka  fro: 
Boston.    Kriishchoff  explored  in  the  Alexander  Archipcla: 
Father  Innoccntius  Veniamfnoff,  the  noble  and  devoted  ni:- 
sionary,  was  sent  to  Unalashka,  and  began  his  labors  amor 
the  Aleuts. 

1825.  February  1^,  a  convention  between  Great  Britain  and  R: 
sia  was  concluded.     It  recognized  the  southern  boundary  i 
the  Russian  possessions  as  the  parallel  of  54°  40 .    Othcrwilji 
it  resembled  the  previous  agreement  with  the  United  State 

Franklin  undertook  his  second  journey  westward  from  t; 
Mackenzie  River. 

May  19,  1825,  Captain  F.  W.  Beechey,  in  H.  M.  S.  B!( 
som,  sailed  from  England  to  co-operate  from  Bering  Str: 
with  Parry  and  other  eastern  expeditions.  Lieutenant  CIi;.- 
takoff  succeeded  Murdvieff  in  the  direction  of  the  colonic 
He  transferred  the  principal  depot  of  the  Company  froi 
Sitka  to  St.  Paul,  Kadiak.  Father  Jacob  Netsvieloffw 
sent  as  missionary  to  the  Aleuts  of  Atka. 


182C 


18:7. 


i8j8. 


V 
V 

t 
t( 

}' 

5. 
¥ 


n 
S 


HISTORY. 


335 


\\S26.  Captain  Fr,  LutkcS  in  the  corvette  Senidvine,  wltii  the 
naturalists  Kittlitz,  Postels,  and  Mcrtens,  sailed  on  a  voyage 
of  discovery  from  St.  Petersburg.  On  the  27th  of  June, 
Ikechey  reached  Kamchatka,  and,  passing  through  Bering 
Strait,  entered  Kotzebue  Sound  in  July.  He  pushed  as  far 
north  as  the  ice  would  permit,  and  then  sent  out  a  boat  ex- 
pedition under  Mr.  Elson,  which  reached  and  named  Point 
Harrow.  About  the  i8th  of  August,  Franklin,  coming  from 
the  east,  reached  Return  Reef,  his  most  western  point.  The 
Blossom  then  left  Kotzebue  Sound  for  San  Francisco,  whence 
she  sailed  for  the  Sandwich  Islands  and  Macao,  in  this  man- 
ner consuming  the  winter. 

Failure  of  crops  in  the  Ross  Colony,  during  this  and  sev- 
eral subsequent  years,  reduced  the  annual  contribution  of 
flour  from  that  point  to  about  30,000  pounds. 

Captain  Chi'stakoff  removed  a  number  of  Aleuts  from 
.\mlia  to  Atka  Island,  at  their  own  request. 
118:7.  Ih^  Senidvine  reached  Sitka  June  27,  1827.  Here  she 
remained  until  July  31st.  After  visiting  Unaldshka,  the 
Pribyloff  Islands,  and  St.  Matthew,  she  sailed  to  Petro- 
pdvlovsk,  and  then  southward  for  the  winter. 

The  Blossom  returned  to  Bering  Strait  from  Macao,  but 
accomplished  little  or  nothing,  sailing  for  England  October 
7,  1827. 

l'!tolin  brought  a  cargo  of  salt  inMn  California  to  the 
colony. 

All  the  hogs  on  Chernobour  Island  perished  from  the  tidal 
wave  which  accompanied  an  earthquake  and  eruption  of  the 
volcano  on  Unimak. 

On  the  6th  of  August  a  convention  was  agreed  upon  be- 
tween the  United  States  and  Great  Britain,  leaving  the  terri- 
tory west  of  the  Rocky  Mountains  open  to  all  parties  fcr  ten 
years. 
[1828.  Captain-Lieutenant  Hdgenmeister  sailed,  in  the  transport 
Kiotky,  on  a  scientific  expedition  to  the  colonies.  Captain 
Stani'nkovich  explored  and  determined  many  points  on  the 
north  coast  of  Alidska.  Kramchenko  sailed  from  the  colo- 
nies in  the  Helena.  The  ninth  provision  ship  arrived  from 
St.  Petersburg.     The  Company  sent  fifty-eight  tons  of  salt 


n 


IWIH 


)t)ll!j 

III 


r"  p 


336 


HISTORY. 


1828.  to  Kamcliatka  for  the  government.  Liitke  returned  to 
Kamchatka  in  May,  and  examined  that  coast  as  far  north 
as  Bering  Strait,  returning  southward  in  .September. 

1829.  The  Company  determined  to  pay  for  foreign  merchandis: 
in  future  with  bills  of  exchange  instead  of  furs. 

Vasflieff  (not  Wasi'lielT)  explored  the  coast  to  the  Kusko- 
quim.  Father  Veniamfnofit"  visited  Nushergak  and  baptizoi! 
thirteen  natives.  Ingenstrum  visited  the  Andreanoflski  hi- 
ands  and  Attii. 

1830.  Chernoff  examined  the  harbor  of  Nuchek,  Chtagalul; 
Island,  and  the  mouth  of  the  Kaknu  River.  Kolmakc: 
renewed  his  explorations  toward  the  Ki'skoquim.  I'ltolin 
Wasi'lieff,  and  others  explored  more  thoroughly  the  coast; 
of  Norton  Sound  and  Golovi'n  Sound. 

On  the  2.  November  the  Company  took  formal  posses- 
sion of  the  Kurile  Islands. 

1 83 1.  liaron  F.  P.  Von  Wrangell  was  appointed  Director  of  the 
colonies. 

The  crew  and  cargo  of  a  small  vessel  called  the  Sea- 
Lion,  vrccked  on  Atka  Island,  were  saved  by  the  presence 
of  mind  of  Ingenstrom,  the  i)ilot.  The  Am(,Tican  ship  Caer- 
narvon arrived  in  Sitka  with  merchandise  from  Ent^land 
and  Brazil.  Vasilieff  explored  the  south  coast  of  Aliaska. 
Kramchenko  sailed  for  the  colonies  in  the  government  trans- 
port America.    Tcbenkofif  visited  Norton  Bay. 

1832.  Chief  Director  Wrangell  made  a  tour  of  the  colonics, 
especially  inspecting  Nushergak.  The  chief  depot  and  capi- 
tal of  the  territory  was  decided  finally  to  be  located  at  Sitka. 
Luke^n  was  sent  across  the  portage  from  Nushergak  to  the 
Kuskoquim,  where  he  established  a  trading-post. 

Father  Veniaminoff  baptized  seventy  natives  at  Nush- 
ergak. 

1833.  A  ukase  was  promulgated  April  f,  by  the  ministers  of  the 
crown,  allowing  all  Russians,  under  certain  restrictions,  to 
become  residents  of  the  colony. 

By  order  of  Baron  Wrangell,  Michael  TebenkofT  estab- 
lished Fort  St.  Michael's  on  Norton  Sound.  Assistant 
Director  Muravieff  introduced  important  reforms  into  the 
hitherto  destructive  pursuit  of  the  sea  animals.     (See  Chap- 


i'i 


HISTORY. 


rd 


i.     (See  Cliap- 


1833.  ter  VI.  Part  II.)  An  observatory  was  established  at  Sitka. 
Ivxplorations  in  the  Ale.xaiulcr  Archipelago  were  carried  on 
by  I'ltolin  and  Zaremba. 

1834.  The  Russian  government,  under  the  fourth  article  of  the 
convention  of  1824,  withdrew  the  privilege  of  free  naviga- 
tion of  their  waters  from  American  traders.  This  course 
was  prompted  by  the  sale  of  fire-arms  and  spirits  to  the 
natives  by  unscrupulous  traders.  The  American  Minister 
protested  against  the  action  of  Russia,  but  without  effect. 
The  convention  with  Great  Hritain  would  terminate  the 
following  year.  The  insatiable  Hudson  l^ay  Company,  ever 
ready  to  extend  their  traffic  by  force,  or  fraud  if  necessary, 
conceived  the  audacious  idea  of  establishing  a  fort  on  the 
Russian  territory  before  the  term  expired.  They  fitted  out 
the  vessel  Uryad  with  colonists,  cattle,  and  arms,  and  de- 
spatched her  to  the  mouth  of  the  Stikfne  River. 

liaron  Wrangcll  was  informed  of  the  project,  and  de- 
spatched Lieutenant  Dionysius  Zaremba,  in  the  arnTcd  brig 
Chi'chagoff  with  the  schooner  Chilkaht,  who  built  I'ort  Diony- 
sius on  a  small  harbor  near  the  mouth  of  the  .Stikine,  and 
thus  checked  the  encroachments  of  the  I'nglish,  who  were 
not  suffered  to  land.  The  latter  were  very  indignant,  and 
declared  that  ;^  20,000  had  been  spent  in  fitting  out  and 
loading  the  vessel,  which  was,  no  doubt,  a  gross  exaggeration. 
Remonstrances  were  useless,  and  they  were  obliged  to  return 
to  Fort  Vancouver  on  the  Columbia  River,  \vhcrc  they 
had  been  fitted  out.  This  matter  was  immediately  brought 
before  the  English  government,  who  demanded  satisfaction, 
through  their  agents,  for  an  alleged  infraction  of  the  treaty 
of  1825. 

The  Suchi'tna  River  was  explored  by  IMiilakoff.  The 
incompetency  of  an  overseer  in  the  Pn'byloff  Islands  par- 
tially frustrated  the  measures  adopted  by  Muravieff  for 
the  preservation  of  the  seal.  I"\ither  Wniami'noff  was  pro- 
moted to  a  bishopric,  and  transferred  to  .Sitka.  John 
McLeod,  a  trader  from  Liards  River,  discovered  the  head- 
waters of  the  Stikinc. 
1835.  An  imperial  ukase  removed  the  restrictions,  and  allowed 
all  Russian  subjects  to  settle  in  the  colonies. 


338 


HISTORY. 


ii 


iiiii'iii 


?  , 


:.  i 


1835.  In  this  and  followinf;  years,  GlasunoflT  explored  the  deltas 
of  the  Yukon  and  Kuskoquim  rivers,  ascending  the  former 
to  Anvi'k.  Captain  Tebenkotf  sailed  for  the  colonies  from 
Russia,  in  the  Company's  vessel  Helena. 

The  crops  failed  in  the  Ross  Colony,  and  this  caused  a 
scarcity  of  provisions  in  the  settlements. 

1836.  liaron   Wranj-jell  was   succeeded   by  Captain    Kuprianoffj 
in  the  General  Direction  of  the  colonies.     The  tenth  pro- 
vision ship  Helena  arrived,  April  ^,  at  Sitka,  in  charge  of{ 
Tebenkoff. 

Redoubt  St.  Michael,  attacked  by  the  natives,  was  success- 
fully defended  by  Kurupanoft'.  The  crops  failed  again  in 
the  California  settlement.  In  July  the  Hudson  Hay  Com- 
l)any  organized  the  expedition  of  Dease  and  Simpson. 

Small-po.x  appeared  at   Sitka.      Kulmakofif  ascended  the| 
Kuskoquim  with  bidarras.     VVoronkoffsky  explored  the  south 
coast  of  Aliiiska. 

Dupetit  Thouars  sailed  on  his  voyage  round  the  world,  in 
which  he  visited  the  northwest  coast. 

Captain  Sir  Edward  Belcher,  sailed  on  his  voyage  round  I 
the  world. 

1837.  The  dispute  between  the  Hudson  Bay  Company  and  the 
Russian  American  Company  was  compromised.  The  strip 
of  mainland  from  the  southern  boundary  to  Cape  Spencer 
was  leased  for  ten  years  to  the  Hudson  Bay  Company,  who 
were  to  pay  an  annual  rental  of  furs,  and  furnish  a  certain 
amount  of  provisions  annually  at  fixed  rates.  This  arrange- 
ment was  concluded  in  Hamburg,  and  Fort  St.  Dionysius] 
passed  into  the  hands  of  the  ICnglish. 

July  9th,  Peter  Warren  Dease  and  Thomas  Simpson  left  I 
the  mouth  of  the  Mackenzie  River  in  two  open  boats,  to 
explore  the  Arctic  coast  to  the  westward.  On  the  24th  they| 
arrived  at  Return  Reef,  Franklin's  farthest  point  in  1826. 
August  1st,  Simpson  left  the  boats  in  the  ice,  and  reached 
Point  Barrow  on  foot  August  4th.  On  the  17th  of  August 
they  reached  the  mouth  of  the  Mackenzie  on  their  return. 

Sir   I'Ahvard    Belcher  visited    the   coast   in   the   Sulphur. 
He  touched  at  various  points  on  the  coasts  and  islands  be- 1 
tween  Sitka  and  Kadiak.     Captain  Berens,  with  the  Com- 


HISTORY. 


339 


orcd  the  tlclta-i 
linj;  the  fornur 
a  colonics  from 

i  this  caused  a 

ain  Kuprianoff 
The  tenth  pro- 
a,  in  charge  of 

^es,  was  success- 
failed  a<;ain  in 
idson  Kay  Com- 
1  Simpson, 
ff  ascended  the 
:plored  the  south 

nd  the  world,  in 

is  voyage  round 

inipany  and  the 
ised.  The  strip 
)  Cape  Spencer 
r  Company,  who 
irnish  a  certain] 
This  arrange- 
t  St.  Dionysius] 

as  Simpson  left 
open  boats,  to| 
n  the  24th  they 
point  in    1 820.1 
ce,  and  reached 
17th  of  August  I 
their  return. 

Bi  the  Sulphur, 
and  islands  be- 
with  the  Com- 


1837.  pany's  vessel  Nikolai  I.,  arrived,  August  17th,  at  Sitka. 
Schooner  Chilkaht,  with  Woronkcjlfsky  on  board,  was  wrecked 
near  Aliaska.  Provisions,  whiskey,  rum,  and  a  steam-engiue 
arrived  at  Sitka  from  Hostun.  During  this  and  several  fol- 
lowing years  ihe  sma!l-po.\  raged  among  the  natives  of  the 
coast,  slaying  thousamls.  The  shamans  discouraged  vacci- 
nation, and  it  spread  everywhere. 

The  Company  provided  for  three  native  schools.  The 
Thlinkct  chief  Kuat-he  voluntarily  freed  his  slaves.  Rev- 
erend h'ather  Germain,  the  oldest  missionary  in  the  colonies, 
died  on  Spruce  Island  near  Kadiak,  soon  after  he  hail  fmislied 
a  mausoleum  in  memory  of  Archl)ishop  Jtkisaph. 

icSjS.  •  Kushevarotf  e.\[)lored  the  northern  coasts  as  far  as  Point 
Harrow  in  the  brig  Potifar.  Lind(;nherg  continued  the  re- 
searches among  the  islands  near  .Sitka.  Me  particularly 
examined  Lynn  Canal  and  the  Chilkaht  River.  A  colony 
of  Aleuts  were  placed  on  Amlia  Island,  in  consequence  of 
the  great  increase  of  the  blue  foxes  which  had  been  intro- 
duced there  by  the  Company. 

Father  Golovfn  bai)tized  one  hundred  and  five  natives  of 
Nushergak. 

Malakoff  ascended  the  Yukon  to  Nuhito.  He  left  a  force 
under  Notarmi  to  build  a  trading-post.  These  men  returned 
for  want  of  provisions  to  the  Redoubt  in  the  fall.  During 
the  winter  the  Indians  plundered  and  burned  the  buildings 
which  had  been  erected. 

The  United  States  P'xploring  Expedition,  under  Lieu- 
tenant Charles  Wilkes,  was  organized.  The  sloops  of  war 
Vincennes  and  Peacock,  store-ship  Relief,  brig  Porpoise, 
schooners  Sea-GuU  and  I'lying-Fish  sailcil  from  the  Chesa- 
peake, August  19,  1838,  and  passed  around  Cape  Horn.  The 
unfortunate  Sea-Gull  was  lost  with  all  on  'joard. 

1839.  ^he  Hudson  Bay  Company  agreed  to  furnish  the  Russian 
American  Company  annually  with  560.000  lbs.  wheat,  19,920 
lbs.  flour,  16,160  lbs.  pease,  16,160  lbs.  barley,  36.880  lbs. 
bacon,  19,920  lbs.  beef,  and  3,680  lbs.  ham,  at  fi.xed  prices. 

The  Company's  vessel  Nikolai  I.,  Captain  KadnikolT,  sailed 
for  the  colonies,  carrying  the  preparator  of  the  Academy  of 
Sciences,  Elia  VVossnessensky,  to  make  collections,  and  obser- 


m 


340 


HISTORY. 


,,|ll| 


liui ,   ' 


,  ;;i: 


lilt 


1839.  vations  on  natural  history  on  the  northwest  coast  of 
Anu'rica.  MiinishcfV  examined  Kupriilnolf  Straits  and  tin; 
Kadiak  Archipelago. 

I''athcr  VeniaminofT  presented  a  j)lan  for  the  more  cflicient 
organization  of  the  colonial  missions. 

Mount  St.  l''lias  is  recorded  for  the  first  time  as  having 
emitted  smoke.  The  sloop  Aleut,  under  Kashevaroff,  was 
wrecked  near  Kadiak.  Robert  Campbell's  l-'ort  Drew,  on 
the  I.iard's  River,  was  plundend  by  the  natives.  Tart  of  llit 
inhabitants  cscapetl  to  I'ort  Halkett. 

1840.  Kupriiinoff  was  succeeded  by  IClolin  as  Chief  Director  of 
the  colonies. 

A  new  contract  was  entered  Into  with  the  Hudson  Hav 
Company,  leasing;  the  strip  of  coast  already  referred  to.  A 
Hudson  IJay  post  was  established  at  the  head  of  Glacier 
Arm  of  Stephen's  Strait.  The  Taku  (not  TiUico)  River  wa> 
ascended  by  Douglas  for  thirty-five  miles.  Captain  Kadni- 
koff  arrived  with  the  twelfth  provision  ship,  May  1st,  from 
Russia.  The  hierarchy  of  the  colonies  was  rcorganizc('  1 
conformity  with  VenianniK)fr's  recommentlations  and  detac  ! 
from  the  tliocese  of  Irkutsk.  A  trading-post  was  built  at  the 
mouth  of  the  Unalakli'k  River,  Norton  Sound.  The  snuill- 
pox  disappeared  from  the  colonies. 

1841.  The  coast  of  Northwest  America  was  visited  by  Wilkes's 
Exploring  Expedition.  On  the  27th  of  April  the  Vincenncs 
visited  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia  and  the  Straits  of  I'uca, 
and  sent  several  exploring  parties  into  the  interior.  The 
Peacock  was  lost  at  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia,  July  iSlh, 
In  the  autumn  the  expedition  sailed  southward. 

The  thirteenth  provision  ship,  under  Lieutenant  D.  E.  Za- 
remba,  reached  Sitka  April  3d,  with  Lieutenant  Zagoskin, 
L  R.  N.,  on  board. 

The  government  transport  Abo,  Captain  Junker,  visited 
Ochotskand  the  colonics.  Sir  George  .Simpson  visited  many 
points  on  the  coast.  De  Mofras  visited  California  and  Green- 
ough  the  Columbia  River.  Captain  Kashevaroff  explored 
the  coast  of  Bering  Sea,  north  of  Bristol  liay.  Lukeen's 
Fort  on  the  Kuskoqiiim  was  partly  destroyed  by  the  Indians. 

l'!tolin  established  a  periodical  fair  for  the  natives  around 


iiii 


M* 


IlISTOKY. 


341 


more  (.'fllciiiit 


icf  Director  of 


rcorganize( 


1841.  Sitka.  The  post  at  NuI.itD  on  the  Vukon  \va<?  rebuilt  by 
Der.ibiii,  who  rt'iiiaiiu-d  in  coinniand  'liie  Ross  settlement 
in  California  was  sold  to  Captain  John  Sutter  for  830,000. 
I'art  of  this  was  paid  in  cash,  and  Si  5,000  was  afterwards 
paid  to  the  Company's  aj;ent  in  San  I'rancisco,  a  Mr.  Stew- 
art. Stewart  abscomled  with  the  money.  In  consequence  of 
this  ami  the  expenses  of  prosecution  a  deficit  appeared  on 
tiie  Company's  books  of  37,4^4  rubles,   50  kopeks. 

1.S4J.  In  December  Mr.  Linn,  M.  C.  from  Missouri,  brou^dit  a 
bill  before  the  Senate  of  the  United  Slates  for  the  occupa- 
tion of  Ore{;()n.  This  bill  was  passed  by  the  Senate  near  the 
close  of  the  session.  Negotiations  were  entered  into  soon 
after  by  the  United  States  and  Great  Hritain  to  come  to  a 
conclusion  in  re,i;ard  to  the  western  territories  of  America. 
Lieutenant  /ai;(')skin  visited  the  valley  of  the  Yukon,  and 
reacheil  Nulato  in  the  autumn. 

Creoles  were  cpialified  for  entering  the  church  as  priests. 
Michael  Kutkan,  a  Christian  native,  was  made  a  tyone  or 
chief  of  the  Sitka  Thlinkets. 

1843.  Zag(')skin  ascended  the  Yukon  to  Nowikakat.  A  party 
scut  to  explore  rhne/hnoi  Lake  were  unable  to  make  their 
explorations  on  act  ount  of  the  hostility  of  the  natives. 

I'"remont  started  01    his  journey  to  the  Rocky  Mountain 


region. 


1844.  The  charter  of  the  Russian  American  Company  was  re- 
newed tor  twenty  years  by  the  ICmperor  Nicholas  I.  This 
dated  from  the   1st  of  January,  1842. 

Malakoff  examined  the  Suchitna,  anil  Gregorieff  renewed 
the  attempt  to  explore  the  Copper  River.  Kashevaroff  con- 
tinued his  investigations  on  the  shores  of  Hering  Sea. 

I'^tolin  consolidated  seventy-five  Aleutian  settlements  on 
Kadiak  into  seven  regular  villages.  The  fust  school  was  or- 
ganized for  the  natives  at  Sitka. 

1845.  The  Company  established  a  factory  at  Aian  on  the 
Och6t.sk  Sea  ^;"''"-.     March  -,  l-^tolin  issued  strict  instructions 

July.)  .1' 

as  to  the  manner  in  which  employes  should  treat  the  natives. 
No  servant  of  the  Company  was  allowed  to  strike  a  native 
except  in  defence  of  his  life. 

May  p,  the  brig  Chichagoff  was  run  on  shore  on  Copper 


-fTTW 


1\]\:^' 


I 


r^ 


^i!:l 


llll'i 


lUi 


342 


HISTORY. 


1845.  Island  to  save  her  from  foundering,  by  Captain  Martin 
Klinkofstrom,  who  wintered  there  with  his  party,  l^tolin 
was  succeeded  by  Captain  Michael  D.  Tcbenkoff  as  Chief 
Director  of  the  colonies.  Harder  ascertained  the  astro- 
nomical position  of  the  volcano  of  St.  Paul  in  Aliaska. 

1846.  In  April,  war  was  declared  between  the  United  States 
and  Mexico.  Before  this  was  known  in  California  some 
trouble  arose  there,  and  the  Mexicans  attempted  to  expel 
the  American  settlers.  Commodore  Stockton  arrived  at 
Monterey  with  the  news  of  the  declaration  of  war.  The 
Mexicans,  under  General  Castro,  retreated,  and  Stockton  pro- 
claimed the  sovereignty  of  the  United  States  over  the  terri- 
tory. Several  battles  followed  in  January  of  the  next  year, 
in  which  the  Mexicans  were  routed,  and,  by  the  treaty  of 
peace  which  soon  followed,  California  was  ceded  to  the 
United  States  for  fifteen  millions  of  dollars. 

The  long-deferred  question  of  the  northwestern  boundary 
of  the  United  States,  which  had  been  omitted  in  the  Ash- 
burton  treaty  of  1842,  now  came  up  for  settlement.  The 
United  States  claimed  all  the  territory  south  of  54°  40'  on 
the  Pacific  Coast,  and  Great  Britain  claimed  all  that  between 
54°  40'  and  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia  River.  Both  parties 
compromised  on  the  parallel  of  49°  north  latitude  as  the 
dividing  line  between  their  territories. 

The  Company's  commercial  transactions  with  the  Sand- 
wich Islands  for  the  first  time  proved  profitable.  The  ves- 
sel Sitka,  Captain  Conradi,  sailed  from  Russia  for  the  colo- 
nies. The  Thlinkets  attacked,  and  took  possession  of,  the 
fort  at  the  mouth  of  the  Stiki'ne  River.  Bcnzeman  explored 
the  islands  north  of  Kadiak,  and  determined  their  astronom- 
ical position. 

1847.  McMurray  descended  the  Porcupine  River,  and  built  Fort 
Yukon  near  its  mouth.  A  general  earthquake  was  felt  on 
the  northwest  coast.  It  was  very  severe  at  Sitka.  Mounts 
Baker,  St.  Elias,  and  St.  Paul  in  Aliaska,  showed  signs  of 
eruption. 

1848.  The  Company's  vessel  Atka  sailed  from  St.  Petersburg  for 
the  colonics,  under  Captain  Riedcll.  She  brought  the 
mining  engineer,  Doroshin,  who  examined  Baranoff  Lsland 


I'm 


HISTORY. 


343 


1848.  and  Cook's  Inlet  for  mineral  wealth,  ind  also  visited  Califor- 
nia. Serebrannikotif  and  two  other  Russians,  with  six  Aleuts, 
ascended  the  Copper  ^liver.  His  profligacy  excited  the  hos- 
tility of  the  natives,  who  killed  him  and  three  of  the  party, 
but  delivered  up  his  papers.  Woivvodsky  succeeded  T'iben- 
kotf  as  Chief  Director  of  the  colonies. 

.  ellt  and  Archimandritoff  determined,  astronon/jally, 
many  points  about  the  peninsula  of  Kenai.  The  transport 
Ikikal,  Captain  Nevelsky,  sailed  from  Ru<:sia  for  the  colo- 
nies. 

Captain  Sir  John  Franklin  having  sailed  in  1845,  with 
Captain  Crozier,  in  the  Erebus  and  Terror,  in  search  of  a 
Northwest  Passage,  and  no  news  from  them  having  b'^en  re- 
ceived since  the  25th  of  July  of  that  year,  the  go' >  rnment 
of  Great  Britain  determined  to  send  out  three  expeditions  in 
search  of  the  missing  vessels.  This  inaugurated  the  most 
flourishing  era  of  arctic  exploration.  Only  such  as  visited 
the  Pacific  will  be  noticed  here,  but  many  expeditions,  pub- 
lic and  private,  were  fitted  out  by  England,  P'rance,  and  the 
United  States  for  the  same  purpose.  Although  unsuccessful 
in  finding  any  survivors,  these  f.xpeditions  have  added  very 
greatly  to  our  knowledge  of  the  northern  regions  ;  the  cour- 
age, energy,  and  endurance  shown  by  those  engaged  in  them 
can  never  be  too  highly  praised.  The  Plover,  Commander 
Thomas  E.  L.  Moore,  sailed  from  Sheerness  January  i,  1848, 
to  join  the  Herald,  Captain  Menry  Kellett,  C.  B.,  at  Panama, 
whence  they  were  to  proceed  to  Petropavlovsk  and  Bering 
Strait,  and  co-operate  with  expeditions  from  the  Atlantic  and 
the  Mackenzie  River.  The  Plover  was  a  slow  sailer,  and  (her 
plan  being  changed)  she  did  not  reach  the  Sandwich  Islands 
until  August  22(1,  too  late  for  investigations  in  the  region  of 
Bering  Strait.  She  proceeded  to  Plover  Bay,  and,  deciding 
to  winter  there,  was  laid  up  in  an  arm  of  the  bay,  called 
Emma  Harbor  by  Captain   xMoore. 

In  the  summer  of  1848  the  first  whaler  ventured  through 
Bering  Strait.  This  was  the  American  ship  Superior,  Cap- 
tain Roys.  He  was  rewarded  for  his  enterprise  with  a  full 
ship  in  a  very  short  time  ;  the  report  of  his  success  spread- 
ing, he  was  imitated,  the  following  season,  by  one  hundred 


i 


III  iji'iii 

^l       liil 


W\    il'l 

I  ■  I 


344 


HISTORY. 


1848.  and  fifty-four  American  whalers,  and  the  whale  fishery 
was  thus  permanently  established  north  of  the  Strait. 

1849.  In  February  of  this  year,  gold  was  discovered  on  Captain 
Sutter's  farm  in  California.  Special  explorations  were  made 
in  the  vicinity  of  Resurrection  Bay,  by  the  orders  of  the 
Company. 

In  June  the  Plover  left  her  winter  quarters  and  sailed  for 
Kotzebue  Sound,  arriving  near  Chamisso  Island  on  the  14th 
of  July.  The  next  day  she  was  joined  by  the  Herald  and 
the  yacht  Nancy  Dawson,  owned  by  Robert  Sheddcn,  Esq., 
who  had  volunteered  to  assist  in  the  search.  July  i8th,  the 
vessels  left  the  Sound.  Two  whale-boats,  under  Lieutenant 
PuUen,  were  despatched  to  examine  the  coast  to  the  north- 
ward. On  the  17th  of  August,  land  was  seen,  and  the  same 
day  Captain  Kelletc  landed  on  an  island,  which  he  named 
Herald  Island,  after  his  ship.  At  the  same  time  high  peaks 
were  seen,  probably  those  of  Wrangcll  Land.  The  boat  ex- 
pedition reached  Point  Barrow  in  company  with  the  yacht. 
which  returned  from  that  point.  The  boats  kept  on,  reach- 
ing the  Mackenzie  River  on  the  25th  of  August,  and  For: 
Macpherson  on  the  5th  of  September  ;  from  which  poiii:; 
they  made  their  way  home  by  way  of  Norway  House,  Yori^l 
Factory,  and  Hudson  Bay.  The  Plover  wintered  in  Kotzt 
bue  Sound,  while  the  Herald  returned  through  Bering  Stra;*! 
and  sailed  for  Mazatlan. 

The  Company's  vessel  Atka  crri'  ed  in  the  colonies,  undi: 
Riedell,  for  the  second  time.  A  vessel  loaded  with  old  ar 
worthless  goods  was  sent  to  California,  and  realized  lar, 
profits.  Subsequent  attempts  of  the  same  kind  were  not  - 
successful. 

1850.  On  the  9th  of  September,  (  alifornia  was  admitted  to  li 
Union  as  a  State. 

On  the  20th  of  January,  Captain  Richard  Collinson  ar 
Commander  Robert  S.  LeM.  M'Clure,  in  the  Enterpr; 
and  Investigator,  sailed  from  Plymouth.  They  were  to  i 
deavor  to  reach  the  Plover  in  Kotzebue  vSound  in  July.  Cc 
linson  sailed  eastward  from  Bering  Strait,  after  leavini 
Lieutenant  Barnard  and  Surgeon  Adams  with  one  man 
St.  Michael's  Redoubt,  Norton  Sound,  to  prosecute  their  n 


HISTORY. 


345 


^1 


admitted  to  tlij 


prosecute  their  rj 


1850.  searches  in  the  Yukon  Valley.  He  could  not  pass  Point 
Barrow  on  account  of  ice,  and  returned  to  winter  in  Hong 
Kong. 

M'Clurc,  who  arrived  earlier  in  the  season,  passed  Point 
Barrow,  examined  the  coast  of  America  to  Cape  Parry,  dis- 
covered Prince  of  Wales  Strait,  Prince  Albert  and  Baring 
Islands,  and  M'Clure  Strait.  He  wintered  in  Prince  of 
Wales  Strait.  The  Plover  reached  Cape  Lisburne,  meeting 
the  Investigator  there  August  ist,  and  wintered  at  Grantley 
Harbor. 

Captain  Mitkoff  disposed  of  colonial  timber  at  Guaymas 
very  profitably.  From  this  date,  cattle  were  successfully 
bred  at  Kadiak  and  Cook's  Inlet.  A  whaling  company 
was  organized  by  the  Russian  goveriiment,  and  the  first 
vessels  employed  in  the  fishery  sailed  December  ]^ 

During  the  winter  Captain  Bedford  Pirn  made  explora- 
tions between  Norton  and  Kotzebue  Sounds  and  Grantley 
Harbor.  Barnard  went  with  Dcrdbin  to  Nulato  in  the 
winter,  leaving  Mr.  Adams  at  the  Redoubt. 

185 1.  Collinson  returned  to  Bering  Strait  in  the  spring,  passed 
Point  Barrow,  reached  Melville  Sound,  and,  returning,  win- 
tered in  Walker  Bay. 

M'Clure,  finding  the  southern  extremity  of  Prince  of 
Wales  Strait  closed  by  ice,  passed  along  the  west  and 
north  coast  of  Baring  Island,  and  anchored  in  Mercy  Bay  in 
sight  of  P.Ielville  Island.     Here  he  wintered. 

Meanwhile  the  Koyukuns  had  attacked  Nulato  in  Febru- 
ary, 185 1,  as  elsewhere  described.  Barnard  was  killed,  and 
Adarns,  after  burying  him  near  the  fort,  returned  to  St. 
Michael's.  Captain  Pim  sailed  for  England  in  the  Plover. 
Fort  Selkirk,  established  by  Robert  Campbell  on  the  Upper 
Yukon,  was  plundered  by  the  Indians  and  burned,  but  the 
inmates  were  not  injured. 

During  this  and  the  two  following  years  the  Company's 
vessels  supplied  the  government  posts  in  Kamchatka  with 
provisions. 

1852.  M'Clurc  was  held  by  the  ice  all  summer  in  Mercy  Bay. 
Collinson  surveyed  Minto  Inlet  and  Prince  Albert  Sound ; 

passed  through  Dolphin,  Union,  and  Dease  Straits ;  and  win- 
tered in  Cambridge  Bay,  Victoria  Land. 


Tn— ni 


i : 


lairi 


I'll 


iitlf) 


iiii 


f 


346 


HISTORY. 


1852.  Captain  Tebcnkoff  prepared  a  hydrographic  atlas  of  the 
colonies. 

The  scarcity  of  ice,  which  had  previously  been  sent  at 
great  expense  from  Boston  around  the  Horn  to  San  Fran- 
cisco, induced  some  San  Francisco  merchants  to  send  to 
Sitka  to  obtain  a  supply.  The  vessel  arrived  in  February, 
1852,  and  took  on  board  250  tons,  for  which  the  Company 
received  about  $18,000,  at  $75  per  ton.  In  October  an 
agent  was  sent  from  Sitka  to  California,  where  a  temporary 
arrangement  was  made  by  the  Company  to  furnish  1,000  tons 
annually  at  $  35  a  ton.  The  Company  which  agreed  to  take 
the  ice  was  called  the  American  Russian  Trade  Company, 
and  the  contract  was  binding  for  three  years  only. 

The  S'tka-kwan  (or  Sitka  Thlinkets)  murdered  forty 
Stiki'ne-kwan  (Stiki'ne  Thlinkets)  who  came  to  hold  a  coun- 
cil with  the  Russians  at  Sitka.  The  hospital  at  the  Sulphur 
Springs  near  Sitka  was  destroyed  by  the  natives.  The 
Amphitrite,  Captain  Charles  Frederick,  and  the  Plover, 
Commander  Rochefort  Maguire,  sailed  from  England  for 
Bering  Strait,  wintering  at  Point  Barrow.  The  Resolute, 
Captain  Henry  KcUett,  sailed  from  England  from  the  Atlan- 
tic to  Melville  Island,  and  wintered  near  Dealy  Island. 

1853.  M'Clure,  being  fast  in  the  ice,  made  arrangements  for 
sending  the  weaker  part  of  his  crew  to  the  Hudson  Bay 
Company's  posts  on  the  Mackenzie,  and  for  proceeding  over 
the  ice  with  the  more  able  men  to  Lancaster  Sound.  To 
their  great  joy  and  surprise,  Captain  Bedford  Pim,  whom 
they  had  left  near  Bering  Strait,  appeared  with  a  sledge  party 
from  the  Resolute.  Pirn  had  found  a  note  left  by  M'Clure  at 
Winter  Harbor,  Melville  Island,  and  reached  the  Investiga- 
tor in  the  spring.  The  crew  of  the  latter  were  transferred  to 
the  Resolute,  on  board  of  which  they  wintered.  By  walking 
over  the  solid  ice  from  Mercy  Bay  to  Dealy  Island,  tliey 
made  the  northwest  passage.  , 

Captain  Colllnson  returned  through  the  straits  by  which 
he  had  come,  and,  doubling  Cape  Bathurst,  wintered  in  Cam- 
den I^ay.     Maguire,  in  the  Plover,  wintered  at  Point  Barrow. 

Commander  Trollope,  in  the  Rattlesnake,  wintered  in  Port 
Clarence,  Bering  Strait.     Commodore  Perry,  who  had  started 


HISTORY. 


347 


ic  atlas  of  the 


1853.  in  November  of  the  preceding  year  on  the  United  States 
Japan  Expedition,  reached  Yeddo  Bay  in  June,  1853,  where 
he  wintered.  The  North  Pacific  I^xploring  Expedition,  in 
charge  of  Cadwalader  Ringgold  and  Captain  John  Rodgers, 
reached  China.  Captain  Ringgold,  being  out  of  healt'.i,  was 
obliged  to  refirn,  and  Captain  Rodgers  took  charge  of  the 
expedition. 

The  Russian  American  Company  took  possession  of  Saka- 
lin  Island,  north  of  Yesso,  in  the  Japanese  Archipelago. 

1854.  The  crews  of  the  Investigator  and  the  Resolute  were 
transferred  from  the  latter  vessel  to  the  North  Star,  Captain 
Pullcn,  at  Beechey  Island,  and  returned  on  board  of  her  to 
England  in  the  month  of  October.  Collinson  left  Camden 
Bay  July  20th,  passing  Point  Barrow  and  Bering  Strait,  and 
reaching  I'^ngland  with  the  Plover  in  the  spring  of  1855. 

Commodore  Perry  concluded  the  treaty  with  Japan  in 
March,  1854. 

Commodore  Rodgers,  having  divided  his  forces,  carried  on 
explorations  among  the  Aleutian  Islands,  on  the  coast  of  Kam- 
chatka, in  Bering  Strait,  and  in  the  Arctic  Ocean  north  of  the 
Strait. 

The  P^rench  and  English  forces  attacked  the  town  of 
Petropavlovsk,  but  were  routed  by  the  Russians  and  Kam- 
shadales  with  a  loss  of  one  hundred  and  seven  men.  The 
English  Admiral  Price  committed  suicide  in  the  shame  which 
he  felt  at  the  result ;  he  was  buried  on  the  shore,  and  the  next 
day,  August  29th,  the  fleet  left  the  Bay  of  Avatcha. 

The  Company's  vessels  were  gratuitously  placed  at  the  dis- 
posal of  the  Imperial  government  during  this  and  the  next 
year.  The  settlements  were  supplied  with  provisions  chiefly 
by  American  vessels.  The  President  ot  the  American  ."lus- 
sian  Trade  Company,  armed  with  letters  from  United  States 
officials  and  the  Russian  Minister  at  W^^shington,  went  to  St. 
Petersburg  and  obtain-^d  ^n  audience  from  the  lunperor, 
opening  negotiations  in  iciation  to  the  ice  contract. 
'855.  He  succeeded  in  obtaining  an  Imperial  order  dated  Octo- 
ber, 1855,  on  the  Russian  American  Company,  requiring 
them  to  sell  ice  at  the  original  cost  in  the  colony,  and  to  fur- 
nish it  in  sufficient  quantities  to  supply  California,  Mexico, 


I 

i 


348 


HISTORY. 


""1 

iiii'ii 

'  I  ll 


•■ 


1855.  and  the  Sandwich  Islands.  They  were  also  to  supply  coal, 
timber,  and  fish  for  twenty  years,  and  in  return  to  receive 
half  of  the  net  profits. 

The  exploring  expedition  under  Commodore  Rodgers 
reached  San  Francisco  on  its  return. 

In  May  the  allied  forces  returned  to  Petropavlovsk,  whicli 
had  been  evacuated  by  the  Russians.  They  captured  an  old 
Russian  whaler,  burned  the  government  buildings,  broke  all 
the  windows  in  the  town,  robbed  and  injured  the  Greek 
Catholic  Church,  and  razed  the  old  abandoned  earthworks. 
After  this  child's  play  they  left  Avatcha.  The  Company's 
brig  Ochotsk,  chased  by  the  allied  cruisers,  was  wrecked 
near  the  Amoor  River.  The  Thlinkets  again  revolted  at 
Sitka.  They  took  possession  of  the  Indian  chapel,  killing 
two  Russians  and  wounding  nineteen.  Woiwodsky  subdued 
them,  killing  sixty  of  the  ringleaders. 

The  Kwikhpagmuts  attacked  Fort  Andr6afsky,  killing  two  I 
Russians,  the  only  occupants. 

1857.  The  fall  of  Sebastopol  and  the  ensuing  peace  relieved  the 
Company  from  the  alarms  and  contingencies  of  war. 

1858.  The  Thlinkets  voluntarily  proposed  to  open  trade  with 
the  Russians,  and  tendered,  as  a  neutral  ground  for  trading, 
a  point  near  the  Stiki'ne  River. 

1859.  T^^    President  of  the    Ice    Company  in    San   Francisco  1 
proved  to  be  a  man  of  no  capital.     He  could  not  build  the ! 
necessary  houses  to  receive  the  ice  in  San  Francisco,  and 
the  fish  and  ice  arriving  from  Sitka  were  spoiled  for  want  of 
storage.    Misunderstandings  arose.    The  bank  failed  in  which  I 
the    Ice  Company  kept  their  funds,  and  the  President  ab- 
sconded with  the  money.     At  last  Captain  Furuhelm  was 
sent  from   Russia  to  California  to  annul  the  contract  and 
make  a  new  one.     He  succeeded  in  doing  this  without  resort 
to  legal  process,  but  the  proceedings  were  not  consummated  | 
for  several  years. 

The  Hudson  Bay  Company's  lease  was  renewed  for  the  I 
second  time,  for   four   years.     The  annual    rental  was  two 
thousand  sea-otter  skins.     The  contract  was  originally  made 
June  I,  1840,  renewed  in  1849,  again  in  this  year,  and  vvas| 
to  expire  June  i,  1862. 


HISTORY. 


349 


odore    Rodgers 


fsky,  k'Uing  two 


1859.  A  new  fort  was  built  at  Nuldto  on  the  old  site.  Volcanic 
action  was  felt  in  the  colonies. 

i860.  Woiwodsky  was  succeeded  by  Fiiruheltn  as  Chief  Director 
of  the  colonies.  The  Kadiak  was  wrecked  near  Spruce  Isl- 
and. Robert  Kennicott  passed  the  winter  at  Fort  Yukon, 
where  Mr.  Lockhart  was  in  command. 

The  Imperial  Chamberlain,  Paulus  Nikolai-evich  Golov/n, 
was  ordered  to  the  colonies  to  investigate  and  report  on 
their  condition,  pending  the  petition  for  an  extension  of  the 
charter  of  the  Russian  American  Company. 

1861.    Kennicott  descended  the  Yukon  to  the  Small  Houses. 

The  pilot,  Michael  Kadin,  lost  the  steamer  Nikolai  I.  in 
Kake  .Strait.  The  natives  saved  the  crew  and  entertained 
llicm  hospitably  until  a  vessel  arrived  in  search  of  them. 
Colovi'n  arrived  in  Sitka.  His  report,  which  was  received 
in  St.  Petersburg  in  the  same  year,  and  published  the  follow- 
ing year  (in  Russian),  contains  many  important  statistics, 
the  most  interesting  of  which  are  given  below,  with  a  few 
from  Grewingk. 

The  original  capital  of  the  Company  was  98,000  R.  s.* 
After  1818  the  stock  was  watered  by  making  the  shares  500 
R.  instead  of  150  R.  s.  In  1844  the  reserve  capital,  exclu- 
sive of  property  and  the  original  capital,  was  about  450,000 

•  R.  s.  In  1862  it  stood  as  follows:  Original  capital,  660,511 
R.  s.  Reserves,  737,745  R.  s.  Insurance,  174,372  R.  s.  Total, 
1,572,628  R.  s.  The  original  investment  paid  from  six  to  ten 
per  cent,  clear  of  all  expenses,  annually,  beside  the  pickings 
and  stealings  of  the  employes  and  officers,  which  were  a  by 
no  means  insignificant  item.  Dividends,  on  each  share  of 
about  )52i,  were  from  1841  to  1851  about  $3.00;  from  1851 
to  1858,  $3.60;  from  1858  to  i860,  $4.00.  From  1841  to  1851 
the  Company  paid  two  million  rubles  taxes  to  the  Imperial 
government.  The  gross  income  of  the  Company  from  1841 
to  1862  was  20,305,681  R.  s.  January,  i860,  the  balance  of 
capital  on  hand,  including  property,  was  5,907,859  R.  s.  The 
total  amount  of  dividends  from  1842  to  1859  was  2,103,004 
R.  s.    The  average  annual  dividends  amounted  to  142,000  R.  s. 

•  R.s.  =  silver  rubles,  each  worth  about  seventy-five  cents.     R.  =  paper  rubles, 
now  worth  about  twenty  cents. 


Ilri 


in 


1 


m 


III 


III)  ii: 


II    •< 


vl      I 


350 


HISTORY. 


i86r.    About  40,000  R.  s.  were  issued  in  the  form  of  marki,  or] 
parchment  bills,  stamped  with  the  Company's  seal,  for  cir- 
culation in  the  colonies. 

The  government  was  exclusively  in  the  hands  of  the  Chief 
Director,  who  was  bound  by  oath  to  support  the  interests  of 
the  Company.  He  was  elected  by  the  Directory  at  St.  Pe- 
tersburg. This  system  was  prolific  in  abuses.  There  was  I 
no  law  in  the  colonies,  except  the  by-laws  and  regulations  of 
the  Company.  On  this  ground  the  colonial  officials  were 
obliged  to  discharge  from  custody  a  foreigner  who  wa^ 
caught  smuggling,  as  there  was  no  law  by  which  he  could  be 
punished,  as  he  was  not  a  servant  of  the  Company. 

The  territory  was  divided  into  six  districts.  Kadidk  had  a 
special  bureau  to  itself,  but  the  others  were  governed  by 
officers  called  Uprovalisha.  The  districts  were :  I.  Sitka, 
from  Mount  St.  Elias  south ;  II.  Kadiak,  from  St.  Elias  to 
Bristol  Bay,  and  west  to  the  Shiimagin  Islands  ;  III.  St.  Mi- 
chael's, including  Norton  Sound,  the  Yukon,  and  the  Kits- 
koqiiim  ;  IV.  Unalashka,  from  the  Shiimagins  to  the  Priby- 
lofF,  and  including  the  Fox  Islands ;  V.  Atka,  comprising 
the  remainder  of  the  Aleutian  chain  and  the  Commander's 
I.slands  ;  VI.  Kurile,  'ncluding  the  Kurile  Islands. 

In  the  early  days  of  the  Company  the  Aleuts  were  sub- 
jected to  the  most  horrible  outrages.  The  names  of  Glot- 
toff  and  Sol6viefif  make  them  shudder  to  this  day.  Thou- 
sands perished  under  sword  and  fire.  Long  after  these 
enormities  were  checked,  the  Russians  considered  the 
Aleuts  as  beasts  rather  than  men.  No  one  thought  of 
ameliorating  their  condition  ;  on  the  contrary,  dissension 
and  quarrels  were  intentionally  stirred  up  in  their  principal 
villages  for  their  destruction.  It  is  well  known  that  Bara- 
noff  regarded  the  life  of  an  Aleutian  as  of  no  value ;  hun- 
dreds of  these  poor  creatures  perished  in  forced  voyages 
between  Sitka  and  Kadiak  in  their  frail  kyaks.  Their 
numbers  were  diminished  from  10,000  in  1799  to  5,238  in 
1808  (ResanofT's  census),  and  to  about  1,500  at  the  present 
day. 

The  Aleuts  were  the  slaves  of  the  Company.  They  were 
obliged  to  attend  all  hunting  expeditions,  and  sell  all  furs  to 


1861 


HISTORY. 


351 


n  of  marki,  or 
s  seal,  for  cir- 

Is  of  the  Chief 
he  interests  of 
:ory  at  St.  Pc- 
:s.  There  was 
regulations  of 

officials  were 
;ner  who  wn- 
:h  he  could  be 
•any. 

Kadiak  had  a 
:  governed  by 
ere :  I.  Sitka, 
n  St.  Elias  to 
3 ;  III.  St.  Mi. 
and  the  Kiis- 
3  to  the  Pri'by- 
;a,  comprising 
Commander's 
ids. 

uts  were  sub- 
ames  of  Glot- 

day.  Thou- 
g  after  these 
)nsidercd  the 
thought  of 
ry,  dissension 
heir  principal 
/n  that  Bara- 
3  value ;  hiin- 
irced  voyages 
yaks.  Their 
)  to  5,238  in 
t  the  present 

They  wore 
ell  all  furs  to 


1 86 1,  the  Company  for  whatever  the  Company  chose  to  give,  in 
goods.  On  the  latter  the  Company  charged  42  per  cent 
freight  in  trading  and  33  per  cent  on  all  sold  to  em- 
ployes. The  price  for  groats  was  $  1. 00  per  pood  of  36  lbs.  ; 
for  white  flour,  $  2.00  per  pood.  The  yearly  imports  were 
400  tons.  At  Sitka,  all  servants  of  the  Company  whose  pay 
was  less  than  $  200  a  year  drew  from  the  public  kettle  and 
bake-house  at  $  i.oo  a  pood  for  bread.  The  fare  consisted 
principally  of  fish  ;  bacon  and  wild  goats'  flesh  were  rarely 
obtained.  They  were  also  allowed  eight  cups  of  rum  per 
annum.  Married  men  who  did  not  wish  to  eat  at  the  public 
table  could  draw  the  value  of  the  food  in  cash,  and  purchase 
their  own  provisions. 

The  hierarchy  of  the  colonies  had  its  head-quarters  at 
Sitka.  There  were  seven  missionary  districts  ;  namely, 
Sitka,  Kadiak,  Unalashka,  Atka,  Kenai,  Nushergak,  and 
Kwikhpak.  The  churches  were  supported  by  voluntary 
offerings.  Their  accumulated  capital  amounted  in  i860  to 
50,000  R.  s.,  bringing  five  per  cent  interest.  The  Com- 
pany contributed,  toward  the  support  of  four  churches, 
the  sum  of  $6,600  per  annum.  The  Holy  Synod  paid 
3,085  R.  s.  toward  the  Kenai  mission.  The  income  from  can- 
dles in  the  churches  amounted  to  5  1,100.  There  were  11 
priests  and  16  deacons  in  the  colonies.  A  church  was 
established  for  the  natives  at  Sitka,  but  they  were  seldom 
seen  there.  When  they  did  enter  they  looked  bewildered, 
squatted  down  and  smoked,  and  went  out  apparently  much 
relieved.  In  1846  there  were  531  Christian  Thlinkets.  In 
1854  the  number  was  diminished  to  38,  and  in  1859  there 
were  only  42.  The  Aleuts  appear  zealous  Christians,  but  if 
the  Government  ordered  them  to  become  Mohammedans 
they  would  as  readily  comply.  They  were  utterly  crushed 
by  the  early  traders. 

The  first  school  was  established  by  Shclikoff  in  Kadiak 
to  teach  the  natives  to  read  ;  the  traders  were  the  teachers. 
The  second  school  was  also  in  Kadiak,  and  the  pupils  re- 
ceived instruction  in  the  Russian  language,  arithmetic,  and 
religion.  A  few  years  after,  a  similar  one  was  opened  at 
Sitka,  but  until  1820  it  was  very  poor.     In  that  year  a  naval 


II  l''"^l 


HISTORY. 


1861.  officer  took  charge  of  it  until  1833,  when  it  fell  into  the 
hands  of  I'!tolin,  who  made  it  quite  efficient.  In  1841  an 
ecclesiastical  school  was  opened  in  Sitka,  and  in  1845  it  wa> 
raised  to  the  rank  of  a  seminary.  This,  as  well  as  the  other  | 
schools,  was  in  a  very  bad  condition.  In  the  latter,  pupil: 
received  instruction  in  the  Russian  language,  religion,  arith| 
metic,  geometry,  navigation,  trigonometry,  geography,  his- 
tory, bookkeeping,  and  the  English  language. 

In  the  ukase  of  November  ';,  1859,  ^  pkin  for  a  general  I 
colonial  school  was  approved.     It  was  opened  in  i860  with 
twelve  pupils;  eight  of  these  were  educated  for  the  Coni-| 
pany's  service,  and  four  were  the  sons  of  priests.    A  few  day- 
scholars  were  admitted  free.    After  five  years'  study  the  Com- 
pany's students  were  obliged  to  serve  the  C(  nipany  for  fifteen  I 
years,  at  a  salary  of  $  20  to  $  70  per  annum.    (It  is  to  be  hoped 
that  the  announcement  of  these  facts    vill  enlighten   those 
philanthropists  who  have  declared,  since  the  purchase,  tliat| 
the  United  States  were  depriving  the  natives  of  the  advan- 
tages  which    the    Company   had    afforded    them    of  a  free! 
education.     The  only  free  schools  in  the  territory  were  thosel 
of  the  missionaries,  and  in  them  were  taught  little  beside  the! 
religious  observances  of  the  Greek  Church,  and  the  art  ot 
reading  the  Sclavonic  or  ecclesiastical  characters.)     The  an-| 
nual  cost  of  this  school  was  $5,800;  in  1862  it  contained  2]\ 
pupils,  of  whom   only  one  was  a  native.     Only  nine  studieiij 
navigation.     In  1839  a  girls'  school  was  established  for  chi] 
dren  of  servants  of  the  Company,  and  orphans.     In  1842  itl 
had  42  pupils  ;  in  1862,  22  pupils.    The  instruction  was  prin-j 
cipally  in  sewing,  washing,  and  other  housework.     In   182 
Father  Veniamfnoff  established  a  school  in  Unalashka  fori 
natives  and  Creoles.     In   i860  it  contained  50  boys  and  4:| 
girls.     A  school  on   Amlia  Island  in    i860  had   30  pupilij 
The  priest  at  Nushergak  in  1843  had  12  pupils.    A  school-j 
house  was  built  on  the  Lower  Yukon,  but  there  were  nc| 
pupils. 

The  expenses  for  medical  treatment  were  $9,000.  Therel 
was  a  hospital  at  Sitka  of  40  beds,  and  one  at  Kadiak  of  icj 
beds.  In  i860  there  were  entered  at  Sitka  14,000  patientsl 
of  whom  22  died.     At  Kadiak  there  were  550  entrijes  and  i-j 


HISTORY. 


;5 


JDJ 


it  fell  into  the 
it.  In  1841  an 
:1  in  1845  it  \va> 
veil  as  the  other 
the  latter,  pupils 
I,  religion,  arith- 

geography,  his- 

;e. 

in  for  a  genera! 
led  in  i860  with 
;d  for  the  Com- 
csts.  A  few  day- 
;'  study  the  Com- 
mpany  for  fifteen 
(It  is  to  be  hoped 

enlighten  those 
lie  purchase,  that 
ves  of  the  advan- 

them   of  a  free 
rritory  were  those 
tit  little  beside  the 
h,  and  the  art  ot 
•actcrs.)     The  an 
i2  it  contained  :; 
')nly  nine  studie 
lablished  for  ch'. 
bans.     In  1842  i: 
truction  was  prin- 
sework.     In   i>'^-: 
in  Unalashka  lo: 
d  50  boys  and  4; 

,0  bad   30  pupil; 

)upils.    A  school 

ut  there  were  iv 


re  $9,000.  Therel 
at  Kadiak  of  Kj 
10.  14,000  patient.-! 
550  entjixis  and  ij 


<H6\.  deaths.  A  hospital  for  skin  diseases  was  opened  at  Sitka, 
near  the  sulphur  springs.  The  water  contained  sulphur,  iron, 
chlorine,  and  manganese,  and  had  a  temperature  of  122^  I'ah- 
rcnheit.  There  was  an  asylum  for  the  infirm  and  poor,  and 
throe  or  four  old  servants  of  the  Company  received  pensions. 

In  1838  the  treaty  with  the  Hudson  Hay  Company  proved 
beneficial.  Previously  the  Russian  American  Company  had 
lost  by  it.  This  treaty  excluded  arms,  ammunition,  and  spir- 
its from  the  trade  with  the  natives.  But  in  March,  1851, 
the  Hudson  Hay  Company's  steamer  visited  the  islands,  and 
told  the  natives  that  they  would  sell  any  amount  of  the  pro- 
hibited articles  at  their  trading-posts.  This  killed  the  Rus- 
sian trade  with  those  tribes  which  inhabit  the  Alexander 
Archipelago.  Hostilities  were  frequent,  and  the  Russian 
Com\iany's  steamer  was  obliged  to  remain  at  Sitka  to  guard 
against  an  outbreak  of  the  natives.  In  i860,  Furuhelm  or- 
dered her  to  resume  her  trii)s  among  the  islands,  but  no  trade 
was  eftected.  Since  1850,  traders  from  the  Sandwich  Islands 
visited  the  Chukchecs  and  tribes  on  the  northern  coast,  and 
provided  them  with  liquor,  arms,  and  ammunition.  The  na- 
tives of  the  interior  of  Siberia  now  received  supplies  through 
the  Chukchees,  who  would  not  trade  for  other  articles. 
Traders  even  landed  on  the  Aleutian  Islands,  in  defiance  of 
the  rights  of  the  Company.  The  trade  with  the  towns  in 
Kamchatka  was  worth  little  since  the  government  had  with- 
drawn the  garrisons.  At  the  mouth  of  the  Amoor,  Amer- 
ican and  German  traders  competed  with  the  Company  suc- 
cessfully. Golovi'n  was  justly  indignant  at  the  sale  of  liquor 
by  the  traders,  and  proposed  that  the  Imperial  government 
should  send  a  cruiser  to  stop  their  traffic,  or  that  the  Com- 
pany should  be  allo\ved  to  trade  liquor  in  opposition  to  them. 
From  1852  to  i86o  there  had  been  20,554  to"^  of  ice,  valued 
at  $  122,000,  exported  from  the  colonics.  The  fish  and  tim- 
ber trade  had  not  been  successful,  on  account  of  there  being 
no  Company's  storehouses  in  San  Francisco.  Golovi'n  con- 
cluded with  a  sharp  rebuke  of  the  lazy  and  inefficient  mis- 
sionaries who  had  succeeded  Veniami'noff,  and  finished  by 
numerous  recommendations  of  much  needed  reforms. 

His  Report  was  published  in  the  Official  Naval  Journal 
33 


p 


nil 


Hllf; 


!■< 


iiilHi 


11  = 

...I  ' 


,i.l 


354 


HISTORY. 


1861.  (Morskoi  Sbornik)  in  1862,  aiul  the  general  tone  of  it  was 
favorable  to  the  C'ompany.  Kashevarolf,  a  Creole,  resident 
in  St.  I'etersburs.  prepared  a  reply  ;  but  as  Ciolov/n  diid 
in  March,  he  modified  it,  that  he  nii^dit  not  be  accused  ci 
attaekiiifjf  a  dead  man.  A  flippant  reply,  reflectinf;  on  his 
parentage,  appeared  in  the  Naval  Journal.  This  was  fol- 
lowed by  a  letter  from  Haron  Wrangell,  who  said,  that 
though  he  was  prejudiced  in  favor  of  the  Company,  and 
Mr.  Kasheviiroff  appeared  to  incline  the  other  way,  still  he 
must  indorse  Kashevaroff's  statements  as  being,  from  his 
own  observation,  more  literally  true  and  patriotic  than  any- 
thing before  published  in  regard  to  the  country. 

1862.  The  result  of  this  ventilation  of  the  abuses  prevalent  in 
the  colonies,  was,  that  the  new  charter  was  not  granted  and 
the  old  charter  of  the  Russian  American  Company  was  not 
renewed.  From  this  time  forward  the  Company  had  no 
rights  or  privileges  in  the  colonies  except  on  sufferance, 
The  property  of  the  Company  still  belonged  to  it,  but  it  had 
no  rights  or  privileges  that  were  not  common  to  all  Rus- 
sian subjects,  and  none,  except  the  interest  in  their  movable 
property  and  real  estate  actually  in  use,  which  they  had  any 
power  to  convey  to  any  other  company  or  persons  from 
that  time  forward.  Their  operations,  it  is  true,  a.A  far  a^ 
trading  was  concerned,  '"^nt  on  without  cessation,  but  thi> 
was  only  pending  the  geneia.  ..'  -''ng  up  of  the  concern. 
The  schools  were  all  stopped,  expenses  curtailed,  many 
posts  abandoned,  and  the  General  Direction  of  the  colonics 
was  put  in  charge  of  an  officer  appointed  by  the  Imperial 
government.  This  officer  did  nca  p.rrivj  immediately,  and 
the  post  was  filled  during  the  inter;  cgnum  by  subordinate 
officers  of  the  Company. 

Golovi'n,  having  returned  to  Russia,  died  in  St.  Petersburg 
on  the  17th  of  March,  aged  thirty-nine  years.  Michael  Kut- 
kan,  again  elected  tyone  by  the  Sitka  Thlinkets,  was  au- 
thorized by  an  Imperial  ukase  to  settle  the  difficulties  be- 
tween the  natives  and  the  Russians,  December  2d.  A 
serious  disagreement  with  the  Hudson  Bay  Company  arose, 
caused  by  the  continued  sale  of  liquor  by  that  Company  to 
the  natives. 


•- 


1863. 


1 

ti 
K 

P 
tl 

P: 

til 
Pi 


1864. 


te 

b) 
th 

St 
of 
idt 
Ui 
Th 
an 
ex] 
lat^ 
pli: 


I86v 


the 
ley 
Sitl 
the 
offi, 
Cai 
Rol 


HISTORY. 


355 


1863.  Strachan  Jones,  Hsq.,  descended  the  Yukon  to  Nowikdkat. 
Ivan    Simonscn    Lukeen    ascended    the    Yukon    to    I'^orl 

Yukon,  and  returned  to  St.  Michael's,  Norton   Sound. 

The  new  ice  contract  was  finally  arranged  by  Captain 
l''uruhelni.  The  Russian  authorities  were  to  furnish  3,000 
tons  of  ice  annually  at  $  7  per  ton,  delivered  at  Sitka  or 
Kadiak  ;  but  not  to  any  other  than  the  San  Trancisco  Com- 
pany, on  the  coast  of  Oregon,  California,  or  Mexico,  at  less 
than  5  25  per  ton.  Sitka  having  too  mild  a  climate  to  form 
good  ice,  or  in  sufficient  quantities,  the  depot  of  the  Ice  Com- 
pany was  fi.xed  on  Woody  Island  near  Kadiak. 

An  expedition  under  Commander  Hassarguine  ascended 
the  Stikine  River  in  boats.  They  were  accompanied  by 
Professor  William  P.  lilake. 

1864.  rWruhelm  was  succeeded  by  Maksiitoff,  the  first  Imperial 
(iovernor  of  the  colonies.  The  plan  for  building  a  line  of 
telegraph  from  San  Francisco  to  Bering  Strait,  and  crossing 
by  a  cable,  to  meet  the  Russian  government  telegraph  at 
the  mouth  of  the  Amoor  River  by  a  line  built  from  Bering 
Strait  overland,  was  organized  by  the  enterprising  Directors 
of  the  Western  Union  Telegraph  Company.  The  original 
idea  was  mainly  due  to  Perry  M'D.  Collins,  Esq.,  formerly 
United  States  Consular  Agent  it  the  mouth  of  the  Amoor. 
The  co-operation  of  the  Russi.-  government  was  insured, 
and  the  command  of  the  expedition  to  make  the  necessary 
explorations  was  intrusted  to  Captain  Charles  S.  Bulkley, 
late  of  the  United  Slates  Army  Telegraph  Corps,  an  accom- 
plished electrician. 

1865.  The  principal  event  of  the  year  was  the  inauguration  of 
the  Western  Union  Telegraph  ICxpedition.  Captain  Bulk- 
ley,  in  the  United  States  revenue  cutter  Shubrick,  visited 
Sitka  early  in  the  spring.  On  his  return  to  San  Francisco 
the  expedition  was  organized  on  a  military  basis.  The  chief 
officers  were  Captain  Charles  S.  Bulkley,  Kngineer-in-Chief ; 
Captain  Charles  M.  Scammon,  U.  S.  R.  S.,  Chief  of  Marine; 
Robert  Kennicott,  Chief  of  Scientific  Corps;  Scott  R.  Chap- 
pel,  Quartermaster;  George  M.  Wright,  Adjutant;  and 
Frank  L.  Pope,  Assistant  Engineer.  Commissions  were 
given  to  the  various  officers  ;  flags  and  badges  served  to  dis- 


m 


ii 


K  '- 


I '    '■' 


'i  !■:  I 


m 


iiii'i 


I  ill 


II 


J56 


HISTORY. 


1865.  tinguish  the  tlifforent  branches  of  the  service.  A  steamer, 
three  barks,  and  a  schooner  were  purchased  for  the  use  of 
the  expedition,  and,  by  permission  of  the  Secretary  of  the 
United  States  Treasury,  two  revenue  officers.  Lieutenant 
John  Davison  and  Lieutenant  Russell  Glover,  accompanied 
Captain  Scammon  on  the  flag-ship,  which  was  permitted 
to  fly  the  revenue  flag. 

On  the  17th  of  May,  ]\Lnjor  Frank  Pope,  Dr.  J.  T.  Roth- 
rock  and  party,  with  Edward  Scoville,  Esq.,  as  astronomer, 
left  San  Francisco  for  British  Columbia  with  the  intention  of 
penetrating  from  the  head-waters  of  the  Frazer  to  those  of 
the  Yukon. 

On  the  3d  of  July,  Major  S.  Abasa  (Gentleman  of  the  Red- 
chamber  to  the  Emperor  of  Russia),  with  George  Kennan, 
James  A.  Mahood,  and  Richard  J.  Rush,  sailed  for  the  mouth 
of  the  Amoor  in  the  brig  Olga,  Captain  Sandtmann.  Their 
efibrts  were  to  be  directed  to  exploration  of  a  line  on  which 
the  telegraph  might  be  built,  from  the  mouth  of  the  Amoor 
to  the  Anadyr  River,  around  the  Ochotsk  Sea, 

On  the  12th  of  July  the  steamer  George  S.  Wright  ami 
the  bark  Golden  Gate,  flag-ship  of  the  expedition,  sailed 
from  San  Francisco,  with  most  of  the  officers  and  men. 

The  Wright,  Captain  Marston,  touched  at  Victoria  and 
New  Westminster.  Here  Frederick  Whympcr,  Esq.,  \va5 
added  to  the  expedition  as  artist.  The  steamer  then  pro- 
ceeded to  Sitka,  where  she  met  the  Golden  Gate.  From  tlii> 
point  the  schooner  Milton  Badger,  Captain  ILarding,  sailed 
for  the  Anadyr  River,  with  a  party  under  Lieutenant  McRae, 
who  were  to  co-operate  with  Major  Abasa's  party.  Tlw 
bark  Clara  Bell,  Captain  Sands,  was  at  Sitka  with  telegraphic 
material,  having  made  a  remarkably  quick  passage  Iroiii 
New  York.  iM-om  this  point  she  repaired  to  New  Westmin- 
ster. The  Wright,  Captain  Marston,  and  the  Golden  Gate 
Captain  Scammon,  after  a  .short  stay  in  Sitka,  sailed  in  com- 
pany for  Unga  Island.  There  they  spent  a  day  in  the  north 
harbor,  and  then  sailed  for  St.  Michael's  Redoubt,  Norton 
Sound.  Here  Major  Robert  Kennicott  and  party  were  leti 
to  conduct  the  Yukon  explorations.  A  toy  steamer,  whici! 
afterward  proved  worthless,  was  left  to  assist  in  ascendin;.;  ih' 


m 


HISTORY. 


357 


ice.  A  steamer, 
1  for  the  use  of 
Secretary  of  the 
;er~.,  Lieiilciiant 
'cr,  accompanied 
was   permitted 

Dr.  J.  T.  Roth- 
,,  as  astronomer, 
I  the  intention  ol 
azer  to  those  ot 

eman  of  the  Bed 
George  Kcnnan, 
ed  for  the  mouth 
iidtmann.  Their 
f  a  Une  on  which 
ath  of  the  Amoo: 
ea. 

e  S.  Wright  am; 

'xpedition,    sailoi 

cers  and  men. 

at  Victoria  am! 

mpcr,  Esq.,  wa- 

earner  then  pio- 

ate.     From  tbi^ 

Harding,  sailed 

eutenant  McRac, 

sa's   party.     Tlic 

with  telegraphic 

passage   froiv, 

0  New  VVestniin- 
he  Golden  Gate 
a,  sailed  in  corn- 
day  in  the  north 
Redouht,  Norton  I 

1  party  were  let!| 
y  steamer,  whicli 

in  ascend  in  IT  the 


icS65.  Yukon.  The  Golden  Gate  and  the  steamer  next  touched 
at  Plover  Bay,  where  the  bark' Balmetto,  Captain  Ander- 
son, had  arrived  with  coal.  The  latter  sailed  for  San  Fran- 
cisco, and  the  steamer  went  to  the  mouth  of  the  Anadyr, 
and  then  to  Petropavlovsk,  where  the  Golden  Gate  rejoined 
her.  After  a  long  stay  in  this  the  principal  port  of  Kam- 
chatka, both  vessels  sailed  for  San  Francisco,  arriving  there 
November  30th.  Pope's  party  wintered  at  Tatla  Lake,  British 
Columbia. 

Abasa's  party  explored  a  route  for  the  line  from  the 
Anadyr  to  the  Amoor. 

Kennicott's  party  crossed  the  portage  to  NuUito.  Baron 
Otto  de  Bendeleben  ami  W.  11.  ICnnis  explored  the  line  be- 
tween Norton  Bay  and  Port  Clarence.  J.  T.  Dyer  and 
Richard  D.  Cotter  made  a  very  hazardous  and  successful  ex- 
ploration of  the  country  between  Norton  Bay  and  the  mouth 
of  the  Koyi'ikuk  River  on  the  Yukon. 

In  this  season,  M.  Gustave  Lambert,  a  French  hydrogra- 
pher,  passed  through  Bering  Strait  on  a  whaler. 
1866  On  the  13th  of  May,  INLajor  Robert  Kennicott,  a  well- 
known  and  indefatigable  Arctic  explorer  and  naturalist,  died 
at  Nuhito  of  heart  disease  brought  on  by  excessive  privation, 
hardship,  and  anxiety.  His  body  was  taken  to  the  Redoubt 
by  a  party  under  Charles  Pease.  I'rank  K.  Ketchum,  Mi- 
chael Lebarge,  and  Ivan  Simonsen  Lukethi  carried  out  Ma- 
jor Kennicott's  plans,  explored  the  Yukon  from  Nulato  to 
I'^ort  Yukon,  and  returu'-.l,  crossing  the  portage  from  \'akutz- 
kakitenik  to  Unalaklik  and  thence  1)V  sea  to  the  Redoubt. 

Explorations  by  Major  Pope  and  party  were  extended  to 
the  Stiki'ne  River.* 

The  bark  Rutgers  sailed  from  Puget  Sound  to  Plover 
Bay.     The  bark    Onward  sailed    to   Petrop.lvlovsk   and    the 


njuist 


op 
Ochotsk    Sea.     The   bark    Clara   Bell    sailed   for    IV 
Culf     The  bark  Golden  Gate  sailed  for  Plover  Bay.     The 
Wright  wen'.   '      Petropavlovsk,  where  the  Russian  corvette 


anas: 


wen 

was  awa 
cisco 


iting  orders.  The  flag-ship  Nightingale  left 
San  Francisco  July  nth,  for  Plover  Bay,  The  United  States 
steamer  Saginaw  sailed  for  Petropavlovsk.    The  bark  l-'velyn 

l'iii<'  anuitcly  I  am  without  ilata  to  siiCLif)  the  c.  act  LXteut  of  these  explorations. 


t  'I 


ill  iiiiiiHi  'i 
I!';;  111.::: 


358 


HISTORY. 


1866.  Wood  f  niled  with  material  from  Victoria  to  Plover  Bay.  The 
Nightingale,  Captain  Scammon,  with  two  small  stcrn-wheel 
steamers  on  deck,  arrived  at  Plover  Bay  August  14th,  finding 
the  Rutgers  there.  The  Wright  left  Petropavlovsk,  touched 
at  the  Anadyr,  and  reached  Plover  Bay  August  18th.  The 
Golden  Gate  arrived  on  the  27th.  A  party  under  Mr.  Bush, 
who  had  come  on  the  steamer  to  Plover  Bay,  left  for  Anadyr 
on  the  Golden  Gate.  A  party  under  Mr.  Kelsey  was  left  at 
Plover  Bay.  Another,  under  Mr.  Libby,  sailed  for  Grantley 
Harbor  on  the  Rutgers.  The  Wright  and  Nightingale  left 
for  St.  Michael's,  where  the  latter  arrived  on  the  24th  of 
September.  The  subsequent  explorations  in  that  vicinity 
are  narrated  at  length  elsewhere.  The  vessels  returned  to 
San  Francisco,  with  the  exception  of  the  Golden  Gate,  which 
was  nipped  by  the  pack  in  Anadyr  Bay  and  lost.  The  nego- 
tiations for  the  sale  of  Russian  America  began  in  this  year.* 

1867.  The  Western  Union  Telegraph  Company,  finding  that  the 
Atlantic  Cable  had  proved  a  success,  at  an  expenditure 
which  made  competition  impossible,  decided  to  abandon  an 
enterprise  which  had  already  cost  in  the  neighborhood  of 
three  millions  of  dollars.  Michael  Byrnes  (who  was  explor- 
ing the  Tahco)  and  other  explorers  were  recalled,  the  Night- 
ingale and  the  Clara  Bell  were  sent  to  bring  back  the  more 
remote  parties  at  the  Anadyr,  Grantley  Harbor,  and  St. 
Michael's. 

The  route  was  ill  chosen  for  the  proposed  line.  Had  it 
been  over  the  well-trodden  paths  from  St.  Paul,  Minnesota, 
through  the  Hudson  Bay  Territory  to  Fort  Yukon,  and  then 
down  the  Yukon,  there  is  reason  to  believe  that  the  line  might 
have  been  built  at  a  less  cost  than  the  amount  wasted  on  the 
west  coast,  in  the  mountainous  region  and  dense  forests  of 
British  Columbia.  The  Hudson  Bay  route  was  recommended 
by  Mr.  Kennicott,  but  other  counsels  prevailed.  Of  other 
causes  which  tended  to  obstruct  and  defeat  the  intentions  ot 
the  Company  it  is  not  in  my  province  to  speak.  The  line 
which  was  put  up  in  British  Columbia,  with  the  exception 

*  There  is  a  story,  witli  I  know  not  how  much  foundation,  that  a  company  of  citi- 
zens applied  to  Mr.  Scwanl  to  assist  them  in  purchasing  the  country  to  carry  <m  J 
fish,  fur,  and  timber  trade,  and  that  he,  finding  Russia  willing  to  sell,  secured  the  I" 
ritory,  not  for  the  private  company,  but  for  the  nation. 


i 


I  1 


HISTORY. 


359 


lover  Bay.  The 
lall  stcrn-whcel 
ist  14th,  finding 
vlovsk,  touched 
just  18  th.    The 
inder  Mr.  Bush, 
left  for  Anadyr 
;lsey  was  left  at 
ed  for  Grantlcy 
Nightingale  leli 
on  the  24th  of 
in    that  vicinity 
sels  returned  to 
den  Gate,  which 
lost.     The  nego- 
m  in  this  year.* 
finding  that  the 
an    expenditure 
d  to  abandon  an 
neighborhood  of 
(who  was  explor- 
;alled,  the  Night- 
o;  back  the  more 
Harbor,  and  St, 

ed  line.     Had  it 

Paul,  Minnes-^ta, 

Yukon,  and  then 

lat  the  line  might 

nt  wasted  on  the 

dense  forests  ot 

as  recommended 

ailed.     Of  other 

the  intentions  ol 

;neak.     The  line 

h  the  exception 

liat  a  company  of  ciii' 

country  to  carry  mi  a 

sell,  secured  the  I" 


1867.  of  the  very  small  portion  in  use,  is  said  on  good  authority 
to  be  already  out  of  repair  and  quite  useless.  That  which 
was  erected  on  Norton  Sound  was  so  poorly  built  that  in  the 
fall  of  1867  not  a  single  pole  stood  erect  and  perpendicular. 

In  the  failure  of  the  commercial  part  of  the  enterprise  it 
must  still  be  a  matter  for  congratulation  that  the  liberal  policy 
of  the  Directors  of  the  Company  enabled  much  geographical 
and  scientific  information  to  be  obtained  without  any  large 
additional  expense.  For  this  liberality  the  thanks  of  all 
scientific  men  are  due  to  these  gentlemen. 

On  Ihe  30th  of  March  the  treaty  of  sale  was  agreed  upon. 
It  was  ratified  by  the  United  States  May  28th  ;  exchanged 
in.'  proclaimed  by  the  President  of  the  United  States,  June 
.  .  -67.  On  the  6th  of  September,  1867,  General  Jefier- 
son  C.  Davis,  U.  S.  A.,  was  appointed  commander  of  the 
military  district  of  Alaska.  On  the  iSth  of  October  the 
territory  was  formally  surrendered  by  the  colonial  authori- 
ties to  General  Lovell  H.  Rousseau,  U.  S.  A.,  who  had  been 
appointed,  August  8th,  United  States  Commissioner  to  re- 
ceive the  territory. 


NOTES  AND  DOCUMENTS  ACCOMPANYING  THE  TRANSFER. 

[A.] 

By  /'.  '  1  nslJcnt  of  the  United  States  of  America. 

A    PROCLAMATION. 

Whereas,  a  tr^  Jv  oetween  the  United  States  of  America  and  his 
Majesty  the  Empen  ■  c*"  ill  the  Russiiis,  was  concluded  and  sij;ned  by 
their  respective  plenipotentiaries  at  the  city  of  Washington,  on  the  thir- 
tieth day  of  March  l.st,  which  treaty  (being  in  the  English  and  Erench 
languages)  is,  word  ''or  word,  as  follows:  — 

Tiie  United  Str.tcs  of  America  and  his  Majesty  the  Emperor  of  all 
tlie  Russias,  beinj,  desirous  of  strengtliening,  if  possible,  the  good  under- 
standing whicii  exists  between  them,  have,  for  tiiat  purpose,  appointed 
as  their  jil''  ii  tcntiarics  :  the  President  of  the  United  States,  William 
11.  Seward,  !^  ;t'ry  of  State  ;  and  his  Majesty  the  Emperor  of  all  the 
Russias,  the  i.^  y  Cou.isellor  EdwaM  de  Stoeckl,  his  envoy  extraor- 
dinary and  minister  plenipotentiary  to  the  United  States. 


!  lijl  j| 


I 


ill 


i|:|il 


i!iin>' 


360 


HISTORY. 


And  the  said  plenipotentiaries,  having  exchanged  their  full  powers, 
which  were  found  to  be  in  due  form,  have  agreed  upon  and  signed  the 


following  articles; 


Article  I. 


His  Majesty  the  Emperor  of  all  the  Russias  agrees  to  cede  to  the 
United  States,  by  this  convention,  immediately  upon  the  exchange  of 
the  ratifications  thereof,  all  the  territory  and  dominion  now  possessed  by 
his  said  Majesty  on  the  continent  of  America  and  in  the  adjacent  is! 
ands,  the  same  being  contained  within  the  geographical  limits  herein  set 
forth,  to  wit :  The  eastern  limit  is  the  line  of  demarcation  between  the 
Russian  and  the  Br.'b'i  possessions  in  North  America,  as  established 
by  the  convention  bet'  f  ;ssia  and  Great  Britain,  of  February  28-16, 

1825,  and  described  in  les  III  and  IV  of  said  convention,  in  the 

following  terms  :  — 

"  Commencing  from  the  southernmost  point  of  the  island  called  Prince 
of  Wales  Island,  which  point  lies  in  the  parallel  of  54  degrees  40  minutes 
north  latitude,  and  between  the  131st  and  the  133d  degree  of  west  lon- 
gitude (meridian  of  Greenwich),  the  said  line  shall  ascend  to  the  north 
along  the  channel  called  Portland  Channel,  as  far  as  the  point  of  the 
continent  where  it  strikes  the  56th  degree  of  north  latitude;  from  this 
last-mentioned  point,  the  line  of  demarcation  shall  follow  the  summit  of 
the  mountains  situated  parallel  to  the  coast  as  far  as  the  point  of  inter- 
section of  the  141st  degree  of  west  longitude  (of  the  same  meridian); 
and  finally,  from  the  said  point  of  intersection,  the  said  meridian  line  of 
the  141st  degree,  in  its  prolongation  as  far  as  the  Frozen  Ocean. 

"  IV.  With  reference  to  the  line  of  demarcation  laid  down  in  the 
preceding  article,  it  is  understood  — 

"  ist.  That  the  island  called  Prince  of  Wales  Island  shall  belong 
wholly  to  Russia  (now,  by  this  cession,  to  the  United  States). 

"  2(1.  That  whenever  the  summit  of  the  mountains  which  extend  in 
a  direction  parallel  to  the  coast  from  the  56th  degree  of  north  latitude  to 
the  point  of  intersection  of  the  141st  degree  of  west  longitude  shall  prove 
to  be  at  the  distance  of  more  than  ten  marine  leagues  from  the  ocean. 
the  limit  between  the  British  possessions  and  the  line  of  coast  which  is 
to  belong  to  Russia  as  above  mentioned  (that  is  to  say,  the  limit  to  the 
possessions  ceded  by  this  convention)  shall  be  formed  by  a  line  parallel 
to  the  winding  of  the  coast,  and  which  shall  never  exceed  the  distance 
of  ten  marine  leagues  therefrom." 

The  western  limit,  within  which  the  territories  and  dominion  con 
veyed  are  contained,  passes  through  a  point  in  Piering's  Straits  on  the 
parallel  of  sixty-five  degrees  thirty  minutes  north  latitude,  at  its  inter- 


full  powers,   R 

1  signed  the  ■[ 

)  cede  to  the  I 

exchange  of   H 

possessed  by  f 

i  adjacent  isl    i 

lits  herein  set   K 

HISTORY. 


361 


section  by  the  meridian  which  passes  midway  between  the  island  of 
Kriiscnstern  for  Ignalook,  and  the  island  of  Ratmanoft"  or  Noonarbook, 
and  proceeds  due  north,  without  limitation,  into  the  same  Frozen  Ocean. 
The  same  western  limit,  beginning  at  the  same  initial  point,  proceeds 
thence  in  a  course  nearly  southwest,  through  Bering's  Straits  and  Bering's 
Sea,  so  as  to  pass  midway  between  the  northwest  point  of  the  island  of 
St.  Lawrence  and  the  southeast  point  of  Cape  Chukotski,  to  the  merid- 
ian of  one  hundred  and  seventy-two  west  longitude ;  thence,  from  the 
intersection  of  that  meridian,  in  a  southwesterly  direction,  so  as  to  pass 
midway  between  the  island  of  Attu  and  the  Copper  island  of  the  Koman- 
dorski  couplet  or  group  in  the  North  Pacific  ocean,  to  the  meridian  of  one 
hLindied  and  ninety-three  degrees  west  longitude,  so  as  to  include  in  the 
territory  conveyed  the  whole  of  the  Aleutian  islands  east  of  that  meridian. 

Article  II. 

In  the  cession  of  territory  and  dominion  made  by  the  preceding 
article  is  included  the  right  of  property  in  all  public  lots  and  squares, 
vacant  lands,  and  all  public  buildings,  fortifications,  barracks,  and  other 
edifices  which  are  not  private  individual  property.  It  is,  however, 
understood  and  agreed,  that  the  churches  which  have  been  built  in  the 
ceded  territory  by  the  Russian  government  shall  remain  the  property  of 
such  members  of  the  Greek  Oriental  Church  resident  in  the  territory  as 
may  clioose  to  worship  therein.  Any  government  archives,  papers,  and 
documents  relative  to  the  territory  and  dominion  aforesaid,  which  may 
be  now  existing  there,  will  be  left  in  the  possession  of  the  agent  of  the 
United  States  ;  bul  rai  authenticated  copy  of  such  of  them  as  may  be 
required  will  be,  at  all  times,  given  by  the  United  States  to  the  Russian 
government,  or  to  such  Russian  officers  or  subjects  as  they  may  apply  for. 

Article  III. 

The  inhabitants  of  the  ceded  territory,  according  to  their  choice, 
reserving  their  natural  allegiance,  may  return  to  Russia  within  three 
years  ;  but  if  they  should  prefer  to  remain  in  the  ceded  territory,  they, 
with  the  exception  of  uncivilized  native  tribes,  shall  be  admitted  to  the 
enjoyment  of  all  the  rights,  advantages,  and  immunities  of  citizens  of  the 
United  States,  and  shall  be  maintained  and  protected  in  the  free  enjoy- 
ment of  their  liberty,  property,  and  religion.  The  uncivilized  tribes  will 
lie  subject  to  such  laws  and  regulations  as  the  United  States  may,  from 
lime  to  time,  adopt  in  regard  to  aboriginal  tribes  of  that  country. 

Article  IV. 
His  Majesty  the  Emperor  of  all  the  Russias  shall  appoint,  with  con- 


362 


HISTORY. 


vcnient  despatch,  an  agent  or  agents  for  the  purpose  of  formally  deliv- 
ering to  a  similar  agent  or  agents  appointed  on  behalf  of  the  United 
States,  the  territory,  dominion,  property,  dependencies,  and  appurte- 
nances wiiicli  are  ceded  as  above,  and  for  doing  any  otlier  act  which  may 
be  necessary  in  regard  thereto.  But  the  cession,  with  the  right  of  imme- 
diate possession,  is  nevertheless  to  be  deemed  complete  and  absolute  on 
the  exchange  of  ratifications,  without  waiting  for  such  formal  delivery. 

Article  V. 

Immediately  after  the  exchange  of  the  ratifications  of  this  conven- 
tion, any  fortifications  or  military  posts  which  may  be  in  the  ceded 
territory  shall  be  delivered  to  the  agent  of  the  United  States,  and  any 
Russian  troops  who  may  be  in  the  territory  shall  be  withdrawn  as  soon 
as  may  be  reasonably  and  conveniently  practicable. 

Article  VI. 

In  consideration  of  the  cession  aforesaid,  the  United  States  agree  to 
pay  at  the  treasury  in  Washington,  within  ten  months  after  the  exchange 
of  the  raiifications  of  this  convention,  to  the  diplomatic  representativi 
or  other  agent  of  his  Majesty  the  Emperor  of  all  the  Russias,  duly 
authorized  to  receive  the  same,  seven  million  two  hundred  thousand 
dollars  in  gold.  The  cession  of  territory  and  dominion  herein  made  is| 
hereby  declared  to  be  free  and  unincumbered  by  any  reservations, 
privileges,  franchises,  grqnts,  or  possessions,  by  any  associated  com- 
panies, whether  corporate  or  incorporate,  Russian,  or  any  other,  or  by  I 
any  parties,  cxcej:)!  merely  private  individual  property  holders  ;  and  the 
cession  hereby  made  conveys  all  the  rights,  franchises,  and  privileges, 
now  belonging  to  Russia  in  the  said  territory  or  dominion,  and  ap 
purtenances  thereto. 

Article  VII. 

When  this  convention  shall  have  been  duly  ratified  by  the  President  of 
the  United  States,  by  and  with  the  advice  and  consent  of  the  Senate  on 
the  one  part,  and  on  the  other  by  his  Majesty  the  Emperor  of  all  the  Ru 
sias,  the  ratifications  shall  be  exchanged  at  Washington  within  three 
months  from  the  date  hereof,  or  sooner,  if  possible. 

In  faith  whereof,  the  respective  plenipotentiaries  have   signed  thi; 
convention,  and  thereto  affixed  the  seals  of  their  arms. 

Done  at  Washington,  the  thirtieth  day  of  March,  in  the  year  of  oiii 
Lord  one  thousand  eight  hundred  and  sixty-seven. 

[l.  s.]  WILLIAM   H.    SEWARD. 

[l.  s.]  EDOUARD   DE   STOECKL. 


_tkm 


HISTORY. 


3<53 


formally  deliv- 

of  the  United 

and    appurtc- 

act  which  may 

right  of  imme- 

tnd  absolute  on 

mal  delivery. 


of  this  conven- 
e  in  the  ceded 
States,  and  any 
iidrawn  as  soon 


1  States  agree  to 
ter  the  exchangi: 
ic  representalivi 
he   Russias,  duly  1 
undred  thousand 
1  herein  made  is 
any  reservations, 
associated  com- 
any  other,  or  by  I 
lolders  ;  and  the  | 
s,  and  privileges, 
)minion,  and  apl 


ythe  President  of 
:  of  the  Senate  on 
;ror  of  all  the  RusI 
ton  within  tlireel 

have  signed  thi> 

n  the  year  of  oui| 

SEWARD. 
)E   STOECKL. 


And  whereas  the  said  treaty  has  been  duly  ratified  on  both  parts, 
and  the  respective  ratifications  of  the  same  were  exchanged  at  Washing- 
ton on  this  twentieth  day  of  June,  l)y  William  H.  Seward,  Secretary  of 
State  of  the  United  States,  and  the  I'rivy  Counsellor  Edward  de  Stocckl, 
the  envoy  extraordinary  of  his  Majesty  tiie  lunperor  of  all  the  Russias, 
on  the  part  of  their  respective  governments, 

Now,  therefore,  be  it  known  that  1,  Andrkw  Johnson,  President  of 
the  United  States  of  America,  have  caused  the  said  treaty  to  be  made 
public,  to  the  end  that  the  same  and  every  clause  and  article  thereof 
may  be  observeil  and  fulfilled  witli  good  faith  by  the  United  States  ami 
the  citizens  there  f. 

In  witness  whereof,  I  have  hereunto  set  my  hand,  and  caused  the 
sea!  of  the  United  States  to  be  affixed. 

Done  at  the  city  of  Washington  this  twentieth  day  of  June,  in  the 
year  of  our  Lord  one  thousand  eight  hundred  and  sixty-seven,  and  of 
the  independence  of  the  United  States  the  ninety-first. 

[l.  s.]  ■       ANDREW   JOHNSON. 

By  the  Presiilent : 

William  H.  Seward, 

Secretary  of  State. 


m 

Mr:  Seivard  to  Mr.  de  Stoeckl. 

Department  of  State, 
Washington,  March  23,  1867. 

Sir  :  —  With  reference  to  the  proposed  convention  between  our  re- 
Ispective  governments  for  a  cession  by  Russia  of  her  American  territory 

to  the  United  States,  I  have  the  honor  to  acquaint  you  that  I  must  insist 
[upon  that  clause  in  the  sixth  article  of  the  dr.aught  whicli  decla'es  ihe 
Iccssion  to  be  free  and  unincumbered  by  any  reservations,  privileges, 
[franchises,  grants,  or  possessions  by  any  associated  companies,  whether 
icorporate  or  incorporate,  Russian  or  any  other,  iS:c.,  and  must  regard  it 
las  an  ultimatum  ;  with  the  President's  approval,  however,  I  will  add  two 
pundrcd  thousand  dollars  to  the  consideration  money  on  that  account. 
I  avail  myself  of  this  occasion  to  offer  to  you  a  renewed  assurance 

of  my  most  distinguished  consideration. 

WILLIAM    H.    SEWARD, 

Secretary  of  State. 
Mr.  EmvARD  de  Stoeckl,  &c,,  &c.,  &c. 


!'!l 


♦    11:11  W 


1,1111 


I'd     :l'' 


)    n. 


» 


364 


HISTORY. 


[C] 


Mr,  de  Stoeckl  to  Mr.  Seward. 
[Translation.] 

Imperial  Legation  of  Russia  to  the  United  Statfs, 
Washington,  Marcli  25,  1867. 

Mr.  Secretary  of  State:  —  I  have  had  the  honor  to  receive  the 
note  which  you  were  pleased  to  address  to  me  on  the  3d  March,  1867, 
to  inform  me  that  the  Federal  government  insists  that  the  clause  inserted 
in  article  si.\th  of  the  project  of  convention  must  be  strictly  maintained, 
and  that  the  territory  to  be  ceded  to  the  United  States  must  be  free 
from  any  arrangement  and  privileges  conceded  either  by  government  or 
by  companies. 

In  answer,  I  believe  myself  authorized,  Mr.  Secretary  of  State,  to 
accede  literally  to  this  request  on  the  conditions  indicated  in  your 
note. 

Please  accept,  Mr.  Secretary  of  S  te,  the  assurances  of  my  very 
high  consideration. 


STOECKL. 


Hon.  William  H.  Seward, 

Secretary  of  State  of  the  United  States. 


[D.] 


Mr.  de  Stoeckl  to  Mr.  Seward. 
[Translation.] 

Washington,  March  17-29,  1867. 
Mr.  Secretary  of  State  :  —  I  have  the  honor  to  inform  you  that  by 
a  telegram  dated  16-28  of  this  month  from  St.  Petersburg,  Prince 
Gortchakoi'f  informs  me  that  his  Majesty  the  Emperor  of  all  the  Russias 
gives  his  consent  to  the  cession  of  the  Russian  possessions  on  the 
American  continent  to  the  United  States  for  the  stipulated  sum  of  seven 
million  two  hundred  thousand  dollars  in  gold,  and  that  his  Majesty  the 
Emperor  invests  me  with  full  powers  to  negotiate  and  sign  the  treaty. 

Please  accept,  Mr.  Secretary  of  State,  the  assurance  of  my  very  high 
consideration. 

STOECKL. 
Hon.  William  H.  Seward, 

Secretary  of  State  of  the  United  States. 


':       '  ' 


HISTORY. 


365 


es  of  my  very 


STOECKL. 


STOECKL. 


[E.] 
Mr.  Seward  to  Mr.  de  Stoeckl. 

DEPARTMr.NT  OF  STATE, 

Washington,  May  13,  1867. 
Sir  : — I  have  the  honor  to  inform  you  that  Brigadier  General  Lovell 
H.  Rousseau  has  been  appointed  by  the  President  the  commissioner 
on  the  part  of  the  United  States  >o  receive,  from  the  commissioner  ap- 
pointed on  behalf  of  his  Majesty  the  Emperor  of  all  the  Russias,  the 
territory  ceded  to  the  United  States  by  the  treaty  of  the  30th  of  March 
last.  A  copy  of  the  instructions  which  have  been  given  to  General 
Rousseau  for  his  guidance  in  executing  that  trust  is  herewith  communi- 
cated for  your  information  and  that  of  your  government. 

I  avail  myself  of  this  occasion,  sir,  to  offer  to  you  a  renewed  assur- 
ance of  my  most  distinguished  consideration. 

WILLIAM  H.  SEWARD, 

Secretary  of  State. 

Mr.  Edward  de  Stoeckl,  &c.,  &c.,  &c. 

[F.] 

Mr.  de  Stoeckl  to  Mr.  Savard. 

[Translation.] 

Washington,  August  13,  1867. 
Mr.  Secretary  of  State  :  —  I  have  the  honor  to  remit  to  you 
herewith  copy  of  the  instructions  given  to  Captain  Pestchouroff,  com- 
missioner of  the  Imperial  government  for  the  transfer  of  the  territory 
wiiich  formed  the  Russian  colonics  of  the  northwest  of  the  American 
continent. 

Please  accept,  Mr.  Secretary  of  State,  the  assurance  of  my  very  high 
consideration. 

STOECKL. 
Hon.  William  H.  Seward, 

Secretary  of  State  of  the  United  States. 

Translation  of  Instructions  given  to  Captain  Pestchouroff,  Commissioner  on 
the  part  of  the  Imperial  Russian  Government,  for  the  delivery  of  the 
Russian  American  Colonies  to  the  Government  of  the  United  States. 

I.  Captain  Pestchouroff  has  been  directed  to  proceed  to  Washington 
and  enter,  through  the  medium  of  the  Secretary  of  State  and  the  Russian 
minister,  into  communication  with  the  commissioner  appointed  by  the 


■'i   I 


366 


HISTORY. 


United  States  government  to  receive  the  said  colonies,  for  the  purpose 
of  establishing  an  understanding  as  to  the  said  transaction. 

2.  On  the  arrival  of  the  two  commissioners  at  New  Archangel, 
Sitka,  Captain  Pestchouroff  is  directed  to  proceed,  in  the  fust  place,  to 
thj  formal  transfer  of  the  territory  under  mutual  national  salutes. 

3.  All  the  forts  and  military  posts  will  be  delivered  at  once  to  the 
American  military  forces  that  may  follow  the  United  States  commis- 
sioner. Captain  Pestchouroff  will  take  the  necessary  steps  to  send 
home  the  Russian  troops  as  early  as  convenient  and  deliver  the  bar- 
racks to  the  use  of  the  American  soldiers. 

4.  The  public  buildings,  such  as  the  governor's  house,  the  buildings 
used  for  government  purposes,  dock  yard,  barracks,  hosjjitals,  schools, 
public  grounds,  and  all  free  lots  at  Sitka  and  Kadiak,  will  be  delivered 
by  Captain  Pestchouroff  to  the  American  commissioner  as  soon  as  prac- 
ticable. 

5.  All  the  houses  and  stores  forming  private  property  will  remain 
to  be  disposed  of  by  their  proprietors.  To  this  same  category  belong 
smiths',joiners',  coopers',  tanners',  and  other  similar  shops,  as  well  as  ice- 
houses, saw  and  flour  mills,  and  any  small  barracks  that  may  exist  on 
the  islands. 

6.  The  two  commissioners,  after  making  the  division  between  the 
property  to  be  transferred  to  the  American  government  and  tliat  left  to 
jjrivate  proprietors,  will  draw  up  a  protocol,  and  the  American  com- 
missioner, on  the  documents  furnished  by  the  local  Russian  authorities, 
will  deliver  legalized  certificates  to  the  owners  of  said  property  in  order 
to  enable  them  to  possess  that  property  or  otherwise  to  dispose  of  it. 

7.  The  churches  and  chapels  remain,  according  to  the  stipulations 
of  the  treaty,  the  property  of  the  members  of  the  Greco- Russian  com- 
munity. The  houses  and  lots  of  ground  which  were  granted  to  these 
churches  remain  their  property. 

8.  As  the  Russian  American  Company  possess  in  the  colonies  large 
stores  of  furs,  provisions,  and  other  goods,  at  present  distributed  in 
Sitka,  Kadiak,  and  other  stations  on  the  continent  and  islands,  they  wi'l 
require  a  certain  lapse  of  time  to  collect,  sell,  or  export  their  properly. 
For  that  purpose  the  company  will  leave  an  agent  or  agents  charged 
with  the  duty  of  settling  finally  their  affairs. 

It  is  hoped  that  the  Federal  government  will  allow  the  Russian 
American  Company  to  settle  finally  their  business,  without  subjecting 
their  property  or  their  agents  to  any  taxes  for  a  period  of  eighteen 
months,  or  at  least  one  year,  considering  that  the  same  property  has 
never  been  taxed  heretofore,  and  that  the  company,  under  the  present 
circumstances,  will  have  to  dispose  of  their  property  at  a  loss. 


HISTORY. 


367 


9.  In  the  settlement  of  all  the  affairs  in  connection  with  the  trans- 
fer of  the  territory,  Captain  Pestciiouroff  is  directed  to  proceed  in  tlie 
most  amicable  way,  and  the  Imperial  Russian  government  hopes  that 
the  authorities  of  the  United  States  will  be  guided  by  the  same  liberal 
views,  in  order  to  avoid  any  difficulties  and  to  complete  this  transaction 
in  the  spirit  of  the  friendly  relations  existing  between  the  two  govern- 
ments. 

[G.] 

Department  of  the  Interior, 
Washington,  1).  C  ,  October  26,   1867. 

Sir  :  —  In  reply  to  your  communication  of  the  24th  instant  in  relation 
to  attempts  of  American  citizens  to  acquire  pre-emption  rights  to  lands 
at  Sitka,  in  the  newly  acquired  Territory  of  Alaska,  I  have  the  honor  to 
enclose  for  your  information  a  copy  of  a  report  this  day  made  to  me  by 
the  Coir-^issioner  of  the  General  Land  Office  upon  the  subject  of  your 
inquiries.  Such  claims  and  settlements  are  not  only  without  the  sanc- 
tion of  law,  but  are  in  direct  violation  of  the  provisions  of  the  laws  of 
Congress  applicable  to  public  domain  secured  to  the  United  States  by 
any  treaty  made  with  a  foreign  nation ;  and,  if  deemed  necessary  and 
advisable,  military  force  may  be  used  to  remove  the  intruders. 

This  department  has  no  officers  at  Sitka,  nor  in  any  other  part  of 
the  "  Russian  purchase,"  and  must  rely  upon  the  State  Department  to 
cause  the  necessary  orders  in  the  premises  to  be  communicated  to  our 
authorities  there. 

I  have  the  honor  to  be,  very  respectfully,  your  obedient  servant, 

O.  H.  BROWNING,  Secretary. 
Hon.  William  H.  Seward,  Secretary  of  State. 


[H.l 

Department  of  the  Interior, 
General  Land  Office,  October  26,  1867. 

Sir:  —  I  have  the  honor  to  acknowledge  the  receipt  of  the  depart- 
ment letter  of  yesterday,  enclosing  a  communication  of  the  24th  from 
the  honorable  Secretary  of  State,  by  which  the  department  is  advised 
that  citizens  of  the  United  States  are  attempting  to  make  claims  and 
settlements  at  Sitka  within  the  "  Russian  purchase  "  under  the  town 
site  and  pre-emption  laws,  and  I  have  the  honor  to  state  that  such  set- 
tlements are  illegal  and  contrary  to  law.  See  act  of  March  3,  1807, 
Vol.  II.,  p.  445,  United  States  Statutes. 

In  the  absence  of  specific  legislation  by  Congress  providing  for  the 


Il 


368 


HISTORY. 


organization  of  land  districts  witliin  the  "  Russian  purchase,"  and  the 
extension  of  our  system  of  surveys  over  the  same,  settlements  and 
claims  under  the  town  site  and  pre-emption  laws  are  unlawful,  and 
cannot  ue  recognized  under  existing  laws. 

I  am,  sir,  very  resp'^ctfuUy,  your  obedient  servant, 

JOSEPH   S.    WILSON, 

Commissioner. 
Hon.  O.  H.  Rrownino, 

Secretary  of  the  Interior. 


m 


[I] 

Mr.  Seivard  to  General  Grant. 

DlU'ARTMF.NT  OF    STATE, 

Washington,  October  28,  1867. 
Gi'NERAL  :  —  In  the  absence  cf  specific  legislation  by  Congress  for  the 
organization  of  land  districts  in  Alaska,  claims  of  pre-emption  and  set 
tlements  are  MOt  only  without  the  sanction  of  law,  but  are  in  direct  vin 
lation  of  laws  applicable  to  the  public  domain.  Military  force  may  Ix- 
used  to  remove  intruders  if  necessary.  Will  you  have  the  goodness  tn 
instruct  Major  Cieneral  Halleck  to  this  effect  by  telegraph,  and  request 
him  to  communicate  the  instruction  to  Major  Cieneral  Rousseau  v. 
Sitka? 

I  have  the  honor  to  be.  General,  your  obedient  servant, 

WILLIAM    H.   SEWARD. 
Gensrai,  U.  S.  Grant, 

Secretary  of  War  ad  inkrim. 

I  J] 
Mr.  Seward  to  Mr.  de  Stoeckl. 

Department  of  State, 
Wa.shiiigton,  October  29,  1S67. 

Sir  :  —  I  have  the  honor  to  enclose  for  your  information  a  copy  of.i 
letter  of  yesterday  to  General  Grant,  the  Secretary  of  War  ad  iiitoim. 
embodying  an  instrujiion  which  the  President  has  directed  to  be  sent 
by  telegraph  to  Major  General  Halleck,  by  him  to  be  promptly  com 
municated  to  Major  General  Rousseau,  at  Sitka,  with  a  view  to  prevent 
ing  premature  and  illegal  attempts  to  occuj^y  land  in  Alaska. 

Accept,  sir,  a  renewed  assurance  of  my  very  high  consideration, 

WILLIAM    H.    SEWARD. 

Mr.  Edward  de  Stoeckl,  &c.,  &c.,  &c. 


HISTORY. 


369 


(Kl 

DKI'ARTMF.NT  ov  Stait., 
Washington,  September  6,  1867. 

Generai- :  —  In  relation  to  the  despatch  of  Major  (Jcncral  HalUvk, 
of  tlic  2(1  of  September,  inslant,  in  wliicii  he  re(iue>ts  that  the  President 
will  by  proclamation  declare  the  newly  acciuired  Russian  territory  an 
Indian  territory  in  order  to  prevent  the  introduction  of  ardent  spirits 
among  the  Indians  there,  I  am  instructed  to  say  that  the  President  will 
retain  the  same  for  further  consideration.  At  the  same  time  he  desires 
thu  Major  (leneral  Halleckwill  confer  with  Cleneral  Rousseau  upon  that 
suhjei t,  to  the  end  that  the  matured  views  of  those  oiticcis  n>ay  be  sub- 
niitled  to  the  President  as  early  as  practicable. 

I'or  the  information   of  the  War  Department,  I  communicate  a  copy 
of  an  opinion  of  E.  Peshine   Smitii,  Esq.,  K.\aminer  of  Claims  in  this 
(l.inrtment,  wiiich  sets  forth  a  view  of  the  laws  of  the   L'nitetl  States 
ijcariug  upon  that  question,  whicli  view  is  adopted  by  this  department. 
I  have  the  honor  to  be,  General,  your  obedient  servant, 

WILLIAM    II.    SEWARD. 

'      KRAL  U.  S.  Grant, 

Secretary  of  War  ad  interim. 

Official  : 

R.    WILLIAMS, 

Assistant  Ai/Jntant-  General. 


w 


Bureau  oi.-  Claims,  Scpicmbcr  5,  1867. 

Proclamation  that  the  territory  ceded  by  Russia  is  Indian  territory  : 

Su -h  a  proclamation  is  recommended  by  General  Halleck  in  order 
to  prevent  the  introduction  of  whiskey  among  the  Indians. 

Tiie  act  of  1834(4  Stat.  729),  "to  regulate  trade  and  intercourse 
with  the  Indian  tribes,"  provides  that  "  all  that  part  of  the  United 
dilates  west  of  the  Mississippi,  and  not  within  the  States  of  Missouri 
and  Louisiana  or  the  Territory  of  Arkansas,  *  *  *  *  for  the  purposes  of 
this  act  be  deemed  and  taken  to  be  the  Indian  country." 

The  (lueslion  is,  whether  the  provisions  of  that  act  in  respect  to 
trade  and  intercourse  with  Indians  are  to  be  restricted  to  their  operation 
in  the  Indian  country  which  was  within  the  United  States  at  the  time  of 
the  passage  of  t/ie  act,  ox  whQih&r  they  take  effect  and  apply  to  new  ter- 
ritory acquired  by  conquest  or  treaty,  without  any  further  legislation 
giving  them  such  extension. 

I  think  this  question  has  been  settled  by  the  Supreme  Court  of  the 
24 


W 


li 

!jt!l 


1^  :;j'^.: 


V  B 


m 


370 


HISTORY. 


United  States  in  the  case  of  Cross  vs.  Harrison  (16  Howard's  R.,  164. 
199).  The  question  there  was,  vvhether  upon  Mie  ratification  of  the 
treaty  for  the  cession  of  California  the  existing  several  laws  came  into 
operation  so  as  to  regulate  the  rate  of  duties  on  imported  goods  without 
any  act  of  Congress  declaring  their  will  in  thai  respect,  and  creating  col- 
lection districts.  The  court  held  that  the  ratification  of  the  treaty  mmle 
California  a  part  of  the  United  States,  and  that  so  soon  as  it  became  so 
the  territory  instantly  became  subject  to  the  acts  which  were  in  force  to 
regulate  foreign  commerce  with  the  Ignited  States. 

The  argument  was  urged  in  that  case  that  the  revenue  laws  applied 
only  to  the  territory  under  our  jurisdiction  when  they  were  passed,  until 
Congress,  by  creating  collection  distric'^  in  the  new  Territory,  or  some 
other  act  of  the  same  nature,  had  manifested  its  will  that  the  laws  should 
be  thus  applied.  That  argument  was  overruled  by  the  court,  and  it 
would,  therefore,  be  overruled  in  respect  to  Alaska  and  commerce  with 
the  Indian  tribes. 

I  think,  therefore,  that  the  new  territory  became  a  part  of  the  In- 
dian country  on  the  20th  June  last.  A  proclamation  by  ihe  IVesidcnf 
is  only  necessary  for  the  information  of  persons  going  into  the  territory 
of  the  restrictions  to  which  they  are  subject  in  their  intercourse  win 
Indians.  I  think,  however,  the  treaty  itself  may  work  some  change  .n 
the  existing  law.  For  instance,  one  of  the  provisions  is  that  no  license 
to  trade  with  the  Indians  shall  be  granted  to  any  persons  except  citizens 
of  the  United  States.  The  third  article  of  the  treaty  provides  that  the 
inhabitants  of  the  ceded  territory,  reserving  their  natural  allegiance,  may 
return  to  Russia  within  three  years,  but  if  they  prefer  to  remain  in  the 
territory  they  (with  the  exception  of  native  uncivilized  tribes)  shall  be 
admitted  to  the  enjoyment  of  all  the  rights,  a(l\antages,  and  immunities 
of  citizens  of  the  United  States.  While  it  may  be  that  they  cannot 
acquire  the  full  rights  of  American  citizenship  until  their  election  lias 
been  evidenced  by  remaining  three  years,  it  seems  to  me  it  would  be 
a  liarsh  constiuction,  and  one  to  be  avoided,  if  possilde,  which  should 
postpone  for  that  period  their  right  to  receive  a  license  to  trade  with 
the  Indians.  It  can  hardly  be  the  intention  of  the  treaty  that  they 
should  lose  any  privileges  by  the  incorporation  of  their  territory  with 
the  United  States.  The  provision  should  be  deemed  an  enabling  and 
not  a  restrictive  one.  If  doubt  remains  on  this  point,  as  it  may,  it 
should,  I  think,  be  removed  by  Congress. 

K.    PKSHINE   SMITH, 

Exivnimr. 
Official  : 

R.  WILLIAMS, 

Assistant  Adjutant-  General. 


HISTORY. 


[M.] 


371 


DErARTMENT    OF    STATE, 

Washington,  January  30,  1S69. 

Sir: — I  have  the  honor  to  acknowledge  the  receipt  of  your  Icttei 
of  the  27th  instant,  enclosing  extracts  from  a  communication  from  Mr. 
M.  !■'.  Smith,  Jr.,  concerning  the  alleged  habitual  encroachment  of  the 
agents  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  upon  the  trade  and  territory  of 
.\hiska,  with  a  request  for  my  views  upon  the  subject. 

IJy  the  si.\th  article  of  our  treaty  with  Russia  of  March  30,  1867,  the 
cession  of  territory  and  dominion  therein  made  is  "  declared  to  be  free 
;uid  unincumbered  by  any  reservations,  privileges,  franchises,  grants,  or 
possessions  by  any  associated  companies,  whether  corporate  or  incorpor- 
ate, Russian  or  any  other,  or  by  any  parties  except  merely  private 
individual  proi^erty  holders. 

Article  5  of  the  treaty  between  Great  Britain  and  Russia  of  February 
j8,  1825  {3  Hertslet's  Treaties,  364),  which  was  revived  and  continuetl 
by  the  19th  article  of  the  treaty  between  the  same  powers  of  January  12, 
1859(10  Hertslet,  1063),  provides  that  "no  establishment  shall  be 
formed  by  either  of  the  two  parties  within  the  limits  assigned  by  the 
two  preceding  articles  to  the  possession  of  the  other  ;  consequently 
British  subjects  shall  not  form  any  estal)lislunent,  either  upon  the  coast 
or  upon  the  border  of  the  continent  comprised  within  the  limits  of  the 
Russian  possessions."  The  articles  referred  to  established  the  boundary 
linos  between  the  British  and  Russian  possessions  on  the  northwest 
coast  of  America,  the  same  adopted  in  our  treaty  of  cession  with  Russia. 

Tlie  provisions  above  cited  are  conclusive  against  the  right  of  the 
Hudson's  Bay  Company  to  establish  or  maintain  such  an  establishment 
as  I'ort  Yukon  is  described  to  be  in  the  communication  from  Mr.  M.  1*\ 
Smith,  Jr.  I  understand  the  decision  of  the  Supreme  Court  of  the 
United  States  in  the  case  of  Harrison  7'^-.  Cro.ss  (16  Howard,  164-202), 
to  tleclare  its  opinion  that  upon  the  addition  to  the  L'nited  States  of  new 
territory,  by  conquest  and  cession,  the  acts  regulating  foreign  conmien:i 
attach  to  and  take  eflect  within  .such  territory  ipso /(Uii)  and  without  .t^y 
I'rcsh  act  of  legislation  expressly  giving  such  extension  to  the  pre-e.vist- 
ing  laws.  I  can  see  no  reason  for  a  discrimination  in  this  res|)ect 
between  acts  regulating  foreign  commerce  ami  the  laws  regulating  in- 
tercourse with  the  Indian  tribes  ;  there  is,  indeed,  a  strong  analogy 
between  the  two  subjects.  The  Indians,  if  not  foreigners,  are  not 
citizens,  and  their  tribes  have  the  character  of  depe,-:»lent  nations  under 
the  protection  of  their  government,  as  Chief  Justice  Marshall  remarks, 
delivering  the  opinion  of  the  Supreme  Couri  in  Worcester  rvf.  The  State 


i 


'I 


M 


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Bs  ■  ,fi 


1 


9 


-6  iiii 


mm^ 


372 


HISTORY. 


of  Georgia  (6  Peters,  557),  "  The  treaties  and  laws,  of  the  United  States 
contemplate  the  Indian  territorj'  as  completely  sepi.rated  from  that  of 
the  States,  and  provide  that  all  intercourse  with  th<^m  shall  be  carried 
on  exclusively  by  the  government  of  the  Union."  The  same  clause  of 
the  Constitution  invests  Congress  with  power  "to  regulate  commerce 
with  foreign  nations,  *  *  *  *  and  with  the  Indian  tribes." 

The  act  of  June  30,  1834  (4  Stat,  729),  defines  the  Indian  country 
as,  in  part,  "  all  that  part  of  the  United  States  west  of  the  Mississippi 
and  not  within  the  States  of  Missouri  and  Louisiana,  or  the  Territory  of 
Arkansas."  This,  by  a  happy  elasticity  of  expression,  widening  as  our 
dominion  widens,  includes  the  territory  ceded  by  Russia. 

That  act  provides  that  no  person  shall  trade  with  any  of  the  Indians 
(in  the  Indian  country)  without  a  license  ;  that  any  person,  other  than 
an  Indian,  who  shall  attempt  to  reside  in  the  Indian  country  as  a  trader, 
or  to  introduce  goods,  or  to  trade  therein,  without  such  license,  shall 
forfeit  all  merchandise  offered  for  sale  to  the  Indians  or  found  in  his 
possession ;  and  shall,  moreover,  forfeit  the  sum  of  five  hundred  dollars ; 
that  no  license  to  trade  with  the  Indians  shall  be  granted  to  any  per- 
sons except  citizens  of  the  United  States  ;  that  a  foreigner  going  into 
the  Indian  country,  without  a  passport  from  tiie  War  Department,  the 
Superintendent  or  agent  of  Indian  affiiirs,  or  the  officer  commanding  the 
nearest  military  post  on  the  frontiers,  shall  be  liable  to  a  fine  of  one 
thousand  dollars  ;  finally,  that  the  Superintendent  of  Indian  affairs,  and 
Indian  agents,  and  sub-agents,  shall  have  the  authority  to  remove  from 
the  Indian  country  all  persons  found  therein  contrary  to  law,  and  the 
President  is  authorized  to  direct  the  military  force  to  be  employed  in 
such  removal. 

These  provisions  seem  to  be  all  that  can  be  necessary  to  prevent  the 
encroachments  of  the  Hudson  Bay  Company,  alleged  by  Mr.  M.  K 
Smith,  Jr. 

Of  the  practical  difiiculties  in  the  execution  of  these  provisions  yuii 
have  better  means  of  judging  than  has  this  department. 

I  have  the  honor  to  be,  sir, 

Your  obedient  servant, 

WILLIAM   H.   SEWARD. 

Hon.  John  M.  Schofield, 

Secretary  of  War,  Washington,  D.  C. 


United  States 
from  that  of 
lall  be  carried 
me  clause  of 
ite  commerce 

ndian  country 
le  Mississippi 
e  Territory  of 
iening  as  our 

)f  the  Indians 
)n,  other  than 
ry  as  a  trader, 

license,  shall 
-  found  in  his 
ndred  dollars ; 
:ed  to  any  per- 
ler  going  into 
epartment,  the 
mmanding  the 

a  fine  of  one 
an  affairs,  and 
5  remove  from 
)  law,  and  the 
;  employed  in 

to  prevent  the 
jy   xMr.  U.  1'. 


provisions  } 


SEWARD. 


;uu 


CHAPTER     III. 

Aboriginal  Inhabitants  of  Alaska. 

THE  aborigines  of  North  America  are  naturally  divided  into 
two  great  groups.  One  of  these  comprises  the  natives 
universally  known  under  the  name  of  Indians.  For  the  other 
(to  supply  a  term  long  needed  in  generalization,  to  distinguish 
thj  tribes  of  Innuit,  Aleutians,  and  Asiatic  Eskimo  from  the 
natives  comprised  under  the  first  head),  in  a  paper  read  before  the 
American  Association  for  the  Advancement  of  Science,  in  Sep- 
tember, 1869,  I  proposed  the  term  Ordrian*  in  allusion  to  their 
universal  coastwise  distribution.  The  pertinence  of  this  appella- 
tion will  be  better  appreciated  if  the  reader  will  take  the  trouble 
fo  lay  down  on  the  map  the  boundaries  of  the  territory  actually 
occupied  by  the  members  of  this  group.  He  will  see  that  it  forms  a 
belt  or  girdle  along  the  north  and  west  coasts  of  America,  ani^  the 
extreme  east  coast  of  Asia,  rarely  interrupted,  as  on  the  nort,  Acst 
shore  of  Kenai ;  sometimes  produced  inland  near  a  great  water- 
course, such  as  the  mouth  of  the  Yukon  or  Mackenzie  ;  but  no- 
where attaining  any  great  breadth,  and  everywhere  interposed  be- 
tween the  Indians,  who  occupy  the  interior,  and  the  sea. 

Our  knowledge  is  yet  insufficient,  and  the  scope  of  this  chapter 
is  too  limited,  to  admit  of  the  discussion  of  the  question  of  the 
original  identity  of  the  Indian  and  Orarian  stocks.  It  is  an  easy 
matter,  however,  to  show  the  most  salient  points  of  present  diftcr- 
encc.  Another  and  more  interesting  question,  that  of  the  origi- 
nal derivation  of  the  natives  of  America,  is  also  too  wide  for  dis- 
cussion here,  while  the  facts  on  which  to  ground  any  hypothesis 
are  very  limited  in  number. 

To   the   overshadowing   influence  of   Indo-Iuiropcan   study  in 

*  Kroin  ora,  a  coast.  I  shoukl  liave  preferred  a  term  of  native  derivation  (c.  g. 
Iminit)  iiad  there  been  any  of  sutticicnt  scope ;  failing  in  that,  a  classical  term  was 
adopted. 


\t 


lllllf     ; 


ill*, 
lift 


'Mi  ■? ' 


374 


ABORIGINAL   INHABITANTS. 


philological  science,  and  partly  to  the  Semitic  traditions  which 
have  become  so  thoroughly  ingrained  in  Christian  theology,  may 
be  principally  attributed  the  unphilosophical  manner  in  which 
many  ethnologists  have  taken  the  theory  of  the  population  of 
America  from  Asia  or  Polynesia  for  granted.  While  I  do  not 
intend  to  discuss  the  question,  or  express  a  decided  opinion  on  it, 
here,  yet  it  is  certain  that  the  most  eminent  students  of  Ameri- 
can ethnology  are  becoming  more  and  more  unwilling  to  accept 
this  theory  until  more  facts,  upon  which  to  base  it,  are  brought 
forward.  I  propose  to  attempt  to  show  that  .some  of  the  facts 
which  have  been  used  in  support  of  this  hypothesis  are  suscepti- 
ble of  quite  another  interpretation.  I  refer  to  the  existence  of 
tribes  of  Orarian  stock  on  the  coast  of  the  Chiikchee  Peninsula. 
There  are  abundant  data  on  record  in  regard  to  our  North  Ameri- 
can Indians,  which  show  how  little  physiological  characteristics 
can  be  relied  upon,  as  proofs  of  affinity  or  identity  of  origin, 
among  the  aborigines. 

The  accompanying  vocabularies  (see  Appendix  F)  will  assist 
the  student  in  determining  the  affinities  of  some  tribes  previously 
but  little  known. 

Omrian  Group.  —  This  great  stock  is  confined  to  the  northern 
and  western  shores  of  America,  the  islands  of  the  vicinity,  and 
the  adjacent  shores  of  that  part  of  Eastern  Siberia  known  as 
the  Chukchce  Peninsula.  They  may  be  divided  into  three  lesser 
groups,  of  which  the  most  important  is  that  of  the  laintii.  The 
others  are  the  Aleutian  branch,  and  that  which,  for  want  of  a 
better  name,  I  shall  designate  as  the  Tuski  branch. 

The  Inniiit.  —  These  comprice  the  Grcenlanders,  the  northern 
Eskimo  of  the  arctic  voyagers,  the  Western  I'^skimo  of  Seemann 
and  others,  the  Innuit  of  the  islands  in  the  vicinity  of  Bering  Strait, 
and  those  of  the  west  coast  of  America,  south  to  Mount  St.  Elias. 

TJie  Aleutians.  —  These  comprise  the  inhabitants  of  Aliaska,  west 
of  the  i6oth  degree  of  longitude,  and  the  Aleutian  Islands. 

The  Tuski.  —  This  branch  is  composed  of  the  Orarian  tribe  or 
tribes  which  occupy  the  coast  of  the  Chukchee  Peninsula  from  Ko- 
liuchin  Bay  on  the  north  to  Anadyr  Gulf  on  the  south.  We  do  not 
know  satisfactorily  the  name  by  which  they  call  themselves,  but 
as  Hooper  says  positively  that  they  call  themselves  Tuski,  I  have 
provisionally  adopted  his  name.     Some  fragments  of  historical 


ABORIGINAL   INHABITANTS. 


375 


records,  ana  the  traditions  of  which  I  received  some  account, 
while  pursuing  my  inquiries  among  them  in  1865  and  i866, 
tlirow  new  light  on  their  origin.  While  we  leave  untouched  the 
question  of  original  Orarian  emigration  from  Asia,  we  are  able 
to  determine  pretty  certainly  that  the  Orarians  now  on  the  Asi- 
atic coast  were  originally  from  America,  and  that  their  emigra- 
tion has  taken  place  within  three  hundred  years. 

At  Plover  Bay  I  was  informed  by  Nokiivi,  a  very  intelligent 
Tiiski,  who  spoke  English,  that  the  inhabitants  of  the  country 
were  of  two  kinds,  —  "deer  men"  (i.e.  true  Chiikchees)  and  "bow- 
head  men "  (Tuski  or  Orarians).  The  "  deer  men  "  were  the 
original  inhabitants,  and  the  "  bowhead  men,"  to  which  class  he 
belonged,  had  come,  long  ago,  from  the  islands  (the  Diomedes)  to 
the  northeast.  lie  said  that  the  reason  they  came  was  because 
there  was  war  between  them  and  the  people  who  wore  labrets. 
The  latter  proved  the  stronger,  and  the  former  were  obliged  to 
come  to  the  country  of  the  "deer  men."  *  The  latter  allowed  the 
"bowhead  men"  to  settle  on  the  barren  rocky  coast,  and  formed 
an  offensive  and  defensive  alliance  with  them  against  the  invaders 
from  the  eastward.  On  interrogating  one  of  the  "deer  men" 
who  frequently  visit  the  village,  he  confirmed  the  above,  as  iden- 
tical with  the  Chukchee  traditions.  Noticing  in  many  places  the 
remain  >  of  stone  houses,  similar  to  the  Innuit  topeks  of  Norton 
."^ouiid,  I  asked  Nokum  who  made  them.  He  replied  that  that 
was  the  kind  of  house  which  his  people  lived  in  very  long  ago, 
so  long  that  his  grandfather  only  knew  of  it  by  tradition  ;  but 
that,  wood  being"  scarce,  they  had  adopted  a  mode  of  building  their 
habitations  which  was  like  that  practised  by  the  "deer  men,"  and 
which  was  much  better  adapted  to  the  country.  So  much  for 
tradition. 

In  1648,  when  Simeon  Deshneff  sailed  through  Bering  Strait, 
he  found  natives  upon  the  Diomedes,  wearing  labrets,  who  were 
at  war  with  the  Tiiski.  This  report  was  confirmed  by  Shcstakoff 
in  1730,  and  more  fully  by  Peter  Popoff,  who  had  been  sent  to  col- 
lect tribute  from  the  Chukchees.  At  the  time  of  the  visit  of  the 
latter,  in  171 1,  the  Tiiski  were  living  in  "immovable  huts  which 

*  So  called  because  they  subsist  principally  on  the  flesh  of  their  tame  reindeer, 
ttliilc  the  Tiiski,  or  "  bowhead  men,"  gA\n  their  living  by  pursuing  the  seal,  walrus, 
and  bowhead  whale.  There  are  also  some  impoverished  tnic  Chukchees  who  have 
btiii  reduced  to  the  Ti'iski  mode  of  life  in  order  to  obtain  a  subsistence. 


1 


ill 


376 


ABORIGINAL   INHABITANTS. 


they  dig  in  the  ground."  He  also  found  among  the  Tiiski  ten 
of  the  islanders  wearing  labrets,  who  had  been  taken  prisoners 
of  war. 

Saur,  in  his  journey  from  St.  Lawrence  Bay  to  the  Kolyma 
River,  saw  Ti'iski  still  living  in  the  ancient  underground  houses, 
which  were  built  of  driftwood.  According  to  later  travellers, 
these  huts  on  the  northern  coasts  are  now  entirely  abandoned, 
and  have  formed  subjects  for  speculation  in  more  than  one  worli 
on  the  Polar  regions.  It  may  be  mentioned  in  this  connection 
that  there  is  no  doubt  that  the  Aleutians  originally  emigrated  to 
the  islands  from  the  American  continent,  driven  by  hostile  tribes. 
Their  original  name  signified  "  jfic/i  of  the  cast"  and  every  known 
fact  in  regard  to  them  adds  confirmation. 

It  has  been  frequently  remarked  that  the  Tiiski  and  Innuit 
tribes  have  a  Mongolian  cast  of  countenance.  This,  upon  an 
actual  comparison,  will  be  found  to  be  much  less  than  is  usually 
supposed.  The  real  points  of  resemblance  are  principally  in  the 
complexion,  which  is  somewhat  similar,  and  in  the  eyes.  But  the 
eyes  of  the  Innuit  are  not  oblique,  as  in  the  Chinese.  They  have 
an  apparent  obliquity,  which  is  due  to  the  peculiar  form  of  the 
zygomatic  arch,  but  the  eyes  themselves  are  perfectly  horizontal. 
The  prominent  characteristics  of  the  Orarian  skull  are  the  strong- 
ly developed  coronary  ridge,  the  obliquity  of  the  zygoma,  and  its 
greater  capacity  compared  with  the  Indian  cranium.  The  former 
is  essentially  pyramidal,  while  the  latter  more  nearly  approaches 
a  cubic  shape. 

The  mean  capacity  (in  cubic  centimetres)  of  three  Tiiski  skulls 
from  Plover  Bay,  according  to  Dr.  Wyman,  was  1,505  ;  that  of 
twenty  crania  of  northern  Eskimo,  according  to  Dr.  Davis,  was 
1,475,  ^"^l  '^'"'^'^  of  fo'-"'  Inii"it  crania  of  Norton  Sound  was  1,320; 
thus  showing  a  wide  variation.  The  mean  capacity  of  twenty 
West-American  Indian  crania  was  only  1,284.06.  The  mean 
height  of  all  the  Orarian  skulls  above  referred  to  was  13C.55 
mill.,  against  a  breadth  of  134.47  mill.,  while  the  height  of  the 
Indian  skulls  was  120.14  mill.,  against  .'v  breadth  of  100.025  mill. 
The  zygomatic  diameter  of  the  Orarian  crania  was  134.92  mill., 
while  that  of  twelve  Indian  skulls  was  134.C5  mill.  The  Orarian 
skulls  were  most  dolichocephalic,  :tnd  the  indian  most  brachy- 
cophalic.      The  latter  averaged  378.71  cubic  cent.  less  capacity 


ABORIGINAL   INHABITANTS. 


Zll 


le  Tuski  ten 
en  prisoners 

the  Kolyma 
ound  houses, 
:r  travellers, 
r  abandoned, 
lan  one  work 
is  connection 
emigrated  to 
lostile  tribes, 
every  known 

and  Inniiit 
liis,  upon  an 
an  is  usually 
;ipally  in  the 
es.     But  the 

They  have 
form  of  the 
y  horizontal. 
2  the  strong- 
oma,  and  its 

The  former 

approaches 

Tuski  skulls 
05  ;  that  of 
Davis,  was 
was  1,320; 
J  of  twenty 
The  mean 
was  136.55 
ight  of  the 
00.025  mill. 
34.92  mill, 
"he  Orarian 
ost  brachy- 
2SS  capacity 


than  the  former.  The  average  height  of  the  Orarians,  except 
among  the  stunted  tribes  of  the  extreme  north,  will  average 
as  great  as  that  of  their  Indian  neighbors.  The  strength  and 
activity  of  the  former  far  exceed  that  of  any  northern  Indians 
with  wl  jm  I  am  acquainted.  They  are  much  more  intelligent, 
and  superior  in  every  essential  respect  to  the  Indians.  The  lan- 
guage of  the  western  Innuit  differs  totally  in  the  vocabulary  from 
that  of  any  Indian  tribes,  while  there  are  many  word'^  common  to 
the  Greenlanders  and  the  Bering  Strait  Eskimo.  On  the  other 
hand,  the  words  of  the  language  of  the  Aleutians  are  in  very  large 
part  quite  dissimilar  to  those  of  the  most  adjacent  Innuit.  There 
is  more  difference  in  this  respect  between  them  and  the  Innuit  of 
Kadiak  than  exists  between  the  Grcenlandic  and  Bering  Strait 
dialect.  Nevertheless,  the  Aleutian  language  is  clearly  of  the  In- 
nuit type,  and  is  only  entitled  to  rank  as  a  branch  of  the  Orarian 
stock. 

The  Orarian  dialects  differ  from  the  Indian  languages  of 
Alaska  v.\  the  following  particulars,  according  to  Veniami'noff :  — 

The  Orarians  have  three  kinds  of  numbers :  nouns  or  abstract 
numbers,  adjective  or  qualifying  numbers,  and  a  plural  form  of 
each  number.  In  some  dialects,  as  in  the  Aleutian,  there  is  a  dual 
number.  These  dialects  hav'e  indefinite  and  possessive  ca.ses,  all 
form.cd  by  changes  in  the  termination  of  the  words,  so  that  there 
are  some  fifty  cases  for  the  same  word  ;  the  conjugation  of  .  ibs 
in  number  and  person  is  effected  in  the  same  way  ;  the  adverbs 
have  numbers,  and  the  idea  of  negation  is  expressed  by  a  change 
in  the  termination  of  the  noun,  and  not  by  the  use  of  the  word 
"no,"  except  when  the  latter  is  used  in  answer  to  a  question 
without  other  words.  The  Orarian  dialects  are  deficient  in  some 
sounds  which  are  common  in  the  Indian  languages,  and  the 
former,  as  a  rule,  are  much  more  harmonious  and  less  guttural 
than  the  latter.  Phrases  are  exprr-,scd  by  a  grammatical  ar- 
rangement of  words,  while  generally  the  Indians  use  a  single 
word  to  express  the  same  ideas. 

The  Intlian  languages  of  Alaska  have  only  two  kinds  of  num- 
hcrs,  singular  and  plural.  There  are  only  three  cases  tc  the 
nouns;  the  conjugation  of  verbs  is  expressed  by  changes  in  the 
beginning  or  middle  of  the  ^"ord,  and  not  in  the  termination  ;  the 
adverbs  are  invariable  ;  the  words  are,  as  a  rule,  harsh  and  gut- 


378 


ABORIGINAL   INHABITANTS. 


"} 


t 


tural ;  the  number  of  words  is  less  than  in  the  Orarian  dialects, 
and  their  general  structure  is  more  arbitrary  and  less  gram- 
matical. Both  stocks  have  only  one  gender,  or  rather  no  change 
to  express  gender  in  the  words.  The  Indians  can  rarely  count 
more  than  two  hundred,  while  some  Orarian  dialects  have  a 
regular  succession  of  numbers  up  to  ten  thousand.* 

T/w  Tuski  Tdt£S^ — These  tribes  are  estimated  by  different 
authors  at  from  one  to  five  thousand  souls.  Their  origin  has 
been  described.  They  have  occupied  the  coast  from  Koliiichin 
Bay  in  the  north  to  the  Gulf  of  Anadyr  on  the  south,  but  during 
the  winter,  at  least,  are  at  present  confined  to  a  narrower  extent 
of  country.  Like  all  Orarians,  they  do  not  penetrate  the  interior 
to  any  great  distance.  They  are  on  good  terms  with  the  Chuk- 
chees,  and  there  are  several  villages  of  the  latter  composed  of 
individuals  who  have  lost  their  deer,  become  impoverished,  or 
from  some  other  reason  have  adopted  a  sedentary  life.  There  is 
reason  to  believe  that  there  was  originally  a  jargon,  containing 
words  of  both  languages,  in  use  in  communication  between  tlic 
men  of  the  two  races,  as  is  at  present  the  case  near  Norton  Sound, 
between  the  Innuit  and  Indians.  Communication  is  constantly 
kept  up  between  the  Chukchees  and  Tiiski,  and  our  knowledge 
of  the  language  of  the  latter  is  still  too  meagre  to  enable  us  to 
say  whether  among  themselves  they  yet  speak  a  pure  Orarian 
dialect,  but  it  is  probable  that  i  is  become,  from  constant  inter- 
course, permanently  mixed  with  Chiikchee  words. 

Coming,  from  a  country  where  driftwood  was  abundant,  to  a 
district  where  it  is  very  scarce,  modifications  have  been  necessary 
in  the  mode  of  life  of  the  Tiiski,  of  which  we  have,  as  already 
shown,  some  historical  record.  At  present  the  method  of  con- 
structing their  houses,  sledges,  and  many  other  articles,  is  very 
similar  to,  though  not  quite  identical  with,  the  mode  of  the  Chuk- 
chees. They  have  no  reindeer,  however,  and  use  dogs  to  draw 
their  sledges.  The  summer  houses  of  the  Tiiski  are  made  of  wal- 
rus-skins, spread  over  a  light  frame.  These  are  divided  by  hang- 
ing hides  into  various  compartments  where  the  inmates  sleep  and 
work  during  the  day.     They  fill  sealskin  bags  with  moss  and  lay 

*  This  subject  will  be  i  lore  fully  trcr-lcd  in  a  work  in  preparation  for  the  Smith- 
sonian Institution  by  Dr.  George  Clibbs  and  the  writer.  This  work  will  also  contain 
a  large  number  of  hitherto  unpublished  vocabularies. 


in  dialects, 
less  gram- 
no  change 
arcly  count 
:ts  have  a 

ly  different 
origin  has 
Koliiichin 
but  during 
ivver  extent 
he  interior 
the  Chuk- 
mposed  of 
erished,  or 
There  is 
containing 
^tvveen  tlic 
ton  Sound, 
constantly 
knowledge- 
able us  to 
■e   Orarian 
itant  inter- 

idant,  to  a 
I  necessary 
as  already 
od  of  con- 
es, is  very 
the  Chuk- 
js  to  draw 
ide  of  wal- 
1  by  hang- 
1  sleep  and 
)ss  and  lay 

ar  the  Sniitli- 
1  also  contain 


I  >;- 


if!'' 


li. 


ADOKI'-.INAI.    INHABITANTS. 


J7^> 


vjvcr  thi-rn  lor  hcls.     Tlicii  t^iUs  at  Plover  Pay  wen 

he  pebbles  near  ll.o  beach.     They  bum  ino^s  souk.  < I 

1  IS  placed  in  an  earlliea  fit.'^h  wiih  u  'tcl^c  on  cn'.h 

a  rull  jf  niu.-.s  seives  l<.r  a  wie'-:      Thi^  with  .  larger 

'Uv^  over,  is  uiie<i   lo  ligiit   and  warm   the  t^  iitM  in 

vairn  themselves  ihey  sciuat  dirccllv  ovtr  i:u    Iani| , 

t',..tM:.<'lveb  :iiid  it  witli  a  mantle  of  skin      Tlicir  ibod  is 

he  llesh  and  blubber  ol'  the  walrus,  seal,  and  wi\al'-. 

, -t  h   uf   i!    ra-.v,    but  iHiidly    -iteu-   lh<    ]e.uicr    parts. 

.  I'v.   round-lealfd  aorrel  aU''.  semvy  grass  or  watcr- 

•,,,ake  a  kind  of  .salad,  vvhieh  i.-^  al'.nwcd  to  t'-iine  it 

•leii.     '['hey  also  eat  the  b-'vies  oi-M  c-  heit^  {/iw 

•v/w;. -and  obtain  salmon   trout  !  ^u:    i   i..Ue    e^ 


"  latter,  as  well  as  the  leop -.' .1 
Thov   ii.He   slit^.g:    with  {.,'c:it. 
I'-Kiws  ;>nd    d.ut'j  ot    waliu;i    n 
'",    i"oiv   halt  is    as 'd'  in    llie 
■  .-  bill  very  dimir.iitive  {]o.\^,  vv!.' 


'    e^  . ;■    liikJ 

»a .,!,'-  !t(  a 

•.iti  '    •»•  /J 

-  •  .  .,     i 

1    l-:>k:iiu>,   but    diiVer    from    tli..^    Kanu^hidal'    lU-^.i. 

.    .;h   an-   ficiiv  eiteii,  as   I   saw   mystlC  on  s'-vra!  iK- 

1    \.  -   and  bears  ire  rarely  ((btcuned  aid  u.,ed  .is  luoii. 

b     .:  i.-.  comprised  of  .'ioal  and  deci   >kins,  the  laller  nb- 

i.  :  '-r  troll,  ii\L  Clu'ikVhces.    .They  wv:av  nn  i  t  "T  shiit  ot 

km.  .\  "'h  bieecbes  and  .socks  of  the  same  ;  "ut  idv.-  la'tiu'st,-. 

erv  loo.se,  W'ith  wide  slt;<'Nt:s.  u  tlaj'  uii-i'T  the  chin 

><-d,  wiihoul  l.li!^^,!ni';.,^  hul  cap:  i;.I>.'  (jf  V,ein;4  thMwa 

.Is.  .-nuuth  of  a  bag,  aroun.i   ih  :  faci:  \)\  a  sti-in;;  m.serted 

>:  t  .  ,         rh'Mc  T,  no  uv;;f-k!n   Iri'nm'.ai;,  .is  iii  tiie  pArk^.s 

!'.       .  <A  \  M'.un  Si'.Mul      Tile  .Kit  i,  ■•<  inctimrs  trimmed 

!-.'■..  Thesi'  p^ikies,  bc.n.c  m.  )'■  <:'  the    t-r.ne  reindeer 

II''     i    a  moiiicd  with  whit."  ^^   H  \:uio  is  deii  "aie  shad'  s  o 

J   •    !■  '..ater  bi'i;ch'>s  are  mhu'-  of  5;':ai.-ki'-  wiih  the  l.air 

■I  out       1  hi.ir  booi-   if  lonr   ai'    <-'f.id.:  of  'he  .same  material 

■  d  at  ;'u:  knee,  *  r,  if  ;d)oi  1     ;'   i'.'    ndsle,     Th.  y  are  o'nU' 

p'O'Jt.        rh<-   si'.ort    ones    au'    -.':■. ■jimus  .-a'ep,,      liiniuii  • 

. :    u-  d-.-ri-,kin.  oi;  embroi.K'ieu  wan  sniew  euluf-d    r<  d  \>    • 

bp-l:.     'IT..-,  parka,  or  outer  e.ic:    in*  ludinp;  thi    how; 
M?r;ef>   is  made  in   ,)\^c  piee--.     Ti..  \'  s^^et  n,to  u  at  th' 
.nlr.-,  whie.il  is  l.iced  or  !i<'l   up  idt-a-vartls.      1  h-:  v,-  v  ,  •    e, 


C    IV- 


<a^f^'*-'<r 


U'l 


m 


-^Tf 


•'WW'M"^ 


C"  .  -       -3: 


t.f*., 


.■.■:• 


■'t 


t,-^ 

'.,                         j:. 

^; 

1., 

R: 

1 

1 

■''1   , 

( 

I 

;■ 

Autv.       . 

':& 

JjMMni  ' 

1 

■    ' 

>' 

1 
i 

1 
i 

";n       , 

''■C  .^''' 

■■f?;i 

!-# 

■■,^!«^.. 

1 

1 

i 
j 

i 
1 

• 

AllORIGINAL   INHAIHTANTS. 


379 


soft  skins  over  thcni  for  bids.  Their  tt-nts  at  Plover  Ray  were 
plnctHl  on  tlu-  pebbles  near  the  beach.  They  burn  moss  st)ake(l 
in  uil,  which  is  placed  in  an  earthen  dish  with  a  ledj^e  on  lach 
side,  where  a  roll  of  moss  serves  for  a  wick.  This,  with  a  larj;er 
one  for  cookinj;  over,  is  used  to  lij^ht  and  warm  thv,  tents  in 
winter.  To  warm  themselves  they  squat  directly  over  the  lamp, 
ami  cover  themselves  and  it  with  a  mantle  of  skin.  Their  fooil  is 
principally  the  llesh  and  blubber  of  tlic  walrus,  seal,  ;.!id  whale. 
Tlicv  eat  much  of  ii  raw,  but  usually  stew  the  leaner  parts. 
They  chop  up  the  round-leafed  sorrel  and  scurvy  grass  or  water- 
cresses,  and  make  a  kind  of  salad,  which  is  allowed  to  ferment 
before  it  is  eaten.  They  also  eat  the  berries  of  the  heath  (/:'w- 
pciniiii  nioriiiii),  and  obtain  salmon  trout  from  a  lake  near  the 
villa-c.  Th  latter,  as  well  as  the  leopard  seal,  is  caught  in  a 
rawhide  net.  They  use  slings  with  great  dexterity,  and  also 
thrce-siilcd  arrows  and  darts  of  walrus  ivory.  A  harpoon  of 
slate  with  an  ivory  haft  is  used  in  the  whale  fisliery.  They 
have  numerous  but  very  diminutive  dogs,  which  resemble  those  of 
the  American  T-lskimo,  but  differ  from  the  Kamshadale  dogs. 
These  animals  are  freely  eaten,  as  I  saw  myself,  on  several  oc- 
casions. Foxes  and  bears  are  rarely  obtained  and  used  as  food. 
Their  drss  is  composed  of  seal  and  deer  skins,  the  latter  ob- 
tained in  trade  from  the  Chukchces.  They  wear  an  inner  shirt  of 
reindeer  skin,  with  breeches  and  socks  of  the  same  ;  outside  of  these, 
a  pcirka,  made  very  loose,  with  wide  sleeves,  a  flap  under  the  chin 
ami  a  square  hood,  without  trimming,  but  capable  of  being  drawn 
up,  like  the  mouth  of  a  bag,  around  ih^;  firee  by  a  string  inserted 
in  the  edge.  There  is  no  wolf-skhi  trimming,  as  in  the  pArkies 
of  the  Innuit  of  Norton  Sound.  The  skirt  is  sometimes  trimmed 
with  beaver.  These  pdrkies,  being  made  of  the  tame  reindeer 
skins,  are  often  mottled  with  white  and  various  delicate  shades  of 
brown.  Their  outer  breeches  are  made  of  sealskin  with  the  hair 
turned  out.  Their  boots,  if  long,  are  made  of  the  same  material 
and  tied  at  the  knee,  or,  if  short,  at  the  ankle.  They  are  quite 
water-proof.  The  short  ones  are  sometimes  prettily  trimmed 
with  white  deerskin,  or  embroidered  with  sinew  colored  red  with 
willow  bark.  The  ])arka,  or  outer  dress,  including  the  boots,  of 
the  women  is  made  in  one  piece.  They  get  into  it  at  the  back 
by  a  hole,  which  is  laced  or  tied  up  afterwards.     The  very  loose, 


■-     il 

i  ■■  ■? 


38o 


ABORIGINAL   INHABITANTS. 


^\ 


baggy  manner  in  whicli  these  pdrkies  are  made  gives  them  a 
very  hidicrous  appearance,  especially  when  made  with  the  hair 
turned  in.  They  also  make  fine  strong  kamlaykas  of  walrus 
guts.     These  are  worn  in  their  kyaks  or  during  bad  weather. 

The  deerskii.s  are  obtained  by  barter  from  the  Chukchees, 
They  are  paid  for  with  oil,  walrus-skins,  ivory,  whalebone,  and 
ready-made  boats.  They  are  tanned  with  the  inner  bark  of  the 
willow  and  alder,  are  as  soft  as  a  glove,  and  of  a  beautiful  red- 
brown.  They  bear  wetting  much  better  than  the  skins  which  are 
prepared  by  the  Innuit  to  the  eastv.'ard. 

Their  winter  houses  are  built  on  the  most  exposed  spots,  so  that 
the  wind  may  drive  away  the  snow. 

Whale  ribs  are  erected  in  a  circle,  while  turf  is  piled  up  around 
them  for  two  or  three  feet,  and  the  whole  is  covered  with  walrus- 
hide.  The  latter  is  oiled  until  translucent,  and  no  windows  arc 
required.  These  huts  are  divided  by  hanging  skins,  as  before 
described.  Their  kyaks  are  very  small  and  light,  and  quite  de- 
void of  ornament.  Their  oomiaks  are  of  the  ordinary  descriiv 
tion,  but  are  provided  with  flaps,  which  are  usually  rolled  up  out- 
side of  the  gunwale.  In  stormy  weather  these  are  crossed  over 
the  boat  and  strongly  laced,  so  that  the  cargo  is  kept  dry.  Two 
or  three  sealskins  are  inflated,  and  attached  to  the  gunwale  as 
floats,  so  that  it  is  almost  impossible  for  the  boat  to  be  swamped. 
With  these  boats  they  make  long  voyages,  frequently  visiting  St, 
Lawrence  Island.  Here  the  frames  of  the  boats  are  made  from 
wood  which  grows  much  larger  on  the  island  than  any  on  the 
Tuski  coast.  They  told  me  that  the  frames  were  made  according 
to  an  invariable  rule,  and  that  the  price  of  a  frame  was  seven 
deerskins.  They  are  tied  up  with  whalebone,  are  sometimes  cov- 
ered v»ith  skin  at  the  island  and  sometimes  at  Plover  Bay.  Tliey 
arc  very  well  proportioned,  strong,  and  light.  Their  sewing  is 
done  with  whale  and  walrus  sinew.  Their  whale  line  is  made  of 
double-twisted  walrus-hide.  There  does  not  appear  to  be  any 
notion  that  the  oomiak  is  a  "  woman's  boat'  any  more  than  a 
man's  boat,  ac  ])oth  se.xes  use  oomiaks  and  kyaks  without  distinc- 
iioPi.  Their  paddles  are  roughly  made,  and  often  very  poor,  as 
wood  is  so  scarce. 

The  Tiiski  do  not  wear  labrets.  This  distinguishing  character- 
istic was  noticed  by  Deshneff  and  all  subsequent  voyagers.     Both 


m 


ABORIGINAL   INHABITANTS. 


381 


^ives  them  a 
with  the  hair 
cas  of  walrus 
weather. 
e  Chiikchees. 
lalebone,  and 
r  bark  of  the 
beautiful  red- 
ins  which  arc 

spots,  so  that 

led  up  around 
I  with  walrus- 
)  windows  are 
ins,  as  before 
and  quite  de- 
inary  descri[> 
rolled  up  out- 
;  crossed  over 
;pt  dry.  Two 
le  gunwale  as 
)  be  swamped, 
tly  visiting  St 
re  made  from 
,n  any  on  the 
ade  according 
nie  was  seven 
Dmetimes  cov- 
r  Bay.  They 
leir  sewing  is 
me  is  made  of 
;ar  to  be  any 
•  more  than  a 
ithout  distinc- 
i  very  poor,  as 

line:  character- 


yagers. 


Both 


sexes  tattoo  very  extensively,  not  only  on  the  face,  but  all  over 
the  body.  The  blue  color  is  derived  from  berries.  The  women 
always  have  perpendicular  lines  on  the  chin,  but  this  is  omitted 
by  the  men.  The  former  braid  their  hair  on  each  side,  while  the 
men  practise  the  tonsure,  though  not  universally. 

They  are  hospitable,  good-humored,  but  not  always  trustworthy. 
They  will  steal,  and  have  sometimes  attacked  small  vessels  in  the 
Strait.  On  one  occasion  they  attempted  to  take  a  small  schooner, 
commanded  by  a  captain  of  my  acquaintance.  A  bloody  fight 
ensued,  in  which  the  sailors  were  finally  successful.  An  extreme 
degree  of  endurance,  ferocity,  and  contempt  of  pain  was  shown 
by  the  Tuski,  One  of  them  was  pinned  to  the  mast  with  a  har- 
poon during  the  fight,  but  uttered  no  cry,  and  employed  his  last 
breath  in  spitting  in  the  face  of  his  assailant.  After  this  conflict 
the  Tuski  came  to  the  conclusion  that  the  whites  were  hard  to 
kill,  and  no  further  attempts  of  the  kind  have  been  made  of  late 
years. 

Their  complexion  is  light,  like  that  of  all  Orarians.  The 
Chiikchee  are  rather  darker.  They  are  of  moderate  height,  but 
look  short,  from  their  baggy  parkies.  They  have  no  chiefs,  but 
their  most  wealthy  men  have  the  greatest  influence.  They  some- 
times have  as  many  as  five  wives,  but  one  or  two  is  the  usual 
number.  They  are  not  prolific.  If  a  man's  wife  bears  only 
i;irls,  he  takes  another  until  he  obtains  a  boy,  but  no  more. 
Hoys  stay  at  home  and  work,  while  the  girls  are  married  very 
early  and  go  away.  There  is  no  marriage  ceremony,  but  the 
parents  exchange  presents,  and  a  feast  is  usually  given  by  the 
bride's  father.  During  childbirth,  delivery  is  expedited  by  press- 
ure on  the  fundus.  The  woman  is  delivered  on  her  hands  and 
knees.  The  custom  of  assisting  in  the  delivery  may  be  the  cause 
of  the  curiously  misshapen  heads  which  are  common  among 
them.  They  are  almost  universally  diseased  from  constant  inter- 
course with  the  whalers.  I  noticed  several  Kanaka  words  which 
they  u.sed  while  talking  wih  the  whites,  which  were  probably 
from  the  same  source. 

They  have  no  laws,  but  the  .sentiment  of  the  community  is 
opposed  to  serious  crimes.  Nokum,  from  whom  I  derived  most 
of  my  inform:,tion  in  regard  to  their  customs,  told  me  that  a  man, 
who  committed  murder  while  drunk,  was  hunted  by  the  whole 


:   i 


t\^\ 


382 


ABORIGINAL   INHABITANTS. 


tribe ;  when  found,  he  was  taken  to  the  house  of  the  murdered 
man,  and  the  flesh  was  cut  off  from  his  cheeks,  breast,  arms,  and 
thighs,  and  he  was  left  to  die  in  misery.  No  murder  had  since 
occurred.  Drunkards  have  been  taken  in  canoes,  while  drunk, 
and  set  ashore  a  long  way  from  home,  to  find  their  way  back  as 
best  they  might.  Incorrigible  thieves  were  sometimes  banished 
from  the  village. 

Drunkenness  is  a  common  vice  among  them.  They  have  an 
uncontrollable  passion  for  alcohol,  which  is  plentifully  supplied 
lO  them  by  whalers  and  traders,  in  exchange  for  oil,  bone,  ivory, 
and  suph  furs  as  they  may  have  obtained.  There  is  also  a  large 
trade  in  guns,  ammunition,  hardware,  &c.  They  hate  the  Rus- 
sians, and  will  not  trade  with  them. 

Their  customs  in  regard  to  the  treatment  of  the  old  and  infirm 
are,  from  a  civilized  point  of  view,  exceedingly  cruel  and  inhuman. 
I  should  not  venture  to  record  the  facts,  had  I  not  obtained 
them  directly  from  the  natives,  with  partial  confirmation  from 
my  own  observations  and  those  of  the  traders. 

Those  who  die  a  natural  death  are  carried  out  through  a  hole 
cut  in  the  back  of  the  hut  ox  yardiig.  This  is  immediately  closed 
up,  that  the  spirit  of  the  dead  man  may  not  find  his  way  back. 
1  he  bodies  of  good  men  are  burned,  or  rather  broiled,  with  oil, 
moss,  and  driftwood.  Women  are  not  usually  burned,  on  account 
of  the  scarcity  of  wood.  Bad  men  are  simply  exposed  to  rot. 
An  oval,  about  four  feet  long  and  two  in  diameter,  is  made  of 
large  stones.  The  interior  is  filled  with  moss.  Here  the  body  is 
laid  and  tied  to  poles  which  are  passed  under  the  stones.  The 
innumerable  dogs  of  the  village  often  consume  the  greater  part  of 
the  remains.  They  are  aided  by  the  crows,  foxes,  and  bears. 
The  place  where  the  bodies  were  exposed  at  the  Plover  liay 
village  was  a  level  spot  on  the  side  of  the  rocky  hill,  above  the 
sandspit.  This  was  abundantly  strewn  with  bones.  I  counted 
several  dozen  of  the  stone  ovals  referred  to.  On  the  top  of  the 
hill,  large  fragments  of  rock  were  erected  on  end  in  circles.  I 
asked  Nokum  about  them,  and  he  said  each  stone  represented  a 
dead  man.  lie  said  they  did  not  bury  the  dead,  because  the 
bears  would  certainly  dig  them  up  again. 

When  troubled  with  rheumatism,  they  sacrifice  a  dog  to  ap- 
pease  the  evil  spirits.     Their  religion,  if  it  can  be  so  called,  re- 


ABORIGINAL   INHABITANTS. 


383 


:  murdered 
,  arms,  and 
■  had  since 
hile  drunk, 
•ay  back  as 
;s  banished 

sy  have  an 
ly  suppHed 
jone,  ivory, 
ilso  a  large 
e  the  Rus- 

and  infirm 
;]  inhuman. 
)t  obtained 
ation  from 

)ugh  a  hole 

itely  closed 

;  way  back. 

d,  with  oil, 

on  account 

sed  to  rot. 

s  made  of 

the  body  is 

3nes.     The 

Iter  part  of 

and  bears. 

^lover  Bay 

above   the 

I  counted 

top  of  the 

circles.     I 

resented  a 

jcause  the 

;log  to  ap- 
called,  re- 


sembles that  of  the  other  Orarian  tribes  elsewhere  referred  to. 
They  believe  in  a  future  state,  but  not  in  a  system  of  reward  and 
punishment.  They  also  believe  in  many  evil  and  some  good  but 
feeble  spirits.  Good  men  are  supposed  to  go  up  into  the  air, 
and  bad  ones  down  into  the  earth.  The  custom  of  exposing  the 
dead  is  common  to  many  Orarian  tribes. 

They  have  shamans  who  celebrate  rites  in  honor  of  the  dead. 
One  of  these  was  there  during  our  visit.  The  natives  took  a  deer 
and  went  up  to  the  place  of  the  dead.  The  shaman  had  longhair, 
but  dressed  like  U  3  other  natives.  He  kindled  a  fire,  and  took  the 
fat  from  near  the  deer's  heart,  and  put  a  small  piece  on  each  of 
the  upright  stones  before  referred  to.  This  ceremony  was  accom- 
panied by  a  great  deal  of  gesticulation,  flourishing  of  knives, 
oroaning,  and  mumbling  by  the  shaman.  He  danced  until  he  fell 
from  exhaustion,  and  then  remained  perfectly  quiet  for  some  time. 
Meanwhile  the  others  scorched  the  flesh  of  the  deer  and  ate  it. 
He  then  rose  and  made  a  harangue  to  the  spectators,  and  the 
ceremony  was  over.  According  to  Nokum's  account,  old,  sick,  and 
useless  persons  are  put  to  death.  He  said  that  vvhen  an  old  per- 
son was  sick  for  more  than  seven  days,  the  others  nut  a  rope 
around  his  neck,  and  dragged  him  by  it,  around  the  house  over, 
the  stones,  for  half  an  hour  or  so.  If  this  did  not  kill  or  cure,  the 
sick  person  was  taken  io  the  place  of  the  dead  before  described. 
Here  the  individual  was  stored  or  speared,  and  the  body  left  for 
the  dogs  to  devour,  the  latter  being  themselves  eaten  by  the  natives. 

.Sometimes  a  sledge,  household  utensil,  or  weapon  is  broken  and 
left  by  the  side  of  the  body.  Occasionally  a  more  decorous 
method  is  adopted.  Old  and  useless  people  frequently  ask  to  be 
put  to  death,  and  the  ceremony  is  as  follows. 

The  victim  is  taken  to  the  place  of  the  dead,  and  the  oval  of 
stones  is  built  as  described.  The  cavity,  which  is  only  a  few 
inches  deep,  is  filled  with  moss.  A  large  headstone  is  placed  at 
one  end,  and  another  large  stone  at  the  foot ;  under  these  two 
poles  are  laid,  with  thongs  attached.  A  deer  is  killed,  and  the 
hlood  allowed  to  flow  on  the  headstone.  The  victim  is  then 
placed  on  his  back.  The  legs  and  arms,  of  course,  extend  over 
the  stone  oval  and  are  tied  to  the  poles,  so  that  motion  is  impos- 
sible. He  is  then  asked  if  he  is  ready  for  death.  If  the  answer 
is  affirmative,  his  nostrils  are  stopped  up  with  u  substance  (of 


)*l 


11,   -1 


I- 


Bf  ' 


ill 


i 


.11        • 


384 


ABORIGINAL  INHABITANTS. 


which  more  hereafter)  which  stupefies  him.  The  carotid  is  then 
cut,  the  heart  is  pierced,  or  the  large  vein  of  the  arm  is  opened, 
and  the  victim  allowed  to  bleed  to  death.  Good  men  are  killed 
by  their  friends,  and  bad  ones  by  women.  If  a  good  man,  .small 
sticks,  moss,  and  grease  are  placed  over,  around,  and  under  him, 
and  the  body  is  thus  burned,  but  is  very  rarely  consumed.  It  is 
to  be  feared  that  a  negative  answer  to  the  question  is  not  always 
heeded,  but  if  it  shou'd  be,  the  deer  meat,  which  is  otherwise 
eaten,  is  burned  as  a  kind  of  atoning  sacrifice.  All  the  bones  of 
the  deer  are  carefully  crushed. 

On  the  3d  of  September,  1866,  we  were  informed  by  Nokum 
that  a  ceremony  of  this  kind  was  in  progress,  and  we  made  all 
possible  speed  to  the  spot  to  witness  it,  as  j^reviously  we  had 
hardly  believed  in  the  truth  of  the  story.  When  we  arrived 
everything  was  ready.  The  women  and  children  were  cutting  up 
the  deer  meat,  and  the  blood  was  on  the  headstone.  The  victim, 
a  blind  but  not  decrepit  old  man,  was  sitting  in  apparent  uncon- 
cern by  the  headstone,  and  the  others  were  squatting  in  a  circle 
around  him.  He  was  the  father  of  a  wealthy  native,  but  had  been 
blind  for  five  years.  Th;..,  with  the  death  of  his  wife  and  younger 
son,  had  made  him  rather  childish.  Nokum  said  that  he  was  con- 
stantly weeping  for  his  child,  and  finally  requested  to  be  killed. 
The  natives  were  much  disturbed  at  our  approach,  and,  fearing 
interference,  refused  to  go  on  until  our  vessels  had  left.  So  we 
were  not  able  to  witness  the  ceremony,  which,  indeed,  we  did  not 
regret.  The  truth  of  the  statements  made  by  Nokum  hardly 
need  further  confirmation.  I  saw  on  the  hill  the  festering  re- 
mains of  a  lame  native,  for  whom  our  carpenter  had  made  a  crutch 
on  our  visit  in  1865.  It  was  said  that  he  had  been  disposed  of  in 
the  same  way.  I  saw  the  fragment  of  a  lance  still  remaining  in 
the  thorax.  Vet  some  of  the  natives,  who  might  have  been  afraid 
of  retribution  from  us,  declared  that  he  had  been  frozen  to  death 
during  the  winter.     The  lance-head  told  another  story. 

The  stupefying  agent  may  perhaps  be  prepared  from  the  wild 
fiftx  vo7iiica  which  grows  to  the  westward.  Nokum  said  that  it 
was  obtained  from  the  "deer  men";  that  it  was  soft  and  black. 
If  applied  to  a  weak  man's  nostrils  it  would  throw  him  into  a 
swoon  instantly.  Strong  men  were  obliged  to  swallow  a  little, 
which  was  followed  by  the  same  effects.     A  small  portion  was 


rotid  is  then 
m  is  opened, 
en  arc  killed 
d  man,  small 
:i  under  him, 
umcd.  It  is 
is  not  always 
is  otherwise 
the  bones  of 

d  by  Nokum 
we  made  all 
ously  we  had 
1   we   arrived 
:re  cutting  up 
The  victim, 
)arcnt  uncoil- 
ing in  a  circle 
but  had  been 
;  and  younger 
it  he  was  con- 
to  be  killed. 
\,  and,  fearing 
left.     So  we 
,  we  did  not 
okum  hardly 
estering  re- 
adc  a  crutch 
isposed  of  in 
■emaining  in 
e  been  afraid 
ozen  to  death 
ry. 

from  the  wild 
said  that  it 
ft  and  black. 
V  him  into  a 
How  a  little, 
portion  was 


ABORIGINAL   INHABITANTS. 


385 


often  placed  in  a  fresh  deer  liver,  which  was  then  left  exposed  to 
the  air  for  two  months.  It  then  became  a  very  strong  poison  to 
any  animal  or  man  when  eaten.  Bears  were  sometimes  killed 
with  it,  but  their  flesh   was  uneatable. 

The  Tiiski  look  upon  this  custom  of  killing  infirm  people, 
rather  as  a  species  of  philanthropy.  "  It  saves  them  from  pain 
and  us  from  the  trouble  of  taking  care  of  them,"  was  the  reason 
assigned  by  Nokum,  in  rather  more  broken  English. 

These  natives  have  also  been  called  Sedaitary  Clinkclurs,  Na- 
viollos,  &c.  Their  tribal  names  are  unknown,  but  a  body  of  them 
living  on  Chukluk  Island,  Seniavine  Strait,  called  themselves 
Chuklukmnt,  according  to  one  of  the  traders. 

Tlic  Aleutian  Tribes.  —  The  etymology  of  the  word  Aleut  will  be 
found  in  the  Glossary.  The  original  name  of  these  people,  ac- 
cording to  Humboldt,  was  Kagatdya  Kouiigiis  or  "  People  of  the 
East."  They  are  evidently  of  American  continental  origin,  and 
at  the  time  of  their  earliest  discovery  were  engaged  in  active 
hostilities  with  the  Kaniagmuts  of  the  continent. 

Since  the  time  of  their  f  it  intercourse  with  the  Russians, 
their  character,  habits,  mode  of  life,  and  even  their  very  name, 
has  been  totally  changed.  Originally  they  were  active,  sprightly, 
and  fond  of  dances  and  festivals.  They  were  of  a  less  determined 
character  than  their  neighbors,  the  Kaniagmuts,  but  were  by  no 
means  devoid  of  courage.  Their  mode  of  worship  partook  more 
of  the  character  of  a  religion  than  that  of  any  of  the  tribes 
which  have  still  remained  unchanged.  Ground  into  the  very 
dust  by  the  oppression  of  ruthless  invaders,  their  religious  rites, 
gay  festivals,  and  determined  character  have  all  passed  away. 
A  shade  of  melancholy  is  now  one  of  their  national  character- 
istics. Whatever  of  good  is  ingrained  in  their  characters  may  be 
in  great  part  traced  to  the  persevering  efforts  of  one  man.  This 
person  was  the  Rev.  Father  Innocentius  Venianii'noff  of  the 
Irkutsk  Seminary,  since  Bishop  of  Kamchatka.  He  alone  of 
the  Greek  missionaries  to  Alaska  has  left  behind  him  an  un- 
dying record  of  devotion,  self-sacrifice,  and  love,  both  to  God  and 
man,  combined  with  the  true  missionary  fire.  To  him  also  we 
owe  the  first  detailed  account  of  the  modern  Aleutian  character 
and  mode  of  life.  The  number  of  Aleutians  was  originally 
estimated  at  ten  thousand,  but  at  present  there  are  not  more 
25 


< ' 


is  h 


386 


ABORIGINAL   INHABITANTS. 


than  fifteen  hundred.     Many  writers  have  confounded   the  Ka- 
niagmuts  with  them,  but  they  are  quite  distinct. 

The  Aleutians,  properly  so  called,  are  divided  into  two  tribes, 
the  Atkans  and  Unakishkans.  The  former  belong  in  the  wt  stern 
part  of  the  archipelago,  and  the  latter  were  originally  coniined  to 
the  eastern  portion.  Arbitrary  transportation  of  whole  villages 
from  one  point  to  another,  of  late  has  greatly  tended,  with  the 
constant  admixture  of  Russian  blood,  to  destroy  or  obliterate 
these  distinctions.  The  chief  difference  between  the  two  dialects 
consists  in  the  method  of  forming  the  plural  of  nouns.  The 
Atkans  form  it  by  adding  s  or  s/i,  and  the  Unalashkans  by  adding 
7i^.  The  diminutive  words  of  the  former  end  in  kiitshak,  those  of 
the  latter  in  dak.  Many  of  the  words  are  more  or  less  different 
in  the  two  dialects. 

The  construction  of  the  Aleutian  dialects  is  nearly  the  same  as 
that  of  the  Kani.-igmuts,  but  the  Aleutians  count  by  the  decimal 
system  up  to  ten  thousand,  while  the  latter  can  only  compute  two 
hundred,  using  the  number  five  as  a  basis.  The  words,  almost 
without  exception,  are  quite  different  in  the  two  groups. 

The  Aleuts  are  light  and  nearly  .he  same  color  as  the  Inniiit 
of  the  northwest.  Their  features,  pi^rhaps  from  the  great  admix- 
ture of  Russian  blood,  are  more  irtelligent  and  jileasing.  The 
hair  is  usually  coarse  and  black.  The  mustache  and  beard  are 
always  very  sparse  and  of  the  same  color  as  the  hair.  Their 
stature  is  about  the  same  as  that  of  most  civilized  races  ;  if  any- 
thing, above  the  middle  height.  The  habit  of  constantly  sitting 
in  their  bidarkas,  which  are  very  contracted,  has  given  most  of 
them  a  stoop,  and  their  legs  are  usually  ill  formed.  The  women 
are  shorter  but  better  proportioned,  and  many  of  them  are  pleas- 
ing in  appearance. 

The  national  dress  of  the  Aleutians,  when  first  observed,  was  a 
long  shirt  or  parka  without  a  hood,  but  having  a  straight  collar. 
This  dress  had  tight  sleeves,  but  the  body  was  long  and  loose. 
They  wore  no  breeches,  and  their  boots  came  up  to  the  knee. 
The  parka  was  made  of  the  skins  of  fur  animals,  or  of  birds,  siieh 
as  the  puffin  and  the  diver.  Over  this,  when  in  his  boat  or  in 
bad  weather,  the  Aleut  wore  a  kamlayka  with  a  hood  which 
covered  the  head.  These  kamldykas,  or  water-proof  shirt.s,  are 
most  beautifully  embroidered,  fringed  with  feathers,  among  which 


ABORIGINAL   INHABITANTS. 


387 


ided   the  Ka- 


ma)' be  noted  especially  those  white  feathers  which  appear  on 
the  cormorant  durinjj;  the  breeding  season.  The  shirt  is  made  of 
tlie  entrails  of  the  sea- lion,  as  elsewhere  me.ntioned.  On  his  head 
the  Aleut  wore  a  peculiar  hat  made  of  a  very  thin  piece  of  wood, 
bent  and  painted  as  in  the  following  sketch.  This  hat  was  either 
painted,  or  ornamented  with  thin  sheets  or  strips  of  bone  curiously 
carved.  A  small  bird,  or  other  carving,  usually  adorned  the  apex. 
At  the  back  a  fringe  stood  out,  composed  of  the  stiff  bristles  or 
whiskers  of  the  sea-lion  {Eunictopias).  In  front  the  brim  was  pro- 
longed, so  as  to  shield  the  eyes  from  the  glare  of  the  water  and 
the  sun. 

The  clothing  of  birdskins  was  peculiar  to  the  men,  that  of  furs, 
to  the  women.  Their  houses  were  dug  in  the  earth,  lined  with 
upright  poles  of  driftwood,  and  roofed  with  planks  covered  with 
turf.  They  entered  through  holes  in  the  top  by  means  of  ladders. 
The  smaller  dwellings  had  two  or  three,  and  the  larger  from  five 
to  six,  entrances  of  the  kind.  Several  hundred  persons  would 
occupy  one  of  these  houses.  They  were  divided  by  partitions  of 
stakes,  each   space  being   appropriated   by  a  family.     No  fires 


Aleutian  hat. 


were  made  in  these  yoiirts,  and  they  were  lighted  by  oil  lamps 
made  of  hollowed  stones.  They  were  generally  so  warm  that  the 
inhabitants  sat  nearly  naked  in  them.  They  slept  under  grass 
mats,  and  their  {larkas.  "  When  they  wished  to  warm  themselves 
in  cold  weather,"  say  the  old  voyagers,  "  they  made  a  fire  of  dry 
i,Tass  and  stood  over  it"  !  The  men  practised  the  tonsure,  while 
ihe  women  cut  their  front  hair  off  in  a  line  parallel  with  the  eye- 
brows, and  tied  the  rest  in  a  knot  on  the  top  of  the  head.  Tat- 
tooing was  practised  ;  the  men  made  three  holes  in  the  under  lip 
and  one  in  the  cartilage  of  the  nose.  Both  sexes  wore  a  short 
bone  cylinder  in  the  nose,  placed  so  as  to  distend  the  nostrils.  In 
the  middle  incision  below  the  mouth  they  wore  a  rounded  or  flat 


t   1 

i 


.4'\ 


388 


ABORIGINAL   INHABITANTS. 


UijH^l 


piece  of  bone  or  stone.  In  those  at  the  corners  of  the  mouth 
they  wore  a  peculiar  labret.  These  labrcts  were  exactly  the  shape 
of  the  article  which  a  sailor  calls  a  "cleat,"  somewhat  like  a  letter 
T  very  much  depressed  and  elongated  at  the  sides. 

Some  of  the  men  wore  their  beards,  others  pulled  them  out  bv 
the  roots.  They  also  pierced  the  ears  and  wore  bone  ornaments 
in  them. 

The  most  respected  and  influential  were  those  who  were  most 
successful  in  the  chase.     The  great  ambition  of  the  Aleut  was  tn 
be  a  great  hunter.     Those  who  were  unsuccessful  were  looked 
upon  with  more  or  less  contempt.     The  number  of  wives  was  not 
limited,  except  that  the  best  hunters  had  the  greatest  number.! 
This    seldom    exceeded    four.      These  women  were   at    the  clis- 1 
posal   of  visitors  or  travellers,  guests  of  the  husband,  and  were 
sometimes  bartered  away  for  anything  which  was  greatly  desired 
There   was   no   marriage   ceremony.      The   women    made   their 
needles  of  the  bones  of  birds'  wings.     The  weapons  of  the  men  I 
were  bows  and  arrows,  lances  and  darts,  which  they  threw  skil- 
fully to  a  great  distance,  by  means  of  a  hand-board.     Both  dart- 
and  arrows  were  feathered  ;  the  shafts  were  often  of  several  picct- 
of  wood,  neatly  joined.   They  were  tipped  with  slate  or  flint,  some- 
times with   bone,  and  afterward  with  iron,  which  they  obtained 
from   the  Russians.     No  metal  except  native  copper  was  foiiiKl  I 
among  them.     They  also  usjd   stone  hatchets  and  chisels,  and 
made  a  kind  of  shield  of  wood  and  sea-weed,  which  they  used  in 
war.     They  caught  cod  and  halibut  with  bone  hooks  and  scalskir. 
or  sea-weed  lines.     They  were  improvident,  and  often  suffered 
severely  from  hunger.     Their  food  consisted  of  the  flesh  of  the 
sea-otter  and    fur   seal,  the  blubber  of  the  whale   and    sea-lioa 
fish,  wild  parsnips,  frittilaria,   berries,    snake-root,    shellfish,  and 
some   kinds   of  fucus  or  sea-weed.     These  were  generally  eaten  | 
raw,  or  sometimes  were  cooked  over  a  fire,  between  two  hollowed 
stones  cemented  with  clay. 

They  were  not  uncleanly  in  their  habits,  though  their  idea^j 
of  modesty  were  very  different  from  ours.  Both  sexes  bathtdf 
together  frequently  in  the  sea.  Young  children  were  usually  ted 
with  raw  meat.  If  an  infant  cried,  even  in  winter,  it  was  carrieJl 
to  the  seashore  and  held  naked  in  the  water  until  it  bccaniej 
quiet.     This  made  them  hardy  and  insensible  to  cold,  and  theyl 


ABORIGINAL   INHABITANTS. 


389 


of  tiic  mouth 
:tly  the  shapf 
it  like  a  Ictli  : 

,  them  out  1)} 
inc  ornaments 

ho  were  most 
;  Aleut  was  to 
1  were  looked 
wives  was  no! 
latest  number, 
e  at  the  di- 
and,  and  were 
jreatly  desired 
;n  made  tlieii 
ns  of  the  me: 
hey  threw  skil 
d.  Both  dari- 
f  several  pieces 

or  flint,  some- 

they  obtained 
iper  was  found 
id  chisels,  and 
;h  they  used  in 
ks  and  scalski:. 

often   suffered 
he  flesh  of  tk 
and    sea-lion, 
shellfish,  and 

generally  eaten 
n  two  hollowed 

vh   their  idea^ 
sexes   bathed 

ere  usually  fe^'J 
it  was  carried 

intil  it  bccaniel 
cold,  and  they 


went  barefoot  throughout  the  winter  without  inconvenience. 
Tiicy  were  fond  of  dances  and  festivals,  which  were  kept  up 
through  the  month  of  December.  Whole  villages  were  cnter- 
taiiHxl  by  other  villages.  Successive  dances  of  children,  naked 
men  beating  drums,  and  women  who  were  curiously  attired,  were 
usually  followed  by  the  incantations  of  the  shamans.  This  was 
foHowed  by  feasting,  and  then  the  ceremony  was  over. 

If  a  whale  was  cast  on  shore,  the  natives  assembled  with  joyous 
and  remarkable  ceremonies.  They  advanced  and  beat  drums  of 
different  sizes.  The  carcass  was  then  cut  up,  and  a  feast  was  held 
on  the  spot.  The  dances  had  a  mystic  significance.  Some  of 
the  men  were  dressed  in  their  most  showy  attire,  and  others 
danced  naked  in  large  wooden  masks  which  came  down  to  their 
shoulders,  and  represented  various  sea  animals. 

They  had  religious  dances  and  festivals  in  December.  During 
these,  images  or  idols  were  carried  from  island  to  island,  and 
strange  ceremonies,  of  which  we  have  only  dim  traditions,  were 
performed  in  the  night.  Some  of  these  apparently  resembled  the 
Eleusinian  mysteries.  Hundreds  of  women,  wearing  masks,  are 
said  to  have  danced  naked  in  the  moonlight,  men  being  rigidly 
exchidod  and  punished,  even  with  death,  on  intrusion.  The 
men  had  similar  dances.  An  idea  prevailed,  that,  while  these 
mystic  rites  were  going  on,  a  Spirit  or  Power  descended  into  the 
wooden  idol.  To  look  at  him  was  death  or  misfortune ;  hence 
they  wore  large  masks  carved  from  drift- 
wood, with  holes  so  cut  that  they  could  not 
see  anything  before  or  above  them,  but  only 
on  the  ground  near  their  feet.  After  the 
dances  were  over,  idols  and  masks  alike  were 
broken  up  and  cast  away.  A  further  illus- 
tration of  the  same  idea  was  shown  in  the  cus- 
tom of  placing  a  similar  mask  over  the  face  of 
a  dead  man.  These  masks  were  held  by  a 
erossbar  between  the  teeth  and  a  loop  passing 
round  the  head.  The  above  sketch  is  taken 
trom  one  which  was  found  in  a  cave  on  Una- 
liishka.  It  is,  without  doubt,  eighty  years  old,  for  since  the  ad- 
vent of  the  Russian  priests  these  relics  have  been  destroyed  by 
them  wherever  found.  They  also  destroyed  all  records  of  the 
ancient  rites  as  far  as  possible. 


Aleutian  mask. 


*  ■  ! 


390 


ABORIGINAL    INHAIilTAxVTS. 


The  method  of  burial  among  the  Aleuts  was  as  follows 
Poor  persons  were  wrapped  in  their  clothes  or  in  mats,  and  laid 
in  clefts  of  the  rock,  with  a  mask  over  the  face.  The  bodies 
of  the  wealthy  were  placed,  with  their  clothing  and  arms,  in  a  sort 
of  boat  or  cradle  made  of  driftwood.  The  cradle,  or  coffin,  was 
sluny  to  a  horizontal  pole,  which  was  supported  by  two  uprights, 
and  it  was  left  hanging  in  the  open  air.  Much  grief  and  long- 
continued  lamentations  occurred  after  a  death.  It  is  even  re- 
!  ted  that  mothers  sometimes  placed  the  bodies  of  their  dead 
infants  in  a  carefully  carved  box.  This  was  sometimes  kept  near 
them  in  the  yourt,  and  the  mother  would  watch  it  with  the 
greatest  tenderness,  wiping  away  the  mould  and  adorning  it  with 
such  ornaments  as  she  could  procure. 

Fire  was  obtained  by  striking  together  two  flints,  which  had 
been  rubbed  with  sulphur,  over  lint  strewn  with  the  same  sub- 
stance in  powder.  It  was  obtained  from  the  various  volcanic 
peaks.  They  were  very  fond  of  amber,  which  is  found  in  the 
lignite  beds,  and  used  colored  earth  for  pigments. 

These  customs  are  now  almost  entirely  passed  away.  The 
Aleut  usually  dresses  in  clothing  obtained  from  the  Russians, 
and  they  no  longer  use  their  underground  houses.  In  sonic 
places  they  have  cultivated  potatoes  since  the  beginning  of  the 
century,  but  their  food  continues  to  be  in  great  part  composed  of 
the  flesh  of  sea  animals.  All  speak  some  Russian,  and  many  of 
them  can  converse  fluently  in  that  language.  They  are  all 
nominally  Greek  Catholics,  but  there  is  very  little  knowledge  of 
the  true  principles  of  Christianity  among  them.  Veniami'nofi" 
established  schools  among  them,  but  his  successors  have  not  been 
so  faithful,  and  of  late  years  the  schools  have  been  much  if  not 
entirely  neglected.  Hence,  while  most  of  the  adults  can  read  the 
ecclesiastical  characters  used  in  the  books  of  the  church,  the 
children  are  ignorant  of  them.  While  farther  advanced  than  any 
other  native  American  tribes,  they  are  far  from  civilized,  except  in 
dress,  and  require  careful  guardianship  and  improved  methods  of 
education  to  preserve  them  from  the  rapacity  of  the  traders.  They 
are  greatly  addicted  to  the  use  of  snuff  and  of  liquor,  when  ihey 
can  obtain  it.  For  the  latter,  they  would  sell  themselves  as 
slaves,  or  dispose  of  all  their  property.  While  somewhat  dull  or 
stupid,  they  are  excessively  obstinate,  and  exhibit  little  emotion 


i_-._ 


AliORlGINAL   INHABITANTS. 


391 


/as   as   follow? 
mats,  and  laid 
z.     The  bodies 
arms,  in  a  sort 
,  or  coffin,  was 
y  two  uprights, 
grief  and  long- 
It  is  even  re- 
i  of  their  dead 
imes  kept  near 
:h    it  with  the 
doming  it  with 

nts,  which  had 
the  same  sub- 

arious  volcanic 

;  found  in  the 

s. 

d  away.  The 
the    Russians, 

ses.       In   sorr^e 

gmning  of  the 

t  composed  ol 

,  and  many  of 

They   are  all 

:  knowledge  ol 

Vcniaminoft' 

have  not  been 

n  much  if  not 

ts  can  read  the 

le  church,  the 

need  than  any 

ized,  excejit  in 

ed  methods  ot 

traders.    They 

lor,  when  ihcy 

themselves  as 

iiewhat  dull  or 

little  emotion 


of  any  kind.  They  are  very  obedient  and  sensitive,  and  would 
r.ather  commit  suicide  than  receive  a  blow.  Crime  is  almost  un- 
known among  them,  but  there  is  a  strong  sensual  element  in  ^ 
their  characters.  Their  ijrineipal  occupation,  beside  obtaining  / 
food,  is  hunting  the  sea-otter  and  k  lling  the  fur-seal.  The 
former  is  found  at  some  dist  ncc  from  land,  and  is  hunted  by 
large  parties  in  their  bidarkas.  They  follow  the  animal  with 
these  boats,  striking  it  with  lances  until,  wearied  out,  it  becomes 
an  easy  prey.  The  following  account  of  the  character  of  the 
modern  Aleutians  is  condensed  from  Veniaminoffs  description. 
It  is  marked  by  a  partiality  which  he  openly  confesses,  and  which 
is  mainly  due  to  his  own  goodness  of  heart  and  love  for  the  peo- 
ple whom  he  had  labored  so  long  to  instruct  and  elevate  above 
their  previous  melancholy  state  of  degradation  and  ignorance. 

The  reality  of  their  devotion  to  a  religion  which  they  do  not 
comprehend  may,  however,  well  be  doubted,  and  is  distinctly  de- 
nied by  Golovin  and  other  Russian  authorities.  Much  must  be 
allowed  for  the  religious  enthusiasm  of  the  writer. 

"The  Aleutians  arc  remarkably  uniform  in  character ;  those  who  ex- 
hihit  any  striking  differences,  on  inspection,  invariably  prove  to  i)e  of 
mixed  blood.  If  we  consider  that  all  the  Aleutians  togetlier  do  not 
number  over  fifteen  hundred  souls,  and  that  they  are  widely  scattered 
on  distant  islands,  often  not  seeing  their  neighbors  in  a  lifetime,  this 
uniformity  is  the  more  remarkable. 

"It  is  to  be  noticed  among  even  these  half-breeds,  that  the  character 
of  the  mother  is  ever  the  stronger,  almost  always  effacing  the  traces  of 
the  foreign  father's  blood  among  the  Creoles.  Their  most  conspicuous 
point  is  their  piety  and  their  attachment  to  their  religion.  Their  original 
Pantheism  has  entirely  disappeared  even  ;  their  songs  and  dances  are  now 
quite  dit'ferent  from  those  described  by  the  early  \oyagers.  The  idolatrous 
custom  of  dancing  with  masks  on,  in  their  secret  rites,  has  passed  away. 

"The  Aleutians  fulfil  all  (church)  duties  imposed  on  them  with  pleas- 
ure, punctuality,  devout  humility,  and  the  fear  of  (Jod.  During  my  ten 
years'  stay  among  them  I  never  met  one  who  was  an  exception.  I  do  not 
mention  fiisting,  for  they  are  accustomed  to  fasting  from  childhood,  and 
their  attention  during  service  is  untiinching,  though  tliey  </(>  not  iiiufer- 
staiid a  7C'ori/ o{  the  whole  rite.  But  nothing  has  touched  me  more  than 
their  zeal,  I  might  say  their  hunger,  to  hear  the  word  of  God. 

"  It  may  be  said  that  the  Aleutians  became  Christians  through  timid- 
ity and  credulity,  and  because  converts  were  exempted  from  three  years' 


Iff  i 


'■'■>t:    


.192 


AIJOKIGINAL    INHAHITANTS. 


tribute ;  ihniigh  this  might  have  prevailed  on  them  to  become  converts, 
it  would  not  have  made  them  sucii  faithful  and  zealous  followers  of  all 
the  precepts  of  the  church.  It  must  also  be  said  that  tlie  new  relij^ion 
must  have  seemed  rij^id  and  harsh,  limiting  them  in  their  dissipations, 
and  prohibiting  polygamy.  Ik-sides,  their  neighbors,  the  Kaniagmuts,  had 
also  a  religious  belief,  and  still  retain  it,  giving  it  up  only  with  reluctance. 

''It  is  the  custom  of  the  Aleutians  for  the  successful  hunter  or  lishcr, 
particularly  in  times  of  scarcity,  to  share  his  prize  with  all,  not  only 
taking  no  larger  share,  but  often  less  than  the  others  ;  and  if  he  has  for- 
gotten any  one  at  the  distribution,  or  any  one  arrives  too  late,  he  shares 
the  remainder  with  him.  All  those  in  need  of  assistance  hasten  to  meet 
the  returning  hunter  at  the  landing,  and  sit  down  silently  by  the  shore. 
This  is  a  sign  that  they  ask  for  aid  ;  only  the  infnm  or  orphans  send 
jiersons  to  represent  them,  and  the  hunter  divides  his  prize  without  e\ 
pecting  thanks  or  restitution.  He  rarely  receives  other  thanks  th.an  the 
expressive  'ach'  of  the  recipient.  Ifanyoftho.se  on  shore  obtain  berries 
or  roots  (which  are  never  divided),  such  persons  do  not  go  to  the  land 
ing.  that  they  may  not  be  counted  among  the  needy.  'I'his  generosity 
evidently  comes  from  the  heart. 

"  During  my  ten  years'  stay  in  Unalashka  not  a  single  case  of  murder 
has  bajjpened  among  the  Aleutians.  Not  an  attempt  to  kill,  no  fight, 
nor  even  a  considerable  dispute,  although  I  often  saw  them  drunk. 

"  It  is  a  remarkable  thing,  almost  unparalleled,  that  among  fifteen  hun- 
dred people  (the  minimum)  in  forty  years  (equal  to  si.Kty  thousand  in 
one  j'ear)  there  has  not  occurred  a  single  capital  crime !  This  is  the 
case  with  the  Aleutians  since  the  introduction  of  Christianity. 

"  If  any  one  is  injured  or  offended  he  never  uses  force  to  defend  him- 
self, and  rarely  complains,  but  leaves  the  offender  in  silence.  His  only 
revenge  is  to  fi.x  on  his  persecutor  some  apt  nickname,  but  he  never  will 
reproach  him.  I-'ven  when  the  children  get  into  dispute  among  them- 
selves (a  rare  occurrence)  they  do  not  fight  or  scold  each  other,  but  re- 
j)roach  each  other  with  the  shortcomings  of  their  parents. 

"One  reason  may  be,  that  they  have  no  oaths  or  seriously  opprobrious 
epithets  in  the  language.  Nothing  oftends  an  Aleut  so  much  as  an  un- 
deserved epithet,  especially  when  in  Russian.  It  is  regarded  as  an 
extreme  disgrace.  The  .\leuts  show  no  tendency  to  theft.  This  is 
proved  by  the  total  absence  of  locks  of  all  kinds  ;  everything  with  them 
stands  open.  It  must  not  be  saiil  that  they  never  steal,  almost  everyone 
confesses  to  it,  but  their  stealing  is  so  trivial  that  it  hardly  deserves  the 
name.  An  Aleut  might  take  a  few  leaves  of  tobacco,  he  would  prob- 
ably also  take  brandy  if  he  could  get  it,  rarest  of  all  he  takes  food,  but 
never  any  other  object,  be  it  ever  so  tempting. 


AHORir.INAL   INHAniTANTS. 


393 


"  I  l)jlieve  the  honesty  of  the  Aleut  is  owinp;  to  the  fact  that  he  is    '\ 
ahvays  contented,  no  mutter  what  his  position  may  jje.  -^ 

"The  most  ohvions  trait  in  tiie  Aleut  is  his  patience,  —  a  patience  bor- 
(k'linf;  on  insensibility.  Hardly  any  oppression  or  hardship  will  move 
liiin  to  complain.  In  Aimine  it  is  nothing  to  him  to  be  without  food  for 
three  or  four  days.  Kven  then  he  manifests  neither  by  word  nor  sign 
that  he  suffers.  When  interrogated,  no  word  crosses  his  lips,  at  the 
utmost  he  smiles!  If  the  famine  continue,  he  thinks  more  of  his  small  { 
children  than  himself;  everytiiing  he  can  find  is  for  them.  Kven  the  I 
children  show  at  such  times  a  most  modest  patience.  One  would 
think  that  an  Aleut,  after  several  days'  fasting,  would  fall  upon  food  witli 
the  greatest  greediness.  On  the  contrary,  after  having  finished  what  he 
has  to  do,  he  puts  the  first  morsel  into  his  mouth,  as  one  who,  after  a 
comfortable  breakfast,  sits  <lown  quietly  to  his  dinner. 

"  When  sick,  even  the  most  vehement  pain  does  not  produce  a  coni- 
plniiil.  Sometimes  when  hunting  he  will  himself  be  caught  in  some 
hidden  trap.  In  such  a  case  the  barbs  can  never  be  withdrawn.  The 
stick  to  which  they  are  attached  must  be  removed,  and  the  barb  pushed 
////w/i,'//  the  tlcsh.  To  this  he  submits  without  a  murmur,  or  even,  if 
alone,  performs  the  operation  himself  without  Hinching.  Such  wounds 
generally  heal  readily  under  a  treatment  of  perfect  quietness  and  absti- 
nence from  food  lor  several  days,  which  is  tiieir  invariable  remedy. 

"On  long  journeys  afoot,  or  on  the  sea,  the  Aleut  is  slow  and  de- 
liberate, but,  on  the  other  hand,  he  keeps  in  motion  all  day,  or  even 
till  he  sinks  from  fatigue.  In  some  cases  they  will  travel  from  seven- 
teen to  nineteen  hours,  or  even  over  Uventy-four  hours  by  sea,  without 
rest.  Before  they  start  on  such  a  journey  they  eat  nothing  in  the  morn- 
ing ;  as  they  say,  that  they  may  not  be  thirsty  or  short-wintled.  h'or- 
mcrly  the  Aleutians,  like  the  Koloshes,  were  in  the  habit  of  bathing 
their  cliildren  in  the  sea,  to  inure  them  to  exposure,  even  in  winter ;  but 
since  1795  this  custom  has  gradually  disappeared. 

"  The  .\leut  is  very  susceptible  to  joy  and  sorrow,  though  he  accepts 
the  former  with  great  equanimity,  wliiie  he  bears  the  latter  with  patience. 
He  is  never  known  to  sigh  or  groan  or  shed  tears.  The  latter,  even 
among  the  women,   is  almost  unheard  of. 

'■  He  never  will  show  inuuoderate  joy  ;  no  surprise  or  sudden  fortune 
can  move  him  to  it.  A  certain  feeling  of  comfort,  it  is  true,  appears  on 
his  face,  but  he  remains  quiet,  moderate,  and  grave. 

"But  are  they  then  quite  insensible  and  incapable  of  emotion?  Cer- 
tainly not,  the  opposite  is  shown,  by  their  tender  l^ve  for  their  children, 
and  the  fact  that  a  look  of  contempt  can  offend  in  the  highest  degree. 


1     I 

'   i 


394 


ABORIGINAL   INHABITANTS. 


"They  nre  quite  as  indifferent  in  regard  to  gain  as  in  other  desires. 
Contented  with  very  little,  they  desire  only  such  things  as  are  useful, 
and  beyond  that   hey  care  not  to  accumulate. 

"Their  mannci  of  conducting  a  commercial  transaction  deserves 
notice.  The  Aleuts  never  transact  business  with  each  other  person- 
ally, but  always  through  a  third  person,  wlio  is  called  'faydnak,  and  is 
generally  a  young  person.  Whoever  wishes  to  sell  anything  sends  it 
by  this  agent  into  another  house  (yourf),  particularly  if  strangers  are 
present. 

"  The  agent,  in  coming  into  the  house,  says,  '  Here  is  the  tayak ' 
(salable  objuctj,  without  mentioning  the  owner.  'l"hc  buyer  looks  at 
the  object,  asks  what  is  wanted  m  return,  keeps  the  article,  and  sends  as 
much  as  he  likes  of  the  article  required  in  return.  The  agent  takes  this 
to  the  seller,  and  if  he  is  satisfied  the  bargain  is  concluded  ;  if  not,  he 
projjoses  a  new  exchange,  or  an  additional  quantity  of  tobacco  or  other 
•ware,  to  boot.  If  the  buyer  does  not  agree  he  returns  the  article,  and 
some  one  else  makes  an  offer.  They  never  bid  over  one  another,  and, 
however  long  the  barter  may  last,  the  buyer  and  seller  never  know  each 
other's  names. 

"This  custom  of  buying  and  selling  among  the  Aleuts  is  of  great  :  go, 
and  has  been  preserved  without  change.  The  women  never  trade, 
either  among  themselves  or  with  the  men. 

"The  unselfishness  of  the  Aleut  is  proved  by  his  conduct  in  the 
chase  ;  for  instance,  otter-hunting.  It  is  almost  an  impossibility  for  one 
hunter,  or  even  one  boat-load,  to  kill  an  otter,  unless  by  a  lucky  chance 
the  animal  is  hit  exactly  in  the  eye  ;  for  which  reason  the  association  of 
several  bopts  {bidarri)  is  absolutely  necessary.  The  animal,  according 
to  an  old  custom,  belongs  to  the  hunter  who  first  hit  it  ;  or,  if  several  at 
the  first  shot  ma\-  have  wounded  it,  it  belongs  to  the  one  \>hose  niissih; 
struck  nearest  the  head. 

"  The  otter  is  found  at  sea,  at  some  distance  from  land.  A  num- 
ber of  bidarras  —  six  at  least,  and  generally  more,  sometimes  fifty- 
form  a  large  circle,  remaining  perfectly  cjuiet,  often  out  of  sight  of  land 
or  enveloped  in  fog.  The  otter  rises,  perhaps  is  struck,  dives,  and 
all  are  expectation  to  discern  him  on  his  reappearance.  One  otter  often 
rises  many  times  before  he  is  killed.  After  he  is  once  struck,  however, 
the  others  gain  nothing  by  his  death  ;  only  the  hunter  who  first  wounded 
him  can  claim  the  skin.  The  others  get  nothing  unless  they  need  and 
ask  for  a  little  of  the  flesh,  which  is  exceedingly  tough,  strong-flavored, 
and  almost  uneatable.  The  Aleut  takes  great  pleasure  in  hunting,  and 
is  perfectly  satisfied  if  he  can  kill  a  wounded  animal,  though  he  can 


\i' 


ABORIGINAL  INHABITANTS. 


395 


her  desires, 
are  useful, 

n  deserves 
her  person- 
'luxk,  and  is 
nsi  sends  it 
trangers  arc 

the  taydk ' 
ycr  looks  at 
md  sends  as 
nl  takes  this 
I  ;  if  not,  he 
icco  or  other 
i  article,  and 
inother,  and, 
•r  know  eacli 

of  great  :  ge, 
never   trade, 

uluct  in  the 
b'.lity  for  one 
lucky  chance 
ssociation  of 
al,  according 
,  if  several  at 
those  niissile 

nd.     A  num- 

jtimes  fifty  — 

sight  of  land 

i,  dives,  and 

nc  otter  often 

utk,  however, 

irst  wounded 

hey  need  ami 

onc-tlavored, 

hunting,  and 

iough  he  can 


^, 


claim  no  share  in  it.  It  often  happens  that  an  Aleut  who  has  killed 
several  otters  gives  one  or  two  to  some  sick  or  poor  person,  or  to  some 
one  v.ho  has  killed  nothing,  asking  no  return  for  it. 

"  No  one  is  esteemed  among  them  because  of  his  wealth,  only  as  a 
more  daring,  skilful,  and  courageous  hunter.  Any  one  who  does  not 
possess  these  qualifications,  be  he  ever  so  wealthy,  is  mocked  by  his 
companions. 

"  The  Aleut  is  extremely  tenacious  of  purpose,  even  to  obstinacy. 
If  he  decides  to  do  anything,  physical  impossibility  only  can  deter  him; 
ne  reckons  not  loss  of  health,  nor  the  fact  that  he  will  gain  nothing  by 
it  ;  neither  flatteries,  promises,  nor  expectation  of  reward  y''.  move  him. 
Absolute  orders  from  a  superior,  it  is  true,  will  be  heeded,  but  slowly 
and  with  the  greatest  reluctance  imaginable.  The  Aleut  is  very  cau- 
tious in  binding  himself  in  any  way.  He  does  not  flatter  nor  make 
empty  jjromises,  even  in  order  to  escape  reproof  But  if  he  has  once 
promised  a  thing,  one  can  count  with  certainty  upon  it.  He  promises 
and  gives  away  without  expectation  of  reward,  'f  he  makes  a  wealthy 
person  a  presc  it,  he  never  expects  a  return.  If  he  receives  a  gift,  he 
accepts  it,  saying,  ^  Ak/i !'  which  means  thanks.  He  is  satisfied  if  he 
receive  nothing,  especially  if  he  is  thanked  ;  but  he  never  asks  for  any- 
thing in  return.  If  he  promises  anything,  he  regards  it  as  no  longer 
his  property,  and  he  does  not  make  use  of  it,  even  in  oases  of  great 
necessity. 

"Visiting  the  island  of  Umnak,  an  Aleut,  by  the  name  of  Taraxanoff, 
gave  me  a  pair  of  dried  flounders.  Although  there  was  no  want  of 
provisions,  I  accepted  them  ;  for  to  refuse  a  gift,  al)ove  all,  .1  small  one, 
is  an  offence;  he  would  consider  himself  despised,  or,  as  h(;  says,  'not 
loved.'  As  there  was  .tjundance  oi'  provision,  my  oarsmen  forgot  the 
fish  ;  but,  after  we  had  gone,  Taraxiinoff  found  and  kept  them,  in  order 
to  return  them  when  we  met  again.  Up  to  January  there  was  no  oppor- 
tunity. In  the  mean  time  he  and  the  whole  settlement  were  starving  in 
November  and  December,  so  that  the  whole  village  was  supported  by  a 
single  bidarra  leader.  Notwithstanding  my  Aleut  had  to  support  a 
numerous  family,  he  did  not  touch  the  fish,  and  in  January  conscien- 
tiously sent  them  to  me.  Such  cases  are  not  rare  among  the  Aleuts, 
they  ilo  not  consider  them  anything  remarkable. 

"  Although  they  express  no  great  gratitude  for  favors,  and  are  chary 
iif  expressions  of  thanks,  they  do  not  forget  kindness,  and  endeavor  to 
express  their  thankfulness  by  deeds.  If  any  one  assists  an  Aleut,  and 
alfCrwards  offends  him,  he  does  not  forget  the  former  favor,  and  in  his 
mind  it  often  cancels  the  offence. 


,;i.i* 


396 


ABORIGINAL  INHABITANTS. 


??-'- 


±.1. 


"  With  all  their  caprice  the  Aleuts  are  very  tractable,  obeying  their 
superiors  blindly,  though  certain  death  awaits  them. 

"  The  following  instance  affords  proof  of  the  above  statement :  — 

"  In  1795  the  captain  of  a  bidarra,  named  Vasaroff,  a  Russian,  had 
been  on  Amak  Island,  nenr  False  Pass,  hunting  sea-lions  with  some 
Aleuts.  After  finishing  his  ousiness  he  wished  to  cross  to  the  niaiih 
land,  when  the  old  Aleuts  told  him  that  be  might  put  to  sea,  but  that  the 
surf  would  not  allow  him  to  land  in  Aliaska.  He  did  not  mind  their 
warning,  either  because  he  was  in  haste  or  because  he  did  not  believe 
them,  but  resolved  to  put  to  sea,  and  allowed  only  the  free  Aleuts  to 
remain  behind  with  their  boats. 

"  Those  who  were  in  the  C'ompany's  service  took  leave  of  their  coun- 
trymen like  men  who  never  expect  to  see  one  another  again  ;  and  they 
made  some  disposition  regarding  their  property,  until  Vasaroff,  annoyed 
by  the  crying  of  the  women  in  tiie  v.  ther  boats,  called  out  that  they  were 
cowardly,  superstitious,  and  stupid.  What  followed  bore  out  the  fears  of 
the  Aleuts.  The  bidarra,  at  the  distance  of  three  quarters  of  a  mile 
from  the  very  flat  coast,  was  swamped  by  the  surf,  and  all  on  board 
drowned. 

"  These  people  detest  lying,  and  never  spread  false  rumors,  although 
they  are  credulous  and  fond  of  repeating  stories  which  have  been  told 
them,  but  without  adding  to  thcin.  They  are  very  much  offended  if  any 
one  doubts  their  word. 

"  They  are  also  very  averse  to  speaking  of  things  which  should  bo 
kept  secret,  or  vvhich  they  consider  should  not  be  told.  For  this  reason 
it  is  impossible  to  ascertain  anything  at  present  about  their  former  re- 
ligious customs. 

"On  the  other  hand,  they  are  very  fond  of  relating  events  to  each 
ether  which  strike  them  as  ludicrous. 

"  They  never  boast  of  their  exploits,  and  despise  hypocrisy  in  every 
lespect. 

"  The  Aleut  knows  nothing  of  what  civilized  nations  call  modesty. 
He  has  his  own  ideas  of  what  is  modest  and  proper,  and  adheres  to 
them  ;  while  we  should  consider  thrm  foolish.  He  is  bashful  if  caught 
doing  anything  unusual  among  his  people,  or  when  he  fails  to  kill  an 
animal  under  favorable  circumstances.  He  is  ashamed  to  step  into  the 
centre  of  a  large  circle  and  dance,  even  if  he  is  an  adept  at  it.  He 
does  not  like  to  address  his  wife  in  the  presence  of  strangers,  nor  to  ask 
her  for  anything,  even  if  he  needs  it  badly.  He  is  bashful  if  he  muM 
buy  or  sell  anything  for  himself,  or  when  praised  in  the  presence  of  a 
person  whose  opinion  has  any  value  for  him.     Uut  he  does  not  blush 


ABORIGINAL  INHABITANiS. 


397 


jeying  their 

ent  :  — 
Russian,  had 

with  some 
:j  the  main- 
but  that  the 

mind  their 

not  beheve 
ie  Aleuts  to 

"  their  coun-  '> 
n  ;  and  they 
oft*  annoyed 
at  tliey  were 
the  fears  of 
rs  of  a  mile 
dl  on  board 

)rs,  although 
,'6  been  told 
"ended  if  any 

1  should  be 
r  this  reason 
ir  former  re- 
mits to  each 
risy  in  every 

all  modesty, 
adheres  to 
ful  if  caught 
s  to  kill  an 
step  into  the 
:  at  it.  Hi 
i,  nor  to  ask 
1  if  he  mu>i 
esence  of  a 
s  not  blush 


when  bathing  among  strangers,  as  is  the  universal  custom,  even  among 
women,  nor  at  appearing  without  clothing  among  people.  'I'he  women 
are  ashamed  if  they  cannot  sew  or  dance ;  they  blush  to  caress  their 
husbands,  or  even  to  address  them  before  strangers  ;  but  they  bare  the 
breast  for  their  children  without  hesitation,  and  bathe  with  all  the 
inhabitants  of  the  village. 

"The  Aleuts  are  not  inhospital)le,  but  they  practise  hospitality  in  their 
own  way.  They  meet  every  stranger  at  the  landing-place,  though  rarely 
saluting  them  by  word  or  sign,  except  where  they  have  learned  the  cus- 
tom, daily  becoming  more  universal,  from  the  Russians.  If  the  stranger 
lias  a  relative  or  intimate  friend  he  goes  to  him ;  it"  not,  no  one  will 
invite  him,  but  all  are  ready  to  receive  him  ;  he  can  choose  his  quar- 
ters himself.  Then  he  is  entertained  in  the  best  manner ;  the  woman 
of  the  house  takes  care  of  his  clothing,  mends  his  kamlayka  or  whatever 
stands  in  need  of  repair  ;  but  she  is  not  obliged  to  receive  him,  as  was 
formerly  customary.  Tiiey  never  think  of  asking  their  guest  for  any- 
thing, let  him  stay  as  long  as  he  may  ;  they  evti-?  provide  him  with  food  of 
every  kind  when  he  departs.  Those  who  have  come  in  contact  with  the 
Russ".  have  become  used  to  invite  each  other  on  festive  occasions, — 
birth(  ^  .  ud  the  like.  At  such  times  everythmg  is  put  upon  the  table 
that  can  be  had.  Stores  collected  with  the  greatest  trouble  and  fatigi  : 
disappear  in  an  evening,  and  even  if  the  host  has  not  a  mouthful  for  the 
morrow  he  esteems  himself  fortunate  to  have  had  so  many  visitors. 
ParentP.l  ami  fdial    '"'"';rtion  are  strong  traits  of  this  people. 

"The  children  are  often  well  fed  and  satisfied,  while  the  patents  almost 
perish  with  hunger,  'he  daintiest  morsel,  the  best  dress,  is  always  kept 
for  them.  A  child  has  i  jvcr  been  known  to  injure  its  parent.  On  the 
contrary  tney  often  give  up  the  most  advantageous  positions,  that  they 
may  see  them  again,  or  take  care  of  them,  in  old  age. 

"Two  of  the  mo.st  intelligent  Aleuts,  who  had  been  taken  to  St. 
Petersburg,  who  were  beloved  by  their  superiors  and  comrades,  and 
making  much  money  by  exhibiting  theii-  skin  boats  on  the  Neva,  left 
everything,  that  they  might  see  their  aged  mother  apin,  and  take  care 
of  her  in  her  old  age.  One  of  diem,  i'ors  nikoff,  wiio  had  become 
much  attached  to  Russia,  has  lived  with  her  since  1820.  and  tries  to 
insure  her  every  possil)le  comfort,  in  the  nwst  tender  mr.nner.  He  is 
now  (1834)  fifty  years  old,  and  with  his  wife  bears  with  exemplary  patience 
all  the  discomfort  caused  by  an  old,  sick,  blind  woman.  Such  instances 
are  not  rare.  I  only  mention  this  because  his  tender,  tiuly  jiious  care 
of  iiis  mother  has  otten  moved  me  to  tears. 

"  The  Aleut  is  emphatically  undemonstrative,  no  politeness  must  be 


mm 


u4 


?l 


i  i'. 


Ilil     :l  i 


398 


ABORIGINAL  INHABITANTS. 


•1 


looked  for  from  him  ;  a  bright  look>  zeal  in  performing  a  service,  and  a 
peculiar  intonation  of  his  'akh,'  alone  show  his  attaciiment  to  a  person. 

"  They  are  slight  talkers,  even  keeping  silent  for  a  whole  day,  or  oven 
longer,  particularly  if  dissatisfied  in  any  way.  Still,  in  the  long  even- 
ings they  recount  their  hunting  adventures  of  the  day,  often  not  leavins; 
even  the  slightest  item  untold.  In  transacting  important  business  they 
use  few  words  ;  tiie  toyon  or  elder  explains  the  matter  to  them,  a  short 
yes,  or  no,  and  the  matter  is  settled. 

"  They  are  naturally  timid,  punishment  of  any  kind  being  unknown 
among  them.  Their  former  mode  of  war  showed  that  there  was  very 
little  '  fight '  in  tlieir  composition,  being  a  secret  conspiracy,  carried 
out  through  an  ambush  or  sudden  surprise,  which,  if  not  successful,  was 
followed  by  a  speedy  retreat. 

"They  never  dispute,  not  even  when  convinced  tliey  are  right;  it 
doubt  be  expressed  they  are  silent,  or  answer  only,  '  I  do  not  know ;  you 
are  certainly  better  informed.' 

"They  are  credulous  in  regard  to  things  which  they  do  not  under- 
stand, but  they  are  apt  to  read  a  braggart  better  than  he  can  tell ;  al- 
though they  never  express  disbelief  to  his  face,  yet  they  make  meny 
over  him  in  his  absence.  Naturally  inclined  to  be  just,  the  Aleut  feels 
deeply  an  undeserved  injury,  and  1  am  inclined  to  agree  witli  some  trav- 
ellers who  say  the  Aleuts  were  a  very  revengeful  people.  The  wars 
raging  before  the  advent  of  the  Russians,  and  the  frequent  attacks  to 
which  the  latter  were  subject,  show  this  to  be  true.  Now  it  is  quite 
different;  since  the  introduction  of  Christianity  no  instance  of  revenge 
has  been  known.  The  only  satisfaction  they  allow  themselves  is  an 
absolute  silence  toward  the  offender,  till  that  person  has  repaired  the 
wrong. 

"  The  Aleuts  are  ver>'  dirty,  tiiough  they  wash  daily,  and  are  fond  of 
bathing.  Dirt  is  piled  up  close  to  the  yourt ;  they  prepare  their  food 
very  carelessly  ;  the  household  utensils  are  never  washed.  The  children 
are  usually  dirty,  with  unkempt  hair,  and  the  women  are  very  disorderly, 
dirty,  and  careless.  Their  poverty,  it  is  true,  does  not  admit  of  much 
cleanliness.  A  man  who  has  only  one  parka,  which  he  uses  at  once  for 
clothing,  bed,  and  blanket,  cannot  keep  always  clean.  He  who  h;is 
eaten  sour,  fermented  ftjod  from  his  childhood,  with  tlie  disgusting  smell 
of  which  he  is  perfectly  familiar,  cannot  hate  dirt.  I  believe  that  their 
olfactory  organs  must  become  quite  obtuse.  Many  Aleuts,  however, 
particularly  those  who  have  been  much  in  contact  with  the  Russians^, 
form  praiseworthy  exceptions,  and  have  improved  their  dwellings  so  tliat 
strangers  may  enter  without  disgust. 


ABORIGINAL   INHABITANTS. 


399 


•vice,  and  a 

0  a  person. 
lay,  or  even 

long  even- 
not  leavinsT 
isinoss  they 
lem,  a  short 

ig  unknown 
re  was  very 
acy,  carried 
cessful,  was 

re  right  ;  ii 
know ;  you 

not  under- 
;an  tell ;  al- 
nake  nieny 

Aleut  feels 

1  some  trav- 
The  wars 

t  attacks  to 

it  is  quite 

of  revenge 

elves  is  an 

epaired  the 

are  fond  of 
r  their  food 
he  children 
disorderly, 
lit  of  niucii 
at  once  for 
e  who  has 
isting  smell 
e  that  their 
s,  however, 
Russians, 
inirs  .so  that 


"  They  are  bad  housekeepers,  lavish  when  food  is  plenty,  and  in 
consequence  starving  in  spring.  Some  have  commenced  gardens,  but 
this  also  they  follow  negligently.  February,  in  their  language,  is  the 
'hunger  month.'  Their  improvidence  is  partly  owing  to  their  chief 
dependence  being  (he  sea,  which  always  ofters  them  something,  or  the 
tundras,  which  furnish  them  with  roots.  If  both  fail  them,  there  remain 
only  patience  and  resignation. 

"  Yet  there  are  some  exceptions,  and  particularly  one  settlement  in 
Aliaska,  called  Pauiosk.  They  use  their  provisions  with  a  praiseworthy 
economy,  and  hence  seldom  suffer  from  want.  They  were  the  first  to 
learn  from  the  Katliak  missi<jnaries  the  cultivation  of  the  potato,  which 
they  have  carried  on  so  well  since  the  commencement  of  this  century  that 
they  plant  annually,  and  have  always  saved  the  seed.  They  have  more 
leisure  to  themselves  than  most  Aleuts,  as  there  are  nj  Russians  in  the 
settlement. 

"They  are  universally  reproached  with  la/.ines.s.  It  has  been  even 
said  that  an  Aleut  will  lie  and  suffer  from  thirst  for  hours,  unless  some 
one  sends  him  after  water.     I  do  not  doubt  the  truth  of  it  in  some  cases. 

"It  must  be  remembered  that  their  indolence  depends  on  circum- 
stances, and  that  they  are  as  active  and  busy  when  the  hunting  season 
conies,  or  they  are  at  work  carving,  as  they  are  indolent  at  other  times. 
Their  indolence  while  working  for  the  Company  is  as  great  as  their 
activity  when  working  for  themselves  ;  so  that  under  ditferent  circum- 
stances they  appear  like  different  individuals.  Tho.se  who  have  lived 
among  the  Russians  are  great  drunkards,  and  they  are  all  passionately 
addicted  to  the  use  of  tobacco. 

"  They  incline  to  sensuality.  Before  the  teachings  of  the  Christian 
religion  had  enlightened  them,  this  inclination  had  full  sway.  T'he 
nearest  consanguinity  only,  put  limits  to  their  passions.  Although  po- 
lygamy was  general,  nevertheless,  there  were  frequent  secret  orgies,  in 
which  all  joined.  The  strange  guest  shared  all  marital  rights  with  his 
host,  'i'he  bad  example  and  worse  teachings  of  the  early  Russian 
settlers  increased  their  tendency  to  licentiousness.  The  introduction 
of  Christianity  abolished  many  of  these  customs  (some  of  which  had 
a  religious  significance)  with  polygamy  ;  but  still  ■secret  orgies  were  held, 
and  the  births  were  very  much  fewer  than  they  should  have  been  up  to 
1.SJ5-1827.  Child-murder  is  very  rare,  tije  belief  still  being  that  it 
brings  misfortune  on  the  whole  village,  ami  that  the  murdered  babe  is 
heard  crying  every  night. 

"  However,  I  am  able  to  declare  that  the  tendency  to  dissipation  de- 
creases day  by  day,  the  number  of  births  has  almost  doubled,  notwitb- 


400 


ABORIGINAL   INHABITANTS. 


;i 


fk.  it 


[!}!>■ 


MJ)| 


standing  there  are  only  one  fourth  as  many  illegitimixte  ones  as  formerly; 
and  I  believe  that  dissipation  in  future,  if  not  entirely  eradicated,  will 
be  confined  within  very  narrow  bounds. 

"  It  is  to  be  regretted  that  those  who  have  most  imitated  the  Russian 
custon^is  have  always  become,  gradually,  the  most  worthless  and  in- 
dolent, apparently  losing  their  native  virtues  and  acquiring  foreign 
vices,  while  the  dark  side  of  their  character  grows  rapidly  darker.  It 
may  be  said,  however,  as  i  consolation  to  the  well-wishers  of  the  Aleuts, 
that  these  individuals  are  very  rare,  and  confined  to  the  chief  settlement. 
In  such  cases  their  patience  and  fnmncss  degenerate  into  stubbornness 
and  obstinacy.  If,  in  addition,  they  liad  the  means  of  readily  obtain- 
ing strong  liquors,  they  might  easily  become  insufferable,  or  even  dan- 
gerous. 

"  The  Aleuts  learn  readily,  ahnost  without  teaching,  not  only  mechan- 
ical things,  but  those  which  require  thought,  such  as  ];laying  chess. 
There  are  found  among  them  very  good  joiners,  carpenters,  coopers, 
locksmiths,  blacksmiths,  and  sailors. 

"A  certain  Ustiakoff  was  considered  an  excellent  navigator.  His 
charts  of  several  districts,  including  Nushergak,  are  considered  ])retty 
correct  to  this  day  (1834). 

"  Many  Aleuts,  particularly  those  of  the  Prfbyloff  Islands,  are  excel- 
lent chess-players. 

"  The  adults  are  eager  to  learn  to  read,  but  only  for  the  purpose  of 
reading  the  ecclesiastical  books  of  the  (ireek  Church,  although  they 
understand  hardly  anything  of  their  contents. 

"  It  is  to  be  regretted  very  much  that  their  talent  for  drawing  and 
painting  has  never  been  promoted.  I  am  convinced  that  they  would 
become  artists  above  mediocrity.  They  are  very  skilful  workers  in 
ivory  (walrus-tusks)  without  instruction.  I  saw  in  the  possession  of 
Baron  Wrangell  a  number  of  characteristic  representations  of  anima's. 
They  are  very  fond  of  cutting  caricatures  of  the  Russians,  and  off  en 
make  an  excellent  likeness  of  the  person  intended,  though 
very  grotesque.  This  shows  that  they  havi  vivid  imagi- 
nations and  faithu;!  memories." 

The  talent  for  carving  above  alluded  to,  is  ex- 
emplified by  the  accompanyini;  sketch  of  an  image, 
or  caricature,  of  one  of  the  sailors  of  Wilkes's  Ex- 
pedition. The  sailor's  shoes,  pea-jacket,  and  mode 
of  wearing  the  hair,  are  accurately  represented,  and 
the  general  effect  is  very  comical,  as  was  doubtless 
Aleut  carving,      intended  by  the  artist. 


as  formerly ; 
xdicaled,  will 

the  Russian 
iless  and  in 
tiring  foreign 
y  darker.     It 
of  the  Aleuts. 
ef  settlement, 
stubbornness 
eadily  obtain- 
or  even  dan- 
only  mechan- 
playing  chess, 
nters,  coopers, 

avigator.     His 
isidered  pretty 


in 


ds,  are  excel- 


the  purpose  ot 
although  they 


f  I. 


hawing  and 
.at  they  would 
tul  workers  in 
:  possession  of 
3ns  of  anima"s. 
ans,  and  oficn 

nded, though 
vivid  imagi- 


tc 


Vf 


ed  to,  is  ex- 

cf  an  image, 

Wilkes's  Kx- 

:et,  and  mode 

)resented,  and 

was  doubtless 


ABORIGINAL   INHABITANTS. 


401 


The  Innuit  Tribes. —  The  Innuit  of  Alaska  extend  everywhere 
along  the  coast,  from  Mount  St.  Elias  northward  to  Point  Barrow, 
and  eastward  to  the  Mackenzie. 

The  Ugahihmuts. —  Beginninj,^  at  the  southward,  this  is  the 
first  Innuit  tribe  on  the  west  coast  of  America.  Their  hunting- 
grounds  extend  from  Icy  Bay  nearly  to  the  mouth  of  the  Atna  or 
Copper  River.  We  only  know  of  their  existence  and  mode  of  life 
by  a  vocabulary  obtained  by  Mr.  Gibbs  from  the  Russian  traders, 
and  by  the  statements  of  the  latter,  that  they  form  a  body  of 
some  two  hundred  families,  who  chiefly  live  by  fishing.  Between 
tliem  and  the  next  tribe  the  Indians  of  the  Copper  River  have 
forced  their  way,  and  hold  a  small  portion  of  the  coast. 

'Tlie  CJiHgnchignutts.  —  These  Innuit  occupy  the  shores  and 
islands  of  Chugach  Gulf,  and  the  southwest  coasts  of  the  penin- 
sula of  Kendi.  They  are  few  in  nimibcr,  compared  with  the 
large  extent  of  territory  which  they  occupy,  but  are  described  as 
active  and  warlike.  They  have  on  several  occasions  successfully 
(kfiL'd  the  Russian  traders,  and  have  never  been  obliged  to 
render  personal  service  or  tribute.  The  gap  between  them  and 
the  following  tribe,  comprising  the  north  shore  of  Kcnai  and  the 
opposite  coast  of  Cook's  Inlet,  is  occupied  by  Indians. 

TIic  Kauidgmiits.  —  This,  the  largest  and  most  powerful  tribe 
of  Innuit  on  the  Alaskan  coast,  occupies  the  island  of  Kadi.Jw 
(formerly  Kanidg)  and  the  greater  part  of  the  peninsula  of 
Aliaska,  from  Iliamna  Lake  to  the  159th  degree  of  west  longi- 
tude. They  were  confounded  with  the  Aleuts  by  the  early  voy- 
agers, and  called  by  the  same  name.  They  were  a  much  more 
energetic  and  indomitable  race,  meeting  force  with  force,  and  re- 
fusing to  give  up  their  ancient  customs  at  the  behest  of  Russian 
priests.  Although  time  and  constant  intercourse  with  the  Rus- 
sians far  more  than  a  century  have  changed  them,  still  the  change 
is  much  less  than  that  which  has  taken  place  among  the  Aleuts. 
Lisianskw  who  visited  them  in  1805,  has  given  a  full  account  of 
^  their  iormer  manners  and  customs,  and  irom  it  I  have  obtained 
■  much  of  the  following  information. 

The  Kanidgmuts  are  of  middle  stature,  and  a  complexion 
more  reddish  than  that  cf  the  Aleiiiians  or  more  northern  riiiu!  t. 


They 


are  stoutly  buill,  with  large,  broad   faces,  and   their  hair   is 


coarse,  black,  antl  straight. 
26 


m 


W 


-M 


\m 


!!  m 


402 


ABORIGINAL   INHABITANTS. 


The  tonsure  was  rarely  practised  among  them.  The  women 
cut  their  hair  short  in  front  and  wore  it  in  a  sort  of  club  behind. 
The  men  sometimes  cut  their  hair  very  short  all  over  the  head. 
The  dress  of  both  sexes  consisted  of  kamlaykas  and  parkies, 
the  latter  shorter  than  those  worn  by  thj  Aleutians,  llie  men 
wore  a  belt  with  a  kind  of  apron  hanging  down  in  front  to  the 
middle  of  the  thigh.  The  women  used  a  broad  sealskin  belt, 
without  the  apron.  Both  sexes  wore  caps  made  of  the  skins  of 
sea-birds,  or  hats  plaited  from  spruce  roots  painted  and  decorated 
with  grotesque  carved  figures.  They  went  barefoot,  except  while 
travelling,  when  they  wore  sealskin  boots.  Both  sexes  were  very 
fond  of  beads  and  other  ornaments.  The  labrets  were  of  the 
same  description  as  those  worn  among  the  Aleuts.  The  women 
wore  strings  of  beads  suspended  from  the  lower  lip,  and  had  the 
ears  pierced  all  round  for  the  same  purpose.  They  also  tattooed 
the  chin,  breast,  and  back.  They  were  exceedingly  fond  of  amber, 
upon  which  they  placed  the  greatest  value. 

For  provisions  they  relied  mainly  on  fish  and  the  blubber  of 
the  whale.  The  latter  was  a  prime  delicacy  even  when  putrid. 
Shell-fish,  roots,  and  berries  also  formed  part  of  their  fare.  Much 
of  their  food  was  consumed  in  a  raw  condition. 

A  young  man  desiring  to  take  a  wife  was  accustomed  to  visit 
the  parents  of  the  girl  he  desired,  taking  his  most  valuable  treas- 
ures with  him.  If  they  were  satisfied  with  him,  he  made  them 
presents  until  they  said,  "  Enough."  If  he  did  not  please  them,  he 
returned  home  with  his  property.  There  was  no  ceremony  at- 
tending marriage;  but,  when  food  was  plenty,  the  father-in-law 
usually  gave  a  feast.  The  next  day  the  husband  prepared  a  hot 
bath,  which  is  the  custom  of  purification  for  him  and  his  wife. 
He  always  lived  with  his  wife's  parents,  and  was  obliged  to  serve 
them.  This  custom  is  still  in  vogue  among  the  Aleuts.  Po- 
lygamy was  formerly  much  practised.  The  most  revolting  of  the 
ancient  customs  of  the  Kaniagmuts  (also  common  to  the  Aleuts) 
was  that  of  keeping  s/ni/>a>is,  or  men  who  were  dressed  and 
brought  up  like  females,  and  supplied  their  places.  These  un- 
natural beings  so  nearly  imitated  the  manner  and  appearance  of 
women,  that  strangers  would  frequently  take  them  for  such,  ami 
tic  Kadiak  priest  once  nearly  married  one  of  them  to  a  toyon  oi- 
chief  who  came  in  for  the  purpose.     Fortunately,  an  interprcler 


ABORIGINAL   INHABITANTS. 


403 


he  women 
xh  bcbiiid. 

the  head, 
d  parkics, 

The  men 
ont  to  the 
.Iskin   belt, 
tie  skins  of 
1  decorated 
jvcept  while 
3  were  very 
/ere  of  the 
rhe  women 
nd  had  the 
so  tattooed 
id  of  amber, 

blubber  of 
hen  putrid, 
fare.     Much 


m 


ed  to  visit 
able  treas- 
made  them 
ise  them,  he 
eremony  at- 
ather-in-law 
pared  a  hot 
id  his  wife, 
ed  to  serve 
IXleuts.     To- 
ting of  the 
the  Aleuts) 
ressed   and 
These  un- 
pearance  of 
r  such,  and 
o  a  toyon  or 
\  interpreter 


came  to  the  priest  and  informed  him,  before  the  ceremony  was 
finished,  that  the  couple  he  was  joining  in  marriage  were  both 
males. 

The  bodies  of  the  dead  were  formerly  buried  in  the  ground. 
They  were  wrapped  in  furs  and  sealskins,  and  large  stones  or 
pieces  of  wood  were  piled  over  the  grave.  The  spectators  went 
home  as  soon  as  the  interment  was  over,  but  the  parents  of  the 
deceased  waited  near  the  spot  until  sunset.  A  slave  was  for- 
merly killed  over  the  graves  of  the  wealthy,  broken  beads  and 
pieces  of  amber  were  strewn  over  the  grave,  and  high  poles  some- 
times erected.  The  weapons  of  hunters  were  buried  with  them, 
and  the  frame  of  a  kyak  placed  over  the  spot.  The  relations 
were  loud  in  their  grief  for  the  dead,  and  e.xhibited  their  mourn- 
ing by  blackening  the  face  and  cutting  the  hair  short.  The  sur- 
vivor of  a  married  couple  retiree,  for  a  certain  period  to  another 
settlement.  When  a  child  died,  the  mother  secluded  herself  for 
ten  or  fifteen  days  in  a  small  hut  built  for  the  purpose. 

The  same  custom  prevailed  when  a  child  was  born,  and  for 
twenty  days  the  mother  was  considered  so  unclean  that  no  one 
would  touch  her,  and  her  food  was  given  to  her  on  the  end  of  a 
stick.  When  the  twenty  days  were  over,  the  mother  and  child 
took  a  warm  and  then  a  cold  bath,  and  were  then  v^onsidered  clean. 
At  this  time  the  incisions  for  the  labrets  and  in  the  nose  of  the 
child  were  made.  The  same  custom  was  observed  by  women  at 
certain  periods,  and  they  were  not  considered  clean  until  after  the 
usual  ablutions.  The  huts  to  which  they  retired  were  built  of 
reeds  and  grass,  and  were  only  about  three  feet  square. 

The  principal  pursuits  of  these  Innuit  were  hunting  the  seal, 
whale,  sea-otter,  and  fur-seal.  They  also  caught  auks,  divers, 
and  puffins,  in  nets  ;  from  the  skins  they  made  clothing,  and  con- 
sumed the  flesh.  Fish  were  also  obtained  in  nets,  and  with  the 
hook  and  line. 

Their  weapons  were  spears,  harpoons,  and  arrows.  The  tools 
used  in  carving  and  working  in  wood  were  stone  adzes,  sharp- 
ened fragments  of  shell,  which  have  been  surperseded  by  crooked 
knives,  a  polishing-stone,  and  a  tooth  fixed  in  a  wooden  handle  and 
Used  as  a  gouge. 

The  art  of  carving  has  somewhat  declined  from  its  ancient  per- 
fection, but  they  still  practise  it. 


^  illi; 


404 


AUORIGINAL   INHAIHTANTS. 


I  H' 


PJ 


n  !^  I 


h 


ih 


vk. 

w 


iF'*' 


The  woman  were  only  surpassed  in  tlieir  needlework  by  the 
Aleutians.  They  were  great  gamblers,  and  had  several  games, 
one  resembling  diee,  and  another  which  consisted  in  throwing 
flat  pieces  of  wood  at  a  painted  skin.  These  counted  according 
to  the  part  of  the  skin  on  which  they  fell ;  the  game  was  one  hun- 
dred and  twelve  points. 

The  single  and  two-holed  bidarkas  have  been  in  use  since  the 
discovery  of  the  country.  The  three-holed  bidarka  is  an  inven- 
tion of  the  Russians.  All  the  Orarian  tribes,  except  the  Aleu- 
tians and  Kaniagmuts,  have  single  bidarkas  or  kyaks.  The 
festivals  and  dances  of  these  natives  resembled  those  of  the 
Aleutians. 

Those  who  attack  the  whale,  were  considered  by  their  coun- 
trymen, during  the  fishing  season,  as  unclean,  though  otherwise 
they  were  held  in  high  honor.  They  only  attempted  to  kill  the 
smaller  species.  A  singular  custom  obtained  among  the  whalers, 
of  stealing  the  bodies  of  dead  hunters  who  had  been  successful  in 
the  chase,  and  secreting  them  in  caves.  This  was  thought  to  ren- 
der the  possessor  of  such  trophies  prosperous  in  his  fishery;  and 
these  caves,  with  their  contents,  were  bequeathed  from  father  to 
son,  until  the  number  of  bodies  sometimes  amounted  to  twenty. 

The  houses  were  composed  of  a  single  large  room,  which  an- 
swered the  purposes  of  a  store-room,  work-room,  and  dance-house, 
resembling  the  casinos  of  the  more  northern  Innuit.  Into  this 
room  opened  the  doors  of  the  excavations  in  which  the  different 
families  lived  and  slept,  and  were  even  sometimes  buried.  These 
were  called  jupaii.  Blocks  of  wood  ornamented  with  sea-otter 
teeth  served  for  a  pillow,  and  separated  the  space  on  which  the 
natives  slept  from  the  rest  of  the  room.  Fires  were  built  in 
winter  in  the  jiipan,  and  they  were  very  warm.  Sealskins  and 
dry  grass  served  for  a  bed.  The  natives  were  fond  of  hot  baths, 
which  resembled  those  of  the  Norton  Sound  Innuit. 

Shamanism  was  much  practised  by  the  Kaniagmuts,  and  fre- 
quently large  presents  were  made  to  the  shamans,  while  those 
among  the  Aleuts  did  not  receive  payment  for  their  services. 
Other  wise  men,  called  kasi'k,  taught  the  children  the  different 
dances  and  superintended  the  public  festivals.  They  were  re- 
garded as  second  only  to  the  shamans. 

The  Kaniagmuts  trace  their  ancestry  from  the  offspring  of  a 


I 

.'t 


iiii, 


III 


ABORIGINAL   INHAniTANTS. 


405 


k  by  the 


games, 


.1 

throwing 

iccorcUng 

one  hun- 

sincc  tlic 
an  invcn- 
Ihe  Alcu- 
iks.     The 
so    of  UK- 
heir  coun- 
otherwisc 
to  kill  the 
le  whalers, 
iccessful  in 
ght  to  ren- 
ihery  ;  and 
n  father  to 
)  twenty, 
which  an- 
ince-house. 

Into  this 
10  different 
cd.  These 
sea-otter 

which  the 

e  built  in 
alskins  and 

hot  baths, 

ts,  and  fre- 
while  those 
;ir  services, 
le  different 
ey  were  re- 

Ispring  of  a 


h 


;r 


dog,  and  assert  that  the  island  of  Kadiak  was  separated  from 
Aliaska  by  a  large  otter,  who  pushed  through  from  Cook's  Inlet. 
At  present  many  of  them  profess  the  Greek  Catholic  religion,  but 
retain  at  the  same  time  their  old  superstitions.  Many  of  their 
habits  arc  very  dirty,  while  in  intelligence  and  morals  they  fall 
far  behind  the  Aleutians. 

The  Oglaniits.  —  This  tribe  inhabits  the  north  coast  of  Aliaska 
from  the  159th  degree  of  west  longitude  to  the  head  of  Bristol 
l?ay,  and  along  the  north  shore  of  that  Bay  to  Point  ICtolin. 
Tiieir  habits  are  essentially  the  same  as  those  of  the  last-men- 
tioned tribe,  while  their  vocabulary  differs  somewhat  from  that  of 
the  latter.  They  live  princijially  by  fishing  and  hunting  the  wal- 
rus, seal,  deer,  and  fo.xes  ;  they  are  few  in  number.  They  are  the 
Aglci^unit  of  Molmberg. 

The  Xiishergdgmnts.  — These  people  inhabit  the  coast  near  the 
mouth  of  the  Nushergak  River,  and  westward  to  Cape  Newen- 
ham.  They  arc  similar,  as  far  as  known,  to  the  more  northern 
Innuit  in  most  of  their  customs.  Their  sledges  differ  from  those 
of  Norton  Sound  by  being  lower,  shorter,  heavier,  more  gayly  or- 
namented, and  often  lined  with  fur.  They  particularly  excel  in 
carving  ivory,  and  most  of  their  weapons  and  tools  are  made  of 
ivory  or  bone.  The  annexed  sketch  represents  an 
ivory  knife  used  for  .skinning  animals  and  cutting  up 
fish.  They  are  represented  as  very  active  and  ener- 
getic, fond  of  festivals  and  dances,  and  travelling  a 
great  deal  in  winter  with  dogs.  They  rely  principal- 
ly on  deer  and  fish  for  their  food.  They  are  particu- 
larly fond  of  small  white  beads  and  tobacco.  vSome 
of  their  casines,  or  dance-house.s,  are  said  to  be  among 
the  largest  structures  of  their  class  in  Russian  y\mer- 
ica.  They  call  themselves  Nushergagmut,  and  are 
the  Kijataignint  of  Ilolmberg. 

Tlie  Knskivogmnts.  —  These  inhabit  both  shores  of  Kuskoquim 
Bay,  and  some  little  distance  up  that  river.  They  differ  little 
from  the  last-mentioned,  except  in  their  vocabulary.  Baer  has 
stated  that  some  of  the  more  southern  tribes  of  Innuit  have  inter- 
married with  the  Indians,  and  that  an  intermixture  of  words  has 
taken  place  between  the  two  languages.  The  first  statement  is 
quite  unsupported  by  the  facts,  and  the  latter  is  probably  due  to 


Ivory  knife. 


111 


lAAAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


1.0 


I.I 


1.25 


UiKA    |2.: 

|50     "^       ■■■ 


^  1^ 


2.0 


LA.  111.6 


Photographic 

Sdences 

Corporation 


«3  WIST  MAIN  STRUT 

WltSTIR.N.Y.  MSSO 

(716)  «73-4503 


4^ 


;V 


e> 


4o6 


ABORIGINAL   INHAIilTANTS. 


II 


a  miscomprehension  of  his  informant,  who  probably  mistook  the 
trading  jargon,  in  use  among  all  western  Innuit  who  have  any 
trade  with  the  Indians,  for  the  true  language  of  the  former.  At 
all  events,  I  have  so  far  found  no  traces  of  Indian  words  in  the 
numerous  Innuit  vocabularies  which  I  have  examined,  nor  vice 
versa.  In  regard  to  this  tribe  he  also  makes  some  assertions 
which  are  not  borne  out  by  the  accounts  which  I  have  received 
in  regard  to  them,  from  Russian  traders  who  had  spent  years  on 
the  Kuskoquim,  especially  Ivan  Lukeen,  who  is  elsewhere  men- 
tioned. I  refer  to  the  statement  that  all  the  adult  able-bodied 
males  sleep  in  the  casine,  or  dance-house,  and  that  the  only  women 
who  are  admitted  to  the  same  place  during  festivities  are  those 
who  have  been  especially  initiated.  I  have  good  reason  to  believe 
that  the  customs  of  this  tribe  closely  resemble  those  of  the  Nor- 
ton Sound  Innuit,  which  are  elsewhere  described,  and  that  the 
information  on  which  Von  IJaer's  statements  are  founded  must 
have  been  untrustworthy.  These  natives  call  themselves  Kus- 
kwogmut,  and  are  the  Kuskutchcioak  of  Haer  and  Richardson, 
and  the  Kuskokivigmnt  of  Holmberg,  who  has  also  confounded 
them  with  parts  of  other  tribes,  especially  the  following. 

The  Agnlmuts.  —  This  tribe  extends  from  near  Cape  Avfnoff 
nearly  to  Cojje  Romanzofi".  There  are  also  a  number  of  settle- 
ments of  the  same  tribe  on  the  island  of  Niinivak.  They  are 
comparatively  little  known.  The  information  which  I  have  been 
able  to  gather  would  infiicate  that  they  are  very  shameless  and 
lilthy,  extremely  fond  of  tobacco,  and  remarkable  for  the  beauty 
of  their  workmanship  in  ivory.  Their  clothing  is  largely  com- 
posed of  fox.skins  ;  their  kyaks,  while  ^larger  than  those  of  the 
more  northern  tribes,  are  well  made  and  attractive  in  appearance. 
Foxes,  oil,  and  ivory  arc  their  principal  articles  of  trade.  A  kan- 
tdg  or  wooden  dish,  which  was  obtained  at  Niinivak  by  Captain 
Smith,  was  neatly  carved  and  inlaid  with  lozenges  of  white  stone, 
resembling  gypsum.  They  wore  labrets  of  the  same  material. 
Their  food  was  principally  fish  and  seal,  and  they  appeared  tn  be 
very  destitute  of  iron  and  other  articles  introduced  by  traders. 
Their  ivory  weapons  were  of  great  beauty,  and  some  specimens 
of  hollow  carving  would  tax  the  resources  of  the  most  skilful  civ- 
ilized workman  to  equal.  They  should  not  be  confounded  with 
the  Oglemuts  of  Bristol  liay.  Holmberg  gives  their  boundaries 
incorrectly. 


ABORIGINAL   INHAHITANTS. 


407 


The  Miigcmuts.  —  These  inhabit  the  vicinity  of  Cape  Roman- 
zoff,  and  reach  nearly  to  the  Yukon-mouth.  '1  hey  lesemble  their 
southern  neijjhbors  more  nearly  than  they  do  those  to  the  north 
of  them.  The  peculiar  labrets  worn  by  the  women  are  elsewhere 
described.  They  are  tall,  finely  formed,  and  have  very  fair  com- 
plexions. Blue  eyes  arc  not  unknown  among  them,  but  their  hair 
is  black  and  their  beards  are  very  light.  They  are  fond  of  orna- 
ments, especially  large  glass  beads.  Tobacco  is  greatly  esteemed, 
especially  the  Circassian  variety.  Deer  are  uncommon  in  their 
district,  and  they  live  prmcipally  on  fish  and  birds.  I'o.xcs  and 
mink  arc  the  most  abundant  furs  among  them.  They  celebrate 
their  dances  and  festivals  with  great  pomp  and  display.  Some 
of  their  festivals  last  for  weeks.  They  call  themselves  Magemut, 
meaning  "mink  people." 

Wood  is  Very  scarce  in  the  M:igcmut  country,  and  is  an  article 
of  trade.  Holmberg  calls  them  also  Magagiiuit,  and  fixes  their 
boundaries  wrongly. 

The  T.kogmnts.  —  These  inhabit  the  Yukon  delta  from  the 
Kipniiik  to  PasttSIik,  and  ascend  the  river  as  far  as  Mankf,  some 
(listaiico  above  the  mission.  Their  habits  and  customs  are  else- 
where described.  Those  who  inhabit  the  Kwiklipak  slough  call 
themselves  Kivikhpdgmui,  a  name  sometimes  applied  to  the 
whole  tribe.  A  noticeable  feature  in  many  of  them  is  the  ex- 
treme hairyness  of  their  persons.  Many  have  very  strong  black 
beards  and  hairy  bodies.  They  include  the  Kzcikhliidgaiiut  and 
Kxi'ikhpdgmut  of  Holmberg. 

The  Uiialigmuts  or  6Wr/.  — These  occupy  the  coast  from 
l'ast(Mik  to  Shaktolik.  They  are  elsewhere  described  at  length. 
They  include  the  Tschnngmitt  and  PastoUgmiit  of  Holmberg. 
The  latter  is  only  a  local  name,  the  former  is  of  very  cpiestionable 
authority,  and  not  in  use  among  any  of  them.  They  have  also 
been  erroneously  called  ArJdgmut. 

The  Mdhlemuts.  —  These  Innuit  occupy  the  coast  of  Norton 
Sound  and  Bay  north  of  Shaktcilik  and  the  neck  of  the  K.iviak 
Peninsula  to  Selawik  Lake.  Their  most  eastern  village  is  Atten- 
miit,  and  their  western  boundary  the  river  which  flows  northward 
into  Spavarieff  liay,  Kotzebuc  .Souu''.  Their  mode  of  life  is  fully 
described  in  the  first  part  of  this  volume.  They  are  the  Afalieg- 
mut  of  Holmberg. 


4o8 


AHORIGINAL   INHAIUTANTS. 


The  Kaviagmiits.  —  These  occupy  the  Kaviak  Peninsula  an  1 
Sledf^e  or  A/.iak  Island.  They  have  also  been  previously  tK  - 
scribed.  Many  of  them  pass  the  winter  in  the  southern  part  of 
Norton  Soui.d,  and  there  is  a  larj^c  Kaviak  village  at  Unalakli'k. 
Their  principal  C)m;iylik  or  chief  is  Katnokiii,  well  known  to 
many  Arctic  voya[;ers.     Their  principal  villages  are  Nookmut  at 


ARROWS  AND  LANCES. 


14 1 1 


A     KkciRmut  bird  spe.ir.  K.    Aleut  har|)Oon-Uncc. 

I).    SimI  sjiear  cif  norlhorn  Inmiit.  K.   Mahleimil  .irrow, 

(i.    Alvut  arrow.  11.    Kaviak  arrow.  I.    Aleut  fish  arrow. 


C.    Nusliergngmut  leal  spear. 

K.    'I'unki  arrow. 

J.    Uiialcet  bird  arrow. 


Port  Clarence,  and  Knik-(iii;;mtit  on  Golofnma  Hay.  They  call 
themselves  Kaviagmut  ;  they  are  the  Aiilii^niiits  of  Holmber^, 
and  the  local  name,  Asid^mitt,  of  the  inhabitants  of  Aziak  Island 


ABORIGINAL  INHABITANTS. 


409 


iBniul  «eal  spe.ir 


(who  travel  extensively)  has  been  applied  to  other  tribes.  Amonf; 
the  members  of  this  tribe,  as  we  go  northward,  the  tendency  to 
thcfi  and  violence  appears  more  stron|;ly,  and  maybe  due,  in  part, 
to  the  introduction  of  alcohol  by  unscrupulous  traders.  The  In- 
luiit  of  Norton  Sound  and  to  the  southward  exhibit  this  tendency 
in  a  much  smaller  degree. 

The  Okc-i'\^ninis.  —  Tiiis  name  is  universally  applied  by  the 
Innuit  to  the  small  but  active  and  energetic  tribe  who  inhabit 
the  islands  of  Hering  Strait.  They  are  essentially  the  same  as 
the  Kaviagmuts.  Thiy  carry  on  the  trade  between  the  two  con- 
tiiiciUs.  and  visit  the  island  of  St.  Michael  every  year  for  the  pur- 
pose. I  have  also  heard  the  same  name  applied  to  the  inhabitants 
of  St.  Lawrence  Island. 

T/ic  W'lStirii  F.skiiiio.  —  This  name  has  been  very  generally 
npiilicd  to  the  Innuit  who  inhabit  the  coast  from  the  mouth  of 
the  Mackenzie  westward  to  Point  Harrow,  antl  soutli  to  Kotzebuc 
Sound.  In  the  absence  of  accurate  knowledge  I  have  preferred 
to  retain  it,  rather  than  use  the  local  designations  which  are 
1,'ivcii  by  Simpson  as  tribal  names.  Parties  of  Kaviagmuts  and 
M.'ihlcmuts  visit  l\)int  Harrow  nearly  every  season,  and  may  have 
bocn  confounded  with  the  indigenous  Innuit  by  the  few  explorers 
who  have  travelled  in  that  direction.  Richarilson  says,  that  from 
the  Mackenzie  River  to  Harter  Reef  they  call  them.selves  Kaiig- 
mali-Inniiiu.  Among  the  Innuit  of  Norton  Sound  most  other 
names  are  derived  from  names  of  places  ;  the  tribal  designations 
appear  to  follow  a  similar  rule.  Tiius,  most  of  the  geographical 
names  enil  in  ik  or  ak\  as  Kavi-i-ak,  a  tr.actof  country.  I'rom 
this  we  have  Kavitii^mnt  (noun),  a  town  or  village  in  that  country  ; 
Kir,'i-(i:j(tk  (noun),  a  river  passing  through  it ;  Kavuia^^cnint  (adjec- 
!ive  singular),  the  tribal  name  of  an  individual  from  that  country  ; 
Kiivi(i:^)iiiiiii  (adjective  plural),  a  number  of  individuals  from  that 
ciumtry  ;  and  finally  Kdvidi^imit  Iiiiiiiif,  the  people  of  the  country. 
Culled ively.  The  c  which  follows  the  ^i^  in  the  adjective  is  frc- 
(lucnlly  slurred  so  as  to  be  hardly  noticeable.  Kiiuk,  F.iiyiik,  or  a 
Wold  ^)\  the  same  derivation,  means  a  "  man  '  ;  Jiiiyiiin  means 
"several  men";  Iiiiiiiit  means  "people"  collectively.  The  termi- 
nation unit  in  a  substantive  sense  means  a  village  at  the  place  or 
on  the  river  to  the  name  of  which  it  is  added.  In  an  adjective 
[Sense  it  means  the  people  of  that  village,  as  we  would  say  Indiana, 


ITT  I 


410 


AIJORIGINAL  INHABITANTS. 


Indianapolis,  Indiauapolitan.  It  is  generally  very  local  in  its 
meaning,  although  it  is  also  added  to  the  tribal  names.  Kn'cck, 
meaning  river,  compounded  with  some  adjective,  usually  forms 
the  name  of  any  river,  and  the  same  may  be  said  of  Kikhtuk,  an 
island. 

The  Point  Barrow  tribe  are  said  by  Richardson  to  be  called 
Ninviiitgmiun.  This  is  the  plural  of  Xookmut,  which  is  the  local 
designation  of  the  Kaviagmuts  of  Port  Clarence,  who  annually  visit 
Point  Harrow.  These  northern  Innuit  are  very  few  in  number. 
They  are  said  to  be  treacherous  and  addictei  to  theft.  Simp- 
son mentions  that  their  thumbs  appeared  to  be  disproportionally 
short.  The  same  may  be  true  of  the  Norton  Sound  Innuit ;  at  all 
events,  no  white  man  can  wear  one  of  their  mittens  comfortably 
until  the  thumb  is  lengthened.  The  northern  tribes  are  not  so 
proficient  in  embroidery  as  those  of  Norton  Sound,  and  their  gar- 
ments are  much  more  plainly  made  and  deficient  in  trimniini;. 
The  former  still  use  many  articles  of  stone  or  flint  which  the  lat- 
ter have  rejected  for  bone  or  iron.  Simpson,  on  the  Arctic  coast, 
saw  dishes  made  from  the  tusks  of  the  fossil  elephant,  and  the 
Innuit  of  Back's  Great  Fish  River  are  noted  for  their  stone  dishes 
or  kettles. 

The  Innuit  formerly  extended  much  farther  up  the  ^lackeiizio 
than  at  present,  and  have  been  driven  out  by  the  Indians  wilhiii 
historic  times. 

Dr.    Otis,  of  the    United    States  Army   Medical   Museum  at  I 
Washington,    who   has   handled    as   many   aboriginal   American 
crania  as  any  modern  ethnologist,  says  that  the  skulls  found  iii| 
the  northern  mounds  have  the  same  peculiarities  which  distin- 
guish all  Orarian  crania,  and  that  both  are  instantly  distinguish- 
able from  any  Indian  skulls. 

The  Norton  Sound  tribes  have  various  names  for  the  vvhitc\| 
one  of  which  means  "men  with  white  eyes,"  and  another  "itic:i 
who  wear  hats."  The  common  designation  of  the  Russians  lil 
Kossdk,  which  is  evidently  derived  from  Cossack.  The  Ameri- 
cans are  usually  called  Aincricdiii.  Some  Kanaka  words  are  in  uscj 
in  the  jargon  through  which  barter  is  carried  on  with  the  trader- 
who  employ  many  Sandwich-Islanders  as  sailors.  Some  of  theH'j 
and  also  some  Russian  words,  have  found  their  way  into  recently 
published  vocabularies,  which  arc  also  inaccurate  in  other  re.spccts.1 


ABORIGINAL  INHABITANTS. 


411 


luiiitvi  Stocks  {Stiimmc)  —  There  are  two  stocks  in  the  terri- 
tory of  Alaska.  Tlicy  arc  the  Thlinkcts  aiul  the  Tiiimh.  The 
former  are  confineil  to  the  coast,  and  the  latter  occupy  the  greater 
part  uf  the  interior. 

The  Thlinkcts.  —  '^his  stock  comprises  the  Chimsy.ins,  the 
Ky^iVii  or  Hdidahs,  the  true  Thlinkcts  or  so-calleil  Koloshcs,  and 
the  Yiikntats  or  tribe  which  inhabit  the  vicinity  of  Bering  Bay. 
There  are  perhaps  other  tribes  of  the  same  stock  to  the  south, 
which,  as  well  as  the  Chimsyans,  are  outside  of  the  limits  of  this 
work.  The  l^galcnscs  have  also  been  referred  to  this  stock  by 
some  authors. 

The  Kygiini.  —  These  Indians  have  their  head-quarters  on 
Queen  Charlotte's  Archipelaj^o,  but  there  are  a  few  villages  on 
the  extreme  southern  part  of  Prince  of  Wales  and  the  adjoining 
islaiuls.  They  are  a  very  fierce,  treacherous  race,  and  have  not 
been  imjjroved  by  the  rum  and  fire-arms  sold  to  them  by  the 
Iludson  Hay  Company  at  Fort  Simpson.  They  are  noted  for 
the  beauty  and  size  of  their  cedar  canoes  and  their  skill  in  carv- 
ing. Most  of  the  stone  pipes,  inlaid  with  fragments  of  Maliotis 
or  pearl  shells,  so  common  in  ethnological  collections,  are  their 
handiwork.  The  slate  quarry  from  which  the  stone  is  obtained 
lis  situated  on  Queen  Charlotte's  Island.  They  are  frequently 
I  called  Ilydahs  or  HdidaJts. 

The   Thlinkcts  or    T'linkcts. — These   are    divided    into    two 
[tribes,  whose  customs  are  almost  identical  and  whose  vocabu- 
laries differ  but  little.     Their  tribal  names  are  indicated  by  the 
appellation  of  the  district,  to  which  is  added  the  syllable  kzudn, 
meaning  people.     'T'linkit  means  a  man,  according  to  Wrangell, 
Ibiit  this  does  not  appear  by  the  vocabularies. 

The  Stakhin-kxvan.  —  These  are  the  inhabitants  of  the  main- 
lland  near  the  Stikine  River.  The  latter  name  has  been  modified 
Iby  I'Jiglish  mouths  from  Stnkhin,  the  native  designation.  Their 
Inianiiers  and  customs  are  identical  with  those  of  the  inhabitants 
jut"  the  archipelago,  but  they  consider  themselves  a  distinct  tribe, 
laiiil  the  two  have  had  frequent  wars.  The  Stakhin-kwan  do  not 
Ipcnctrate  far  into  the  interior,  but  extend  northwest  as  far  as 
jl.ynn  Canal,  and  south  to  the  Portland  Channel.  Here  they  are 
IbouncK'd  on  the  south  and  east  by  the  A'assc  Indians  and  the 
Y-liimsydus. 


412 


ABORIGINAL   INHABITANTS. 


The  Sltka-ktvan.  —  This  incluclcs  the  inhabitants  of  Sitka  Hav, 
near  New  Archangel,  and  the  neighboring  islands.     They  have 
coarse  black  hair.,  small  eyebrows,  and  fine  large  eyes.    Their  com- 
plexion is  dark,  teeth  white  and  good,  hands  and  feet  soft  and  small. 
They  are  indolent  by  nature,  but  fond  of  dress,  and  exert  them- 
selves to  hunt  and  trade  in  order  to  be  able  to  dress  well.     Thcv 
have  generally  adopted  a  style  of  dress  somewhat   civilized  in 
appearance,  and  it  is  now  impossible  to  find  any  of  them  dressed 
in  their  original  style,  which  is  quite  forgotten.     At  present  men 
and  women  wear  much  the  same  clothing.     It  consists  of  a  Ion;' 
shirt  or  chemise  and  a  blanket  ornamented  with  buttons,  which 
covers  the  whole  body.     Some  of  them  weave  variegated  blankets 
which  display  some  artistic  taste.     Those  at  .Sitka  have   more 
variety  in  their  apparel  than  others  who  are  farther  from  a  trad- 
ing-post.    They  always  go  barefooted    in   their  uncivilized  con- 
dition, and  the  moccasins  which  they  offer  for  sale  are  purch  -etl 
by  them  from  the  Tfnneh  tribes  of  the  interior.     They  all  paint, 
and,  while  naturally  not  ugly,  become  fearfully  so  in  consequence 
Lampblack  or  vermilion  mixed  with  oil  is  rubbed  over  the  whole 
face,  and  the  color  is  removed  by  small  brushes,  leaving  patterni 
on  tne  skin.     The  rich  paint  every  day,  while  the  poorer  natives 
renew   the   paint   only   when    worn   out.     They  perforate   their 
noses,   wearing   a   ring   adorned   with    feathers.     They  make  a 
succession  of  perforations  all  around  the  edge  of  the  ears,  which 
are  ornamented  with  scarlet  thread,  sharks'  teeth,  or  pieces  oi 
shell.     Each  hole  is  usually  the  record  of  a  deed  performed  era 
feast  given,  by  the  person  so  adorned. 

On  arriving  at  the  age  of  puberty  the  girls  are  considered  as  un- 
clean, and  are  strictly  confined  to  a  small  hut,  formerly  for  a  year 
but  at  present  near  Sitka  the  period  has  been  shortened  to  three 
months.  Only  the  girl's  mother  and  a  female  slave  can  carry 
food  to  her  while  secluded,  and  she  wears  a  broad-brimmed  hat 
to  protect  the  sky  from  pollution.  At  this  time  the  lower  lip  i- 
pierced,  and  a  silver  pin  shaped  like  a  nail  is  inserted.  The  broad 
head  prevents  the  pin  from  falling  out.  This  is  a  sign  of  freedom: 
the  poor  slave  girl  has  no  right  to  such  an  ornament.  The  gait 
of  the  women,  kept  imprisoned  at  this  critical  period  of  their  lives, 
is  weak  and  unsteady,  forming  a  striking  contrast  to  the  proud. 
erect  bearing  of  the  men.     On  releasing  a  rich  Thlinket  girl,  a 


ABORIGINAL   INHAniTANTS. 


413 


of  Sitka  Bay 
s.  They  havi' 
5.  Their  corn- 
soft  and  snia 
id  exert  them- 
ss  well.  They 
It  civilized  in 
f  them  dressed 
A  present  men 
isists  of  a  ion;' 
buttons,  which 
f;ated  blankets 
ka  have  more 
cr  from  a  trad- 
ncivilized  con- 
are  purcb  -eii 
rhey  all  paint. 
n  consequence 
over  the  whole 
LMving  patterns 
poorer  natives 
perforate  their 
They  make  a 
the  ears,  which 
1,  or  pieces  ot 
performed  era 

nsidcred  as  un- 
lerly  for  a  year  I 
rtcned  to  three 
ave   can  carry] 
d-brimmed  hat  I 
the  lower  lip  is 
cd.    The  broad 
on  of  freedom; 
ent.     The- gait  I 
d  of  their  lives. 
t  to  the  proud,  I 
rhlinket  girU 


great  feast  is  given.  She  is  richly  dressed  and  placed  on  a  divan 
of  otter-skins,  while  the  slave  who  waited  upon  her  during  her 
confinement  is  usually  freed,  and  all  her  old  clothing  is  destroyed. 

Tiie  Thlinkets  migrate  with  the  season,  according  to  the  preva- 
lence of  game  or  fish.  The  latter  is  their  principal  .source  of 
tbod;  it  is  smoked  in  their  houses,  not  dried  in  the  sun,  as  is  the 
custom  fiirther  north.  Shtd-fish  are  eaten  raw.  Vkh  and  cuttlc- 
lish  ((^t/c/O.  which  are  common,  are  always  cooked.  The  spawn 
of  the  herring  in  a  putrid  state  is  reckoned  a  great  delicacy,  and 
eaten  raw  or  dried.  Fucoid  alga:  are  also  eaten.  They  do  not 
eat  whale  blubber,  as  the  whale  is  one  of  their  totems,  but  use 
that  of  the  porpoise  and  seal.  They  make  water-proof  baskets,  in 
which  food  was  fornn  rly  cooked  with  hot  stones.  Fish  abounds 
ill  such  quantities  that  hunger  is  never  necessary. 
I'addling  among  the  schools  of  herring  the  na- 
tives beat  the  water  with  a  pole,  in  which  nails  arc 
fastened  like  the  teeth  of  a  comb,  and  it  is  rarely 
that  every  nail  does  not  catch  a  fish.  They  fish 
for  halibut  with  wooden  hooks  barbed  with  bone, 
and  a  long  line  made  from  the  giant  kelp.  Vlikon 
(a  kind  of  smelt)  is  caught  in  basket  nets  of 
wicker-work.  These  fish  ascend  the  Nasse  and 
other  rivers  about  the  20th  of  March  in  prodigious 
numbers.  The  first  fish  is  carefully  handled,  ad- 
dressed as  a  chief,  and  a  festival  given  in  his 
iionor.  After  this  is  over  the  fishing  goes  on, 
and  lasts  for  a  fortnight  or  longer. 

The  principal  animals  which  are  hunted  are  the 

hleer,  mountain    sheep,  and  mountain  goat.     Of 

the  horns  of  both  they  make  ladles  and  spoons  ; 

the  latter  are  often  curiously  carved,  as  in  the 

I  annexed    sketch   of  a   goat-horn    spoon-handle. 

riicy  use  the  wool  of  the  sheep  to  weave  their 

I  blankets. 

There   are   about   sixteen   settlements   in   the 
[archipelago,  which  form  their  dwelling-places  dur- 
ing a  great  part  of  the  year.    Their  winter  houses 
pre  massively  built  of  large  squared  logs.     They 
serve  both  for  dwellings  and  purposes  of  defence.  Tiiinkitt  spoon  immUe- 


II 


414 


ABORIGINAL   INHAIUTANTS. 


t       H 


The  walls  arc  several  feet  thick,  six  or  eight  high,  and  sometimes 
forty  feet  square.  The  roof  is  of  bark  ;  there  is  a  round  hole, 
reached  by  steps,  for  a  door,  and  a  square  one,  to  let  out  the  smoke, 
in  the  roof.  Tiu-y  rarely  have  openings  for  windows.  Some  of  the 
houses  are  floored,  and  have  an  air  of  tlurability  and  comfort. 

A  very  strong  trait  in  their  characters  is  their  respect  for  (heir 
ancestors.  The  Thlinkets  are  divided  into  four  totems:  the  raven 
( Yc/il),  the  wolf  {K/ittui'd-/i),  the  whale,  and  the  eagle  {Clutlil) 
The  first  is  the  beneficent  sjjirit ;  while,  among  the  Ti'nneh,  the 
raven  is  considered  to  be  the  most  depraved  of  all  birds.  Thf 
emblems  which  to  them  represent  the  totems  are  carved  on  every 
house,  paddle,  household  utensil,  and  frequently  on  amulets  or 
plates  of  native  copper,  which  they  preserve  with  groat  care,  and 
consider  to  be  of  the  greatest  value.  Tiiey  also  wear  dresses  on 
festive  days  which  are  made  to  resemble,  wholly  or  in  part,  tiu 
animated  form  of  the  totem.  High  posts  curiously  carved  arc 
frequently  erected  before  each  house.  Sometimes  they  are  placed 
directly  in  front,  so  that  an  entrance  is  made  through  the  block 
or  log,  which  is  often  of  enormous  size.  These  carvings  repre- 
sent the  successive  ancestral  totems,  and  are  usually  capped  with 
that  of  the  builder.  They  are  frcipiently  painted  of  various 
colors.  The  wolves  arc  the  warriors,  and  bear  the  title  of  AV 
khdiithcn. 

They  derive  their  origin  from  Yehl  and  Khanukh,  whose  chill 
dren  lived  in  huts  on  the  mountain-side,  near  the  Nasse  River,  i;i 
the  interior.      Their  descendants   dispersed,  reaching   the   coa<t 
near  Queen  Charlotte's   I.sland,  and  retaining  the  name  of  theirj 
parents.     Their  ancestral  names  are  preserved  with  the  grcatci! 
care. 

Opposite  totems  only  can  marry,  and  the  child  usually  takes  the  I 
mother's  totem.    The  child  receives,  at  or  soon  after  birth,  a  name 
derived  from  that  of  its  mother's  ancestors.     This  name  is  con- 
ferred without  any  ceremony.     Afterward   he   receives  another 
from  his  father's  side.     The  last  is  always  conferred  with  great 
solemnity  and  festivity.     Poor  Thlinkets,  who  have  no  means o![ 
giving  a  feast,  sometimes  retain  the  mother's  name  through  life 
A  rich  chief  may  give  his  name  to  his  son  at  birth,  but  he  niustl 
afterwards  celebrate  a  feast  in  honor  of  his  paternal  ancestors.   .\ 
father  of  a  son  who  has  distinguished  himself  is  called  after  hi- 


ol*  ail  in 
loiic  of 
oriianici 
nro  of 
around 


AIU)1<IG1NAL  INHAIJITANTS. 


4>5 


1(1  sometimes 
I  round  hole, 
ut  the  smoke, 
Some  of  the 
comfort, 
pert  for  their 
ms :  tlic  r.ivcn 
iglc  {C/uthl') 
c  Tiiinch,  the 
\  birds.  The 
rved  on  every 
)n  amulets  or 
;roat  care,  aiiil 
:ar  dresses  m 
)r  in  part,  tlu 
dy  carved  arc 
hey  are  placed 
u^h  the  block 
:arvings  rcpre- 
ly  cajiped  with 
ed  of  various  I 
le  title  of  /vi- 

vh,  whose  chil- 

^\'isse  River,  in  I 

in^   the   coa^ 

name  of  tluirl 

1  the  greatest 

uially  takes  the 
r  birth,  a  name 
;  name  is  con- 
ceives another 
red  with  giea'. 
re  no  means  o! 
c  through  life] 
h.  but  he  mustl 
1  ancestors.  Al 
called  after  Iw 


son.  A  distinguished  chief  at  Sitka,  having  two  paternal  names, 
was  h.iptized,  thus  adiliiig  another.  If  he  had  had  a  son,  he  would 
have  been  called  after  the  child,  but  as  he  was  without  children, 
the  other  Thlinkets  called  him  after  his  favorite  dog  ! 

I'tilygamy  is  common  among  the  rich,  but  the  first  wife  has  the 
precedence  and  authority.  One  of  the  Nasse  chiefs  was  said  to 
have  hail  forty  wives.  A  lover  sends  to  his  mistress's  relations, 
asking  for  her  as  a  wife.  If  he  receives  a  favorable  reply,  he  sends 
as  many  presents  as  he  can  get  together,  to  her  father.  On  the 
appointed  day  he  goes  to  the  house  where  she  lives,  and  sits  down 
with  his  back  to  the  door. 

Tile  father  has  invited  all  the  relations  who  now  raise  a  song,  to 
alliiie  the  coy  bride  out  of  the  corner  where  .she  has  been  sitting. 
W'licn  the  song  is  done,  furs  or  pieces  of  new  calico  are  laid  on 
the  floor,  and  she  walks  over  them  ami  sits  down  by  the  side  of 
the  groom.  All  this  time  she  must  keep  her  head  bowed  down. 
Tlien  all  the  guests  dance  and  sing,  when  tired,  diversifying  the 
eiiterlaimnent  by  eating.  The  pair  do  not  join  in  any  of  tlie 
ceremonies.  That  their  future  life  may  be  happy  th^y  fast  for 
two  (lays.  Then,  taking  a  little  food  to  sustain  life,  they  fast  for 
two  (lays  more.  Four  weeks  afterward  they  come  together  and 
are  then  recognized  as  man  and  wife.  A  similar  course  of  fasting 
and  reflection  might  be  advantageous  in  some  civilized  communi- 
ties in  this  era  of  hasty  and  ill-assorted  marriages. 

The  bridegroom  is  free  to  live  with  his  father-in-law  or  return 
to  his  own  home.  If  he  chooses  the  latter  the  bride  receives  a 
tivusscait  ecpial  in  value  to  the  gifts  received  by  her  parents  from 
1  the  lui.sband.  If  the  husband  become  dissatisfied  with  his  wife, 
he  can  send  her  back  with  her  dowry,  but  loses  his  owi.  gifts.  If 
a  wife  is  unfaithful  he  may  send  her  back  with  nothing,  and  de- 
mand his  own  again.  They  may  separate  by  mutual  consent  with- 
out returning  any  property.  When  the  marriage  festival  is  over, 
the  silver  pin  is  removed  from  the  lower  lip  of  the  bride  and  re- 
placed by  a  plug,  shaped  like  a  spool,  but  not  over  three  quarters 
pt  an  inch  long,  and  this  plug  is  afterward  replaced  by  .i  larger 
pile  of  wood,  bone,  or  stone,  so  that  an  old  woman  may  have  an 
prnament  of  this  kind  two  inches  in  diameter.  These  large  ones 
are  of  an  oval  shape,  but  scooped  out,  above  and  below  and 
larouiid  the  edge,  like  a  pulley-wheel.     The  annexed  sketch  of  a 


L.- 


4i6 


AIJOKIGINAL   INHAIMTANTS. 


mask  or  rather  carvin-;  of  a  female  luail,  cut  by  a  Tlilinkcl  work- 
man,  shows  the  position  of  the  phi;;  in  the  lower 
lip.  Wlieii  very  lar;;e  a  mere  strip  of  flesh  ^^oc. 
roiiiul  the  kaliis/ikit  (little  troii;;li)  as  the  Alcii- 
tiaiis  called  it.  This  (lis;;iistin;;  practice  is  sin)ilar 
to  one  in  vofjue  amon;;  the  Hotokiuios  of  I'.razil,  I 
and  somethin;;  resembling,'  it  was  anciently  wcirii 
by   the   Aleutians   and    Kani.igmuts.     I-'mm   tli. 

Thiinktt n..«k.  „.j„,^.  ^v|,ij.|^  ti,^.  Aleuts  gavc  the  appendage  when 
they  first  visited  Sitka,  tlie  nickname  Kolosh  has  arisen,  and 
been  a|)plied  to  this  and  allied  tribes. 

Veniaminoff  says  that  a  certain  Sicilian  custom  was  ancicntiv 
in  favor  among  the  Thlinkets,  and  the  cavalier  was  usually  tin 
brother  of  the  husband.  When  a  husband  dies,  his  brother  or  hi- 
sister's  son  must  marry  the  widow.  The  omission  of  this  custom 
has  occasioned  bloody  feuds.  If  thc.c  are  no  male  relations  oi 
the  husband,  the  widow  may  choose  for  herself. 

A  seducer  rarely  escaj)es  the  dagger,  but,  if  he  .should  be  s 
fortunate,  he  must  render  a  sufTicient  payment  in  goods  to  the  in- 
jured husband. 

The  \von;en  arc  treated  with  little  kindness  dining  childbirlli 
They  arc  excluded  from  t'.ic  house  and  placed  in  a  temporary  lin' 
or  even  left  without  shelter  for  ten  days  as  unclean.  When  tli 
child  is  some  weeks  old  it  is  tied  to  a  board  and  padded  wjlh] 
moss,  which  is  removed  and  rejilaced  by  a  fresh  supply  daily 
It  is  weaned  when  about  a  year  old,  and  fed  on  seal  or  porpoise! 
blubber  at  first.  As  soon  as  it  can  walk  it  is  bathed  in  the  sca| 
daily. 

They  consider  corporeal  punishment  as  a  great  disgrace,  aiiiil 
only  chastise  the  child  who  refuses  to  take  its  daily  bath. 

Theft  is  not  considered  as  a  crime,  but  the  loser  may  demami 
restitution  if  the  thief  is  discovered. 

Murder  demands  blood  for   blood  ;  if  not   that  of  the  actiix 
murderer,  at  least  one  of  the  tribe  or  family  to  which  he  belongs. 

Family  feuds  arc  not  uncommon,  and  sometimes  result  in  diul- 
The  tluellists  are  dressed  in  armor  of  raw  moose  or  bear  hide,  (: 
thin  strips  of  wood  laced  together.     They  wear  heavy  wooclcnl 
helmets   painted  or   carved   with    their  totemic   emblem.s.     Tluf 
combat  is  carried  on  with  knives,  and  accompanied  with  songs  by 


them> 

.•>a:iic 

lives 

sin.,'  ii 

with 

killed 

After 

cuts  a  I 

tribute 

The 
of  the 

The 

kcts  h; 

tration 
are  of 
natives 


AMORKIINAL    INHAIJITANTS. 


4>7 


ilinkcl  worV- 
in  I  he  IdWtr 
of  flcsl)  i;i)c.^ 
as  the  Alcu- 
lice  is  similar  | 
Jos  of  r.razil. 
icieiilly  worn  I 
;.  I'rom  tlk 
)en(la^e  when 
i    arisen,  and 

was  ancientlv| 
;is  usually  tin 
brothel  or  hi< 
){  this  custom  I 
Ic  relations  oi 

should  be  S' 
ooils  to  the  ill- 

infC  chiUlbirtli 

luporary  hir 

.     When  th 

patUled  \vitli| 

supply  daily 

al  or  porpoise  I 

ed  in  the  sea 

disf;racc.  ami 
bath, 
may  demanil 

of  the  actua', 
eh  he  belongs, 
result  in  dutl« 
)r  bear  hide,  o' 
heavy  wooden 
:niblcms.  Tbf 
with  songs  by 


thi;  bystanders.  At  a  conclusion  of  peace,  cither  between  two 
liihes  or  two  niend)ers  of  a  family,  hostaj;es  arc  exchanged. 
Tluse  arc  oblii:{ed  to  cat  with  their  left  hands  for  a  certain 
period,  as  they  had  carrieil  weapons  in  the  riyht  hand  during; 
ihe  combat.  lOach  hostage  has  two  companions  of  equal  rank 
assij;ned  to  him  by  the  tribe  which  holds  him. 

Their  method  of  war  is  an  ambush  or  surpri.sc.  The  prisoners 
are  made  slaves,  anil  the  dead  are  scalped.  The  scalps  are  woven 
into  a  kind  of  j;artcr  by  the  victor.  Durin-;  war  they  use  red 
paint  on  their  faces,  ami  powder  the  hair  with  red  earth  anil  the 
down  of  birds. 

The  bodies  of  the  dead  are  disjointed  by  a  person  who  is  as- 
sii,'ned  to  this  special  duty,  and  the  act  is  performed  in  solitude. 
The  remains  are  then  burned  near  the  house  of  the  v.  '-.eased. 
I'oor  |)eople  take  their  dead  in  a  boat  to  some  distant  .pot  ami 
burn  them  there.  The  bodies  of  the  shamans  on'",  are  init  in 
boxes  on  four  poles  by  the  sea-shore.  The  bodie  of  slaves  nre 
thrown  into  'h<  ,ea.  Some  time  after  the  death  of  a  Thlinket  the 
niL'inl)L'rs  of  tlie  family  who  belonj;  to  other  totems  n- j  invited  to 
a  Tea  .  The  body  is  put  on  a  funeral  pile  before  the  relations, 
and  burned.  The  guests  accompany  the  ceremony  with  dismal 
cries.  They  sometimes  burn  their  hair  in  the  fire,  or  cut  it  ofH", 
and  smear  themselves  with  ashes.  Among  the  Kygani  they  cut 
tluMiiselves  with  knives  and  stones.  The  guests  who  an;  of  the 
same  totem  as  the  wife  then  enter  the  house,  while  the  near  rela- 
tives come  in,  disfigured  and  leaning  on  long  staves,  and  weep  or 
sin„'  in  the  middle  of  the  floor.  These  ceremonies  last  four  days, 
with  short  intervals  for  eating.  Several  slaves  were  formerly 
killed,  the  nund)er  varying  with  the  wealth  of  the  dead  man. 
.\ftcr  four  days  the  relations  wash  and  paint  their  faces.  Pres- 
ents are  made  to  the  guests  who  have  assisted,  and  food  is  dis- 
tributed, which  concludes  the  ceremony. 

The  next  heir  is  the  younger  brother  or  sister's  son.  The  ashes 
of  the  dead  are  placed  in  curiously  painted  boxes  near  the  house. 

The  talent  for  carving  in  wood  and  bone  possessed  by  the  Thlin- 
kcts  has  long  been  a  matter  of  remark.  The  accompanying  illus- 
tration shows  the  general  style  of  their  carving.  Their  canoes 
are  of  less  beauty  than  those  of  the  more  s  nithern  tribes,  and  the 
natives  resident  at  Sitka,  from  the  demoralizing  etVect  of  liquor 
27 


4i8 


AlU)Kli;iNAI.    INHAmTANTS. 


Stntir  .Txr  .uiil  skimlrossiT. 


ol)t;iinc<l  at  the  aljiux-iit  trading-post,  liavc  imii-h  dcjjciKTatiHl  in 
this  kiuu  ot"  work,  hut  those  more  remote  are  still  prolieient  in  it. 

Helore  tiic  intnuhietion  of  iron  hv  the 
Russians  they  wcri"  unae(|uainte(I  with 
it,  hut  used  tools  ol  stone  or  native  eop- 
|)er.  I'he  annexetl  eut  shows  an  aneieiit 
stone  axe  and  skindresser,  as  lormerly  in 
use.  At  pnsent  many 
of  tliem  have  some 
knowledm'  of  workinj.^ 
in  iron.  Thev  pur- 
ehase  lar};e  lilesol  the 
traders,  of  whieli  they 
make  peeuliai  haNo- 
net  -  shapi'd  ki\ives. 
Ihose  el  native  eop- 
per  Wire  ot  similar 
loiin,  and  hoth  are 
lii'(|iiently  ornameut- 
I'd  with  toti-mie  em- 
l)li'ms.  They  are  (oiid  of  silver  ami 
other  white  metals,  wiiieh  they  prefer 
to  brass  or  ^old.  Tlu'y  wiar  ear  iiiiL;s 
and  other  ornaments  of  their  own  maiui- 
faefure  from  silver  hail-dollar.s. 

H()ws  and  airows  .seem  to  have  disap- 
peari'd,  as  they  liave  been  well  supplied 
for  years,  by  the  traders,  with  iron  spears 
or  pikes  aiul  flint-Kiek  ^uns. 
.  Their  festivals  consist  of  ilaneitij;, 
The  daut-es  and  son;;s  are  all  end)KMnatii', 
and  the  Thlinket  prides  himsi-lf  above  all  on  his  profieii:niy  i" 
these  accomplishments.  'I'he  souf;s  are  remarkable  tor  tluir 
rhvthm.  'I'he  principal  authors  who  have  deseribe<I  the  Thliii- 
ki'ts  an*  W-niaminoH  and  \Vran,L;ell,  from  whose  works  the  greater 
part  of  these  facts  have  bei-n  e.\liactt-il.  h'estivals  are  f;iven  mi 
ereetini;-  a  new  house,  on  the  nan»in<;  of  children,  deaths,  mar- 
riages, etc. 

Among  their  more  important  festivals  are  those  calleil  "t/r,\i(- 


'riilinki-l  ('(Hill), 

sinjLijin}^,  and  feast in^^ 


AIK)KU;iNAI,    INIIAIUTANTS. 


419 


r  anil  skimlri-vMf. 


ini^  t/w  ifi'dif"  oil  whiili  occasiims  tlu-y  v\\\\  miMuinicnts  in  their 
honor.  Such  loslivals  arc  r.irc.  on  at:ii«iml  of  their  i-osthncss. 
(iiicsts  ail-  invitc-d  even  from  distant  si'ttionu'iits,  ami  not  unfiv- 
(|iiontIy  thi'  host  i;ivi-s  awav  not  only  his  oww  proin-ii)',  hut  that 
which  his  wife  hron,L;ht  him,  and  hvcs  afterwards  in  abject  pov- 
( rtv,  retaininj;  only  the  honor  and  };Iory  of  the  ccK-hralion  as  a 
reward  lor  the  respi-ct  paid  to  his  ancesiois'  nu'mory. 

l''rei|uenily  a  wlu>le  lamilv,  and  evi-n  a  whole  settlement,  take 
|iart  in  snch  lesiivals.  Invitations  are  sent,  lonL;"  beforehand,  to 
liu-  most  remote  viiia;;es.    Women  and  children  treipu-ntly  atti'iul. 

The  honse  or  lodi;i.'  where  the  leslivitii-s  are  to  taki'  placi-  is 
thoroughly  cleansed,  or  even  a  new  one  is  erected,  with  the  inner 
and  outer  walls  covered  with  end)lematic  painlin;;s,  partiiularly 
of  the  totems. 

Daiu  ini;'  ami  sim;inq;  eomnu-nce  with  the  arrival  of  j;nests,  the 
more  distin^^uished  amt)nL;'  whom  are  selected  to  take  part  in  the 
openini;'  ceremonies.  Tlu'si;  last  commence  with  the  relatives 
onlv,  on  the  fust  morniiiL;"  alU'r  the  quests  ha\e  aiiived  and  Liter 
a  solemn  meal.  This  is  succi'cdi'd  by  ihuues  and  son;;s,  in  which 
the  women  ilo  not  i).irticip.ite,  which  are  all  end)lematie  or  syin- 
holic  ;  they  arc  kept  up  without  intermission,  e.xccjjt  fi)r  eatin-;, 
as  m.my  days  as  the  host  can  allonl. 

On  the  I'veniiii;-  before  the  close  i>f  the  I'eslivities  tlu'  host,  };i'n- 
cially  a  chief,  retires  with  a  slave  to  a  small  hut  or  room,  wheri- 
he  puts  on  a  sin,i;ular  costume,  lieipienlly  an  heirloom,  handi-d 
ilown  with  tlu'  i;ifatest  veneration  Irom  manv  j^encrations,  and 
only  used  on  such  occasit)ns.  it  is  dilferent  in  diflen-nt  i.unilies, 
Init  always  represents  the  totem  o\  the  lamilv,  either  in  part  or 
complete.  It  is  also  ornamented  with  huni.m  teeth,  lib.imls.  er- 
luiue  skins,  and  t)tln'r  things  valued  by  the  owner.  The  sl.ivt' 
who  dressi-s  his  master  in  this  m, inner  is  selected  a  lorn;  time  in 
adv.iiue,  and  is  always  set  free  alloi  it  is  ovi-r. 

Dressed  in  this  manm-r,  on  leaving;  his  pi, ice  of  concealment, 
surrounded  by  -laves,  lu-  is  •;ree;v'd  bv  a  member  oi  the  lamilv 
with  a  cry  resemblim;  that  of  the  anim.il  denoted  by  tlu*  totem. 
V \M\\  the   na*iin\'  of  the  erv,  which   is  in.ide   in  a  st.iU'd  in. inner, 


ilv-pcnd  the  lives  of  several  slav( 


If  iinlavorable  tluv  are  inn 


ne 


ili.itely  executed,  and  the  hosts  bej;in  to  sinj^  tlu'ir  l.imilv  suni;s, 
rcl.iliny;  the  deeds  of  their  ancestors,  and  the  oiii'.iii  of  the  family. 


% 


420 


ABORIGINAL   INHABITANTS. 


The  host  scats  himself,  and  the  presents  are  brought  forth  and 
distributed.  They  are  given  in  proportion  to  the  rank  and  wealth 
of  the  receiver.  Slaves  are  also  given  away.  This,  if  any  other 
families  participate  in  the  festival,  is  followed  on  the  ne.xt  day  by 
a  similar  proceeding  in  another  house,  till  the  number  of  the 
hosts  is  exhausted.  The  latter  are  entitled  on  these  occasions  to 
assume  the  name  of  some  deceased  paternal  ancestor. 

Another  class  of  festival,  also  very  costly.,  and  considered  among 
their  more  prominent  ones,  deserves  mention.  It  is  given  in 
honor  of  children.  A  new  house  is  always  built  for  its  express 
celebration,  in  which  both  the  guests  and  members  of  the  tribe 
receive  presents,  while  at  other  times  only  guests  receive  them. 
After  the  dancing  and  singing  are  over,  slaves,  to  the  number  of 
the  children  for  whom  the  celebration  is  given,  receive  their 
liberty.  The  children  are  then  brought  forward,  according  to 
their  age,  and  the  holes  before  mentioned  are  made  in  their  ears 
with  an  awl.  Meanwhile  the  bystanders  utter  a  hissing  sound, 
probably  to  drown  any  outcry  on  the  part  of  the  children,  after 
which  food  and  presents  are  distributed,  and  the  festival  comes 
to  an  end. 

The  Thlinkct  slaves  are  either  captured  in  war,  bought  from 
other  tribes  who  may  themselves  have  captured  them,  or  the 
children  of  female  slaves.  The  wars  between  the  tribes,  being 
now  of  rare  occurrence,  the  supply  of  slaves  is  kept  up  by  barter 
with  the  more  southern  tribes,  and  hence  many  of  the  slaves  are 
Flatheads  from  Oregon.  The  slaves  of  the  Thlinkets,  as  former- 
ly the  case  with  other  slaves  nearer  home,  have  no  rights  that 
the  master  is  bound  to  respect.  A  slave  cannot  acquire  property, 
nor  marry,  except  by  consent  of  his  master,  which  is  rarely  given. 
Manumitted  slaves  have  the  rights  of  common  Thlinkets.  When 
in  a  state  of  slavery  they  are  seldom  killed,  except  at  festivals  as 
above  mentioned,  as  they  are  valuable  property  and  hard  to  re- 
place. If  the  selected  victim  makes  his  escape,  and  hides  himself, 
he  may,  after  the  festival  is  over,  return  to  his  master's  house 
v^ithout  fear  of  punisl.ment.  Opportunities  are  often  furnished 
for  favorite  slaves  to  escape  in  this  way.  As  a  rule,  only  old, 
sickly,  or  obstinate  slaves  are  sacrificed.  After  their  death  the 
bodies  are  committed  to  the  tender  mercies  of  the  sea,  so  that 
they  do  not  obtain  rest,  even  in  their  graves. 


ABORIGINAL   INHABITANTS. 


421 


orth  and 
lid  Nvcallh 
any  other 
xt  day  by 
er  of  the 
casions  to 

•ed  among 
,  given  in 
its  express 
'  the  tribe 
cive  them, 
number  of 
:eive   their 
xording  to 
1  their  ears 
•,\ng  sound, 
ildren,  after 
itival  comes 

ought  from 
cm,   or  the 
ribes,  being 
p  by  barter 
c  slaves  are 
;,  as  former- 
rights  that 


re 


are 


property, 


veil. 


ets.  When 
It  festivals  as 

hard  to  re- 
lides  himselt, 


Ister  s 


:n 


house 

furnished 

|.de,  only  old, 

death  the 

that 


lir 


sea,  so 


The  Thlinkets,  like  all  American  Indians,  do  not  believe  in  a 
Supreme  IJeing,  for  good  or  evil.  Their  feeble  polytheism  pre- 
sents no  features  worthy  of  the  name  of  religious  belief  Yehl,  or 
Vayhl,  is  the  maker  of  woods  and  waters.  He  put  the  sun,  moon, 
and  stars  in  their  places.  He  is  generally  well  behaved,  but  on 
occasions  brings  misfortune  upon  men,  generally  for  very  trivial 
reasons.  Wrangell's  account  of  him  is  mingled  with  superstitions 
derived  from  the  Russian  priests,  and,  consciously  or  uncon- 
sciously, applied  to  the  aboriginal  myth.  Yehl  lives  in  the  east, 
near  the  head-waters  of  the  Nasse  River,  whence  the  Thlinkets 
say  they  originally  came.  He  makes  himself  known  in  the  east- 
wind,  "  SsdiKikhct/i"  and  his  abode  is  " Xasss/iak-yc/il." 

There  was  a  time  when  men  groped  in  the  dark  in  search  of 
the  world.  At  that  time  a  Thlinket  lived  who  had  a  wife  and 
sister.  He  loved  the  former  so  much  that  he  did  not  permit  her 
to  work.  She  sat  the  whole  day  doing  nothing.  Eight  little 
red  birds,  called  Kiin  by  the  Thlinkets,  were  always  around  her. 
One  day  she  spoke  to  a  stranger.  The  little  birds  flew  and  told 
the  jealous  husband.  So  when  he  went  into  the  woods  to  build 
a  canoe  he  shut  her  up  in  a  bo.x.  He  killed  all  his  sister's  chil- 
dren because  they  looked  at  his  wife.  Weeping,  the  mother 
went  to  the  sea-shore.  A  whale  saw  her,  and  asked  the  cause  of 
her  grief,  and  when  informed  told  her  to  swallow  a  small  stone 
from  the  beach  and  drink  some  sea-water.  In  eight  months  she 
had  a  son,  whom  she  hid  from  her  brother.  This  son  was  really 
Vclil.  As  he  grew  he  became  a  great  exi)crt  in  shooting  with  a 
how  and  arrow.  It  is  said  the  mother  made  herself  a  mantle  out 
of  the  skins  of  humming-birds  which  he  had  brought  down. 

He  killed  birds  of  large  size,  and,  dressing  himself  in  their 
skins,  flew  about  to  different  places,  having  many  adventures. 

The  only  one  worth  relating  is  the  most  glorious  of  his  deeds, 
—  that  of  putting  the  light  in  its  place.  At  that  time  the  stm, 
moon,  and  stars  were  kept  by  a  rich  chief  in  sejiarate  boxes, 
which  he  allowed  no  one  to  touch.  Yehl  heard  of  it,  and  desired 
to  have  them.  This  chief  had  an  only  daughter,  whom  he  loved 
and  spoiled  to  such  a  degree,  that  he  examined  everything  she 
ate  and  drank  before  he  would  allow  her  to  partake.  Yehl  saw 
that  only  a  grandson  of  the  old  chief  could  obtain  the  light  ;  and, 
in  the  form  of  a  blade  of  grass,  he  was  swallowed,  and  made  his 


iii' 
■i 


422 


ABORIGINAL   INHABITANTS. 


next  appearance  in  that  character,  and  was  soon  beloved  even 
more  than  his  mother.  Once  Ychl  commenced  wecpinfj,  and 
nothing  would  appease  him  but  the  boxes  in  which  the  luminaries 
were  kept.  After  a  long  siege  of  crying  the  grandfather  gave 
him  one  of  the  boxes  to  pacify  him,  and  he  went  out  of  the  house 
playing  with  it.  Seeing  he  was  not  observed,  he  opened  the  box, 
and,  lo !  there  were  stars  in  the  sky.  Great  were  the  lamenta- 
tions of  the  old  man  over  the  loss  of  his  treasure,  but  he  loved 
his  grandson  too  well  to  scoUl  him,  and  actually  permitteil  him- 
self to  be  cheated  out  of  the  moon  in  the  same  way.  But  with 
the  box  containing  the  sun  he  was  more  careful,  and  only  after 
refusing  food  and  making  himself  sick  diil  Yeld  succeed  in  im- 
posing on  the  affectionate  old  man.  That  was  finally  given  to 
him,  with  the  strict  injunction  not  to  open  it.  Hut,  turning  him- 
self into  a  raven,  he  flew  away  with  it,  and,  on  opening  the  box, 
light  shone  on  the  earth  as  it  does  now.  lUit  the  people,  aston- 
ished by  the  unwonted  glare,  ran  off  into  the  mountains,  woods, 
and  even  into  the  water,  becoming  animals  or  fish. 

Yehl  was  al.so  said  to  have  brought  fire  from  an  island  in  the 
ocean.  I'resh  wat  r  was  also  wanting.  Khannkh,  the  wolf, 
watched  incessantly  over  the  only  well  in  the  world.  Khanukh 
was  older  and  more  powerful  than  Vchl,  and  is  the  malign  spirit 
of  the  Thlinkets.  Yehl  finally  succeeded  in  obtaining  the  water 
by  a  stratagem.  The  many  stories  told  of  him  probably  owe  their 
origin  quite  as  often  to  the  imagination  of  the  individual,  whose 
fancies  crystallize  around  Yehl  as  a  centre,  as  to  any  definite 
tradition.  After  arranging  everything  for  the  comfort  of  the 
Thlinkets,  Yehl  disappeared  in  his  abode,  where  neither  man  nor 
spirit  can  penetrate. 

There  are  immense  numbers  of  minor  spirits  called  lV/7/,  who 
are  invoked  by  the  shamans.  Each  shaman  has  his  own  familiar 
spirits,  who  do  his  bidding,  and  others  on  whom  he  may  call  in 
certain  emergencies.  These  spirits  are  divided  into  three  classes: 
Khiyckh  ("the  upper  ones"),  Tdkhi-yckli  ("land  spirits"),  and 
Tckhi-yckh  ("  sea  spirits  ").  The  first  are  the  spirits  of  the  brave 
killed  in  war,  dwelling  in  the  north.  Hence  a  gn  at  display  of 
northern  lights  is  looked  upon  as  an  omen  of  war.  The  second 
and  third  are  the  spirits  of  those  who  died  in  the  common  way. 
and  who  dwell  in  Taklian-kJiou.     The  ease  with  which  these  last 


ABORIGINAL   INHABITANTS. 


423 


US,  woods, 


nach  their  appointed  place  is  apparently  dependent  on  the  con- 
duct of  their  relations  in  mourning  for  them. 

Too  many  tears  mire  the  road,  but  the  sufficient  quantity  just 
lays  the  dust,  and  makes  the  road  hard  and  even. 

The  Tdkhi-yckh  appear  to  the  shamans  in  the  form  of  land 
animals,  but  Tckhi-yckh  in  the  form  of  marine  animals.  With 
regard  to  the  latter  there  is  some  doubt,  some  of  the  Ihlinkets 
savin,:jj  that  they  are  the  spirits  of  marine  animals  themselves, 
and  not  human  spirits.  Beside  this,  every  one  has  his  Yckh, 
who  is  always  with  him,  except  in  cases  when  the  man  becomes 
exceedingly  bad,  when  the  Yekh  leaves  him.  These  spirits  are 
said,  with  questionable  truth  I  presume,  to  be  fond  of  cleanliness, 
and  only  permit  themselves  to  be  conjured  by  the  sound  of  a 
drum  or  rattle.  The  last  is  usually  made  in  the  shape  of  a  bird, 
—  hollow,  and  filled  with  small  stones.  These  are  used  at  all  fes- 
tivities, and  whenever  the  spirits  are  wanted. 

The  Thlinkets  believe  in  immortality  and  transmigration,  but 
not  in  the  transmigration  of  human  souls  into  animals,  only  from 
one  human  body  to  another. 

It  is  not  uncommon  to  hear  a  poor  Thlinket  say,  when  speak- 
ing of  a  wealthv  or  prosperous  family,  '  If  I  should  die,  I  should 
like  to  be  born  into  that  house,"  or  even,  ".\kh,  were  I  dead,  I 
might  perhaps  return  to  the  world  in  a  happier  condition  !" 

Those  whose  bodies  are  burned,  are  supposed  to  be  warm  in 
tlio  other  world,  others  to  suffer  from  cold.  Those  in  whose 
honor  slaves  were  sacrificed,  need  not  work  there. 

Tiieir  traditions  tell  of  a  general  deluge,  in  which  a  few  were 
saved  on  a  raft.  The  waters  receding,  the  raft  broke  in  two  ;  on 
one  side  were  the  ancestors  of  the  Thlinkets,  on  the  other  tho.se 
of  all  other  nations  of  the  world.  Hence  the  ditilerences  of  lan- 
guai/e  and  customs.  In  tlie  beginning  of  this  flood  a  brother  and 
sistn-  were  separated.  The  brother's  name  was  Clwthl  ;  the  sister's 
was  A/i-i^is/i-iiii-(ik/io!i  ("  woman  under  the  world  ").  As  they  were 
torn  asunder.  Chethl'  said  to  his  sister,  "\o\\  will  see  me  no 
mniv,  but  as  long  as  I  live  you  shall  hear  my  voice."  Then  he 
put  on  the  skin  of  an  immense  bird,  and  disappeared  in  the 
southwest.  The  sister  ascended  Mount  Kdgecumbe,  near  Sitka, 
which  opened  and  swallowed  her  up,  of  which  the  crater  remains 
in  evidence. 


I 


B>!     '■ 


424 


ABORIGINAL   INHABITANTS. 


Descending  beneath  the  earth,  she  devoted  herself  to  sustain- 
ing the  world  (which  is  buckler-shaped,  according  to  the  Thlinkets) 
upon  a  pillar,  above  the  waters  which  had  so  lately  surged  over  it. 
Spirits  hating  mankind  endeavor  to  drive  her  away,  to  overturn 
the  pillar,  to  destroy  the  earth  and  its  inhabitants.  The  pil- 
lar sometimes  is  made  to  tremble,  producing  earthquakes,  during 
these  battles  ;  but  Ah-gish-dn-akJion  is  strong  and  faithful,  and 
the  earth  is  safe.  Chethl',  in  the  form  of  the  bird  Kiinita-knt-cth, 
frequents  the  crater  of  Edgecumbe,  feeding  on  whales,  which  he 
carries  there  in  his  claws.  Rising  from  his  eyrie  with  the  com- 
ing storm,  true  to  his  promise,  thunder  is  the  rustling  of  his  wings, 
while  lightning  flashes  from  his  eyes. 

Our  information  goes  no  further.  Wrangell  says  nothing  of 
the  totems  of  the  whale  and  the  eagle,  of  which  last  Chethl'  is 
probably  the  originator,  and  only  inci''entally  mentions  the  wolf, 
Khaniikh.  He  says  the  Thlinket  code  of  morals  is,  "  As  Yehl 
lived  and  acted,  so  should  we  live  and  do  "  ;  but  this  is  vague, 
unsatisfactory,  and  probably  erroneous.  It  is  well  worthy  of 
notice  that  among  these  myths  there  is  nothing  pointing  toward  a 
Supreme  Being,  any  system  of  reward  and  punishment,  or  any  law 
of  moral  responsibility  ;  nor,  contrary  to  the  popular  notion,  have 
I  found  among  any  of  the  savage  tribes  any  such  beliefs  whatever, 
except  where  clearly  traceable  to  the  teachings  of  the  whites. 

Sorcery,  "  medicine,"  or  shamanism  appears  to  be  inherent  in 
the  minds  of  all  uncivilized  nations,  and  an  inevitable  concomi- 
tant of  a  low  stage  of  mental  development.  Its  essential  char- 
acters arc  the  same  in  the  Indian,  the  Eskimo,  the  native  African, 
the  Koriaks  and  Tungiises  on  the  frozen  steppes  of  Siberia,  and 
the  Fijians  on  the  green  islands  of  the  tropical  ocean.  In  its  de- 
tails it  differs,  taking  its  shades  of  development  generally  from  the 
psychological  peculiarities  of  each  nation,  consequent  on  its  sur- 
roundings and  mode  of  life. 

Some  authors,  losing  sight  of  essential  points  of  agreement  in 
the  differences  of  detail,  would  restrict  it  to  the  northern  nations 
only  ;  or  perhaps  would  apply  only  to  the  closely  allied  forms  of 
superstition  current  among  those  nations,  the  term  "  shamanism," 
which  is  derived  from  a  Yakut  word  meaning  "  holy,"  but  has 
been  adopted  into  the  English  language  by  lexicographers  *  from 

♦  See  Webster'-  Unal>ridged,  &c ,  where  it  is  incorrectly  accented. 


ABORIGINAL   INHABITANTS. 


425 


to  sustain- 
Thlinkcts) 
cd  over  it. 
0  overturn 
The  pil- 
ces,  during 
ithful,  and 
'.na-kdt-ctli, 
,  which  ho 
h  the  com- 
f  his  wings, 

nothing  of 
;  Chcthl"  is 
IS  the  wolf, 
"As  Yehl 
,s  is  vague, 
worthy  of 
ig  toward  a 
:,  or  any  law 
lotion,  have 
fs  whatever, 

hites. 

nherent  in 
concomi- 
ential  char- 
ive  African, 
Siberia,  and 
In  its  dc- 

ly  from  the 

on  its  sur- 


reement  in 
ern  nations 
ed  forms  of 
hamanism," 
but  has 
Dhers  *  from 


y 


cnted. 


the  Russian,  as  we  have  no  word  in  our  language  to  express  it. 
It  is  always  closely  interwoven  with  the  aboriginal  polytheistic 
myths,  and  is  iii  fact  a  natural  offshoot  from  them. 

The  words  and  actions  of  the  shaman,  or  sorcerer,  are  con- 
sidered infallible  by  the  Thlinkets,  and  believed  implicitly  by 
them. 

A  shnnian  must  have  the  faculty,  not  only  of  calling  "  spirits 
from  the  vasty  deep,"  but  also  the  power  to  make  them  come 
when  he  calls  for  them,  or  at  all  events  to  appear  to  come.  The 
office  is  often  hereditary,  a  grandson  or  son  inheriting  the  para- 
phernalia, drums,  rattles,  masks,  etc.  of  the  shaman  ;  but  if  he 
(Iocs  not  possess  certain  mental  or  psychological  peculiarities 
beside,  all  this  availeth  nothing. 

The  aspirant  for  shamanism  goes  for  some  time  into  the  forest, 
or  upon  a  mountain,  in  solitude,  —  situations  calculated  to  call  forth 
a  sort  of  mental  fervor,  and  to  e.xcite  the  imagination  to  the  high- 
est pitch.  Here  he  remains,  subsisting  exclusively  on  the  root  of  a 
wild  [jlant  {Panax  horridiim),  and  avoiding  the  company  and  hab- 
itations of  men.  The  length  of  time  depends  on  his  susceptibility 
to  mental  excitement.  In  their  own  relations  of  the  event,  they 
say  that  one  of  the  foremost  of  the  spirits  sends  a  river-otter  to 
them,  in  the  tongue  of  which  lies  the  whole  secret,  power,  and 
force  required  in  the  profession  of  shamanism.  When  the  otter 
meets  the  shamln,  both  stop  The  man  kills  the  animal,  crying 
aloud  four  times  as  he  does  sm.  The  otter  falls  on  its  back,  stretch- 
ing out  its  tongue,  which  the  shaman  cuts  out  and  preserves  in  a 
small  cover,  made  for  it  with  the  greatest  care,  hiding  it  with  the 
utmost  precaution,  as  an  uninitiated  person  finding  it  would  im- 
mediately lose  his  senses.  The  skin  of  the  otter  is  taken  off, 
and  preserved  by  the  shaman,  as  a  sign  of  his  profession.  The 
tlcsh  is  carefully  buried,  and,  previous  to  the  Russian  occupation 
of  Sitka,  no  Thlinket  dared  to  kill  an  otter.  At  present,  from 
luve  of  gain,  and  experience  having  shown  no  evil  results,  that 
superstition  has  become  nearly  extinct. 

If  solitude  and  a  low  diet  do  not  bring  the  desired  boon,  the 
aspirant  repairs  to  the  grave  of  some  shaman  of  repute,  remains 
overnight  near  the  body,  taking  a  tooth  or  a  finger  from  the 
corpse  in  his  mouth,  the  more  readily  fo  compel  the  attendance 
of  the  expected  spirits,  and  the  required  otter.     Haggard  and  half 


<•      i 


I.I 


426 


ABORIGINAL   INHABITANTS. 


V  1 

'  j 


insane,    the   neophyte    returns   to   his   kindred,  wliere    his   new- 
powers  are  immediately  put  to  the  test. 

The  honor  and  respeet  with  whieh  a  shaman  is  regarded  de- 
pend on  the  number  of  spirits  under  his  control,  who,  properly 
employed,  contribute  largely  to  his  wealth.  For  every  one  of 
them  he  has  a  name  and  certain  songs.  Sometimes  the  spirits 
of  his  ancestors  come  to  his  assistance,  and  increase  his  power,  so 
that  it  is  believed  he  can  throw  his  spirits  into  other  people  who 
do  not  believe  in  his  art.  Those  unfortunate  wretches  to  whom 
this  happens,  suffer  from  horrible  fits  and  paroxysms. 

When  the  shaman  is  sick,  his  relations  fast  to  promote  his 
recovery.  I  lis  command  is  law.  The  shamans  long  since  for- 
bade the  eating  of  whale's  flesh  and  blubber,  one  of  the  greatest 
delicacies  among  the  neighboring  tribes  ;  and  to  this  day  it  is 
regarded  with  abhorrence  by  the  Thlinkets. 

The  shaman  has  a  large  amount  of  paraphernalia.  This  in- 
cludes wooden  masks,  one  for  each  spirit,  carved  and  carefully 
painted.  These  are  distinct  from  the  masks  used  by  all  the  Thlin- 
kets in  their  dances  and  festivals. 

The  hair  of  the  shaman  must  never  be  cut.  After  his  death, 
as  was  mentioned  previously,  his  body  is  not  burned,  but  depos- 
ited in  a  wooden  bo.v  on  four  high  posts.  For  the  first  night  he 
remains  lying  in  the  corner  where  he  died  ;  but  on  the  following 
day  he  is  removed  to  the  opposite  corner,  and  this  is  continued 
until  the  body  has  visited  each  of  the  four  corners  of  the  house. 
All  the  inmates  of  the  house  fast  meanwhile.  On  the  fifth  day 
the  body,  dressed  in  the  garb  of  his  profession,  is  bound  to  a  board. 
Two  ivory  or  bone  wands,  which  the  shaman  used  in  his  perform- 
ances, are  placed,  the  one  in  the  cartilage  of  the  nose,  and  the  other 
in  the  hair,  which  is  tied  together.  The  head  is  covered  with  a 
piece  of  basket-work,  and  the  body  is  carried  to  its  final  resting- 
place,  always  on  the  shore.  Every  time  a  Thlinket  paddles  bv 
the  remains  he  throws  a  small  offering,  as  a  little  tobacco,  in  the 
water,  that  he  may  by  this  means  find  favor  in  the  eyes  of  the 
dead  man. 

One  example  of  the  manner  in  which  shamanism  is  practised 
will  suffice.  On  the  day  appointed  for  the  exhibition  cf  hi< 
power,  his  relations,  who  act  the  part  of  a  chorus  of  singers,  are 
obliged  to  fast.     Nay,  more  than  that ;  they  are  obliged  to  use  a 


ABORIGINAL  INHABITANTS. 


427 


feather  as  an  emetic,  and  free  themselves  entirely  from  such  gross 
iiKiti-rial  substances  as  food. 

Tiic  performance  commences  at  sunset  and  lasts  till  sunrise. 
All  who  wish  to  participate  assemble  in  the  lodj^e  or  hut  of  the 
shaman,  where  they  join  in  a  song,  to  which  time  is  beaten  on  a 
ilnnn.  Dressed  in  his  paraphernalia,  with  a  mask  over  his  face, 
tiic  shaman  rushes  round  and  round  the  fire,  which  is  burning  in 
the  centre  of  the  lodge  ;  he  keeps  his  eyes  directed  toward  the 
opening  in  the  roof,  and  keeps  time  to  the  drum  with  violent  mo- 
tions of  his  limbs  and  body,  These  movements  gradually  become 
more  convulsive  ;  his  eyes  roll  till  the  whites  alone  are  visible. 
Suddenly  he  stops,  looks  intently  at  the  drum,  and  utters  loud 
cries.  The  singing  ceases,  and  all  eyes  are  directed  toward  him, 
and  all  ears  strained  to  catch  the  utterances  which  are  sup- 
poscil  to  be  inspired.  These  ceremonies  comprise  the  whole  art 
of  shamanism  among  the  Thlinkets.  The  spirits  of  the  dilVerent 
classes  appear  to  the  .shamdn  in  different  forms.  By  changing 
the  masks  he  places  himself  cii  rapport  with  the  spirit  to  which 
each  mask  is  dedicated.  It  is  believed  that  this  spirit  inspires 
for  the  moment  all  the  utterances  of  the  shaman,  who  is  for  the 
moment  unconscious.  After  the  ceremonies  are  ovi-r,  first  to- 
bacco and  then  food  are  distributed  to  those  present,  and  all  is 
concluded. 

The  Si'tka-kwan  have  now  a  large  infusion  of  Russian  blood. 
Many  of  the  half-breeds  are  fine-looking,  and  some  have  married 
Russians.  Diseases  are  very  prevalent,  but  less  so  than  before 
the  establishment  of  the  Russian  hospital.  Licentiousness  is 
universal  among  them,  and  much  of  their  present  degradation  is 
due  to  the  sale  of  liquor  to  them  by  the  Russians  and  Hudson 
Bay  traders.  Smugglers,  many  of  them  Americans,  have  carried 
on  a  successful  but  dangerous  traffic  with  them  for  years.  They 
are,  without  doubt,  the  most  dangerous  of  the  tribes  in  the  terri- 
jtory  Many  of  them  are  professed  Christians  of  the  Greek  faith. 
Some  have  been  repeatedly  baptized  for  the  sake  of  the  presents 
which  accompany  that  ceremony.  It  need  hardly  be  said  that 
their  Christianity  is  totally  unworthy  of  the  name,  and  only 
served  the  purpose  of  promoting  the  so-called  missionaries  to 
hij^her  positions  in  the  church  they  disgraced.  It  is  more  than 
I  probable  that  the  only  missionary,  beside  Veniaminoff,  who  has 


i\l 


428 


AHORK'.INAL   INHABITANTS. 


1  ;i: 


really  done  much  to  elevate  the  Indian  tribes  on  the  west  coast, 
is  the  Rev.  Mr.  Duncan,  of  Meta-k;itla. 

The  Ydkittats.  —  This  tribe  includes  the  natives  who  occiipv 
the  coast  from  Mount  I'airweatiier  to  Mount  St.  I'dias.  'I'licv 
are  of  the  Thlinket  stock,  but  do  not  wear  tiie  kalitslik-a  or  lip- 
ornament,  arc  .said  not  to  adopt  the  totemic  sy.stem,  and  eat  the 
blubber  and  flesh  of  the  whale,  which  the  last-mentioned  tribe 
reject.  They  live  in  great  part  by  fishing,  and  are  few  in  num- 
ber. This  concludes  the  list  of  the  Thlinket  tribes,  in  the  terri- 
tory of  Alaska. 

The  Tiniich  Stock.  —  This  great  family  includes  a  large  num- 
ber of  North  American  tribes,  extending,  from  near  the  niout!; 
of  the  Mackenzie,  south  to  the  borders  of  Mexico.  The  Apaches 
and  Comanches  belong  to  it,  and  the  family  seem  to  intersect  the 
continent  of  North  America  in  a  north  and  south  direction,  prin- 
cipally along  the  flanks  of  the  Rocky  Mountains. 

The  tribes  of  this  stock  in  the  north  extend  westward  nearly  to 
the  delta  of  the  Yukon,  and  reach  the  coast  at  Cook's  Inlet  and 
the  mouth  of  the  Copper  River.  I-lastward  they  extend  quite  c: 
nearly  to  the  mountains  which  divide  the  watershed  of  Hudson 
Bay  from  that  of  the  Mackenzie  and  Athabasca.  They  are  the 
Thnaina  or  Keiiaizcr  o{  Holmberg.  They  have  been  called  (////• 
pa.vyans  (pointed  coats),  from  the  shape  of  their  parkies,  aiiJ 
Athabdseniis,  from  the  district  some  inhabit ;  but  their  own  na- 
tional designation  is  Thineh,  meaning  "  people  "  in  a  colleclivi; 
sense.  Though  some  tribes  evidently  of  this  stock  have  other 
designations,  I  propose,  with  Messrs.  Ross  and  Gibbs,  to  adopt  it 
as  preferable  to  either  of  the  above-mentioned  names. 

The  northern  Ti'nneh  may  be  divided  into  three  natural  groiiiK 
These  are,  first,  the  Eastern  Tiiineh,  who  form  their  tribal  name 
by  the  addition  of  "  tend"  an  evident  modification  of  the  same 
word.  Next  come  the  Knteliin  tribes,  who  principally  occupy  the 
Yukon  and  its  tributaries  above  Nuklukahyet.  They  form  their 
tribal  name  by  the  addition  of  the  word  Kntehin,  which  has  the 
same  meaning  as  Ti'nneh.  Lastly,  the  Western  Tinneh,  who 
occupy  the  region  west  of  the  Yukon  and  the  banks  of  that  river 
below  Nuklukahyet.  They  form  their  tribal  designation  by  \k 
add'Mon  of  the  word  "  tdna,"  another  modification  of  Ti'nneli, 
They  are  bounded  everywhere  on  the  coast  by  the  Innuit  tcrri 
tory.     These  three  divisions  will  be  considered  collectively. 


i  M( 


AUOKlCilNAL   IMIAIJITANTS. 


429 


west  coast, 

vho  occupy 
,lias.  They 
s/ika  or  li])- 

aiul  cat  the 
loned  tril)c^ 
few  in  mini- 

in  the  tcrri- 

large  niim- 
r  the  mouth 
rhc  ApacliL> 
intersect  tin; 
rection,  prin- 

arc!  nearly  to 
k's  Inlet  and 
;tend  quite  or 
d  of  Hudson 
They  arc  the 
\  called  (■////• 
larkies,  ami 
cir  own  11a' 
1  a  collective 
have  other 
js,  to  adopt  i; 

atural  groups 
r  tribal  name 

of  the  same 
y  occupy  the 
cy  form  their 
hich  has  the 

Tiunch,  who 

of  that  rive: 
nation  by  \\a 
w  of  TiuiH'b. 
c  Innuit  terri- 

itively. 


T/ii'  Xi/id unci's.  —  ]?e^innin<;,  for  the  sake  of  unity,  somewhat 
hcvond  our  boundaries,  the  rej^ion  which  iuehules  the  Lewis,  or 
Taluo,  and  I'elly  rivers,  with  the  valley  of  the  Chilkaht  Kiver,  is 
ficcupied  by  tribes  known  to  llie  Hudson  Hay  voyaj^eurs  as  Ne- 
haunees.  They  are  as  yet  quite  a  primitive  people  ami  some  of 
the  tribes  are  djscribed  as  deeply  sunk  in  ilirt,  ignorance,  and 
harharism.  They  can  be  warlike,  but  are  generally  considered  as 
idwardly  and  treacherous.  Those  wiio  inhabit  the  valK.-y  of  the 
I'hilkiiht  are  said  to  call  themselves  Cliitkaht-tiiui.  They  are  u 
bold  anil  enterprising  people,  great  traders,  and  of  a  high  degree 
(if  intelligence.  They  carry  Russian  goods  over  the  portage, 
iiulicated  in  the  map  (as  laid  ilown  by  one  of  them),  to  the  tribes 
living  on  the  Yukon.  They  are  said  to  have  had  a  hand  in  the 
burning  of  Fort  Selkirk. 

Those  on  the  I'elly  and  Macmillan  rivers  call  themselves  Abba- 
to-tciiii,  and  are  a  much  lower  grade  of  Indians.  Those  on  the 
I'ppcr  Yukon  are  little  known,  few  in  number,  and  .saiel  to  be 
very  low  in  the  scale  of  intelligence. 

Some  of  them  near  Liard's  River  call  themselves  Dalio-tciid,  or 
.\cluto-tciiii,  and  others  are  called  Sicdiiiis  by  the  voyageur.s. 
Those  near  Frances  Lake  are  also  known  as  Maiivais  Monde  or 
Slavi'  Indians.  About  I'ort  Selkirk  they  have  been  called  Ccns 
Is  Fonx.  They  live  on  the  moo.se  and  deer,  beside  fishing.  They 
obtain  many  furs,  and  dress  moose  and  deer  skins  for  barter  with 
the  I'jiglish.  They  wear  the  national  pointed  coat,  like  the 
Koyi'ikuns,  have  the  nose  pierced,  and  practise  embroidery  with 
|)orcupine  quill.s.  They  are  migratory  in  their  habits,  following 
[the  moose  and  deer,  building  no  permanent  dwelling.s,  and  living 
jin  skin  tents  throughout  the  year.  In  most  respects  their  cus- 
[tjius  agree  with  those  of  the  tribes  below  on  the  river. 

Ihc  Tntchonc  Kntcliin.  —  These,  also  called  Xehaunee  by  the 
Itnulers,  occupy  the   country  on   both   sides  of  the  Yukon   about 

I'oit  Selkirk.     They  are  .sometimes  Mlled  (icns  dcs  1-oux,  Caribou, 

ir  Mountain  Indians.    Their  own  name,  translated,  means  "  Crow 

Indians." 

The  All-tend.  —  South  and  west  of  the  last-named,  on  the  upper 
Ipirt  of  the  Atna  or  Copper  River,  are  a  little-known  tribe  of  the 
I'll'ove  name.     They  have  been  called  Atnaer  and  Kolsliiiux  by  the 

Russians,  and  Yclloiv  Knife,  or  Nehdunee,  by  the  English. 


i 


430 


AIIORIGINAL   IMIAUITANTS. 


The  Ci^nli'iitsi.  —  A  small  tribe,  called  by  this  name  amonR  the 
Russian  traders,  arc  said  to  hold  their  winter  festivals  on  K.lyak 
Island,  and  to  fish  dnriii;;  the  sununer  on  the  banks  of  the  Copper 
River,  near  the  mouth.  They  have  been  considered  as  an  offshoot 
of  the  Thlinkets  by  some  authors;  but,  judj^inj;  from  a  vocabulary 
in  the  possession  of  Mr.  (iibbs,  they  are  more  properly  grouped 
with  the  T/nneh. 

I /ic  Kiuai-liiid.  —  These  Indians  inhabit  the  country  near 
Cook's  Inlet,  and  both  slu>res  of  the  Inlet  as  far  south  as  Cluiga- 
chik  I5ay.  'I'hey  are  the  "trite  J'/iiiaiiin"  o{  1  lohnberg,  and  arc 
called  by  the  \'ukon  tribes  Tclianiti-Kulchin.  Their  customs  arc 
similar  to  those  of  the  other  Indian  tribes  of  the  vicinity,  as  far  as 
we  know.  Lisi.insky  says  that  they  use  birch  canoes,  and  biirv 
their  dead  in  wooden  boxes,  piling  stones  above  the  dead.  TIkv 
express  their  lamentation  by  smearing  their  faces  with  black  pain:, 
singeing  their  hair,  and  lacerating  their  bodies  with  knives.  Tiny 
are  more  intelligent  than  the  neighboring  Innnit  tribes,  and 
live  by  hunting  and  fishing.  They  kill  large  >nnbers  of  the 
mountain  goat,  and  clothe  themselves  partly  ilh  the  skiiir 
Those  near  the  coast  use  bidarkas,  which  they  purchase  from 
the  Innuit.  Iheir  language  is  extremely  guttural  when  com- 
pared with  that  of  the  Innuit 

The  Ilan-Kiitchin. — These  arc  found  on  the  Yukon,  next  be- 
low the  Crows,  and  bear  the  name  of  Cens  des  Bois  among  the 
English.  They  are  few  in  number.  They  arc  sometimes  calla! 
Kolshina  by  the  Russian  traders,  who  apply  that  term  to  all  In- 
dians they  are  not  familiar  with. 

The  TukkiUh-Kutehin.  —  These  occupy  the  country  south  ot' 
the  head-waters  of  the  Porcupine  or  Rat  River. 

The  Viiiitd-Kutchin.  —  These  inhabit  the  territory  north  of  tlK| 
head-waters  of  the  Porcupine,  somewhat  below  Lapierre's  House, 
which  is  in  the  territory  of  the  last-named.     These  are  sometime- 
called  Loi'ieheiix  or  Quarrcller.s,  and  their  name  signifies  "Ra;| 
people." 

The  Naichc'-Kiitchiii.  —  These  extend  on  the  north  bank  to  the  1 
mouth  of  the  Porcupine.     Like  all  the  Tinneh  tribes  hithcrti 
mentioned,  they  are  migratory,  and  their  customs  much  resemble 
those  of  the  following  tribes.     Their  name  means  "strong  peo- 
ple "  ;  the  English  call  them  Gens  de  Large.     The  first  syllable 


c  amoiiH  the 
s  on  K.lyak 
f  the  Copper 
s  an  olVshoot 
a  vocabulary 
;rly  grouped 

ountry  near 
th  as  Chuj^i'i- 
icrg,  anil  arc 
customs  arc 
lity,  as  far  as 
cs,  and  burv 
dead.  Tluy 
1  black  paint, 
nivcs.  Tluy 
;  tribes,  and 
libers  of  the 
li  the  skin>. 
iirchase  from 
,  when  com- 

kon,  next  be- 
is  among  the 
ctiuics  called 
rm  to  all  In- 

itry  south  of 

north  of  tlii; 
ierre's  House 
ire  sometime'^ 
ignifies  "  Rat 

h  bank  to  the 
ribes  hitherto 
luch  resemble 
;  "  strong  peo- 
irst  syllable  is 


I 

1 

\     ■ 

! 

' 

i         i 


mmm 


ABOKIGjXA.'.   INilAhlT.NNTS, 


•imt.-,  spell:-!  .\>i!s//.     They  at\:  :i!;n  cailc.l  Ij.U'-h  ax.     '1  'i   . 

ailli  tiu-  liiiiiiii  wi"  llic  iioilhcru  'uu-t.  thiiii  ;li   t''^    b.irier  i> 

inlcfiui^i.xi   l>v  I'.'jUilintJS.      Ji.'-v   'IV  Ml.!',  i  i^r  (he  h.ibichc 

\    ihcy  m.inut".i':iu!\:.     'I'licy    i..    in-ra!>!S,  1   vv  i'n   iuii>il)'i. 

'y-c  by  .L't  r-binitin;;. 

•  ,■  A'.'/A-iv  Kut.liJi.  —  This  tril>.'    ■(  1     .u  !u":\  'dvr  f.^Ki,.'  in  thr 

t;-y  iKMi-  t!>''  |\iiut;nn  ot'thi;  l'"i'-  >[>'.:■<     nv.i  i;'C  N'tiivoji.     1  Mi'ir 

>  ,'ii'-   iuIK   .locnb.' I   in  llv:  lirsT  par',     f  lni>  •.obmic.      ']  !i«  ir 

iiir.n-;  ••  KAvl,in>l  people."     'I'hcy  iui       tiv-tly  :!     luiiijd   ihr 

:i    r.iiv  (hi<~.  ai  >'joii  iii  ihc:  .--kclch  »>  .ki  .    ■    'v'>:l      l!lc   11..M 

till  r.;l,i.liis  til.:  p'iiiit'-!l  cn:it>. 

l\ii.ii:-Ki<:,-inn.  —  Thi-;,    the   b..'    .      ^    ■    hst    i^l     K.il.hiii 

oi-.cupir-; 'in    i:(.>iiir:i-y  dr-iiii'-'i  b;.  '.h-     i'.i.i.    .ih  Ivi-'i'.     1  Iw  y 

,..:.';i  ni-iou-Iv  u^'^'-ribc'l,      \v   x\    '  •■     M;',.-    «iith-'i'     Mivti- 

t 

1   ibc   w  inu  i     .!;\    (liU'l^c>^,  doiii^'  ai' ,  ■■>(   a.     i'.^'   l.M..i      •    ^ 
.itur.iib   .;(-!,•.■  1-1'). Jr. iiv.;,  ;ire  soon  iii.i.i'  •  A'tcuvi;.  in    .  1  ,  '■■.  :: 
.\\    lilV;.       I'll!:-,   't^    Mill    Ihc    case    11  i :)'.,. n.;   1110  \\     -  •  ■    ;    I    ii!;r'- 
--,  whcr.--   Ill--  woincii   do  only  ^i   '-if    -n.ir^;     .1   ''  '^i  1 

■    i  powrrb;!  \n:.;c  in  m  'St  ;!.ui;rs.      Tii.T.    \v.r..   i;';Mi.  ,   ;       .    \ 
.  ol'  iiiiii.in!;  Ijotu'vcn  the  nr.>u!:iS-or  lii^    I'-r,  ,,i,i;v  .in.!    i  .n.i- 
u   llii.    VuL^.n.   \»u.   liivy    h,..-e   l)Ccn   s>\rpl   :i,v;iy   i)\      '  lilcl 
.      TJK.-v  \V(.:i.;  'li^     /(;v.7;'''-AV,,   ■'^<v-'  o'-  !'ir;.h   1  tidiail..  C/iV/ .  .A' 
;//.i-;  u;.d  tin:    /  .'/.^■//■-A  ..'/(■/'■.■/ 
>.    l'Hnklu->-!.iK<i  --Tni-c  Inliiu'   livr    i.m   ih-:  Vuk'.ii    Iv.'l'.nv 
.  ..ahvu     '  ill.    Koyiikiik  Rr   a.     Tbcv  ivv.   •-,  i:l,'r!  \  illa.ves. 
',!d  htiii...  s,  tlKi.'..;!i  l'!'\-  ir.n'  :h    1.1  duiii;^  iho  hii.iM:;.,  .-oa- 
I  hey  li.-\\''  '■»':'-ii   i'.'ll'.'  (lcs(  r:li.('.  ■  i-r'.vh.Mo.      i  Iv  \  .r.--o  oil 
■•a\.."-,  .IS  Wi'li  .1     i-iio-;;  of  i!ic:  .'tl",   r   !;■'''>'  -  \vl  .1  .'.ivc  d.i  itu.- 
■.     Vitl^''i!k!;.o-.:i.\,.    i.f    "nrai    ..f    i.f    \'  I'c-^n.'"      Th-    rtlui 
n..ans  '  lar-hi"   tj.'oi.'-'      1  h  -■    1  ■     11  ■•     ' .'^ /,■•.'. r v'^ '^'///z  '-I 


A.')' 


■ihil-. 


-r?  Vf<. 


r 


;iaik  Kivi 


vi.unn'. 


11. • ,'  ail'  i: 


;c   .";ii-    ^ 


Til)  ■•■    .<  y  '• 
.'    }',v. "'.•■.' ■.'./'■^'t 


1'  ,     liiCl.t.i  ■ 


iivin,..   O' 


:n  .1:1. '1  n.-  r  piu 
Ib'Iii'b.a--,  -n. 


thr   KdU'h  K"(Ji;n  ^A   \\ 


A  .  a    1 


I    I  ..1  .■  V('\  1;!  ai- 
•'  pr^  pK'   I 


Vlv,.an   only   a',    r  pu^-t        1  h.-     a  i:r..     .--a  .m 
I  ilk  Kivir 
i:di\nii-l:liotd>ia.  —  '1;u'.m-i:  ■   'ny  I'a'lydc.vcrib -l '  !-i  a\1i 


■rnp','  bcitli  bank.-  o 


fiho  l..nv^-r  \ 


a,  U'-ariv 


\\\i-  .s\ 


■'::  I  ( 


,  i  h 


''»■' 


,r 


'i^' 


^fe    •■. 


n  "i 


-IK' 


ABORIGINAL  INHABITANTS. 


431 


i 


..*•". 


\''  : 


sometimes  spelled  XiitsiL  They  are  also  cilled  Loucheux.  They 
ti;ule  wilh  the  Iiiiuiit  of  the  nortiieni  eoust,  thou;4h  the  barter  is 
often  interrupted  by  hostilities.  They  are  noted  for  the  babi'che 
whieh  they  manufueture.  They  are  migratory,  few  in  number, 
and  live  by  deer-huntini;. 

Tlic  Kiilclui-KntcJiin.  — This  tribe  of  Loueheux  are  found  in  the 
country  near  the  junetion  of  thi;  I'oreupine  and  the  Yukon.  Their 
habits  are  fully  deseribed  in  the  fust  jjart  of  this  volume.  Their 
name  means  "  lowland  [)eople."  They  have  mostly  assumed  the 
Hudson  Bay  dress,  as  seen  in  the  sketch  opposite,  while  the  next 
irihe  still  retains  the  pointed  coats. 

The  Tcndit-Kutchin. — This,  thr  last  of  the  list  of  Kutchi'n 
tribes,  occupies  the  country  drained  by  the  Tananah  River.  They 
have  been  previously  described.  In  all  the  tribes  hitherto  men- 
tioned the  women  are  ilrudi;cs,  doing  almost  all  the  hard  work, 
aiul,  naturally  good-looking,  are  soon  made  extremely  ugly  by  their 
mode  of  life.  This  is  not  the  case  among  the  Western  Tinneh 
tribes,  where  the  women  do  only  a  fair  share  of  the  work,  and 
have  a  powerful  voice  in  most  alkiirs.  There  were  formerly  a  few 
haiuls  of  Indians  between  the  mouths  of  the  Porcupine  and  Tana- 
nah, on  the  Yukon,  but  they  have  been  swept  away  by  scarlet 
tcwr.  They  were  the  Tciniuth-KnUhiii  or  Birch  Indians  {(jcns  dc 
P'Oiih-aiix)  and  the  Tatsdh-Kittchin. 

The  Uiuxkho-tdna.  —  These  Indians  live  on  the  Yukon  below 
Xiiklukahyet  to  the  Koyukuk  River.  They  have  settled  villages, 
;i;h1  build  houses,  though  they  leave  them  during  the  hunting  sea- 
>o;i.  They  have  been  fully  described  elsewhere.  They  also  call 
themselves,  as  well  as  most  of  the  other  tribes  who  live  on  the 
Yukon,  Yiikoiiikho-tdna,  or  "men  of  the  ^^lkon."  The  other 
name  means  "far-off  people."  They  are  the  Jnuiiaihotaua  of 
llolinberg. 

Tlie  Koyukukho-tdiia.  —  These  arc  sedentary  Indians  living  on 
the  Koyukuk  River,  and  described  as  Koyukims  in  another  part 
it  this  volume.  They  are  the  Jniniakachotajut  of  Ilolmberg,  and 
piThaps  the  Ketli'k-Kiitehin  of  the  Hudson  Bay  voyageurs,  who 
kno\v'  them  only  by  report.  The  name  means  "  people  of  the 
Koyukuk  River." 

The  Kdiyuli-kJio-tdiia.  —  These  are  very  fully  described  elsewhere, 
3i)(l  occupy  both  banks  of  the  Lower  Yukon,  nearly  to  the  Mission, 


432 


ABORIGINAL   INHABITANTS. 


the  valley  of  the  Upper  Kuskoqiiim,  and  the  country  between  the 
two  rivers.  They  are  known  to  the  Russians  as  Iii^iiliks,  a  naiivj 
of  which  I  have  not  been  able  to  trace  the  orij^in,  but  which  i>, 
perhaps,  their  Innuit  appellation.  It  is  the  largest  tribe  in  tlic 
territory,  and  while  I  have  some  doubts  about  a  tribe  on  the  head- 
waters of  the  Kuskoquim,  called  "Kolshina"  by  the  Russian 
traders,  yet  there  do  not  appear  to  be  any  divisions  in  all  this 
extent  of  country  of  tribal  value.  They  understand  one  another 
perfectiy,  but  cannot  converse  with  the  Kutchin  tribes,  althouj;h 
the  dialects  are  very  similar,  as  is  evident  from  the  vocabularies. 
They  comprise  the  Iiiki/ikai,  Uiii/^-iii^iiiiits,  'ra/,:oJakscn,  Jn^i^cl- 
uittai,  Inkalicliljitatcti,  Tliljcgonchotdna,  &c.,  of  Ilolmbcrg.  Tiic 
names  which  he  uses  are  most  of  ihem  of  only  local  value,  and 
not  tribal  names.  The  "  Iiiiioka"  "  Thljcgonl'  and  "  Tatschcgno " 
rivers,  of  which  Zagoskin  wrote,  are,  in  name  at  least,  emanations 
from  his  own  imagination.  He  never  visited  them,  and  no  white 
man  has  ever  been  where  they  are  laid  down  on  the  map.  In  \\\\< 
respect  they  resemble  the  Colvilc,  Xunatok,  Kikoak,  and  other 
rivers,  of  which  the  mouths  alone  have  been  seen  by  the  whites, 
yet  which  are  spread  over  nine  degrees  of  latitude,  and  eight 
of  longitude  by  many  modern  geographers  ;  probably  for  the  pur- 
pose of  filling  up  the  blank  spaces  on  the  map,  and  thus  disguis- 
ing our  ignorance  of  them. 

This  completes  the  list  of  the  native  Innuit  and  Indian  tribes 
of  Alaska  and  the  territory  immediately  adjacent. 


twecn  the 
[•s,  a  nanvj 
;  which  i>, 
ibc  in  the 
I  thehcad- 
e   Russian 
in  all  this 
le  another 
s,  althoii;4h 
)cabularies. 
sc/i,   Jiii^il- 
berg.     The 
1  value,  and 
ratschcgno " 
emanations 
k1  no  white 
ap.    In  thi< 
and   other 
the  whites, 
,  and   ci^^bt 
,for  the  pur- 
hus  disguis- 

idian  tribes 


CHAPTER    IV. 

Climate  and  Agricultural  Resources. 

ALASKA  may  be  divided  agriculturally  into  three  districts ; 
each  diftering  from  the  others  in  its  climate,  vegetation,  and 
physical  characteristics.  The  first  and  most  northern  district, 
which  I  have  termed  the  Yukon  Territory,  is  bounded  on  the 
south  by  the  Alaskan  Mountains,  on  the  east  by  the  British 
boundary  line,  and  on  the  north  and  west  by  the  Arctic  Ocean 
and  Bering  Sea. 

The  second  or  middle  district,  which  may  be  called  the  Aleu- 
tian District,  includes  that  part  of  the  peninsula  of  Aliaska, 
and  all  the  islands  west  of  the  one  hundred  and  fifty-fifth  degree 
of  longitude. 

The  third  or  southernmost,  which  will  be  designated  as  the 
vSitkan  District,  includes  all  our  possessions  on  the  mainland  and 
islands  south  and  east  of  the  peninsula  of  Aliaska. 

The  Yukon  Territory.  —  The  character  of  the  country  in  the 
vicinity  of  the  Yukon  River  varies  from  low,  rolling,  and  some- 
what rocky  hills,  usually  easy  of  ascent,  to  broad  and  rather 
marshy  plains,  extending  for  miles  on  cither  side  of  the  river, 
especially  near  the  mouth.  There  are,  of  course,  no  roads,  ex- 
cept an  occasional  trail,  hardly  noticeal)le  except  by  a  voyageur. 
The  Yukon  and  its  tributaries  form  the  great  highways  of  the 
country. 

The  rocks  vary,  the  great"-  proportion  being  conglomerate, 
sienite,  quartzite,  and  sandstone.  Trachyte  and  lava  abound  in 
particular  districts  The  superincumbent  soil  also  differs,  in  some 
localities  being  sandy,  and  in  others  clayey.  In  the  latter  case  it 
is  frequently  covered  with  growth  of  sjjhagnum,  which  causes  a 
deterioration  of  the  soil  below  it.  Over  a  large  extent  of  coun- 
try it  is  a  rich  alluvial,  composed  of  very  fine  sand,  mud,  and 
vegetable  matter,  brought  down  by  the  river,  and  forming  depos- 
28 


.   I 


I'     i 


434 


CLIMATE   AND   AGRICULTURAL  RESOURCES. 


its  of  indefinite  depth  ;  and  in  some  such  localities  fresh-water 
marl  is  found  in  abundance. 

The  soil  is  usually  froz-  n  at  a  depth  of  three  or  four  feet  in 
ordinary  situations.  In  colder  ones  it  remains  icy  to  within 
eighteen  inches  of  the  surface.  This  layer  of  frozen  soil  is  six  or 
eight  feet  thick  ;  below  that  depth  the  soil  is  destitute  of  ice, 
except  in  very  unusual  situations. 

This  phenomenon  appears  to  be  directly  traceable  to  want  of 
drainage,  combined  with  a  non-conductive  covering  of  moss,  which 
prevents  the  scorching  sun  of  the  boreal  midsummer  from  thaw- 
ing and  warming  the  soil. 

In  places  where  the  soil  is  well  drained,  and  is  not  covered 
with  moss,  as  in  the  large  alluvial  deposits  near  the  Yukon- 
mouth,  I  have  noticed  that  the  frozen  layer  is  much  farther 
below  the  surface,  and  in  many  places  appears  even  to  be  en- 
tirely wanting. 

I  have  no  doubt,  that,  in  favorable  situations,  by  draining  and 
deep  ploughing,  the  ice  could,  in  the  course  of  time,  be  wholly 
removed  from  the  soil.  * 

A  singular  phenomenon  on  the  shores  of  Escholtz  Bay, 
Kotzcbue  Sound,  was  first  observed  and  described  in  the  voy- 
age of  the  Rurik  by  Kotzebue  and  Chamisso,  and  afterward 
in  the  Appendix  to  the  Voyage  of  the  Herald  by  Buckland  and 
Forbes. 

It  consists  of  bluffs  or  banks  (30  to  60  feet  high)  of  apparently 
solid  ice,  fronting  the  water,  which  washes  on  a  small  beach 
formed  by  detritus,  at  the  foot  of  the  bank.  These  continuous 
banks  of  ice,  strange  to  say,  are  covered  with  a  layer  of  soil  and 
vegetable  matter,  where,  to  use  the  words  of  the  renowned  bota- 
nist. Dr.  Scemann,  "  herbs  and  shrubs  are  flourishing  with  a  lu.v 
uriancc  only  equalled  in  more  favored  climes." 

Kotzebue's   account  is  exaggerated   and  highly  colored,  as  is 

*  Alton  (Tre.itise  on  Peat  Moss,  &c.,  see  Ed.  Ency.,  Vol.  XVI.  p.  738)  has  ascribed 
the  cold  and  rainy  climate  of  Scotland  partly  to  the  accumuKations  of  sphagnum. 
"Thirty-two  and  a  half  ounces  of  dry  moss  soil  will  retain  without  fluidity  eighteen 
ounces  of  water  ;  whilst  thirty-nine  ounces  of  the  richest  garden  mould  will  only 
retain  eighteen  and  a  half  ounces.  Moss  is  also  more  retentive  of  cold  than  any  other 
soil,  /''rost  IS  oftai found  (in  Scotland)  to  continue  in  deep  mosses  until  after  the  middU 
of  summer.  Hence  the  effect  of  mossy  accumulations  in  rendering  the  climate 
colder." 


5h-\vatcr 

■  feet  in 

3  within 

is  six  or 

e  of  ice. 

want  of 
)ss,  which 
Dm  thaw- 

t  covered 
;  Yukon- 
;h  farther 
to  be  en- 


lining  and 
be  wholly 

loltz    Bay, 

:i  the  voy- 

afterward 

:kland  and 


llored,  as  is 


CLIMATE   AND   AGRICULTURAL  RESOURCES. 


435 


everything  he  has  written  ;  but  the  facts  were  confirmed  by  Dr. 
P)uckla"ul  and  his  companions,  although  Captain  Hecchcy  had 
previously  reported  *  that  Kotzebue  had  been  deceived  by  snow, 
drifted  against  the  face  of  the  banks,  and  remaining  while  that  in 
other  localities  had  melted  away. 

Dr.  Ikickland  and  his  party  not  only  examined  the  face  of 
these  bluffs,  but  at  various  points  on  the  top  of  the  bank,  more  or 
loss  removed  from  the  shore,  and  found  in  every  instance  ice, 
nearly  pure  or  mixed  with  vegetable  matter,  at  a  short  distance 
below  the  surface.!  They  report  also  that  the  water  in  the  bay 
is  becoming  more  .shallow,  by  the  fall  of  the  detritus,  as  the  ice 
melts  away,  and  the  formation  is  rapidly  disappearing.  As  no 
explanation  has  been  offered  of  this  singular  phenomenon,  I 
venture  to  suggest  that  it  may  be  due  to  essentially  the  same 
causes  as  the  subterranean  ice  layer,  which  is  found  over  a  great 
part  of  the  Yukon  Territory. 

It  is  quite  possible  to  conceive  of  a  locality  depressed  and  so 
deprived  of  drainage  that  the  annual  moisture  derived  from  rain- 
fall and  melting  snow  would  collect  between  the  impervious  clayey 
soil  and  its  sphagnous  covering,  congeal  during  the  winter,  and 
be  prevented  from  melting,  during  the  ensuing  summer,  by  the 
non-conductive  properties  of  that  mossy  covering,  which  would 
thus  be  gradually  raised  ;  the  process,  annually  repeated  for  an 
indefinite  period,  would  form  an  ice  layer  which  would  well 
deserve  the  appellation  of  an  "  ice-cliff,"  when  the  encroachments 
of  the  sea  should  have  worn  away  its  barriers,  and  laid  it  open  to 
the  action  of  the  elements. 

The  lesson  that  the  agriculturist  or  political  economist  may 
learn  from  this  curious  formation  is,  that  a  healthy  and  luxuriant 
vegetation  may  exist  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  permanent  ice, 
bearing  its  blossoms  and  maturing  its  seeds  as  readily  as  in  situ- 
ations apparently  much  more  favored.  Hence  we  may  infer  that 
a  large  extent  of  territory  long  considered  valueless  may  yet 
lunush  to  the  trader,  fisherman,  or  settler,  if  not  an  abundant 
harvest,  at  least  an  acceptable  and  not  inconsiderable  addition  to 
his  fare  of  fish,  venison,  and  game. 

"  Xair.ntive  of  the  Voyage  of  the  Blossom  to  the  Pacific  and  Behring  Strait.  Lon- 
don, I  S3 1 

t  Sec  Narrative  of  the  Vcyage  of  the  Herald,  also  the  Appendix.  London,  1845- 
1S51.    Also  Osteology  of  the  Herald's  Voyage,  by  Prof.  E.  Forbes. 


$1 


436 


CLIMATE   AND   AGRICULTURAL   RESOURCES. 


The  climate  of  the  Yukon  Territory  in  the  interior  (as  is  the 
case  throughout  Alaska)  dilTers  from  that  of  the  sea-coast,  even 
in  localities  comparatively  adjacent.  That  of  the  coast  is  tem- 
pered by  the  vast  body  of  water  contained  in  Ikring  Sea,  and 
many  southern  currents  bringing  warmer  water  from  the  Pacific, 
making  the  winter  climate  of  the  coast  much  milder  than  that  of 
the  country,  even  thirty  miles  into  the  interior  ;  this,  too,  with- 
out any  high  range  of  mountains  acting  as  a  l)ar  to  the  progress 
of  warm  winds.  The  summers,  on  the  other  hand,  from  the  quan- 
tity of  rain  and  cloudy  weather,  are  cooler  and  less  ple;i  nt  than 
those  of  the  interior.  The  months  of  May  and  June,  however, 
and  part  of  July,  are  delightful,  —  sunny,  warm,  and  clear.  To 
quote  Scemann  again,  on  the  northern  coast  "the  growth  of  plants 
is  rapid  in  the  extreme.  The  snow  has  hardly  disappeared  before 
a  mass  of  herbage  has  sprung  up,  and  the  spots  which  a  few 
days  before  presented  nothing  but  a  white  sheet  are  teeming 
with  an  active  vegetation,  producing  leaves,  flowers,  and  fruit  in 
rapid  succession."  Even  during  the  long  Arctic  day  the  plants 
have  their  period  of  sleep,  —  short,  though  plainly  marked,  as  in 
the  tropics,  and  indicated  by  the  same  drooping  of  the  leaves  and 
other  signs,  which  we  observe  in  milder  climates.  The  follow- 
ing table  shows  the  mean  temperature  of  the  seasons  :  At  St. 
Michael's,  on  the  coast  of  Norton  Sound,  in  lat.  63°  28' ;  at  the 
Mission,  on  the  Yukon  River,  one  hundred  and  fifty  miles  from 
its  mouth,  in  lat.  61°  47'  ;  at  Nulato,  four  hundred  and  fifty  miles 
farther  up  the  river,  in  lat.  64°  40'  (appro.ximate)  ;  and  at  Fort 
Yukon,  twelve  hundred  miles  from  the  mouth  of  the  river,  and 
about  lat.  66°  34'. 


Means  Tur                  St.  Michael's. 

Mission. 

IJulato. 

1 
Fort  Yukon.    , 

Spring      .         .         .    '      -t-29°.3 
Summer       .         .         '      -4-53  .0 
Autumn   .         .         .          -t-26  .3 
Winter          .        .                -f  8  .6 

-1-19°  62 

-*-S9  -32 
-1-36  .05 

-fo  .95 

+  29O3 
-f  60  .0  ? 
-t-36  .0  ? 
— 14  .0 

-t-I4°.22 

+59  .67 
+  17  -37 
-23  .80 

1 

Year         .        .         .          +29°.3 

-4-260.48 

-f27°.S 

-l-i6°.92 

The   mean   temperature   of  Unalakli'k,  on    the    east  shore  of 
Norton  Sound,  lat.  63"  42'  was,  for  the  winter  of  1 866  -  67,  -i-o°.33 ; 


CLIMATE   AND   AGRICULTURAL   RESOURCES. 


437 


is  the 
;t,  even 
is  tem- 
loa,  and 

Tacific, 

that  of 
10,  with- 
progrcss 
ne  quan- 

nt  than 
liowcvcr, 
:ar.     To 
of  plants 
ed  before 
ch   a  few 
;  teeming 
d  fruit  in 
the  plants 
ked,  as  in 
leaves  and 
[he  follow- 
5:    At  St. 

8' ;  at  the 

miles  from 
ifty  miles 

k1  at  Tort 
river,  and 


Fori  Yukon. 


-59  .f'? 
+  17  -37 

2^,    .So 


.i6°.92 


St  shore  of 
67. -i-o'^oS' 


hut  for  that  of  1867-68  it  was  much  higher,  probably  about 
-j-9^.0.  The  mean  annual  temperature  of  the  Yukon  Territory, 
as  a  whole,  may  be  roughly  estimated  at  about  -fJ5"o-  The 
greatest  degree  of  cold  ever  known  in  the  territory  was  seventy 
below  zero,  of  Fahrenheit  ;  but  such  cold  as  this  is  very  rare,  and 
has  little  effect  on  the  vegetation,  covered  with  six  or  eight  feet 
of  snow.  Open  water  may  be  found  on  all  the  rivers  in  the 
coldest  weather,  and  many  springs  are  not  frozen  up  throughout 
the  year. 

The  real  opportunity  for  agricultural  enterprise  in  a  country 
cannot  be  deduced  from  annual  mean  temperatures  alone,  but  is 
dependent  on  the  heat  of  the  summer  months  and  the  duration 
of  the  summer.* 

At  I<'ort  Yukon  I  have  seen  the  thermometer  at  noon,  not  in 
the  direct  rays  of  the  sun,  standing  at  1 12°,  and  I  was  informed, 
by  the  commander  of  the  jKist,  that  .several  spirit  thermometers, 
graduated  up  to  i20°.o,  had  burst  under  the  scorching  sun  of  the 
Arctic  midsummer;  which  can  only  be  thoroughly  appreciated 
by  one  who  has  endured  it.  In  midsummer  on  the  Upper 
Yukon  the  only  relief  from  the  intense  heat,  under  which  the 
vegetation  attains  an  almost  tropical  luxuriance,  is  the  brief  space 
during  which  the  sun  hovers  over  the  northern  horizon,  and  the 
voyageur  in  his  canoe  blesses  the  transient  coolness  of  the  mid- 
night air. 

The  annual  rainfall  cannot  be  accurately  estimated  from  want 
of 'data.  At  Nulato  the  fall  of  snow  from  November  to  the  end 
of  April  will  average  eight  fe(^t,  but  often  reaches  twelve.  It  is 
much  less  on  the  seaboard.  Partly  on  this  account,  and  also  be- 
cause it  is  driven  seaward  by  the  wind,  there  is  usually  in  spring 
very  little  snow  on  the  coasts  near  Norton  Sound.  In  the  interior 
there  is  less  wind,  and  the  snow  lies  as  it  falls  among  the  trees. 
Toward  spring  the  ravines,  gullies,  and  brushwood  are  well  filled 
or  covered  up,  and  transportation  with  dogs  and  sleds  is  easy  and 
pleasant.  The  warm  sun  at  noon  melts  the  surface  of  the  snow, 
which  soon  freezes,  forming  a  hard  crust,  rendering  snowshocs 
almost  unnecessary. 

The  rainfall,  as  has  been  previously  remarked,  is  much  greater 
in  summer  on  the  coast  than  in  the  interior.    The  months  of  May, 

*  More  extended  data  in  regard  to  the  meteorology  may  be  found  in  Appendi.x. 


■  t.' 


''  i 


438 


CLIMATE  ANO    AGRICULTURAL    RESOURCES. 


I  I 


June,  and  part  of  July,  brinj;  sunny,  delightful  weather;  but  the  re- 
mainder of  the  season,  four  days  in  a  week  at  least,  will  he  rainy 
at  St.  Michael's.  October  brings  a  change.  The  winds,  usually 
from  the  southwest  from  July  to  the  latter  part  of  September, 
in  October  are  mostly  from  the  north,  and,  though  cold,  bring  fine 
weather.  They  are  interrupted  occasionally  by  gales,  the  most 
violent  of  the  season,  from  the  southwest  ;  piling  the  driftwood 
upon  the  shores,  where  it  lies  until  the  succeeding  fall,  unless  car- 
ried olil"  by  the  natives  for  fuel. 

The  valley  of  the  Lower  Yukon  is  somewhat  foggy  in  the 
latter  part  of  the  summer  ;  but  as  we  ascend  the  river  the  climate 
improves,  and  the  short  summer  at  I'ort  Yukon  is  dry,  hot,  and 
pleasant,  only  varied  by  an  occasional  shower. 

The  climatic  law  which  governs  t\v  distribution  of  trees  also 
seems  to  limit  the  wanderings  of  the  aborigines.  The  Eskimo 
extend  all  along  the  coast  and  up  the  principal  rivers  with  the 
tundra.  The  Indians  populate  the  interior,  but  seldom  pa«s  the 
boundary  of  the  woods.  Neither  perform  any  agricultural  labor 
whatever,  unless  we  so  designate  the  work  of  picking  wild  berries, 
which  form  their  only  vegetable  food,  excepting  the  half-digested 
food  of  the  reindeer  ;  the  roots  of  Ilcdysarum  Mackcnzii,  the 
"  liquorice  root "  of  the  trappers  ;  Polygotium  vivipixntm  ;  a  spe- 
cies of  ArcJuingdica,  or  wild  parsnip ;  and  the  leaf-stalks  of  a 
Rinncx,  or  wild  rhubarb. 

The  few  Russian  settlements  in  the  Yukon  territory,  pursuant 
with  the  charter  of  the  Russian  American  Company  enjoining 
them  to  "promote  agriculture,"  were  formerly  provided  with 
small  gardens  ;  but  little  interest  being  taken  by  the  officers  of 
the  Company  in  such  matters,  especially  during  the  last  governor- 
.ship,  none  of  them,  during  the  time  of  my  residence,  were  culti- 
vated, with  the  exception  of  those  at  St.  Michael's  and  the  Mis- 
sion. These  were  due  to  the  procuring  of  .seed,  through  private 
hands,  by  the  Uproval/sha  Sergei  Stepanoff  and  Father  Lar- 
riown,  the  missionary,  and  not  to  any  assistance  from  the  Com- 
pany. The  employes  of  the  Company  had  too  little  energy  and 
knowledge  of  agriculture  to  attempt  anything  of  the  kind. 

The  first  requisite  for  habitation,  or  even  exploration,  in  any 
country,  is  timber.  With  it  almost  all  parts  of  the  Yukon 
Territory  are  well  supjilied.     The   treeless  coasts  even   of  the 


CLIMATE   AND   AGRICULTURAL   RLSOURCKS. 


//,  the 

a  spc- 

Iks  of  a 

lursuant 
oining 
;cl   with 
ticers  of 
:overnor- 
;rc  culti- 
Ihc  Mis- 
privato 
icr   Lar- 
ue Com- 
ergy  and 


439 


Arctic  Ocean  can  hardly  be  said  to  be  an  exception,  as  they  arc 
bountifully  supplied  with  drifiwooil  from  the  immense  supplies 
brou,i;ht  down  by  the  Yukon,  Kuskoqi'iim,  and  other  rivers,  and 
distributed  by  the  waves  and  ocean  currents. 

The  larj^est  and  most  valuable  tree  found  in  this  district  is 
the  white  spruce  {Abies  a/l'o).  This  beautiful  conifer  is  found 
over  the  whole  country  a  short  distance  inland,  but  larj^est  and 
most  vigorous  in  the  vicinity  of  running  water.  It  attains  not 
unfrequently  the  height  of  fitty  to  one  hundred  feet,  with  a 
diameter  of  over  three  feet  near  the  butt ;  but  the  most  common 
size  is  thirty  or  forty  feet  and  twelve  to  eighteen  inches  at  the 
butt.  The  wood  is  white,  close,  ami  straight-grained,  easily 
worked,  light,  and  yet  very  tough  ;  much  more  so  than  the  wood 
of  the  Oregon  pine  {Abies  J)oii^i^/iisii).  For  spars  it  has  no 
superior,  but  is  usually  too  slender  for  large  masts.  It  is  quite 
durable.  Many  houses  twenty  years  old,  built  of  this  timber,  con- 
tained a  majority  of  sound  logs;  but  when  used  gieen,  without 
proper  seasoning,  it  will  not  last  over  fifteen  years.  These  trees 
decrease  in  size,  and  grow  more  sparingly  near  Fort  Yukon,  but 
are  still  large  enough  for  most  purposes.  The  northern  limit  of 
this  tree,  according  to  Seemann,  whose  observations  were  con- 
fined to  the  coast,  is  66"  44'  ;  but  it  is,  doubtless,  found  to  the 
north  of  that  latitude,  in  the  interior,  on  the  banks  of  some  of 
the  northern  tributaries  of  the  Yukon.  It  is  abundant  at  I'^ort 
Yukon  in  lat.  GG"  34'  (appro.ximate).  The  unexplored  waters  of  the 
Tananah  River  bring  down  the  largest  logs  in  the  spring  freshets. 
The  number  of  these  discharged  annually  at  the  Yukon-mouth  is 
truly  incalculable.  The  freshet  does  not  last  more  than  three 
weeks,  yet  sufficient  wood  is  brought  down  to  supply  the  shores 
of  the  Arctic  coast,  Bering  Sea.  and  the  numerous  islands. 

Logs  of  all  sizes  are  cast  up  in  winrows  by  the  October  south- 
westers. 

The  tree  of  next  importance  in  the  economy  of  the  inhabitants 
is  the  birch  {Bctiila  giaiuiithsa).  This  tree  rarely  grows  o\-er 
eighteen  inches  in  diameter  and  forty  feet  high.  On  one  occasion, 
however,  I  saw  a  water-worn  log  about  fifteen  feet  long,  quite 
decorticated,  lying  on  the  river-bank  near  Nuklukahyet  on  the 
Upper  Yukon  ;  this  log  was  twenty-four  inches  in  diameter  at 
one  end  and  twenty-eight  at  the  other.     This  is  the  only  hard- 


Hl 


440 


CLIMATE   AND   AGRICULTURAL   RESOURCES. 


!     I 


wood  tree  in  the  Yukon  territory,  and  everything  needinj;  a  hard 
and  t()iij;h  wood  is  constructed  of  birch.  The  l)lack  bircli  is  also 
found  there,  but  does  not  grow  so  large.  Unfortunately  for  the 
rising  generation,  there  arc  no  schoolmasters  to  make  use  of  its 
pliable  twigs. 

Several  species  of  poplar  {Popitlns  Inxlsamifcra  and  /'.  tirmu- 
ioiji's)  abound,  the  former  along  the  water-side,  and  the  latter 
on  drier  uplands.  The  first-mentioned  species  grows  to  a  very 
large  size,  frequently  two  or  three  feet  in  diameter  and  forty 
to  sixty  feet  high.  The  timber,  however,  is  of  little  value,  but 
the  extreme  softness  of  the  wood  is  often  taken  advantage  of 
by  the  natives  with  their  rude  iron  or  stone  axes,  to  make 
small  boards  and  other  articles  for  use  in  their  lodges.  They 
also  rub  up  with  charcoal  the  down  from  the  seed-vessels,  for 
tinder. 

Willows  and  alders  are  the  most  abundant  of  trees.  All  sizes 
of  the  former  may  be  found,  from  the  slender  variety  on  the  Lower 
Yukon,  which  grows  seventy  or  eighty  feet  high,  while  only  si.\ 
inches  in  diameter  at  the  butt,  and  with  a  mere  wisp  of  straggling 
branches  at  the  extreme  tip,  to  the  dwarf  willows  of  the  Arctic 
coast,  crawling  under  the  moss  with  a  stem  no  bigger  than  a  lead- 
pencil,  and  throwing  up  shoots  only  a  few  inches  high.  "About 
Norton  Sound,  willows  {Salix  spcciosa)  are  abundant.  The  alder 
{Aliiiisviridis)  «.  "'  •  '^s  far  as  Kotzebue,  where,  in  company  with 
willows,  it  forms  a  low  oii,„!  v.od.  With  the  Arctic  Circle  the  al- 
der disappears.  Willows  {S.  spcciosa,  Ricliardsonii,  and  villosa) 
extend  their  range  farther,  but  are  only  al)lc  for  a  short  distance 
to  keep  their  ground  ;  at  Cape  Lisburne  (lat.  68"  52')  they  are, 
in  the  most  favorable  localities,  njver  higher  than  two  feet,  while 
their  crooked  growth  and  niimerous  abortive  leaf-buds  indicate 
their  struggle  for  cxistcrict  ."  (Scemann.)  The  above  remarks 
must  be  understood  as  applying  especially  to  the  coast.  A  wil- 
low measured  by  the  botanists  of  the  Herald  was  found  to  be  but 
twent}  feet  high  and  five  inches  in  diameter  ;  yet  the  annual  rings 
showed  that  the  tree  had  reached  the  age  of  eighty  years.  The 
Arctic  coast  is  reported  by  Dr.  Seemann  to  be  a  vast  moorland, 
whose  level  is  only  interrupted  by  a  few  promontories  and  isolated 
mountains.  Willows  are  almost  invariably  rotten  at  the  heart, 
and  are  only  good  for  fuel. 


;  a  hard 

1  is  also 

for  the 

36  of  its 

•.  tmnu- 
ic  latter 
0  a  very 
ikI  forty 
iluc,  but 
ita^e  of 
to  make 
;.  They 
ssels,  for 


CLIMATE   AND   AGRICULTURAL   RESOURCES.         44 1 

The  inner  bark  is  much  used  for  making  twine  for  nets  and 
seines  by  the  Indian  women,  and  the  ICskimo  of  IkriiiL;  Strait 
use  willow  and  alder  bark  to  tan  or  color  their  ilresscd  deer- 
skins. It  produces  a  beautiful  red  brown,  sonic  what  like  Russia 
Iciither. 

The  other  species  .ising  to  the  rank  of  trees  in  this  district  are 
the  larch  {Larix  liavitriia  .^),  which  is  found  of  small  size  on  roll- 
ing; prairies,  another  birch  {Intiila  nana),  and  several  alders  (./. 
vindis,  iinaiia,  and  rubra).  A  species  of  pine  indij^enous  in  Kam- 
ch:ilka  {Pinits  ccmbra)  has  been  erroneously  referred  to  as  from 
Kotzebue  Sound.  Piiins  contorta  is  found  near  I'ort  Selkirk  at 
the  junction  of  the  Lewis  or  Tahco  River  with  the  I'elly  River.  It 
(Iocs  not  ascenil  the  Yukon  any  farther  northward.  The  Hud- 
son Hay  men  at  Fort  Yukon  call  the  white  spruce  "  pine. ' 

The  treeless  coasts  of  the  territory,  as  well  as  the  lowlands  of 
the  \'ukon,  are  cove,  .d  in  spring  with  a  most  luxuriant  growth 
of  grass  and  flowers.  Among  the  more  valuable  of  these  grasses 
(of  which  a  nearly  complete  list  may  be  found  in  the  Appen- 
dix) is  the  well-known  Kentucky  blue-grass  {Poa  pratcnsis), 
which  grows  luxuriantly  as  far  north  as  Kotzebue  Sound,  and  per- 
haps even  to  Point  Barrow.  The  wood  meadow-grass  {Poa  nnno- 
ralis)  is  also  abundant,  and  furnishes  to  cattle  an  agreeable 
and  fattening  pasturage.  The  blue  joint-grass  {Calainoi^rosiis 
Canath'iisis)  also  re;,  es  the  latitude  of  Kotzebue  Sound,  and 
},Mows  on  the  coast  ot  Norton  Sound  with  a  truly  surprising  luxu- 
riance. It  reaches  in  very  favorable  situations  four  or  even  five 
feet  in  height,  and  averages  at  least  three  feet.*  Many  other 
grasses  enumerated  in  the  list  of  useful  j^lants  grow  abundantly, 
and  contribute  largely  to  the  whole  amount  of  herbage.  Two 
species  of  FJymns  almost  deceive  the  traveller  with  the  aspect  of 
^Main  fields,  maturing  a  perceptible  kernel,  which  the  field-mice 
lay  up  in  store. 

Grain  has  never  been  sown  to  any  extent  in  the  Yukon  Terri- 
tory. Barley,  I  was  informed,  had  once  or  twice  been  tried  at 
I'ort  Yukon  in  small  patches,  and  had  succeeded  in  maturing 
the  grain,  though  the  straw  was  very  short.     The  experiment  was 

*  I'or  the  determination  of  these  and  other  species  of  plants,  I  am  indebted  to  the 
report  of  Dr.  J.  T.  Rothrock,  Professor  of  Uotany  in  the  Agricultural  (Joilc^e  of 
Pennsylvania,  and  late  botanist  of  our  Scientific  Corps. 


1 

1 

ii^ 

■\- 

1 

H 

it 


442         CLIMATE   AND   AGRICULTURAL  RESOURCES. 

never  carried  any  farther,  however,  the  traders  being  obliged  to 
devote  all  their  energies  to  the  eolleelion  of  furs.  No  grain  had 
ever  been  sown  by  the  Russians  at  any  of  the  posts. 

Turnips  and  radishes  always  ilourished  extremely  well  at  St. 
Michael's,  and  die  sp.me  is  said  of  Nul.ito  and  Fort  Yukon.  I'o- 
tatoes  succeeded  at  the  latter  place,  though  the  tubers  were  small. 
They  were  regularly  planted  for  several  years,  until  the  .seed  was 
lost  by  freezing  during  the  winter.  At  St.  Michael's  they  did  not 
do  well. 

Salad  was  successful,  but  cabbages  would  not  head.  The  white 
round  turnips  grown  at  St.  Michael's  from  lunopean  seed  were 
the  best  I  ever  saw  anywhere,  and  very  large,  some  weighing  five 
or  si.x  pounds.  They  were  crisp  and  sweet,  though  occasionally  a 
very  large  one  would  be  hollow-hearted.  The  Russians  preserved 
the  tops  also  in  vinegar  for  winter  use. 

There  appears  to  be  no  reason  why  cattle,  with  proper  winter 
protection,  might  not  be  successfully  kept  in  most  parts  of  tlic 
Yukon  Territory.     Fodder,  as  previously  shown,  is  abiuulant. 

A  bull  and  cow  were  once  sent  to  Fort  Yukon  by  the  Hudson 
Bay  Company.  They  did  well  for  some  time,  but  the  cow,  while 
grazing  on  the  river-bank,  was  precipitated  upon  a  rock,  by  the 
giving  way  of  the  soil,  and  killed.  Due  notice  was  given  of  the 
accident,  but  for  several  years,  in  the  annual  supply  of  goods  for 
Fort  Yukon,  the  small  quantum  of  butter  usually  sent  was  with- 
held, on  the  ground  that  there  were  "  cattle '"  at  that  post.  Final- 
ly, the  commander  killed  the  bull,  determined  if  he  could  not  have 
butter  that  he  would  at  least  have  beef! 

It  must  be  borne  in  mind  that  this  trading-post  is  north  of  the 
Arctic  Circle,  and  the  most  northern  point  in  Alaska  inhabited  by 
white  men. 

There  are,  as  might  be  supposed,  no  tree  fruits  in  the  Yukon 
Territory  suitable  for  food.  Small  fruit  abounds  in  the  greatest 
profusion.  Among  the  various  kinds  may  be  noted  red  and  blaek 
currants,  gooseberries,  cranberries,  raspberries,  thimbleberries,  sal- 
mon berries,  killikinick  berries,  blueberries,  bearberries,  twinher- 
ries,  dewberries,  service  berries,  mossberries,  and  roseberries.  The 
latter,  the  fruit  of  J\oxa  ciiiiiamoinca,  when  touched  by  the  frost, 
form  a  pleasant  addition  to  the  table,  not  being  dry  and  woolly,  as 
in  our  climate,,  but  sweet  and  juicy.     All  these  berries,  but  '  pc- 


CLIMATE   AND  AGRICULTURAL   RESOURCES.         443 

cially  the  salmon  berry  or  morosly  of  the  Russians,  arc  excellent 
anli-scorlnitics.  l''rom  many  of  them  the  most  piciiiant  and  deli- 
cious preserves  are  prepared  by  the  Russians,  and  they  form  a 
very  acceptable  addition  to  the  eternal  diet  of  fish,  bread,  and  tea, 
usi':d  in  the  country. 

T/ic  Aleutian  District. — This  comprises  the  Aleutian  Islands, 
ami  part  of  the  i)en insula  of  Aliaska.  I'^rom  the  presence  of 
trees,  the  island  of  Kadi;ik  and  those  adjacent  to  it  belong  rather 
U)  the  Silkan  District.  These  islands  contain  many  high  moun- 
tains, many  of  them  volcanic,  some  still  evincing  activity  by 
smoking  or  emitting  steam.  Between  theni  and  the  sea  arc  roll- 
ing and  moderately  inclir.jd  hills  and  meadows.  The  soil  is  much 
of  it  rich,  consisting  of  vegetable  moulil  and  dark-colored  clays, 
with  here  and  there  light  calcareous  loam  formed  of  decom- 
posed rocks,  rich  in  tertiary  fossils.  In  many  places  the  growth 
of  sphagnum,  indicating  insulficient  drainage,  prevails  over  the 
perennial  grasses  natural  to  the  soil,  but  the  remedy  is  self- 
evident.  In  some  places  the  soil  is  composed  of  decayed  .olcanic 
products  such  as  ash  and  pumice  ;  this  is  much  of  it  rich  and 
productive. 

The  climate  of  the  district  is  moist  and  warm.  The  snow  line, 
according  to  Ciiamisso,  is  3,510  feet  above  the  sea.  The  greatest 
cold  recorded  (on  the  island  of  Unalashka)  by  Father  Veniam- 
iiiofl"  was  zero  of  I'ahrenheit.  The  highest  point  reached  by  the 
mercury  during  the  same  period  was  seventy-seven.  The  follow- 
in^;- abstract  will  show  <^he  range  of  the  thermometer,  and  the  rela- 
tive frecpiency  of  good  anil  ba.l  weather  during  five  years,  includ- 
ing- 1.S34:  — 

Means  ok  tuk  Tukkmomftfr,  vor  Fivf.  Ykars. 


^.•,^r. 


7  A.  M, 


I  I'.  M. 


36  !  40 
.V)  I  4-^ 
38        I        4' 


Avi'ianc  lor    \ 
live.     .       (      -'7 


405 


1'.  ft. 


.?4 
36 


3<' 


— 

I'.x.  hfat. 

I'.X.    C( 

0 

0 

77 

0 

f>4 

7 

'/7 

7 

76 

5 

77 

I) 

K.\iiKf 


77 
57 
70 
71 


77 


1 

i 


V'     '\ 


i     I 

I; 


ji 


444         CLIMATE   AND   AGRICULTURAL   RESOURCES. 


Wkatiiuk,  Average  ov  Seven  Years. 


1  )avs. 


All  clear  . 
Half  clear 
All  cloudy 


Jan.  Kcb. 

Mar.  Apr. 

May. 

n    () 

3   4 

2 

1 1 1   86 

112   104 

105 

95  >03 

102   102 

104 

June.  July.   Aug.   Sept. 

6 ;      o  j      5        2 

95    118    lof)  I  107 

109     yy    106  ;  101 


( )cl. 

Nt)v. 

Pec. 

'Iota  I. 

2 

i 

6 
116 

53 
I2(M 

100 

119 

95 

.^35 

These  observations  were  made  at  Iliuluk,  Unalashka,  by  the 
Rev.  I'ather  Innoceiitius  Veniaini'not'f.  He  states  that  from  Octo- 
ber to  April  the  prevalent  winds  are  from  the  north  and  west,  and 
from  April  to  October  from  the  south  and  west.  The  therniom- 
eter  is  lowest  in  January  and  March,  and  highest  in  July  ami 
August. 

The  greater  number  of  clear  and  pleasant  day.s  occu:  in  '    " 
ary,  February,  and  June,  and   usually  follow  a  nortlnv ' 
The  barometer  ranges  from  27,415  to  29,437  inches,  and  on  tlu' 
whole  is  highest  in  December  and  lowest  in  July,  rising  with  a 
north  and  falling  with  a  south  wind. 

At  this  point  it  may  not  be  irrelevant  to  make  a  comparison 
between  this  portion  of  Alaska  and  a  very  similar  country,  which 
has,  however,  been  for  centuries  under  cultivation.  It  will  serve 
to  show  what  human  iiuhistry,  aided  by  careful  application  of  ex- 
perience, may  do  with  a  country  more  barren,  and  nearly  as  cdIcI 
and  rainy  as  the  Aleutian  District  of  Alaska.  I  refer  to  tiic 
Highlands  of  Scotland  and  the  adjacent  islands,  whose  Scotch 
mists  have  become  proverbial. 

Dr.  Graham,  of  Aberfoyle,*  referring  to  the  western  district  of 
Scotland,  says  that  Ayreshire  is  very  moist  and  dai.tn,  \»-:iIi  a  mild 
and  temperate  climate.  Renfrewshire  is  visited  with  frec|iiciit 
and  heavy  rains.  Dumbartonshire  has  the  same  character.  Ar- 
gyllshire is  considered  the  most  rainy  county  of  Scotlaiul. 

"  The  vapors  of  the  ocean  are  attracted  by  its  lofty  mountains, 
and  the  clouds  discharge  tluMiiselves  in  torrents  on  the  valk  vs. 
The  winters  are  for  the  most  part  mild  and  tem|)erate,  but  the 
summers  are  frequently  rainy  and  cold.  The  climate  of  the  /ct- 
land  Islands  resembles  in  most  •.espects  that  of  the  Orkneys. 
Though  the  sky  is  inclement  and  the  air  moist,  it  is  far  from  ir 
healthy.  The  rain  continues  not  only  for  hours  but  for  day.s,  nay, 
even  for  weeks,  if  the  wind  blow  from  the  west,"  &c. 

•  Sec  £(lii)l)urgh  Encyclopxdia,  art.  Scollaiul,  \\>\.  XV  i.,  j).  j^^ifsK/. 


4 
r 


1 


i  "J 


r 


:e3. 


ov. 

Dec. 

'I'dTAI 

3 

ss 

6 

116 

5.; 

1 2h  i 

19 

95 

-3.S 

hka,  by  tlio 
t  from  OctD- 
11(1  west,  and 
he  thcrmonv 
in  July  ami 


:cu.  i:> 


U  l! 


•the 

,  and  on  the 

rising  with  a 


I  companson 

mntry,  which 

It  will  serve 

eat  ion  of  cx- 

early  as  eokl 

refer  to  the 

hose  Scotch 

rn  district  ot 


.  v»''lii  a  niiUI 

ith   frec|iicnt 

iracter.     Ai'- 

ind. 
y  mountains, 
>  the  valleys. 
:rate,  but  the 
'.  of  the  /et- 
he  ()rkiuv\ 

far  from  n-    ^ 

1         r 

or  ilays,  na},  gj. 

7  j8  ,7  .-„/. 


CLIMATE  AND   AGRICULTURAL   RESOURCES. 


445 


This  description  would  answer  very  well  for  the  most  rainy 
])ortion  of  Alaska. 

The  mean  annual  temperature  of  Northern  Scotland  varies  from 
42'  to  48°.  That  of  Alaska  in  the  Aleutian  District,  from  36°  to 
.|0  .  Orkney  and  Zetlaml  differ  considerably,  both  in  mean  tem- 
perature anil  in  amount  of  rainfall,  the  Shetland  Islands  having 
a  less  genial  climate  and  a  greater  degree  of  humidity.  The  fol- 
lowing abstract  shows  the  mean  temperature  of  Inverness  on  the 
cast  coast  of  Scotland.  This  is  one  of  the  most  sheltered  and 
protected  points  in  Northern  Scotland.  Its  latitude  is  precisely 
that  of  Kadiiik. 


Year. 

Anm1.1l. 

Winter. 

39°59 
3944 

Spring. 

44''93 
47.22 

Summer. 

0 
55-34 
57-79 

I'.ill. 

4()<)0 
47-59 

1821. 
1822. 

47''^3 
.tS.02 

The  following  shows  the  annual  means  of  temperature  in  the 
Orkneys,  also  the  means  for  each  season,  the  barometer,  and  the 
hygrometer,   taken   from  observations  extending  over  seventeen 

years. 


S|.ring. 

-;7-.^7 


Summer. 


5433 


Autumn. 


47.62 


Winter.       1         Vc.ir. 

li.iromcter.            K.iinf,ill. 

39°  2 1           46.26 

29.762  in.        36.66  in 

Tic  annual  rainfall  at  (llasgow  is  forty  inches;  of  Ayreshire, 
i.  itv  iv/o;  Whitehaven,  forty-eight;  Rest  wick,  si.xty-scvc  1  ;  and 
V.d:  ':wn  te,  eighty-si.\  (ICnc.  Hr.).  At  Drymen,  in  Stirlingshire, 
on  th:  west  coast  of  Scotland,  two  hundred  and  five  davs  during 
the  \  ear  were  found,  in  an  average  of  fourteen  years,  to  be  more 
or  l.'ss  rainy.  In  Unalashka.  in  seven  years,  the  average,  from 
\'>  niaininoff  s  observations,  is  one  hundred  and  fifty  days,  on  which 
1,0  states  only  twenty-seven  inches  of  rain  fell.  This  is  probably 
U/i)  low,  and,  judging  from  the  amount  of  rain  falling  in  other 
r:irts  of  Alaska,  I  venture  to  estimate  the  probable  rainfall  at 
'  'ut  forty  inches.  The  average  rainfall  in  Stirlingshire  is  about 
orty-three  inches  ;  in  Inverness,  on  the  cast  coast  of  Scotland, 
there  are  about  one  hundred  and  fifty  rainy  days,  and  the  aver- 


U-i 


I 


II     V 


446 


CLIMATE  AND  AGRICULTURAL  RESOURCES. 


age  rainfall  is  about  thirty  inches,  while  in  Hute,  on  the  west 
coast,  an  average  of  seven  years  gave  over  forty-six  and  a  half 
inches. 

Let  us  now  examine  the  productions  of  this  country,  which 
agrees  so  nearly  in  temperature  and  rainfall  with  what  wc  know 
of  the  Aleutian  District.  It  may  reasonably  prove  an  approxi- 
mate index  to  what  time  may  bring  to  pass  in  our  new  territory. 

On  the  opposite  page  will  be  found  statistics  of  the  agricultural 
productions  of  the  Highlands  and  adjacent  islands  of  Scotland 
These  formed  the  principal  support  of  over  two  millions  of  stock 
beside  the  farming  and  other  population. 

These  figures  show  notably,  that  the  quantity  of  potatoes,  and 
also  the  quantity  of  wheat,  is  small,  when  compared  with  tlic 
othc  crops  or  cereals. 

The  •  1  Highland  cattle  are  well  known,  and,  like  the  small 
Siberian  stock,  admirably  suited  to  such  a  climate  and  country. 
They  produce  tender,  well-flavored  beef,  and  extremely  rich  cream 
and  butter,  as  I  can  testify  from  personal  observation. 

The  climate  of  Scotland  furnishes  a  very  complete  parallel 
with  that  of  the  Aleutian  district  of  Alaska.  The  eastern  coast, 
defended  from  the  vapors  of  the  Atlantic  by  its  sheltering  moun- 
tains, is  m.ch  drier,  and  the  extremes  of  heat  and  cold  are  more 
marked,  than  in  the  western  portion  or  the  islands.  This  eastern 
coast  resembles  the  eastern  part  of  Cook's  Inlet  in  this  respect, 
and  the  interior  of  Alaska  generally. 

The  inhabitants  of  this  district,  principally  Aleuts,  are  faithful 
and  docile,  but  indolent  and  improvident.  They  make  good  sail- 
ors but  poor  farmers  ;  and  their  attempts  at  farming  have  been 
principally  under  the  direction  of  Russian  masters. 

There  is  no  timber  of  any  kind,  larger  than  a  shrub,  on  those 
islands  ;  but  there  is  no  prima  facie  reason  why  some  trees,  if 
properly  planted  and  drained,  should  not  flourish.  A  few  spruce 
were  transplanted  from  Sitka  in  1805  to  Unakishka.  Most  of 
them  lived,  but  were  not  cared  for,  and  the  situation  was  unflivor- 
able,  so  at  the  time  of  Kotzebue's  visit  they  had  not  increased  in 
size,  and  were  looking  very  poorly,  according  to  Chamisso. 

The  grasses  in  this  climate,  warmer  than  that  of  the  Yukon 
Territory,  and  drier  than  the  Sitkan  District,  attain  an  unwonted 
luxuriance. 


'- 


a 


t/1 


iCES. 


CLIMATE   AND   AGRICULTURAL   RESOURCES. 


447 


on  the  west 
IX  and  a  half 

iuntry,  which 
'hat  we  know 
:  an  approxi- 
icw  territory. 
s  agricultural 
of  Scotland, 
lions  of  stock 


potatoes,  and 
red  with  the 

ke  the  small 
and  country, 
ly  rich  cream 

>lete  parallel 
lastern  coast, 
:cring  moun- 
3ld  are  more 
This  eastern 
this  respect, 


are  faithful 
;e  good  sail- 

\        3 

in 

o 

C. 

.              n' 

;  have  hecn 

y  of  S 

lb,  on  those 
lie  trees,  if 

o 

3 

few  spruce 

X 

L.     Most  of 

< 

as  unflu'or- 

ncreased  in 

isso. 

the  Yukon 

I  unwonted 

3- 


Argvll,      . 

1  Arran,  . 

Caithness, 

Inverness,     . 

f  )rknev  and 

Zetland, 

Ross  &  Cromarty, 

Sutherland, 

o 

Arran,  . 
Caithness, 
Inverness,     . 
Orknev  and 
Zetland. 

Ross  &  Cromarty, 
.Sutherland, 

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44S 


CLIMATE   AND   AGRICULTURAL   RESOURCES. 


l*'or  example*  "  Unak'ishka,  in  the  vicinity  of  Captain's  Harbor, 
abounds  in  grasses,  with  a  climate  better  adapted  for  haying  than 
that  of  the  coasts  of  Oregon.  The  cattle  were  remarkably  fat, 
and  the  beef  very  tender  and  delicate,  rarely  surpassed  by  any 
well-fed  stock.  Milk  was  abundant.  The  good  and  available 
arable  land  lies  chiefly  near  the  coast,  formed  by  the  meeting  and 
mingling  of  the  detritus  from  mountain  and  valley  with  the  sea 
sand,  which  formed  a  remarkably  rich  and  genial  soil,  well  suited 
for  garden  and  root-crop  culture.  It  occurs  to  us  that  many 
choice  sunny  hillsides  here  would  produce  good  crops  under  the 
thrifty  hand  of  enterprise.  They  are  already  cleared  for  the 
plough.  Where  grain-like  grasses  {Elymus)  grow  and  mature 
well,  it  seems  fair  to  infer  that  oats  and  barley  would  thrive,  pro- 
vided they  were  fall-sown,  like  the  native  grasses.  This  is  abun- 
dantly verified  by  reference  to  the  collections.  Several  of  these 
grasses  had  already  (September)  matured  and  cast  their  seed  be- 
fore we  arrived,  showing  sufficient  length  of  season.  Indeed 
no  grain  will  yield  more  than  half  a  crop  of  poor  quality  (on 
the  Pacific  slope)  when  spring-sown,  whether  north  or  south." 
(Kellogg.) 

The  Russians  affirm,  with  confirmation  by  later  visitors,  that 
jjotatoes  are  cultivated  in  almost  every  Aleutian  village,  and 
Veniaminoff  states  that  (up  to  1837)  at  the  village  in  False  Pass 
or  Isanotski  Strait  they  have  raised  them,  and  preserved  the 
seed  for  planting,  since  the  beginning  of  this  century,  without 
interruption  ;  the  inhabitants  of  this  village,  by  so  doing,  having; 
escaped  the  effects  of  several  severe  famines  which  visited  their 
less  provident  and  industrious  neighbors. 

Wild  pease  grow  in  great  luxuriance  near  Unahishka  Ray,  and, 
according  to  Mr.  Davidson,  might  be  advantageously  cultivated. 
This  species,  the  Latliynis  mayithnns  of  botanists,  grows  as  far  ] 
north  as  latitude  64°. 

The  productions  of  all  the  islands  to  the  westward  resemble 
those  of  Unalashka.  In  September,  says  Dr.  Kellogg,  the  turnips 
here  were  large  and  of  excellent  quality  ;  carrots,  parsnips,  and 
cabbages  lacked  careful  attention,  but  were  good.  Wild  pars- 
nips (ArcJiangclica  officinalis)  are  abundant  and  edible  through  allj 

*  See  Report  of  Dr.  Kellogg,  Botanist  to  the  United  States  Coast  Survey  Explor- 
ing Party.     Ho.  Ex.  Doc.  177.     \L.  Congress,  II.  Session,  p.  218. 


ES. 

,n's  Harbor, 
liaying  than 
arkably  fat, 
;sccl  by  any 
id    available 
nceting  and 
vith  the  sea 
,  well  suited 
,   that  many 
)s  under  the 
ired    for   the 
and   mati'.ri 
:1  thrive,  pro- 
rhis  is  abnn- 
:cral  of  these 
their  seed  be- 
;on.     Indeed, 
r  quality  (on 
th  or  south." 

visitors,  that 
village,  and 

in  False  Pass 

preserved  the 
tury,  without 

Idoing,  havini; 
visited  their 

Ihka  Bay,  and, 
]ly  cultivated, 
crows  as  far 

lard  resemble 
|g,  the  turnips 
[parsnips,  and 
Wild  pars- 
lie  through  all  I 

1st  Survey  Explo'' 


CLIMATE   AND   AGRICULTURAL  RESOURCES. 


449 


these  islands.  At  the  height  of  2,450  feet  above  the  level  of  the 
sea,  according  to  the  Chamisso,  most  vegetation  ceases.  From 
the  reports  of  Dr.  Kellogg  and  others,  there  appears  to  be  no 
doubt  that  cattle  may  be  advantageously  kept  in  the  Aleutian 
District,  provided  competent  farmers  will  take  the  matter  in  hand. 
The  winter  climate  is  as  mild  as  that  of  the  Highlands  of  Scot- 
land, or  the  Orkneys,  where  stock  has  been  successfully  kept  from 
time  immemorial.* 

Indeed,  even  in  Iceland,  where  the  temperature  in  winter  some- 
times gets  as  low  as  thirty-five  below  zero,  we  learn  from  Sir 
(icorge  Mackenzie  that  four  fifths  of  their  entire  population  of 
eveiity  thousand  derive  their  maintenance  from  agriculture. 
Grain  does  not  mature,  but  the  grass  lands  (with  their  fisherie  ) 
are  their  greatest  wealth,  as  they  pasture  their  flocks  of  sheep 
and  cattle,  which  form  their  chief  means  of  subsistence  and  most 
important  articles  of  commerce.  The  number  of  sheep  in  Ice- 
land is  estimated  at  600,000;  there  are  about  25,000  cattle  and 
30,000  horses.  The  export  of  wool  in  1864  was  2,229.504  pounds, 
besides  the  amount  consumed  in  the  country!  After  this,  in 
the  y\leutian  District,  where  the  cold  is  never  greater  than  zero, 
wc  may  look  at  least  for  results  as  favorable. 

Golovi'n  states  that  at  one  time,  being  called  upon  by  the  terms 
of  their  charter  to  "  promote  agriculture,"  the  Russian  American 
Company  proposed  to  supply  the  Aleuts  with  stock,  gratis,  hop- 
ing also  to  prevent  the  famines  caused  by  taking  them  off  to  hunt 
sea-otter  during  the  fishing  season. 

The  Aleuts,  totally  ignorant  of  the  management  of  cattle,  did 
not  succeed  very  well.     Confined   at  night  in  the  low  buildings, 

♦  While  tlie.se  sheets  .ire  p.issing  throiii^h  the  ))ress,  I  am  pleased  to  he  ai)le  to 
record  the  complete  confirmation  of  the  above  oiiinion,  by  practical  tests.  The  .agent 
"fone  of  the  trading  companies  upon  the  Island  of  St.  I'aul,  Heiing  Sea  (160  miles 
north  of  the  Aleutian  chain),  in  the  fall  of  1S68.  introduced  cows,  sheep,  and  goats. 
The  Aleuts  hail  been  recjuestcd  to  provide  hay,  but,  not  knowing  iiow  to  cure  it,  the 
whole  was  spoiled.  On  the  arrival  of  the  cattle,  early  in  the  winter,  there  was  nothing 
lor  them  to  eat.  They  were,  therefore,  as  the  only  resort,  sheltered  at  night,  and 
turned  out  to  shift  for  themselves  daily  during  the  winter.  They  found  abnnd.ant 
forage  in  the  native  wild  barley  (Elymiis),  and  not  only  were  well  fed,  but  became  (on 
ilie  authority  of  an  eye-witness)  exceedingly  sleek  and  fat      The  calves  and  lambs  did 

I  «(.ll.     The  stock  is  now  considerably  increased,  and  has  every  prospect  of  flourishing 

I  in  future. 

t  See  Report  to  United  States  State  Department,  on  the  Resources  of  Iceland 

[and  Greenland,  by  B.  M.  I'eirce.     Washington,  1868. 
29 


1 


! 

lili 
lil 

i| 


P 
i 

III     ■ 


450 


CLIMATE   AND   AGRICULTURAL   RESOURCES. 


where  the  dry  fish  is  hung  up,  the  cows  knocked  it  down  and 
trampled  on  it,  while  their  new  masters  did  not  know  how  to  mil!; 
them.  The  hogs  committed  depredations  in  the  garden  jjatchcs, 
and  annoyed  the  women  hy  their  grunting  and  squealing.  The 
summer  residences  of  the  Aleuts  consisted  chieHy  of  tents,  and 
the  goats  appeared  to  take  pleasure  in  jumping  upon  and  knock- 
ing down  these  tents  in  the  night,  to  the  great  discomfort  of  the: 
sleeping  family  ;  so  they  were  very  soon  tired  of  them,  and  ghul 
to  get  rid  of  them.  In  Cook's  Inlet  the  natives  were  more  intelli- 
gent, or  had  more  experience,  and  their  cattle  did  much  better 
Hogs  were  placed  on  a  low  island  near  the  Churnobour  Reef,  in 
1825,  and  multiplied  exceedingly,  living  on  the  wild  parsnips 
and  other  native  plants  ;  but  they  were  destroyed  by  a  tidal  wave 
which  swept  over  the  island  during  the  eruption  of  the  volcano 
on  the  neighboring  island  of  Unimak,  two  years  after. 

T/ic  Sitkati  District.  —  This  district  extends  from  the  southern 
boundary,  including  the  mainland  and  islands,  to  the  peninsula  of 
Aliaska,  and  also  K  iiak  and  the  adjacent  islands. 

The  surface  of  this  part  of  the  territory  is  rugged  and  moun- 
tainous in  the  extreme.  The  northern  part  alone  furnishes  any 
appreciable  amount  of  arable  land,  level  and  suitable  for  cultiva- 
tion. Small  patches  occur  in  the  southern  part  here  and  there, 
where  small  farms  might  be  located  ;  but  as  a  rule  the  mountains 
descend  precipitously  into  the  sea  with  their  flanks  covered  with 
dense  and  almost  impenetrable  forests.  These  rise  to  an  altitude 
of  about  fifteen  hundred  feet  above  the  sea.  Here  and  there  a 
white  streak  shows  where  an  avalanche  has  cut  its  way  from  the 
mountain-top,  through  the  forest,  to  the  water-side  ;  and  occasion- 
ally the  shining  front  of  a  glacier  occupies  some  deep  ravine,  con- 
trasting curiously  with  the  dense  foliage  on  either  side. 

The  canals  and  channels  of  the  Alexander  Archipelago  form 
the  highways  of  the  country,  and  so  intricate  and  tortuous  are 
they  that  they  afford  access  to  almost  every  part  of  it  without  the 
necessity  for  setting  foot  on  shore. 

The  soil  is  principally  vegetable  mould,  with  substrata  cf  gravel 
or  dark-colored  clay.  The  soil  of  Cook's  Inlet  and  Kadiak  is  of 
a  similar  character ;  but,  from  an  admixture  of  volcanic  sand 
thrown  up  by  the  waves,  and  abundant  sandstone  strata,  it  is 
lighter,  drier,  and  better  adapted  for  cultivation. 


CLIMATE   AND   AGRICULTURAL   RESOURCES, 


451 


The  climate  of  the  southern  portion  of  the  district  is  very  mild, 
hut  intolerably  rainy.  The  annual  rainfall  at  Sitka  varies  from 
si.xty  to  ninety-five  inches  (wiiich  is,  however,  about  the  same  as 
at  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia),  and  the  annual  number  of  more 
or  less  rainy  days  varies  from  one  hundred  and  ninety  to  two 
lunnlreil  and  eighty-five.  In  UnaUishka  the  annual  number  of 
rainy  days  is  about  one  hundred  and  fifty,  and  the  annual  fall 
of  rain  and  melted  snow  is  nearly  forty  inches.  This  last  estimate 
is  probably  not  no  low  for  the  island  of  Kadiak,  and  the  eastern 
part  of  Cook's  Inlet. 

The  annual  means  of  the  temperature  about  Sitka  arc  by  no 
means  low,  in  spite  of  the  rainy  summers.  The  following  table 
will  indicate  the  means  for  the  .several  seasons  during  the  year 
ending  October  31,  1868,  from  the  report  of  the  United  States 
Coast  Survey  observers  :  — 

Meteorological  Aiistract,  Stika. 


Season. 

Mean  lemp. 

Kaiiifall. 

Fair  days. 

Cloudy  days. 

Kainy  days. 

33 
36 
44 
21 

Snowy  days. 

Sprinj; .     . 
Summer    . 
.\  Ml  limn    . 
Winter.     . 

42°.6 
55  7 
45  -9 
31  -9 

in. 
14.64 
10.14 
28.70 
1459 

6807 

22 
21 
I<) 

44 
106 

70 
71 
7^ 
47 

15 

b 

5 
6 

26 

V'car     .     . 

44.07 

260 

134 

The  minimum  temperature  for  the  year  was  1 1°,  the  maximum 
71",  giving  the  thermometer  a  range  of  si.xty  degrees.  It  will  be 
noticed  that  the  average  temperature  of  the  winter  is  hardly  below 
the  freezing-point,  the  greatest  degree  of  cold  being  eleven  above 
zero.  The  average  of  many  year.s'  observation  places  the  mean 
K'///Av' temperature  about  thirty-three  Fahrenheit,  which  is  nearly 
that  of  Mannheim  on  the  Rhine,  and  warmer  than  Munich, 
Vienna,  or  Berlin.  It  is  about  the  same  as  that  of  Washington 
((,095  miles  farther  south),  and  warmer  than  New  York,  Philadel- 
phia, or  Baltimore.*  The  cloudiness  and  rain  of  the  j//w;//^ 7- .sea- 
son, however,  prevent  it  from  being  nearly  as  warm  as  at  any  of 
the  places  above  mentioned.  Very  little  ice  is  made  at  Sitka  ;  the 
snow,  or  rather  slush,  lies  only  for  a  few  days  in  the  street,  and  a 

*  See  Report  of  Professor  Lorin  Blodgctt  in  the  Report  of  House  Committee  on 
Foreign  Affairs,  XL.  Congress,  IL  Session,  p.  T,C>ctsi-q. 


']• 


452 


CLIMATE  AND   AGRICULTURAL  RESOURCES. 


small  species  of  humming-bird  {Sclns/>/ionis  nifiis)  breeds  there  in 
abundance. 

The  Indians  inhabit  the  Alexander  y\rchipclaf;n  and  the  coast 
nearly  to  Prince  William  Sound.  North  of  this  the  Innuit  are 
found  on  the  coast  and  the  Indians  only  in  the  interior.  The 
former  have  made  some  progress  in  agriculture  in  Cook's  Iidet  and 
on  Kadiiik  and  the  south  shore  of  Aliaska.  The  remainder  of 
the  native  population  perform  no  agricultural  labor  whatever,  ex- 
cept in  collecting  indigenous  roots  and  berries  for  food. 

In  the  southern  part  of  this  district  there  is  little  beside  the 
timber,  from  an  agricultural  point  of  view.  Near  Fort  Simpson, 
and  at  Sitka,  Dr.  Kellogg  describes  timothy,  white  clover,  and  med- 
ick,  or  burr  clover,  as  flourishing  in  great  luxuriance.  Dr.  Roth- 
rock  says  the  same  of  the  native  grasses  in  the  interior  ;  but  south 
of  Prince  William  Sound  there  is  so  little  lowland  or  prairie  that 
there  is  no  good  opportunity  for  raising  fodder,  and  the  climate 
would  render  its  preservation  extremely  precarious.  The  cl.arac- 
ter  of  the  country  is  so  rugged  that  it  would  hardly  be  advisable 
to  keep  many  cattle,  and  cereals,  on  acccount  of  the  moisture,  arc 
not  to  be  thought  of. 

At  Sitka  some  vegetables  do  very  well.  Turnips,  beans,  pease, 
carrots,  beets,  lettuce,  and  radishes  are  successful.  Potatoes  arc 
small  and  watery,  from  want  of  sun  and  excess  of  moisture.  Cal)- 
bages  are  thrifty,  but  will  not  head.  Cereals  fail.  Some  few  cat- 
tle are  kept.  The  milk  and  cream  are  very  good.  I'ork  has  a  dis- 
ageeable  flavor  from  being  fed  on  fish  entrails,  &c.  There  was,  in 
1865,  one  old  horse  who  had  evidently  seen  better  days.  Poultry 
has  not  succeeded  well.  Liitke  says  that  the  crows,  who  are  ex- 
tremely rapacious,  devour  all  the  young  chickens,  and  also  deprive 
the  sucking  pigs  of  their  tails ! 

To  the  northern  part  of  this  district  the  above  remarks  do  not 
apply.  Kadiak  and  Cook's  Inlet,  northeast  of  I'ort  Alexander, 
have  comparatively  colder  winters  and  drier  and  warmer  sum- 
mers than  the  islands  and  coast  to  the  west  or  south  of  them. 
Haying  can  be  successfully  carried  on,  the  native  grasses  being 
valuable  for  fodder,  green  or  dry.  Barley  and  oats  have  been  suc- 
cessfully raised  near  the  settlement  of  St.  Nicholas  on  Cook's 
Inlet. 

There  is  no  want  of  wood,  while  it  does  not  encroach  on  the 


CLIMATE   AND   AGRICULTURAL   RESOURCES. 


453 


lowlaml,  which  is  clear  of  underbrush  ami  trees.  Amon^  the  an- 
nual productions  of  the  colony,  in  the  official  report  of  the  Com- 
mittee on  the  Colonies  to  the  I^mperor  of  Russia  (St.  Peters- 
burg;, 1863)  are  enumerated  ioX,ooo  pounds  of  salted  meat,  170 
casks  of  potatoes,  150  of  turnips,  and  180  casks  of  berries.  Dr. 
Kclloj;;^  says  of  Kadiak  :  "  Various  herbs  and  grasses  clothe  the 
mountains  to  their  summits.  The  summer  climate  here,  unlike 
that  of  Sitka,  is  sufficiently  fine  for  hayinj;.  We  saw  many  mown 
valleys,  from  which  a  good  supply  of  hay  from  the  native  grasses 
had  been  secured.  The  cattle  were  fat,  and  milk  was  abundant. 
The  butter  was  yellow  and  appeared  remarkably  rich,  though  of  a 
disagreeable  flavor,  which  might  be  owing  to  the  manner  of  mak- 
ing." The  potatoes  were  better  than  at  Sitka,  but  do  not  attain 
a  very  large  size.  It  has  already  been  mentioned  that  the  cattle 
distributed  to  the  nativjs  by  the  Russian  American  Company 
ditl  very  well  in  Cook's  Inlet.  The  Inlet  freezes  in  winter  as  far 
west  as  the  mouth  of  Chugachik  Bay. 

The  great  agricultural  staple  of  the  southern  Sitkan  district  is 
timber.     I  enumerate  the  forest  trees  in  the  order  of  their  value. 

Ycl/o'iU  Cedar  {C.  Xiitkatciisis,  Spach.).  —  This  is  the  most  valu- 
able wood  on  the  Pacific  coast.  It  combines  a  fine,  close  texture 
with  considerable  hardness,  extreme  durability,  and  pleasant  fra- 
i;rance.  "  For  boat-building  it  is  unsurpassed,  from  its  lightness, 
toughness,  ease  of  workmanship,   and   great   durability."     (Kel- 

The  forests  of  Puget  Sound,  which  have  been  mentioned  as 
more  accessible  than  the  Alaskan  timber,  are  rapidly  falling  under 
the  axe  of  the  woodsman.  Most  of  the  more  adjacent  timber 
is  already  cut,  and  logs  have  now  to  be  hauled  some  distance  to 
the  mills.  The  Puget  Sound  timber,  as  ship-building  material,  is 
far  inferior  to  the  yellow  cedar.  The  latter  is  peculiar  to  Alaska, 
and  the  only  good  ship-timber  on  the  Pacific  coast.  The  h;-:h 
rates  and  short  terms  of  insurance,  on  vessels  built  of  Orr.'- 
pine,  show  its  inferiority  better  than  any  amount  of  argument. 
The  cedar  somewhat  resembles  boxwood  in  texture  and  color,  and 
has  an  agreeable  odor.  It  is  familiar  to  many,  under  the  name 
of  "camphor  wood,"  in  the  shape  of  Chinese  boxes. 

"  After  ascending  for  some  distance  the  mountain-side  of  the 
island  of  Sitka,"  says  Mertens,  the  botanist,  in  a  letter  to  a  friend 


if! 


454 


CLIMATE   AND    AGRICULTURAL    KKSOURCLS. 


at  St.  Pctcrshiirf;.  "the  wood,  wliich  appears  in  incrcasiMl  dciisc- 
ncss  before  us,  consists  particularly  of  a  noble  cedar.  This  is  the 
timber  most  valued  here.  It  occurs  farther  down,  where  the  more 
predominant  spruce-trees  conceal  it  from  view  ;  but  here  it  con- 
.stitutes  almost  the  entire  timlxT."  From  its  aj^reeable  perfume, 
it  is  known  to  the  Russians  :\s  " diis/iiiik,"  or  scent-wootl.  This 
is  the  wood  formerly  exported  to  China,  and  returned  to  us  famous 
for  e.xchulinj.;  moths,  &c.  In  repairing;  old  I''ort  Simpson,  a  stick 
of  this  cedar,'' aiponji  the  spruce  timbers  used  for  underpinning, 
was  found  to  be  the  only  soimd  log,  after  twenty-one  years'  trial. 
A  wreck  on  the  beach  at  Sitka,  originally  constructed  of  this 
timber,  thirty-two  years  after  is  as  sound  as  the  day  it  was  built ; 
even  the  iron  biOts  are  not  corroded.  A  piece  of  this  wreck  is 
now  in  the  office  of  the  United  States  Coast  Survey,  at  Washing- 
ton. 

Sitka  Spmcc  or  White  Piitc  {.lines  Sitkcnsis,  Bong.).  —  This 
tree  is  well  known  in  the  lumber  trade  of  the  coast,  attains  a 
large  size,  and  is  noteworthy  from  its  straight  and  tapering  trunk. 
The  wood  is  not  so  durable  as  the  last-named,  but  is  ava''able  for 
many  purposes.     It  is  found  near  the  water's  edge  in  t  pro- 

fusion throughout  the  Alexander  Archipelago. 

Hemlock'  {Abies  Merteiisiana,  Bong).  —  Tiie  timber  of  this 
species  is  often  confounded  with  that  of  the  preceding  and  more 
durable  spruce,  by  lumber  dealers,  who  style  them  both  "  Sitka 
pine."  It  is  much  larger  in  its  growth  than  the  next  species,  but 
has  been  considered  a  variety  by  some  botanists. 

Balscvh  Fir  {Abies  Canadensis,  Michx.).  —  The  timber  of  this 
tree  is  almost  valueless,  but  the  bark,  with  that  of  the  last- 
named,  is  used  in  tanning,  and  the  balsam  in  medicine  and  the 
arts. 

Scrnb  Pine  {Pinns  couiorta,  Dougl.).  —  This  pine  seldom 
grows  more  than  forty  feet  clear  trunk,  and  eighteen  inches  in 
diameter.  It  passes  north  in  the  interior  only  to  the  junction  ot 
the  Lewis  or  Tahco  and  the  Pelly  Rivers. 

Otlicr  trees,  such  as  the  juniper,  wild  pear,  and  the  like,  mriv 
be  of  some  use,  but  from  their  small  size  or  scarcity  are  of  little 
economical  value. 

*  This  cedar  sometimes  reaches  a  diameter  of  eight  feet,  but  a  common  size  is  tliicc 
to  five  feet. 


i'Uc'.; 


•.s. 


CLIMATE   AND   AGRICULTURAL    RliSOURCKS. 


455 


■ii-d  donse- 
riiis  is  the 
L-  I  he  more 
lerc  it  con- 
le  perfume, 
ooil.  This 
)  us  famous 
;on,  a  stick 
lerpimiing, 
years'  trial, 
ed  of  this 
was  built ; 
is  wreck  is 
t  Wayhing- 

g.).  —  This 
t,  attains  a 
;ring  trunk, 
va'^ahle  for 
J  t  pro- 

r    of    this 

and  more 

oth  "Sitka 

pccies,  but 

Dcr  of  this 

if  the  last- 

ne  and  the 

nc  seldom 
1  inches  in 
junction  ot 

,e  like,  m;iv 
are  of  little 

Dii  size  is  tliict 


In  Kadiiik,  Dr.  Kello<fn;  found  the  growth  of  timber  (./.  Si/- 
/,u''/sis)  confined  to  the  eastern  valleys  ami  slopes  of  the  island. 
The  larj^est  seen  were  three  feet  in  diameter  and  ninety  to  one 
hundred  fi-et  high.  In  the  governor's  yard  were  masts  and 
spars  over  one  hundred  feet  in  length  scarcely  tapering  two 
inches  in  thirty  or  forty  feet  ;  these  were  from  Kadiak,  but 
many  arc  brought  in  rafts  from  .Spruce  Island,  ten  or  fitlcen  miles 
off.  The  wooded  district  comprises  the  whole  Alexander  Archi- 
pelago and  the  mainland  north  to  Lituya  liay  ;  from  this  point  to 
Prince  William  Sound  little  is  known  of  the  character  or  quan- 
tity of  the  timber,  but  in  the  latter  locality.  Cook's  Inlet,  and  the 
entire  interior,  timber  abounds,  extending  westward  on  to  the 
peninsula  of  Ali;iska  antl  Kadiak  and  other  islands  of  the  Kadiak 
Archipelago. 

(iiiic)\il  Siimimvy.  —  While  in  the  Yukon  Territory  we  can- 
not look  for  self-supporting  agricultural  districts,  nor  reasonably 
expect  any  one  to  obtain  a  subsistence  by  farming  alone  ;  still,  the 
settler  called  there  to  develop  the  resources  o'  the  country,  be 
they  lumber,  fish,  or  furs,  may  have  milk  in  his  tea,  and  fresh 
vegetables  on  his  table,  if  he  possess  the  energy  and  knowledge 
to  make  the  most  of  his  opportunities.  It  will  not  be  necessary 
for  him  to  rely  on  the  products  of  the  chase  alone,  if  he  will  but 
take  the  necessary  care  to  provide  shelter  for  his  cattle,  and  to 
cut  and  gather  for  their  winter  fodder  the  perennial  gras.ses  which 
cover  the  prairies  and  lowlands. 

In  the  yVleutian  District  is  situated  the  larger  proportion  of  the 
arable  land  of  the  territory  of  Alaska.  In  this  and  in  the  north- 
ern part  of  the  Sitkan  District  the  climatic  conditions  are  the 
most  favorable  for  agriculture  in  the  territory.  Their  resem- 
blance to  the  conditions  which  prevail  in  Northwestern  Scotlantl 
and  its  islands  has  been  already  demonstratetl  at  length  ;  ami  the 
cap;'.bility  of  this  district  for  agriculture  may  therefore  be  reason- 
ably inferred.  Oats  and  barley,  possibly  wheat  and  rye,  may  suc- 
ceed on  these  islands.  Their  abundant  capacity  for  producing 
root  crops  of  good  quality,  except  perhaps  potatoes,  may  be  con- 
sidered as  settled.  That  cattle  will  do  well  there,  there  is  no 
doubt,  and  the  Pacific  slope  may  yet  derive  its  best  butter  and 
cheese  from  the  Aleutian  and  northern  Sitkan  districts.  .Sheep, 
goats,  and  swine  have  not  been  thoroughly  tried  as  yet,  but  the 


iiiil 


456 


CLIMATE   AND   AGRICULTURAL   RESOURCES. 


;• 


II 

Hi 


inferencvi  is  that  they  also  would  succeed.  Most  of  the  berries 
found  in  the  Yukon  Territory  are  also  common  to  the  Aleutian 
District,  and  the  climate,  unless  from  its  moisture,  presents  no 
obstacles  to  tiie  success  of  '^ome  kinds  of  fruit-trees.  It  is  to  be 
hoped,  at  least,  that  some  one  will  try  the  experiment. 

These  islands,  Kadiak,  and  Cook's  Inlet  are  unquestionably  the 
best  agricultural  country  in  our  new  possessions. 

The  resources  of  the  southern  Sitkan  District  lie  apparently 
entirely  in  its  timber.  This  is  unquestionably  needed  on  the  ]'a- 
cific  coast,  and  a  most  valuable  acquisition.  No  better  lumbering 
district  can  be  imagined,  with  water  transportation  everywhere, 
and  mountain-sides  so  steep  that  a  slide  —  easily  made,  of  the  least 
valuable  timber — will  conduct  the  logs  directly  to  the  water-side. 
Some  vegetables,  in  the  future  as  in  the  past,  will  be  raised,  and 
some  stock  kept  in  this  part  of  Alaska,  but  probably  never  to 
any  great  extent. 

Many  reports  may  be  found  in  circulation,  even  in  official  docu- 
ments, in  regard  to  Alaska,  having  very  little  foundation.  While 
Massachusetts,  since  her  settlement,  has  never  exported  any  pro- 
ducts of  her  soil  except  granite  and  ice,  we  may  look  in  less  than 
two  hundred  and  fifty  years  to  receive  from  /Jaska  suj^plies  of 
ship-timber,  butter,  cheese,  wool,  mutton,  and  beef;  and  perhaps 
more  palatable  fruits  may  take  the  place  of  the  well-flavored  cran- 
berries which  have  already  found  their  way  to  San  Francisco 
markets. 


u 


!  II 


i  III 


'■^i»m 


1. 


CHAPTER  V. 


Geology  and  Mineral  Resources. 


T  TNTIL  a  very  recent  date  all  ihe  known  facts  in  regard  to  the 
v^  geolojijy  and  mineralogy  of  Alaska  were  presented  in  the 
admirable  work  of  Grcwingk,  and  were  due  to  the  researches  of 
the  naturalists  connected  with  the  various  exploring  expeditions, 
or  to  the  collections  of  Doroshin,  Wossnessensky,  and  others  em- 
ployed by  the  Russian  authorities.  Owing  to  the  recent  investi- 
gations of  Whitney,  Newberry,  Heer,  Kennicott,  and  the  Scien- 
tific Corps  of  the  Telegraph  Expedition,  our  knowledge  has  been 
much  increased,  though  a  wide  field  still  remains  open  lor  further 


uivostigation. 


Much  light  has  been,  and  doubtless  will  continue  to  be,  thrown 
on  the  geology  of  the  extreme  northwest,  from  explorations  in 
more  southern  latitudes,  as  a  considerable  parallelism  must  exist 
if  we  assume  the  coeval  elevation  of  the  northern  and  the  southern 
portions  of  the  different  ranges. 

Most  geologists  agree  in  referring  the  elevation  of  the  Rocky 
Mountains  to  the  Tria-^sic  period.  There  seems  to  be  no  reason 
why  the  Sierra  Nevada  and  Cascade  ranges  should  not  be  in- 
cluded in  this  generalization. 

On  the  banks  of  the  Porcupine  River,  near  the  boundary  line, 
Robert  Kennicott  and  the  Rev.  W.  W.  Kirkby  obtained  fossil 
corals  and  molluscan  remains,  referred  by  Mr.  F.  B.  Meek  to 
the  Devonian  age  (Hamilton  group).  On  the  /vrctic  coast  the 
.summit  of  Cape  Lisburne  alford<.'d  'J'nbiporil  .md  F.ncrinitcs, 
referred  to  the  Carboniferous  age  by  Auckland  Cape  Thompson, 
on  the  sami;  authority,  contained  madrepores  and  other  corals, 
polyzoa,  Proditctus,  and  other  molluscan  remains.  The  Carbon- 
itcrous  limestone  from  this  locality,  according  to  Grewingk,  is  al- 
most entirely  composed  of  the  encrinites.  At  Cape  Heaufort  a 
vein  of  true  Carboniferous  coal  v/us  discovered  near  the  shore.    In 


•I; 


m 


m 


i|  i;  A: 


I.;    ... 
liil'l 


1 

:•;:   -i 

ill- 

1          - 

458 


GEOLOGY  AND  MINERAL  RESOURCES. 


the  Bay  of  Katmdi,  on  the  south  coast  of  Ahaska,  Wossnessdnsky 
obtained  Jurassic  ammonites  and  fra;^ments  of  belemnites.  It  is 
possible  that  the  sulphuret  of  copper,  reported  from  the  north 
shore  of  Aliaska,  may  be  contained  in  rocks  of  similar  age.  This 
completes  the  list  of  known  localities  of  rocks  older  thun  the  Cre- 
taceous in  Alaska. 

Early  in  the  Cretaceous  period  the  Cascade  Kanges  and  their 
analogues  to  the  north  were  washed  by  the  washes  of  the  great 
Cretaceous  sea.  Later  in  the  same  epoch  the  Coast  Ranges  were 
uplifted  by  plutonic  force.  To  the  immense  convulsions  which 
elevated  the  great  volcanic  peaks  of  these  ranges  is  probably  due 
that  immense  system  of  canals,  islands,  fiords,  and  inlets  which  are 
so  conspicuous  on  the  northwest  coast.  Most  of  the  Aleutian 
Islands  are  probably  of  later  elevation. 

Some  portions  of  the  sea-bed,  having  been  simultaneously 
elevated,  became  covered  with  dense  forests.  From  these  the 
important  beds  of  Cretaceous  lignites  on  the  west  coast  were 
formed.  Gradual  elevation  of  the  coast  continued.  In  the  early 
Miocene  (I'^ocenc  .-'  of  Foster,  Mississippi  Valley,  p.  322)  the 
climate  of  Greenland,  Spitzbergen,  the  Arctic  Islands,  the  north- 
ern part  of  America  and  Europe,  was  genial  and  temperate. 
Immense  forests  of  trees,  now  confined  to  far  more  southern 
latitudes,  existed  all  over  the  north.  In  the  valley  of  the  Yukon 
sycamores  {J^idtdNiis)  were  abundant.  On  the  shores  of  Cook's 
Inlet,  pines  {Pinits),  redwoods  {Sajiioin),  elms  {Uliniis),  four  species 
of  oaks  {Onariis),  three  of  walnuts  {Juglaiis),  ilex,  maple,  liquid- 
ambar,  taxodium,  and  many  other  trees  of  the  temperate  zone, 
beside  Myrica  and  Spiroca,  grew  in  profusion.  From  this  locality 
fifty-two  species  of  fossil  plants  arc  described,  of  which  twenty- 
two  are  common  to  beds  of  the  same  age  in  Northern  ICuro oc, 
and  a  smaller  number  to  Northern  Asia,  Greenland,  Spitzbergen, 
Vancouver  Island,  and  Oregon.  Species  of  Sequoia,  Coryliis,  and 
Pccoptcris,  have  been  obtained  from  Kake  Strait.  The  debris  of 
these  forests  forms  the  great  lignite  beds  of  Fort  Union,  Nebras- 
ka, as  well  as  most  of  the  beds  of  northern  lignite.  A  depression 
of  this  part  of  the  continent  then  began  ;  the  sea  covered  the  site 
of  the  sycamore  groves  of  the  Yukon,  and  in  the  highest  rocks 
(the  brown  sandstones  of  Nuhito)  of  that  valley  we  find  the  re- 
mains of  Ostrca  and  other  marine  shell-fish.     The  last  and  still 


3sness6nsky 
litcs.  It  is 
the  north 
•  age.  This  ■ 
m  the  Cre- 
ss and  their 
)f  the  great 
Ganges  were 
Isions  which 
•robably  due 
ts  which  arc 
he  Aleutian 

nultaneously 
n   these   the 
t  coast  were 
In  the  early 
p.  322)   the 
s,  the  north- 
1   temperate, 
are  southern 
the  Yukon 
es  of  Cook's 
four  species 
naple,  liquid- 
perate  zone, 
this  locality 
lich  twenty- 
ern  Europe, 
Spitzbergen, 
Coiyhis,  and 
he  lirbris  ot 
lion,  Nebras- 
A  depression 
ered  the  site 
lighcst  rocks 
find  the  re- 
ast  and  still 


GEOLOGY  AND  MINERAL  RESOURCES. 


459 


uninterrupted  era  of  elevation  then  commenced,  probably  at- 
tended at  first  with  great  volcanic  activity.  It  is  to  this  period 
that  the  elevation  of  many  of  the  Aleutian  Islands  must  be  re- 
ferred. In  the  Tertiary  beds,  which  lie  horizontally  on  their 
flanks,  shell-fish,  still  living  in  the  adjacent  waters,  are  abundant. 
A  colder  era  then  set  in,  during  which  the  arctic  vegetation 
spread  far  southward  of  its  present  limit.  For  this  change  of 
temperature  science  has  yet  found  no  satisfactory  solution.  One 
of  the  most  novel  of  the  many  theories  proposed  is  that  of  Dr. 
Oswald  Ileer,  who  has,  more  than  any  other  naturalist,  inves- 
tigated the  fossil  flora  of  the  temperate  period. 

It  is  known  to  astronomers  that  the  solar  system  passes 
through  a  vast  orbit  around  some  distant  centre,  and  that  it  is 
constantly  entering  new  regions  of  space.  We  come  from  the 
unknown,  and  plunge  into  the  unknown  ;  but  so  much  is  cer- 
tain, that  at  present  the  solar  system  is  in  a  region  thinly 
peopled  with  stars.  There  is  no  reason  to  doubt  that  it  may 
once  have  wandered  through  one  of  those  celestial  provinces 
where,  as  the  telescope  reveals,  constellations  are  far  more  dense- 
ly clustered.  But,  as  every  star  is  a  blazing  sun,  the  greater  or 
lesser  number  of  these  heavenly  bodies  must  evidently  have  a 
proportionate  influence  upon  the  temperature  of  space,  and  thus 
we  may  suppose  that  duruig  the  warm  Miocine  period  the  earth, 
being  in  a  populous  sidereal  region,  enjoy,  d  the  benefits  of  a 
higher  temperature,  which  clothed  even  its  poles  with  verdure. 
In  the  course  of  ages  the  sun  conducted  his  herd  of  plinels  into 
more  lonely  and  colder  regions,  which  caused  the  warm  Miocene 
era  to  be  succeeded  by  the  glacial  period,  and  finally  the  sun 
emerged  into  a  space  of  an  intermediate  character,  which  deter- 
mines the  present  condition  of  the  climate  of  our  globe.* 

At  the  commencement  of  the  cold  period,  huge  animals,  covered 
with  hair  to  resist  the  severe  temperature,  sprung  into  being. 
The  elephant  roamed  over  the  tundri  of  North  America  and 
Asia.  Later  the  reindeer  and  musk-ox  followed  the  arctic 
vegetation  as  it  spread  southward.  The  northeastern  portion  of 
the  United  States  was  covered,  as  Greenland  is  now,  with  a  near- 
ly, if  not  quite,  continuous  glacier  sheet.  I'^rom  the  evidences  be- 
fore us  we  are  unable  to  declare  that  this  "  general  "  ice  sheet 
extended  to  Siberia,  Alaska,  or  the  entire  west  coast  of  yXmerica. 

*  See  IFartwig,  Polar  World,  ]).  14 


9 

II 


i 


460 


GEOLOGY  AND  MINERAL  RESOURCES. 


The  causes  which  produced  the  extinction  of  the  elephant  arc 
unknown,  It  is  more  probable  that  it  was  due  rather  to  the 
increased  cold  of  the  climate  beyond  what  they  were  fitted  to 
endure,  than  to  a  change  for  the  warmer,  as  has  been  suggested 
by  some  authors.  In  the  latter  case,  migration  northward  would 
have  been  open  to  them,  and  they  would  hardly  be  found  pre- 
served entire  in  masses  of  ice,  as  has  been  the  case  in  Siberia.  It 
is  probable  that  the  musk-ox  and  reindeer  were  long  posterior  to 
the  elephant  in  their  appearance  on  the  earth.  In  the  Yukon 
Valley  the  remains  of  the  elephant  are  everywhere  found  on  the 
surface,  except  when  recently  buried  by  fluviatile  action  ;  yet  they 
are  thoroughly  fossilized  and  destitute  of  animal  matter,  except  in 
the  very  interior  of  the  tusks.  On  the  other  hand,  the  remains  of 
the  musk-ox  found  in  similar  localities  still  preserve  an  animal 
odor,  and  sometimes  even  slight  remnants  of  the  sinews. 

During  the  period  of  most  intense  cold,  large  glaciers  were 
formed  in  the  gorges  and  ravines  of  the  Coast  Ranges.  As  the 
climate  grew  warmer,  they  diminished  in  size,  and  most  of  the 
more  southern  glaciers  disappeared  entirely.  Whitney  says,* 
"  The  explorations  of  the  Geological  Survey  of  California  have 
demonstrated  that  there  is  no  true  Northern  Drift  within  the 
limits  of  this  State.  Our  detrital  materials,  which  often  form 
deposits  of  great  extent  and  thickness,  are  invariably  found  to 
have  been  dependent  for  their  origin  and  present  condition  on 
causes  similar  to  those  now  in  action,  and  to  have  been  deposited 
on  the  flanks  and  at  the  bases  of  the  nearest  mountain  ranges,  by 
currents  of  water  rushing  down  their  slopes.  While  we  have 
abundant  evidence  of  the  former  existence  of  extensive  glaciers 
in  the  Sierra  Nevada,  there  is  no  reason  to  suppose  that  the  ice 
was  to  any  c'xtent  an  effective  agent  in  the  transportation  of  the 
superficial  deposits  now  resting  on  the  flanks  of  the  mountains. 
The  glaciers  were  confined  to  the  most  elevated  portions  of  the 
mountains,  and,  although  the  moraines  which  they  have  left  as 
evidences  of  their  former  extension  are  often  large  and  conspicu- 
ous, they  are  insignificant  in  comparison  with  the  detrital  masses 
formed  by  aqueous  erosion.  There  is  nothing  anywhere  in  Cali- 
fornia which  indicates  a  general  glacial  epoch,  during  which  ice 
covered  the  whole  country,  and  moved  bodies  of  detritus  over  the 

*  Proceedings  California  Academy  of  Natural  Sciences,  Vol.  HI-,  p-  272. 


*  It  is 
scoop  out 
duL'  to  th 
f;reatcr  ai 
very  loost 


GEOLOGY  AND  MINERAL  RESOURCES. 


461 


surface,  independently  of  its  present  configuration,  as  is  seen 
throughout  the  Northeastern  States." 

The  same  is  eminently  true,  as  far  as  we  know,  of  Alaska. 

For  opportunities  of  studying  the  phenomena  of  glaciation, 
American  students  need  no  longer  turn  to  the  Alps.  From  Bute 
Inlet  to  Unimak  Pass  almost  every  deep  gorge  of  considerable 
size  between  the  high  mountains,  for  which  this  coast  is  so  re- 
markable, has  at  its  head  a  glacier,  or  the  remains  of  one.  Some 
of  these  glaciers  are  of  extraordinary  size  and  grandeur.  The 
ice,  broken  from  their  overhanging  terminations,  has  given  rise  to 
such  names  as  Icy  Strait  and  Icy  Bay ;  and  smaller  fragments, 
concealed  by  the  adherent  mud  and  stones,  have  in  several  in- 
stances been  taken  for  permanent  rocks  by  the  earlier  navigators. 
The  question  naturally  arises,  To  what  extent  have  the  glaciers 
aided  in  producing  the  extraordinary  system  of  fiords  which  char- 
acterizes this  coast.'  Or  is  that  system  entirely  due  to  other 
causes,  and  are  the  glaciers  merely  incidental  ? 

If  the  excavation  of  these  innumerable  channels  and  inlets  be 
due  to  glacial  action,  we  shall  naturally  look  for  unmistakable  evi- 
dences of  the  fact  in  the  grinding  and  polishing  of  the  harder 
rocks  which  remain,  the  denudation  in  great  part  of  the  softer 
and  more  friable  ones,  the  transportation  of  large  quantities  of 
material,  and  its  deposition  off  the  present  coast-line,  in  sub- 
marine moraines,  of  which  the  soundings  should  give  evidence. 
The  ice  power  which  would  excavate  a  channel  fifty  fathoms  deep 
would  leave  no  uncertain  or  dubious  evidences  behind  it.* 

If,  on  the  other  hand,  we  do  not  look  to  glacial  action  for  a 
solution  of  the  problem,  we  may  suggest  the  hypothesis,  that  the 
same  power  which  raised  the  Coast  Ranges  to  their  stupendous 
height,  which  lifted  up  the  peaks  of  Criilon,  Fairweather,  and  St. 
Elias,  at  the  same  time  upheaved  the  strata  on  either  side  of  the 
main  line  of  elevation,  and  nearly  parallel  with  it,  thus  producing 
p  deep  incised  valleys  and  precipitous  mountains,  gorges,  and  ra- 
vines, of  which  the  submarine  portion,  by  its  position,  became  an 
archipelago  ;  while  that  above  the  sea,  cf  a  similar  character,  in  a 

*  It  is  probable  that  glaciers  seldom  cxiaTntc.  They  erotic  and  deniidc,  but  rarely 
scoop  out  material.  I  can  find  no  record  of  any  excavations  more  than  two  feet  deep 
due  to  the  action  of  ice  alone.  The  torrents  which  flow  from  under  glaciers  do  a  far 
{;reatcr  amount  of  excavating  than  the  ice  itself.  The  term  "  excavate  "  has  been 
very  loosely  used  in  connection  with  ice. 


i 


s 


<;,    ! 


.  ii!!:; 


111  I 


462 


GEOLOGY  AND   MINERAL  RESOURCES. 


latitude  and  under  climatic  influences  which  produced  a  greater 
deposition  (in  the  form  of  snow)  than  evaporation,  became,  through 
its  physical  conformation,  the  nurse  of  glaciers. 

The  weight  of  available  evidence  does  not  seem  to  support  the 
first  view  of  the  case.  The  lower  summits  of  gneiss,  granite,  and 
dolorite,  which  must  have  been  covered  in  past  time  with  the 
superincumbent  ice  sheet,  if  it  existed,  and  to  which  one  would 
look  for  such  evidences  as  polishing,  striation,  and  grinding  uown, 
offer  none.  Their  outlines,  and  the  rocks  of  which  they  are 
composed,  are  sharp,  and  exhibit  no  evidences  of  abrasion  or  ero- 
sion. 

The  absence  of  terraces,  of  any  extent,  has  been  noticed  by 
Professor  Blake,  in  his  account  of  the  glaciers  of  the  Stiki'ne 
River.  Wossnessensky  describes  none,  nor  does  Whymper,  in  his 
description  of  the  immense  glaciers  of  Bute  Inlet.  Nor  in  my 
own  observations  in  the  vicinity  of  Sitka,  and  the  peninsula  of 
Alidska,  have  I  met  with  any  cases  of  this  most  characteristic 
phenomenon  of  general  glacial  action.  If  the  glacier  field  once 
extended  over  the  entire  coast,  previous  to  the  formation  of  the 
archipelago,  we  may  conclude  that  the  more  northern  portions  of 
the  ternto-y,  north  of  the  Alaskan  Mountains,  would  not  have 
been  exempt  from  glacial  action.  Three  years'  exploration,  with 
a  strong  disposition  to  develop  the  facts  of  the  case,  failed  to 
obtain  on  the  shores  of  Norton  Sound,  or  in  the  valley  of  the 
Yukon,  any  evidence  whatever  of  such  action.  Once  only  were 
polished  rocks  met  with,  and  they  proved  on  examination  to  be 
"slicken-sides"  ;  while  no  instances  of  transported  materials, 
scratches,  boulders,  or  moraines,  were  anywhere  met  with.  The 
rolling  and  moderately  elevated  character  of  the  country  does  not 
favor  the  development  of  local  glaciers,  such  as  now  exist  on  the 
more  southern  coasts  of  Alaska. 

Thomas  Simpson  esiiecially  remarks  the  absence  of  drift  boul- 
ders on  the  Arctic  coast,  west  of  Return  Reef  of  Franklin.  These 
most  characteristic  evidences  of  glacial  action,  which  a  child  could 
not  overlook,  are  quite  absent  in  the  valley  of  the  Yukon. 

The  soft  Tertiary  strata  everywhere,  though  broken,  contortcJ, 
and  sometimes  meta^norphosed,  are  not  denuded,  except  from  the 
evident  local  action  of  local  glaciers. 

We  may  assume  that,  first,  the  general  course  of  a  continental 


vm 


GEOLOGY  AND  MINERAL  RESOURCES. 


463 


or  continuous  coast  glacier  will  be  parallel  with  the  general  slope 
of  the  coast,  irrespective  of  local  topography  to  any  material 
extent.  Second,  that  as  the  excavations,  rock,  scratches,  trans- 
portation of  material,  and  so  on,  of  course,  will  trend  in  the  same 
line,  consequently  the  terminal  and  other  moraines,  if  any  exist, 
will  be  found  to  cross  the  line  of  general  movement  at  right 
angles.  Third,  it  has  also  been  noticed  that  the  smaller  hills,  or 
mountains,  which  lay  in  the  path  of  the  New  England  glacier 
sheet,  according  to  Vose  and  other  geologists,*  always  have  the 
side  of  the  longest  slope  facing  the  direction  from  which  the  ice 
sheet  came. 

Glancing  on  the  chart  of  the  Alexander  Archipelago,  let  us 
examine  this  assemblage  of  islands,  inlets,  and  canals,  which,  by 
superficial  observers,  has  been  referred  to  the  action  of  ice. 

We  find  the  first  assumption  directly  contradicted.  The  line 
of  "excavation,"  if  we  still  feel  disposed  to  use  that  term,  is  at 
right  angles  to  the  watershed,  to  the  general  slope  of  the  coast 
mountains,  and  to  the  course  of  many  of  the  existing  local 
glaciers. 

Assuming  against  reason,  for  the  sake  of  argument,  that  this 
was  the  line  of  movement  of  the  glacier  sheet  (as  it  must  have 
been,  if  any  existed),  we  should,  under  the  .second  assumption, 
look  to  find  across  the  canals,  at  intervals,  or  at  least  in  solitary 
instances,  bars  or  submarine  moraines,  composed  of  the  detritus 
from  the  glacial  sheet,  at  a  time  when  the  rate  of  melting  was  equal 
to  its  rate  of  progress,  the  termination  and  noint  where  the  detri- 
tus was  deposited  consequently  remaining  «. early  stationary.  If 
any  such  exist,  which  under  the  circumstances  we  may  reasonably 
doubt,  the  soundings  would  give  unequivocal  evidences  of  it.  It 
is,  perhaps,  needless  to  say,  that  as  yet  we  have  no  such  informa 
tion.  In  regard  to  the  third  point,  Mr.  Davidson  mentions  in 
his  report  the  fact  that  the  abrupt  side  of  the  mountains  is 
almost  invariably  the  east  or  northeast  side,  which  excludes  the 
idea  of  a  glacier  sheet  from  any  direction,  except  from  the  sea, 
but  agrees  well  vviLU  the  hypothesis  of  '.n  upheaval  coeval  and 
parallel  with  that  of  the  Coast  Ran'-  .s. 

It  has  already  been  mentioned  that  the  deposition  of  detritus, 
in  the  form  of  shoals,  off  the  lai'gest  known  glaciers  of  this  coast, 

*  Memoirs  of  the  Boston  Society  of  Natural  History. 


m  i 


liii 


m  I 


m 


I 


i  i! 


464 


GEOLOGY  AND   MINERAL  RESOURCES. 


is  very  small,  especially  when  contrasted  with  that  deposited  by 
even  the  smaller  rivers.  The  excavation  of  such  immense  inlets 
and  channels  by  ice  action  would  necessarily  form  large  quanti- 
ties of  eroded  material,  which  must,  by  its  specific  gravity,  have 
been  deposited  somewhere  near  the  coast. 

It  is  therefore  considered  unnecessary  to  pursue  the  subject  of 
a  general  glacier  sheet  any  further,  and  it  only  remains  to  discuss 
the  indications  by  which  we  may  determine  the  former  extent 
and  amount  of  influence  of  the  local  glaciers. 

But  little  has  been  learned  so  far  in  regard  to  the  rate  of  mo- 
tion, and  other  circumstances  connected  with  the  magnificent 
glacier  system  of  the  coast  ranges  of  British  Columbia  and 
Alaska.  A  road,  built  across  one  of  the  glaciers  of  Bute  Inlet 
by  Mr.  Waddington,  of  Victoria,  was  noticed  to  have  moved 
some  ten  feet  out  of  line  during  the  winter  season,  when  the  road- 
builders  returned  in  the  spring.  No  regular  observations  have 
been  made,  however. 

That  the  majority  of  the  glaciers  are  decreasing  in  size,  and 
hence  that  the  climate  is  becoming  drier  or  warmer,  is  evident. 
The  glaciers  of  Bute  Inlet  and  the  Stiki'ne  have  notably  receded, 
leaving  their  tracks  unmistakable.  The  erosive  action  of  the 
glaciers  is  comparatively  small ;  from  some  of  them  issue  streams 
of  water  nearly  pure,*  and  they  do  not  give  rise  to  any  very 
extensive  shmls  off  the  coast. 

The  ca.se  ih  quite  dififerent  with  the  rivers.  The  Stiki'ne,  the 
Copper,  the  Suchitno,  all  bring  down  quantities  of  detritus,  annu- 
ally altering,  to  some  extent,  the  coast  line  in  the  immediate 
vicinity  of  their  embouchments. 

North  of  the  peninsula  of  Aliaska  this  river  action  is  going 
on  in  a  far  grander  manner.  The  Nushergak,  Kuskoqiiim,  and 
Yukon  rivers  annually  discharge  from  their  mouths  immense 
quantities  of  earthy  matter,  which  is  deposited  in  fine  mud,  and 
replaces,  in  Bering  Sea,  the  black  volcanic  sand  which  comes 
up  on  the  lead,  when  south  of  the  islands.  This  mud  has  formed 
the  largest  submarine  plateau  (with  so  slight  a  depth  of  water)  in 
the  world,  covering  two  thirds  of  Bering  Sea,  and  even  extending 
for  an  indefiinite  distance  through  and  beyond  Bering  Strait.  A 
de;p  sea  valley  exists,  however,  on  the  west  side  of  Bering  Sea, 

*  See  Whymper,  p.  27. 


going 


GEOLOGY   AND   MINERAL   RESOURCES. 


465 


between  the  Alaska  plateau  and  the  shoals  of  Anadyr  Gulf,  cul- 
minating in  the  mouth  of  Plover  Bay,  Eastern  Siberia.* 

When  the  spring  freshets  of  the  Yukon  come  down,  the  water 
is  laden  with  blocks  of  ice,  each  of  which  transports  its  share  of 
pebbles,  earth,  and  sand  ;  the  current,  twelve  to  twenty  fathoms 
deep,  in  places,  tears  away  with  resistless  violence  alluvial  banks 
formed  years  before,  and  carries  them  along,  depositing  them 
little  by  little,  thus  changing  annually  its  channel  and  depth  of 
water,  cutting  away  islands  and  fo'^ming  new  ones,  and  lessening 
slowly,  but  surely,  the  depth  of  water  in  Bering  Sea.  I  have 
noticed,  on  exposed  banks,  one  hundred  and  thirty  annual  layers 
of  earth  and  vegetable  matter,  in  a  depth  of  alluvium  of  only  six 
feet. 

There  can  be  but  little  doubt  that  the  whole  of  the  peninsular 
portion  of  Alaska,  west  of  the  150th  degree  of  longitude,  is  under- 
going gradual  elevation.  This  is  accelerated  occasionally  by 
volcanic  action  in  localities  of  limited  extent.  A  single  instance 
is  known  in  Chalmers  Bay,  Prince  William  Sound,  of  subsidence 
of  a  low  point  formerly  covered  with  trees,  whose  stumps  are 
now  far  below  the  lowest  tide  level.  But  this,  in  the  absence  of 
further  information,  must  be  regarded  as  a  merely  local  phenome- 
non.    The  coast  of  Eastern  Siberia  is  also  undergoing  elevation. 

The  facts  in  support  of  the  above  hypothesis  are  many.  On 
the  neck  of  land  between  Norton  Bay  and  Kotzebne  Sound  the 
shores  are  strewn  with  driftwood  piled  in  winrows  by  the  fall 
storms,  and  derived  originally  from  the  spring  fresl.ets  of  the 
Yukon  and  the  Kuskoqiiim.  Far  above  the  level  v/hich  the 
most  severe  storms  and  the  highest  tides  now  attain,  lie  regular 
rows  of  wood,  much  decayed,  but  still  preserving  its  shape,  and 
evidently  brought  there  by  the  waves.  This  may  also  be  noted 
on  the  southeast  end  of  St.  Michael's  Island,  Norton  Sound.  In 
the  mouth  of  the  Canal,  or  passage  between  St.  Michael's  and 
the  mainland,  not  far  from  the  fort  of  the  trading  company,  lie  a 
cluster  of  basaltic  rocks,  full  of  amygdaloidal  cavities.  The 
upper  portion  of  these  rocks  is  at  least  fifteen  feet  above  the 
level  of  high  water,  and  a  little  grass  grows  there,  but  in  t'ne 
cavities  can  still  be  found,  /;/  situ,  portions  of  the  shelly  covering 

*  Captain  Fish,  of  the  whaling  brig  Victoria,  reports  here  ^^^  '"  *'^^  mouth  of  the 
bay ;  and  -gj  was  obtained  farther  in,  by  the  Western  Union  Telegraph  Expedition. 
30 


%u 


niif! 


466 


GEOLOGY  AND  MINERAL  RESOURCES. 


i 


of  a  speciof.  of  barnacle  {balanus),  which  must  have  lived  there 
when  it  was  daily  covered  by  the  tide.  The  flanks  of  the  Aleu- 
tian Islands  in  many  localities  bear  nearly  horizontal  Tertiary 
strata,  which  contain  fossil  shells,  undoubtedly  identical  as  to 
species  with  living  forms  now  abundant  in  the  waters  which 
surround  them,  showing  that  they  have  been  elevated  within  a 
comparatively  short  (geological)  time. 

The  lagoon  of  Isanotski,  long  marked  from  French  surveys  in 
the  last  century  as  a  navigable  though  dangerous  passage,  is  now 
an  impassable  cul-de-sac.  This,  however,  may  be  due  to  imper- 
fections in  the  original  survey,  and  not  to  subsequent  elevation. 

Captain  Riedell,  of  the  bark  Constantine,  states  that  in  the 
inner  portion  of  the  south  harbor  of  Unga  Island,  one  of  the 
Shiimagins,  where  he  had  previously  obtained  four  fathoms, 
muddy  bottom,  after  the  slight  earthquake  shock  of  May,  1868, 
he  sounded,  obtaining  only  four  feet  in  the  same  place.  The 
lower  portion  of  the  harbor  retained,  however,  abundance  of 
water.  Careful  and  exact  charts  of  given  localities  are  needed 
to  determine  with  accuracy  the  rate  of  the  gradual  elevation. 

Should  the  elevation  of  the  land  and  the  annual  deposition  of 
earthy  material  continue,  geologically  the  time  is  not  far  distant 
when  a  great  part  of  Bering  Sea  may  become  dry  land,  and  Asia 
be  joined  unto  America. 

Plutonic  forces  have  been  more  or  less  active  in  Alaska  since 
the  end  of  the  Miocene  period.  Their  violence  appears  to  have 
diminished  during  historical  times.  Many  formerly  active  vol- 
canoes have  become  quiet  or  extinct,  earthquake  shocks  are  less 
frequent  and  less  violent  than  formerly,  and  no  remarkable  erup- 
tion has  taken  place  for  many  years.  The  following  information 
in  regard  to  igneous  action  is  derived  from  Grewingk. 

1690.    A  crater  was  formed  on  the  mountain  called  Khaginak  in 

the  island  of  Unimak. 
1700  to  1 7 10.    The  volcano  on  Amak  Island  and  two  others  were 

active.     (At  present  Amak  volcano  is  entirely  extinct.) 
1 74 1.    Iliamna  volcano  became  quiet. 
1760.    Adiikh,  Goreloi,  Chech I'tno,  and  Atka  volcanoes  smoked  for 

the  first  time  in  history.     Koniushi  Island  rose. 
1762.    Pavloff  volcano  on  Aliaska  showed  signs  of  activity. 


S( 
1768. 

ar 
1770. 

1772. 

1774- 

an 

un 

1776.    i 

1778.  : 

Sh 

1784.  ^ 

the 
1786.  i 
res: 
emi 
acti 
cea 
1788.  / 
Shi 
nak 
Fro 
790.  A 
wen 
occa 
mak 

1791.  Ir 

1792.  G 
Onl 

795-   A 
and 
tendi 
ilierc 

1796.  Ec 
histo 
arose 
very 


GEOLOGY  AND  MINERAL  RESOURCES. 


467 


^hdginak  in 


1763.    Tanaga  Peak  became  active,  and  continued  so  until  1770. 

Solfataras  appeared  upon  Kanaga. 
1768.    Two  volcanoes  were  active  on  Unalashka.     Mcdvicdnikofif 

and  Walrus  peaks  on  Aliaska  became  active. 
1770.    Aniukhta  volcanoes  became  quiet. 
1772.    S6mi-sop6chnoi  Islands  lost  their  activity. 

1774.  One  of  the  islands  of  the  Four  Craters  became  active. 

1775.  Mount  Caldcr,  on  Prince  of  Wales  Island,  became  active, 
and  one  of  the  Unimak  volcanoes  emitted  fire  occasionally 
until  1778. 

1776.  Sitignak  emitted  flames  in  July. 

1778.  Iliamna  resumed  and  has  since  kept  in  a  state  of  activity. 
Shishaldin  smoked. 

1784.  Vsevidoff  volcano  smoked.  An  eruption  took  place  from 
the  Chechi'tno  peak  in  July. 

1786.  Seguam  and  Amiikhta  volcanoes  became  active  ;  the  former 
rested  in  1790,  and  the  latter  the  following  year.  Kanaga 
emitted  flames.  The  northern  crater  of  Pavloff  Peak  became 
active.  It  fell  in,  and  after  a  violent  earthquake  its  activity 
ceased. 

1788.  An  earthquake,  attended  with  a  tidal  wave,  visited  the 
Shumagins.  On  the  27lh  of  July  the  water  overflowed  San- 
nak  Island,  destroying  the  hogs  which  had  been  placed  there. 
From  this  point  the  inundation  extended  to  Aliaska. 

;790.  Akutan  smoked.  Vsevidofl",  Kanaga,  and  Semi-sopochnoi 
were  active.  Makushin  on  Unalashka  had  active  periods 
occasionally  from  this  time  to  1792,  and  Shishaldin  on  tJni- 
mak  until  1825.     An  eruption  occurred  near  Chi'igach  Gulf 

1791.  In  June,  Tanaga  and  Kanaga  smoked. 

1792.  Great  Sitkin  and  Goreloi  emitted  fire  until  the  end  of  May. 
On  the  1st  of  June  Semi-sopochnoi  smoked. 

1795.  A  small  volcano  on  the  southwest  end  of  Unimak  exploded, 
and  fell  in  with  a  fearful  noise.  The  phenomenon  was  at- 
tended by  dense  clouds  of  white  ashes.  West  of  that  point 
ihere  are  hot  marshes. 

1796.  Edgecumbe  is  said  to  have  smoked  for  the  only  time  in 
history.  On  the  ist  of  May,  according  to  Baranofi",  a  storm 
arose  near  tJmnak,  and  continued  for  several  days.  It  was 
very  dark  all  this  time,  and  low  noises  resembling  thunder 


'B 


;i':Hii 


I 


jr 


468 


GEOLOGY  AND  MINERAL  RESOURCES. 


1796.  were  continually  heard.  On  the  third  day  the  sky  became 
clear  very  early,  and  a  flame  was  seen  arising  from  the  sea 
between  Unahishka  antl  IJmnak.  North  of  the  latter,  smoke 
was  observed  for  ten  days.  At  the  end  of  this  time,  from 
UnaUi-shka  a  round  white  mass  was  seen  rising  out  of  the  sea. 
During  the  night  fire  arose  in  the  same  locality,  so  that  ob- 
jects ten  miles  off  were  distinctly  visible.  An  earthquake 
shook  Unahishka,  and  was  accompanied  by  fearful  noises, 
Rocks  were  thrown  from  the  new  volcano  as  far  as  rmiuik. 
With  sunrise  the  noises  ceased,  the  fire  diminished,  and  the 
new  island  was  seen  in  the  form  of  a  black  cone.  It  was 
named  after  St.  John  the  Theologian  {yodnita  Jhygosldva). 
A  month  later  it  was  considerably  higher,  and  emitted  flamiv 
constantly.  It  continued  to  rise,  but  steam  and  smoke  took 
the  place  of  fire.  Four  years  after  no  smoke  was  seen,  and 
in  1804  the  island  was  visited  by  hunters.  They  found  the 
sea  warm  around  it,  and  the  soil  in  many  places  too  hot  to 
walk  on.  It  was  said  to  be  two  miles  and  a  half  around,  and 
three  hundred  and  fifty  feet  high.  The  soil  emitted  an  odor 
of  bitumen.  It  is  forty-five  versts,  or  nearly  thirty -four  miles, 
due  west  from  the  north  point  of  Unahishka.  In  1806  l;na 
flowed  from  the  summit  into  the  sea  on  the  north  side.  Fis- 
sures appeared,  lined  with  crystals  of  sulphur.  Veniamfnoff 
says  that  it  ceased  to  enlarge  in  1823,  when  it  was  of  a  py- 
ramidal form,  and  about  fifteen  hundred  feet  high.  There  arc 
many  strong  currents  about  it,  and  a  reef  extends  from  a  rock 
west  of  it  to  Umnak. 

From  this  time  to  1800  the  Four  Craters  remained  active. 
The  crater  of  Amak  was  unquiet. 

1802.  Makushin  emitted  flames  with  great  vigor.  Shocks  of 
earthquake  were  felt  in  Unalashka, 

18 1 2.  The  Sarycheff  volcano  in  Atka  was  in  violent  eruption. 
The  earthquakes  were  most  violent,  and  terrified  the  in- 
habitants. 

181 7.  Yunaska  smoked  in  April.  Upon  Umnak  a  tremendous 
earthquake  occurred,  with  a  violent  southwest  storm.  One 
of  the  north  peaks  emitted  clouds  of  ashes  and  smoke. 
At  daybreak  the  ashes  covered  the  soil,  from  twelve  to 
twenty  inches  thick.     A   small  river  near  the  factory  was 


I 


GEOLOGY  AND  MINERAL  KESOURCES. 


469 


1817.  filled  with  them,  and  contained  no  more  fish  for  a  year. 
Some  of  the  ashes,  and  stones  even,  are  said  ♦o  have 
reached  Unahishka  and  I'nimak.  A  village  on  the  northeast 
end  of  Ihnnak,  near  Deep  Hay.  was  covered  by  immense 
stones  and  ashes.  The  inhabitants  were  fortunately  absent 
at  the  Pri'byloff  Islands.  They  built  a  new  villaj:;e  on  a 
spot  which  had  been  under  water  before  the  earthquake.  A 
previously  navigable  channel  was  filled  up  with  the  stones 
ejected  during  the  eruption. 

1818.  An  earthquake  occurred  in  the  vicinity  of  Makushin,  and 
great  changes  are  said  to  have  taken  place  in  Amatignak. 

1 8 19.  Mount  Wrangell  emitted  fire,  and  the  Redoubt  volcano  of 
Cook's  Inlet  smoked. 

1820.  Uogosl6va  smoked. 

1824.  Shishaldin  emitted  flames,  and  a  mighty  eruption  took 
place  on  Yunaska. 

1825.  On  the  loth  of  March  subterranean  detonations  were 
heard  in  Unimak,  and  as  far  as  Unahishka.  On  the  north- 
east side  of  Isanotski  a  new  crater  broke  forth.  In  five 
or  six  places  flames  and  smoke  poured  out.  At  noon  the 
darkness  of  night  reigned,  even  in  Walrus  Village  forty-five 
miles  away.  Black  ashes  covered  the  peninsula  of  Aliaska 
as  far  as  Pdvlofl"  Bay.  At  the  same  time  a  torrent  of  water 
burst  out  of  the  south  side  of  the  mountain,  carrying  pumice 
and  ashes  with  it,  and  covering  a  strip  of  country  ten  miles 
wide  ;  even  the  sea  continued  muddy  until  late  in  the 
autumn. 

1826.  Further  disturbances  took  place  en  T'Tnimak,  and  ashes  fell 
on  the  nth  of  October.  In  June  two  earthquakes  shook 
Unahishka. 

1827.  From  this  time  until  1829,  Shishaldin  and  Pogrumnoi 
volcanoes  emitted  fire.  Koniushi  and  Kanaga  smoked,  while 
in  June  an  earthquake  was  felt  on  Copper  Island. 

1828.  Little  Sitkin,  Akhiin,  Akutan,  Tanak-Angunakh,  Atka, 
Koniushi,  Goreloi,  and  Shishaldin  smoked.  The  same  dis- 
turbances continued  for  two  years. 

1830.  Korovi'n  and  Atka  smoked. '  An  eruption  occurred  on 
Yunaska  and  the  southwest  end  of  Umnak.  In  November 
a  fearful   noise   was   heard    through   the   fog   on    Unimak. 


i,  i\ 


\    ^ 


isii 


a  If 


:.        f 

:     K-  C 

i  ih 
1 ,11 


', 


I 


470 


GEOLOGY  AND  MINERAL  RESOURCES. 


1830.  When  the  mist  cleared  away,  Isanotski  was  black,  all  the 
snow  had  disappeared,  and  flames  shot  forth  from  fissures  on 
the  north,  west,  and  south.  On  the  north  side,  the  flames  ap- 
peared three  times  a  minute,  followed  by  a  stronger  burst  ot 
flames  and  smoke.  In  March,  1831,  the  fissures  had  closed, 
except  the  northern  one,  where  a  mass  of  red-hot  lava  was 
long  visible.  Bilberry  bu:.'.cs,  before  unknown,  are  growing 
in  the  stratum  of  ashes  thrown  out  by  Pogriimnoi.  After 
the  eruption,  fish  floated  dead  on  the  water,  and  shell-fish 
disappeared.  Since  that  time  other  craters,  formerly  active, 
have  become  quiet. 

1836.  An  earthquake  occurred  on  the  Prfbyloft"  Islands,  on  the 
2d  of  April.  The  shock  was  so  severe  that  people  could  not 
stand  erect,  and  was  preceded  by  a  lord  noise.  The  rocks 
were  split  and  broken  in  many  places,  and  the  same  phe- 
nomena occurred  with  less  violence  in  August. 

1838.  Shishaldin  emitted  fire,  and  smoke  arose  from  three  points. 
The  Four  Craters,  Makushin,  Akutan,  Mount  Veniami'noff, 
and  lYivloff  volcano  smoked. 

1843.  On  the  23d  of  November,  Mount  St.  Helen's  broke  out. 

1844.  Korovin  and  Makushin  smoked  lightly. 

1854.    Light  shocks  occurred  in  the  Kaviak  peninsula. 

1862.    Similar  disturbances  were  reported  by  the  natives, 

1865.  When  the  vessels  of  the  telegraph  fleet  passed  through 
Ihiimak  Pass  in  September,  Shishaldin  was  smoking,  and 
light  was  observed  at  night  in  the  direction  of  Akhiin,  and 
Akutan.     Makushin  was  also  active. 

1867.  In  August  a  shock  of  earthquake  occurred  on  the  Lower 
Yukon,  and  was  felt  at  the  Mission.  Amak  Island  had  lost 
its  activity  entirely. 

The  records  of  these  phenomena  are  exceedingly  incom- 
plete ;  but  that  they  are  less  frequent  and  less  severe  than 
formerly,  there  can  be  no  doubt. 


The  coal-bearing  strata  of  Queen  Charlotte's  Island,  about 
which  some  doubt  has  existed,  are  proved,  by  fossils  in  the  pos- 
session of  Professor  Whitney,  to  be  of  Cretaceous  age.  Tlic 
same  formation  doubtless  extends  northward  into  the  Alexan- 
der Archipelago,  and  its  extent  has  not  been  determined.     Tiic 


GEOLOGY  AND  MINERAL  RESOURCES. 


471 


ick,  all  the 
fissures  on 
flames  ap- 
r  burst  ol 
lad  closed, 
t  lava  was 
c  growing 
loi.  After 
1  shell-fish 
irly  active, 

ids,  on  the 
;  could  not 
The  rocks 
same  phc- 

irec  points, 
eniami'noff, 

oke  out. 


es. 

through 
ving,  and 
chiin,  and 

the  Lower 
id  had  lost 

gly  incom- 
evere  than 


md,  about 
n  the  pos- 
agc.  The 
e  Alexan- 
[led.     The 


rocks  near  Sitka  are  clay  slates,  argillite,  grauwackc,  and  a  hard 
conglomerate  or  grit.  In  Noquashi'nski  Bay  finely  crystallized 
white  marble  occurs  ;  sienitic  granite  is  found  near  Deep  Lake, 
and  in  St.  John's  Bay  Mr.  Blake  found  fine  black  shales  and 
friable  sandstones,  with  fragments  of  bituminous  c(jal,  among  the 
detritus.  Near  the  northwest  end  of  Deep  Lake  are  springs 
with  a  temperature  of  120°  h'ahrenheit.  They  contain  carbonate  of 
lime  and  sulphur  in  considerable  quantities.  The  rocks  of  Mount 
Vostovia  are  sienitic.  On  the  shores  of  Barlow's  Bay,  Admiralty 
Island  mica  schists,  with  a  vertical  dip,  enclose  quartz  veins  con- 
taining iron  pyrites.  At  the  head  of  Lynn  Canal  fragments  of 
finely  crystalline  white  marble  were  found  with  sienitc  and  slate. 

Granite  and  metamorphic  rocks  arc  abundant  along  the  coast 
from  Cape  Spencer  to  Cape  St.  Elias.  At  the  former  point 
Tertiary  strata  have  been  reported. 

The  southeast  shore  of  Kenai  is  metamorphic.  The  shores 
of  Chugachik  Bay  and  Cook's  Inlet  on  the  east  side,  as  far  as  tlie 
Kiiknu  River,  are  Tertiary,  containing  beds  of  coal.  North  of  the 
Kaknu  River,  clay  slates  with  veins  of  gold-bearing  diorite  occur. 
In  the  alluvium  of  that  river  gold  has  been  detected.  The  rocks 
of  Kadiak  are  chiefly  metamorphic,  trachytic,  and  chloritic  slates 
with  veins  of  quartz.  Tertiary  sandstones  also  occur  with  fossils. 
Volcanic  and  metamorphic  rocks,  porphyry,  black  Jurassic  shales, 
and  Tertiary  beds,  occur  on  the  adjacent  shores  of  Aliaska.  Far- 
ther west  the  Tertiary  rocks  are  more  extensive,  and  frequently 
contain  lignite  and  fossil  wood.  They  have  been  noted  upon 
I'igalda,  Akhun,  Unahishka,  I'-mnak,  7\mchilka,  and  St.  Paul's. 
The  islands  of  Akutan,  Bogosluva,  Four  Crnters,  Yunaska, 
Amukhta,  St.  George,  Semi-sopochnoi,  Kecska,  Amak,  and 
Agattu,  are  supposed  to  be  entirely  volcanic.  Unalashka,  Amlia, 
Atka,  Amchi'tka,  and  Attu  also  contain  metamorphic  rocks  or 
porphyry.  L"ttle  Si'tkin  is  the  most  western  volcano.  The  Com- 
ni  inder's  Isla-ids  are  volcanic  and  metamorphic  ;  native  copper 
has  been  found  on  the  more  eastern,  from  v.diich  it  takes  its 
name.  The  St.  Matthew  group  ami  St.  I.nwrence  are  volcanic 
and  metamorphic.  Granitic  rocks  arc  known  to  exist  on  the 
Kuskoquim.  Marine  Miocene  strata  occupy  a  small  basin  on 
the  Yukon  near  Nulato.  In  one  place  near  the  Shaman  Moun- 
tain is  a  small  outcrop  of  lignite  and  shale  much  metamorph.osed. 


!?;i; 


•;»** 


472 


GEOLOGY  AND  MINERAL  RESOURCES. 


m' 


ill! 


^^m 


Underneath  these  He  gray  Miocene  sandstones  with  vegetable 
remains  extending  to  the  sea-coast.  All  these  rocks  are  much 
bent,  contorted,  and  metamorphosed  in  some  localities,  from 
the  intrusion  of  trachytic  and  basaltic  rocks.  Quartz  veins  cut 
the  strata  in  many  places.  Underneath  the  sandstones  arc 
metamorphosed  quartzites  which  compose  the  greater  proportion 
of  the  strata  in  the  Yukon  Valley,  below  the  mouth  of  the  Porcu- 
pine. That  portion  of  the  country  near  the  delta  is  mostly 
alluvium  with  metamorphic  rocks.  From  St.  Michael's  Island, 
which  contains  an  extinct  cater,  to  the  Yukon,  extends  a  belt  of 
basaltic  rocks  containing  olivine,  and  of  recent  (geological)  age. 
The  natives  have  a  tradition  that  St.  Michael's  has  been  thrice 
submerged. 

Cape  Denbigh  is  said  to  be  porphyritic.  The  rocks  near 
Grantley  Harbor  are  quartzite  and  granitic.  In  Kotzebue  Sound, 
basalt,  metamorphic  rocks,  granite,  and  alluvium  are  the  preva- 
lent strata.  Granitic  rocks  occur  only  once  on  the  Yukon  near 
the  Rapids.  Obsidian  is  occasionally  found,  and  conglomerate 
beds  exist  in  one  or  two  places.  The  character  of  the  Arctic 
coast  has  already  been  mentioned. 

Any  account  of  Alaska  would  be  incomplete  which  did  not 
include  a  mention  of  the  remarkable  hot  and  mineral  spring 
which  are  so  n dimerous.  Those  of  Sitka  have  been  already  men- 
tioned. Whitby  records  the  existence  of  hot  saline  springs  be- 
low high-water  mark  near  Sitka.  In  Parenosa  Bay,  opposite 
Linga  Island,  on  the  south  coast  of  Aliaska,  are  several  hot 
springs.  Others  are  situated  on  Amagat  Island,  near  Aliaskn, 
and  still  others  in  Port  Moller,  on  the  north  side  of  the  peninsula. 
A  lake  of  water  containing  sulphur  in  solution  exist."-  on  I'nimak, 
Hot  marshes  are  found  near  Pogrumnoi  volcano.  Numeroib 
boiling  .springs  on  the  northeast  side  of  Akutan  form  a  small 
rivulet,  and  an  extinct  crater  is  filled  with  water  of  a  bitter  taste. 
On  a  small  island  southeast  of  Akhun,  hot  springs  are  found 
between  tide-marks.  In  Unahishka,  near  Captain's  Harbor,  a 
thermal  spring  exists,  with  a  temperature  of  94°  Fahrenheit,  con- 
taining sulphur  in  solution.  Noises  which  sound  like  the  reports 
of  cannon  are  often  heard,  and  have  been  mistaken  for  coniinj:; 
ves.scls.  The  natives  have  a  tradition  that  long  ago  the  moun- 
tains fought  with  each  other,  and  Mdkushin  remained  victor. 


Ma 

these 

water 

Near 

to  luk 

them. 

Upc 

of  som 

hat  at 

tempei 

I    upon  ] 

at  the 

[    hottom 

Sulphi; 

[    steam, 

and  wi 

tween  ' 

the  wa 

rich,  an 

contras 

i'lg.  th( 

iuva  ro 

Ther 

in;j^  spr 

Aleuts 

ing  con 

highest 

\'ery 

A  lal 

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As  w 

their  ve 

plutonic 

in  the  w 

r.coiio 

tioned  k 

In  it  are 

reiiorted 

known  1 


1\ 


GEOLOGY  AND  MINERAL  RESOURCES. 


473 


Many  hot  springs  exist  in  a  small  valley  of  Umnak.  One  of 
these  rises  two  feet  and  falls  again,  four  times  an  hour.  The 
water  is  boiling,  and  there  is  no  perceptible  opening  in  the  soil. 
Near  Deep  Bay  are  several  springs  ranging  from  212"^  Fahrenheit 
to  lukewarm.  The  Aleuts  are  accustomed  to  bathe  in  some  of 
them. 

Upon  the  island  of  Atka  many  such  springs  occur.  The  water 
of  some  of  them  contains  lime  and  sulphur,  but  is  less  bitter  than 
liat  at  Sitka.  These  are  five  miles  from  Korovin  Bay,  and  their 
temperature  is  about  167"  Fahrenheit.  At  a  greater  altitude, 
upon  Koni  volcano  are  found  mud  craters  two  feet  in  diameter 
at  the  top,  of  a  funnel  shape,  diminishing  to  five  inches  at  the 
bottom.  They  are  frequently  full  of  mud  in  a  state  of  ebullition. 
Sulphurous  odors  and  subterranean  noises,  like  the  escape  of 
steam,  are  always  noticeable.  If  a  stick  is  thrust  into  the  ground 
and  withdrawn,  sulphurous  vapors  arise  with  great  force.  Be- 
tween Korovin  and  Klucheff  volcanoes  is  a  verdant  valley.  Here 
the  warmth  arising  from  the  hot  springs  renders  the  vegetation 
rich,  and  this,  with  the  aljundance  of  flowers,  presents  a  marked 
contrast  to  the  bare  and  sterile  flanks  of  the  volcanoes.  Ascend- 
ing, the  traveller  leaves  perpetual  summer  for  bare  aixd  forbidding 
lava  rocks  and  eternal  snow. 

There  are  nany  hot  springs  upon  the  island  of  Adakh.  Boil- 
ing springs  on  Kanaga  have  been  used  for  cooking  food  by  the 
Aleuts  from  time  immemorial.  Goreloi  consists  of  a  vast  smok- 
ing cone  eighteen  miles  around.  It  is  supposed  to  be  one  of  the 
highest  in  the  archipelago. 

Very  active  hot  springs  e.xist  on  Si'tignak  Island. 

A  lake  on  Beaver  Island  of  the  Pn'byloff  group  is  said  to  be 
strongly  impregnated  with  nitre. 

As  we  may  turn  to  the  coasts  of  Alaska  to  study  glaciers,  at 
their  very  sides  we  may  also  give  our  attention  to  exhibitions  of 
plutonic  force  and  volcanic  activity  which  are  almost  equal  to  any 
in  the  world. 

F.cououiic  Geology. — The  most  valuable  of  the  previously  men- 
tioned formations,  from  an  economic  point  of  view,  is  the  Tertiary. 
In  it  are  contained  those  beds  of  coal  which  have  been  so  often 
rcjiorted  on  the  northwest  coast.  The  following  is  a  list  of  the 
known  localities  up  to  date  of  writing :    Port  Gardner;  Hood's 


U 


1*, 


<  !t  *  t  3  S;  S 


I!  iii'^ 


474 


GEOLOGY  AND   MINERAL  RESOURCES. 


Bay,  Admiralty  Island  (good,  bituminous,  used  by  the  Saginaw 
in  1868)  ;  Hamilton   Harbor,  on  the  east  side  of  Kake  Strait  (a 
vein  of  good  bituminous  coal  opened  here  in  July,  1868)  ;  Kriiz- 
noff  13ay,  Admiralty  Island;   Kuiu   Island;    KuprianofV  Island; 
Port  Camden,  Kake  Strait  (a  six-inch  vein  reported  in  hard  rock, 
with   a  southerly  dip  of  35")  ;  St.  John's    Bay,    Baninoff  Island, 
(fragments  in  debris  of  a  glacier  ;  recent  reports  state  that  the 
vein  has  been  discovered,  and  the  coal  successfully  used  on  a 
United  States  steamer)  ;    Coal  Harbor,  Unga  Island   (examined 
by  the  writer  in   1865  ;  the  coal  is  of  poor  quality,  in  thin  veins, 
much   mixed    with   slate    and  silicified  wood  ;    quite  valueless) ; 
south  coast  of  Aliaska  ("  Black  lignites,"  Krman)  ;  Cape  Beau- 
fort, Arctic  coast  (a  small  vein  of  true  Carboniferous  coal) ;  Akhiin 
(coal  said  to  occur  by  Lutkc)  ;  Unalashka  (near  Captain's  Harbor, 
small  lignite  veins,  according  to  Veniami'noff)  ;  Atka  (lignite  of 
poor  quality  found  near  Sand  Bay) ;  Amchitka  (lignite,  Grewingk) ; 
Wrangell    Harbor   (coal    reported,  of  good  quality,  by  General 
Hallcck) ;  and   finally  Cook's  I-ilet.      In  the  latter  locality  arc 
found  ilie  most  promising  deposits.     North  of  Cape  Stari'chkoft", 
the  coal  is  found  in  two  parallel  layers.     They  are  variously  re- 
ported as  from  eighteen  inches  to  seven  feet  in  thickness,  and 
are   found  from   thirty-six   to  sixty   feet   below   the  top   of  the 
bank.     Farther  to  the  north  a  third  layer  appears.     They  con- 
tinue nearly  to  Cape  Nenilchik,  with  a  north-northeast  dip,  and 
appear  again  on  the  northern  side  of  the  cape,  and  then   con- 
tinue, first  with  a  south-southeast  dip,   and  afterwards  horizon- 
tally, to  the   mouth   of  a  small  stream.     The  coal   is  Tertiary ; 
and,   like   most  Tertiary  coals,   is  inferior  to  the  Carboniferous 
coals   both   in   quality   and    thickness   of  seams.     The   annexed 
table  will  show  at  a  glance  the  comparative  value  and  compo- 
sition of  the  coals  of  the  different  formations  on  the  west  coast 
of  America,  and  the  best  Carboniferous  coals  of  Pennsylvania  and 
England. 

The  table  shows  at  a  glance,  better  than  any  description  could 
do,  the  superior  quality  of  the  Cook's  Inlet  coal,  not  only  over  all 
the  Miocene  coals,  but  also  over  all  the  Cretaceous  coals  of  the 
Pacific  slope.* 

*  The  analyses  of  the  Alaska  coal  are  due  to  Professor  J.  S.  Ncwberrv  of  the  School 
of  Mines,  Colunibia  College,  New  ^'ork,  and  State  geologi^st  of  Ohio.  I'rofLSSur 
Newberry  is  excelled  by  none  in  his  knowledge  of  the  Tertiary  coal-bearing  depnsits 


ic  Saginaw 
vc  Strait  (a 
68)  ;  Kriiz- 
lolV  Island  ; 
1  hard  rock, 
iioff  Island, 
Ltc  that  the 

used  on  a 
1  (examined 
1  thin  veins, 

valueless) ; 
Cape  Beau- 
oal) ;  Akhiin 
ill's  Harbor, 
a  (lignite  of 

Grewingk) ; 

by  General 

locality  arc 
;  Stari'chkoii", 
variously  rc- 
ickness,  and 

top   of  the 
They  con- 

ast  dip,  and 
then   con- 

ds  horizon- 

s  Tertiary ; 

arboniferoib 
ic    annexed 

and  eompo- 
west  coast 
ylvania  and 

iption  could 

only  over  all 

coals  of  llii; 


GEOLOGY  AND  MINERAL  RESOURCES. 


Analyses  of  Coal. 


475 


Locality  of  the  coal. 

1 

2-34 
4.00 
2  00 

2-34 
0.99 

Fixed 
carbon. 

Volatile 

combustible 

matter. 

Ash. 

a, 
p 

0.23 

Character. 

liituminous. 

Hitmninous. 

Cannel. 

.Anthracite. 

Hituininous. 

u 
^ 

riftshiirg,  Pennsylvania     . 
Ornisby,  IVimsylvania  . 

Kentucky 

i.eliigli.  Pennsylvania    . 
.\e\veastle,  England  . 

55.82 
66.56 
5601 
88.05 
61.70 

34-31 

26.93 

37-S9 

2.94 

33-55 

7.16 
2.50 
4.10 
6.66 
3-75 

5 

D 

J 

n 
v 

•J 

Nanaimo,  Vancouver  Island 
Hcliingham  Hay 

Moiuit    Diahhn    Calilornia,   best 
"  black  diamond  "  . 

2. 98 
8.30 

14.69 

2009 
j  11.60 

1    9-45 
1.25 

46.31 

45-(«) 
46.S4 

32.16 
33-26 

33-89 

iS-SS 
1266 

4-58 

> 
p 

? 

I.ignitic. 

Lignitic. 

I.ignitic. 

y 

'J 

7, 

Coose  Hay,  Oregon  .         .         . 
t'arbon  Stali(jn,  |  ■,■,     .^    ,,  .,        , 
Weber  River,      (  I'^^cihc  Ka.lro.ad 

Cook's  Inlet,  Alaska     . 

41-98 
51.67 
26.21 
49.89 

32.59 
27.68 
58.32 
39-S7 

5-34 
6.17 

364 

7  82 

p 

2.90 
2.40 
1.20 

I.ignitic. 
I.ignitic. 
I.ignitic. 
Lignitic. 

Anthracite  has  been  several  times  reported  from  various  parts 
of  Alaska.  It  is  probable  that  the  specimens  collected  may  owe 
their  quality  to  local  metamorphism  of  the  rocks  by  heat  rather 
than  to  the  general  character  of  any  large  deposit.  The  Cook's 
Inlet  coal,  it  will  be  noted,  contains  only  0.37  per  cent  less  com- 
bustible matter,  and  only  0.66  per  cent  more  ash  than  good  Pitts- 
burg bituminous  coal,  which  difterence  is  fully  made  up  by  the 
1,09  per  cent  more  water  which  exists  in  the  latter.  The  amount 
of  sulphur  is  less  than  in  either  of  the  two  best  Tertiary  coals  on 
the  line  of  the  Pacific  Railroad,  and  the  amount  of  moisture  is  less 
than  in  any  other  American  coal  tabulated. 

The  discoverers  of  these  outcrops  of  coal  must  recollect,  how- 
!ver,  that  the  value  of  coal  is  not  due  to  its  quality  alone.  Com- 
mercially speaking,  a  vein  of  coal  less  than  three  feet  thick  (of 
clear  coal)  is  of  very  little  value,  except  for  local  use.  'I'he  dip  of 
the  strata,  its  fault.?  or  foldings,  the  solid  or  crumbling  character 
tifthc  superincumbent  strata,  tne  distance  from  a  market,  and  the 
facilities  for  mining,  shipping,  and  transportation.  —  all  these  are 
as  important  in  determining  the  value  of  a  deposit  as  the  char- 
acter of  the  coal  itself. 


rvof  the  School  ■  ilthc  United  States,  and  says  :  "  This  coal  is  fully  equal  to  any  found  on  the  west 
)hio.  rrolcssoi  H  iMjt,  nut  excepting  those  of  Vancouver  Island  and  Hellinghain  liay."  Fur  the  use 
icaring  deposits   |  "I  the  analyses  1  am  indebted  to  the  Smithsonian  Institution, 


;   ! 


Ill 


'aa 


476 


GEOLOGY  AND  MINERAL  RESOURCES. 


M 


m 


"■i 


1   I  'f 


The  existence  of  deposits  of  coal  of  permanent  value,  in  Alaska, 
though  very  probable,  can  only  be  determined  by  a  thorough  ex- 
amination, and  is  yet  to  be  proved. 

Amber  occurs  extensively  in  these  beds  associated  with  lignite. 
It  is  common  in  the  lignite  deposits  on  the  peninsula  of  Aliaska, 
and  I  have  obtained  it  from  the  alluvium  in  the  delta  of  the 
Yukon.  It  is  also  found  in  the  vicinity  of  most  of  the  Tertiary 
coal  deposits  on  the  Fox  Islands,  and  is  an  article  of  ornament 
with  the  natives,  who  carve  it  into  rude  beads.  Grewingk  says  that 
the  natives  collect  it  at  Amber  Bay,  Aliaska,  and  sell  it  to  the 
Kadiak  traders.  It  is  also  found  in  the  Tertiary  strata  of  Kadiak, 
A  small  lake  among  the  mountains  of  Unalashka  contains  an 
amber-bearing  island.  On  the  island  of  Umnak,  near  Yagorkoti- 
ski  Village,  is  a  steep  bank  of  friable  material.  The  natives 
spread  a  walrus-skin  between  two  boats  at  the  foot  of  the  bank 
and  dislodge  the  earth,  which  falls  upon  the  skin,  and  from  this 
ifSris  much  amber  is  obtained.  It  is  also  said  to  be  found  on 
the  Kuskoquim. 

Among  the  other  mineral  products  of  Alaska,  probably  of  this 
age,  is  petroleum.  This  is  found  floating  on  the  surface  of  a  lake 
near  the  bay  of  Katmai,  Aliaska  Peninsula.  It  is  of  the  specific 
gravity  of  25°  (Bi^aume),*  quite  odorless,  and  in  its  crude  state 
an  excellent  lubricator  for  machinery  of  any  kind. 

The  beds  of  white  marble  near  Sitka  and  in  Lynn  Canal,  if 
uniformly  of  as  good  quality  as  the  specimens  obtained  by  the 
United  States  Coast  Survey  officers,  will  prove  of  great  value. 
The  natives  have  long  been  in  the  habit  of  carving  images, 
labrets,  &c.,  of  this  material. 

Gold  and  silver  occur  in  lit  .'ted  quantities  in  Alaska.  The 
latter  is  sometimes  associated  with  native  copper. 

Talcose  and  chloritic  slate,  with  veins  of  quartz,  abound  in  the 
island  of  Kadiak.  An  analysis  of  specimens  of  these  rocks  by 
Dr.  Newberry  shows  only  about  $  i  per  ton  in  gold  and  silver. 
He  says  in  regard  to  them,  however :  "  These  specimens  come 
from  a  system  which  at  other  points  is  probably  much  richer. 
The  mineralogical  character  of  the  specimens  is  precisely  that  ol 
the  most  productive  gold-bearing  veins  known,  although  silver 
will  not  be  found  in  quantity  in  such  an  association  of  minerals." 

*  Ncvvliony,  Report  on  Alaska  Minerals  to  the  Smithsonian  Institution. 


t  .; 


Itisn 

first  c 

rocks, 

j4-atioii 

I  \-ial  w 

Am 

aflorck 

I  of  gol 

lead  a 

The 

territo 

to  ex  is 

Tahco 

miners 

found': 

vium  0 

been  \> 

Gold 

arc  situ 

cents  t( 

was  on 

foot  of 

(Hans  li 

Times, 

Nativ 

been  ob 

oecurs  i 

The  ori 

natives, 

a  worn 

metal  e: 

iloiibt. 

noil",  an( 

Island  ci 

bonate  c 

the  snip 

form  of  ( 

Archipe 

in  the  pc 


GEOLOGY  AND  MINERAL  RESOURCES. 


477 


.le,  in  Alaska, 
thorough  ox- 

.  with  lignite. 

la  of  Alidska, 

delta  of  the 

the  Tertiary 

:  of  ornament 

ngk  says  that 

sell  it  to  the 

ata  of  Kadiak, 

I  contains  an 

:ar  Yagorkoti'- 

The    natives 

t  of  the  bank 

and  from  this 

•  be  found  on 

-obably  of  this 

rface  of  a  lake 

f  the  specific 

ts  crude  state 

ynn  Canal,  if 
tained  by  the 
great  value, 
rving   images, 

Alaska.     The 

bound  in  the 
icse  rocks  1)}' 
d  and  silver. 
;cimens  come 
much  richer, 
xisely  that  ol 
though  sih-cr 
of  minerals. 

Institution. 


It  is  not  impossible  that  the  gold-bearing  alluvium  of  Cook's  Inlet, 
first  examined  by  Doroshin,  was  originally  derived  from  similar 
rocks,  especially  as  the  island  of  Kadiak  is  apparently  a  prolon- 
gation of  the  peninsula  of  Kenai,  on  which  the  gold-bearing  allu- 
vial was  foiuid. 

Another  analysis  of  this  quartz,  by  Dr.  John  Hcwston,  Jr., 
afforded  ;p4. 15  in  silver  per  two  thousand  pounds,  with  a  trace 
of  gold.  These  specimens  were  associated  with  sulphurcts  of 
lead  and  iron. 

The  gold  deposits  of  the  Stiki'ne  River  are  all  situated  in  British 
territory.  They  are  only  worked  in  the  placers,  but  gold  is  said 
to  exist  in  quartz  veins  in  the  vicinity.  The  head-waters  of  the 
Tahco  River  have  afforded  coarse  gold  to  the  few  enterprising 
miners  who  have  penetrated  there.  Gold  in  small  quantities  is 
ibiind'in  the  sands  of  the  Yukon,  near  Fort  Yukon.  The  allu- 
vium of  the  Kaknu  River  is  a  yellowish  clay,  and  has  not  yet 
hecn  worked  by  any  practical  miners. 

Gold  has  been  found  in  the  bay  on  which  the  Taku  villages 
are  situated,  and  in  the  streams  of  the  vicinity.  It  averages  five 
cents  to  the  pan  in  scales  or  small  nuggets.  The  richest  deposit 
was  on  the  main  stream,  four  or  five  miles  from  the  bay.  at  the 
foot  of  a  waterfall,  said  to  be  one  hundred  feet  high.  The  In- 
dians here  were  "  Kakes,"  and  said  to  be  unfriendly.  (Alaska 
Times,  September  25,  1869.) 

Native  copper,  occasionally  associated  with  silver,  has  long 
been  obtained  from  the  natives  of  the  Atna  or  Copper  River.  It 
oeciHS  in  rounded  masses  sometimes  weighing  thirty-six  pounds. 
The  original  locality  is  unknown  and  carefully  concealed  by  the 
natives,  with  whom  it  is  an  article  of  trade.  The  specimens  have 
a  worn  appearance,  as  if  from  the  bed  of  a  stream.  That  this 
metal  exists  in  large  quantities  in  this  vicinity,  there  can  be  no 
doui)t.  Metallic  copper  is  reported  from  Unalashka  by  Veniami- 
noft",  and  has  been  obtained  from  the  north  end  of  Admiralty 
Island  and  from  Unga  Island  by  the  Russians.  The  blue  car- 
bonate occurs  on  the  Kuskoquim  and  near  Cape  Romanzoff,  and 
the  sulphurets  on  the  north  coast  of  Aliaska.  Mercury,  in  the 
form  of  cinnabar,  exists  in  the  Cretaceous  strata  of  the  Alexander 
Archipelago.  The  locality  is  unknown,  but  fine  specimens  were 
in  the  possession  of  the  Russians. 


\.\ 


V    ' 


ill 


ii.  III 


1, , 


>      II 


I  ill  I: 


478 


GEOLOGY  AND  MINERAL  RESOURCES. 


Lead,  in  the  shape  of  galena,  is  reported  from  Whale  Bay,  about 
twenty  miles  south  of  Sitka,  and  near  St.  Paul's,  Kadiak.     It  has| 
been  found  only  in  small  quantities. 

Iron  exists  in  many  parts  of  the  territory,  but  no  valuable  de-l 
posits,  fit  for  working,  have  yet  been  noticed.  The  titanic  and 
magnetic  oxides,  in  the  form  of  sand,  have  been  reported  from  the 
island  of  St.  Paul.  The  micaceous  oxide  is  used  as  a  pigment  by 
the  Yukon  Indians.  A  red  ferruginous  clay  is  used  by  the  same 
tribes  in  decorating  all  wooden  articles. 

Graphite,  or  plumbago,  is  reported  from  Kadiak,  Seguam,  Ka- 
chi'daguk  Point,  Aliaska,  and  by  La  Perouse  from  Litiiya  Bay. 

Black  oxide  of  manganese  has  been  received  from  the  Kusko-| 
quim. 

Next  to  copper  and  coal,  sulphur  is  probably  the  most  valuable 
mineral  of  the  territory.     It  has  long  been  in  use  as  a  means  otl 
obtaining  fire  by  the  coast  tribes,  and  is  reported,  with  great 
probability,  to  exist  in  large  quantities  in  connection  with  the  I 
numerous  volcanic   peaks   and   craters  of  Alaska.     It  has  beeii| 
reported  as  existing  in  solution  in  most  of  the  hot  and  mineral 
springs  elsewhere  referred  to,  and  in  a  solid  form  in  the  following 
localities :  near  the  craters  of  the  Aliaska  volcanoes,  on  the  isl- 
and of  Kadidk  (?) ;  in  the  fissures  of  Shishaldin  on  Unimak,  an(l| 
in  large  quantities  near  Pogriimnoi  Village  on  the  same  island; 
in  a  small  crater  on  Akutan ;   in  quantities  on  a  small   islandl 
southeast  01  Akhi'in,  near  the  summit  of  Makushin  volcano;  in 
the  mud  craters  of  Atka;  and  finally  on  the  volcanic  peaks  of 
Kanaga. 

In  case  of  war,  when  the  supply  of  Sicilian  sulphur  might  be  I 
cut  off",  or  for  the  manufacture  of  blasting-powder  for  the  miners | 
of  California,  these  deposits  may  prove  of  very  considerable  value. 
The  waters  of  a  small  lake  on  Beaver  Island,  of  the  Pribyloiil 
group,  are  said  by  Veniami'noff"  to  be  strongly  impregnated  \vitii| 
another  ingredient  of  gunpowder,  namely,  nitre. 

Kaolin  occurs  on  Amchi'tka,  but  the  amount  and  exact  locality | 
are  not  recorded. 

Boulder  Island  produces,  according  to  Grewingk,  "earthcream  {'\\ 
or  edible  earth,  consisting  of  pure  gypsum  without  infusoria.' 
This  statement  needs  explanation. 

Upon  Umnak  a  good  quality  of  fire-clay  is  found  near  Yagor-I 


GEOLOGY  AND  MINERAL  RESOURCES. 


479 


:,  Scguam,  Ka-I 


koffski  Village.  The  exploration  of  the  mineral  wealth  of  Alaska 
has  hardly  begun. 

In  regard  to  precious  stones  we  have  very  little  information. 
Amethysts  are  not  uncommon  in  veins  of  quartz.  Zeolites  are 
abundant  in  the  amygdaloid  rocks  of  the  Lower  Yukon.  Tour- 
malines and  garnets  are  reported  from  Kotzebue  Sound.  Garnets 
arc  abundant  near  Fort  Simpson,  in  mica  schists.  Spinel  oc- 
curs in  a  bed  of  whitish  decomposed  volcanic  rock  on  St.  George's 
Island.  The  crystals  are  large,  but  usually  dark  and  full  of  im- 
perfections. Agates  and  carnelians  are  abundant  in  numerous 
localities,  especially  Cnga  and  the  valley  of  the  Lower  Yukon. 
I  Diamonds  have  erroneously  been  reported  from  I'nga. 

Among  Indian  carvings  I  have  seen  several  made  of  beautifully 
variegated  marble,  with  streaks  of  red,  black,  and  cream-color. 
Hypochlorite,  a  rich  green  ore  of  bismuth,  with  delicate  streaks 
of  difterent  shades,  is  commonly  used  for  ornaments  by  the  natives 
of  the  coast  from  Bering  Strait  to  Sitka.  It  somewhat  resembles 
jade  in  appearance,  and  has  been  referred  to  as  malachite  by 
ignorant  explorers. 

Wild  and  exaggerated  stories  have  found  a  place,  even  in  offi- 
cial documents,  in  regard  to  fossil  ivory.  This  is  not  uncommon 
in  many  parts  of  the  valleys  of  the  Yukon  and  Kuskoquim.  It  is 
usually  found  on  the  surface,  not  buried  as  in  Siberia,  and  all  that 
I  have  seen  has  been  so  much  injured  by  the  weather  that  it  was 
of  little  commercial  value.  It  is  usually  blackened,  split,  and  so 
fragile  as  to  break  readily  in  pieces.  A  lake  near  Nushergak,  the 
Inglutdlik  River,  and  the  Kotlo  River,  arc  noted  localities  for  this 
ivory.  It  has  also  been  found  on  the  shores  of  Kotzebue  Sound 
and  the  Arctic  coast. 

Ice  has  long  been  an  article  of  trade  with  the  Russian  Ameri- 
can Company.  The  history  of  this  trade  is  given  elsewhere.  The 
first  cargo  was  sold  for  $75  a  ton.  It  was  soon  found  that  it  was 
impossible  to  procure  ice  of  good  quality  or  in  sufficient  quan- 
tities in  the  latitude  of  Sitka.  The  establishments  were  therefore 
removed  to  a  small  island  near  Kadiak,  where  they  still  remain. 
At  various  times  vessels  have  loaded  with  ice  from  several  of 
the  glaciers  to  the  southward.  The  value  of  the  ice  imported 
into  California  in  1868  was  $28,000.  The  demand  for  it  has  not 
id  near  Ya'^or-B  Si^eatly  increased  of  late  years,  yet  it  seems  as  if,  when  once  in- 


d  exact  locality 


I  li  111 


^  + 


II I 


iiilillli' 


''■i:  II. 


480 


GEOLOGY  AND  MINERAL  RESOURCES. 


troduccd  into  Mexican,  Soutli  American,  and  Asiatic  ports,  that  a 
profitable  trade  might  be  carried  on.  At  present  ice  is  taken 
from  New  England  to  India  and  China,  a  much  greater  distance, 
requiring  a  longer  voyage  through  hot  latitudes,  and  of  course 
necessitating  a  large  waste  while  on  the  way. 

Our  knowledge  of  the  geology,  minerals,  and  rocks  of  Alaska  is 
extremely  meagre.  It  is  to  be  hoped  that  our  energetic  traders 
and  trappers  will  enable  us  to  increase  it  by  collecting  and  trans- 
mitting specimens  from  clearly  identified  localities.  In  this  way 
our  stock  of  information  may  be  rapidly  enlarged,  and  the  growth 
and  prosperity  of  the  new  Territory  promoted. 


BBl 


Drts,  that  a 
e  is  taken 
;r  distance, 
I  of  course 


)f  Alaska  is 
Stic  traders 

and  trans- 
In  this  way 

the  grow  til 


CHAPTER    VI. 

Fisheries,  Fur  Trade,  and  other  Resources  not  previously  mentioned. 

EXTENSIVE  fisheries  have  always  been  considered  by  all 
nations  as  among  the  most  jiroductive  sources  of  wealth 
and  prosperity. 

The  annual  value  of  the  British  fisheries  is  estimated  at  twenty- 
five  millions  of  dollars.  Those  of  the  I  rench  produce  three 
millions,  and  the  catch  of  American  vessels  on  the  northeast 
coast  has  an  annual  value  of  two  millions. 

The  abundance  of  fish  on  the  shores  of  Alaska  has  been  a 
matter  of  wonder  since  the  voyages  of  the  earliest  navigators. 
IJillings,  Cook,  La  Perouse,  Lulkc,  Lisiansky,  Belcher,  and  Sir 
George  Simpson,  have  all  borne  credible  witness  to  the  myriads 
of  cod,  salmon,  halibut,  and  herring,  which  are  fourd  on  the 
northwest  coast.  Eish  have  always  formed  the  largest  part  of 
the  food  of  the  native  population,  and  while  the  fisheries,  from  a 
commercial  point  of  view,  are  still  in  their  infancy,  yet  there  can 
be  no  question  as  to  their  immense  value  and  extent. 

The  principal  marine  fish  of  the  Alaskan  waters  arc  cod,  hali- 
but, herring,  tomcod,  lilikon,  and  mullet. 

The  cod  are  the  most  abundant  and  valuable  of  these  fish. 
They  arc  found  principally  on  soundings  of  about  fifty  to  twenty- 
five  fathoms.  The  most  northern  j^oint  reached  by  the  cod  is 
determined  by  the  floating  ice  line  of  Bering  Sea.  This  passes 
between  the  St.  Matthew  and  Pribyloff  groups  of  islands  and 
touches  the  mainland  in  the  vicinity  of  the  mouth  of  the  Kusko- 
quim  River.  North  of  it  there  are  no  cod.  They  extend  south- 
ward to  the  vicinity  of  the  Straits  of  Fuca,  but  arc  most  abun- 
:  (lant  from  Yakutat  Bay  north,  and  west  among  the  islands  of  the 
Kadidk  and  Aleutian  Archipelagoes.  The  cod-banks  are  gen- 
krally  in  the  vicinity  of  land,  but  off-shore  banks  have  been  found, 
though  the  fishermen  endeavor  to  keej)  the  locality  of  any  such 
31 


482 


FISHERIKS. 


!l,  ;l! 


i'' 


;l 


H! 


discovery  to  themselves.  The  fisheries  extend  clear  across  the 
Pacific,  and  abuiuhiiice  of  cod  arc  found  in  the  Ochotsk  Sea. 
In  searching  for  cod-banks,  fishermen  may  generally  take  the 
trend  of  the  adjacent  land  or  groups  of  islands,  and  the  banks, 
if  any,  will  probably  be  found  in  the  line  of  that  trend  or  in  lines 
parallel  with  it.  The  known  banks  are  of  greater  extent  than 
those  of  Newfoundland.  The  best,  as  far  as  known,  are  near  the 
Shumagin  Islands. 

The  best  Ochotsk  banks  are  near  Sakhalin  Island,  or  on  the 
west  coast  of  Kamchatka.  The  round  voyage  to  the  Och6tsk 
averages  170  days.  That  to  the  Shiimagins  is  usually  about 
1 10  days,  a  saving  of  two  months,  and  2,000  miles  in  favor  of 
the  latter,  to  say  nothing  of  the  saf^^  harbors  close  at  hand  and 
the  greater  facilities  for  obtaining  fresh  provisions,  wood,  and 
water. 

The  importation  of  Atlantic  cod  into  the  markets  of  San  Fran- 
cisco averaged  about  500  tons  in  1863  and  1864. 

The  product  of  the  Californian  fishermen  hitherto  has  been  as 
follows :  — 

120  tons,    or 

523     "        "     249,000 

1,614    "        "     706,200    " 

2,164    "        "     947.264    " 

The  immense  catch  of  1867,  of  which  more  than  one  half  was 
from  the  vicinity  of  the  Shumagins,  temporarily  overstocked  the 
market,  and  in  the  spring  of  186'^  only  twelve  vessels  were  en- 
gaged in  the  fisheries  against  twenty-three  the  previous  year, 
In  the  quarter  ending  December  31,  1868,  eight  vessels  of  2,44: 
tons,  employing  237  men,  were  engaged  in  the  fisheries.  It  is 
much  to  be  regretted  that  since  the  purchase  of  the  territory  no 
record  of  imports  of  this  kind  has  been  kept,  as  they  came  under 
the  head  of  coastwise  trade.  This  has  rendered  it  impossible  to 
obtain  full  statistics  of  the  fisheries.*  For  the  quarter  ending 
June  30,  1868,  470  cwt.  and  17  bbls.  of  fish,  were  exported  from 
San  Francisco  to  New  York.  The  value  of  cod  obtained  from 
foreign  waters   during   the   same   period   was   $119,127,   which 

*  The  catch  for  the  autumn  of  1869  is  just  reported  as  one  million  and  eighty-two 
thousand  fish.  This,  at  the  low  average  of  three  pounds  and  a  half  each,  would 
l)e  worth,  at  five  cents  a  pound,  $  189,350  in  gold. 


: 


Sll()\ 

can 
port 

AllL 

Tl 

both 

rule, 

ittci 


I  vessel, 

1864, 

?   " 

1865, 

18   " 

1866, 

23   " 

1867, 

40,000  fish. 


,  qu;ili 
\  The 
and  I 
than 
The  .^ 
I  u'liia 
No 
Naved 
were 
:.[r.  IJ 
obtain 
iiitlht. 
The 
cisco,  ; 
ITS  ha) 
near  tl 
shell-fi: 
<  t"  Coa 
ring  ai 
f'  inimem 
The 
have  n 
pound. 
Iwhcrm 
if  it  doe 
ti>herie! 
which  i 
graphic 
Cisco.  J 
reports 


FISHERIES. 


4S3 


of  San  Fran- 


to  has  been  as 


shows  abundant  room  for  the  extension  of  the  fisheries  in  Ameri- 
can waters.  The  total  amount  of  fish  from  foreign  waters  im- 
ported into  the  United  States  during  the  eight  months  ending 
August  31,  1867,  was  994,988  lbs.,  and  for  the  same  period  in 
i.SrJH,  927,540  lbs. 

There  appear  to  be  two  kinds  of  cod  in  the  Pacific  fisheries, 
hoth  of  which  are  distinct  species  from  the  Atlantic  cod.  As  a 
rule,  the  heads  are  larger  in  proportion  to  the  bodies  than  in  the 
litter.  The  first  of  the  two  kinds  referred  to  is  small,  but  of  good 
(luality,  and  appears  to  frequent  the  banks  during  the  entire  year. 
The  other  antl  larger  species  arrives  on  the  banks  about  May  loth, 
and  leaves  them  about  September  loth.  These  are  a  I'.ttle  smaller 
than  the  Ochotsk  fish,  but  dry  heavier,  averaging  about  four  pounds. 
The  Shumagin  fish  are  the  best  in  quality,  and  most  of  the  Cali- 
I  tiiian  fishermen  have  abandoned  the  Ochotsk  for  these  fisheries. 

No  tongues  and  sounds,  and  but  little  cod  liver  oil,  has  been 
sived  by  these  fishermen  as  yet.  Ten  thousand  gallons  of  oil 
were  reported  in  1866.  The  Shumagin  fishermen,  according  to 
Mr.  Davidson,  from  whose  report  many  of  the  above  facts  were 
obtained,  are  in  the  habit  of  running  into  Coal  Harbor  Saturday 
night,  and  remaining  there  during  Sunday. 

The  supply  of  bait  has  been  sometimes  taken  from  San  Fran- 
cisco, at  a  cost  of  about  $100  for  a  onc-hundred-ton  vessel.  Oth- 
ers have  relied  on  halibut  and  sculpins.  There  are  many  places 
near  the  banks  where  the  dredge  would  bring  up  abundance  of 
shell-fish  excellent  for  bait.  This  is  the  case  in  the  shallow  part 
of  Coal  Harbor,  and  in  the  harbor  of  St.  Pauls,  Kadiak.  Her- 
ring and  other  small  fish  in  their  season  might  be  obtained  in 
immense  quantities  at  slight  expense  for  the  same  purpose. 

The  prices  of  salt  codfish  of  first  quality,  in  San  Francisco, 
1  have  ranged  from  thirteen  cents  to  seven  and  a  half  in  gold,  per 
pound.  It  is  not  probable  that  they  will  continue  so  high.  These 
fishermen,  like  other  Californians,  are  in  haste  to  make  money,  and 
if  it  docs  not  come  in  as  fast  as  they  wish,  arc  apt  to  disparage  the 
lishcries.  They  arc  not  content  with  the  small  and  steady  gains 
which  satisfy  Eastern  fishermen.  I  saw  recently  in  the  tele- 
j  graphic  column  of  a  newspaper  the  following  item.     "  San  P'ran- 

cisco.   Arrived,  schr. with  35,000  codfish,  and  discouraging 

[reports  of  the  fisheries  "  !     Prudence  and  care  arc  not  extensively 


>   I 


il\  \ 


f 

-«»'£ 

i 

^l 

^        lii 

484 


FISHERIES. 


consulted  ill  business  on  the  West  Coast,  and  great  expectations 
arc  the  rule. 

Cod  have  been  taken  at  Nootka,  Sitka,  Litiiya  Bay,  Yakutat 
Bay,  Chugach  Gulf,  Cook's  Inlet,  through  the  whole  Aleutian 
chain,  liristol  Bay,  and  the  Pn'byloft'  Islands.  In  1865  and  1866 
the  Western  Union  Telegraph  vessels  obtained  abundance  of  fine 
end   in  Coal   Harbor,  Unga  Island,  and  off  Unimak,  in  August. 

The  weather  on  the  fishing  banks  from  June  to  the  middle  of 
August  is  rainy  and  foggy,  with  southeast  winds.  From  that  time 
until  the  latter  part  of  September  northwest  winds  and  fine  weather 
are  usual.     Lat^jr  in  the  season  heavy  southerly  gales  occur. 

The  halibut  are  smaller  than  those  of  the  Eastern  fisheries,  but 
near  Sitka  and  along  the  coast  they  have  been  taken  from  three 
to  five  hundred  pounds  in  weight.  They  are  not  found  north  of 
the  ice  line  in  Bering  Sea,  except,  perhaps,  in  summer. 

The  herring,  which  resemble  those  of  the  North  Sea  of  Europe, 
arrive  in  incalculable  numbers  in  June  on  the  shores  of  Bering; 
Sea,  as  far  north  as  the  Straits.  The  fishery  lasts  but  a  fortnight, 
and  is  over  by  the  15th  of  June.  They  are  caught  in  seines  by 
the  natives,  and  kept  until  half  putrid,  especially  in  Kamchatka, 
when  they  are  reckoned  a  delicacy.  They  are  also  found  at  Sitka 
and  -along  the  southern  coast,  but  I  have  not  been  able  to  fiiu; 
out  at  what  season  they  arrive.  They  are  caught  in  immense 
numbers  by  the  Indians,  who  have  only  a  lath  with  three  nails 
driven  tiirough  it  and  sharpened.  With  these  they  beat  the 
water,  which  is  so  ."uU  of  fish,  during  their  season,  that  it  is  rare 
not  to  sec  a  herring  on  every  nail.  They  fill  their  canoes  easily 
in  less  than  an  hour.  Their  method  of  fishing  for  cod  and  hali- 
but is  mentioned  elsewhere. 

The  "  mullet  "  is  not  known  to  me,  but  Sccn.ann  mentions  it 
as  replacing  the  salmon  north  of  Kotzebue  Sound  along  the  coast. 

The  tomeod  or  waukhiii  of  the  natives  is  a  permanent  resi- 
dent of  the  more  northern  coasts.  It  is  more  plenty  in  the  fall 
than  at  other  seasons.  It  is  caught  with  an  ivory  hook  without 
bait  or  barb,  especially  just  as  the  ice  begins  to  form  along  shore, 
in  Norton  Sound.  Boat-loads  are  obtained,  as  the  bite  at  the 
white  ivory  hook  as  fast  as  they  can  be  pulled  up.  I  saw  immci.^e 
quantities  of  them  in  Avatcha  Bay.  They  would  be  well  suited 
for  bait. 


^g» 


-m 


FISHERIES.  485 

The  ulikon  has  long  been  tlie  subject  of  remark  iVom  those 
who  have  visited  the  part  of  the  coast  where  it  abounds.  It 
is  a  small  silvery  fish,  averaging  about  fourteen  inches  long, 
and  resembling  a  smelt  in  general  appearance.  The  most  im- 
portant of  the  native  fisheries  is  on  the  Nasse  River  in  British 
Columbia.  Th(>.  spot  is  named  Kit-ldk-a-hxks,  ami  there  was  a 
mission  situated  there.  Many  tribes  come  to  these  fisheries, 
which  begin  about  the  20th  or  25th  of  March.  The  first  fish 
is  addressed  as  a  chief,  with  appropriate  ceremonies.  After 
these  are  over,  the  fishing  goes  on  for  a  fortnight  or  three  weeks. 
The  fish  are  caught  in  a  sort  of  l\'"-ket  made  of  wicker-work. 
They  are  the  fattest  of  all  known  fish,  and  allbrd  a  superior  oil 
when  tried  out.  The  amount  of  fat  is  so  great  that  it  is  impos- 
sible to  keep  them  in  alcohol  for  scientific  examination. 

Dried,  Ihey  serve  as  torchc'- ;  when  a  light  is  needed,  the  tail  is 
touched  to  the  fire,  and  they  will  burn  with  a  bright  light  for 
some  time.  No  description  can  give  an  adecpiate  idea  of  their 
numbers  when  ascending  (he  river  ;  the  water  is  literally  alive 
with  lliem,  and  appears  as  if  boiling.  Wild  animals  draw  from 
the  stream  with  their  paws  sufficient  for  all  their  needs.  I  have 
not  heard  tiia.t  these  fisheries  have  been  utilized,  except  by  the 
natives. 

The  fresh-water  fish  of  Alaska  are  principally  salmon,  white- 
fish,  losh,  or  burbot,  pike,  and  suckers. 

The  salmon  are  of  many  sjKcies.  Those  best  suited  f  ^r  food 
ar^;  called  by  the  Russians  iluyivichcc  {Sdlino  oriciitalis ^),  koibiUka 
{Sa'i-  ' protcHS?),  :\^^(\  jwlfsc/i  {Saliiio n/piiins?).  On  the  Yukon  the 
rcdfish  {Sii/iiio  S(u/^  'iui'iis?)  is  also  a  favorite.  Other  kinds,  with 
large  head ;  and  many  bones  {S.  dcriuatiiuis  and  coiisintiis),  arc 
(Irictl  for  liie  use  of  the  dogs.  The  nundxr  of  salmon  annually 
consutT)ed  by  the  natives  of  Alaska  cannot  he  less  than  twelve  mil- 
lion, at  the  lowest  estimate.  At  the  single  Russian  fishery  near 
Deep  Lake,  Baranoff  Island,  84,159  fish  were  ribtained  dining  the 
scaion,  of  which  two  thirtis  were  salted.  At  the  fisheries  on 
Kadiak  and  Cook's  Inlet,  465,000  salmon  were  caught  annually. 
Among  the  articles  sent  by  Baninoff  to  the  Sandwich  Islands 
were  4,344  casks  of  salted  salmon,  which  realized  the  sum  fif 
93,161  R.  s.  At  the  mouth  of  the  Yukon  not  less  than  two  n)il- 
Hon  salmon  are  dried   every  summer,  and  probably  double  that 


11 


; !  J 


'1 


fMW^ 


fm 


i:    I'iiJiM.i! 


ill      ili 


!'  '■        ! 

,    »:■ 

[m-        ■ 

'    i  ', 

■'    ^'-1 

■i'! 

4S6 


FISHERIES 


number.  Words  fail  to  describe  their  alnindance.  The  weak 
and  injured  fish,  which  die  after  spawninr;,  I  have  seen  jiiled  three 
or  four  deep  in  winrovvs,  on  llie  banks  of  the  Unalakh'k  River,  in 
the  middle  of  October.  The  fishing  on  the  Yukon  begins  in 
June,  and,  except  near  the  sea,  is  over  by  the  middle  of  September. 
Farther  up  the  season  is  still  more  limited  ;  at  Nuklukahyet  it 
lasts  not  more  than  two  months.  Above  Y\nvik  their  abiuuhuicc 
is  not  so  noticeable.  The  sloughs  of  the  Yukon-mouth  and  tlic 
smaller  rivers,  which  empty  into  leering  Sea,  hav;  j)roportionate- 
ly  more  fish  in  them.  The  chowi'chee  of  the  Yukon  is  the  kin^^ 
of  saluKju.  Laid  in  a  little  water,  to  prevent  burning  at  first,  a 
slice  ')f  this  fish  will  more  than  cover  itself  in  the  pan  with  its  own 
fat.  A  number  of  barrels  were  annually  sent  from  St.  Michacr.s 
to  the  governor  at  Sitka,  and  by  him  even  to  St.  Petersburg,  as  a 
rare  delicacy.  None  of  the  more  southern  salmon  can  compare 
with  it  in  flavor.  It  is  particularly  plenty  on  the  Kusilvak,  and 
the  largest,  weighing  sixty  pound.s,  can  be  bought  for  a  single 
leaf  of  Circassian  tobacco.  A  Russian  established  a  fishery  in 
Kazarn  Bay  during  the  season  of  1SC8.  I'^rom  the  1st  of  ':  '\'  to 
the  end  oi'  August  be  put  up  two  hundred  barrels  a  we  '  ,  :.m\ 
could  have  trebled  it  had  he  been  supplied  with  casks  and  salt  in 
sufficient  quantity. 

IC.xamples  might  be  indefinitely  multiplied,  but  sufficient  ha< 
been  said  to  give  an  idea  of  the  value,  extent,  and  importance  ul 
this  branch  of  the  fisheries. 

There  are  no  salmon  north  of  the  Buckland  River,  Kotzeljiu 
Sound,  but  they  are  replaced  by  ihe  "mullet,"  according  to  Dr, 
Seemann. 

The  whitefish  (Coirifoui), espcc'iaWy  in  the  north,  arc  nearly  as  ahuii 
dant  as  tlie  salmon,  but  with  one  exception  they  are  much  smalkr. 

The  iiclima  of  the  Russians  is  found  four  feet  long,  and  nf 
delicious  flavor.  In  the  ^^Ik()n  there  are  eight  species  of 
whitefish.  'I  hese  fish  are  in  many  respects  superior  to  1  he  sal- 
mon, as  many  who  have  ta.sted  the  Lake  Superior  whitefisli,  in 
perfection,  will  admit.  They  are  more  difficult  Ui  preserve,  how- 
ever, the  skin  and  flesh  being  very  tender  and  delicate.  In  tlv 
Yukon  Valley  they  usually  form  the  chief  reliance  of  the  trader- 
in  winter,  when  there  are  no  salmon.  The)'  |)ossess  one  virtue,— 
that  of  not  cloying  by  long  use,  as  salmon  always  does. 


FISHERIES. 


487 


;.  The  weak 
en  piled  throe 
klik  River,  in 
kon  begins  in 

of  September. 
NiikUikahyet  it 
eir  abuiKkincf 
iiouth  antl  th^ 
proportionate- 
on  is  the  king 
ning  at  first,  a 
an  with  its  own 
11  St.  Michael's 
'etersburg,  as  a 
n  can  compare 

Kusilvak,  and 
ht  for  a  singk 
ed  a  fishery  in 
e  I  St  of   'i-ilv  to 


els  a  we: 


md 


asks  and  salt  in 

X  sufficient  ha- 
importance  ul 

-liver,  Kotzi;l)iK' 
xording  to  Dr. 

e  nearly  as  abuii- 
e  much  smaller. 
t  long,  and  nf 
gilt  species  nt 
rior  to  the  sal- 
or  whitefi-^h,  in] 
preserve,  how- 
.dicate.  In  tlv 
c  of  the  trader- 
ss  one  virtue,— I 
does. 


The  losh,  celpout,  or  burbot  (Lo/a  inacnlata),  is  also  abundant  in 
all  the  northern  rivers.  They  grow  to  a  very  large  size,  —  some 
I  have  seen  were  five  feet  long,  —  and  form  an  acceptable  dish  in 
the  absence  of  whitcfish.  Their  flesh  is  hard  and  white,  and  their 
chief  value  is  for  the  liver.  This,  when  broiled,  is  an  exceedingly 
rich  and  delicate  morsel,  and  affords  a  rich  sweet  oil,  used  by  the 
Russians  for  cooking.  The  liver  of  a  large  losh  will  produce 
nearly  a  pint  r)f  oil,  which  perhaps  would  form  an  acceptable  sub- 
.stilute  for  cod-liver  oil.  They  are  very  abundant,  especially  in  the 
nutumn,  and  are  an  exclusively  fresh-water  fish.  The  skin  is 
(hied  and  used  in  trimming  their  dresses  by  the  Innuit,  and  serves 
for  windows  in  I'.astern  Siberia.  The  pike  {Rsox  cstur)  abounds 
in  all  the  ponds  and  lakes.  The  flesh  is  dry  and  inferior  to  that 
of  the  other  fish.  The  roe  and  heads  of  the  Yukon  suckeis 
(CiUostouii)  afford  a  rich  souj),  and  the  same  is  true  of  the  spawn 
of  the  losh. 

Shell-fish  (except  oysters),  crabs,  and  mussel.s,  can  be  obtained 
almost  everywhere  north  of  Dixon's  Entrance,  and  form  a  large 
part  of  the  food  of  the  natives. 

Turning  from  these,  we  (ind  other  sources  of  wealth,  also  known 
as  fisheries.  The  pursuit  of  the  whal",  seal,  and  walrus  has  al- 
ways formed  a  large  part  of  the  commerce  of  the  United  States 
and  Great  Hritai?''.  The  right-whale  fishery  of  the  North  At- 
la.uic,  carried  on  by  hundreds  of  vessels  of  all  nations,  is  annu- 
;il!y  becoming  less  profitable.  l''or  some  years  the  larger  part  of 
the  ri'dit- whale  and  bowhead  oil  and  bone  has  been  obtained 
from   the   North   Pacific. 

In  1848,  the  shi])  Superior,  Captair.  Roys,  passed  through 
Hcring  Strait,  and  this,  the  first  eflbrt  of  the  kind,  was  rewarded 
by  a  full  cargo  in  a  very  i^hort  space  of  time.  The  report  spread, 
and  in  the  following  season  the  example  of  Captain  J^oys  was 
followed  by  one  hunt  red  and  fifty-four  American  whalers. 

The  ])rodiieis  of  the  American  u'hale  fisht;ry  for  the  tpiarter 
'jnding  June  30,  I.S68,  were  1,483,083  gcdloiin  of  oil  (other  than 
sperm)  and  526,566  pounds  of  baleen  or  whalebone,  of  whieh  the 
total  value  was  $  1,661,922.  The  greater  i)art  of  this  came  from 
th<:  vicinity  of  Ik-ring  .Strait. 

fhe  ravages  of  the  pirate  .Shenandoah  in  1864,  struck  a  serious 
bluw  to  th.e  American  whule  fisheries  in  this  region.     Nevcrthe- 


i  I 


I  Si  < 


M     I 


m\ 


u  ■ 


il'i  fi 


i:i:!  1 


488 


FUR  TRADE. 


less,  the  business  has  rallied,  and  at  present  not  less  than  seventy 
iXmerican  whalers  visit  Ikrinj^  Strait,  obtaining  annually  an 
average  of  1,200  barp-ls  of  oil  and  20,000  pounds  of  bone. 

The  vv'liales  of  this  vieinity  are  known  a^;  the  bowhead,  the 
right-whale,  the  sulph'.u--bottom,  humpbaek,  and  "  Californi.i 
gray."  The  first  two  furnish  the  best  quality  of  baleen,  though, 
the  short  baleen  of  the  other  spucies  has  recently  been  made 
available  in  certain  manufactures.  Much  oil  and  bone  is  oli- 
taincd  from  the  l'^;kimo  whalers  by  barter.  The  Russian  Amci  i- 
caii  Company  obtained  a  large  amount  of  baleen  in  this  way 
every  year. 

Previously  American  whalers  were  debarred  from  refitting  in 
the  ports  of  Alaska,  except  in  cases  of  the  utmost  necessity.  At 
present  this  difficulty  has  been  obviated  by  the  change  u'i  rcgijnc. 

Whales  are  abundant,  not  only  north  of  Hering  Strait,  but  also 
all  over  Hering  Sea,  especially  in  the  neighborhood  of  Bristol 
I'ay.  They  are  also  common  in  the  Gulf  of  Ala.«ka.  The  Cli^ 
boiralis,  a  minute  mollusk  which  forms  the  principal  food  of  the 
wliale  in  the  North  Atlantic,  is  wanting  in  Bering  Sea.  Careful 
and  rei)eatcd  observations  have  failed  to  detect  any  such  molhisk 
nortli  of  the  Catherina  Archipelago.  The  principal  food  of  tlic 
whale  in  these  waters  is  the  so-called  "brit,"  a  reddish  scum  which 
covers  the  surfaci;  of  the  sea  for  miles,  and  is  composed  of  minute 
crustaceans.  The  sperm  whale,  attracted  perhaps  by  the  abun- 
dance of  cuttlefish  {Oc/opi)  is  said  to  visit  the  Alaskan  coast 
occasionally.  Multitudes  of  small  whales  are  found  about  the 
Aleutian  Islands,  and  the  hunting  of  the  beluga  or  white  whale 
j'n  the  various  inlets  near  Norton  Sound  has  elsewhere  been 
described. 

Mr.  Davidson  suggests  the  employment  of  smaller  vessels, 
manned  by  Aleutians,  in  the  whale  fishery.  These  might  be 
laid  up  in  winter  in  some  of  the  numerous  liarbors  of  the  islands, 
while  their  cargoes  might  be  sent  south  in  larger  ships.  This 
would,  doubtless,  dei;rease  the  amount  of  e.xpense,  and  at  least 
deserves  a  trial. 

Another  great  source  of  revenue  now  demands  our  attention, 
The  fur  trade  of  Alaska  has  been  widely  known  for  a  century. 
Its  history  is  almost  a  history  of  the  country.  The  furs  were  thi 
princijial,  if  not  the  only  objects  which  led  to  its  exploration  an^l 


''\\ 


FUR  TRADE. 


489 


,  than  seventy 
annually   an 
1  of  bone, 
bowhcad,  the 
1}    "  California 
jaken,  thoui^h 
ly  been  matlc 
.1  bone   is  ol)- 
Lussian  Ameri- 
n  in  this  way 

)m  refitting  in 
necessity.     At 
mge  uf  rc;giine. 
Strait,  but  also 
ood    of  Bristol 
Lf^ka.     The  Clh 
pal  food  of  llv; 
r  Sea.     Careful 
ly  .such  moUusk 
lipal  food  of  the 
ish  scum  which 
)osed  of  minute 

by  the  abun- 
Alaskan    coa.st 

nd  about  the 
or  white  w'hale 
;1  sew  here   been 


s 


mailer   ves.scls, 

lese    might   be 

of  the  islaiuls, 

r  ships.     This 

,  and  at  least 

s  our  attention, 
for  a  century, 
ic  furs  were  thi 
;jxploration  am! 


.settlctr.cnt.  The  fur  trad;  is  the  only  branch  of  Industry  which 
has  been  fully  developed  in  y\laska,  and  all  otheis  have  been 
forgotten  in  the  enormous  profits  which  have  attended  its  sncccs.s- 
ful  [)rosecution.  While  still  offering  abundant  opportiniitics  for 
anui-ising  wealth,  yet  it  is,  in  some  ijf  the  branches  foi  nierly  most 
|)roiitable,  evidently  on  the  decline.  Nevertheless,  it  stands  only 
.second  in  importance  to  the  fisheries,  and,  properly  restricted, 
nlfcrs  large  returns,  not  only  to  individuals,  but  to  the  govern- 


ment. From  a  pecuniary  point  of  view  it  is  at  present  the  most 
important  business  in  the  l«  .ritory. 

It  may  be  divided,  for  cuuvenience  in  discussion,  into  two 
Blanches.  The  first  of  these  comprises  the  cai)ture  and  preser- 
vation of  the  marine  fur-bearing  animals,  and  the  second,  of  all 
lither  fur  animals. 

There  are  two  specie^  which  furnish  the  most  valuable  of  the 
furs  of  Alaska.     These  2.Te  the  sea-otter  *  {Enliydm  marina,  Flem.) 

*  Tiio  sca-ottcr  i.s  well  represented  hv  one  of  .Viidiibon's  platen,  and  also  by  a  very 
I  H'iiitcd  drawing  hy  Wolf,  in  the  I'roc.  Zoiil.  Soc.  of  London. 


St  i.' ■ 


n^jtj 


i-iU 


490 


FUR  TRADE. 


and  the  fur-seal  {CallorJiinus  ursinus,  Gray).  The  former  is  called 
the  sca-bcavcr  by  the  Russians,  and  the  latter  the  sea-cat  {K6iik)\ 
it  has  also  been  called  the  sea-bear  by  many  authors,  perhaps 
from  the  clumsiness  of  its  motions,  for  there  is  no  other  point 
of  resemblance.  The  foregoing  sketch  was  taken  from  life  and 
corrected  by  careful  measurements.  If  it  has  a  fault,  it  is  that 
the  bodies  appear  a  little  too  thick,  but  they  are  correct  by  tlu 
measurements. 

The  sea-otter  is  a  very  large  animal ;  the  fur  is  soft  and  black, 
while  long  hairs  tipped  with  white  add  to  its  beauty.  When 
properly  skinned  the  pelt  is  of  an  oval  form.  The  tails  are  always 
cut  off  and  sold  separately.  The  hair  in  a  first-class  sea-otter 
skin  should  be  nearly  even  in  length  all  over  it,  and  of  uniform 
color.  The  length  of  a  full-sized  skin  is  about  six  feet,  and  it- 
breadth  nearly  four  feet. 

The  sea-otter  is  solitary,  and  almost  exclusively  marine  in  its 
habits.  It  is  said  to  come  up  on  solitary  rocks  or  islets  to  brin^ 
forth  its  yowng.  At  other  periods  it  seldom  visits  the  land.  I: 
often  sleeps  on  the  surface  of  the  water,  floating  on  its  back, 
and  is  said  to  clasp  its  young  with  one  arm  in  an  almost  human 
way.  It  has  black  or  dark  brown  eyes.  The  teeth  are  remark- 
able ;  those  in  front  are  not  unlike  those  of  a  cat,  while  the  grind- 
ers are  rounded,  bossy,  and  broad,  suitable  for  crushing  bones  or 
the  shells  of  bivalves.     It  is  said  to  live  principally  on  fish. 

The  manner  of  hunting  the  sea-otter  is  as  follows.  In  Alaska 
the  Aleuts  or  other  natives  are  the  otter-hunters.  A  large  num- 
ber of  bidcirkas  take  provisions  for  a  day  or  two,  and  when  thi 
weather  is  calm,  put  out,  often  out  of  sight  of  land.  When  ar- 
rived on  the  banks  most  frequented  by  these  animals  the  bidarka^ 
form  in  a  long  line,  the  leader  in  the  middle.  They  paddle  softly 
over  the  water  so  as  to  make  no  disturbance.  It  an  Aleut  seL> 
an  otter's  nose,  which  is  usually  t^-e  only  part  above  the  surface, 
he  throws  his  dart  and  at  the  same  time  elc\  ates  his  paddle  per- 
pendicularly in  the  ail.  The  ends  of  the  line  dart  forward,  so  as 
to  encircle  the  animal  in  a  cordon  of  bidarkac,  and  evory  one  i> 
on  the  watch  for  the  second  appearance  of  the  otter.  The  .'■ami 
process  is  repeated  until  the  animal,  worn  out  with  diving,  lii~ 
exhausted  on  the  surface,  an  easy  prize  for  his  captors.  The  skin  \ 
belongs  to  the  hunter  who  first  struck  it,  or  to  him  who  struck 


FUR  TRADE. 


491 


nearest  the  head.  If  two  wounds  are  inflicted  at  the  same  dis- 
tance from  the  nose,  that  on  the  right  side  has  the  preference. 
Guns  arc  not  used,  as  they  arc  said  to  scare  away  the  otters.  The 
skin  is  stretched  in  a  hoop,  and  the  tail  is  skinned  without  a  longi- 
tudinal incision.  The  sea-otter  was  formerly  very  abundant,  from 
the  Kamchatka  coast  along  the  islands  as  far  as  the  coast  of  Lower 
California.  A  few  are  aiinually  taken  on  the  coast  of  Kamchatka, 
rive  or  six  thousand  among  tlic  islands  of  the  Catherina  and  Alex- 
ander archipelagoes,  and  a  very  few  to  the  southward.  Those 
taken  by  the  Russian  Americaii  Company  were  sent  to  Irkutsk, 
whence  part  of  them  were  taken  to  St.  Petersburg  and  part  to  the 
Chinese  frontier,  where,  at  the  trading  town  of  Kiachta,  they  were 
sold  for  tea  and  silks. 

The  skins  of  the  sea-otter  were  formerly  worth  in  Europe  from 
two  to  five  hundred  dollars,  but  they  have  much  declined  in 
value.  At  present  the  best  quality  bring  only  fiom  eighty  to  one 
hundred  dollars.  The  Aleuts  receive  for  first-class  skins  about 
twenty  dollars  in  gold  or  goods. 

Owing  to  The  peculiar  manner  in  which  the  sea-otter  is  hunted, 
it  would  be  difficult,  if  not  impossible,  to  place  any  restrictions  on 
the  trade.  They  form  a  much  smaller  item  in  the  list  of  peltries 
than  they  did  once.  It  is  a  curious  fact,  that  there  has  always 
been  a  large  difference  between  the  number  of  tails  and  the  num- 
ber of  skins  purchased  by  the  Russian  American  Company,  al- 
though the  Aleuts  were  forced  to  sell  all  their  s.'<ins  to  the  officers 
appointed  by  the  Company  o  receive  them.  The  sea-otter  trade 
was  inaugurated  by  the  sailors  of  L'ering's  second  expedition,  and 
proved  so  profitable-  that  the  Russians  dared  shipwreck,  starva- 
tion, scurvy,  and  the  hostilities  of  the  natives,  for  many  years  in 
the  prosecution  of  it. 

The  fur-seal  fishery,  formerly  less  important  than  that  of  the 
sca-otlcr,  has  of  late  years  far  exceeded  it  in  value.  A  short  re- 
view of  the  history  of  this  fishery  may  not  be  out  of  place.  At 
present  fur-seal  are  almost  exclusively  obtained  on  the  islands  of 
St.  Paul  and  St   George   in  Bering  Sea.     A  few  stragglers  only 

e  obtained  on  the  P'alkland  Islands  and  the  extreme  southwest 
^oast  of  South  America.  The  case  was  formerly  very  different. 
Many  thousands  were  obtained  from  the  South  Pacific  Islands 
and  the  coasts  of  Chili  and  South  Africa. 


t    :     .  «  \: 


'■  \  !■:  a  } 


i.X 


.  i 


%>■ 


492 


FUR   TRADE. 


The  Falkland  Island  seal  {Antophoca  Falklandica,  Peters)  was 
at  one  time  common  in  that  group  and  the  adjacent  seas.  The 
skins,  worth  fifteen  Spanish  dollars,  according  to  Sir  John 
Richardson,  were  from  four  to  five  feet  long,  covered  with  red- 
dish down,  over  which  stiff  gray  hair  projected.  They  were  hunt- 
ed especially  on  the  Falkland  Islands,  Terra  del  ]''uego,  New 
Georgia,  South  Shetland,  and  the  coast  of  Chili.  Three  and  a 
half  millions  of  skins  were  taken  from  Masa  Fuero  to  Canton 
between  1793  and  1807. 

Another  species  {Arctoccplialns  Dclalandi,  Gray)  formerly 
abounded  on  the  coast  of  Africa,  near  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope. 
Their  fur  was  the  least  valuable  of  the  different  kinds  of  fur-seal, 
and  the  species  seems  to  have  become  extinct.  They  were  smaller 
than  the  other  kinds,  and  said  to  be  of  a  reddish-brown  color. 

Of  the  Arctic  or  Bering  Sea  species  {Callorlnnus  ursiiius,  Gray) 
not  less  than  si.x  million  skins  have  been  obtained  since  1741. 

Cajitain  Benjamin  Morrell,  about  the  year  1823,  found  fur-seal 
on  the  Lobos,  Galapagos,  St.  Ambrose,  and  St.  Felix  islands  of 
the  coast  of  Chili  ;  he  also  obtained  them  from  Kerguelen's  Land, 
Bouvctte's  Island,  Staten  Land,  the  Falklands,  Tristran  d'Acunha, 
Masa  Fuero,  and  the  Auckland  Islands.  lie  gives  the  followiii;; 
particulars  in  regard  to  their  habits,  which  apply  particularly  to 
the  Falkland  species. 

The  seal  come  ashore  in  the  month  of  November  for  the  pur- 
pose of  bringing  forth  their  young,  remaining  until  May.     The 
old  males  were  called  "  wigs  "  by  the  scalers  ;  the  females,  "  clap- 1 
matches"  ;  tiiose  two  years  old,  "  dog-seals  "  ;  and  the  very  youiii; 
ones,  "  pups."     The  term  of  gestation  is  ten  months.      The  pu] 
are  born  blind,  and  remain  so  for  several  weeks.    At  three  or  four  I 
weeks  old  they  are  taken  by  the  mothers  into  the  water,  as  a  cat 
carries  her  kittens,  and  taught  to  swim.     They  seldom  have  more 
than  one  young  one  annually.     The  pups,  after  learning  to  swim, 
spend  most  of  their  time  in  the  water.     They  are  easily  tamed 
and  Morrell  had  two  for  several  months.     These  seal  are  said  to  I 
live  on  the  squid  {Loligo),  and  to  attain  an  age  of  thirty  years. 
They  arc  very  active,  often  jumping  six  or  eight  feet  out  of  the 
water,  which  is  never  done  by  the  hair-seals.     They  swim  with 
great  swiftness.     Tlu'y  will  fight  hard  for  their  young  and  for  the 
possession  of  the  females,  but  are  timid  in  other  respects.    The 


I;  ..i 


a 


FUR  TRADE. 


493 


■:a,  Peters)  was 
;nt  seas.  TIk; 
to  Sir  John 
crcd  with  reci- 
ley  were  hunt- 
;1  l'\iego,  New 
Three  and  a 
lero  to  Canton 

}ray)  formerly 
3f  Good  Hope, 
inds  of  fur-seal, 
ey  were  smaller 
•rown  color. 
,•  nrsiniis,  Gray) 
since  1741. 
5,  found  fur-seal 
[^elix  islands  of 
irguelen's  Land, 
stran  d'Acunha. 
cs  the  foUowiii;; 
particularly  to 

ber  for  the  pur- 

ntil  May.     The 

females,  "  clap- 

the  very  youn^; 

Lhs.      The  pupJ 

At  three  or  four 

;  water,  as  a  cat 

Idom  have  more 

earning  to  swim, 

re  easily  tamed 

seal  are  said  to 

of  thirty  years. 

feet  out  of  the 

"hey  swim  willi 

)ung  and  for  the 

respects.     The 


young  seals  do  not  approach  the  females.  They  arc  polyg:  ous, 
each  old  male  having  a  herd  of  eight  or  ten  females.  Their  hear- 
ing is  very  acute.  At  the  end  of  February  the  pups  go  ashore  to 
shed  their  coats.  About  the  1st  of  May  all  leave  the  land  until 
the  month  of  July,  when  they  appear  and  disappear  about  the 
shore  for  some  unknown  reason.  About  September,  first  the 
young  seal,  and  afterward  the  old  ones,  repair  to  the  land  as  be- 
tbre.  La-ge  males  reach  seven  feet  in  length,  and  females  about 
five  feet. 

The  fur-seals  and  sea-lions  are  closely  allied,  forming  the 
family  Otariidce.  They  are  well  distinguished  from  the  hair- 
seals  {Phocidic)  by  their  external  ears  and  long  flippers  desti- 
tute of  hair,  and  with  only  three  nails.  The  hair-seals  have  no 
external  ears,  and  their  flippers  are  broad,  short,  and  covered  with 
hair,  having  five  nails  on  the  hind  ones. 

The  Alaskan  fur-seal  formerly  extended  from  the  ice  line  rf 
Bering  Sea  to  the  coast  of  Lower  California.  At  present  a  few 
stragglers  reach  the  Straits  of  Fuca,  where  five  thousand  were 
said  to  have  been  killed  in  1868,  but  the  great  majority  are 
confined  to  the  Pn'byloff  Islands.  They  have  never  been  found 
in  Bering  Strait,  or  within  three  hundred  miles  of  it.  They 
arrive  at  the  islands  about  the  middle  of  June,  a  few  stragglers 
coming  as  early  as  the  end  of  ]\Iav.  They  leave  on  the  approach 
of  winter,  usually  about  the  end  of  October.  They  are  supposed 
to  spend  the  winter  in  the  open  sea  south  of  the  Aleutian  Islands. 
The  pups  are  born  about  the  middle  to  the  end  of  June.  They 
arc  about  a  foot  long  and  grow  very  rapidly.  Each  female  has 
only  one  pup.  These  young  seal  are  easily  tamed  and  very  play- 
ful. The  bulls  approach  the  females  about  a  week  after  the 
young  are  born.  The  period  of  gestation  is  therefore  nearly 
twelve  months.  The  young  seal  are  kept  away  from  the  females 
by  the  old  bulls  until  they  are  three  years  old.  When  born  the 
pups  are  covered  with  fine  black  hair  without  down.  At  the 
age  of  three  months  this  down  begins  to  appear,  and  about  six 
months  later  the  black  hair  is  replaced  by  a  stronger  hair  tipped 
with  white  or  brown.  At  three  months  the  milk-teeth  are 
replaced  by  the  permanent  set.  The  eye  is  black  and  liquid 
and  large  in  jiroportion  to  the  size  of  the  animal.  When  con- 
tracted the  pupil  is  horizontally  oval,  not  perpendicular,  as  in  the 


v-  I 


I  1: 


pm 


I'll   1    i-       i     :•' 


491 


rilK   TKADE. 


cals.  riicy  ;i|i|)c;ir  lo  fi'fd  on  lisli,  l)ut  will  rcni.iin  in.iny  days  mi 
slioi'i;  williutil  1(1(1(1.  Ndthiii;^  is  roiliid  in  tin;  sloinac.h,  'I'licy 
sleep  ill  Ihc  w.itci  on  iheir  sides,  willi  llie  upper  llippeis  out  ol 
watei',  and  icceivt;  tlie  liulls  iit  the  same  position.  'I'liey  have 
tliie(;  (lies,  a  kind  ol  roar,  like  that  ol  a  youn;^'  tall,  wliieh  iii- 
dieates  aiij;cr  ;  a  mildi-r  ery,  which  they  use  in  callin;^  to  one 
anotiier;  and  a  kind  of  piping;  whistle  wlw.-n  they  are  hot  or 
tired.  They  e.oiiie  up  in  droves  of  many  thousands  on  the  hill- 
sides near  tlu:  shore,  and  literally  blacken  the  inlands  with  then 
nnmhers.  'I"hc  rocks,  which  they  have  scrambled  ovi-r  lor  aj^es, 
an;  polished  and  rounded.  Tin;  '^idimd  whic  h  they  rrcipicnt  is 
avoided  by  the  sea-lions,  and  is  i|nilc  destitiilu  of  herbage.  The 
vicinity  h.is  a  sironj;'  and  disa.^rceablo  odor.  They  f;el  alonir 
rather  awkwardly  on  land,  i;{)inf.j  at  :i  kind  of  j^Mllop,  both  himl 
nippers  movinj^  to(;i'lher.  'I'hey  can  ascend  almost  perpendicular 
rocks,  as  tlu;  skin  which  covers  tlu;  llippers  is  harsh  and  j^rami- 
latcd,  lookiuj^  like  shagreen,  'I'hey  ri;.;ht  desperately  amoii^' 
lhenisi;lves,  each  bull  having  live  or  si.\  lemales  which  he  tli:rcii(ls 
with  the  greatest  courage,  while  they  look  on  comi)lacently,  or 
encourage;  him  with  their  cries.  Tlu:  female  seal  has  lour  teals, 
but  they  are  almost  invisible  except  when  suckling.  They  have 
a  shorter  tail  and  more  reddish-brown  on  their  bodies  than  tin; 
male.  'l"he  latter  has  a  mane,  which  is  absi;nt  in  the  females. 
In  the  fore  llippers  there  are  no  visible  toes,  but  the  hind  flippers 
are  very  long  and  thin,  with  strips  of  skin  ext(;nding  sevi;r;it 
inches  beyond  the  l)(Mies  of  the  toc;s,  which  are  connected  by  a 
web.  A  favorite  attitude,  when  on  land,  is  sitting  with  tlu;  head 
bi;nt  sideways,  tin;  mouth  open  and  thrown  up,  finning  them- 
selves meanwhile  with  t)ne  hind  Hipper.  Wlu'ii  swimming,  llu; 
palms  of  the  two  latter  are  placed  together  and  ext(;n(l  behind, 
performing  the  office  of  a  tail.  They  often  scratch  th(;mselves 
with  the  long  nails  on  these  members.  Tht;  testi;s  are  retractile, 
The  manner  of  conducting  the  fishi;ry  is  as  follows. 

A  number  of  Aleuts  go  along  the  water's  edge,  and,  gelliDi; 
between  the  animals  and  the  water,  shout  ami  wave  their  sticks. 
The  seal  are  very  timitl,  and  always  follow  each  other  like  slieep; 
yet,  if  brought  to  bay,  they  will  light  bravely.  A  man  wIkj 
shoukl  venture  into  the  midst  of  a  herd  woultl  doubtless  be  turn 
in  pieces,  for  their  teeth,  though  small,  are  exceedingly  sharp. 


KUK    IKAlJi:. 


495 


nany  days  on 

^^^vh.     'I'licy 

ippcis  out  ol 

Tlicy  Iiavc 

alf,  wliicli  iii- 

illiii;;   l<»  oiii: 

/   aic   hot    nr 

<  oil  llic  liill- 

(Is  with  ihcir 

ivtT  for  a^cs, 

y  rn;(|iiciil   is 

;il)agc.     The 

7    <;t;t    aloiij; 

)|),  hdth  liiiid 

jcrpciuhiiilar 

;h  and  };raiHi- 

•ati'ly    anion;; 

h  lie  dcii'iuls 

iil)laccnlly,  <ir 

las  lour  teats 

I     'l"hi:y  have 

licH  tliaii  the 

the  fi'inalcs. 

hind  dippers 

ulin;^  scvi.Tal 

nncctcd  hy  ;i 

vith  th(;  iieail 

nniiii;'    them- 

Miiunin^',  tin: 

ctcaid  Ijchiiul, 

1   thcaiisclvei 

uc  rctraclilc. 

;in(I,  getliii.i; 

their  stit:lvS. 
r  Iii<e  shei^p; 
f\    man  who 

less  be  torn 
ly  sharp. 


A  l)ody  of  foiir  or  five  hundred  liaviiig  heen  separated,  as 
iihove,  hom  the  main  asscniMy,  they  ran  ht;  (hiven  very  sl(»vvly, 
hy  two  men,  into  the  interior  ol'  the  island,  exactly  as  a  shepherd 
vvoiild  drive  his  sheep.  Their  docility  depends  on  cinaimstaiiees. 
If  the  sun  is  out,  and  the  ^^lass  dry,  they  cannot  he  diiveii  at  all. 
11  the  day  is  wet,  and  the  ;;rasH  suCficiciitly  moist,  they  may  he 
(liiven  several  miles.  I'Acry  two  or  thret;  minutes  they  must  lie 
;ill()W(,'d  to  rest.  Those  who  Ix^come  tired  arc;  killed  and  skinned 
(111  the  spot  hy  the  drivers,  as  it  is  of  no  use  to  attempt  to  drive 
llicni.  They  would  ;it  once  attack  the  driver,  and  perhaps  seri- 
ously injure  him.  When  the  seal  liavi:  hern  hioni'.ht  to  a  siiilahle 
place,  diey  art;  left  with  some  one  to  w.iteli  thiMii  imlil  it  is  de- 
Mird  to  kill  them,  'i  he  skins  ofold  males  are  so  tlii(k  as  to  he 
iisi  li'ss.  'I'ht;  Kiissians  restricted  the  killini^f  solely  to  )(jiiii;;  iii.des, 
less  than  five  years  and  iiKtie  than  one  year  old. 

No  Cemales,  pups,  or  oKI  bulls  were  ever  killed.  This  was  a 
necessary  provision,  to  i^rcvenl  their  e.\tcrminati(jii.  The  seal  are 
killed  hy  a  blow  on  the  back  of  the  head  with  a  heavy  sli.irp- 
(■(l;;e(l  club.  This  fractures  the  skull,  which  is  very  thin,  and  lays 
llieiii  out  stiff,  instantly.  'I"lu:  Aleut  thc'n  plun^M;s  his  sharp  knife 
into  the  heart,  and  with  woiuha'ful  dexterity,  by  a  few  sweeps  of 
hi-,  loll};  weapon,  separates  the  skin  from  the  blubber  to  which  it 
is  attached.  The  iios(;  and  wrists  are  cut  around,  and  the  ears 
anil  tail  left  attached  to  the  skin.  When  the  opeialion  is  over, 
llic  skin  is  of  an  oval  shape,  with  four  holes  where  the  extremities 
indtnidcd.  These  skins  are  then  taken  and  laid  in  a  larj^^;  pile, 
with  layers  of  salt  between  them.  After  bectjiiiiiif;  thoroughly 
salted,  they  are  doiK;  up,  two  to^^ether,  in  s(piare  bundles,  and 
tied  up  with  twine.  They  are  then  packed  for  transportation  to 
I,(mk1oii.  No  f.,aiiis  are  used  in  killing-  these  seal.  Indeed, guns 
a"-c  not  only  unnecessary,  but  injurious,  for  a  hole-  in  the  skin 
(liiiiinishes  its  value  one  half.  All  the  fur-seal  skins  are  dri'ssed 
in  London.  They  were  worth  in  the  raw  slate,  in  iH^S,  about 
seven  dollars  each  in  gold.  A  machine  has  been  invented  by 
which  the  skin  is  shavcil  very  thin  ;  the  roots  of  the  stilt  hairs 
arc  cut  off,  and  they  may  then  be  brushed  away.  The  tlown, 
which  does  not  Dcnetrate  the  skin  to  any  distance,  remains,  and 
is  dyed  black  or  a  rich  brown.  This  is  the  stale  in  which  we  sec 
ihc  skins  at  the  furrier's. 


>.1^. 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


1.0 


I.I 


l^|28     |2.5 
•^  1^    112.2 


1.8 


1.25      1.4    III  1.6 

^ 

6"     

» 

v] 


^%. 


^ 


/'^^ 


^^*>** 

^v** 
^ 


/; 


7 


Photographic 

Sciences 

Corporation 


23Vf?;5T  ".•,*'?*  iVMIT 

WUSTIR.N.Y.  MSSO 

(716)S73-4503 


1%^ 


496 


FUR  TRADE. 


The  Aleuts  were  formerly  paid  only  ten  cents  each  for  these 
skins,  in  condition  for  shipment,  the  salt  being  furnished;  but  the 
work  of  preparing  them  was  not  otherwise  paid  for.  In  1868 
they  received  thirty-five  cents  apiece,  in  gold  or  goods,  under  the 
same  conditions. 

At  first  the  fur-seal  were  killed  in  immense  numbers  by  the 
Russians.  At  one  time  three  hundred  thousand  skins  were 
destroyed,  in  order  that  the  market  might  not  be  overstocked. 
It  was  only  when  their  numbers  were  very  greatly  diminished 
that  the  number  annually  killed  was  limited,  and  the  other  pre- 
viously mentioned  restrictions  were  imposed.  Of  late  years  not 
more  than  fifty  thousand  fur-seal  were  allowed  to  be  killed  annu- 
ally. Of  these,  five  or  six  thousand  were  from  the  island  of  St 
George,  and  the  remainder  from  St.  Paul.  The  price  has  gradually 
been  rising,  and  is  now  higher  than  for  many  years.  At  one  time 
the  Russian  American  Company  had  a  contract  to  deliver  twenty 
thousand  skins  annually  to  a  New  York  firm  for  $  2.50  each. 
Now  the  skins  may  be  estimated  as  worth  at  least  five  dollars 
each  in  gold  in  the  London  markets.  Of  this,  in  1868,  the  poor 
Aleuts  got  only  thirty-five  cents.  The  price  of  the  salt  and  the 
freight  deducted,  the  rest  remained  for  the  traders.  It  may  be 
said  that  thirty-five  cents  is  enough  for  the  work  they  do,  as  a 
skilful  Aleut  will  skin  fifty  in  a  day.  This  is  to  some  extent 
true,  but  there  is  a  very  large  margin  of  which  a  reasonable  pro- 
portion should  go  toward  paying  the  interest  of  the  debt  incurred 
in  the  purchase  of  the  territory.  This  is  not  only  feasible,  but 
proper  and  just.  Familiarity  with  the  subject  is  my  excuse  for 
suggesting  the  necessary  legislation. 

First,  a  monopoly,  properly  restricted,  offers  many  advantages 
to  the  government.  Those  who  might  receive  the  grant  should 
give  large  and  satisfactory  bonds,  and  pay  a  tax  of  not  more  than 
two  dollars  a  skin  for  the  annual  catch  of  not  over  one  hundred 
thousand,  of  which  not  more  than  twenty-five  thousand  should  be 
killed  on  the  Island  of  St.  George.  The  number  of  the  seal  had 
greatly  increased  up  to  1868,  but  in  that  year  not  less  than  fifty 
thousand  were  killed  on  St.  George's,  and  one  hundred  and  fifty 
thousand  on  St.  Paul's,  by  the  traders.  At  this  rate  they  would 
soon  be  exterminated  or  driven  to  the  Kiirile  or  Commander's 
Islands.     Yet  it  is  probable  that  one  hundred  thousand  might  be 


FUR  TRADE. 


497 


:h  for  these 
led ;  but  the 
ir.  In  1868 
s,  under  the 

bers  by  the 

skins   were 

overstocked. 

'  diminished 

e  other  pre- 

te  years  not 

killed  annu- 

island  of  St. 

las  gradually 

At  one  time 

iliver  twenty 

$  2.50  each. 

;  five  dollars 

168,  the  poor 

salt  and  the 

I     It  may  be 

hey  do,  as  a 

some  extent 

isonable  pro- 

ebt  incurred 

lasible,  but 

excuse  for 

f  advantages 
grant  should 
3t  more  than 
3ne  hundred 
d  should  be 
the  seal  had 
ss  than  fifty 
red  and  fifty 
J  they  would 
Commander's 
nd  might  bo 


safely  killed.  But,  in  case  a  monopoly  be  considered  as  incon- 
sistent with  the  spirit  of  our  institutions,  the  following  restrictions 
should  be  enforced,  if  it  is  desired  to  preserve  the  fishery  and 
obtain  an  income  from  it. 

I.  The  killing  should  be  entirely  restricted  to  the  Aleuts  born 
or  now  residing  on  the  I'rfbyloff  Islands. 

II.  Trading  companies  desirous  of  purchasing  skins  from  the 
Aleuts  should  be  required  to  give  good  and  sufficient  bonds  to 
pay  their  taxes  to  the  officer  appointed  to  receive  them,  to  refrain 
from  trading  or  giving  liquor  to  the  natives,  and  from  violence 
toward  them  or  other  traders. 

III.  A  tax  of  ...  .  dollars  a  skin  should  be  imposed  (to  be 
fixed,  in  the  form  of  a  stamp  of  lead  or  other  suitable  material,  to 
each  skin,  or  to  be  paid  upon  the  delivery  of  the  pelts),  and  col- 
lected by  an  officer,  who  should  reside  on  the  islands  and  supervise 
the  killing,  salting,  and  shipping  of  the  skins.  This  officer  might 
also  serve  as  Indian  agent,  and  the  islands  should  be  declared  an  In- 
dian reservation.  The  buildings  which  have  been  illegally  erected 
on  the  islands  should  be  forfeited,  and  traders  who  infringe  the 
regulations  should  forfeit  not  only  their  bonds,  but  their  vessels  and 
furs,  and  be  forever  debarred  from  receiving  another  license  to  trade. 

IV.  The  killing  should  be  restricted  to  one  hundred  thousand 
annually,  of  which  twenty- five  thousand  should  be  taken  from  St. 
George's,  and  seventy-five  thousand  from  St.  Paul's. 

V.  American  citizens  only  should  be  allowed  to  receive  licenses, 
and  the  salary  of  the  Government  agent  should  be  sufficient  to 
put  him  above  bribery.  He  should  have  an  assistant  on  St. 
George's,  but  all  other  work  could  be  done  at  an  infinitesimal 
cost  by  the  resident  Aleuts.  No  settlements  should  be  allowed 
upon  the  PrfbylolT  Islands,  and  the  law  against  the  sale  of  liquor 
should  be  most  rigidly  enforced. 

Hy  measures  such  as  these,  the  rapacity  of  unscrupulous  traders 
would  be  curbed,  the  Aleuts  protected,  the  government  remuner- 
ated, and  the  trade  put  upon  a  secure  business  foundation.  The 
number  allowed  to  be  killed  might  be  increased  or  diminished 
annually,  as  experience  showed  to  be  necessary. 

The  flesh  of  the  fur-seal  and  sea-lion  serve  the  Aleuts  for  food, 
and  their  blubber  for  fuel.  The  flesh  of  the  fur-seal  forms  but  a 
small  portion  of  the  body.  The  greater  part  is  blubber,  and  this 
32 


!      1^ 


I 


4o8 


FUR  TRADE. 


I  ?' 


is  more  noticeable  because  of  the  thousands  of  bodies  of  seal 
which  are  scattered  over  the  islands.  If  these  were  composed  in 
large  part  of  muscular  fibre,  as  is  the  case  with  the  walrus,  the 
decaying  bodies  would  breed  a  pestilence.  As  it  is,  the  odor  is 
sufficiently  perceptible,  though  a  month  or  two  shows  the  skele- 
ton nearly  clean. 

The  flesh  of  a  young  fur-seal,  placed  in  running  water  over- 
ni^.;ht  and  then  broiled,  is  far  from  disagreeable.  In  fact,  it  tastes 
almost  exactly  like  mutton-chop.  The  young  sea-lion  is  said  to 
be  even  better  eating,  and  both  present  a  marked  contrast  to  the 
fetidity  of  the  flesh  of  the  hair-seal  {Phoca)  of  Norton  Sound. 
The  Aleuts  make  boot-soles,  which  are  very  durable,  of  the  skin 
of  the  flippers.  The  fat  cut  from  the  nearest  carcass  serves  them 
for  fuel.  The  blubber  of  the  fur-seal  makes  oil  of  the  first  quality, 
and  is  worth  about  two  dollars  a  gallon  ;  yet  for  many  years  hun- 
dreds of  barrels  have  fertilized  the  hillsides,  for  want  of  some  one 
to  preserve  it.  Each  seal  will  make  half  a  gallon,  which  would 
give  for  one  hundred  thousand  seal  about  a  thou.sand  barrels  of 
oil,  worth  at  least  sixty  thousand  dollars,  which  has  always  been 
wasted.    In  fact,  the  oil  is  worth  as  much  as  the  skin  at  the  islands, 

The  second  branch  of  the  fur  traile  now  demands  our  attention. 
The  principal  fin-benring  animals,  which  are  not  marine  in  their 
habits,  are  the  fox,  marten,  mink,  beaver,  otter,  lynx,  black  bear, 
and  wolverine.*  Heside  these,  the  skins  of  the  whistler,  marmot, 
reindeer,  mountain  sheep  and  goat,  wolf,  musk-rat,  and  ermine, 
have  a  certain  value,  though  hardly  to  be  classed  as  fur.s. 

The  foxes  are  of  several  varieties.  The  stone  fo.xes  are  blue, 
gray,  and  white  ;  the  red  fox  is  found  of  various  colors,  known  as 
silver,  black,  cross,  and  red  foxes. 

The  white  stone  foxes  are  the  most  valuable  of  the  varieties  of 
that  species  at  present.  They  are  found  in  the  more  northern 
part  of  the  territory,  especially  in  the  Kiiviak  peninsula,  on  tlic 
Arctic  coast,  and  near  the  Yukon-mouth. 

The  most  common  variety  is  the  blue  fox.  It  is  of  a  slate 
color  with  a  pur]ilish  tinge,  and  very  abundant  on  the  Pn'hyloft" 
and  Aleutian  islands.  Tliey  have  been  introduced  upon  most  ol 
the  islands  by  the  Russian  American  Company,  and  only  a  ccr- 


*  'I'licse  animals  arc  ninstly  caught  in  dcad-fiill  trajjs  by  iIk  natives 
white  trappers  and  very  tew  steel  traps  in  the  vicinity  ot  the  Yukon. 


There  arc  no 


FUR  TRADE. 


499 


;s  of  seal 
n posed  in 
•alms,  the 
)e  odor  is 
the  skclc- 

atcr  ovcr- 
t,  it  tastes 
is  said  to 
rast  to  the 
on  Sound, 
f  the  skin 
:rves  them 
rst  quality, 
years  hun- 
r  some  one 
lich  would 
barrels  of 
Iways  been 
the  islands. 
-  attention. 
ne  in  their 
)lack  bear, 
r,  marmot, 
nd  ermine, 
■s. 

:s  are  blue, 
1,  known  as 

/arictics  of 
e  northern 
ula,  on  the 

of  a  slate 

Pribyloff 

on  most  ot 

only  a  cer- 

Ihcic  arc  no 


tain  number  were  allowed  to  be  killed  annually.  The  earliest 
voya{;ers  found  tame  foxes  on  the  larger  Aleutian  Islands,  and 
it  is  not  improbable  that  they  were  all  originally  introduced  from 
the  continent  by  the  hand  of  man.  They  are  very  prolific,  having 
from  twelve  to  fourteen  cubs  at  a  birth.  They  have  exterminated 
all  the  small  animals,  if  any  existed,  on  the  islands,  and  feed  on 
sea-birds  or  the  carcas.ses  of  seal  abandoned  by  the  natives. 

The  gray  stone  foxes  are  the  white  ones  in  their  summer  dress, 
and  the  skins  are  nearly  worthless.  Black  and  silver  foxes  arc 
abundant  in  many  parts  of  the  territory.  Those  from  UnaUishka 
were  formerly  considered  the  best.  Many  are  annually  obtained 
at  Fort  Yukon.  These  were  formerly  among  the  most  valuable 
of  furs,  but  at  present  are  not  so  much  in  favor.  Fifty  dollars 
will  buy  one  of  the  best  quality,  while  formerly  they  were  valued 
as  high  as  three  hundred  dollars.  Cross  foxes,  which  are  much 
more  common,  are  of  proportional  value  according  to  the  quality 
of  the  particular  skin.  Red  foxes  are  found  all  over  the  north- 
ern part  of  America,  and  are  very  common  in  most  parts  of 
Alaska.  The  marten,  known  also  as  the  stone-marten,  fitch,  or 
American  sable,  is  very  abundant  in  the  Yukon  Valley,  especially 
in  the  wooded  district.  The  mink,  which  prefers  the  more  open 
country,  is  at  present  one  of  the  most  valuable  small  furs.  They 
can  be  obtained  near  the  mouth  of  the  Yukon  in  great  numbers, 
and  many  of  them  of  the  finest  quality.  The  price  is  usually  five 
nnisket-balls. 

The  beaver,  as  elsewhere  described,  is  found  in  great  numbers 
all  over  the  northern  part  of  Alaska;  it  is  the  standard  of  value 
among  the  Yukon  Indians.  A  beaver  skin  is  worth  twenty  balls 
or  two  fathoms  of  strung  beads.  I'our  mink,  two  marten,  or  two 
white  fo.xes  are  ecpial  in  value  to  a  beaver.  A  first-rate  otter  is 
worth  three  beaver,  a  lynx  also  three,  a  good  red  fox  is  equal  to  a 
beaver  and  a  half.  This  tariff  is  cpiite  different  from  the  com- 
mercial value  of  the  fur,  but  it  is  that  by  which  all  trade  is  carried 
on  with  these  natives.  A  double-barrelled  percussion  gun  is 
worth  ten  beaver,  yet  a  single-barrelled  flint-lock  will  bring 
twenty.  These  old  customs  cannot  be  overridden,  although  they 
ni;iy  appear  absurd.  The  fixed  prices,  at  which  the  old  trading 
companies  have  held  their  goods,  doubtless  tended  to  confirm  the 
practice. 


.   •  (■'. 


I,* 


500 


FUR  TRADE. 


.  JJ' 


il.i 


Ottet  and  lynxes  are  very  common  on  the  Yukon.  The  wol- 
verine is  rare,  and  its  skins,  as  well  as  those  of  the  wolf,  brin^ 
hij;h  prices  from  the  natives,  who  use  them  for  trimming  their 
dresses.  A  first-rate  wolverine  skin  will  bring  twenty  marten  or 
forty  mink  skins. 

The  skin  of  the  black  bear  is  valuable  in  Russia,  although  not 
much  esteemed  with  us.  The  ermine  is  usually  of  poor  quality, 
except  that  from  the  Kaviak  peninsula.  The  skins  of  Parry's 
marmot  are  used  for  parkies  in  the  territory.  They  were  domes- 
ticated by  the  Company  on  Chirikoff  Island,  a.nd  the  skins  were 
prepared  by  persons  who  were  sent  there  as  a  punishment  for 
slight  offences.  The  hides  of  the  deer  and  moose,  wild  sheep 
and  goat,  are,  if  in  good  condition,  quite  valuable.  They  may  be 
obtained  in  immense  quantities  in  some  localities,  and  in  others 
are  an  article  of  trade  with  the  natives.  Near  the  Yukon-mouth 
a  deerskin  is  worth  three  martens.  The  muskrat  have  only 
been  trapped  within  a  few  years,  yet  abound  in  immense  num- 
bers in  the  northern  par*-  of  the  territory.  A  black  variety  has  a 
Very  beautiful  fur,  fur  surpassing  the  marten  or  even  the  best 
mink.  An  albino  variety  has  been  founil  on  the  Kuskoqiiim. 
The  sifflcnr,  or  whistler,  is  distributed  over  the  territory,  but 
nowhere  common.  Its  skin  is  of  little  value  except  for  rugs  or 
blankets.     Its  Russian  name  is  trabtii^oii. 

The  prices  paid  by  the  Russian  American  Company  for  furs  in 
the  District  of  St.  Michael  were  substantially  as  follows.  The 
trade  was  carried  on  by  barter  entirely.  To  the  original  cost  of 
the  goods  in  Hamburg  or  St.  Petersburg,  from  forty-two  to  sev- 
enty-five per  cent  was  added  for  expenses.  A  marten  was  worth 
one  paper  ruble,  or  twenty  cents.  A  mink  was  valued  at  ten 
cents  ;  fo.xes,  from  thirty  cents  to  five  dollars  ;  stone-fo.xe.s,  ten 
cents  ;  lyn.x,  at  si.xty  cents  ;  beaver,  at  forty  cents  ;  the  castoreum, 
at  five  cents  a  pair  ;  otter,  from  forty  to  eighty  cents  ;  black  bear, 
at  sixty  cents  ;  and  muskrats  or  walrus-tusks  at  one  cent  each. 

But  in  many  respects  the  natives  did  not  receive  even  the 
whole  value  of  this  insignificant  tariff.  Ihe  goods  were  delivered 
at  their  appraised  value  to  the  bidiirshik  of  a  trading-post.  All 
expenses  of  winter  journeys,  of  native  servants  in  the  fort,  and,  in 
fact,  everything  except  the  cost  of  constructing  the  buildings  and 
the  wages  of  the  Russian  workmen,  must  come  out  of  the  trading 


bur 


FUR  TRADE. 


501 


rhc  wol- 
If,  hr'uvf 
ng  their 
larten  or 


3Ugh  not 
quality, 
f  I'arry's 
c  tlonics- 
Lins  were 
ment  tor 
\d  sheep 
y  may  be 
in  others 
an-moutli 
ave  only 
use  num- 
icty  has  a 
the  best 
iskoquim. 
tory,  but 
r  rugs  or 


:)r  furs  in 
The 
al  cost  of 
o  to  sev- 
as  worth 
at  ten 
oxes,  ten 
istorcum, 
ick  bear, 
each, 
even  the 
clelivcrcd 
ost.     All 
t,  and.  in 
ings  and 
c  trading 


goods.  Hence,  while  the  Company's  price  of  a  pound  of  Circas- 
sian tobacco  was  thirty  cents,  and  the  bidarshik  was  expected  to 
balance  his  account  with  the  Uprovalisha  of  his  district  by  re- 
turning, say,  three  mink  for  the  tobacco  ;  yet  the  native  received 
nothing  like  a  pound  for  three  mink  skins.  The  tobacco  comes 
done  up  in  small  bundles  called  papooshki.  There  may  be  from 
two  to  six  of  these  in  a  pound ;  yet  for  each  one,  large  or  small, 
the  native  must  give  a  marten  skin  or  two  mink  skins.  Again, 
the  Compr-.ny's  price  for  lead  was  twenty  cents  a  pound.  Their 
bullets  were  about  thirty-six  to  the  pound.  Yet  the  native  only 
received  ten  balls  for  his  marten,  or  five  for  a  mink  .skin.  In  the 
season  of  1867-68,  there  were  collected  in  the  District  of  St. 
Michael,  by  Stepanoff,  sixteen  thousand  martens,  according  to 
the  Indian  mode  of  counting.  During  the  same  time,  not  less 
than  fourteen  thousand  found  their  way  to  the  traders  at  Kotze- 
bue  Sound  and  Grantley  Harbor,  and  ten  thousand  to  T'ort 
Yukon.  This  makes  a  total  of  forty  thousand,  which  may  be  av- 
eraged to  be  worth  at  least  two  dollars  and  a  half  each.  In  their 
purchase,  not  over  twenty  thousand  dollars  v/ere  expended,  in 
every  way.     The  profits  of  such  a  business  are  evident. 

At  present,  competition  has  raised  the  value  of  the  martens  at 
St.  Michael's  from  twenty  to  fifty  cents  each,  but  in  the  interior 
they  are  still  less  costly. 

The  furs  annually  purchased  by  the  Russian  American  Com- 
pany were  disposed  of  in  this  way. 

ikaver  to  the  number  of  two  thousand  were  sent  to  Irkutsk 
and  then  sold  at  Kiachta  on  the  Chinese  frontier.  The  surplus 
over  that  number  were  sent  to  Shanghae  for  tea,  and  to  America. 
The  castoreum  went  to  St.  Petersburg.  Otter  were  sent  to 
Irkutsk  and  Kiachta.  Some  foxes  went  the  same  way,  and  others 
to  Shanghae.  White  stone  foxes  went  to  San  Francisco,  and 
the  blue  to  Irkutsk.  lilack  bearskins  went  to  St.  Petersburg. 
1-ynxcs  were  formerly  sent  to  .Shanghae  and  afterward  to  Irkutsk. 
Martens  were  sold  in  Sitka,  Shanghae,  and  Irkutsk.  Muskrats, 
mink,  and  Parry's  marmot  {fvrdshka),  were  sold  in  Sitka  for  u::e 
or  exportation.  Of  the  fur-seal,  20.000  went  to  the  United  States, 
8,000  to  Irkutsk  and  China,  a  few  to  Shanghae,  and  the  greater 
portion  to  St.  Petersburg.  Walrus-tusks  were  sent  to  St.  Peters- 
burg, sea-otter  tails  to  Irkutsk  and  China,  and,  finally,  wolf  and 


ii; 


i,  i 


m 


502 


FUR  TRADE. 


wolverine  skins  to  the  District  of  St.  Michael,  where  they  were 
traded  with  the  natives  for  other  furij. 

Since  if<5",  traders  from  the  Sandwich  Islands,  have  visited 
Kotzebue  Sound  and  Grantley  Harbor  every  spring.  These 
traders  are  usually  small  vessels,  brigs  or  schooners.  They  load 
at  Honolulu  with  ammunition,  double-barrelled  Helgian  fowling- 
pieces,  hardware,  and  rum  or  alcohol.  They  follow  up  the  melting 
ice,  and  usually  reach  Hering  Strait  in  the  latter  part  of  June. 
Their  tariff  of  prices  amounts  to  about  fifty  cents  apiece  for 
martens,  in  goods.  They  are  usually  provided  with  whaling  im- 
plements, and  manned  by  Kanakas.  A  single  whale  will  pay  the 
expenses  of  the  voyage,  and  leave  the  profits  of  the  traile  clear. 
The  large  quantities  of  liquor  which  are  obtained  in  this  manner 
by  the  natives  have  a  very  demoralizing  effect.  The  chances  ui 
capture  by  a  revenue-cutter  are  so  small  that  the  risk  is  not  very 
great,  and  the  profits  are  very  large.  Since  the  purchase  of  '",e 
territory,  smugglers,  loaded  with  liquor  from  British  Columbia, 
have  also  carried  on  a  thriving  trade.  It  is  also  said  that  opium 
and  Siberian  sables  have  found  their  way  to  San  Francisco,  via 
Alaskan  ports,  without  paying  iluty.  A  smart  revenue-officer, 
with  a  light-draft  swift-sailing  cutter,  could  soon  materially  dimin- 
ish this  traffic.  The  dilliculty  has  been,  hitherto,  that  the  vessels 
sent  to  Alaska  have  been  so  large  as  to  be  unfit  for  entering  the 
shallow  harbors  in  the  northern  part  of  the  territory  ;  and  they 
have  usually  made  their  appearance  in  the  north  about  the  month 
of  August,  when  the  spring  trade  is  over,  and  the  smugglers  have 
already  returned  to  the  Sandwich  Islands  with  their  cargoes. 

The  late  treaty  with  Russia  has  thrown  open  the  trade  with 
the  natives  in  the  Ochotsk  Sea  ancl  en  the  coasts  of  Siberia  to 
American  ves.sels  for  ten  years.  These  have  not  unfrequenlly 
loaded  with  iicpior,  and  cleared  for  the  Siberian  coast,  afterwards 
disposing  of  part  of  their  cargo  in  Alaskan  waters.  The  atten- 
tion of  the  government  shoukl  also  be  called  to  the  illicit  trade 
carried  on  by  the  Hudson  Hay  Compaiiy  at  Fort  Yukon,  and  to 
the  fact  that  vessels  loaded  principally  with  liquor  have  cleared 
for  a  trading  voyage  in  Alaska  without  opposition  from  the 
oflficials  at  Sitka.  One  of  these  visited  St.  Michael's  in  June. 
1868;  and  another  touched  at  St.  George,  leaving  men  and  liquor, 
though  ostensibly  bound  for  the  coast  of  Eastern  Siberia.     The 


FUR  TRADE. 


503 


rcvcniic-cuttcr  passed  St.  George's  without  landing  or  disturl)ing 
these  smugglers,  who  proceeded  to  slaughter  some  thirty-five 
thousand  seal,  which  were  afterwards  shipped  to  the  Sandwich 
Islands.  Time,  and  a  more  thorough  knowledge  of  the  territory, 
will  doubtless  put  a  stop  to  these  abuses. 

A  wonl  on  the  organization  of  the  territory  may  not  be  out  of 
place.  At  present  the  number  of  Americans  in  Alaska  is  less 
than  five  hundred,  excepting  troops.  These  are  all  connected 
with  trading  companies.  The  great  majority  of  the  traders  are 
lorcigners.  If  a  territorial  government  should  be  organized  at 
present,  the  effect  would  be  to  throw  the  whole  power  into  the 
hands  of  a  few  individuals,  mostly  foreigners,  who  direct  these 
companies.  The  esult  would  be  that  the  stronger  companies 
would  use  their  power  to  crush  the  weaker  ones,  and  to  continue 
the  sale  of  liquor,  and  thus  defeat  the  intentions  of  the  govern- 
ment. The  military  government  is  far  better,  in  spite  of  its 
many  defects.  It  is  an  unquestionable  fact  that  the  aborigines 
would  sell  themselves  body  and  soul  for  liquor,  if  they  could  find 
a  purchaser. 

The  statistics  of  the  fur  trade  given,  from  the  most  trustworthy 
sources,  in  the  Appendi.x,  are,  beyond  question,  far  below  the  truth. 
The  number  of  furs  obtained  in  the  colonies,  according  to  the  an- 
imal reports  published  at  Sitka,  is  always  greater  than  the  number 
stated  in  the  annual  report  published  for  the  stockholders  of  the 
Russian  American  Company  in  St.  Petersburg.  The  discrep- 
ancies cannot  be  reconciled,  and  show  a  great  carelessness  in  the 
manner  of  keeping  the  accounts.  There  was  a  leak  somewhere, 
and  the  Russian  officials  alone  could  tell  where  It  is  probable 
that  strict  probity  did  not  always  characterize  the  colonial 
ofticials.  Beside  the  amount  of  furs  thus  disposed  of,  the  traders 
and  the  Hudson  Bay  Company  doubtless  obtained  a  large  annual 
sup|)ly.  which  is  nowhere  recorded. 

Sufficient  has  been  said  to  show  a])proximately  the  value  and 
extent  of  the  Alaska  fur  trade.  It  may  not  be  superfluous  to 
repeat  that  the  Company  paid  annual  taxes  to  the  Russian 
Crown,  which  averaged  two  hundred  thousand  rubles.  Other 
sources  of  revenue  remain  to  be  noticed. 

The  sea-lion  (Iliiinctopias  Stcllcri,  Mull.)  and  the  walrus  {Ros- 
manis  obcsns,  111.)  have  long  furnished  hides,  oil,  and  ivory  to  the 


!i '  il 


'ill 


) 


504 


OTHER   RESOURCES. 


inhabitants  of  Alaska.  Tlic  quantity  of  walrus-tusks  annually 
obtained  will  avcraj^c  one  hundred  tliousand  pounds.  These 
animals  are  most  abundant  near  Port  MoUer  in  Jiristol  Hay,  and 
on  the  more  northern  coast  and  islands.  They  feed  principally 
upon  shell-fish,  which  they  swallow  whole,  and  the  shells,  which 
remain  after  they  have  digested  the  contents,  are  found  in  large 
numbers  about  the  localities  which  they  frequent.  The  hide  has 
been  successfully  used  for  belting  and  covering  skin-boats.  The 
oil  is  a  well-known  article  of  commerce.  There  is  no  doubt  but 
that  the  annual  supply  might  be  largely  augmented. 

The  sea-lions  are  abundant  on  most  of  the  rocky  islands.  They 
appear  in  May  and  remain  until  late  in  the  fall.  They  come 
ashore  to  breed  and  often  remain  in  one  spot  for  weeks.  They 
appear  to  subsist  mainly  on  fucoid  alga)  or  sea-weed,  and  many 
stones  are  found  in  their  stomachs.  The  males  often  weigh  two 
or  three  tons.  Their  hide  and  oil  arc  used  for  the  same  purpose 
as  tliose  of  the  walrus,  though  inferior  in  quality.  The  whiskers 
of  the  sea-lion  are  as  large  as  a  quill,  and  sometimes  fifteen  inches 
long.  They  are  exported  to  China,  the  Chinese  paying  a  high 
price  for  them  to  use  as  toothpicks.  The  gall  is  also  disposed  of 
in  China,  being  used  in  the  manufacture  of  silk. 

Many  casks  of  ducks  and  geese  were  annually  salted  down  by 
the  Russians.  They  form  a  very  agreeable  addition  to  the  winter 
fare.  The  quantity  of  game  of  this  kind  in  Northern  Alaska  is 
so  great,  that  the  time  may  come  when  eggs,  salted  birds,  eider 
and  swans  down,  may  occupy  some  space  in  the  commerce  of 
Alaska. 

The  fashion  (set  centuries  ago  by  the  Innuit)  of  wearing  tiio 
beautiful  skins  of  the  grebe,  loon,  and  diver,  as  furs,  may  open  a 
new  branch  of  commerce.  Milliners  may  obtain  thousands  of 
wings  and  breasts  of  the  most  delicate  colors  and  rarest  beauty, 
from  the  northern  marshes.  From  the  same  source,  the  luxurious 
sleepers  of  the  west  coast  may  fill  their  beds  and  pillows. 

The  immense  fields  of  kelp,  which  fringe  the  greater  portion 
of  the  northwest  coast,  have  been  the  wonder  of  navigators  from 
the  time  of  the  earliest  voyages. 

The  manufacture  of  carbonate  of  soda  and  iodine  from  this 
fucus  is  a  business  of  no  little  importance  in  the  Old  World. 
These   sea-weeds   are  dried  on  the  shore   and  carefully  burned 


OTHLR    RLSOL'RCLS. 


505 


innually 
These 
iay,  and 
incipally 
s,  which 
in  large 
hide  has 
ts.  The 
oubt  but 

s.  They 
ley  come 
s.  They 
nd  many 
reigh  two 
e  purpose 
;  whiskers 
:en  inches 
ig  a  high 
isposcd  ot 

I  down  by 
the  winter 
Alaska  is 
irds,  eider 
nmerce  ot 


in  an  oblong  kiln.  After  the  whole  is  burnt,  the  mass  gradu- 
ally softens,  when  it  is  stirred  with  an  iron  bar  until  it  reaches 
a  semifluid  consistency.  It  is  then  allowed  to  cool,  and  when 
broken  up  is  ready  for  the  market.  According  to  the  I'.tny- 
(loptdia  Anicruaiut,  small  fanns  in  the  Orkneys  which  formerly 
rented  for  ^"40  a  year  have  now  risen  to  ;^  300,  on  account 
of  their  kelp  shores;  and  so  much  importance  is  attached  to  this 
branch  of  business,  that,  along  sandy  shores,  stones  have  been 
placed  within  the  flood-mark,  on  which  the  sea-weed  soon  collects. 
Many  thousand  tons  are  thus  manufactured  annually,  and  bring 
from  £7  \.o  £  10  per  ton.  The  alkali  is  consumed  in  the  manu- 
facture of  glass  and  in  all  hard  soaps.  It  is  from  incinerated  kelp 
that  iodine  is  obtained  in  large  quantities.  The  solution  of  kelp, 
from  which  all  the  alkali  has  been  crystallized,  by  a  chemical  pro- 
cess aftbrds  iodine  through  distillation.  This  branch  of  manu- 
facture might  be  carried  on  in  almost  any  part  of  Alaska  to  any 
desired  extent. 

The  resources  of  the  new  territory  having  now  been  pointed 
out,  it  only  remains  for  the  irresistible  energy  of  American  citi- 
zens to  hasten  their  development.  Time  alone  can  prove  their 
ultimate  value. 


r   11 


earing  the 
lay  open  a 
)usands  of 
St  beauty, 
luxurious 


e 


r  portion 
ators  from 


from  this 
)kl  World. 
Uy  burned 


CHAI'TKR    VII. 


Adjacent  Territories  and  their  Iniiahitants. 

BRITISH  COLUMHIA  is  too  well  known  in  America  to 
require  much  notice  here.  It  is  probable  that  the  mines 
of  coal  or  fjoUl,  the  only  wealth  of  that  colony,  extend  northward 
into  Alaska.  l*'urther  exploration  in  the  southern  portion  of  that 
narrow  strip  of  coast  is  necessary  to  determine  the  localities  where 
the  above-mentioned  minerals  crop  out ;  but  that  they  exist  there 
is  little  doubt. 

The  colonies  of  Vancouver  Island  and  British  Columbia  have 
been  recently  united  under  one  government,  with  the  capital  at 
New  Westminster.  The  costly  machinery  of  two  Hritish  colonial 
governments  prcfVed  too  heavy  a  burden  for  the  slender  resources 
of  the  coionisis,  anil  necessitated  the  chan;j;e.  There  can  be  little 
doubt  but  that  annexaticn  to  the  United  States  would  be  hailed 
with  joy  by  the  majority  of  the  inhabitants  of  this  rcfijion,  who 
have  already  taken  to  celebratinj^  the  I'ourth  of  July  with  a 
heartiness  not  surpassed  by  the  citizens  of  the  United  States  on 
the  atljacent  shores  of  I'upjet  Sound. 

Victoria,  \^  I.,  formerly  a  thriving  town  of  some  twenty  or 
thirty  thousand  inhabitants,  is  now  comparatively  depojnilated 
After  the  placr  mines  of  liritish  Columbia  had  become  worked 
out,  and  quartz  r.iills  became  a  necessity,  the  population  dwin- 
dled. I'or  some  time,  as  a  free  port,  it  invited  .some  conmieree, 
and  was  a  noted  base  for  snni,i;';;lin,L;  operations.  The  consolida- 
tion of  the  two  colonies,  and  the  imposition  of  import  duties,  still 
more  reduced  its  prosperity,  and  lonjjj  lines  of  deserted  houses 
stand  in  evidence  of  the  fact  that  mineral  wealth  alone  will  never 
make  a  prosperous  country.  The  fi.sheries  of  British  Columbia 
have  been  ne<;lected,  her  timber  is  in  p;reat  part  inaccessible,  and 
she  has  no  farming  land,  except  in  small  isolated  patches. 

Lakes  Kennicott  and  Ketchum,  the  sources  of  the  Yukon,  are 


1 


A  UJ  AC  K  N  T  T  K  l<  R I  TO  R I LS. 


507 


ncrica  to 
lie  mines 
orllnvard 
)n  of  that 
ics  where 
xist  there 

il)ia  have 
cai)ital  at 
h  colonial 
resources 
n  be  link 
be  hailed 
;i()n,  win) 
with  a 
States  on 

wcnty  or 
opulated 
worked 
on  d\vii\- 
oninierce, 
onsolida- 
utics,  stilt 
houses 
■will  never 
Columbia 
siblc,  and 


le 


JC 


in  Hritish  Columbia.  The  e.\|)l()ration  of  this  part  of  thvj  terri- 
tory is  mainly  due  to  the  employes  of  the  Western  Union  Tele- 
j;raph  Company.  T;ihco  Lake  was  reachetl  in  August,  \^C)j,  by 
Mr.  Michael  iJyrnes,  a  miner,  well  known  in  Caribou,  lie  hatl 
been  temporarily  empioyeil  as  an  explorer  by  the  Company. 
The  object  which  tempted  him  to  leave  the  nolil-tields  of  Caribou 
was  more  the  hope  of  findin;;  gold  than  the  love  of  e.\|)loratioii. 
rnaccompanied,  except  by  a  few  Indians,  he  made  his  way  over 
iiiils,  down  narrow  canons  and  dilficult  rapids,  until  he  Ii;;liled  his 
;)i|)e  and  built  his  camp-tire  on  the  beach  of  'IVihco  Lake.  In 
June  of  the  same  year,  Ketchum  and  Lebai};e  had  visited  I'ort 
Selkirk,  or  rather  the  spot,  distinguishcil  by  two  rubble-built 
liiimneys,  where  the  fort  hail  stooil  before  it  was  burnt  by  the 
Cliilkiihts.  One  hundred  and  twenty  miles,  two  .' lys  down 
stream,  easy  travel,  —  nay,  hardly  a  day  and  a  half  in  ilu-ir  swift 
birch  canoes,  and  the  explorations  would  have  Ik'-mi  finished,  and 
he  would  have  earned  the  honor  of  comple  ^  them.  That 
evening  a  r;i-ioe  with  two  Indians  .arrived  in  hast<',  with  the 
news  that  tin;  enleri)rise  was  abaniloned,  and  Mr  Kyrnes  iiii;^ht 
It  n,  ;is  the  Company  would  not  re(piire  his  ser\  ices  as  ex- 
plorer any  loiij^er  ;  the  succi-ss  of  the  Atlantic  Cable  reiKkrin;^ 
the  failure  of  this  audacious  but  poorly  executLtl  enterprise  no 
lon<;er  a  matter  of  doubt. 

Mr.  Hyrnes  returned,  moody  and  silent,  refusing;  to  converse 
on  the  subject.  It  is  said  he  has  returned  to  the  wilderness,  still 
in  search  of  ijold  ! 

The  Yukon,  from  I'ort  .Selkirk  to  the  mouth  of  the  I'orcupine 
River,  w.is,  I  believe,  first  descended  by  Mr.  CamplKli  of  the 
Hudson  Hay  Company's  service.  Me  was  in  charj;e  of  I'ort 
Selkirk,  and  learninj;  from  the  Indians  that  there  were  no  ob- 
structions to  navigation,  he  supposeil,  correctly,  that  it  would  be 
easier  to  trans|)()rt  their  furs  and  supplies  by  the  way  of  the 
Porcupine  and  Tecl  Rivers,  than  by  tin-  more  laborious  route 
I'leviously  employed.  After  the  first  trip  this  v.-as  thoroughly 
demonstrated,  and  that  route  was  followed  for  several  years. 

One  day,  however,  in  1S51,  the  Chilk.ihts.  instigated  it  was  said 
W  the  Russians,  api)earcd  before  the  fort  in  force.  Mr.  Camp- 
bell and  two  men  who  held  the  fort  sa-^  it  was  of  no  use  to  ex- 
asperate them,  and,  like  the  coon  in  the  story,  came  down  and 


rl! 


l\ 


t\ 


.1 


508 


ADJACENT   TKKRITORIES. 


let  tliom  ill.  No  violence  was  oflered  them,  except  that  they  were 
tied  while  the  Indians  plundered  the  storehouse.  Mr.  Campbell 
aiterv  :ril  said,  that  it  maile  his  blood  boil  to  see  the  },'ou(ls, 
broii|;ht  so  far  at  the  cost  of  so  much  hard  work,  carried  off  with 
perfect  SiV/i;--/roit/ hy  these  ^ood-for-nothin<;  Indians.  Prudence, 
however,  kept  him  quiet,  and  after  the  Indians  had  had  their  fill 
of  ])lunder,  they  allowed  him  and  his  men  to  depart  in  jieace. 

/.  *"tcr  their  departure  the  Indians  amused  themselves  by  mak- 
ing; a  bonfire  of  the  fort,  as  they  had  j  leviously  of  Telly  Hanks 
l*'ort  and  the  post  at  I-'rances's  Lake.  The  two  blackened  chim- 
neys alone  were  found  by  Messrs.  Ketchum  and  Lebarge  on  their 
visit  in  1867. 

This  spot  is  interesting  to  practical  men  as  being  the  head  of 
navigation,  anil  to  botanists  as  being  the  most  northern  point 
where  true  pines  arc  found  on  the  Yukon.  The  trees  are  small, 
but  bring  cones  to  maturity,  and  from  them  it  has  been  deter- 
mined that  the  tree  is  the  J^itms  cotitorta  of  botanists.  All  the 
so-called  pines  on  the  Yukon  north  of  this  are  spruce  {A.  alba). 
The  scenery  in  the  vicinity  of  the  Stikine,  Tahco,  and  Lewis 
rivers  is  mountainous.  The  mountains  do  not  attain  any  very 
great  height.  Near  Fort  Selkirk  they  are  moderately  high,  hut 
increase  in  grandeur  as  we  descend  the  Yukon.  Toward  the 
Alaskan  boundary  the  river  cuts  its  way  through  a  high  aiul 
mountainous  country.  The  gn-at  Rocky  Mountain  or  Chip- 
pewyan  Chain,  trending  with  the  coast-line  of  the  continent,  does 
not,  as  represented  on  many  maps,  form  an  unbroken  line  to  the 
Arctic  Sea,  but  bends  with  the  coast-line,  and  finally  merges  into 
the  Alaskan  Range,  which  forms  the  backbone  of  the  peninsula 
of  Aliaska,  arnl  farther  west  the  chain  of  the  Aleutian  Islands. 

On  the  river,  according  to  Captain  Ketchum,  the  rocks  are 
principally  metamorphic  cpiart/ites  and  black  and  gray  slates. 
The  Yukon  cuts  through  this  chain  at  its  broadest  part  in  the  beml, 
about  latitude  64"  N.  Here  the  river  is  narrow  and  dark,  runnini; 
with  the  greatest  impetuosity,  though  without  rapids,  for  many 
mile!j.  The  current  is  such  that  it  is  only  a  four  days'  trip  drift- 
ing from  Fort  Selkirk  to  the  mouth  of  the  Porcupine  River,  in  the 
month  of  Julv.     Later,  when  the  water  is  very  low,  it  is  less  rapid. 

\Vraiii:;iU  l.iXiui.  —  Haron  Wrangell  and  Dr.  Kyber  in  1820-23 
made  e.vplorations  in  Eastern  Siberia,  and  recei\ed    information 


I  -i 


ADJACENT   TKRRITORIES. 


509 


ihcy  were 
C;impl)oll 
he  «,fooils, 
.-(1  oil"  with 
rrutlcncc, 
(1  their  fill 
|icacc. 
;s  by  niiik- 
clly  Hanks 
-ncd  chim- 
ge  on  their 

he  head  of 
hern  jiuint 
s  are  small, 
)een  deter- 
s.  All  the 
e  {A.  allui). 
and  Lewis 
11  any  very 
\,'  high,  hut 
oward   the 

I  hi};h  ami 

II  or  C!iip- 
inent,  does 
line  to  the 

nerges  into 


from  the  natives  of  high  peaks  visible  in  fine  weather  from 
tape  \'akan.  In  1S49,  from  the  vieinity  of  Herald  Island,  Kel- 
lett  saw  high  mountains,  whieh  were  probably  the  same.  On 
the  old  Russian  maps  land  is  laid  down  in  this  direction. 
As  yet  no  explorers  have  landed  upon  these  shores.  The 
latest  and  most  circumstantial  account  of  W'rangell  Land  is  de- 


Theodore  L 


)f  th 


e 


rived  Irom  an  .\merican  wlialer.  Laptain  1  lieoilore  Long,  o 
liark  Nile,  reports  having  seen,  August  14,  1S67,  in  Ion.  180" 
hit.  70"  45',  land  distant  about  sixteen  miles  ;  along  which  he 
held  his  course  for  three  days.  It  extended  east  aiul  west  appar- 
ently about  three  degrees  of  longitude.  Several  high  peaks,  one 
supposed  to  be  volcanic,  were  observed,  and  the  eastern  and 
western  capes  were  named  by  Captain  Long  respectively  Cape 
Hawaii  and  Cape  Thomas.  There  was  abundance  of  ice  between 
the  vessel  and  the  shore,  and  Captain  Long  did  not  consider  him- 
self justified  in  risking  his  vessel  tor  the  pleasure  of  landing  on 
the  unknown  coast.  The  passage  between  it  and  the  Siberian 
coast  has  been  named   Long  Strait. 

The  reports  of  whalers  from  the  Arctic  Sea  would  seem  rather 
to  point  against  the  proi)ability  o'i  an  open   I'olar  .Sea  as  under- 


slood   bv    Kane  and    W'rangell.     WhiK 


w 


arm    currents    |)assin< 


iKirthward  through  Hering  aiul  Davis  Straits  woulil  doubtless 
tend  to  keep  open,  I'ven  in  winter,  large  sheets  of  water  (such  as 
exist,  during  the  most  extreme  cold  of  winter,  in  the  more  rapid 
jHirtions  of  the  \'ukon  River),  still  it  seems  imj)robable  that  any 
y  extensive  portion  should  remain  permanently  free  from  ice  ; 
strucled,  as  is  the  ease  with  much  of  the  I'olar  .Si-a,  with  islands 
1  shoals,  each  gathering  its  girdK'  of  ice  al>out  it.     That    por- 


\er 


aiu 


tion  of  the  .Arctic  Ocean  north  of  Herini--  .Str.iit  has  hitherto  be 


en 


uiu 


Inly  lu'glected.  It  offers  many  inducements  lor  more  thorough 
exidoration. 

In  Juiu',  1647,  Michael  St;idukin,  a  Cossack,  was  sent  from 
Nijni  Kolymsk  to  discover  an  island,  or  land  separated  from  the 
c>iiitinent,  which  was  reported  as  being  visited  bv  the  Clu'ik- 
(iiees.  with  reindeer  in  winter,  over  the  iee.  He  returned  iinsiic- 
lessful.  This  reported  land  may  have  been  W'rangell  Land,  but 
was  more  probr.bly  the  small  islands  otV  the  mouth  of  the  Kohina 
Kiver  ;  still,  if  tin;  latter  was  the  case,  it  seems  singular  that  he 


(111 


1  not  reach  them  without  difficulty, 


'I  I'i  i 


'I 


I!   I;  I  :i 


f 


I 


'■IlLi: 


i   ! 


510 


ADJACENT   TERRITORIES. 


There  are  traditions  among  the  Chiikchccs  of  implements  nf 
wood  and  bone  washed  ashore  on  the  northern  coast,  of  a  fashion 
differing;  from  those  of  Chukchee  manufacture,  and  from  tli;)hc 
made  by  the  Innuit  to  the  eastward,  with  whom  they  are  well 
acquainted. 

There  are  also  stories  told  how  years  ago,  yet  in  the  meinorv 
of  Chukchees  now  living,  one  very  cold  winter,  strange  men, 
speaking  a  different  language  from  Chukchee,  Innuit,  or  Russian, 
came  from  the  north  over  the  ice,  landed  on  the  Siljerian  shore, 
took  many  of  the  Chukchee  reindeer,  and  went  back,  no  one 
knew  whither.  A  few  years  later  the  incursion  was  repeated, 
the  Chukchees  rallied  to  protect  their  proi)erty,  a  bloody  fight 
ensued,  many  Chukchees  were  killed,  and  the  strangers  retreated 
to  the  northward,  and  have  never  since  been  seen. 

This  legend  may  be  due  to  the  aboriginal  imagination,  or  it 
may  be  founded  on  a  fact ;  I  give  it  as  it  was  told  ;  future  ex- 
plorers may  find  confirmation,  or  determine  its  mythical  nature. 

'J'/w  Chi'ikchcc  Peninsula.  —  That  portion  of  Eastern  Siberia 
which  is  known  under  this  name  is  situated  east  of  the  vallev 
of  the  Anddyr  River,  Chaun  liay,  and  Anadyr  15ay.  It  has  never 
been  thoroughly  explored,  and  is  a  desolate  waste  of  tundra  and 
low  mountains,  with  small  trees  along  the  Anadyr  River,  and 
elsewhere  only  the  moss  and  grass  on  which  the  reindeer  feed 
The  argali,  or  mountain  sheep,  is  said  to  exist  in  the  mountains, 
while  immense  herds  of  wild  reindeer  roam  over  the  tundri. 

This  peninsula,  forming  the  western  boundary  of  Bering  Strait. 
and  part  of  Hering  Sea,  is  of  interest  from  its  near  approach  tc 
our  territory. 

The  coast,  from  Cape  Serdzc  Kamcn  (Heart  of  Stone)  to  Eri\ 
Cape,  and  thence  to  Cape  Bering  in  Anadyr  Gulf,  is  generally 
high  and  rocky.  Granitic  hills  rise  sharply  from  the  water,  cov- 
ered with  keen -edged  fragments  detached  by  the  frost,  ai:! 
broken  by  the  same  agency  to  the  size  of  a  man's  fist  and  \\\- 
wards.  Snow  may  always  be  found  somewhere  on  them,  if  note: 
the  summits,  at  least  \\\  some  of  the  sheltered  fissures  of  the  moun| 
tain-sides. 

There  arc   no  watercourses,  as  water  filters  through  the  ir. 
mense  masses  of  broken  stone,  far  below  the  surface  ;  and  is  on'y| 
to  be  obtained  near  the  base  of  the  hills. 


The  |) 
low,  bar 
I'arthcr  c: 

Just 
lower  an  I 
the  main 
\vhose  \-cj 
long  (Ictc 
Iwy  have 
line  to  til 
and  rt'cen 


emcnts  of 
f  a  fashion 
Voni  those 
y  arc  well 

nc  memory 
angc  men, 
ar  Russian, 
rian  shore, 
ck,  no  one 
LS  repeated, 
)loocly  figlu 
rs  retreated 

lation,  or  it 
;  future  cx- 
:al  nature, 
tern   Siberia 
)f  the  valley 
It  has  never 
"  tundra  and 
River,  and 
indecr  feed, 
mountains, 
undri. 
oring  Strai;, 
approach  to 

tone)  to  Ea^ 
is  generally 

c  water,  cov- 
frost,  ai.. 
fist  and  up- 

lem.  if  not  o:, 
of  the  moun 


10 


0 


ugh  the  iv 
and  is  on' 


ADJACENT   TERRITORIES. 


5" 


Had  Eugene  Sue  ever  visited  these  shores,  he  would  not  have 
described  the  stunted  birch-trees  sighing  in  the  wind,  while  the 
Wandering  Jew  and  his  partner  in  misfortune  conversed  with 
each  other  across  licriiig  Strait !  That  forty-mile-wide  expanse 
of  blue  water  never  reflected  the  stem  of  a  growing  tree  as  large 
as  a  lead-pencil.  Richly  colored  mosses  and  lichens  adorn  the 
ungrateful  rocks.  Grass,  chickweed,  and  creeping  willow  are 
ibiiiul  sparingly  in  the  most  ^xvorcd  localities  and  fertile  gravel. 
A  tasteless,  seedy,  heather  berry  is  the  only  fruit,  if  indeed  it 
deserves  the  name.  A  more  forbidding,  desolate,  and  cheerless 
shore  does  not  exist. 

Wandering  Jews  are  not  unknown  here,  by  the  way  ;  but  they 
appear  to  have  degenerated  from  the  ancient  stock,  and  have  a 
I  sharp  eye  for  business  ;  buying  of  the  greasy  Tuski  their  stores 
of  whalebone,  oil,  and  walrus-tusks,  and  making  them  happy  with 
tobacco,  powder  and  ball,  guns,  knives,  kettles,  and  the  vilest  of 
alcoholi':  concoctions. 

Notwiihstaniling  the  rock-bound  aspect  of  the  coast,  it  abounds 
with  good  harbors,  where  the  whalers  and  traders  resort  for  water, 
rest,  and  that  delectable  occupation  known  to  the  initiated  as 
"gdiiiDii//:^."  For  the  benefit  of  those  who  have  not  been  aboard 
of  a  whaler,  I  will  remark  that  the  English  for  the  above-men- 
tioned term  is  "  making  calls." 

The  best  of  these  harbors,  or,  rather,  a  series  of  harbors,  one 
within  another,  is  known  to  the  whalers  as  Plover  Bay.  The 
riovcr  wintered  here  in  184.S-49,  hence  the  name.  It  is  often 
marked  on  the  charts  Port  Providence,  which  I  believe  was  the 
name  given  to  it  by  Captain  Moore. 

The  point  to  the  eastward  of  the  mouth  of  the  bay,  as  it  is  rather 
low,  bare,  and  round,  goes  by  the  name  of  l)ald  Head  ;  somewhat 
farther  east  is  the  cape  known  to  the  Russians  as  ChuktUski  Nose. 

Just  inside  of  the  heads  a  sandspit  makes  out,  forming  the 
lower  anchorage  behind  it.  Several  smaller  bays  diverge  from 
the  main  one,  among  the  rest  Emma  Harbor,  named  so  by  Moore, 
[whose  vessel  lay  there  during  one  winter.  Notwithstanding  the 
long  detention  here  of  regular  exploring  ships,  the  charts  of  the 
ibay  have  hitherto  been  exceedinglv  erroneous.  A  new  chart, 
due  to  the  officers  of  the  Western  I'nion  Telegraph  Ilxjiedition, 
and  recently  published  by  the  Unitetl  States  Coast  Survey,  gives 


' 


i  f 


1 


f  t.  f  i 


'T  " 


t   t   1 


I'X 


III' 


I 


■;■> 


M  i 


in 
■!'l      ' 

ill!'  I 


III  ■■  ,!■ 


|m 


w  • 


512 


ADJACENT   TERRITORIES. 


a  fair  view  of  the  harbor  for  the  first  time.  As  a  haven  of  rcfuj;c 
for  whalers,  traders,  and  other  vessels  in  these  waters,  its  value 
cannot  be  estimated.  There  is  abundance  of  excellent  water, 
ballast  by  the  million  tons,  all  ready  for  shipping.  Fish,  and 
occasionally  tame  reindeer  meat,  can  be  obtained  from  the  native 
settlement  on  the  sandsi)it,  where  several  of  them  speak  fair  luig- 
lish.  IC.xcellent  anti-scorbutic  grass  can  also  be  procured  in 
j:)lenty  near  the  beach. 

The   middle  of  the  bay  is  very  deep,  one  hundred  and  t\v( 
fathoms,  without  bottom,  being  reported.     The  lower  anchorage 


MiiUiit   Kt'iiiiicolt,   I'Idvci'  r>.\y. 

has  rather  deep  water,  except  close  in  ;  and  in  a  norther  a  large 
vessel  would  need  plenty  of  chain  and  good  anchors,  as  the  bot- 
tom is  hard  in  some  spots,  and  there  is  a  slight  liability  to  dra; 
The  small  bays  farther  in,  however,  are  perfectly  protected,  aiu! 
have  the  best  of  holding-ground.  The  end  of  the  sandspit  in  tlit 
lower  harbor  is  in  lat.  64°  22'  25",  and  Ion.  173°  30'  32",  accord- 
ing to  the  report  of  the  United  States  Eclipse  Expedition  under 
Professor  Asaph  Hall,  in  1869. 

The  mountains  around  the  bay,  though  steep  and  rugged,  arel 
low.  I  measured  several  with  a  mercurial  barometer,  and  namcJ 
the   highest  and  most  prominent   Mount  Kennicott,  after  tha; 


ADJACENT   TERRITORIES. 


513 


I  of  refuge 
s,  its  value 
unt  water, 
Fish,  ami 
tlie  native 
k  fair  Etig- 
rocured  in 

tl  and  two 
•  anchora'Ti 


irthcr  a  large 
|s,  as  the  hot- 
)ility  to  drag. 
l-otected,  am'. 
Indspit  in  the 
32",  acconi- 
Idition  under 

ll  ruRgcd,  are 
r,  and  name: 
tt,  after  ihi: 


intrepid  explorer,  who  even  then,  unknown  to  us,  had  passed 
away  from  his  labors.  The  exaet  hci<;ht  of  this  mountain  is 
2,316  feet.  Danger  Peak,  just  north  of  Snug  Harbor,  in  the 
upper  end  of  the  bay,  was  2,roo  feet,  and  i,8co  feet  may  be 
taken  as  a  fair  average  of  these  peaks,  which  might  be  called 
the  Chukchec  Hills, 

The  inhabitants  of  the  peninsula  are  of  two  races,  —  the  Chuk- 
chees  proper  and  the  Tiiski,  a  branch  of  the  Innuit  stock,  who 
have  been  elsewhere  described. 

Tlic  Chi'ikchas  and  Koridks.  —  The  extreme  western  limit  of 
these  wandering  tribes  may  be  described  as  a  line  drawn  from 
Gijiga  to  Ni'jni  Kolymsk  on  the  Kolyma  River.  Their  south- 
ern boundary  is  about  the  fifty-sixth  degree  of  latitude.  The  two 
tribes  of  similar  stock  and  habits  may  be  considered  together. 
Tlie  Koriiiks  never  go  north  of  the  Anadyr  River,  while  bands 
of  Chukchees  may  occasionally  be  found  to  the  south  of  it.  Both 
arc  distinguished  by  physical  characteristics  from  the  Tunguses 
and  other  adjacent  tribes.  The  Chukchees  arc  a  fierce  and 
determined  people,  and  have  successfully  resisted  all  the  efforts 
of  the  Russians  to  impose  tribute  upon  them,  while  the  Koriaks 
have  abjectly  submitted  without  any  resistance.  The  features 
of  the  former  are  prominent,  their  hair  is  black  and  harsh,  and 
their  eyes  are  large  and  dark.  Their  complexion  is  light  yellow. 
The  Chukchees  call  themselves  Tsiitsiii,  from  which  the  word 
Chiikchee,  with  its  various  modes  of  spelling,  is  evidently  derived. 
They  live  during  the  entire  year  in  round  lodges  covered  with 
deerskins.  These  lodges  are  divided  into  comi^artments,  called 
I  in  Russian  pologs.  They  are  accustomed  to  sleep  without  cloth- 
ing. Their  parkies  are  of  deerskin,  with  the  edge  trimmed  with 
the  skins  of  beaver  or  otter,  and  the  hood  ornamented  with  the 
skin  of  the  dog's  tail.  Men  ami  women  wear  ear-rings,  and  prac- 
ti.sc  tattooing.  The  men  adopt  the  tonsure,  while  the  women  do 
up  ''--ir  hair  in  two  braids,  which  fall  nearly  over  the  eyes;  the 
remainder  is  left  in  a  tangletl  and  unkempt  condition.  They 
eradicate  the  beard  as  far  as  possible,  but  wear  a  light  mustache. 
The  bodies  of  the  dead  are  burned  after  cutting  open  the  breast, 
while  a  dog  or  deer  is  sacrificed  iluring  the  ceremony.  ICach 
head  of  a  family  performs  the  office  of  a  shaman.  Auguries  arc 
drawn,  while  killing  animals,  from  the  manner  and  direction  in 


ill 


'ij 


I  i 


I 


iJ 


I'li 
!■!■' 

'I 


514 


ADJACENT  TERRITORIES. 


which  they  fall.  They  are  said  to  make  sacrifices  to  invisible 
spirits,  of  whom  they  also  make  figures  or  idols.  The  Koriaks 
are  very  similar  in  these  respects.  Aquiline  noses  arc  not  un- 
common, presenting  quite  a  contrast  to  the  flat  faces  of  the 
Tiiski  and  other  liskimo  tribes.  Some  of  the  Koriaks,  like  .some 
of  the  Chukchees,  are  sedentary.  Their  language  is  said  to  be 
harsh,  but  of  very  limited  vocabulary. 

Hoth  tribes  are  noted  for  their  herds  of  tame  reindeer,  upon 
which  they  depend  for  their  subsistence.  They  go  with  their 
deer  wherever  there  is  forage,  and  their  wanderings  are  greatly 
determined  by  its  abundance  or  scarcity.  The  deer  are  carefully 
herded  and  always  watched  by  men  appointed  for  the  puri)ose. 
They  are  obliged  to  exercise  great  care  that  the  tame  deer  shall 
not  find  opportunity  to  stampede  with  the  immense  herds  of  wild 
deer  which  sweep  across  the  country  in  the  spring.  The  do- 
mesticated animals  are  piebald,  and  sometimes  even  pure  while. 
Their  skins  are  soft  and  of  great  bv.auty,  far  surpassing  those  of 
the  wild  deer.  The  Chukchees  tan  them  with  the  inner  bark  of 
the  willow,  and  thus  color  them  of  a  beautiful  red  brown. 

They  are  indefatigable  traders.  They  exchange  their  deerskins 
and  articles  obtained  from  the  Russians  for  oil,  ivory,  walrus- 
skins,  and  whalebone  with  the  Tuski.  The  latter  (not  the  Chiik 
chees,  as  stated  by  Ilartwig)  cross  Bering  Strait  and  trade  with 
the  Innuit,  and  at  Plover  Hay  with  the  American  traders.  The 
Chukchees  obtain  some  American  goods  from  the  Tiiski,  but  the 
major  portion  of  their  tobacco,  calico,  &c.,  is  purchased  at  a  fair 
held  on  an  island  in  the  Anui  River  every  year.  This  is  called 
the  Island  Fair  {Ostrovnoi).  It  is  held  in  the  spring,  and  at- 
tended by  hundreds  of  nomads  of  other  tribes.  It  is  superin- 
tended by  a  government  agent,  who  collects  a  small  market-tax 
for  the  Crown. 

The  Russians  celebrate  a  mass  after  all  preliminaries  have  been 
arranged,  and  the  hoisting  of  a  flag  on  the  tower  of  the  Ostro^' 
announces  the  opening  of  the  market.  At  this  sign,  the  Chuk- 
chees, armed  with  spears,  bows,  and  arrows,  advance,  and  form  a 
wide  semicircle  around  the  fort.  At  the  tolling  of  a  bell  the 
barter  commences.  The  furs  sold  by  the  natives  are  foxes,  lynxes, 
wolverine,  otter,  beaver,  and  American  martens.  They  also  sell 
mahout,  walrus  ivory,  bone  sledge-runners,  bearskins,  and  deer- 


n  visible 
Koriiiks 
not  un- 
;  of  the 
kc  some 
id  to  be 

er,  upon 
ilh  their 
;  greatly 
carefully 
purpose. 
,eer  shall 
Is  of  wild 
The  do- 
ire  white. 
;  those  of 
r  bark  of 
vn. 

deerskins 
r,  walriis- 
ic  Chuk- 
rade  with 
Icrs.     The 
i,  but  the 
.1  at  a  fail- 
is  called 
and  at- 
superin- 
larkct-tax 

liave  been 

|ic  dstro;4 

he  Chuk- 


ADJ.VCENT   TERRITORIES. 


515 


skin  clothing.  The  Russian  traders  bring  kettles,  knivcr.,  an  J 
other  iron  ware,  calicoes,  and  especially  Circassian  tobacco. 
During  the  fair,  foot-races,  dances,  and  other  festivities,  are  in- 
dulged in  by  the  natives.  The  Cluikchees  arc  fond  of  all  ath- 
letic sports,  and  despise  a  weak,  small,  or  deformed  person.  Of 
this,  Saur,  who  was  a  little  man,  gives  a  comical  account  in  his 
description  of  Hillings'  journey.  The  Chukchees  handled  him  so 
roughly,  on  his  first  visit  to  them  near  St.  Laurence  Hay,  that  he 
letiri.  1  in  otfendeil  dignity  to  the  shij:),  where  he  remained  until 
the  journey  began,  ovr-rland  to  the  Kolyma. 

The  Chukchees  are  said  to  kill  all  deformed  children  and  aged 
or  infirm  people,  and  human  sacrifices  are  not  unknown  among 
them.  They  carry  their  tents  or  iinniits  with  them  wherever 
they  go,  and  sometimes  travel  in  caravans  of  fifty  or  si.xly  fami- 
lies. They  are  exxeedingly  fond  of  tobacco,  and  liquor  which  is 
obtained  from  the  trailers  on  the  coast.  They  are  said  to  num- 
ber twenty  thousand,  and  the  Tiiski  ten  thousand,  yet  this  is 
probably  an  exaggeration.  The  Koriaks  are  estimated  at  about 
lour  thousand  five  hundred  souls.  Thi^y  are  said  by  Muller  to 
have  lived  in  huts  elevated  on  four  posts  above  the  ground,  enter- 
ing by  means  of  a  ladder  from  below. 

KainclidtkiX.  —  This  peninsula  diviiles  the  waters  of  the  Och(')tsk 
Sea  from  those  of  Hering  Sea.  The  climate  is  colder  than  that 
of  the  opposite  shores  of  the  latter,  which  is  partly  due  to  a  cold 
current  wiiich,  at  least  during  a  jiart  of  the  year,  flows  southward 
from  the  St/ait  along  tb  coast.  It  is  noted  for  the  number, 
height,  and  grandeur  of  its  volcanoes.  Their  rugged  sides  are 
covered  with  a  luxuriant  vegetation.  Along  the  banks  of  the 
numerous  streams,  a  dense  forest  is  sustained,  while  the  meadows 
which  occur  among  the  valleys  are  remarkable  for  the  vigor  and 
richness  of  their  herbage.  The  pasture -grounds  are  so  luxuriant 
that  grass  is  often  cut  throe  times  during  the  season.  The  woods 
abound  with  scpiirrels  and  the  most  valuable  sables.  On  the 
mountains,  bears,  wolves,  argali,  reintleer,  and  stone  foxes  are 
found.  Fish,  especially  salmon  and  herring,  abound  in  incteili- 
l)le  numbers.  In  a  small  cove  of  the  Bay  of  Avatcha,  two  white 
men,  with  the  help  of  a  few  women,  pre])ared  six  hundred  barrels 
)f  salmon  for  shipment  in  the  season  of  1865.  The  dogs,  wiiich 
arc  used  for  draught,  are  fed  solely  on  dry  fish,  and  their  daily 


^ 


I-'''. 


516 


ADJACENT  TERRITORIES. 


ration  is  a  single  salmon.  When  in  good  condition  they  will 
travel  on  good  roads  from  si.xty  to  one  hundred  miles  in  a  day. 
There  are  two  kinds  of  sledges  in  use,  of  which  one  is  long  and 
low,  used  only  for  carrying  goods  or  c"  long  journeys,  while  the 
other  is  high,  shaped  much  like  a  child's  rocking-horse,  and  is 
used  for  short  journeys.  The  dogs  are  guided  by  the  driver's 
voice,  aided  by  a  crooked  stick  calletl  an  "  ostle,"  which  he  throws 
at  them,  and  which  requires  much  dexterity  to  pick  up  when 
travelling  rapidly.  Five  dogs  will  carry  three  persons  and  sixty 
pounds  of  luggage  on  a  large  sled.  The  principal  rivers  of  Kam- 
chatka are  the  Bolshoya,  the  Avdk/ia,  and  the  Kaimhdtkii.  There 
are  sixty-three  volcanoes,  of  which  twenty  are  active.  Warm 
and  mineral  springs  are  not  uncommon.  The  mineral  wealth 
of  the  peninsula  has  not  been  in^'estigated.  The  princijjal  har- 
bors are  those  of  Lower  Kamchatka  at  the  mouth  of  the  river  of 
the  same  name,  and  Petropavlovsk  on  Niaki'na  Cove,  Avatcha 
Bay.  The  latter  is  a  most  magnificent  haven,  which  might  con- 
tain the  navies  of  the  world.  It  is  subject,  however,  to  small 
whirlwinds,  or  "  woolys,"  which  sometimes  render  navigation  in 
small  boats  dangerous.  Petropavlovsk  is  the  capital  of  Kamchatka, 
and  is  a  town  of  some  five  hundred  inhabitants.  It  is  principally 
noted  as  a  rendezvous  for  traders  and  for  the  defeat  of  the  Allies 
in  1854.  When  there  was  a  garrison  here,  the  population  num- 
bered fifteen  hundred,  but  the  removal  of  the  troops  to  the  mouth 
of  the  Amoor  River  in  1855  was  a  serious  blow  to  its  prosperity. 
There  are  only  some  two  hundred  Russians  in  the  peninsula. 
The  remainder  of  the  inhabitants  are  Kamshadales,  Yakuts,  and 
half-breeds.  To  the  north  the  Tungusi  or  Lamuts  occupy  a  laisc 
extent  of  territory  with  their  herds  of  deer.  At  the  mouth  of  the 
Avatcha  River  is  a  small  settlement,  which  I  visited  in  1865. 
Here  are  numerous  herds  of  small  cattle,  which  give  abundance 
of  rich  milk.  Potatoes  are  raised,  though  not  of  very  large  size, 
yet  in  considerable  quantities.  These,  with  a  little  barley,  tur- 
nips, lettuce,  &c.,  compose  the  agricultural  products.  Ikrries 
are  abundant.  Many  ducks  were  seen  in  the  Avatcha  delta,  and 
auks,  divers,  and  murrcs  abound  on  the  rocky  cliffs  of  the  coast, 
The  Kamshadales  arc  expert  in  procuring  their  eggs  by  suspend- 
ing themselves  over  the  precipice  and  drawing  themselves  in  by 
means  of  a  crooked  pole. 


A  I)J  ACE N T   Ti:  K K 1  TO  K I  liS. 


5>7 


hey  will 
n  a  clay, 
long  and 
^vhilc  the 
;,  and  is 
!  driver's 
le  throws 
up  when 
\\u\  sixty 
of  Kam- 
(?.   There 
.     Warm 
\\  wealth 
:ipal  har- 
2  river  of 
Avatcha 
light  con- 
to  small 
gation  in 
inichatka, 
rinciiJally 
the  Allies 
ion  num- 
le  mouth 
rosperity. 
)eninsiila. 
iiits,  and 
ly  a  larj;c 
nth  of  the 
in    1S65. 
hundance 
arge  size, 
irley,  tur- 
Bcrries 
delta,  and 
the  coast, 
suspcnd- 
ves  in  by 


The  Kamchatkan  lily  {Fritillaria  savnxiui),  or  Sarnina,  has  a 
tuberous  root,  which  is  an  article  of  diet  with  the  natives.  A 
species  of  fungus  called  mmhauior  afVords  a  kind  of  stimulant,  and 
is  also  an  article  of  trade  with  the  more  northern  tribes.  The 
roots  of  the  wild  parsnip  {Anliaiigilica)  are  distilled,  and  a  kiml 
of  spirit  made  from  them.  The  population  of  the  i)eninsula  is 
about  seven  thousand. 

The  KavislunhUcs.  —  The  original  inhabitants  of  the  peninsula 
are  much  reduced  in  numbers  since  the  Russian  contiuest.  \'io- 
lence,  disease,  and  the  presence  of  a  superior  race,  have  swept 
them  away  in  large  numbers.  Their  characters  are  much  changed 
by  contact  with  the  Ku.ssians.  Those  in  the  vicinity  of  Penjinsk 
have  preserved  their  language  with  the  least  corruption  of  any. 
The  name  Kamchatka  is  derived,  according  to  some  authors,  from 
the  Chukchee  "  Krc-kainchatKwi"  meaning  demons. 

The  Kamshadales  are  broatl  and  stout,  but  of  medium  height. 
They  have  prominent  cheek-bones,  broad  and  projecting  jaws, 
small  noses,  full  lij)s,  and  black  hair.  Their  complexion  is  light 
yellowish,  with  much  color.  The  women  are  said  to  purify  their 
complexion  by  sticking,  with  fish  glue,  gut  parchment,  made 
from  the  intestines  of  the  bear,  upon  their  faces.  They  also  rub 
their  cheeks  with  a  red  sea-weed  in  place  of  rouge.  They  are 
remarkably  healthy,  and  attain  a  good  old  age.  Some  of  the 
girls  whom  I  saw  were  well  formed,  pretty,  and  attractive.  They 
keep  their  houses  very  clean,  and  are  neat  about  their  persons. 
The  men  gain  their  living  by  fishing  and  trapping  sables.  I'or 
the  latter  they  obtain,  at  Petropavluvsk,  from  eighteen  to  twenty 
dollars  apiece  in  goods.  The  traders  are  frequently  obliged  to 
advance  tea,  sugar,  tlour,  tobacco,  and  brandy  to  the  natives  in 
the  summer,  and  to  keep  a  bright  lookout  lest  the  cunning  Kam- 
shadiile  sell  his  furs,  during  the  winter,  to  some  one  else.  They 
pay  their  taxes,  and  obtain  the  above-mentioned  articles,  with 
clothing  and  utensils,  by  the  i)roduct  of  their  traps.  l'\ir  other 
fotjcl  they  rely  on  the  fish  aiul  game,  for  few  of  them  nrc  suf- 
ficiently active  to  keep  cattle  or  cultivate  the  ground.  All  of 
them  arc  baptized,  but,  as  usual  among  Greek  converts,  they 
retain  many  of  their  old  superstitions.  They  are  intelligent,  good- 
natured,  hospitable,  and  witty,  but  indolent,  and  not  always  honest. 
The  snowshoes  worn  in  Kamchatka  are  made  on  the  Norwegian 


\, 


m 


"^ 


\f- 


:,1J 


5'8 


ADJACENT   TEKRITOKIES. 


pattern,  covered  with  sealskin,  and  esteemed  as  very  valuable. 
There  are  a  few  horses  at  I'etropavluvsk,  but  most  of  the  travLJ- 
linj,'  is  done  with  boats  or  dogs.  The  women  are  noted  for  their 
fine  needlework,  and  some  of  the  Kamshadale  parkies  are  of  great 
beauty  and  no  little  value.    The  embroidery  is  usually  done  in  silk. 

The  Tmii^usi  or  Lami'its.  —  These  tribes  range  over  an  im- 
mense e.xtent  of  territory,  reaehing  from  Lake  Baikal  to  Kam- 
chatka and  the  mouth  of  the  Amoor,  and  from  the  shores  of  the 
Arctic  Ocean  to  the  Ochotsk  i-'ea  and  the  Chinese  borders.  They 
take  their  name  from  the  Tunguska  or  Ang;ira  River,  where 
they  were  first  met  with  by  the  invading  Russians  in  1640. 
They  are,  of  course,  nomadic,  and  arc  distinguished  as  Reindeer, 
Morse,  Dog,  Forest,  and  River  Tungiisi,  according  to  their  mode 
of  life  and  domestic  animals.  Most  of  them  have  tame  reindeer, 
but  horses  and  cattle  are  not  uncommon.  They  arc  said  to  number 
thirty  thousand,  and  were  formerly  much  more  numerous,  but  are 
yearly  declining  from  diseases  introduced  by  the  Russians.  The 
unfortunate  Tunguse  who  may  lose  his  reindeer  by  wolves  or 
sickness  is  reduced  to  a  most  miserable  condition.  Nothing  is 
secure  from  these  outcasts,  who  have  sometimes  been  reduced  to 
cannibalism,  and  are  hunted  down  like  wild  beasts  by  their  more 
fortunate  countrymen.  The  Tungiisi  are  noted  for  their  wit, 
jovial  manner,  and  good  temper.  They  are  exceedingly  intelli- 
gent, hut  malicious  and  deceitful.  They  arc  vain,  and  fond  of 
beads  and  other  ornamcnt.s.  While  hunting  the  reindeer  they 
dress  in  deerskins,  laying  aside  their  finery,  and  wear  water-proof 
boots  to  keep  out  the  dampness  of  the  tundri.  They  are  expert 
with  gun  and  sling,  or  in  the  use  of  the  bow.  They  veil  their 
eyes  from  the  snow  glare  with  a  black  horse-hair  net.  They  are 
extremely  bold  and  courageous,  meeting  the  bear  in  single  com- 
bat with  only  a  knife. 

The  nomadic  Tunguse  uses  a  tent  of  .skins  or  soft,  pliable  bark, 
which  is  easily  transported.  The  house  of  the  sedentary  Tun- 
giise  is  very  small,  and  heated  by  a  fire  built  on  a  stone  hearth  in 
the  centre.  Their  food  is  obtained  from  their  herds,  or  consists 
of  fish,  berries,  and  game.  A  favorite  dish,  as  with  the  Norton 
Sound  Innuit,  consists  of  the  half-digested  contents  of  the  rein- 
deer's stomach,  mixed  with  fat  and  berries.  Many  of  them  use 
the  "  brick  "  tea,  which  they  obtain  from  the  Chinese. 


loi;ical 


ADJACKNT   TKKRITORIICS. 


519 


'aluablo. 
l;  travcl- 
for  their 
of  groat 
;;  in  silk, 
an   iin- 
o  Karn- 
es of  the 
s.   They 
-,   where 
in    1640. 
Icindeer, 
nr  mode 
reindeer, 
)  number 
;,  but  are 
ns.     Tlie 
/olvcs  or 
othinj;  is 
,'duced  to 
leir  more 
heir  wit, 
y  intelli- 
fond  of 
cor  they 
tcr-proof 
re  expert 
veil  their 
They  are 
igle  com- 

iblc  bark, 
ary  Tun- 
hearth  in 
r  consists 
e  Norton 
the  rcin- 
thcm  use 


They  dress  the  dead  in  their  best  clothes,  and  hang  them  in 
large  chests  between  two  trees.  The  weapons  of  the  deceased 
are  buried  under  the  body.  A  reindeer  is  sacrificed  during  the 
ceremony.  Their  religion  consists  of  a  belief  in  shamanism,  and 
hut  few  are  even  nominal  Christians.  They  anciently  worshipped 
wooden  idols  called  L)itl-i\.<ait.  They  purchase  their  wives  for 
twenty  or  a  hundred  reindeer  from  the  parents,  or  serve,  like 
Jacob,  many  years  for  them.  They  excel  in  athletic  exercise, 
ckmcing,  and  chess-playing.  They  are  the  best  of  travellers, 
and  arc  the  usual  companions  of  a  journey  in  Eastern  Siberia. 
Tliey  visit  annually  the  fairs  which  are  held  in  all  the  Siberian 
towns.  They  are  of  medium  height,  Tartar  features,  and  light 
yellow  complexion.* 

7'/if  Vii/xiii^iri.  —  The  tribe  commonly  known  by  this  name 
are  said  by  Saur  to  call  themselves  Aiidon  tiomiii  and  are  about 
eight  hundred  in  number.  They  occupy  the  country  between  the 
Chukchecs  and  the  Yakuts,  especially  on  the  Kolyma  River. 
They  arc  believed  to  consist  of  the  remnants  of  some  of  the 
l)riniitivc  Siberian  nations.  They  have  been  greatly  reduced  by 
the  small-pox,  and  also  by  their  frequent  wars  with  other  tribes. 
They  have  black  eyes  and  hair,  pale  and  regular  features.  They 
are  said  to  carry  the  bones  of  their  deceased  relatives  about  with 
them,  especially  when  hunting.  In  manners  and  customs  they 
much  resemble  the  Tungusi.  They  formerly  were  entirely  sup- 
ported by  their  deer,  but  many  of  them,  who  have  lost  their 
herds,  live  by  hunting  and  fishing.  With  them  are  included  some 
small  bands  known  as  C/tinuiiifscs. 

The  Yok-iits.  —  The  traditions  of  this  great  Semitic  colony 
point  to  an  origin  near  Tunguska  River  and  Lake  Baikal.  At 
present  they  occupy  the  territory  about  the  Lena,  as  far  south  as 
the  Aldan,  eastward  to  the  Kolyma,  and  westward  to  the  Yenisei. 
They  are  nearly  two  hundred  thousand  in  number,  and  form 
ahiiost  the  entire  population  of  the  Yakutsk  District.  Tiicir 
language  bears  a  near  relationship  to  the  Turkish,  while  they 
are  said  to  be  of  "Mongolian"  features.  This  is  one  more  item 
in  the  long  list  of  fiicts  which  show  the  worthlcssness  of  physio- 
logical characters  as  evitlences  of  relationship  between  nations. 

Their  capital  is  at  Yakutsk.     They  arc  an  essentially  pastoral 

*  Most  of  these  details  in  reference  to  the  Tungusi  and  V.iii.'its  are  from  Ilartwig. 


Ill 


f 


5^0 


ADJACICXT  Tr.RRIT(^RIF.S. 


people,  and  live  on  the  products  of  their  hcnls  of  cattle  and  horses, 
though  sonic  of  the  more  northern  bands  are  reduced  to  herdin;,' 
reindeer. 

Those  whom  I  have  seen  were  remarkal)le  for  their  small  eyes 
and  noses,  exceedingly  prominent  cheek-hones,  stilll"])lack  hair,  and 
diminutive  size  of  most  of  the  nicnd)ers  of  the  body.  Their  civ- 
ilization is  of  a  high  character  in  the  cities,  but  many  of  the 
lower  classes  are  little  above  the  other  northeast  Siberian  nomads 
in  intelligence.  They  are  of  a  reserved  and  somewhat  gloomy 
disposition,  but  hospitable  and  generous.  Many  of  their  villages 
are  very  small,  and  to  the  north  the  solitary  huts  are  many  miks 
apart,  so  that  the  nearest  neighbors  see  each  other  perhaps  only 
once  in  several  years.  In  summer  the  herdsmen  live  in  conical 
tents  made  of  birch-bark  spread  over  light  poles.  Their  principal 
occupation  during  this  season  is  haying.  In  winter  they  live  in 
yourts,  or  low,  pyramidal  log  huts  covered  with  turf  and  with  slabs 
of  pure  ice  for  windows.  As  the  weather  grows  warmer,  these 
are  replaced  by  the  translucent  bladders  of  fish,  or  oiled  paper. 
The  floor  is  generally  below  the  surface  of  the  ound  ;  the  fire  is 
built  on  a  stone  hearth  in  the  middle  of  the  yi  t,  and  the  smoke 
escapes  through  a  hole  in  the  roof  They  buiitl  stables  for  their 
horned  cattle,  but  in  very  cold  weather  the  more  valuable  cows 
may  find  refuge  in  the  family  yourt. 

Their  horses,  though  of  small  si/ce,  have  great  powers  of  endur- 
ance, and  remain  without  shelter  during  the  most  severe  weather, 
feeding  on  the  dry  herbage  which  they  dig  with  their  hoofs  from 
under  the  snow.  These  animals  travel  thirty  or  forty  miles  with- 
out rest,  and  arc  admirably  suited  to  the  country.  The  Yakuts 
make  excellent  mechanics,  and  are  hard  to  excel  in  driving  a 
bargain.  They  are,  as  a  rule,  saving  and  industrious,  and  some- 
times amass  large  fortunes,  at  least  large  for  that  part  of  the  workl. 
Their  nationality  is  exceedingly  energetic,  and  not  only  do  they 
retain  their  own  language  and  customs  almost  unchanged,  but 
the  Russians  long  resident  among  them,  many  of  whom  have 
married  Yakut  women,  have  also  adoj^ted  their  national  tongue. 
In  ingenuity  they  surpass  all  other  Siberian  nations,  and  their 
leather-work  and  some  of  their  manufactures  of  iron  would  do 
credit  to  the  most  skilful  European  artisan.  Long  before  the 
Russian  conquest  they  manufactured  their  own  knives  and  axes 


ADJACENT  TERRITORIES. 


Sai 


1  horsLN, 
herding' 

lall  eyes 
liair,  anil 
luir  civ- 
y  of  the 
iioiiKuls 
j;lc)()niy 
•  villaj^os 
iny  miles 
laps  only 
n  conical 
principal 
cy  live  ill 
vith  slabs 
icr,  these 
L'd  paper, 
the  fire  is 
he  smoke 
;  for  Iheir 
ible  cows 

of  endiir- 
weathcr, 
oofs  from 
cs  with- 
Yakuts 
rivinj,'  a 
(1  some- 
nc  worlil. 
do  they 
nged,  but 
om  have 
tongue. 
and  their 
would  do 
)cforc  the 
and  axes 


from  the  ore  found  on  the  Wilna  These  articles,  cither  from  the 
tiiiighness  of  the  metal  or  the  method  of  manufacture,  sustain  the 
greatest  cold  without  that  liability  to  break  which  marks  the  l-'.u- 
ropean  iron  and  steel.  Their  leather  is  perfectly  wa'er-tight,  and 
the  carpets  woven  by  the  women  arc  even  exported  to  iCuropc. 
They  arc  excellent  hunters  and  trappers,  and  untiring  in  the 
chase.  Many  of  them  arc  great  gluttons.  Sir  George  Simpson 
mentions  an  instance  where  two  of  them  devoured  seventy-two 
piuuuls  of  beef  and  thirty-six  of  melted  butter  at  a  sitting.  One 
was  old  and  experienced,  the  other  young  and  zealous.  At  first 
the  latter  had  the  advantage,  "  I  lis  teeth  are  good,  but  witii  the 
assistance  of  my  patron  saint,"  said  the  old  man,  crossing  him- 
self, "I  will  soon  come  up  with  him!"  It  is  saitl  that  at  the 
Yakut  weddings  some  of  these  professional  gormandizers  are  in- 
vited for  the  amusement  of  the  guests.  Their  favorite  food  is 
horsetlesh,  and  sour  mare's-milk,  called  kooniiss,  is  their  favorite 
beverage.  A  favorite  dish  called  .vr?/(/w<i/ is  composed  of  a  mix- 
ture of  rye  flour,  koomiss,  the  inner  bark  of  the  larch,  fat,  dry 
fish,  and  berries. 

They  make  clothing  of  the  skins  of  their  horses,  and  nets  from 
liorscb  lir.  They  catch  fish  in  ctipor^,  or  fish-traps,  much  like 
those  of  the  Yukon  Ingaliks.  They  are  inveterate  drunkards 
when  the  can  procure  liquor,  and  devoted  to  the  use  of  tobacco. 
Kast  of  the  Lena,  they  are  the  universal  carriers,  and  travelling 
in  this  part  of  Siberia  would  be  almost  impossible  without  the 
Yakut  and  his  horse. 

They  arc  tough  and  enduring,  and  fear  no  amount  of  cold 
or  exposure,  while  they  support  the  pangs  of  hunger  with  the 
utmost  fortitude.  Their  powers  of  vision  are  remarkable,  and 
some  of  them  have  been  said  to  be  able  to  distinguish  the 
satellites  of  Jupiter  with  the  naked  eye.  Their  memory  is 
wonderful,  and  every  bush  and  hillock  on  the  journey  is  remem- 
Iiercd  as  a  guide  for  the  future.  They  wear  many  ornaments. 
Their  parkies  are  adorned  with  fringes,  beads,  and  embroidery. 
They  are  fond  of  music,  but  their  songs  are  melancholy  and 
usually  devoted  to  the  objects  of  nature  around  them  or  some 
of  their  national  superstitions.  IMany  of  them  are  nominal  Chris- 
tians, but  the  belief  in  shamanism  is  nearly  as  strong  as  ever. 
The  spirit  of  the  woods  is  called  Lics/ii,  and  the  Yakut  is  accus- 


r  ^■j*"'^ 


i 


'■' 


ii! 


5: 


ADjACKNT  ti:kkitorii:& 


tomcd  to  propitiate  him  by  nttarhiii;;  a  few  hairs  from  his  horse's 
maiic  to  some  sohtary  tn-e.  The  use  of  the  };iin  has  not  en- 
tirely siipi)lai)te(i  tlial  of  the  l)vtw,  ami  th(;y  curry  a  weapon  hke  a 
si:ythe  hlatle,  attached  to  a  straight  pole.  They  are  a  carnivorous 
race ;  thouj^h  wheat  matines  near  Yakutsk,  they  si)ciul  Uttlc 
time  in  euUivatinj;  the  j^round. 

They  were  said  by  Miiiler  to  call  themselves  Ziii':.iik/iii,  from 
the  name  of  one  of  their  ancient  princes.  Tiu-y  did  not  worship 
wooden  idols,  hut  made  a  stufled  doll  which  they  luni};  on  a  tree 
and  regarded  as  an  impersonation  of  an  invisible  spirit.  Their 
shamiins  were  called  />'///////, and  very  anciently  they  killed  or  lunied 
alive  the  servants  of  their  important  chi(;fs  after  the  death  of  the 
latter.  Some  of  their  dead  wi-re  left  exposed  or  covere<l  with  a 
hide,  some  were  put  in  a  l)o.\  elevated  on  four  jiosls,  and  others 
were  buried.  They  boU[;ht  tluir  wives  from  the  parents,  ami 
allowed  poly}j;amy.  They  weri-  dividi-d  into  eij;ht  tribes,  each  ol 
which  hail  some  bird  or  animal  which  they  re};arded  as  saircd, 
and  would  not  eat.  Their  new  year  be^an  in  Apiil,  at  whiih 
time  tlu-y  were  accustomed  to  sacrifice  horses  or  cattle,  hanj;iiiij 
the  heads  and  skins  upon  trees.  Most  of  these  ancient  customs 
have  lon;^  since  passed  away. 


Th 


ere  were  man 


y  \'akuts  amon^-  the  servants  of  the  Russ 


tail 


Ami-rican  Company  in  Northwi-st  America. 

'I'ltc  Maiiilu'ios.  —  These  are  a  Tartar  people  who  live  on  the 
bar.ks  of  the  Anioor  and  aloni^  thi-  borders  of  .Siberia.  They  arc 
closi'ly  allied   in   laii^ua^c,  maniu-rs,  and  customs  to  the  Chinese. 

The  (iltlliidx.  — These  are  also  a  Tartar  race  whp  iid.abit  pul 
of  the  country  near  the  mouth  of  the  Amoor  and  on  Sakli.ll 
Island.     They  are  n-presentcd  as  a  very  intelli<;ent  |)eopli'  \vl 


III 


III 


fir 


havt!  readily  adopti'd  Russian  manneis  and  ei\'ili/.atiou.  'I'll 
l;ni};uaj^e  is  almost  monosyllabic.  'I'hey  are  said  to  livt;  almosi 
exclusively  on  fish,  but  arc  also  j^ood  hunters.  They  lall  tlniii 
selves  iiliilicn  or  Kilcii,  and  thiir  appearance  reseud)les  that  c! 
other  Tartar  tribes. 

Ai-(iii. — This  is  a  small  territory   on   tin-  west   coast   of  the 
()ch(')tsk  .Sea.      It  was  formerly  under  the  control  of  the   Uussi.ui 


American  Coin[)any.     It  had  a  };overnor  ap|)ointed  by  the  Cr 
and  is  one  of  the  best   ports  on  tlu;  ()chi')tsk  .Sea.      It  is  noted 
the  (piality  of  the  sables  which  are  obtained  there. 


own, 


lor 


Tin-  J 

fldlll  till 
iif  the    i 
lias  beei 
Till')'  ai( 
railed     ) 
llie  colli 
I'loin 
iiierly  ob 
///<•  .  /. 
ili'e<l    ii.iti 
iiiirlliern 
liiiiiicily 
jaji.nicsc 
"",1  11.   c. 
is  very  ini 
Minil.ir  to 
Mielil    'I'a 
Sieixilil  s;i 
llie   llei^li 
llie  Tim;;!! 
Tin-    .\i, 
laille    kiio\ 
I'eeil  subje 
■111(1    those 
■lllese,   who 
They    a I 
I'load    f.n-e 
The  check 
llieiV  luM\' 
I  he  sc,i!|)  ,11 


*   I'hiM    (lie 
>'"'ll'lll.iiv,    su 

I-Mic   ,,(■    ,|„, 

' 'il'lv    (.(    Ill, 

ilKilnl,  even    ;1 

I'^l-i.llC  (lUIIIIK 
'  ■>.     K.llll^ll.| 
I  '  ill'l,  Inii,^   |,|,„ 
'l'"Min||.lii|f    ,Si 


ADJACKNT   TKKKITOKIK.S. 


5  •■'3 


Tlw  Ki'irilt'  hlntufs. — '!  lu-sc  islaiuls  form  a  chain,  c.\ti'i\(lin^ 
fiiim  tin-  cxtii'iuity  ol"  the  pciunsula  of  Kamcliatka  to  tlu-  viiinity 
III'  tlu:  island  of  Vcsso,  of  the  Japan  aiihipflago.  The  nanjc 
has  hccn  said  to  be  iK  rivrd  iVoin  the  kuss'an  Xv/z/n/,  to  sinoki-. 
Tluy  arc  mostly  of  small  si/.e,  and  without  tin-.;.  I'hc  laij^cr  aw. 
cilK'd  Y('fiivf>,  Yiiriif',  and  J\iriviiiis/iir.  'I'l^-y  wore  also  uniler 
till'  control  ol"  the  late   Russian   American  Company. 

I'lom  tluin  some  bear,  fur-seal,  and  sea-'.)ttcr  skins  weie  lor- 
mcily  obtained. 

T/iv  Ahii'S.  —  The  Kurile  Islands  are  inhabited  by  a  lew  hun- 
iliiil  natives  belon;^inj;'  to  a  nation  wli.eh  is  also  found  on  the 
northern  point  of  Sakh.ilin  Island,  on  the  island  of  Vesso,  and 
fniinerly  on  the  southwest  coast  of  the  K  niichatkan  peninsula, 
l.ip.inese  historians  made  mention  of  ihis  people'  in  tlu;  year 
(>(i^  II.  c.  Thrv  call  themselves.//////  or  .lino.  Their  lan^uaj;e 
is  very  inipi'rieetly  known,  yet  some  authors  have  stated  that  it  is 
Miiiil.n"  to  that  of  the  nortlu'rn   inhabitants  of  \'esso  or  to  the  ad- 


.1(1 


nt    i'artar  trilu's,  such  as  the   Manehi'ios  and  (ihiliak 


(in 


.SuhoKl  says  th.it  the  roots  of  the  l.mj^ua.m:  dilfer  from  those  of 
the  nei};hborinj;  dialects,  and  he  delinitely  separates  them  iVoni 
till-  'run[;usi  and  Kams.hadales. 

riic  .\inos  have  ^;reali)'  diminished  in  numbers  sinre  they  be- 
uiuu:  known  to  I' uiopi-ai.s.  Tho.se  on  the  Kurile  isl.mds  have 
Ihiii  subjeel  to  Riissia  since  17,^6.  Those  on  thi;  isknul  of  Vesso 
■iiiil  those  on   .S.d<li.ilin    were  Ion;.;'  siuii-  eoncjuered  by   tl>e  Ja[)- 


aiU'se, 


who  titatcd  ihcm  with  j'reat  severit 


)• 


Thiy  are  of  li;;hl  comiilexion,  with  hori/ontally  placed  eyes, 
I'load  fu:es,  prominent  noses,  I.ui^e  ears,  and  a  medium  mouth. 
The  cheek-bones  are  not  [)rominent,  and  they  aie  remark. d)le  for 
ihiir  he. ivy  beards  and  p;reat  development  of  hair,  not  only  on 
ihc  sc.ilp  and  e^i  blows,  b.il  all  oxer  the  body.* 

*  Ihiii    llic   .iliii\c'  1  li.ii  u  Ii-ii''!ii  •<   ii'.V/r,  «illiniii   .1   kiiiiw  liil^;f  nl  llio  ^;i,imiu.ii  or 
I'i'.il'iil.ii V,   suii,  •   illii»i>l(i|.'i>il.H    Im\c    imii|it(l    111    ihi-   ^l.iitliiig   miiiiusiuh   lli.'.l    lluy 
I'  .Uv.iiii!     'I'lic   li.iiiiiicss  III  iiiiily,    llii>iiy',l>    nut    i|iiilf   sii  k'^''I'>   '^   luiliiil   .iiiiolig 


'iiu'  III    till-    Iiuuiit   nil 


Its  11!    Ihi 


n  ill  II. I,   wliili'  ,111)1111^   iillicr  trilii's,    iiiii|ii('s 


"ii.iMv  III   till' 


oiiL'iii,    iliii'i  llv    .ul|.ii  ml    .UK 


III    .iliiiii~.i    iili mil  .1 


'■iili'it,  fvin   !lif  I'.iii^t.ii  lif  Is  nut  (li\i.lii|uil.      \\\v  iiiniiiiMi'iit   iiumi'i  .>i 


1(1   liiin/iiii 


t.il 


lus  .in-  t  iiiiiilliil\  .11111111^  till'  Ililii'S  III    Ni)itlu'.l->liill    .Silui  i.l,  t-NlKi  i.ilK   till'  iMir  (   liiik- 


K.iinili.iilAli 


Vi.k, 


^illlil.ll    iiililM'    III    Ir.l-Mijlill^,    on    ill 


nil 


lll'.^  Il 


l.licil  lllf   \  .ikuls  (ImW  klliiWi.  ti 


I  IK'  1  III: 


siK  .illinl  til  lllf  'I'm  ks  .mil  1  '  nil- 


•|iiLhiiiMi.iiili'  .Semitic  tiii^in)  .iinong  llic  Mungoi.s  wiili  tlic  fi|n.illN  di^iiiivi  WiU.igirit 


11 

\  ■.: 

nr 

J " 

w 

i^l 

' ' 


I 


524 


ADJACENT  TERRITORIES. 


The  women  tattoo  the  upper  lip,  and  sometimes  the  lower  one. 
They  pierce  the  ears,  and  wear  beads  or  silver  rings  in  them. 
They  sometimes  wear  their  hair  uncut,  and  sometimes  cut  it  off 
in  front.  They  dress  in  furs,  sealskins,  and  the  bark  of  trees, 
which  is  twisted  into  strings  for  the  purpose.  They  bury  the 
dead  on  their  backs,  at  full  length,  enclosed  in  boxes.  They  weep 
and  grieve  for  the  dead  very  bitterly,  even  to  the  little  children. 

The  name  of  the  djad  person  is  never  mentioned  ;  such  an 
act  would  be  considered  the  greatest  rudeness.  The  husband's 
younger  brother  marries  the  widow,  either  for  life,  or  until  some 
one  else  asks  her  in  marriage. 

A  widower  may  marry  again  in  a  month,  but  a  widow  is  ex- 
pected to  remain  single  somewhat  longer.  There  are  no  mar- 
riage ceremonies.  The  husband  does  not  purchase  his  wife,  but 
serves  her  parents.  They  have  from  one  to  three  wives.  They 
think  little  of  matrimonial  infidelities,  yet,  according  to  other  au- 
thors, such  give  rise  to  duels  fought  with  clubs,  or  the  transgressor 
pays  for  his  faalt  by  such  restitution  as  the  husband  demands. 
Until  childbirth  the  wife  remains  in  the  family  ;  after  delivery, 
she  lives  apart  for  a  month.  They  reckon  time  by  moons  or  sea- 
sons. When  sickness  occurs  a  dog  is  sacrificed,  as  among  the 
Chiikchees.  Their  religion  is  probably  a  belief  in  shamanism,  as 
among  the  adjacent  tribes.  They  travel  with  dogs  in  winter,  and 
also  eat  them.  The  dog  is  their  principal  domestic  animal,  as 
they  do  not  keep  cattle  or  cultivate  the  ground. 

They  catch  rats  in  trap: ,  but  do  not  eat  them.  The  Japanese 
have  introduced  cats  amc.ig  them.  They  are  accustomed  to  tear 
the  cubs  of  the  bear,  and  when  full  grown  to  make  a  feast,  kill, 
and  eat  them. 

They  have  but  recently  acquired  the  use  of  iron  tools  and  weap- 
ons. Formerly  they  used  implements  of  stone  or  bone.  They 
use  the  root  of  the  edible  lily,  and  eat  eggs  and  fish.     They  de- 

and  other  tribes,  simply  because  they  had  small  eyes  and  projecting  cheek•bone^ 
The  words  of  Whitney  are  api)licable,  when,  speaking  of  the  Scytliian  family,  ho  s.iy.-, 
"  It  is  to  no  small  extent  those  who  know  least  in  detail  of  the  languages  of  the  f.ini- 
ilv  who  are  most  ready  to  assert  and  defend  their  historical  connection  "  ;  and,  agaii;. 
in  reference  to  the  so-called  "  Turanian ''  family,  "  Such  a  sweeping  and  whoksa't 
conglomeration,  at  the  present  stage  of  progress  of  linguistic  research,  is  wholly  ui: 
scientific,  and  of  no  authority  or  value.  It  represents  only  a  want  of  detailed  knowl- 
edge, and  a  readiness  to  give  way  to  loose  and  unscrupulous  theorizing,  on  the  par: 
of  its  authors." 


ADJACENT   TERRITORIES. 


525 


pcnd  in  great  part  on  the  latter  for  food.  The  above  facts  refer 
to  those  living  upon  Sakhalin  Island.  There  are  said  to  be  about 
two  thousand  five  hundred  cf  them. 

The  houses  of  the  Yesso-Ainos  are  rectangular,  with  a  porch 
about  eight  feet  broad  in  front.  They  are  built  of  small  poles, 
fastened  with  strips  of  bark  and  covered  with  straw.  Under  the 
eaves  are  holes  which  serve  as  windows.  They  generally  consist 
of  one  room,  but  they  are  sometimes  divided  by  partitions.  There 
are  no  floors,  but  the  sand  is  covered  with  mats,  and  there  is  a 
platform  on  one  side  where  the  inmates  lounge  or  sleep.  The 
fire  is  made  in  the  centre,  and  there  are  usually  fish  hung  up 
over  it  to  smoke.  Altogether  the  huts  much  resemble  the  Tun- 
gi'isc  yourts,  but  are  less  solidly  built.  They  store  their  fish  in  a 
cache  not  unlike  those  in  use  among  the  Yukon  Indian. 

Fish  are  caught  in  nets  made  of  twisted  bark.  The  twine 
made  in  this  way  is  woven  into  a  kind  of  cloth,  of  which  clothing 
is  made.  Young  children  go  naked,  and  older  ones  are  only  pro- 
vided with  a  long  jacket. 

They  are  fond  of  bear-hunting,  and  preserve  the  skulls  as 
trophies.  Their  arrows  are  made  of  wood  and  reeds  pointed 
with  bamboo,  and  they  are  said  to  poison  them.  They  consider 
it  as  a  disgrace  to  part  with  their  weapons.  They  carry  short 
knives,  but  rely  principally  on  their  bows  and  arrows  in  hunting 
the  bear  and  deer.  They  use  snowshoes,  which  are  made  with  a 
wooden  frame  and  covered  with  deerskin.  The  lips  of  the  women 
are  tattooed  after  marriage.  They  also  tattoo  the  back  of  the 
hands  and  other  parts  of  the  body.  They  cultivate  millet  and 
potatoes,  an  art  probably  learned  from  the  Japanese.  They  use 
deerskin  dresses.  They  have  many  deities,  but  address  most  of 
their  prayers  to  fire.  They  do  not  buy  their  wives,  but  make 
presents  to  the  parents.  Their  only  feast  is  at  the  beginning 
of  the  new  year,  when  they  make  offerings  to  all  their  gods.  A 
man  can  have  only  one  wife,  but  any  number  of  concubines,  each 
of  whom  lives  in  a  separate  house.  When  a  wife  dies,  the  house 
in  which  she  lived  is  burned.  The  body  of  a  dead  man  is  clothed 
in  white  and  buried  in  a  sort  of  box  in  the  ground  with  the  head 
tJ  the  east.  They  have  no  written  characters,  but  are  said  to 
convey  information  by  means  of  notched  sticks.  They  have  no 
notion  of  a  future  state.     They  keep  fowls  and  eat  wild  birds,  but 


IH. 


'i- 


526 


ADJACENT   TERRITORIES. 


'Illtl 


i  i' 


!l!ll 


not  eggs.  They  average  about  live  feet  two  inches  in  height, 
are  broad-chested,  well  made,  and  have  a  fine  appearance  com- 
pared with  the  Japanese.  Their  eyes  are  always  black,  and  tiiei: 
hair  is  of  the  same  color.  They  are  active  and  fond  of  work, 
seldom  suffering  from  sickness.  The  Kiirile-Ainos  are  very  few 
in  number.  They  live  almost  entirely  on  fish,  and  are  fond  of 
travelling  from  island  to  island  in  their  boats.  They  are  noted 
for  their  mildness,  quiet  manners,  hospitality,  and  general  good- 
will toward  strangers  and  each  other. 

The  little  knowledge  *  which  we  do  possess  with  regard  to  this 
interesting  people  makes  us  regret  that  we  know  no  more.  They 
have  probably  adopted  many  customs  from  their  Japanese  con- 
querors. Without  a  grammar  or  vocabulary  of  their  language, 
any  theories  in  regard  to  their  origin  are  mere  speculation.  The 
Japanese  consider  them  to  be  descended  from  the  original  inhabi- 
tants of  the  islands,  who,  according  to  the  Japanese  records,  were 
conquered  by  the  former  about  the  year  600  of  the  Christian  era. 
Many  of  their  habits  and  customs  appear  similar  to  those  of  the 
northeastern  races  of  Asia. 

A^ikoldiffsk.  —  This  town  is  situated  near  the  mouth  of  the 
Amoor.  It  owes  its  principal  importance  to  the  trade  of  that 
river  and  the  garrison  which  was  transferred  there  from  Petro- 
pavlovsk  by  the  government  in  1855.  American  and  Sandwich 
Island  traders  monopolize  most  of  its  commerce.  Owing  to  the 
difficult  and  dangerous  character  of  the  navigation  of  the  Amoor, 
from  the  constantly  changing  sand-bars  which  obstruct  the  chan- 
nel, most  vessels  carry  their  cargoes  to  De  Castries  Bay  in  Sak 
halin  Straits,  whence  it  has  been  proposed  to  build  a  railroad  to 
Nikolaiffsk.  The  population  of  the  place  is  estimated  at  twelve 
thousand,  and  the  trade  is  principally  in  lumber,  liquors,  fancy 
articles,  and  breadstuffs. 

It  has  been  proposed  to  form  an  ice  company  here,  for  the 
purpose  of  supplying  the  Chinese  ports  ;  but  it  is  doubtful  if  the 
enterprise  would  pay  for  many  years,  as  the  market  is  very 
limited  at  present. 

This  concludes  the  list  of  points  or  people  of  interest  in  the 
foreign  territories  adjacent  to  Alaska. 

•  Most  of  Uic  above  facts  are  from  a  paper  by  Professor  A.  S,  Bickinore,  in  Silli 
man's  Journal,  1868. 


n  height, 
nee  coni- 

and  laci; 
.  of  work, 
;  very  few 
e  fond  of 

are  noted 
eral  good- 

ard  to  this 
Drc.  They 
mcse  con- 
language, 
tion.  The 
nal  inhabi- 
;ords,  wore 
ristian  era. 
hose  of  the 

Lith  of  the 

idc  of  that 

-om  Petro- 

Sandwicli 

,'mg  to  the 

le  Amoor, 

the  chan- 

ay  in  Sak 

raih'oad  to 

at  twchc 

.lors,  fancy 

re,  for  the 
)tful  if  the 
et   is  very 


APPENDIX. 


Flas  of  the  Scientific  Corps. 


MEMBERS. 

Robert  Kennicott, 
\V.  11.  D.\Li.,  II.  W.  Eluott, 

ii.  m.  ban.nister,  j.  t.  rothrock, 

Ferdinand  Hischoff,  Charles  T'ease. 


! 


■.i  i 


rest  in  the 


more,  in  Silli- 


[I  >! 


\llW 


iii! 


FRO.A 
pou 

nctic  tran: 
much  con: 

Many  i 
alphabet 
twenty-fiftl 
soft,  as  in 
when  not 
lect  of  thi; 
The  twent 
representee 
C  H  as  in 

I'iie  spe 
rhonetic  v 
will  cndea\ 
i^  as  gross 
"oiild  be 
kchurtsch,  ; 
.ilmost  invn 

This  Glo 
venient  in  t 

Alaska.  — 
is  a  corr 
the  early 
by  the  n 
T'his  was 
now  kno 


APPENDIX     A. 


GLOSSARY. 

FROM  ignorance  of  the  true  piionetic  value  of  the  Russian  com- 
pound consonants,  and  from  literal  transcription,  instead  of  pho- 
netic translation,  of  the  German  rendering  of  Russian  and  native  names, 
much  confusion  has  arisen. 

Many  writers  persistently  represent  the  third  letter  of  the  Russian 
alphabet  by  W,  writing  Romdiwui  instead  of  Romanoff,  iS:c.  The 
twenty-fifth  letter  is  also  frequently  rendered  T  S  C  H  instead  of  C  H 
soft,  as  in  church,  which  fully  represents  it  in  English.  The  Russian  O, 
when  not  accented,  should  be  rendered  in  English  by  A  ;  from  the  neg- 
lect of  this  we  have  Kbdiak  instead  of  Kadidk,  and  many  similar  errors. 
The  twenty-second  letter  of  the  Russian  alphabet  should  i)roperly  be 
represented  by  K  H  in  English  ;  it  has  the  exact  value  of  the  German 
C  H  as  in  wclchcr. 

The  spelling  throughout  this  volume  has  been  made  as  simple  as  the 
[honetic  values  would  allow.  It  is  to  be  hoped  that  authors  in  future 
will  endeavor  to  follow  up  this  reform,  especially  when  they  learn  that  it 
is  as  gross  an  error  to  sjiell  Kamchatka,  for  instance,  Kaintschatka,  as  it 
would  be  for  a  foreigner  to  represent  the  Flnglish  word  church  by 
tschiirtsch,  and  so  on.  The  letter  U  in  Russian  and  native  words  has 
almost  invariably  th,;  sound  of  U  in  Luke. 

Tliis  Glossary  has  been  added  to  explain,  more  fully  than  was  con- 
venient in  the  text,  the  meaning  and  derivation  of  some  words. 

.\L.tsK.\.  —  This  name,  now  applied  to  the  whole  of  our  new  territory, 
is  a  corruption,  very  far  removed  from  the  original  word,  ^\'hen 
tiu'  early  Russian  traders  first  reached  Unalashka,  they  were  told 
by  the  natives  that  to  the  eastward  was  a  great  land  or  territory. 
This  was  called  by  the  natives  Al-dk-shak  or  Al-dy-ck  sa.  The  island 
now  known  as  Unalashka  was  called  Na-gutt-aiayeksa  or  "  the  land 
34 


4 


W 


\A\ 


530 


APPENDIX. 


flW 


near  Alayeksa."  TVoni  Alayeksa  the  name  became,  by  corruption, 
A/Jksa,  Alashka,  Alidska,  and  finally  Aldska.  Alaska  is  an  English 
corruption  j  the  Russians  never  used  it.  In  all  the  later  maps  the 
name  of  the  peninsula  is  spelled  Alidska,  and  this  spelling  has  been 
preserved  in  this  volume,  as  affording  a  convenient  distinction  be- 
tween the  general  and  the  specific  names.  In  the  same  way,  Na- 
giin-aliiyeksa  became  Agiin-akiksa,  Agi'm-a/dshka,  and  finally  Uualdsh- 
ka.  The  term  Unaldska  has  no  authority,  is  not  known  to  either 
Russians  or  Aleuts,  and  I  have  not  employed  it,  as  it  has  no  grounds 
for  preference.  We  have,  then,  Alaska  for  the  territory,  Aliaska  for 
the  peninsula,  and  Unalashka  for  the  island  ;  all  '  rived  from  the 
same  root,  meaning  a  great  country  or  continent. 

AleUt,  or  Aleutian.  —  This  term  is  now  universally  used  to  designate 
the  inhabitants  of  the  Aleutian  Islands.  Its  origin  is  obscure.  Some 
of  the  early  writers  state  that  it  was  derived  from  one  of  the  East- 
ern Siberian  dialects,  and  meant  originally  servant  or  slave.  It  is 
certain  that  it  is  a  word  foreign  to  the  language  of  the  islanders,  wlio 
called  themselves  originally  Kagatdya  Koutig'iis,  meaning  "  men  of  the 
east,"  their  traditions  indicating  an  eastern  or  continental  origin.  The 
Kaniagisti  or  Kanidgmnt  of  the  island  of  Kadiak,  quite  a  different 
branch  of  the  Orarian  stock,  were  also  called  Aleuts  by  the  early 
traders. 

Aliaska,  a  corruption  of  Aldycksa.     See  Aldska. 

AvAcHA,  or  .^vAicHA.  —  The  name  of  a  river  in  Southeastern  Kam- 
chatka, and  also  of  the  noble  ba^  into  which  it  falls.  Originally 
Su-wdcha,  it  was  soon  corrupted  into  Avacha  by  the  Russians,  and 
is  well  known  by  the  latter  name.  Ignorance  or  stupidity  has  clone 
its  worst  in  the  different  methods  of  spelling  this  clear  and  simple 
name.  On  Niakiiia  Cotc,  one  of  the  numerous  small  harbors  in  the 
bay,  is  situated  the  town  of  Petropavlovsk. 

Babi'che.  —  The  term  applied  by  the  French  Canadians  of  Hudson  Bay 
to  a  fine  rawhide  line,  formed  by  removing  the  hair  from  the  reindeer 
skin,  soaking,  cutting  into  line,  and  finally  stretching  and  drying  the 
latter.  It  is  used  by  the  voyageurs  for  the  netting  of  their  snow- 
shoes,  and  lashing  their  sleds,  or  any  use  to  which  twine  might 
be  applied.  A  similar  line  is  made  from  sealskin  by  the  Innuit. 
and  is  generally  known  among  the  voyageurs  as  rcmni.  It  is  ex 
ceedingly  tough  and  strong,  and  is  used  for  the  same  purposes,  on 
the  coast,  that  are  served  by  hab'iche  in  the  interior.  The  raiml 
according  to  my  experience,  is  the  better  of  the  two. 


GLOSSARY. 


53> 


•ruption, 
English 
laps  tlu' 
h;\s  bLcn 
;tion  be- 
way,  Na- 
C  '/icr/iis/h 
to  either 
)  grounds 
liivska  for 
from  the 


designate 
re.     Some 

the  East- 
Lve.  It  is 
nders,  who 
men  of  the 
igin.     The 

a  different 
y  the  early 


,tern  Kam- 

Originally 

issians,  and 

y  has  done 

and  siiTiple 

bors  in  the 

ludson  Bay 
le  reindeer 
drying  lli>; 
their  snow- 
wine  niiglit 
the  Innuit. 
It  is  ev 
lurposcs,  on 
The  /■'■"""' 


HarrXbora.  — The  Russian  term  for  the  Innuit  winter  houses  or  tbpeks. 
The  word  yonrt  is  frequently  used  to  express  the  same  idea,  but  a 
true  yourt  differs  in  many  respects  from  a  topek.  Ivan's  barrabora 
means  simply  John's  house.  It  is  perhaps  derived  from  a  Russian 
word  which  means  a  pigsty,  or  a  confused,  disordered  heap. 

Bkrinc. — The  name  of  the  commander  of  the  first  Russian  exploring 
expedition  in  the  sea  which  bears  his  name.  A  facsimile  of  his  auto- 
graph, in  a  biography  of  the  Russian  admirals,  proves  incontestably 
that  he  spelled  his  name  in  this  manner.  It  is  generally  written 
Bf/iring,  and  sometimes  Bccri/ig. 

BinARSHiK. — A  Russian  term  used  to  indicate  the  commander  of  a 
small  trading-post,  one  of  several  which  are  under  the  command  of  a 
Director  or  Uprovallsha.  It  is  probably  derived  from  bidar  ox  bidarrd, 
and  originally  meant  the  captain  of  a  large  skin  boat,  or  of  a  hunting 
party  in  such  boats  or  bidarras. 

Casin'k  or  Kas{ne.  —  Derived,  perhaps,  from  casino,  an  assembly  room, 
or  from  casdrmer,  a  barrack.  It  is  used  by  the  Russians  to  denote 
the  dance-houses  of  native  villages,  which  the  Innuit  call  Kai^iis- 
keemi  (or  Kagi  at  Davis's  Strait).  Richardson  says  that  it  is  an  Innuit 
word  ;  but  the  Innuit  of  Norton  Sound  do  not  use  it  or  recognize  it 
as  other  than  a  Russian  word.     Kazbne  is  the  Russian  for  a  cabin. 

Esquimaux.  —  This  word,  which  would  perhaps  be  better  written  Eskimo, 
is  derived  from  a  word  indicating  a  sorcerer,  or  shaman,  in  the  lan- 
guage of  the  northern  tribes.  Forster  says,  that  "  in  the  language  of 
the  Abenaki,  Eskhndntzik  means  "eaters  of  raw  fish."  This  may 
also  be  true,  but  the  northern  Ti'nneh  use  the  word  Uskeemi  with 
the  above  signification,  and  apply  it  to  the  Esquimaux.  From 
this  the  word  Husky  (meaning  Esquimaux)  is  derived,  and  is  univer- 
sally used  by  the  Northern  Hudson  Bay  voyageurs.  It  is  also  found 
in  the  Broken  Slavt5  jargon  with  the  same  meaning.  The  Innuit 
name  Kag-uskeemi,  or  house,  where  the  shamans  conduct  their  dances 
an>."  incantations,  may  be  derived  from  the  same  root.  In  the  diction- 
aries we  find  Esquimau  (singular),  and  P^squimaux  (plural),  defined  as 
a  "  tribe  of  Indians,"  &c.  Sufficient  has  already  been  said  to  indicate 
the  erroneous  character  of  this  definition.  It  would  be  much  better 
to  employ  the  single  term  Eskimo  in  a  collective,  and  also  an  indi- 
vidual sense,  as  the  etymology  of  the  word  is  obscure,  and  the  pro- 
nunciation Eskimos  is  not  in  common  use,  although  to  be  found  in 
the  dictionaries.  Their  own  word  Innuit  is  vastly  preferable,  and 
should  properly  take  the  place  of  the  disputed  term.  The  Davis's 
Strait  Eskimo  call  the  Greenlanders  ''Aski." 


532 


APPENDIX. 


:'!il! 


.ii  I 


i:  m 


I'll 


Nil 
I] '' 


'"'ill 

lil 


IdLdo  or  IolO.  — The  name  is  applied  by  the  Ksquimaux  to  their  tem- 
porary ice  houses,  not,  as  asserted  by  Richardson,  to  their  winter 
houses,  which  are  built  under  ground.  The  latter  are  known  as 
td[)eks.  The  igloo  is  peculiar  to  the  Arctic  coast,  where  it  is  usually 
built  as  a  shelter  while  travelling.  The  Norton  Sound  Innuit  are 
familiar  with  the  word,  and  on  showing  one  of  Hall's  pictures  to  nnu 
of  them,  and  inriuiring  if  he  knew  what  it  was,  he  immediately  re- 
plied that  it  was  an  igloo,  but  that  they  were  only  used  as  above  do 
scribed,  and  never  necessary  on  Norton  Sound,  where  the  villages  are 
close  together.     In  Davis's  Strait  A'/^/t  means  a  tent. 

Innuit.  —  The  name  (meaning  people)  applied  to  themselves  by  all  the 
Orarians,  except  the  Aleuts  and  perhaps  the  Eastern  Siberian  natives 
of  the  same  stock.  It  is  in  use  from  Greenland  to  Bering  Strait,  and 
thence  to  the  vicinity  of  Mount  St.  Elias. 

iRKtiTSK.  —  The  capital  of  Eastern  Siberia,  situated  on  the  Angara 
River,  which  flows  out  of  Lake  Baikal,  about  one  hundred  and  sixtv 
miles  from  the  Chinese  boundary  line  of  17.37.  Sometimes  con- 
founded with  Yakutsk,  whicl.  see. 

Kadiak. — The  name  of  the  largest  island  south  of  Aliaska.  It  is  a 
derivative,  according  to  some  authors,  from  the  Russian  Kddia,  a  large 
tub ;  more  probably,  however,  it  is  a  corruption  of  Kanidg,  the  an- 
cient Innuit  name.  The  inhabitants,  according  to  Coxe,  called  them- 
selves Kanidgist  or  Kanidgmiit.  This  name  is  almost  invariably 
misspelled  by  English  authors,  as  Kodiak,  Codiac,  Codiack,  Kixduuk 
and  in  other  similarly  absurd  ways.  The  above  is  the  only  correct 
spelling. 

Kamchatka.  —  The  native  name  of  the  great  peninsula  which  separatee 
the  Ochdtsk  from  the  Bering  Sea.  The  above  is  the  true  phonetic 
spelling ;  the  common  method  is  a  gross,  unnecessary,  and  decidedly 
objectionable  error. 

KamlAvka.  —  A  water-proof  shirt,  made  of  the  intestines  of  the  seal  or 
sea-lion,  and  used  while  travelling  in  their  kyaks,  or  in  rainy  weather, 
by  the  Aleuts  and  Esquimau.x. 

Kegikt6wrOk.  — The  native  name  of  a  village  on  Norton  Sound.  This 
has  been  variously  misspelled,  Egictbwit,  Iglutowtk,  &c.  It  is  de- 
rived from  kikhtuk  (an  island),  from  two  small  islets  which  lie  off  of 
the  cove. 

KfKHTCK.  —  An  island  ;  in  the  Innuit  tongue.  Variously  modified,  it 
stands  for  different  islands,  as  Khtiikluk,  an  island  on  the  southern 


GLOSSARY. 


533 


coast;  Ki'^^ikht&tsahiik,  Whale  Island,  near  St.  Michad's  ;  A'ri;ii/if/t/i 
/iii/b,  the  islets  off  (lolscWa  River;  and  Kc^ik/ituk,  IL-sborouyh  Island. 

Ki>l.dsHES.  — A  word  applied  by  the  Russians  to  natives  of  the  Thlinket 
slock.  The  peculiar  ornament  worn  by  the  married  women  is  else- 
wliere  referred  to.  This  somewhat  resembles  a  trough.  The  Aleu- 
tian word  for  trough  is  A'ti/tlt^a,  which,  changed  to  a  diminutive  in  the 
Russian,  became  Kalushka  (little  trough).  I'rom  this  the  name 
Kalosh  was  derived  by  corrujjtion,  and,  after  long  usage,  was  adopted 
as  a  name  for  the  Thlinkets  by  the  Russians. 

K.wiKHi'AK.  —  .'V  term  deriveil  from  K-awk  (a  river),  and  />(ik  (a  suffix, 
meaning  large),  and  used  by  the  Innuit  of  the  Yukon  delta  to  desig- 
nate one  of  the  sloughs  which  form  the  delta.  From  the  circumstance 
that  the  Russians  usually  entered  the  Yukon  by  that  slough,  they 
naturally,  in  ignorance  of  any  other  name,  applied  it  to  the  whole 
river,  which  is  laid  down  under  that  name  in  most  Russian  charts. 

LCVT/(K. — The  Russian  name  applied  to  the  skin  of  the  sea-lion,  or 
large  seal,  when  prepared  for  use.  It  is  derived  from  the  Kamshatlale 
hiklitakh  meaning  the  large  seal  (like///t'tv/  jubata)  which  inhabits 
Bering  Sea.  The  Innuit  name  of  the  same  seal  is  fniiklok,  a  word 
which  is  also  used  by  the  Russians  to  designate  sealskin. 

Mahout  or  MahwO  i'.  —  A  word  of  obscure  origin,  used  by  the  Russians 
to  designate  large-sized  line,  made  from  walrus  or  muklok  skin,  by 
the  Innuit,  and  used  instead  of  rope  on  Norton  Sound.  It  is  of 
very  great  strength,  but  becomes  soft  and  flabby  if  kept  wet  for  any 
length  of  time.  These  lines  are  cut  around  the  skin,  and  are  some- 
times two  hundred  feet  long  in  one  piece. 

M6-RE.  —  The  Russian  word  for  "sea." 

OsERA.  —  The  word  meaning  "  a  lake"  in  Russian. 

OsiRoF.  —  An  island.  Plural  Ostrova,  diminutive  Ostrovok,  plural 
Ostrofki,  all  Russian  words. 

UsiROG.  —  The  name,  of  Yakut  derivation,  used  in  Russian  to  denote  a 
stockaded  post  or  village.  All  the  early  Russian  settlements  in 
Eastern  Siberia  were  thus  defended,  and  called  ostrogi.  Thus  we 
have  Anadyrsk  bstrog,  meaning  the  stockaded  village  or  settlement  at 
Anadyr. 

Papoosh.  —  The  Russian  name  of  a  bunch  of  tobacco-leaves,  weighing 
half  a  pound,  or  less,  and  tied  with  the  stem  of  one  of  them,  while 
green. 


'       1 

1; 
I 

I 


"hi 


\n 


I  • 


IF 


n 


m 


534 


APPENDIX. 


I'ARKA.  —  Plural  pArki,  usually  rendered,  in  P'nj^lisli,  f<drkies,  A  Ru.ssian 
word,  meaninjj  an  upper  garment  of  skin  or  fur,  with  a  hood,  and  not 
open  in  front.  They  are  used,  with  various  niodifkations,  by  almost 
all  northern  nations.  The  Russian  worrl  for  "  shirt"  is  quite  dif 
ferent. 

PoM(5ziiNiK.  —  From  pomoj^ik,  the  Russian  verb,  meaning  "to  assi.st." 
The  term  is  usually  restricted  in  Russian  America  to  the  secretary  or 
assistant  of  the  bidarshik,  or  commander  of  a  trailing-post. 

Pool).  A  Russian  standard  weight,  being  thirty-si.x  pounds  avoirdupois, 
and  containing  forty  Russian  pounds.  The  standards  of  measure  arc 
the  arsinn  of  twenty-eight  inches,  and  the  sarzhin  or  fathom,  which  is 
seven  English  feet. 

PodkciA.  —  A  Russian  word  meaning  a  snow-storm  attended  with  high 
wind.  It  is  dreaded  by  all  travellers,  and  sometimes  proves  fatal  to 
those  who  are  so  unfortunate  as  to  be  travelling  without  means  of 
shelter.  It  is  a  simoom,  with  cold  and  snow  substituted  for  heat  and 
sand. 

PovA'RNiA.  —  Literally  a  kitchen,  but  also  applied  to  houses  built  for 
travellers'  shelter  on  the  bleak  plains  of  .Siberia.  These  houses  are 
also  called  zeminoi  (from  zcmoi^  winter)  meaning  a  winter  house  or 
shelter. 

PrAsnik.  —  A  holiday,  or  saint's  day.  Tl  ere  are  eighty-six  of  these,  br 
sid  -  Sundays,  in  the  Russian  calendar.  No  good  Greek  Catholic  will 
work  .  — '«nik,  except  in  case  of  great  necessity.     They  arc  a 

fruitful  cause  oi  . .     -ess,  indolence,  and  vice. 

Pratoka.  —  The  Russian  name  for  sloughs,  or  arms,  which  leave  a 
river  or  other  body  of  water,  and  afterward  re-enter  it.  They  arc 
extremely  common  on  the  Yukon. 

RkkkA.  —  The  Ru.isiin  for  '"a  river,"  the  dimunitive  being  rkchka,  and 
the  plural  recki'e  or  rccchkce. 

Remkn.  —  Fine  sealskin  line.     Collectively  remni.     See  Bab'iche.  ^ 

ShamAn.  —  Derived  from  the  Yakut  shaman  meaning  "holy,"  but  now 
understood  as  meaning  a  sorcerer,  or  "medicine-man,"  among  tlie 
aborigines.  This  word  and  its  derivatives  have  been  adopted  into 
the  English  language  by  lexicographers,  but  Webster  puts  the  acceii; 
wrongly  on  the  first  syllable.  It  is  also  in  use  in  German,  French, 
and  Russian.     Some  authors  have  mistaken  it  for  an  Indian  word. 


GLOSSARY. 


535 


S(^i'KA. — A  Russian  word  iiKMniii};  strictly  a  volcano  or  volcanic  jK-ak, 
lull  also  applied  to  any  solitary  peak,  in  coinmun  usage,  riso/ta 
S,'>pka  means  "  ("hcerful  I'e.ik." 

SviK.  —  A  Russian  word,  nieanin;;  "north."  The  Russians  have  two 
sets  of  words  to  denote  the  points  of  the  compass,  one  of  them  in 
use  in  the  vernacular  is  given  below  ;  the  other  has  been  adopted 
bodily  from  th  :  (Iciinan,  and  is  especially  in  use  among  navigators. 
The  Slavonic  terms  are  as  follows  :  - 


.S'rr/*,  North. 

Uz/i,  South. 

Svhiioi  vosl'tchuoi^  Northeast. 

Uzhni  vinti>chnoi,  Southeast. 

Svfnioi^  Northern. 

VosH'chnoi,  Eastern. 


Voslok,  I'last. 

/.af'iul.  West. 

Sirnioi  ZitpAJnoi,  Northwest. 

Ihltni  Z(i/>(ti/iitii,  Southwest. 

I  'z/iiioi,  Southern. 

Zttpdifiioi,  Western. 


TvdwN  or  TvoNE. — This  word  is  as  widely  distributed  as  Caesar  and 
its  derivatives,  and  has  much  the  same  meaning.  It  denotes  a  chief 
or  head  man.  The  Vakiit  word  is  toygon ;  the  Japanese  tycoon  or 
zi;:;oon  ;  the  Tartar  K/i<ui  is  not  improbably  the  same  root.  Wherever 
the  Russians  have  gone,  they  have  carried  this  word  with  them,  and  it 
is  in  common  use  among  the  Aleutians  and  those  \'ukon  tribes  who 
trade  with  the  Russians.  The  Chinook  ty/iir  may  be  an  accidental 
reseml)lance.  The  Innuit  do  not  use  it,  as  they  prefer  their  own 
words  with  the  same  meaning,  viz.  :  Otmiylik  and  Ori'^iiik. 

'IVndra.  —  A  rolling,  grassy  plain  without  trees,  such  as  are  found  in 
Northeasterr  "•beria.  There  is  no  corresponding  Knglish  word.  The 
plural  is  tuiuii..  The  Russians  call  the  white-fronted  geese  {A.  Gam- 
bclin)  tiUiiirini.  The  same  word  is  sometimes  applied  to  wander- 
ing tribes,  such  as  the  V//Mi;/rs  and  Koridks. 

Unai.akm'k.  —  \  village,  on  the  river  of  the  same  n.ame  which  falls 
into  Norton  Sound.  It  has  been  incorrectly  written  Unalakleet  and 
Unalachledt. 

Unai.Ashka.  —  The  largest  of  the  Fox  Islands.     See  Alaska. 

Ui'ROVALfsFiA.  —  Literally  a  director.  Applied  in  Russian  America  to 
a  chief  trader,  or  commander  of  a  Redoubt,  who  generally  has  also 
the  supervision  of  several  less  important  posts  or  forts  {adcnochki), 
which  are  in  charge  of  bidarshiks. 

VakCtsk.  —  The  capital  of  the  Yakut  Province  in  Eastern  Siberia.  It 
is  situated  in  latitude  63°  north,  upon  the  river  Lena,  about  twenty- 


I   »  i 


u 


I  1 


r 


l!;!l 


!    11 


536 


APPENDIX. 


seven  degrees  cast  of  Irkiitsk.  Wlieat  matures  here,  though  the  sum- 
mer is  very  short,  and  the  earth  at  the  depth  of  a  foot  is  always 
frozen. 

YiJKON. — The  English  corruption  of  the  Indian  word  Ynkonna.  This 
word,  which  is  conunon  to  all  the  Tfnneli  who  reside  on  its  banks,  is 
not  exactly  represented  in  luiglish  by  the  phrase  "  great  river." 
Kakliat  means  "  river  "  in  the  same  dialect,  and  Kl'lakakhat  means 
"small  river."  The  sense  in  wliich  Ytikoiiita  is  used  is  more  like  that 
in  which  wc  use  the  word  "  sea  "  when  referring  to  the  whole  body  of 
oceanic  water.  We  have  no  words  in  the  iMiglish  which  exactly 
express  the  whole  idea.  We  may  approach  it  by  saying  that  it  means 
"///^,' river, /</;■  <uv<:'//rw<v."  It  has  been  freciuently  spelled  Youkoii,  and 
also  Ytuvii  and  Youcan ;  but  Yukon  npresents  the  jjlionetic  value 
according  to  the  rules  which  are  followed  in  this  volume. 

ZaP(5r.  ■ —  A  word  used  by  the  Russians  to  denote  the  fish-traps,  or 
weirs,  built  by  the  natives  on  the  Yukon,  as  elsewhere  described. 
The  Yakuts,  I  am  informed,  catch  fish  in  a  similar  manner,  but  llio 
Kutchin  tribes  do  not  understand  the  art. 


'<;  I 


;li  the  sum- 
L  is  alwa\s 

una.  Tliis 
Is  banks,  is 
rcat  river." 
•/lat  means 
re  like  that 
)le  body  of 
ich  exactly 
at  it  means 
'onkon,  and 
netic  vahic 

ih-traps,  or 

cieseribed, 

er,  but  the 


APPENDIX   R. 

POPULATION    OF    ALASKA. 

Corrected  from  Russian  csli.nates.  a,..l,  if  anythi„«.  above  rather  ti,an  l,elow  the 

actual   nuinbor. 


Silka 

Ki'iniinder  of  Alexander  Archipeiauo   . 

Siikinc  Kiver      .         .  " 

Cliiikaht  Uiver 

\akiitat  Hay       .         .'.'.'.'. 

('i>|i|)cr  Kivcr 

Chiij^.icli  Culf     .         .         ..." 

Iveniii  and  Aliiiska  IVninsiiJa  .    "    .    ' 

Kailiiik  (oimi). 

St.  Paul  I  la.  I  xir  .         . '. 

Otiier  Seltlciiiciils  . 

A(ojj;ii:ik 

Woody  (!,('snoi)  Island  .        .    ' 

Spnu-o  (Vd.Avv)  Island      .         .    '         " 

([liirikoir  Isl.ind  (Ukaniok)    . 

I'nga  Island 

('atlicrina  Arihipelairo. 

fl/nakishka      .        .         ... 
l/nniak        •         •         .         .         . 
.Ainlia      ... 

Alka 

Aitu        .         .         .         ..." 

Other  Islands     . 

I'ribyloflr  (iroui). 

[  St.  Paul'.s        ....... 

!  St.  Oeoige's 
Niishcrgi'ik  River    . 
Knsko(|i'iini  Delta       .         .         .         .  * 

I'pper  Kiiskoipiini 

Co.ist  from  Cape  RonianzolTto  Stuart  Island 

toast  ol  Norton  Sound      . 

K:ivi,dv  Peninsula  . 

Sli'dj-e  Island 

St.  Laurence  Island 

The  IJioinedes    . 

Arctic  Coast  . 

Vtikon  Indians. 

Inndiks 

Koyi'ikniis       ■•...' 

I  ii.ikhaiana 

Ten. in  Kulclil-i 

Kuiiha  Kuteliin 

"I her  Trihes  . 

Resident  on  the  Yukon 

Total 


Kussiaiiii. 
349 


10 


50 


10 


25 


I 

10 


i.S 
483 


Russians  and  Siheri.ms         .... 

Creoles  or  half  breeds       .         .  .  '         ' 

Native  tribes 

Auieiieans  (not  troops)    ....'' 

l'"oreinners  (not  Ku.ssians)    . 

Total  population 
I'lie  actually  civilized  population  is  about  thirteen  humlied. 


Creoles. 


419 


'50 
cs.? 

200 
<'5 

lO 

25 

'25 


f'5 
55 


•  5 
5 

CS 
3 

6 
10 


20 
1421" 


iNalive.n. 

1000 
1500 
I  300 
liSoo 

250 
1500 

()00 
1500 

450 

Soo 

3  SO 
214 
100 

\(^ 

445 
roc 

'.50 
220 

C55 
«5o 

250 

<">5 
500 
250 

r  soo 

3000 

1000 

1500 
ioo 
300 
"150 

1000 

2000 

500 

300 

400 

250 
1 000 


Jf.,S.,,j 


J 


4.S3 

r.4ai 

2(.„S.,., 
150 
200 

2<>.o<)7 


;l 


wm 


mi 


•ill 


APPENDIX    C. 

STATISTICS  OF  THE  FUR  TRADE  OF  ALASKA. 


'797  to 

1821. 

Kind  of  peltry. 

1786 

to 
«797- 

1821 

to 

1842. 

25,416 

1842 

to 

1862. 

Total 

Exported.  ' 

sold  in  the 
Colonies. 

production 
in  76  years. 

Sea  Otter  skins 

114,195 

86,644 

10,392 

25.899 
25.797 

262,546 

Sea  otter  tails    . 

72,559 

71.130 

8,411 

23.506 

201,403 

Beaver  skins . 

428 

56,001 

15.025 

162,034 

157,484 

390,972 

Otter  .... 

5.039 

17.768 

2.145 

29,442 

70,473 

124,867 

Fur  .seal 

557.024 

1.767,340 

377,642 

758,502 

372,894'3.;)?;.V02 

Black  and  silver  fo.\  . 

15,046 

I5.II2 

10 

17,913    )                 i             "''.' 

Cross  fox 

20,369 

24.535 

482 

26,462 

)                1 .;  ■ , '.  So 

Red  fox     . 

20,665 

35.456 

1,273 

45-947 

White  fox 

1. 517 

5.130 

30 

13,628 

}  54,134 

■>  -.307 

Blue  fox     . 

68,361 

45,904 

55,714 

222,113 

Marten   .... 

200 

17,921 

342 

15,666 

12,782 

46,911 

Wolverine . 

1,234 

1,564 

100        2,898 

Wolf      .... 

1 

201 

24'          225 

Mink. 

5.349 

61 

15.481 

1,872      32.763 

Black  bear     . 

2,650 

5.355 

1,993        999S 

Musk  rat   . 

1 

250,000 

1,300,000  1,550,000 

Hair  seal 

? 

27 

> 

?        1            27 

Wild  cat  or  lynx 

1,819 

? 

6,927        8,746 

Pounds  of  ivory     . 

27,792 

51,622 

2,016 

234,040 

27.550    343.0-0 

Pounds  of  whalebone 

35.172 

72.396 

4,608 

124,390 

.''            236,466 

Pounds  of  castoreum     . 

281 

1 

1.287 

879,       2,447 

Note. — These  estimates  are  unquestionably  below  the  truth.  The  Company  sv>- 
tematically  underrated  their  profits  and  the  amount  of  the  annual  production,  from 
motives  of  policy.  This  will  be  evident  to  any  one  who  will  comiiare  the  prodiiclicm 
of  furs  as  stated  in  the  Reports  published  in  St.  Petersburg  with  fhe  amount  a.-,  given 
in  the  Reports  published  at  Sitka. 

The  number  of  musk-rat  skins  is  not  to  be  found  in  the  Reports,  but  is  given  on  tiie 
authority  of  oflicers  of  the  Russian  American  Company. 

The  above  does  not  include  the  number  of  skins  obtained  by  the  English,  Ameri- 
can, and  Sandwich  Island  trader,  which,  in  the  continental  furs,  has  averaged  one 
third  annually  since  1850,  in  addition  to  the  figures  given  in  the  tabic. 


I 


Minii 


;ka. 


Total  1 
production  I 
111  76  years. 


262,546 
201,403 

390,972 
124,867 


M  3->3  -  P'- 


V.307 
222,113 

46,911 

2,898 


32.763 
9.998 
00  1,550,000 
27 


93 


27 
50, 

79, 


8,746 
343.020 
236,466 

2,447 


ompany  sys- 

luction,  from 

production 

r.l  a.-,  given 


given  on 


the 


lisli,  Anicri- 
iveraged  one 


I 


539 


APPENDIX     D. 


metp:orology. 


Meteorological  Observations  at  St.  AfichaePs  Rcdoidit,  Norton  Sound,  1842-43,  hy 
Lieutenant  Za^'dskin,  I.  A'.  N. 


July  25th  to  31st,  1842.     No  clear  days.     One  cloudy  day.     Five  rainy  days.     No 
aurora.    General  average  of  temperature  +57°.o6  Fahrenheit. 


Average  . 
MaxinnnTi 
Minimum 


8  A.  M. 

-f-s6°.S9 
+62  .50 
+50  .00 


Noon. 

-|-6o°.03 
+67  .43 
+57  -31 


4  P.  M, 

-f  S9°40 
-f-64  .62 

+55  .69 


Midniglit. 

+S2°-25 
+55  -62 

+47  -75 


August  1st  to  13th  and  24th  to  31st,  inclusive,  1842.     (Clear  on  the  14th.)     Eleven 
cloudy  days.     Ten  rainy  days.     No  aurora.     General  average  +52°. 76  Fah. 


Averagj  . 
Maximum 
Minimum 


8  A.  M. 

+52°-57 
+63  37 
+43  •«! 


Noon. 

+57°-78 
+67  43 
+47  -08 


4  P.  M. 

+53°.93 
+65  .18 

+44  .93 


September  ist  to  30th,  1842. 
rainy  days.     No  aurora. 


Five  clear  days.     Twenty-one  cloudy  days 
General  average  +47°  41  Fahrenheit. 


Midnight. 

-»-46°8o 
+54  -5° 
+44  -95 

Four 


Average  . 
M.iximum 
Minimum 


8  A.  M. 

-)-46°.oi 

+56  -75 
+38  .18 


Noon. 

+53°-87 
+65  .18 

+49  -43 


4  P.  M. 

+48°.93 
4-57  80 
+42  .12 


Midnight. 

+40°.87 
-4-48  .87 
-1-30  .88 


October  1st  to  31st,  1842.     Four  clear  days.     Fifteen  cloudy  days.     Twelve  rainy 
days.     No  aurora.    General  aver.igc  +33°.23  Fahrenheit. 


Average  . 
Maximum 
.Minimum 


8  A.  M. 

+3i°-35 
+43  .25 
-+-18  .50 


Noon. 

+37°- 1 5 
+52  .25 
+^^5  -Si 


4  P.  M. 

+33°-S5 
+43  -81 
-1-23  .00 


Midnight. 

+31°.  16 
+41  .00 
+  16  .25 


November  1st  to  30th,  1842.     Three  clear  days.     Twenty-two  cloudy  days, 
rainy  or  snowy  days.     No  aurora.     General  average  +22°. 35  Fahrenheit. 


Six 


Aver.-ige  . 
Maximum 
"1'  limum 


8  A.  M. 

Noon. 

4  P.  M. 

-|-2I°.0O 

+38  -75 

-2    .87 

+25°.39 
+44  -37 
+  7  -25 

+2i°.34 
+42  .12 
—  I  .19 

■CLmber  1st  to  31st,   1842.     Eight  clear  days, 
niny  or  snowy  days.     No  aurora.     General  average  -|-o°.77  Fahrc 


Fourteen  cloudy  days, 
nneit. 


Midnight. 
-t-210.74 
-1-41  .00 
—  I  -75 


Nine 


.A  .ctage  . 
.N  .tximum 
'  linimnm 


8  A.  M. 
—  o°.62 

+30  -87 
—23  .68 


Noon. 

+  3°05 
+30  '^7 
—21  .43 


4  P.  M. 

-t-  i°.o7 

+30  .32 
— 22  .26 


Midnight. 
-+-  I°.6l 
+29  -75 
-24    25 


January  ist  to  12th,  1843.     Four  clear  days.     Seven  cloudy  days.     One  rainy  day. 
No  aurora.     General  avemge  — 5°.  14  F.threnheit. 


.\vcrage  . 
Miiximum 
Minimum 


8  A.  M. 

—  7°-i4 
+26  .48 

-35  -50 


Noon. 
—   I°.23 


-28 
-28 


.63 

75 


4  P.  M. 

—  6°.  00 

+24  -M 

—32  .68 


Midnight. 

—  6°.  20 
-4-21  .52 
—35  .50 


January  12,  1843,  observations  at  St.  Michael's  discontinued. 


ii 

■i  .  . 


rlj 


'm 


\  1, 


1 1. 

f 


540 


APPENDIX. 


Observations  taken  at  Nuldto,  1843,  hy  Lieutenant  Za^dslw'n,  I.  R,  N.     Lat  64°  42'  11"  A'. 

anilLon.  157°  56'  18''  W.  G. 

Jan.  28th  to  31st,  1843.     Two  clear  clays.     Two  cloudy  clays.     No  rain,  snow,  or  I 
aurora.    Average — 250. 10  Fahrenheit. 


Average   .... 
Ma.\imum    . 
Minimum 

8  A.  M. 

— 30O.01 
— 22    .00 

—33    12 

Noon. 
-22O.37 

-15  -25 
—33  -25 

4  P.  M. 

— 23°.49 
—16  .93 

-32  .12 

Midnight. 

— 24O.79 
—  19  .18 
—31    .00 

Feb.  1st  to  28tli,  1843.  Fifteen  clear  days.  Six  cloudy  days.  Seven  snowy  days. 
Aurora  in  the  N.W.  and  EN.E.  (Mag.)  from  the  6th  to  12th  inclusive,  every 
night.    General  average  —2°. 59  Fahrenheit. 


Average   . 
M.  \i  :Aum 


8  A.  M. 

—  8°.M 

+33  ••2 
—40  .00 

Noon. 

+  7°07 
+36  .50 
-16  .37 

4  P.  M. 

—  oo.io 
+29  .75 

—  19  -75 

Midnight. 

—  8°.8i 
+24  .61 
—35  -50 

March  >  31st,    1843.     Three  clear  days.     Seventeen  cloudy  days.     Eleven  | 

snou^    :ays.     Aurora  on  the  7th  from  8  P.  M.  to  i  o'clock.    General  average  i 
+220.96  Fahrenheit.  I 


Average  . 
Maximum 
Minimum 


8  A.  M. 

+  190.18 
+  38  .18 
—18  .06 


Noon.  '  4  P.  M. 

+29O.48  I  +250.50 

+41    .00  +41    .00 

+  5  .00  !  +  7  .25 


Midnight. 

+  I7°.67 
+37  .06 
—17  .50 


April  1st  to  30th,  1843.    Three  clear  days.    Cloudy  sixteen  days.     Eleven  snowy 
days.     Aurora  on  the  6th.     General  average  +220.10  Fahrenheit. 


Average  . 
Maximum 
Minimum 


8  A.  M. 

+270.89 
+42   .12 

+  8  .38 

Noon. 

+33°46 
+46  .62 

+  19    53 

4  P.  M. 
+310.2S 
+42    .12 
+  17    .48 

Midnight. 

+  i8°.o8 

+42   .12 

—  7  -37 

May  1st  to  31st,  1843.     F'^'^  ^^^■^^  days.     Seventeen  cloudy  days.     Nine  rainy  or 
snowy  days.     No  auroras.     General  average +44°. 21  Fahrenheit. 


Average  . 
Maximum 
Minimum 


8  A.  M. 

+450.02 

+65   .75 
+21  .88 


Noon. 

+49°.oi 

+60   .12 
+26   .94 


4  P.  M. 
+470.99 
+  60 
+  29 


i: 


Midnight. 

+34O.67 
+  52  .25 
+  17  .4« 


June  1st  to  20th,  1843.     One  clear  day.     Sixteen  cloudy  days. 
No  aurora.     General  average  +650,41  Fahrenheit. 


Three  rainy  days. 


Average  . 
Maximum 
Minimum 


8  A.  M. 

+620.75 
+70  .25 
+48    87 


Noon. 

+  77O.21 
+86   .00 

+57  -87 


4  p.  M. 

+760.37 
+84  .31 

+59  .00 


Midnight.  ' 

+51O.30  i 

+57  •«?  ; 
+39   87 


June  20th,  observations  at  Nuldto  discontinued. 


ainy 

I 
days. 

Midnight.      ! 

+5< 
+  57 
-1-39 

'•30     1 

:g 

i 

METEOROLOGY. 


541 


Ohsert'atkins  at  the  FM^^ut  Mission,  f-nt.  61°  55'  JV.  and  Lon.  161°  iS'  56"  W.  G., 
I'V  LiciiteiMitt  Zagoskin,  1.  A',  A\     1843. 

Sept.  13th  to  3otli,  1843.     No  clear  days.     Eleven  cloudy  days.     Seven  rainy  dayH. 
Pale  aurora  on  the  22d.     General  average  +45°S6  Fahrenheit. 


Average  . 
Maximum 
Minimum 


8  A.  M. 

+44°- 1 1 
+51  .68 

+34  •«! 


Noon. 
+50°.  15 

+57  •«7 
-(-42  .68 


4  P.  M. 

+49°.o3 
+62  .37 
+43  -25 


Midnight. 

+37°-94 
-4-46  .02 

+27    50 


October  1st  to  31st,  1843.     One  clear  day.     Fifteen  cloudy  days.     Fifteen  rainy  or 
snowy  days.     Aurora  on  the  24th.     General  average  +37°.73  Fahrenheit. 


Average  . 
Maximum 
Minimum 


8  A.  M. 

+350.26 
+41  .16 
+20  .75 


Noon. 

+40°.9S 
+52  -25 
+34  -25 


4  P.  M.  ]      Midnight. 

+39°.98  +34°-83 

+  50   .56  I       +42    .12 

-f-33  .12  +24  .13 


Nov.  1st  to  30th,  1843.    Two  clear  days.     Twenty-four  cloudy  days.     Four  rainy 
or  snowy  days.     No  aurora.     General  average  -t-i9°.74  Fahrenheit. 


Average  . 
Maximum 
Minimum 


8  A.  M. 

+  i8°.54 

+38  .75 
—  17  .50 


Noon. 
+22°.I3 
+44  -37 
—to  .75 


4  P.  M. 

+.i2°.38 
+42  .12 
—  10  .75 


Midnight. 
— 16°.92 
+38  .75 
->5   -25 


Dec.  1st  to  4th,  1843.     One  clear  day.     One  cloudy  day.     Two  snowy  days.     No 
aurora.     General  average  — 13°  94  Fahrenheit. 


Average  . 
Maximum 
Minimum 


8  A.  M. 

— 190.32 

+  7  -25 
— 40  .00 


Noon.  4  P.  M. 

— 12°.30  — 12°.86 

+  10  .07  ,     +  9  .50 

—29  -31  —32  -12 


I  -, 


Midnight. 
—  II°.3I 

9  -50 


40  .00 


December  4th,  observations  at  the  Mission  discontinued. 


Observations  at  Kolmakoff  Redoubt,  I.at.  61°  34*02"  N.  and  Lon.  158°  37'  11''  W.  C, 
by  Lieutenant  Zagdskin,  I.  A'.  JV.     1843-44. 

I  December  isth  to  31st,  1843.     Eleven  clear  days.     Four  cloudy  days.    Two  snowy 
days.     No  aurora.     General  average  — 27*^.22  Fahrenheit. 


Average  . 
Maximum 
Minimum 


8  A.  M. 

— 29°.24 
—  I  .06 
—44  -50 


Noon. 
—26°.  23 
—  o  .50 
—41  .68 


4  P.  M.  I      Midnight. 

—250.89  '      —27°. 69 

—  4  .00  —  4  .00 

— 41  .68  — 42  .25 


Jan.  1st  to  31st,  1844.     Eight  clear  days.     Thirteen  cloudy  days.     Ten  snowy  days. 
Pale  aurora  on  the  20th.     General  aver.ige  — 00.38  Fahrenheit. 


Feb.  1st  to  5th,  1844.     One  cloudy  day. 
aver.ige  +230.95  Fahrenheit. 


Four  snowy  days.     No  aurora.     General 


Average  . 
Maximum 
Minimum 


8  A.  M. 
+23°.8o 
+.34  -25 
+  7  -25 


Noon. 

+26°.27 
+  25  .25 
+16  .25 


4  P.  M. 

+250.37 
+25  .25 

+16  .25 


Midnight. 
+22O.89 
+25  -25 
+   2  .75 


February  5th,  observations  at  Kolmakoff  Redoubt  discontinued. 


I 


CM 


I  »3 


i  Mill 


in 


\: 

T-i 

.     ■  : 

J   ^i 

542 


APPENDIX. 


YUKON  TERRITORY. 
(Scientific  Corps  W.  U.  T.  Ex.) 


li.    ■£ 


Temperature  at 


January  . 
February 
March    . 
April    . 
May. 
June     . 
July    .     . 
August 
September 
October 
NoTeiiibnr 
December 


Mean. 
—18° 

-•3° 
+  150 
+270 
+46° 


1866-67. 
NuKAlo. 

Max. 


Min. 


150 

38° 
49° 

74°    .- 
+65°?,+  90°  .'+40  ? 

+6o°?|-|-i20°?  -1-40  ? 


-49° 
-47° 
—40° 
o 


I  1866-67. 

I  Unalaklik. 

Mean.     Max. 
—  10°    +16° 


Min. 
-45° 


1S65-66. 
St.  Michael's. 


Mean. 
-  1° 

4_.».iO 


-21' 


1° 

-4-27O 
+  40° 


+  51° 

+53° 

:+55° 

, 1+40°? 

19°    +36°    —  1°  '+33° 

6°    +29°    —28°  !  +  6° 

—11°  '+  16°  1—56°    ■+■  3°   -4-32°  1-34°    4-  5° 


.1. 


Max.  Min. 

-1-32°  — 36°  1 

39°  -  1° 

44°  -  3° 

41°  4-  6° 

55°  +27° 

61°  +42° 

630  +46° 

69°  +46°  ' 
60° .'  +300 } 

47°  +20° 

26°  —19° 

35°  -3'° 


UNALASHKA. 

Observations  for  temperature  at  Iliiihik, 

(VeniamInofk.) 


IM 


Average  for 

1830. 

1831.               ' 

S 

S 

fi, 

s 

% 

S 

1 

< 

a; 

0^ 

s 

< 

cu 

0^ 

^ 

c 

c 

r^_ 

(^ 

_s_ 

S 

r^ 

— =- 

0 

S 

S 

^  1 

Old  Style. 

!      ; 

0 

0 

0 

0 

0 

0 

o„ 

0 

0,, 

0 

January   . 

20 

2S 

22 

39 

4 

35 

28 

30 

28 

41 

10    31  i 

February 

25 

33 

26 

44 

0 

44 

26 

29 

2b 

48 

«i      37 

March 

>7 

24 

18 

45 

I 

44 

26 

30 

24 

41 

7     34 

April   . 

3« 

41 

35 

5° 

29 

21 

32 

3« 

30 

46 

16     30 

May 

39 

43 

37 

55 

32 

23 

37 

41 

3t> 

52 

27     25 

une     . 

4b 

4b 

42 

57 

39 

18 

45 

48 

42 

58 

34     24 

;uly 

50 

53 

47 

71 

42 

29 

47 

48 

44 

64 

39     25 

August 

54 

5« 

51 

77 

44 

33 

47 

51 

44 

62 

39     23 

September 

42 

45 

42 

50 

28 

22 

40 

43 

38 

52 

32     20 

October 

35 

3« 

36 

46 

28 

21 

35 

39 

35 

45 

23     22 

November 

28     31 

30 

44 

15 

29 

32 

35 

32 

40 

21      19 

December    . 

24     26 

23 

4« 

9 

32 

30 

33 

29 

39 

14     25 

Average  . 

35,38 

34 

77 

0 

77 

36 

40 

34 

6a 

7 

57, 

-66. 
chad's. 


IX. 

Min.   1 

2° 

—36°  1 

qO 

—  1°  1 

4° 

-  .3°  i 

1° 

+  6° 

S° 

!h-27° 

1° 

1-4-42° 

3° 

i+46° 

K)" 

-4-46° 

>00 

'+30°.> 

^7° 

-4-20° 

.6° 

— 19° 

(5° 

-31° 

METEOROLOGY. 


Obst'rvatioiis  at  Ilitiluk,  continued. 


543 


1832. 

«833. 

Average  for 

3 

S 

.   1 

'i'. 

'    5; 

s 

S 

t 

0.' 

1 

Min. 
.Ran 

< 

1^ 

0.' 

i 

^iJJ_ 

Old  .Stvle. 

0 

0 

0      '     0 

0              0 

0 

0 

0 

0 

"a           " 

J.nnii;irv    . 

2.S 

32      24     4t 

7     34 

29 

33 

29 

39 

18       21 

Fobriuuv 

34 

37     }>},     48 

25      23 

M 

36 

32 

42 

18  j  24 

March      . 

34 

3« 

32    64 

18     46 

30 

37 

35 

59 

20     39 

.April   . 

36 

39 

37     48 

26     22 

37 

40 

35 

48 

18  1  20 

May 

4S 

46 

38     62 

32     30 

43 

45 

40 

62 

37  ,  25 

June     . 

47 

50 

46     66 

4'      25 

46 

48 

42 

67 

43  1  24 

July. 

52 

55 

49      70 

43      27 

53 

58 

5' 

70 

^.     ^l  1 

.Aiimist 

54 

5« 

53      77 

42     35 

50 

^i 

47 

74 

38  '  36 

ScptcinhtT 

40 

46 

40     59 

26     U 

44 

48 

44 

55 

32  1  23 

October 

34 

3« 

35     48 

24     24 

35 

40 

34 

49      ?n      29 

\i)veml)cr 

33 

35 

34     48 

26     22 

26 

3' 

2b 

37        0     3« 

Ueceniber 

29 

3' 

30     46 

18     28 

26     28 

1 

26 

39  ,     5  1  34 

Average 

Average  for  5  years 

39 

42 

38,  77 

7  1  70 

38  j  41 

36 

76 

5  1  71 

1 

1 

77 

1 
0     77  , 

Means 

18A 

37  40-5    36 

.Spring.  Summer. 

.\utninn.i  Winter. 

1 

1 

36.60  1      51.5 

38.70'   36.27 

V 

uo 

c 

c 

is 

.jI 

0 

0 

10 

31 

\    II 

37 

!      7 

34 

)  1  16 

30 

:  27 

25 

!  ■  34 

24 

■     39 

25 

39 

23 

;       32 

20 

i       23 

■n 

)       21 

19 

>        14 

25 

7  i  57 


SITKA. 
Year  ENDiNr,  Octohkk  31,  1868.    U.  S.  Co.\st  Survey. 


Mean 
Temp. 

Rainfall. 
Inches. 

Fair  days. 

Cloudy 
days. 

Rainy 

d.iys. 

Snowy 
days. 

0 

January .... 

29.3 

7 

18 

13 

3 

3 

February    . 

36.4 

4  35 

9 

20 

12 

0 

March    .... 

37.8 

572 

4 

27 

5 

13 

April.         .         .         . 

44-7 

J-37 

8 

22 

10 

0 

May       .... 

45-5 

7.55 

9 

22 

18 

2 

Iiuic  .... 

55-3 

1.93 

II 

19 

4 

0 

July        .... 

55-6 

4.20 

3 

28 

18 

0 

.\iigust 

56.4 

4.01 

6 

25 

14 

0 

•September 

51-9 

6.3i 

10 

20 

12 

0 

October 

49.2 

7.27 

3 

28 

14 

0 

.N'oveinber 

36.6 

14.62 

6 

24 

18 

5 

December  . 

30.2 

324 

7 

14 

6 

3 

^  Annual  means 

44.07 

68.07 

106 

260 

•34 

26 

I 


!    Ji 


544  APPENDIX. 

Mkans  ok  Fourtekn  Years'  Oiiskrvations  at  Sitka,  1849  to  1862. 

(Russian  Observers.) 


Spring. 

41.3 
29.836 

55 
i3'WS 

Summer. 

54-3 
29.929 

66 
15.408 

Autumn. 

44.2 
29.749 

72 
30.814 

Winter. 

31-9 

29.730 

57 
22.931 

Whole  year,  i 

Thermometer,  degrees. 
Harometer,  inches  .     . 
Rainy  clays    .... 
Rainfall,  inches .     .     . 

42.8+ 

29.721 

245 

83-33 

^ 


APPENDIX    E 


LATITUDE  AND  LONGITUDE  OV  IMPORTANT  POINTS. 


Locality. 

I.ntiltiilc. 

n         /        II 

37  47  52 

l.iiiinitudo. 

Aiilliiiiily. 

San  Francisco,  California 

0       1      II 
122    23    19 

U.  S.  Coast  Survey. 

\ictoria,  Vancouver  Island 

48  25  30 

123    20  05 

ti         ti           .. 

Fort  Simpson,  H.  C 

54  3i  42  'j:>  23  46 

t«         ti           II 

Village,  Tayakhonsity  Harbor  . 

54  46    0  130  35    0  Tebcnkoff. 

Cape  Kygani  or  Muzon 

54  42    0  132  43  48;  U.  S.  Co.ist  Survey. 

(iardner  Harbor        .... 

5449    G  131  45     oTi'benkoff. 

Anchorage  Tiing.is  Harbor  . 

55  03    oJ'3i  25    oJEtolin. 

Etolin  Harl)or  ..... 

56  31  30,132  20    oZarenib.a. 

Mouth  Chilkaht  River  .... 

59  14    0  134  24  lOiTebenkoff. 

Mouth  Stikinc  River 

56  40    0  132  20    0  Adni.  ch.  2431. 

Mouth  Taku  River        .... 

58  27     0  133  54    O.V.-incouver. 

Mount  Edgecumbe,  2,855  feet  . 

57  02  4S  135  40  i2|Vasilicff 

Cupola,  Governor's  house,  Sitka  . 

57  02  47 

'35  '7  0^,^-  ^-  Coast  Survey.| 

Mount  Vost(Wia,  3,216  feet 

57  03  23 

135  «2  57 

41                   11                     II 

Lincoln  Harbor,  Noquashinski  Ray 

135  25  56     " 

Cape  Spencer 

58  12  30 

136  34    0  Vancouver. 

South  Point,  Lituya  R.ay 

58  34  30 

137  i6    0  La  IVrouso. 

Mount  Fairweather,  14,000  feci 

58  57    0  137  27    0  V.anc<)uvcr. 

South  Point,  Rering  Ray 

59  3 J    0  '39  42    0 

Mount  St.  Elias,  16,000  feet      . 

60  22  36  140  54    0          " 

Western  Mouth,  Copper  River     . 

60  30    0  145  54    0  Serebranikoff. 

Fort  Constantine,  Port  Etches  . 

60  20  18  146  52  50  Ik'lcher. 

Cape  Elisabeth 

59  09    0  151   51     0  Vancouver. 

Coal  Point,  Chng.-ichik  Ray 

59  37  12  151  22  36  .VrchinianchitolT. 

Redoubt,  St.  Nicholas,  Kaknu  River    . 

60  32  12  151    19  18  Heldt. 

Mouth  of  Knik  or  Fire  River   . 

61  08    0  150  07  30  Vancouver. 

i  Mouth  of  Suchitna  River 

61    16  30  150  37     oTcbenkolT. 

Redoubt  Volcano,  11,270  feet   . 

60  28    01 52  38    0 

1  Iliiinuia  Volcano,  12,066  feet 

60  05  30  153  07  30 

;  Cape  Douglas   ..... 

58  52  30i:;3   16    0  Vancouver. 

Flag  staff,  St.  Paul,  K.adi.ik  . 

57  47  45  152  20  57  U.  S.  Coast  Survey. 

Ice  Depot,  Woody  Island 

57  46  57  152  18  37     "         " 

Three  Saints'  Harbor    .... 

57  06  48  153  25  30  Archim.dndritotT, 

Katniai  Village,  Aliaska   . 

58  02  3(1  154  52  48  \'asiliclT. 

House,  Coal  Harbor,  Unga  . 

55  24    0160  49    0  Tebcnkoff. 

Village,  South  Harbor,  Unga  . 

55  to  48  160  27    0  Kashevaroff. 

Shishaldin  Volcano,  8,955  feet 

54  48    0  163  59  30  Kreni't/.in. 

Isunotski  Volcano,  5,525  feet    . 

54  39    0  164  32    0 

35 


ill 


ii 


m'V 


546 


APPENDIX. 


iiiir 


WM 


Locality. 

Latitude. 
0     /     It 

SJ  25  30 

LniiKitiule. 
I 06  49     0 

Authority. 
Sar^cheir. 

Ki)trancc  Iliuliuk  Harbor,  Uiialaslika  . 

U.  S.  ('.  S.  aslr.  St.  Ulaklita  liarlxir 

53  53  5S 

166  32  47 

V.  S.  Coast  Survey. 

Miikiisliin  Volcano,  5,r><)i  lict 

53  52  30 

166  45     0 

TebenkolT. 

Htj^oslova  V(jlcano,  1,000  Icct  . 

53  52 

167  39     0 

Krenit/.in. 

S.  \V.  point  .Svi'chnikolT  l!ay.  -Anilia  Isl'il 

52  02  18 

173  10  30 

SalanuUoiT. 

Anchomnc  K.  side  of  Atka  l.slaiul    . 

52  10  30  174    0  30 

(( 

Village,  Korovinsky  Day 

53  11  54 

174  22  30 

[ttolin. 

Korovinski  I'cak,  4,852  feet 

52  23  30 

174  02      0 

P.ivlotT. 

Si'tkin  IVak,  5,0.53  feet  .... 

53  03  30 

176  06  24 

Ingestroni. 

Teak  Sca-Ottcr  Island,  Kanaga 

5'  55  «« 

'77  30  30 

Salaniatoff. 

Anchora(j;e,  Slavar.assi  liay   . 

51  47    0 

178  OJ     0 

» 

Anch.  Kiriloff  Hay,  Amchitka  . 

51  25  30  180  45    0 

Gib.son. 

Klu'istolV  Peak,  1,873  feet      . 

52  oS    0  iSi  41    0 

(( 

Cape  \Vran)j;ell,  Alti'i  Island     . 

52  58    0  187  34    0 

II 

KlaRsfafl',  (.'liichagoff  Harbor,  Attn 

52  55  42  186  47  18 

II 

Fort  Alexander,  Niisiiergak  River    . 

58  57  06  1 58  18  24 

Wrangcll. 

Fort  St.  Michael,  Norton  Sound  . 

(63  28    0  if)t  51  54 
1  63  28    0  161  44    0 

Kellett. 

Zagoskii 

Unalaklik  Post,  Norton  Sound 

(  ^'3  52  33  'f'O  40    0 
*  f>3  53  M  "'0  30  'f' 

Kashevaroff. 
Zagoskin. 

Hesborough  Island         .... 

64  06  30  161  07    0 

Khranichenko. 

A/iak  or  Sledge  Island     . 

64  29  30  166  01  30 

Heechey. 

Cape  Rodney         

64  39    0 

i66  18    0 

" 

Cape  Spencer,  Port  Clarence    . 

65  16  42 

166  47  48 

II 

Cape  Prince  of  Wales  .... 

65  3i  30 

167  59  12 

II 

Cape  Spanberg          .... 

66  42    0 

'C'3  34    0 

II 

Cape  Lisburne,  840  feet 

68  56    0 

166  08    0 

II 

Cape  licaufort  (coal  vein) 

69  13    0 

<f'3  34    0 

II 

Icy  Cape 

70  20    0 

161  40    0 

II 

Point  Harrow 

71  27    0 

•  5f>  15    0 

•< 

neniarcation  Point         .... 

69  40    0 

141  07  30 

Dease  &  Sitnpson. 

West  Cape,  St.  George's,  Pribyloflf  Islands 

5^'  38  18 

169  44    0  ArchimandritolT. 

West  Cape,  St.  Paul,  Pribyloff  Islands 

57  '0  12 

170  01  06  TebenkolT. 

Cajie  I'pright,  S.  E.  P't,  St.  Matthew  Isl'd 

60  18    0 

172  04    0  Liitke. 

Cape  lUolin,  North  Point,  Ni'inivak  Island 

60  31     0 

165  50    0  TebenkofT. 

S.  K.  Cape,  St.  Lawrence  Island   . 

62  57    0 

169  24     5  Pavloff. 

N.  W.  Cape,  St.  Lawrence  Island     . 

63  51   12  171  29    0  Heechey. 

Ukivok  or  King  Island,  750  feet    . 

64  58  30  167  58    0  Khranichiinko. 

Fairway  Rock 

65  38  36  168  43  42 

Heechey. 

Middle  of   Channel    between    the    Dio- 

(  65  48  36  168  56  30 

Adni.  ch.  2435. 

tuedes,  U.  S.  boundary  line     . 

1  65  47  48  168  58    0  TebenkofT. 

End  of  Sandspit,  Plover  Hay    . 

64  22  25  173  30  32  Prof.  Asaph  Hall. 

East  Cape  of  Asia          .... 

66  03  06  169  43  48  Heechey. 

Mouth  of  .Vn.adyr  River    . 

64  35  40  183  28  10  Russi.an  charts. 

Cape  St.  Thaddeus,  Kamchatka   . 

62  40    0  180  36  20        "            " 

Amatignak  Island.     Most  southern  point 

1  51   19    c  179  08  30  Gibson. 
1  51   12    017905    0  .Sahimatoff. 

of  Alaska  Territory     . 

APPENDIX    F 


1 


VOCAUULARIES. 

The  spelling  of  the  vocabularies  obtained  from  other  authors  has 
not  been  altered.  Most  of  them  should  be  pronounced  as  in  German 
In  baur's  vocabularies  "i"  is  always  short,  otherwise  as  in  German 
Stimi)son's  is  reduced  to  the  Smithsonian  standard  as  given  in  the 
nislruct.ons  in  Kthnology  and  Philology.  I„  my  own  the  pronunciation 
IS  as  m  Kngl.sh  with  the  following  rules:  "u"  is  long  as  in  Z«/v 
otherwise  as  in  a,/> ;  "  a  "  as  in  father ;  but  all  vowels  followed  bv  a  con- 
sonant in  the  last  syllable  of  words  are  short,  unless  otherwise  indicated 
l-ong  "a"  in  the  last  syllable  is  denoted  by  the  addition  of  the  letter 
"h";  "ch"  as  in  c/iunh;  "kh"  like  German  "ch"  in  wck/wr;  <'g" 
always  hard  ;  "th"  soft  ;  and  "ng"  a  rolling  nasal,  as  in  French.' 

I  am  under  great  obligations  to  iMr.  George  Gibbs  for  advice  and 
assistance  in  this  part  of  the  work. 

My  own  vocabularies  were  collected  with  the  utmost  care,  and  verified 
many  times  over,  before  I  left  the  country. 

I  have  j)honetically  translated  from  the  Russian,  Wrangell's  Innuit 
\ocabulary  of  the  Kuskoquim,  as  in  its  former  state  it  was  inaccessible 
to  many  students. 


m\ 


ml 


\\h 


J 


il 


'  i 


T 


548 


Ari'KNDIX. 


f 


Si'otK. 
Kamii.v. 
Tribe. 


OKAKIAN. 


Al.KUriAN. 

Uii.il.Ukaii. 


Woin.iii  Aiin.ininiik 

Wile  jAni'K.'i 

Huy  Ant'klok 

(iir'  'Acli.Klok 

(.'hit''  iTiiLinhu 

Water  |  r.in.uh 

Snow  |K.iiiiL'li 

lio  Krladi 

K.tin  Cliii  liiadi 

Land  jChl.'itih 

Islaiul  .('lianaink 
'"'iro  Nimiaih 

Ui'iiKli'cr  Itliayiik 

Kisli  jKaih 
Knife        Kaiulich 


illKlcl 

Macht'fsclik 

Had 

M.icR'i'iloli- 

|kan 

lti« 

Aiiianach 

Little 

An};tiiiiia(l.i- 

jkalaU 

Hot 

Akivaksciik 

c:oia 

Kiiianacli 

I 

Tinn 

Voil 

Tliiiu) 

Me,  shf, 

[,./•  it 

Inan 

\'c.s 

Ann 

No 

One 
Two 
Tlircc 

Four 
l''ivc 
Six 

Seven 
liight 

Nine 

■'"en 
Authority. 


Rogtiio 

Atakan 

Alaili 

KaiiUjanrm 

Sitcliin 

'l\  iiann 

Atyoon 

Talann 
Kanitchin 

Sitchinin 
Atik. 


Saur. 


Atknii. 


'I'oioili 
Aiyagar 
Aiyauai 
Anekthok 

( )gi'nilikin 
Toigon 

'I'aangak 
Kaneek 

K  ;liak 
( 'liiiitakik 


nhadak 

Noshck?* 


Clii'Hak 
Taangik 
Kinnatli 
Itkayi'di 
K.oail\ 
Unga/chi- 

|sl,i,, 
(  lii/dii'lik 
.Malciiccsh- 
elikan 
Tangcicllik     Antvadoiik 
Angonolokn 


Innuit. 


Akwin 
Agnak 


Mik 
Kanichteliak 


Siliiiadiliik 

Niinna 

knik 


(  liii^.tulii); 
mill. 

Nngidneiik 
.\ganaK 


Ang.iiyiiii 

|gok 
.Mik 
K.ilagak 


KiiiiiAkmiiiI 

.Niikalnyak 

.Ag.niok 
'Nuiiga 
I  I'anughak 

lAggi'.ikak 
I'liyiikh 

I'angak 
Anneg 


Akvadiclik 

Kinganalik 

Ki-cn 
Ingaan 

Ikoon 
Aang 
M.isclikan 

Allokan 

.Xlluk 

K.iiikoDn 

Shiiiliin 

Chang 

Attooii 

Oinng 

Kamt.scliing 

Sitcliing 

Nasi:k 

Saur. 


Nglia 

Uiiingnia 
l.'l)iti 

Oiitn 


.Ataoiichik 

.Aipa 

I'innadfik 

.Sdit.iinik 

Taliniik 

Aghvinik 

(2  repeat) 
(j  repeat) 

{4  repeal) 


I'l  li.tgiik        'Tsiliigo 
Kitiililoiik      Kidak 


Nouna 


Nu>livrKAK- 
null. 

Agiim 
Agnak 


Mik 
Kaiinikak 


'I'liaclilnk  i 


Noona  Notina 

Kiglilak  Kiglii.ik 

Knakiik  Knok  Knik 

K.inaL't  r<)ondi)<>       I 

I"katlink       jl'ikai  lilewt    JNiinka 
Nowgudiak  1 1'.sdiangieik  Ulviak 


A/igtoak 
Asseelrok 

Aiiguk 


.Vni.slikak 
Mikango-       Meyuk 

Ishak 
.Magaklituk 


Aiiaditok 

Koo-i 
Tlpit 

I  >utu 


.\tdiinu"ik 

Malgook 

I'innagon 

Sditain.iu 

I'aiiniiii 

.\k\viljin 

Malchi-iiin 
Ininolgin 

Konlinujan 


lie,  rc-|)cat)       Koulin 


<;ii) 


w 


range! 


\ogto; 

I'Mtznaio.c 

Choo-i 
Cld'pit 

<  )ona 

Ang 

I'edok 

Adidnk 

.Malogli 

I'ingaien 

Stamtn 

I'alini.n) 


Anioak 


iN  nglia 

I  Iwigiiia 
■l.liit 

rkna 


Ataoudiik 
Aipa 
I'inanvak 
S'l  lianiit 
Taliniit 


Agowinligin  Awinnat 
Malchugnii    (2  repeat) 
Inglugin        1(3  repeat) 

Kullcngaien  (4  repeat) 


Kollen 
Saner. 


\K< 


V,\h\y. 


The  Russia  1  lor  knife  is  A\iz/iiA: 


I'ina 


T 


COMrAKATlVK   VOCAIUJLAKIKS. 


549 


OKAKIAN. 

Inniiii, 
Kiiskwi'iKtnfll'l    l''.ki^gniill.       t^iuillKHiOl.   |     M.^liU'iiuit  K.ivI.^K'II"!     I  ('"•''nl.iiiiliv 


'I  rsKi. 


(  liii'kliik 
mill. 

Vunnl  iViik  |\'rit  K'mik  I'.'mik  llniiuk  Viik 

Anii.ik  <»|,'h,in;ik  <  )nir;iiiiit  (»k'.ini)k  <  iii'n'mit         Am.ik  Aii.ik 

N\ili);;i  Niilikliiih  .\iili,i)'kii  .^^iilttkii  'NuUt'H.'i          Niili.i  Niilikcrt 

r.iiini.ihi-  rraiiini'iwil- I j ...    Miiklituk  Mnj'ilciat'k' 


No/cac 


Ivak 
juik 


Mik 
K.iiiik- 

|shak 
Cliik 


Ink 


On'g'iuk 

Milk 
rn'yfik 

('lit'ckrik 


l'fim'i'^;liiili  l'un(i'f;luili    ,  I'linirnlMli 


(  lili.iktiik     ll>i/lii'ikli 

!  |tuk 

.N'liiina  Nii'mili 

riikusti'ik 

Kiiik  Kaiii'ik 

jTiiiiiii  riiii'tiik 

Ik.iliiiik         N'likiit 
I  liivi(  link    (  liiwik 

i..    ..    I"^""^ 


Diig'iiik        Oiiiaylik 

'Milk  hii'niik 

Sladiliktuk  rphiin' 


.Scko 


.St'k< 


Aiii;iylik 
Iniiniik 


|ak; 
Niviarniar-  Aniiiiiliac 


Inii'k 


Kiiiilck 
Milk 


Kaniktiik       (ioviksoak   Kaiiig 


Si'k. 


IroMik  Chium) 


l^^csikh'tiik  Sc'c-iilrik'tuk:  iKwannifik      Kcipsi'iliik  i\(|iciiri{{ 


Knrii^nag 
("lakliiik 

Ipak 
Oiitoiali- 


iKiklu  ha- 

Iti.t 
ll'.ulmak 

llwihka 
i'l-l'it 

I, ,  . 
lamina 


Ataiichik 


Nu'niH'li  NTi'iiiu-li 

Ki');iklitiik  Kikliliik 

'Kiiiik  Ik'iilk 

'rmi'iiik  Tim'irik 

l'!ki>l'li'\vit  Iki'itlili'uik 

Cliiwik  t'liow'ik 


Asi'ikhtuk 
Assci'ttik 

Oii'n'fik 
Mccknk 


Asiklitok 
Asci'luk 

On'n'iik 
Mi'ktik 


Nakfi'riik 
Asliu'ruk 

i 

<  iii^'yiuk 

Mikitlii'iiik 


NTi'iincli 

Kikht.ik 

Ikiiiik 

Trni'luk 

I'.ki'illi'liik 

Cliiwik 


Kritrtu'nt;'-   Kusliunguk 


1 


Xiiig'liik-     Kwiklita-    |Allai)aii 

I  Ink  I  nail 

Hwili  Wi'inKa         Wi'inga 

Ik'lil'wit      ilkh'lcpil     Ill'Icwit 
I 

U'na  l"na 

Iluokali      Wall  !\Vali 

I'cctuk  iVcliik         ll'tt'ilHik 


Nfma  N'finna 

Kiihtitak     Kildict 
lM>;iR'k  I^I>i;;k 

'I'^ikti)  Kiiiiiaik 

Aiilisl(;ak  !    

.Sowik  (liawik 


.N'aku'ruk       Ciiksok 
Asiunik  Assc'tnar-    \ 

|iiiik 

<  111  liu'iiik  '  Annwdk  i 
Mik.Mir(')W-  Kiilkiuk  I 
I  ink 


Kuslifmj^'uk 

Allaiuli 

\N  uiijja 
jll'lqiit 

iU'na 
Wall 
tl'o'liik 


Kiisapok 

Nigltk 

Uanga 
IMit 

<  )ina 

lAak 
'Nagga 


( ioiiin 
Uoot 

I'.n'kau 

Kv 

Al'cah 


|At()w'siiiiiik    Atausik 
iMahlKHiik     'Arlaik 


'  All  liijf 
M.icJnik 


Ali')Wi'luik    .Al('pwsik      jAi'Uvsik 
Malkhuk     JMahliu'kh    Malaruk      iM.ilrfikt 
r.iinaivak     I'in^Aicn       I'ln^.-iiiik     ,1'inyiiM'it        ,  rinyiisfi'iiik    I'iii^.ijiiak    |l'iiiai-in 
TVIianiik    iT'stamcn      Sc'st.'iiiiat   'Sctcniat  Slainiiiik         Sissiiiiiat      .Si.iiiku  h 

Talimik         Tckniut       'rt'lcmat        Tt'lciiial  'rfli'inuiiik    '■rflliiiiat      ['I'lliiii.ict 

Akhvinok     Ag\viniilcet|lLlu'iksiit      Anliwiiiu-       .Ai^invinfi'li-  'Aibinick      lArviiigt 

I  |lc-cl  I  milk 

Amaiikhva- Maloodin-  Malfiksip-    ■ , ■ [  | 

[naiiv  |rilit  |mili'ii  Maliluilitai;h\\iii'ulict  .Arlckli  Maiai viiif^t 

I'inaiviak      Pinganulit    rinaiiiksip-  I'inyiisiiiiil.igliwiiifilcLt        Arlnjuik-      l'in^;aivin)4t 

I         [nfilcct  IpinyuKut 


|C"lilaniiak- 
I       |vaii.itni 
|Kiilliiiik        Kfi'linak 

liacr 


Kulinolit      Ki'iliiiolvlii   Ki'xjlinotv- 


liik 


I 


Dall. 


Kolliinluct 

Koliit 


Stamiluclig 
Ki)t'Ia 


Kgcde.     ,  Hail  (part). 


Kolin  KiM'ikct  Kn(^liniik 

JJali.      I        Uall.  Dall. 

•  Same  in  both  dialcct.s.     Substantive  and  adjective  forms  given. 
t  Mah-uk  (two,  noun),  Mahlronik  (two  of  anything),  /fiarov  Ai/>ii  (a  pair),  oflc-n  nii.\i(t 
ill  vocabularies. 


'^ 


!!■  'i:p 


r^jf 


ill 

II  Ml!  1 1 


lii.   i 

IIP.! 


I 


^^m:^-. 


550 

APPENDIX. 

STOCK. 

INDIAN. 

Family. 

Thlinkbt. 

1 

(MlDDUK  OR 

Tribe. 

KygAni. 

Sftkakwan. 

Stakhfnkwan. 

YAkutat. 

Ugaldntsi. 
Tagoan 

AhteiM. 
T'kcehl 

, 

Man 

Ketling 

'ivakh 

k'a 

'Ka 

Woman 

I -adder 

Shawath 

Sh.ihwat 

Sha-wut       Kaiyalit'hel 

Shaat 

Wife 
Boy 

I'tsar 
EetHnga- 
[hiitzo 

lieshel 
IKissar.ee 

Achshct 
Yetekvv' 

Sict 

1 



Oirl 

ladderluit- 

Stiaat'k 

Shaketsko 

Kelikuts- 

l/.o 

[kuki' 

Chief 

Ithigata 

Ankai) 

Ank(')\va 

Kriniaiiete    Kulyahaityeh 

Kaskayuh 

Water 

Ilunt'l 

I  lee-en 

llehn 

Hcin            ,Kahyah 

T'fi-vou 

Snow 

Ti)W(jvv 

T'lait 

Kleht 

ILait 

Ilet'i 

.\ataga 

Ice 

Kelk 

Tceght 

Tcekli 

Titz 

Tetstch 

T'ten 

Rain 

•Talla 

Seev-va 

Scewh 

.Seiw 

Kulyeh 

Kyaii-yan 

Land 

Klik 

Ta-uk 

Khitk' 

Flittik 

T.stcha 

r'tstchesh 

Island 
Fire 

Kwai 
Lannu 

Tithkaan 

Kat'h 
K'hann 

Tzakutshu 
Kun 

'l"klmn 

' 

Taku.dv 

Deer 

Kait 

Kfcahkan 

Kohkan 

Natllagc 

1  Fyanava 

Annahvch 

Fisii 

*Tscenah 

Ahl.aat 

Tach 

Haat 

Tvahychya 

T'kluk'yai 

1 

Knife 
(lood 
Had 

*Ivutkwan 

Lai 

Tamer 

iriceta 
Akai 
Klaikoas- 
[kai 

KIccta 
Yck-keh 
Klehtloosh- 
[keh 

Th'lcita 

Kutzu-uva 

Kushiatu 

Hig 

You-onc 

Atlccn 

Alklchn 

Aht'layn 
Yakulkutz- 

Kulaygeh 

Talkhak 

Liltie 

Ehudso 

Akwitko 

Yehkokcuk 

Yakutchkh 

Takhfi- 

ku 

[uncli 

Hot 

Ilunan 

Tahal 

Ycttah 

Stehfiva  ia 

Kafiestieh- 
jkokl 

Xo.ilkhun 

Cold 

Tut 

Tcctsaht 

Coo.s'ah't 

Coosa-aat 

Kjtectl'ka 

Atl'iych 

I 

♦Tee-a 

Khat 

Ilutt 

Kluitak 

r.  00-00 

Sciii 

Vou 

*rah-a 

.Mahyeh 

Weh 

Wav-ch 

1,1 

Nenn 

I  le,  she, 
[or  it 

*Lah-a 

Youta 

[looh 

Yoota 



Vcs 

♦Aang 
*Kuin 
Scjuanson 

Aha 

Ah 

Ee 

.Vo 
One 

Klekha 
Klaikh 

Kleh!: 
Klchth 

Tikh 
T-jatlavk 

S'tchelkai 

T-lkinkeh 

Two 

Stun 

Taiegh 

Teh-iich 

rec-ukh       Loatel 

Xatayakiia 

Three 

Kiunet 

Nitgh 

.\iisk 

Xoutik        I'l'atlkoa 

Taakcii 

Four 

Stansicn 

Tahkoon 

Tahkc'mc 

Tahkoan      K.ihiKakuya 

Tiiinki 

Five 

Klaith 

Kctchecn 

KL'Ccliin 

K(.'chin        iT'soanch 

Alchcni 

Si.\ 

Klunitch 

Klaitoosec 

Klehtoosha 

Kleet-ho-     Tsin 
[sho 

Kastaani 

1 

Seven 

Sekwa 

Taghatoo- 
fso 

T'hi'itoosha 

Tuhaatwo- ,  Latctsin 
[sho! 

Kontsegai 

Eight 

Stansioner 

Nitghtatu- 
[so 

Niskatoosha 

Nututwo-     Katetsin 
[sho' 

T'kladenki 

1 

Nine 

Klathsqu- 

Kooshak 

Koshuku 

Koshuk       Kutkteh 

T'klakolcli 

[anson 

1 

Ten 

Klath 

Chinkat 

Chinkat 

Chinkaett 

Yakakh 

Plazha 

I 

Authority. 

Gibbs. 

Lisiansky. 

Gibbs. 

Gibbs. 

Wrangell. 

Wrangell. 

1 

■"'  Skitagitt  village. 


COMPARATIVE  VOCABULARIES. 


(Mmi)i.K  OB 

AliteoA. 

T'kcehl 
Shaat 


ch 


okl 


Kaskayuh 

I'Ti-you 

Natiiga 

T'tcn 

Kyah-yan 

T'tstchesh 

r'kii'un 

Annahyeh 

T'klukyai 


Talkhak 
Talclui- 

lunch 
Xoalkliun 

\triych 

Schi 

Ncnn 


S'tclulkai 

Natayakha 

Taakcli 

TinnUi 

Alclicni 

Kastaani 

Kontscgai 

T'kladenki 

T'klakolch 

Plazha 


1.    1  Wrangcll. 


55' 


INDIAN. 

Kl'tchin)  Tinnkh. 

(Weste 

K.iiviihkliat.-in.i» 
(L'liikiik). 

RN  OR  Tana)  ' 

I'INNBH. 

KenAiteiii, 

Teii.-in-kutcli'iii. 

KutchAkutch'in. 

K,Uyukliat.^na 
CNorllicisternV 

UiLikluitAna. 

N'll.sllL'Il 

Tcnah 

Tin'jce 

Tenahyfi' 

Tcnahvu' 

Tcn.ih 

Kissin 

Soltanah 

'lrin'i(3h 

.Sultana 

T'sult 

Solt'an 

Ote 
Chulkoya 

At 

'I'tsicah 

(He 
Vukccoza 

( )tc 
Sak'hce 

( )lc 
Kcc-i)S 

r»'kanikna 

Keiscnkooyah 

Tenahkotloh 

Necchit 

Kohtlyozah 
Ty<>nc 

Soltanvoza 

Kecshka 

Tai-(')nc 

Kah-keh 

Tv<'ine 

Tyi'me 

Miini 

Toij 

Chu 

Too 

Too 

Too 

lim;ii:l» 

Vuh 

Zah 

XTitiiligah 

Nt.afigah 

Nutahgah 

\lll-lllCC 

T'hun 

T'tun 

T'hun 

Than 

I'tun 

lirkouii 

Tatrchiin 

T'siii 

At'khun 

Al'kiinch 

At'khun 

Alch-nin 

X'luih 

Wis 
Khun 

Nun 

X'juh 

Ko 

Xoo 

IVasii 

K'hun 

■|-a!isi 

'I'ahkoiMia 

TahTik'u' 

I'atchih 

Mitzikh 

Vut-zaih 

.■\n(')yah 

Aiioyh' 

Mitzikh 

l.uka 

iricc-wch 

T'thluk 

Ntliyuh 

Tht'kakh' 

.Malnnt'iii 

Kvaki 

KlahsiU 

K'sih 

Klahkad('ina 

T'kadi'mc 

l"lalikad('>na 

I'ciliallcn 

Ne/.(')on 

Nirzih 

Ncczix'in 

Xfzi()('>n 

XahziMM', 

I'soohcclta 

Klahkdh 

Nizikwah 

Tsatklahka 

Ts'talagha 

T'soklahka 

Tii;ilnich 

N'choh 

Choh 

X'koh 

N'tsooh 

N'koh 

'I'akliih 

N'siitloh 

T'sul 

Nookootsah 

Xooko(')jah 

Xookatzah 

Al.a 

Ilonalkoh 

Nccdha 

At'klecbah 

Ilonalikoh 

Alccbuh 

Th'kitchan 

Ivuniki'ih 

Nih'-kudh 

Azu' 

Atzfi' 

Azu' 

Schi 

Utiin 

Sih 

Sih 

Sih 

Sih 

N'linn 

Nun 

Xun 

X"neh 

X'nch 

X'nih 

l£niuin 

Yohunnch 

Yahtun 

M'mh' 

M'mh' 

M'ni'iih 

Ah-hah 
\"tah-gah 

A-h.i 
Xo-k\vah 

Iloh 
X'tvahoh 

Ah 
X't.ah 

lloh 
N'tahguh 



Silki 

Cholhlukt'h 

Chithluk 

Kavthlukch 

Kavthlukch 

Kavtlilukct 

Til  ha 

Nahliehtih' 

Nikai 

N'tav-kth 

X'lavkhnch 

N'l.iviihkch 

rciiiki 

'rahgi'ih 

Tic-ik 

T.'.kaii 

Tiikhncii 

Toiikah 

Tiiiki 

'I'ingah 

Tahng 

Tcnikch 

TiMiikhnch 

'I'inkce 

•J'.sUihi 

Kttudsinala 

Clicrlhika'nli 

Kctudnala 

Kctsinala 

Kctuil.siiiala 

Koutsiiii 

Xikctahgah 

Xihkci.ti-ick 

Tcnankavt- 

Tonankav- 

Tonankiivth- 

(luka 
Tenanotay- 

jtlniket 

liuket 

Kiiitschougoni 

Tahtsuntseh 

Etschdctsen- 

Tonanolav- 

Tonanotavu- 

(ckai 

|kch 

Ikch 

Ikch 

i.'lakoiili 

1 

Ncketi'ingkch 

Nikcct.ang 

Niltadinkch 

Tl'kad'nkay 

Xihkadinkch 

1 

Lgitschitchou 

Mintsuhtl 

Mcnchudneh- 

IvaytUikuki'il- 

Nikozndla- 

Kavthlukct- 

[kokwa 

(la 

[knvthluk- 
(clikulla 

[kill  yell 

Kli-Diijoun 

Chilodeltah 

Chithlukcho- 

Nikognalah 

N  i.oznailta 

Xcuk(V.iiala 

(tcin 

Wrangcll. 

Dull. 

Kcnnicott. 

Dall. 

Dall. 

Dall. 

*  The  I'lukiik  and  northeastern  Tngaliks  arc  among  the  most  widely  separated 
branches  of  that  great  tribe.    The  latter  live  near  the  mouth  of  the  Tanani>h  River. 


I  m 


!    W 

\    1  . 
i    ■ 
1 

'  i     ■  ■■ 

I 

1}  i 
mMWM 

1 ' 


11 


III 


ll;i  Ji'lR 


552 


APPENDIX. 


COMPARATIVE  VOCABULARY  OF  EAST   SIBERIAN  TRIBES. 


English. 

Chukchbb. 

Ylkagik. 

Kamshadale. 

TUNUOOSE. 

I 
Yakut. 

Saur. 

Authority. 
Man 

Stimpson  &  Hall. 
Ke-lowl-tee 

Saur. 
Toromma 

Saur. 

Saur, 

Uskaams 

Bev 

Kissoe                 \ 

Woman 
Boy 

Na-oois-kun 
Nin-kai-kai 



Luhunjae 

I'ahatsh' 

Ogo 

Girl 

Ni-okuk-ka 

Vaiendendi 

Ch-tshitshoo 

Choorkan 

Keesa 

Infant 

Nin-nai-mukka 

Lukoolu 

I'ahatshitsh 

Kootian 

Kutuogo 

My  Father 

En-piiti-iisl;iii 

Ktchea 

Is-ch 

Amai 

Agam 

My  Mother 

F.ii-paniuo 

.\mea 

Na?-ch 

Eni 

lya 

Husband 

Oncni'rinkalow 

Vadoo 

Skoch 

Edee 

Crim 

Wife 

Komningnoak 

Alwaley 

Squa-aw 

Akee 

Vaghtarim 

.My  Son 

.Viinki 

Antoo 

I'a-atsh 

Oal 

Daughter 

Howokukah 

Marhloo 

Sooguing 

Ghoorkan 

Keesini 

My  Brother 

Esltamatiiitga 

Tshatsha 

K'tshidzshi 

.•\kan 

Oobagim 

My  Sister 

Siikctihii^'ii 

Pawa 

Kos-choo 

Ekin 

Agasim              j 

I'eople 

Tsuts-tsin 

( )mino 

Quaskoo 

Bevil 

Omung              1 

Head 

[.Ml-a'OOt 

lok 

T'choosa 

Del 

Bass 

Hair 

Keru-g\vee-te 

Man.ill.ie 

Kotjbit 

Xioorit 

Assim 

Face 

Locl-kun 

Xeatsha 

(^ua-.igh 

Itti 

Sirai 

Forehead 

A'li-il 

I-oanguitshel 

I'shilgua 

Omkat 

Suis 

Ear 

Wc-loot 

Oononima 

E-ew ;  e-cwt 

Korot 

Kugach 

Eye 

Dil-v;ite 

.\ngzsha 

Nannit 

Kasak 

Nose 

Vukah 

longul 

Kaangkaatig 

O'got 

Mooron 

Mouth 

Ekuruge 

Anga 

Kuz-ha 

Amga 

Aiyach 

Tongue 

Eleel 

Onnor 

Nutshel 

Lnga 

Till 

Teeth 

Retinta 

T(Sdy           [bi 

Kuppet 

Itsh 

Tees 

Beard 

.\alute 

.Angenbuguel- 

K"ko-ookat 

Tshurkan 

Buitik 

Xeck 

Actin 

Jomuel 

Mitle 

Mivon 

.Moinung 

Arm 
Hand 

Fingers 

.Menyeet 
Guer-eelte 
Kyi  yet 
Wcr-oot 

N'ungean 

Nug:Ul 
Pe-enditsh.i 

Settoo 
Settoo 
P'koida 

Illi 

Gal 
Kabr 

Nails 

Onz-shil 

Ko-uda 

Osta 

Tiugrach 

IJodv 

Mv-sho 

Tshul 

Inga'tak 

Ettim 

Leg 
Foot 

Oet-got 
Ver-oot 

Noel 

Th-quatshoo 

Boodel 

Attach 

Toes 
Bone 

Kah-00-note 
Ahtam 

Isni 

.'^mun 

T'hamtshoo 

Umok 

Heart 

Leel-ge 

Tshi)oenzsha 

Nokguek 

Me  wan 

Surach 

Blood 

Pao-kooroogin 

Liopkiil 

Messon 

Soogial 

Ghan 

Chief 
Friend 

Herem 

I'mti^ctHiig 

.\lnindsha 
Aghtnia 

Toyou 
Doghor 

Kalial 

House 

Vaninga 

Xuma 

Kisut 

Dzsho 

Balagan 

Kettle 
Arrow 
Axe 

Koo-kcng-oo 

May-ar-kum 

.\d-doo-at 

Kukua 

Xoonunidzshi 

Kvas(|ua 

Tabor 

Suijai 

Knife 

Waal-ye 

Tshagoia 

Watshoo 

liusak  ;  buh.ik 

Canoe 

l(boat) 
Shoes 

Kai-e-wyte 

Aktshel 

Bat 

l(boot) 

Grdskut 
Aa-vuk 

Sky 

Kundshu 

Kochan 

Gi'iolbka 

Chattan 

Sun 

Tee-re-kee 

elonsha 

Qua-atsh 

Nultian 

Kuin 

Moon 

Veel-gin 

Kininsha 



Begh 

Ooi 

(lias 
Kloh,  n 
IK.- 
iloar 

Wolf 

FIv 

I''c;ither> 

Duck 

ImsIi 

Name 

White 

Black 

Red 

r.liie 

Vcilow 

(Iricii 

fiicat 

Small 

Strong 

l_)kl 

Ciciod 


COMPARATIVE   VOCABULARY 


553 


English. 


Authority. 

Star 

Dav 

-Nifjlit 

Light 

Darkness 

Morning 

Evening 

.Spring 

Slimmer 

Autumn 

Winter 

,\Vind 

^Thunder 

Linhtning 

Rain 

Snow 

Hail 

Fire 

Water 

Ice 

The  Earth 

Land 

Sea 

River 

Lai<e 

Valley 

Hill,  mountain 

Island 

Stone 

Salt 

I  Iron 

Tree 

AVood 

jLeaf 

'Bark 

Clrass 

Flesh,  meat 

Dog 

Hear 

Wolf 

Flv 

I'eathers 

Duck 

Fish 

N'anie 

White 

Hlack 

Red 

lilue 

Vellow 

(ireen 

(ireat 

Small 

Strong 

Did 

Good 


Chukchee. 


Stimpson  S:  Hall. 


Enger-tee 

E'-nali 

Minkiim 


E'gci-oy 


Aldriiin 

La-lamdrole 

\  'ivgo 

Ecl-kowwow 

Vcnka-ga-ka 

I'ee-na-gee 

I-lyle 

Pennulia 

Lee-me-oo-nut 

Tin-tin 

Ute.ska 

Verigen 

Ta-oo-tee 

Wav-am 

Gcftkiii 

Lii-iuigiit 

Xup-per-am 

EHoer 

\V(')0-k\vin 

Tau-tah 

Kelgwit' 

06-te 

Wce-'i'ccr 

Oo-til'-yeet 

Wa-utc'h 

Tukiskin 

Hyd-tydt 

Kai-ing-ha 


YUKAOIR. 


Saur. 

Lerungiindshia 

I'ondshirka 

Emmel 

I'ondshirka 

Emmitsh 

L'nhaiel 

I'oinjuletsk 

I'ora 

ruga 

Nada 

Zshendsha 

Ulejennie 

I-cndu 

liorongille 

Tiba 

Pukoelli 

[archandiva 

l.otshei 

( )nd/shi 

larka 


Kamshauale.    Tungoose. 


Saur. 


Saur. 


KoJkwa 


Osikat 
Ining 
iGolban 


Tek 
Moorak 

Anganal 


Ashdoo 

Tapkitan 

r.shukatsho()')odan 
Iniandra 


Pangitsh 
Ee-ec  ;  i-i 


Hota 


I  Moo 
jBookus 


Levje 

Tshohul 

Onnong 

Jalgyl 

I'ondsh(')rkoni 

IVa 

Onmud 

Pea 

Logodunshinu 

Lundiil 

Tshall 


.Symt 
N'ingI 


:Tor 
Nam 
Okat 


Aal 
Saniatsh 

Pepiun 
Quatshoo 


Paldshitsha 
j Tsangar 
iOolega 
lEt 

Fababa 


iT'haltal 
Kossa 
Kasa 


IVa/galdngiii 

Een-a 

Neel-yuk-ki- 

Noo-ki-ing 
.Slia-li'ik-ki-inj; 
S/iiiy7iJ(ii>v7i' 
Pi>yuta-t(i-liii 

Nimiyen'ki 

Puliikin 

Ar-ahmdsin 

fitke 

Ma-chin'-ka 


Nilendoma 
'Xontondaul 

Pugelbi 

jOndzshinonda 
iAnnil 
!\eve 


.'\iniaivi 

Kelenni 

l.uhan/shanni 

'FshaUolonni 

JTshakolonni 

Tshomoi 

Lnkun 

Addi 


Quaniotiii 
N'gach 

.Msliingush 
Etshoo 
Ilagaach 
Attagho 


I  )z,shool 
Tak 


F.bdernia 
Oorta 

Oolra 
Nin 


I    

( )omta 
Detle 
Xcki 
( )lra 
( lerbin 
Geltadi 

I    


Tshaang        Koolani 


Niichsonne 


Tsh'.ilban 
Ekzsham 
Xukishoo- 


Saur. 


Solus 

Kuin 

Tuin 

.Sirdik 

Kharanga 

Erdec 

Ke-e.sse 

Saas 

Sacin  ;  sovin 

Kuissan  ;  kui- 

Kisim        (san 

Tvil 

Eting 

Tshagilgan 

.Saniir 

fhar 

Toll  on 

O-at 

Oo 

Poos 


Sirr 

Paiglial 

Vrri.s 

Koel 

Cliodu 

Seer 

.\rre 

Faas 

Tus 

Tiniur 

Mass 


sasir 


Sebcrdak 
Chatteuk 


Zachsirga         ' 

.Siiinnit 

Chanmgatsha 

I 

P.alvk  i 

Aatta  ' 

Irungk 

i 

Chara  [ 

Kasil 

iKeochtinoo      I 
Keoch 
Keoch 
( )()lachan 
Kiitshugai 


Sagdi 


[kan  Kittinach 


!i  b; 


I'i 


r 


„,ii 


554 


APPENDIX. 


Knglish. 


Authority. 

Ba.l 

Cold 

Warm 

I 

Thou 

He 

VVc 

Ye 

To-day 

Yesterday 

Fo-morrow 

Yes 

No 

One 

Two 

Three 

Four 

Five 

Six 

Seven 

Eight 

Nine 

Ten 
Twenty 

Eating 
l)riiii<ing 
To  riii\ 
To  d^uKC 
To  sing 

Sleep 

To  speak 

To  see 

To  kill 
To  sit 
To  stand 
To  go 
To  come 


Chukchbk. 


YUKAGIR. 


Stimpson  &  Hall. 


At-kin 

Fuk-i-yu'-yurk 

Ohio 

Ichcin 

ITia 

En' kail 

d'lir-oiit' 
Eiiiiai 

Ie-u<in 

Kr'-go-lct 

Sow-soo  ;  i, 

Ta  ap 

Kn'-ge  ;  nira 

Mecr-er 

()o-di)kc 

Gcr-ar'k 

Midlc-din'ge 

Nam-te 

Yeranrt-ting 

One-asink 


Men-eet-ke 


Mun-kom-it-too 

Mun-cc-inice 

MuM-kitchcn-ta 

Mun-cc-do-dite 

Mcn-tce-pa-ga 

Min-yil'-ki 


Saur. 


I'ondzshetsh 

I'ugatsh 

Matak 

Tat 

Tundal 

Mitek 

Titlak 

Pondzshirko- 
(ma 

Nengandshe 
lOngoie 
|Tat 

Oiley 
jlrkcn 
'Antachlon 
llalon 
jlclahton 
JEnganlon 
jMalghialon 
ll'urchion 

Malghialach- 

I  I'o" 

Chuniirki-el- 

[lendzshien 
Kuni-cila 
Attachongo- 

|niclla 
I,angdal  (ate) 
Ontlzsiiok 
Tshuenzshi 
l.ongdok 
Jagtak 

lunzshuk 


Mun-*')W-tow-a  Aniak 


Mun-ce  Icci-pit-  Umat 

Mun-tin-pit-k(j  j    

Min-wako-mo   j    

K'ttl-ki'ithivin         ( )nj;-hak 


Kamsiiaualb. 


Saur. 


Adkang 


TUNGOOSE. 


Saur. 


Konima 
Kiz 


Daangoo 

Aati 

liokuan 

La 

Iski 

Kcmmis 

N'ittanoo 

rshus(|uat 

Fsaascha 

Koonulas 

Kilkoas 

Ittachtenu 

Fshoktenu 

Tshaktanak 

Komtook 
Kaskumtukcr 


Iguin 

(Ihochsin 

Bee 

I'.oo 

Nongenatshe 

Nonganooije 

Ellia 


Yakut. 


Saur, 


1 


Ya 

Atcha 

Ooniun 

Dzshur 

i:ian 

Digon 

Tongon 

Kilkok 

l'".tgatanok 

Tshokotenok 

Tshakatenok 

Tshonikotak 
Katshat-ko- 
I  [tako 

Koldakoo 


Timnce 

Ettegas 

Min 

En 

Ginnc 

Huissiga 

Issigc 

Begun 

Bcghassx       ■ 

Sarsin 

.\k  ;  ah  ;  eh. 

Soch 


Kascliiutsh     I 

K'liogdasitch 

K'tshcem- 

[gutsh 

Kahalkan 

Kwatsh(|ui- 
[kotsh 


Ookladai 


Kasiclitsliitsh 


K'aiiti>-,ili 
Kai-ci'-'ni 


Ingiicrghodak  Kowisitsh 
I   iKocpiasitsh 


Choorli 


Bir 

Ikke 

Ews 

Tirt 

Bes 

Alta 

Setti 

Ogos 

Tagos 

On 
Surbcy 

Assibcn 

Issicm 

.Suir 

Inkullx 

Toy 

Oomkella  (to 

[sleep,  mi) 

Ittai  J  (speak, 

[kap>ir) 

Unar,  kocr 


Tur 
Bar 


The  Cluikchce  vocabulary,  due  to  the  kindness  of  fJeorge  Gibbs,  Esq.,  was  col- 
lected on  the  Ringgold  and  Rodgers'  I';x])loring  E.\i)cdition  by  Dr.  William  Stiniiismi, 
Director  of  the  Chicago  .Academy  of  Sciences,  ami  has  not  hitherto  been  piiblislieil. 
Those  words  in  italics  are  from  a  vocabulary  kindly  obtained  by  I'rof  Asaph  Hall  of 
the  U.  S.  Eclipse  Expedition  in  1869,  at  Plover  Bay.  The  remainder  are  by  ."^aiir 
from  Billings's  Expedition,  a  rare  and  inaccessible  work.  I  have  introduced  ilium 
here  for  the  convenience  of  the  philologist  who  may  wish  to  compire  the  languages 
of  Eastern  Siberia  with  those  of  Western  .\merica  ;  and  also  for  the  bcnefu  el  the 
American  trai'.crs  who  may  visit  the  coasts  of  Northern  Kamchatka,  the  Ochmsk 
Sea,  and  the  Chukchee  peninsula. 


Eh 


WESTERN   ESQUIMAUX   DIALECTS. 


555 


WORDS  TOWARD  VOCABULARIES   OF   THE   WESTERN 
ESQUIMAUX   DIALECTS. 


littgliih. 


Arm 

;Accouche- 
I  [ment 

Arrow 
Anns 

Axe 

Autumn 
'Aurora 
Ashes 
.Vnutlier 

[(other) 
Alive 

Afraid 

All 

lirothcr 

Bear 

Heaver 
'i!y  and  by 

iioat  (skin) 
ISoots   (decr- 

I  [skin) 

j  Beluga 
Buy  (to) 

lirin;;  (to) 
Buiics 

Illdod 

l!:ul 

Boy 

Hoard 
liullct 

Bcllv 
lilack 


Bag 
lie  still 


Break  (to) 


Back  (t1ie) 
Backbone 


Ekigmut- 
Takhlik 


Khot 
Tah'kuh 

Kolkab'uk 

(JoksiVk 

Igi')glii-uk 

Aghu'k 

Ecminah 

Tukunerikh- 
[tuk 


Kcemi 

King'ukshuk 

Takokuk 

Maluktok 
Atdta 

On'g'iuk 
Kamu'iik 

Stu'-uk 
Kecpu'chu- 
(wuk 
Tizhu 
Xunokut 

Owk 

Asseetuk 

Tanig(')\viluk 

0('ingut 
Koh 

Oksu'k 
Tu'ng'filcra 

Stamazfi'tika 
Konilorino 


Chikumuk 


P'kokc 
Inarutnuik 


Unalig'mut. 


rdlect 


Etuk 


Ali'nga 
Kissim'mi 

0(')nuguli 

Tokrtgidi 

Paliiktuk 
Atako 

Un'g'iriik 
Ki'imguk 

'T(')kuk 


Ti'ziui 
Nunow- 

[rungiik 
Owk 
Asseetuk 
lUegah 


AWihrnut. 

Taluk 
Iringh'uruk 

jKagahrit 
Ituk 

Kol'habuk 


Kavidgemiit'.,  ChugAchig-     KiMg- 
"  iiiut.  tniit. 


Teleghuh    i Yagatsutik 


Kagahrit      H'hut 
Etuk 


Kolhabuk 


Ikhuk 
(Angry,  Ik- 
[nitsuk) 
Kalkanak 


Kikliuyet 


I 


Asak 


Irigee 
Kissim'mi 

Arpeeugh- 
Luh 
O'kiluk 

Pobiktuk 
Atdta 

Oiimiak 
Kdmuk 

I Seesuuk 
|T(')\vksik 

IKizu 
iS(')\vncrit 

Owk 

lAshu'ruk 
,lllig.at 

J0<)meet 
Kagahrfik 


iTaksibuk 


iNaweektuk 


Alinokh      ] 
Kissim'mi  i 


( )onfievak 
Alantak 


Ung'(nvrug-    Annak 

[huh 
O'kluk         Laklak       Oonuvali- 

|akh 
I'aluklituk   "Stneek       Kinvuli 


N'unako 

Oomiak 
Kamuk 

Seetuuk 


Ki'zu 
Sownerit 

Owk 

Aseeuruk 

lllcegat 

Oomit 
Kahgdhruk 


( Hay,  \a- 

[naenak) 

I Anyak 

Natasiak-  Kamiksak 
I          [iiak  ? 
' Ootvak 

Kepuziyfi 

I Tijskiu 

(Hank, 

ITs'na) 
Owk  iKavfikak 

Ichakhliuk 

T'angialu- 

I  [vak 

lOonik 

(Hravc, 

I       riT'K-ik) 

'Aksiak 

'Tapnikh-    (Iklow, 

[tuk   [At'thimi) 


Narweetuk 


Naru'tiguh 


(lU'lnru, 
!  [C'hfuiimt- 
(pih) 
(Hehind, 

(Kanfd- 
i     Ikliuuiu) 


m 


556 


APPENDIX. 


English. 

liult 

Hotly  (the) 

lilaii'kct 

lied 

How 

Heads 


Hum  (to) 
Herrics 

Carcajou 


Cache 
Contog 
Cry  (to) 


Ekdgmat.     lUnaligimrd.'  MAhlemM.  |  KaviAgmut.^  ^''"mfj"^'  i   '^"',tl-"r^'   ! 

Topsih        j   

Oolit  :   


"    (small) 
Hoil  (to) 

Hirch  (wood     

I  or  Ixirk)! 
Hrccchcs        Kfikhlik 
Hird 
Hrcasts 
Hark  (of  tree 


Kappazhu'-      Topsih 

|tika 

Kotigiinka       '    

Oolik  Oolict 

Atlckhka         

Uokelubuk   j   IVshgik'- 

I  [shih 
Shung(')w-  ,Chim(')wrik 
|rik 
Kawilsak 


Chu'ng'i 
Kokhlatuk 


Ogigityuk 


Chung'()w-     (Hluc, 


|riik 


tVctok) 
Tikhlit 
C'lmazu     I 
l.;cnuk       I 


K;ikolik        Kiikhlik 

Tiiig'myuk  'ring'myuk    Ting'myuk  (Jonushak  Tinmyiil 


Mecluk 


Kagit 


Ahmeelu- 
[ruk 

Akpik 

Kuftsik 


Nutiktuk 
Kahsvik 


Akpik 
Kahwik 


Mfim'teguk  Shckhi'liuk  Mu'pteguk 

I 


(Clouds, 


NukhtkiUit 


Naugat 
Clouds, 


Katitak 
Kuziame 


Puhutuk       ITihutuk 

I  I 

Kiurung'er  Kifirfing'cr 


Come  (imp.)!    Tiyuk 

Coming         '    Ki'-yuk 

Come  in 


Cut  (to) 

Cap 

Chin 

Caps  (gun) 


Comb 

Chain(small) 
Chief 

Cold 
Chew  (to) 


Nat'cluik 


Xrdiyawutut 


\as(''ta 
Tamilu 


On'g'iuk       lAmaylik 

!   ,  I  ,  .     , 

Xingluktuk    Kwikhtiina 
iTamaluk 


Paughter 
Dog 


Ikhim'ik 
Ki'tmuk 


Kaghi 
Kiaruk 

Encsehtuk 

Keept'cgali 
Nashuk 


Kabrdon 


Illyahutik 


^Titi 


Tigut 


Nashuk 


Kali'murik 
Omavlik      'Oniavlik 


[Amcdl'-i    [Taliguk) 
Kok) 

(Cojijier,     '(Copi)cr, 
[Ranugak)     |Kanfiklii 
(Calm, 

I  Kfuiik) 
(Current, 
LChagvak) 
Tikina 
(Coal, 
I  Kumaviii 
(Cup, 

IWalvfiki 
Pilvakl'iu 
Nachak 
(Cousin, 

['rrnik.ii 

(Castor, 

[Alvfiki- 

takliki 

(Crane, 

[Kinatfilii 


Allapah 


Punceghuh  Punceghuh 


Allapah 


Angaizu- 

[gok 
Apakhtok 


Puneeghuh  Panja 


jKimukhter  Kiyukmuk   Kiyiu;muk    Pee-ukhta 


Deer  (rein-)   Tu'ntnk 
Day  Okhluk 

Day  (ycster-)ilkpukzuk 

Day  (to-)      lOobluk 


Tu'ntrd<        Trrnti'dv       Tri'ntfdv 
Oonakfuii    Ooblami       Oohlami      ' 
Ukw()wuk    Ikhpiikhe-    Ikhpi'ikhe-  i 
I             jrnk  [ruk 

Oghanukh- lOi'iblubuk    Ooblumee-  ] 
\\)wk !  [nil 


Kana-et 
Achnik 


(Clay, 

IMaga'vuk' 

Pignakiitiik 

(Cov.MrdIv 

jAlaiU.ik' 

Panaglia 
Annakluik- 
|k:,. 
Tu'ntu 
I'^eghnik 


WESTERiN   ESQUIMAUX   DIALECTS. 


557 


Kuskwig- 
mat. 


(Blue,         1 
IVctok) 
Tikhlit 
C'ninazu    | 
llixiuik       I 


k    'rinmvak 

.   'NvikhlkCuit 


jNangal 

(Cloiuls,  i 
ill'-;  I'raligCik) 
ok) 

;ak).    IKanukh) 
■(Calm, 

■  Kunik) 
(Current, 
[Cliagvak) 
'I'ikina 

is.um.ivu! 

(*'"!'.      , 

[NValvukl 

Pilvakhu 

Na'cliak 

(Cousin, 

['runkai 

(Castor, 

[Alvuki- 

takhkl 

(Crane, 

■Rinatulii 


:c:iav. 


[(rok'lM 

lok   il'igu 


:uia  V 


uk- 


;ikiuok 


!(Cov.Mr 


(llv 


_  Akuit.ik 

lPauai;li;i 
.iklink- 

lk;.> 
iTu'ntu 
Eeglinik 


Lhta  ;A"ii 


Eii/^lish. 


Dav  (next) 

|l)tcrlat 

jDuur 

I.)ance 


EkigmTit. 


U  Htilig'  iiiiit. 


An'mik 
Poclri'luit 


MAhlemut. 


•  -      .»       -.     Chtii'ii.  hitr- 
haviiigmul.  ^'J,-^   * 


Oonaka  Oohlu'kuk  Oobl.ikii 
ru'nnk  Kf'iwniik  Kc'iwnuk 
lalo  'Taluk  ITaluk 


I 


Drum  Chowyut 

Don't  know  Nutloka 

1(1), 


il'oclchruk 
I 

KilviT 

Kioine 


Lhowyu 
Nutloky 

Xcwat'i:lii-     Ogikhluk 


Drill 

'       l(cotton)]  (nuik 

I  Duck  Ooksa'ktuk 

;Dc.ul  I'lukfi'lcruk 

Drink  (to)     '\iiktuk 

Daikness       (Joni'ik 
D.uKc-  Kaglii 

[house 

Drunk 

"  Dead  "  

[drunk 

I)ay  before   |    

Ivesterdav, 


Muksu'k- 


[tuk 


Nu'khwah 


Eat  (to)  Tamaluk, 

[Nfi'guh 
Kye               [Eeklika          Ktklika 
Ears              iCheeudik       Shcetik 
Evel)rj\vs       Kumnkava-  '   


roeleliruk  i  I'oelehruk 
Kionee 


rokorik 


Kilvukuk 
Kiome 


Agikhluk 


mill. 


.(Deep, 

ITfdi 
'Ka/iaclii- 
|kfu 

(I  )on't  wani 
[Teeukli 
[naktu.i 


'Tinniik 
Tukrimak 
Meekha 

"Falkh 
Akuniea- 
Ival 


[and  lashes 
Enough 


jnuk 
rah'vviUuu'    Tahwatli 


Munvit 


Tukcuik 

Iinnuin'ikh- 

[tuk 

Dawktuk 

Kaguskee-  'Kaguskee- 

(me  |nie 

Euiiktuk     [I'aniktuk 

Keemik-      j    

[shi'ikluk! 
OuuaUigeni'   ' 


Nugeru'n-    Nugerfm'g-  I'etoghdl'-    Ntega 

Iger  [er,  [yfuia 

Isik  I'.creegah    ll''.engaliak     Wetatik 

.Shee'un       Seetiga        !Cluitik         (liu-utik 
Kabfdot       Kabuloot    |(I'!agle,         Kayaguii- 
i|Koiskalak)  [fit 

Tatneedli     Timunilli    :(East,  

lOonadl'-! 


Nu'nnh 
Clieekeet 

.^takali 
Kaniv'i'ik 
Kanuk 
Ookfik 


Manit 


Xfi'na 


jA'tahkah 
Ki'i\  ink 
K'nnk 
'ITinfik 
K'ne 


Mfinik 
Kshoah 


Arunvit 


Pcsfi'ktali   I   

Ching'iag-  ;    

(haruk 
Nfuieii         NTi'Muh 
Ch.   .iiik 


•atak) 


Katlagak 
N'u'nuii 


rrukukakh 

(Kar-rings, 

[Aklatit] 

'(Kagie,  ' 
I  N'iligovak 
,  Nfnii 
,1'agrilgaK 


.Arpugah     jAtataghuh   Attaga  Attn 

Kivi'iktuk     Kiyuktuk     Ka-ukligak  Kavvathak 
ik'iiik  ,1'knuk         IKnakhk       Knik 


(•-.ug 
End  (the) 

i'lvil  S|)irit 
Enieinte 

I'.arlh 
I'amine 

FailuT 

!'"()\  (red) 

File 

Fai  (deer) 

Flini-and- 

Isteelj  I         _  I    ,  I    _ 

liirget  (to)    I    Oowukhter  I'euktung-    Poynk- 

I  I  !  jer       'Itfinger 

I    ,()o\vukhtid<  I'ei'ikhtuk     Poyuktuk    i    

I''.etigi'inka      I'A'teegi'ui-  lltkuidva        Itugi'uika    ! i    

!      /  I       /   |ka  _  !  _  I  _    ! 

i.S'tamen        lEwaiigun-  |Iiui\vutghi  Inuwutgha  Shwoahi    'Swogat 
[ka  I  I  I 

TaliwiUun'    rlMtnali        ilnvektid'      Tinimu'lli    1    i'i'awatik 

,Nfd<ut  Ek.it'lewit    Uairhl      .k  Ekiith'liik    EgakhlCdi     Ikaiouk 

iKeenuk  Keenuk        K  eerivfik     iKeenyuk     I    


iKownuk 

I'kne 


iKiiwnuk 
I'kne 


Oghok 


Anignakh 


Fort;!.'  (I) 
Feet 

Fiiiyers 

Finished 

Fi.^ll 

Face 


it: 


i  11 


fi 


Ill  !; 


i  !    r 


m 


:  I  I 


558 


APPENDIX. 


EnglUh. 

Forefinger 
Second  do. 

Ekdgmiit. 

Uniilig'tniit. 

MAhlemiit. 

KiiviAgmfit. 

Chiigdchig- 
miit. 

Kuskwigmut. 

(151ack  fox, 

[Tunulgit) 
(Blue  fox, 
[Ikhnikhtu- 

1  ....I 

Tiihkok 
Ahk(ilinak 

Third  do. 

Finger 

[(little) 
Fawn  (rein- 
[deer) 
Far  off 

Foot  (one) 
Feather 

Vaksikh- 
[tuk 

Ekeclipak 
Ekit'hl'kuk 

Oonasik- 

|suk 
fishegeet 

Nokwiok 

Oonasee- 

[siuik 
Itigi 
Shu'luk 

Oonasik- 

[shuk 
As'higect 

(White  fox, 
[Oolcgik) 

(Fox  cub, 
[I'eyag.ik) 

( Fresh, 

[Xutdkapak) 

Iguk 
(Fish  net, 

Kf:;;ya) 
Niklikhtok 

Tagiakvak 

(Fish  traj), 
[Talpyahk- 
[iival)' 

(Fly,  a     - 
[Chuyuv.nt) 

Fi  ozen 

Fish 

[(salmon) 
Fish 

[(sm.ill) 

Fat  (very) 

Frightened 

Komloko- 
[wuk 

Takhiyuk- 
[puk 

Nutagut 

Ookilera 
Ali'ngu 

Takiyuk- 
[puk 

Takyukh- 
[puk 



Grouse 

[(white) 
Gloves 
Gun 

(;o(i) 

Gilt 

Good  by 

Good 
Go(jd 

[(very) 
Girl 

Give  (me) 

(]o  (away, 

[imp.) 
(jim  ninote 

Oki'iziguk 

A'zigak 

I'l'.ktuk 

Tawi'hueh 
'  si'ikhtuk 

Okanc'iki- 

[muk 
Tizhu- 
[wun'ganuk 
Ayee 

Arkazi'gi- 

[uk 
A'gzigite 
.Shukpun 
hikhtok 
Chikeeka 



Asikhtok 
Nakuiu- 

[rumuk 
I'uneeghuh 

Anee 

IlVgiit" 


Ting'mynk 

Mukecta 

Aregut- 

[.chiih 

Arkaziuk 

A'regat 
Shukpun 
Oloktuk 
Cheekee- 

[kha 
Owloktut 

Naku'ruk 
Areegah 

Agnishuk 

I'chulunga 

Annisok- 

(tuk 
Molu'ruk 
I'inikhserit 
Aychilunga 

ringniyuk 

Mukeetin 

Aregiit- 

[ghuh 

Arkaziuk 

Asigat 
Shupun 
Chaiu'iksuk 
Cheekce- 
[kha 

.Xaku'ruk 
Areegah 

Puneeghuh 

Anee 

I'iuikherit 
Aychilunga 

Tingmyuk 

Mukeeter 

Aregiitguh 

Keyak 
Ting'amet 

Mukt'n 

Eekhchika 
(Grandfather, 
[  ApnfigliOkl 
(G'lulniothcr, 

[Annfigliyui 
Knuigiiagkilk 

Nozciitchuk 

Yaguzhgu 

Ayagu 

,,  1 

Orass  (dry)  Wukut 

(rive    {\.Vi\         Poi'k'PP- 

Chan'git 

i 

[tumka 
Tin'g'um- 

[yuk 
Kun'g'iik 

Ikunka 

Grave 
[(burial 
1  place) 
Get  up  ! 

Hands 

Yahguchutik 

'Hare 


WESTERN    ESQUIMAUX    DIALECTS. 


559 


Kuskwigmut. 


Hlack  fox,    I 
I'runulnu) 
HUic  tox, 
llkhnikhtfi- 

White  fox, 

[Oolcgik) 
Fox  cub, 
'      ll'cyagak) 
(Fresh, 
[Nutakapak) 


Iguk  , 

( Fish  net,      1 

jKC-va) 

Niklikhtok    j 

rragiakvak     ' 

(Fish  trap, 
I'ralpyahk- 
[nyat) 

(Fly.  a 
[Chiiyuvat) 


Eekhchika 

(Gramll'atiier, 

lApm'igliui<) 

G'iKhiiother, 

[Annugiiyu) 

Knuigiiagliuk 


Nozctitcliuk 

Yagu/hgu 

Ayagu 

C'han'git 


Yahguchutik 


I.Hg.'ish.     I    Jikdgmiit 

iHare  


Unalig'  niut. 


ifMemUt. 
0(')kulik 


KaviAgmut. 


0.')kulik 


ChugAchig- 
mut. 


Kuskwigmut. 


Kiyu'kth- 

!  I  [iukj  I 

Hungry       Nugi-ukh-  ,(I  .iin)         iNug.ishuk-  Nu-iyih 

[(to  be)  [tung''     [Nuhgce  (ti'inga 

ikad  Naslikok     i.\usk('igwa   \aiik(')wa    iNeiikowah 

litre  Marni  Marni  |Mariii  iMarni 

I  1 

I 


Hot 

Hill  (a) 


Ing'rcct 


Hand  (one)  Du'mak 
!                   I        I  (palm) 
Hair  (long)  Nu'yiit 
Heavy         I    

J  lair  (short,  Mulkiit 

[or  fur) 
Hat,  or 
[head- 
[cover 
He 
jiammer 


Husband 
.House 

[^(native, 
'  ]  winter) 
Hcar(imp.) 

His 


I 


Oona 


On'g'un 
N'nuh 


Neechce- 

[wfi'nikin 
Emuluh 


Ilwik 

Cheekuk 


Ice 

Iron 

Indian  (an)  Attowch 

Island 


liile 
Intestines 

Jump  (to) 

Knife 

l(clasp) 
K'nces 

Know  (to) 
Know  (I) 

Know  (I 

I  do  not) 
Kvak 
l(i)idarka) 


Tikesti'ik 

Ksalcra 

Keetunka 


Chowic'hi- 
Imuk 


Nachunle- 
[reetuk 


Kutzung' 
[uk 


I'hec-it 
Kuhu'* 

Oona 
N'nuh' 


Kushfi'ng'- 
[uk 
Irgut 


A'/Jeg 


Kushu'ng- 
[uh 


A'zeegih 


Nu'shak       Nushak 
Okainy-        Okaniy- 
[duik  I'chuk 

Miksect 


(Hawk,  Nap- 

|tak) 

(II(jw  much  ? 

[KahitOgat) 

Nash-kwa  ■  

Ilonikho, 

(Khwalina 
Magakhtok  Kikliehatuk 

Hatch  or      (Heat, 

(opening,  [Kaltok) 

[Oolmvak 
Aicha    '       (Hill,  Ingak) 


Nusha 


Wunga 
Scko 

Kegikhtuk 


Mikseet 
Nahshu'n 


Oona 
Kaksutok 


T(ipek 


Wunga 

Seko 

Iknuguwit 
U'ngTileet 
Kikh'tuk 

Erihe-shuk- 
[tu'nga 


Matli'ikhter 


Pccknuk- 

[tok 
Sitg('iwa 


Secsgi'iw- 

[kah 

Netoka        Tushir'uga 
Tushirukh 


Nashown 
Oona 

In'nuh 


Wunga 
Seko 

Kikhtak 


(Jom 


T'na 


Ku-ih 

Chagiik 
Nakhtrdek 


I 


Nfivat 

High  Vukh- 
Itrdi 
Milkfit 

(Hatch  or 
I         [opening, 
i     [Ocigliuvik) 
Ikrini,'ra-una 
(Hail,  Kak- 

[hutat) 
Wecna 
Ina 


(Him,  Oo- 

I  [min) 

Oomnia 


Hwana, 

IHwihka 
Chiko 
Nilkiiagak 
(Inlet,  Ikakh) 
(It  is,  I'e- 
[tankhtok) 


Ezhigliyuk 


Sitgowa 
Nalu'kiga 


Snikha'hi-    Kamnkala    Snikha'hi-      

[tuk  I  [tuk 

Kyak  Kyak  jKyak  Kyak 


Kaiiyak 


|.  V 


■Mil 


m 


*  An  asterisk  (*)  imU/ates  a  possible  derivation  Iroin  the  Russian  or  some  other  language. 


i    I, 


560 


APPENDIX. 


English. 


EkdgmM. 


Kavak  (3 

'(holod) 
Knilc  Chiwik 

I  (sheath); 
Kutilc        :G'hun 


Kill  (I) 
Long  ago 
Laugh  (to) 


Trikuchcc- 
[okuk 


Unaug'miil- 


Chiwik 


Akwownw- 
[ghnc 


AfdA/emat. 


Biclarli- 

|mya 
Chowik 


'^'•-"^"•o'l^"^^'^- 


Kiitkviigmul. 


Chiwik 


Legs  Erukha        liru'khga 

Large  Ong'uk        On'g'uk 

Lie  (to)        Akloghtut    Iklu'ten 

Land  'NiTnuh        Nu'nneh 

Light  (not    Tankikh-        

[dark)  [tuk; 

Lake  jNanimuk    ]    

Like  (simi-  lyuka  iMuku'chi- 

|lar)  !  |nuik 

Like  (to)      Chang'w(')h'Iveenkuka 


Ikhpukhe 
Iruk-g'alc-l 
[iikncl 
Igiluk-        ifgiluk- 

[tu'ngal        [tu'nga 
Nee-u'gha    Xcc-ugha 


On'g'yruk 

Shugalu'- 

[rfitcn 
Nu'naeh 


Anuitna- 
Isiinuk 


Ong'ydu'- 

[ruk 
Shugalu'- 

[rutcn 
Nu'nuh 


Anu'itna 


(Kettle,  Can- 
(chavak) 
Nowgu-        ()()lvak  and 
[chak*      |Cliivitluik 

(Kamlayka, 

[Iniukhna- 
[tiklii 
(To  kill) 
[Chikali/.gyu 


(Low,  N'fikli- 
[kalnau.iki 

Xinliakhta 


(Lonely,  NTi- 
i         |naiiiluh) 
Anishkak    Ontouchpak 

'ikliuk 

N<')una        INoiina 
( Lightning,, Tankikh'ch- 
[Knukhji  [tiik 

Xannokh     Nanvik 


Lie  down     Emikhtuk 

l(to) 
Lips  Kankah 

Light  (not    Ookarmite- 
[hcavy)       [naratuk 
Lamp  (oil) 


Loon 
Mother 


Ahki'ik 


Man  (one)   VTit  (or) 

[Shuk 


XTinitikh 

Tu-elik 

Ah'kah- 

[ghuh 
Yut 


Mink 

Moon 
Mittens 

Mouth 

More 
Much 


Magmu'tic   Emugcnui'- 
I     [tukchuk 
Aghi-aluk    Ighiiluk 
Arektwik     Arctlii'h 


Kowmari- 

[tuk 
Nainiuk 


Ah'kee- 

[ghuh 
Inn'uk 

Tughiuk- 

|puk 
Tatkuk 
Artkutik 


jKahnuk      .Kon'ogha 


Chilce 


I 


Man  In'nyuet 

[(people) 

Mirror         j   

Morning     lOonma- 

jkum' 
Mine  Hwih'pi- 
I  [kuk 


T'selli 
(Jmathlnk- 
Ltuk 
'Yuet 


Suli 
Omaluktuk 

In'nuet 

Tagiiktu 


Ah'kce'uh 
Enuk 


Annch 

Nuglukhpi- 
luk 


Emagemu'- 
|tiikshuk' 
Fakuk  Ta.inkuk 

Arkatuk 


Katkuk 


Kanga 


srdi 

Omilanikh- 
|tuk: 
In'nuet         Nugulpcuk  Nilkalnyak 
[(2  men 


(Long,  Tat- 
[khlihi 
(Lightnini;, 

[King'vaki 

(L-osh,  Mail- 

[agnati 

(Lead,  Khov- 

|akak) 

(Little,  Ikiii- 

I  tilt  I 


Annih 

Yu'gut 

Amagniiitak 

Tang'uk 
(Mouse, 

[Ahwiln.i! 
Kanuk,(l'alii. 

[iif  riversi 
Chaii 
Amilikhtfik 


Tagii'ikh 


Wun'gukh 


Tangifiguk 

(Monlii,  Tan- 

I.H'aki 

(Mow  nuidi, 

[Kahilfigati 


WESTERN    ESQUIMAUX   DIALECTS. 


561 


Kuskwigmiit. 

(Kettle,  (Jan- 

Ichavak) 

Oolvak  anil   • 

[(.'liivicluik 

(Kamlayka, 

llimikhna- 

ItiUhi 

(To  kill) 

Chikali/.nNri 

(Low,  Yiikh- 
[kalnauak) 

Ninliakhta 

(Lonely,  NTi- 

[nanituli) 

'Ontouchpak 

Ikliuk 


Knglitk. 


Noi'ina 
rankikli'ch- 

liiik 
Nanvik 


(Long,  Tat- 

(khlihi 
(Lightning, 

[King'vaki 

(Losh,  Man- 

lagiKU' 

Lead,  Kl\nv- 

jakakl 

(Little,  Iklii- 

I  tut  I 


Annih 

Yii'giit 
Amagnuitak 

Tang'iik 
(Mouse, 

[Alnvilnat' 

ls.aniik,(ralii, 
[of  rivers) 
Chali 
Amilikhtfik 

k  Nfikalnyak 


Tangifiguk 

(Month,  Tail- 

l.u'aki 

(How  nuich. 

IKaliitus.:.T' 


Ekdgmut.     llHitlig' mul.  \  MAhlimtit.  I  KaviAgmUt. 


Meat  Ki'imniuk 

[(flesh) 
Marmot       Cheekeet 

{{S.Parryi) 

M()S(|iiit(>  Muhko-kih' 
Make  (to)  Choweeze- 
[rukhli 

Ogh'wo 


Checkik 


Moss 

Mc 

N'amc  (a) 
Xose 

New 

Night 

No 

Nails  (fin- 
|ger&  toe) 
Never 

[mind 
None 
Neck 

Near 

1  Needle 
Now 

Otter 

I       [(river) 

Other 

I 

Oil 

Only 

Open 

Old 

(-)kl  man 
Old  woman 


[Parki 
irorciipine 

i 

Pipe 
Powder 
j       Kgun-) 
;  Powder 
'  [flask 

Present  (a 

Pain 

I'addle 


Qtiick 


Kan'iik 

NTitdkiik 
Oonuk 

Feetuk 
Stukuh 


Nung'u'tnk 
Wce-akiik 

Ooguksi- 

[khtuk 
Min^'kung' 
Hwat'ow 

Chi'nnikuk 

Astlaruk 


Tow'kwun 
Eegeerasha 

Ukiithluk 


Atku'k 


Kweenyuk 
Toeyiikh- 

[kuk 
Poeyokh- 

[kugwik 
Checkee- 

[kha 
Oknikhtuk 

Ung'-wah-  ' 
[wung': 

Padi'iga- 

[muk 


Chikarik     |Clieekeck 



Choweetuk  Choweetuk 


At'kah 

King'cjw'-     Kin'g'uk  King'i'igha 

[cha  i 

Nutak  Nutak  Nutak 

Uoniikh'-    :Oonuk'tuk  lOonfik'trik 

[tuk'  I 

Peetuk        J'eechuk  Peeluk 


Shanara-      Shanara- 

[tuk  [ttik 


Minku'n'     !   

I'l'ikniimimi  Pukmummi  Peeseekak 
j  I 

Pumi-ukh-  'Pumiukh- 

[tiikl  [tuk 

Atla,  I'par 'Atlaor        lAtla 

Ooksook      Odhoruk       Ookhcruk 
Keemi         I'vissimmi     Kissimmi 


Ootukok 

L'ng'icluik   I'ng'icluik 

Ukukhhak    Ahkok'tuk 


Ateguk       'Artt'gi         'Artegi 

|Elank(')-       'Elanko- 

I  [chikj  [chik 

Kweenyuk  Kunyuk      .Kunyuk 
jAchara        '   

Aradnk-      :    

I     [sliawol*! 
Chcekee-     Cliikeeka    iChikeeka 

[kha'  i 

Arrah  lArrah  Arrah 


Kolummuk  Koli'immuk  Kolummuk 


ChugAikig- 

mat. 
Kumik 

Kinga 

( )onuk- 

[hakh 

(North, 
(Niaghtok) 


Kyukhixik- 
(hakak 



Kuskwigmkt. 

Ahnlkhuk 
Kalganakh- 

[tnii 

Mikuphuk 
( l'"ussil  Mam- 
|niiilh,  (ha- 
[gi'mik) 
Kumagitit 
Kwinuk 

. 

Oonuk 

C'hasliiliik 
(Net,  Kugy- 
|ah) 
(Not  so, 

[Ikliutik) 
Khwatuya 
(Narrow, 
[Igilkinuk) 

Minknk 

(_)owignilnuk 

Ignik 

(Owl,  Igcha- 
[khtugali) 

Oochinukh 
Aganukhliu- 
[vak 

Atkuk 

(Poplar,  Au- 
lg"l) 

(Pike,  Iniakh- 
(ping'at) 

Akhnakhtu- 
[ah 

iif^ 


i ' 


!» 


J,. 
1 1  \ 

Mi 


n 


36 


mil  ' 


i  i, 


562 


APPENDIX. 


EHgluh.     I   EkigmUt.     Unalig'mM.     MAhUmM. 


Rabb"i         Kuyukth-    MukiX{;h-     lOokala^t 


Ktividgmlit. 


Ookalavt- 


Ch„g.Ukig-  \  K,„kwig„,Qt. 


met. 


Rain 


[Ink  [wuk  jsiuk  |siuk 

Ibizlu'ikli-   ilgcsiklituk  Sculfi'Ktuk   Igwani'ik-     Kitichtouk  Kitok  ^ 


River 

Rope  (or     Tapkuk 
[rawhide 
|iinc) 
Rint;  (a) 
Run  (to) 


[tuk 


Rock 
Red 

Raven 


Sister 
Son 

Sable 


Kwcek 
Tii|)kok 


Yccmukli    Clicen-muk 
Kahwikh- 

[kukla 
Tulfi'kagiik 


Anligu't- 

(kiiii 
Ig-n^-akuk 


Kagii'-ish 
I  (Am.)  [uk 

Sun  (tiic)     Ukokhtuh 


Star 


Aghi-at 


Seal  (large) ^   

Seal  (small)' 

Sled  (dog-)  Kamuk 

! 
Snowshoes  Tun'g'yuk 

Ship 


Snow 

Sleep 
Sew  (to) 
Salutation 

Sell 

Smoke 

Sea 

Small 

Summer 

Sit 

Steal 

Sing 


Un'yuk 


Chamml 


Kuk 
Uklc'-nok 


Oyagok 


Kuk 
Nt-uk 


[tul: 


Ku'lun 
Akparo'k- 
Ituk 


Ku-ik 


[t'liliatuk 
Kwak  I 

Xukehakluk 


(Rub,  to,  Mi- 
[chak) 


Vahmakh 
Kawikhtuk  Kivagok 


Kanneshet 


At-luk'hk-    Ahkct'a-       Ahkowru- 
Iguh  |gbuh|  Ighuh 

Kutun'ru-     Kectun-      |Erin'ugluih 
[ghuhl       [r(')Wgri- 
[ghuhi 
Kuft'chik-  'Kavea't'-     Kahvit'- 

Ichuk!        [cheiik        Ichu-uk 
Mut'chuk    ,S'    " 

|yuk| 
Aghzut        Ooblu'ge-    Ooblu'giukjMittak 

[uk 
Muklok       piuklok        Muklok 
Nlvuk  Ixiksuk         Xitsuk 

Kumowt      Oonayut      Oonayut 


Kolkaguk 
Agnawik 


Mukhta-      Ig-ny-al- 
[chuli: 


Matchak 


Tun'g'liik 

Ung'izukh- 
|puk 
Slakhlik'- 

^  [tuk 
(to)  Kow- 

[ukhtiinga 
Minki 

Chammf 
Akeechuk 


Tugeluk       Pusu'gc-uk 

Oomiak-      Oomidk- 

[puk  [puk 

Uphun        iKaniktuk 


Shfnik 

Keeliukh- 

[tunga 
Chammi 


Shi'nik 
Keelii'ik- 


Kakhcliich- 

[uak 
Akhtah 

Mittit 

Makliokh 
Isliugwak 
Ikamchak 


(Sky, 
[Aniigliuk) 

(Storm,    viuV 

ItJOW.'l) 

(Smell,  (   , 
(Naghacliuk) 
Annyu,        iKanukshak 

[Katagak 
Innakht'un    


(Swan,  Oo- 
[tunga    (kukhpik) 
Chammi      (South, 

[Kanagag- 
[tok) 


Keepuk-      Akeechuk  'Akeechuk    Akeechuk 
j    [huktung' 

iAi)'zik  f)|)suk         lls'suk  ;Is'suk 

Immukhpik  Ti'igasuk      Togavuk     Ttigaysuk   llmmokh 
Meekuk       M'ikuk         Mikidu'ruk  M:ksur('>w- jMikong'- 
I  [ruk'       [gashak 

Ked-ukh-    iOopine-       Oopane- 

[tuk     [rokhpuk      |r(')klituk 


Kee-uk 


Aku'm 

Tigalikh- 

,      [' 
Ewahgu 


[tuk 


Akomi        'Akaweeten  Akaweeten 

i 
Tigalikh-     Iktigalik      Iktigalik 


[tuk 


Aht6k 


lAhtu'n 


Minka 


Kecpushnu- 
[vak 
Punkh 
Iinakhpuk 
Ikhushfit 

(Swan,  Kug- 
lyfik) 

(Sand,  Kam':- 
Ivak) 


(Shout,  to, 
[Wikhi 


MILM- 


(l< 


WESTERN    ESQUIMAUX   DIALECTS. 


563 


uskiviigmiit. 


.itok  & 

IC'liliatuk 
Lwak 
{ukchakU'ik 


Kill),  to,  Mi' 


Ichak) 


vivagok 
Ivolkaguk 

Agnawik 
Ig-ny-ar- 


Kakhcliich 

[uak 
Akhtah 

Mittit 

Makllokh 
Isliugwak 
Ikamchak      ! 

1( Storm,    vmV 

I  trow.'') 

(Smell,  I  , 
JINaghachrik) 
I  KamikshaU 


Minka 


Kccpushnu- 

[vak 
Tunkh 

Imakhpuk     , 
Ikhushut 

(Swan,  KuR- 
lyiik) 

(Sand,  Kagu- 
Ivak) 


Shout,  to, 
IWikhpuS-i- 
kiinl 


English. 


Ekdgmlil.     UiKi/ig'mBt. 


Skin 

Smoke  (t( 
Ihacco,  to) 
Split  (a) 
SLJIisii 
>ilO()t  (to) 

Spring 
Straight 
Sec  (to) 

Slow 

Speak 
ISkin  l)oat 
I       I  (open) 
iS])cctaclcs 
j       I  (snow) 

Socks 

Scissors 

Small 
I  (very) 

Strong 
I  Stand 

Strike 

I 

Sorrv 
Steel  (& 

[Hint) 
Shot, 
[(small) 

Soup 
Stick  (a) 
Shaman 


Then 

That 
Take  off 

Toes 

There 

Teeth 
Tail 

Track 

Tree 

i 

Throat 

i  Thumb 


M'tu'kukh- 
llih 


MiihItmM. 


\K.,.,.ig.,,    ^'•"^•f^- 


Ah'niuk 
Towgah.v 

lliinga 
Kopcruk 


k 


Oopenukh-  Upahna- 
.    |kuk;  [kuk 

NakhhVti-  \   

|mut 
Tamuklia-    Keni'irtega 

jkiih 
Chugf'if-       Shukich'uk 

Tkenuk 
Apt'kah      iOkoktuk 


aupe-ga 


Ongiuk 


Kolcruk 


T'huk 
Nanukhtun 

Tlngilu'- 

[ghuk 
Kfinu'kuk 
Kinect 

Ting'am- 

lyiik/.huti- 

[kat 

Yu'khukuk 

(Jkrtghwuk 


Uoiniak 


Naluruk 

Kcniangah 

Chukich'uk 

Ok<')ktuk 
Oomiak 

lugak 

Atulok 
Shalishik 
Mikiru- 
Irummuk 


Ilu'dinka 

Naput 
Kun'geluk 


Ungatku' 
[otuk 

iPik'pun 


Im'na 

Mctomikh-  Itomc- 

(layunga         [irin'^a 
Ewahgun-    Infiwutgha 

[ka 
Tuhmahni  Tuhmarni 

Ki-u'tik        KeegO 
I'amnicgu-a  Puiu'kok 


Yunglitok 
Shupcga 


Towtuk 


Oumiak 


(Sky, 


IKhl'a 


Kuii-ltHlgMlU, 


Tu'mi 


Tfi'mi 
Oakpik 


We-ahkote 
Ahzoon 


Pik'pun 

Im'na 
M  uti'iw- 

[lunga 
inuwutgha 

Tuhmarni 


Kaglageh 

(Thunder, 
[Katlkhek) 


Kalkhtik 
Anyak 

(Shij),  Shu- 
I  l"ak) 

Kiplia-unik 
.(Short,  Nan- 
I  lilnuk) 

'(Sweet,  Nik- 
;  [neekuk) 
!(Sour,  Agi- 

(nak) 
'(She,  t)ona) 
(Send,  to, 

jAtakh) 


Honti  ? 


Oakpik        Nigoga'k- 


Tungalkh  & 
[Analkhtuk 


Oonakhwina 
I-gazhgiu 


Yani,  Oong'- 
[nani 
Iluyutik 
('I'liat  wav, 

[Yavit) 
(This  wav, 

jOokavit) 
Nikigwakh- 

[tut 
(True,  Pach- 
[ikhpiak) 


111 


»        1 


4'^ 


t   Literally,  "to  shoot  geese." 


1 11 


irif 


lil 


:'  iii' 


564 


APPENDIX, 


English 

Tube  (of 
[any  kind) 
Tongue 
Tell" 
Tippet 

Thread 

Tliiink  you 

Tobacco 

Tobacco 

[bag 
Tired 


Village 

Valley 

Vein 


Wife 

Woman 

Wolf 

Water 

Wood 

Walrus 
Whale 
Wankhne 
Work 

Walk 

Where 
Why 
When 
Winter 

We 

Wind 

Weather 
Whiskers 
Wolverine 
Warm 


DkigmTit.     l/Hiilig'  miit. 


Oolu'ka 


Spcsecba 

Tag'hwuk 

Stamasdu- 


iliihlcmut. 


Oowa 


Shupelu 
Okok 


KaviAgmut.  I  ^'"*S<^S''iS-  j  Kusktvigmut. 


Ooiiwuk 


Oolwa 


Ikn 
lokh- 


Oovolig'he- 
Irukl 


Kani'ikhtuk  Kani'ikhtuk 

Koniashi-    '\   

[ruk 


Koydna 
Tahwakh 


Muganc 
|luktuk 

Nu'nut 
K  'veef^a 
Ewiihluk 


Nub'khuh  Nuliayka  >fulecka 
Okh'anak  Ogh'anut  (ikanok 
Kigulu'nuk  Ku'lunuk     Am'aiiguk 


Muk  Muk  (or 

[Tanuk) 
Kubu'chuk  Ookuk 


(none) 


I-eekhluk 

iXahkhoh 
^Chccnt 

(jioks'ri'k  ' 


Onakluk 
tu 


[tuk; 


[Ooknuk 


Ali'zubuk 
(none) 
Ek(')tle\vit 
Tiguh'ikh- 
[tuk 


Now'khwa 
Sheen 
A'kawu 
jOoksiVkh- 
[tuk 

A'nowah 

Sclami 

U'ng'eet 

K<)pshik 


Want  (I)     Pe-uk'htuk' 

Want  I   j 

[water  (I)  , 

Watched     !    I 

(I) 

Whiskey iTah'nuk 

[(lit.  water) 
White 


Who 


TIakhokoli '    

iKeenuh       iKcenuh 


Im'mik 

Ki'ruk 

Oogeruk 
Ah'gahwah 
Kk()thlc\vik 
Chowctuk 

Kagalu'k- 

[tuk 
Ndhnii 
Shuklu'ten 
Maniaghu 
Ookc-u'kh- 
[tuk 
Wurgut 
A'nowah 


On'mcet 
Kopfwik 
Onoktuk 


Koyana 
Tabakh 


Nulcega 
(.ii'g'nut 
A'n.aghiik 

Ini'muk 

Ki'izuk 

Oogerfik 
Ah'gahwak 
Kkothlcwik 
Chowetuk 

Pesukhtuk 

Nahini 
Sfiklu'tcn 
Mamaghu 
Ooke-u'kh- 
[tuk 
Wurgut 
A'nowa 


Oi'iiucet 
Ki)]>fwik 
( )n6ktuk 


(Takc.Tkhu) 
Siwoghat  ? 


(Thick,  Oo-  ! 
[kugalgyuh)' 
('I'hin,  Knni- 

I  [gilnagak) 
'(They,  Oo- 

I  [nut) 
(Their,  I  licit- 

!  [»ul<); 

Plifishga-     (Thunder,      j 
-  livaHk); 

(Took,  j 

I   [Tkhwahka)i 


Nuliga 
A'ganak       A'gnak 

Kaykhli-     I    ' 

[nak 
Mik  (or)       Mik 

[Mokh 
(West,  Oo-  (Willow, 
[agagtok)        [Chagatit) 

Azvik 

Akhwik 


Iokto-ai)in 
Ininiuru'n-  Immuru'n- 

[S'l  fg'i 

Towtukuh 


Tah'nuk 
Keenuli 


Tah'nuk 
Keenuh 


(Walrus  skin, 
[Aniakhkakl 


Xani 
Chahkwa 

(Woollen, 
[Tunuikhili) 

Anfika 


Kavchak 


Magarakh-  i 
jtok: 


iPecrikluriiKi 


(Weep,  to, 

[(•.,uul! 
(Well,  ^■u- 
1      [guntrivalij 
Katakhtu     Ongolk,ik 

,    i(Wlu)se, 

I  [  K  'will 


KuskvSgmut. 


(Take.Tkhu) 

iSiwoghat  ? 

'(Thick,' Oo-  i 
I    Ikugalgyuli) 
(Thin,  Kinii- 
Igilnagak) 
(They,  Oo- 

[nut). 
(Their,  lilcit- 
[nuk) 
(Thunder, 

|Kalik)| 
(Took, 
[Tkhwahka)l 


Nuliga 
A'gnak 


Mik  1 

h 

)-  (Willow, 
l)        (Chagatit) 

Azvik 

Aklnvik 

(Walrus  skin. 
fAmakbkak) 


Nani 
Chahkwa 

(Wooil'cn,  *  '• 
[Tunulkhih) 

Anfika  i 


)k 


Kavchak 
Pecukhtriha 


(Weep,  tc-), 
I  [k.im'i! 

'(WeU.  Vu- 
I      Igiintriyah) 
Oogolkak 
[(Whose, 
I         [K'y;"lii 


WESTERN  ESQUIMAUX    DIALECTS. 


565 


English. 


Ekismut.     U,.alig>,„ut.\  Mahlcnut.   '.KavulgmM. 


u'.''^'  J;^!>"''^''"h  'Chunuik      Chuniuk     IChummuk 

\\  inc  ow      1 1  ahruk  Issukhtok      ."  ""'"'^ 

('otlge),  i  I       

\^'"fL"'',        I   ^Ete-aroke 

(deep) 
Wiiat  do  { 
I  lyou  call  it! 

'Vcar  (last)  Tow'unga   'Utluh'unee'lpdrni 


Chiigclchig- 
iniit. 


Kuskm6g>>tut. 


Vcar  (next)' 
Vfikali         I 


Voii  (thou)  Ikhl'wit 
Yes  jllw(')kah 

Voung         j   

I  woman ; 

Voung         j    

[inanj 
Voung        jNugachli- 

|pc-uk 
Vcar  lOoksu'k- 

I  (l'i'l< 


Xukut 

Ik'hlepit 
Wah 


Iparga 


Iparni 


Ikolu'i 


Iparga 
;-     .Ikolure- 
|wik  [wik 

rilewit         I'llepit 


Wah 

Okanakne- 
[likseok 
Eniiknu- 
Igatpekak 


Wah 


Tlcpit 


Chaitun  \ 

(White  fish.    I 
iKaluikhtnt) 
(Walrus  tusks' 
rruliuk) 
Chastun-         \ 
tpiakh-tkhul 
I 
(Vour,  I 

fl-'pitiuk)! 
Xihit 


''-pit  j 

{\o\\  pi. 

(l-'pinfik) 


Chuleyegni  OoLsifikh-      i 
i  Itumakl 


H 


'  Ei 


jf 


II 


I:   If 


'      \%\ 


■'X^JWl". 


566 


APPENDIX. 


WORDS  TOWARD  VOCABULARIES  OF  THE  TINNEH  TRIBES. 


M 


n 


English. 


Arrow 
Axe 
Awl  {also 

[  Wooclpeck 
Ashes 
Autumn 
Aurora 

Alive 

All 

Alder 

Another 

Arm 

Anus 

Afraid 

Angry 
Above 


Buttocks 
Boy 

Brother,  elder 
Brother, 

[younger 
Beard 
Body 
Belly 
Beaver 
Birch  (and 

[Ijircli  hark) 
Black 
Bad 
Boots 
Buying 
I'.cads  (black) 
Bring  {also 

[negative) 
Blankets 
l!y  and  by 
Bow 
Be  quiet 
Back 
I'ackbone 
Ihown  bcaro'^ 
Brown  bear9( 
l]lack  bear 
Breasts 
i  I5reak 

Bullets 
I  Belt 
il'rown 


Nftldto 
In'galik. 


Uluikuk 
In'galik. 


'I'anand 
In'galik. 


Unakhatana .  \  Tendn  Kutchin. ' 


L 


K'oh  iK'oh  iK'oh 

Muk'le-klala  Mukle'kklala  Mk'le-klala 
Tikelklala 
er) 


Khklatz 

Santakha 

Vo-iki)khte- 

[tan 
To-ikhklala 
Etutsi'm 
Kokhtle' 
R'tenni 
Tenak(')hna 
Tenakayet 
Nerukiit 


Notokhiui 


Tenatlut 
KeelycJza 

Su'gha 

Tenat(')gha 

Tenazik 

Tenam'it 

No-yi'ih 

K'leh 


Ilklatz 
Santuh 


Tod'kl()hn 
JTahklij'n'ih 
I  Kokhtle' 
iK'yu'yah 
|Tenaki')hna 

Tenakahyet 


Tenatlut 
Sakhi 

Su'gha 

Tenatogha 

Tenazik 

Tenami't 

Noyiih 

K'leh 


Tatle'kLitz  Tatle'kK'ih 

T'satkliika  Stalagha 

Kakcnti'ik  .Kakaytuk 

( )onkat  Owudukhat 


Scewc'iya 
N'tah 

Tsudah 
Klat 
Klikhtun 
Ta-lck 

Tenanitle'nah 
KkUuuh 


Ilklatz 
Santakha 


Tutklu'Kem 

■Katena 
Tenakohna 

iNelukiit 


Seewoya 
N'tah 

Tsu'dah 
Klat 

Klikhtun 
Tahlek 


Klahwurah 


Tenatsu'-ah 
Tnkadaki'it 


Vuki-('iza 

Sughuh 

Sihutlana 

Tenatogha 
Tenazuk 

Noyuh 
Kekh 

Tatsunzaga 
Tsohutklaka 

Oonkhat 
Tenanitlezih 


Tsutah 

Klat 

Klikhtun 

Talek 

Tenanunah 


K'oh 
Klatkleh 


Kowo'latziih 
Klasantah 
Yo-ikokhte- 
[tan 

Etntsun 
Kokhtl' 
K'tcnni 
Sukoh'na 
Sukayet 
Mukyahunal- 
[h(')hn 

-Vo'tuk'hun 


Suhklut 

Kcc-os 

Su'ghuh 


S'di'igho 

Sitzik' 

Scmi't 

Kakuh 

K'ekh 

Kohtle'zuh 
F'sohklaka 
Kakcnti'ik 
Kunkat 

N'tah 

Tsudah 

Klat 

Ktil'kas 

Talek 

Stodsunah 


Tenanitle'iu'ih  Sunun.ah 
Klahwuzuh      Kvfi'vah 


Yuyuki 
Khodat-ceo 


Kotk'h              Kotkiv             'Kutatluh 
K'theth           |Kutzndlnkuh  Thnlsth 
ITrukhckle'     '    


Tsyonuh 
Sus 

Sitsu-ah 
Takadolchut 

Kotlch 
K'theth 


TutclKinka 
Tiihchili 


H'kluhyah 

Ilohtsun 

Yukhoi 

Khu'nti 
Klohtsek 


Sukh'an 

Niltsiit 

Mahutzuh 


Chulkoyah 

Munokh'iya 

MichiUi 

Taughuh 
Suht-zutah 

T'suli 

Ahltoh 


Nazunki'iUay  : 
Ootaskhat      1 


Itsohutzoht 
Tuhtuh  ! 

Yuterokhtana 


Sih 
Sfis 


Xg'ketcliiti')- 

I  Willi; 

Kuhatluh 


',  liox 


ICap 


T«B 


VOCABULARIES   OF   THE   TINNEH   TRIBES. 


RIBES. 


tdn  Kutchin. 


tchonka 
hchili 


kluhyah 

ihtsuii 

ikhoi 

lu'nti 
lohtsek 


ikh'an 

iltsut 

ahiitzuh 


hulkoyah 

unokh'iya 

ichilli 

augluih 
:iht-zutah 


uh 
hlK'.h 


azrinkiillay 
otaskhat 


s('ihutzoht 
ulUuh  I 

utcrokhtaiia 


;'ketchitn- 

[Willi; 

.uhatU'ih 


567 


i 


English. 


Niitato 
In'galik. 


K'en 


Bone 
Boils  (it) 
Ijird  (small)    lYah'tuh 
Heads  (white)  N'tulla 
lilood  Lukohna 

Boat  (not        jMcdoyah 
[skin  boat)' 


Uin'kuk 

In'galik. 


lieaver 


[(spring). 


Bag 

lieetle 
Had  (very) 

Breeches 
Beads  (red) 
i Beads  (blue) 

:  Box 


Menoholnoi 
T'satklaka- 

[hulan 
Katsikh 

,  Kohnsitana 

Tenadaku'na 


ICap 

IConie  (here) 

iCrookcd 

Chief 

Cloud 

Cujipcr 

Cold 

Call 

Catch 

iChin 

;ciic\v 

'Child  (bov) 
Child  (girl) 

|Coals  (of  fire) 

Coward 

Comb 

C'row 

iChcek 

■Chest  (the) 

Cut 

Caps  (gun) 

Chain  (small) 

iCloth 

I 

Coining  in 
!  l(Iam) 

Canoe  (birch) 
Chinbone 


Dead 
Dance 
1  )ug 

Dog  (little) 
Don't  know 


Klakataluona 

O'hni 
Tidiilzikh 
Tyohn  (Russ. 
[der.) 
Sodah'uh 
Taslokuthi 
Atzu'  or  Azfi' 
Azut'le 
Ooneenluh 
Tenayahdiih 
Teck'ush 
T'saki  ) 

Sultayu'rah ) 

T'ass 
Atzik' 

X'teekah 


K'en 

Neelkoh 

Klahvudi'ih 

X'tulla 

Lukhoyna 


Tenadaku'na 

Klakataluoh- 

[na 

Oh'ni 

Tidulzcekh 
Fyiihn 


Tananti 
hi'galik. 


UnakhaUlna.     Tendn  Kutchin. 


K'en 


(skinb.)  Tsee- 
[k6kh 


Kokhlematz 

Kakoza 

Xilkiillay 

Mcdciya 


Nokhkutla 

Tazokuniyoza 
Oolodiktuh 


Katzikh  Katzikh 

Tenatluk6zeh|    

Tsu-i-uk         i    


Xilku'-i 
Tahneh 
Ki-ee,  Tlekh'- 
[k6h 
Tiheelecya 

Meeyuhhot- 

[kliyah 

llutsosklaka 

Sitkligeh 


.\zu' 


Teniyadiih 


Nukutsah' 


M'tayktuka 
Klahwhu'n 


Ohni 
Ty-ohu 
!Voh 
Atzu 


Tnniyahduh 

^'uki()za 
I'enahkolloh 

T'ass 

M'taytluka 
Kfilana 
Tenanakliih 
Tenatsle'nah 


Klakatalii- 

[ohna 
Ko-oh'ni 


Tyoh'n 


Atzu' 


Sihyadi'ih 

Keclvi'iza 
Xukothtr- 

[vi'iza 
Klikh      ' 


'I"utcli('ihn 

Sinatle' 

Stceatlcnah 


Ohtziyeh 

Vahkutr 
Kunikuh 


Athlc'chuht 
Suhdiyuh 

!Chulki'iya 
Meckit 


Kowo 

Dentrastokh 

Med()v' 


Kentudohyuh 
.Kakanraykta 
lKow<')  and 

|Melogutaha 
I  Dentrastokh 


Nfedfiyah         'Medoya 
I'enivatrnuh  Tcnatl'nuh 


Totsuh 


Tunt.ikhi 


Kowo 


Tohn'kloh 

Eevoh 

Kli'kh'k 

Klikhyoza 

Tustini 


Tl'atlcragh 
K'tc')khlay 
^Klikhk 
Klikhyii'iah 

'Aso 


Medi'iya  j  Ki-ee 

Sihvairnuh 


Tolkloh'n 
Krdik 
Klikhk 
Klikiiyciza 
Wiltsusinee- 
'  |ga 


TohnkU'ih 

Keekek 

Klikhk 

Klikhyoza 

'I'ohsuhu'h 


Solitet'iituk 
i'l'oliwcjhiutzoh 
IKlankoyah 

Shi'ihnoh 


i-l 


i  I- 


i  f 


568 


APPENDIX. 


English. 

Drink  (I 

[want  a) 
Duck 
Door 

Druni(native) 
Dressing 

[hides  (rub 
Dressing 

[hides  (sera 
Day 
Down 

Deer  (rein-) 
Daughter 

[(elder) 
Darkness 
Dish 

[(wooden) 
Drink  (imp.) 
Don't  want 


Nnidto 

In'galik. 


UlU'hik 
In'galik. 


Tukat 

Nintal 

Kotoneet'ho- 
[na 


bing) 

l'i"g) 

K'kit 

Kalitahwa 

Anoyah 

S'tenah 

K'takhr 
Klok 


Tilkat 


Die  (will)        Kladazutl<')h 
Driving  dogs  'Ilotlugatikhl' 
Daughter        jS'tlah 

(younger)  j 
Dogs  coming  Klukazutli 


Eye 
Kar 

Eat 
Evening 

Ess 
Elbow 
Enough 
Eyebrows 

Eyelid 
Ermine 
Earth 
Eating  fish 
ICat  (imp.) 
I'^at  meat 

Eyes  shut 
Enceinte 


Father 
Eo.\  (red) 
Fo.\  (white) 

Forget 

Fat 

Fawn 

Forehead 

Foot 

Face 

Far  off 

Flesh  (meat) 


Tenan(')ga 

Tenatseragh 

Kcehoh 

Kutsuntah 

Kakah'zuh 

Tenatzus 

T'sah'ih 


Khlatz 
Keeh()hn 


Tukalah 
Kohulkoi 


Menoltinah 

Kokoh 

Kuhk<>ya 

Tcnakadi'ih 

Tonaki'ih 

Tenanah 

Neeloht 

Nulrina 


Tilkat 

Nintala 
Dotkayt 

Shosh 
Nogatagus- 

[yesth 
K'tagastli'ik 

Klut 

An(')yah 
S'tenah 


Klok 


Tenanoga 
Tenatseragh 


Etutsun 


Il'klatz 

Kutasikhtr 

Keeh(')hn 


Tanani 
In'galik. 


Tu'ntunu 
Nintala 


H'lut 
Niitowoh 
Mitzikh 
Tuhyenuh 

Tle'k('ihoza 
Ivvikhklok 


Fohodusnee- 


Tukkala 
Tass'kerr'tak 
Kulzism  ih- 

jyah 
Menoltinah 
Kok(')h 
Anoyoza 
Tcnakadi'ih 
Tenakuh 
Tenanah 
Neehiht 


Tenanoga 

Kohohn 
Ilutzintuh 
Ivyo-za 
Fenatzu's 
Etutsun 
Tenanotlc'to- 
[huga 
Tcnanotaka 
Kowozin 


Keehohn 


Tuhkalah 
Koholkoi 


Menoltinah 
Kok<)h 


UnakhatAna. 


Tukat 
Nintala 


H'klut 
Mitzikh 


K'tahkhr 
Klok 


Ten&n  Kutchin. 


Tutsiin 


S'tlah 


Sunoga 

Sutzohr)h 

Kcehoh'n 

Vekhlerakht 

Kakazza 

Sitzu's 

Etutsun 

Sunotii'tla 

Sinutaga 

Khlatz 
Keeshohn 
Keehohn 
Xulanoish- 

[oini 
Sinatlusutlc 
Hohon'koh 


Tukalah 
Xahkutla 


Menoltinah 

Kok(')h 

Kuhki'iya 

Suhkaduh 

Suhkakuna 

.Sunan' 

Xeek'lt-h 

Xulana  (hu- 

|man,  Sinlun) 


Tehketsana 

Mutzikh 
Mitshee 


Tutlok 


Sintaga 

Tcetzc 

SihtzuhtJh 


Tuh 


N'nuh 


Metah 


T'suhk(')li 


VOCABULARIES   OF   THE   TINNEH   TRIBES. 


569 


English, 


'Fly!  (they) 
I  Fly  (a) 
Flour 
Friend 
I  Fingers 

;  Firewood 
I         (willow) 

Firewood 
j  (poplar) 

,  Firewood 
!         (spruce) 

Fire 

Fi.sh 


I 


In'salik. 


Notr'.khr 
T'hun 
Khlatz 
Konnah 
Tcnanilot'lu'- 
[ka 


Iloht'ltah 


Tahku'na        Tahku'na 
Mahmi'ih  Mahnu'ih 

[(dry)  Tclu'bukah 


Ulu'kuk 
In'gaUk. 


In'galik, 


Tluin 


Mikhlce-(>hn      Notokhtl' 


Unakhatdna. 


Sitzin 


Tenanilotlu- 
Ika 

Ktlatla 


Fish  (I  want)  Mahinukat 
Fish,  salmon-  Khololu'suh 
(trout; 
"     small     jNeliyuh 

I  salmon  I 
"     large     iKhak 

[salmon! 
"  whitetish.JN'tlagha 

[large 
"    "  broad 
"    "  sea 
"    "  round 


"    "  hunip- 
[backed 

"    pike, 
[(E.  es^'  -^ 

"    suckei 

"    losh 

"    mudfish 
Forehead 
Flint  (gun) 
Freeze 
Feathers 
Fishing 
Fish  gullets 
Finger  (one) 


Teliyuh 
Telmukkah 
Huh'ten 
Kolokuh 


Ivukiyiih 

Sunoyuh 

hugush 

Undu'k 

Tenakaduh 

Matsa 

T'olV  """"' 
Katsunilah 
K'lagh'h 
Tenatl(')t 


.Going  out  (I  [Ivlatrastcikh 

I  jam)! 


[('lun 
[(live 
(;u 

(iiind 
tire  en 


|Talt<itla 
()()skat 
IVehokhtr  _ 
Takadinikoh 
K'ton 


(loose  (gray)  iTutsunah 
( loose  (white)  IIohk(')h 


(iond 

(io  away 
(iodd  to  eat 
(Irave 

Gloves 

'Grass 


Nazu'n 

Anee 

Tee-ukuts 


Meetagha 


Mahnuikiit 
Khokalimya 

Ilkluguh 


Sunovuh 


Matsah 


renatli'it 


Klatrostokh 

Tcltu'tla 
( )o-oskat 
Notrastoi 

Kt'on 

Tutsunah 

llohkoh 

Nezu'n 

Notrastiiy 

Kokohodeni- 
Ikhtr 
ikhta- 


Melodit 
Alakhtuk 


Than 
H'klatz 
Konnah 
Sinlotliigha 

Suzuh 

Tahgukhtl' 

Stits 

Khun 
Mahmukat 


Tendn  h'liichin. 


uMahnuih 


Totkhakh        Kakh 


Tclmukka 


I  Sunoyuh 


Mahmuhy(')za    Illeeweh 

Tenakuh         |    

Matza              i  Matsa  Klath 

Xeekhnukh     Kohkutle'  Asoht 


Taltotla 
ShWvkhtovt 


Sinlot 


Konihah 
.Vothiikhtr 


Isa 
uk 


Tutsunah 

N'azun 

N'otrastokh 

'I'c-ukiUz 

Aninukhta-    '    , 

(khr 
To/iswintaga  Mintaga 


Tutsunah 

H()k('.h 

N'azun 

Ancii 

'I'e-ukutz 


Kinoh(')i 

Tekuh 
Kutokhtukhr 


Il'kah 


Nezun 
Xdtrastiikh 


Khunveh 


im 


4 


i 


11' 1 


Mm 


570 

/"'PENDIX. 

English. 

KUIiilo 
In'galik. 

Ulu'kuk 
In'g.ilik. 

H'hah 

TananA 
In'galik. 

Uncikhatdna. 

Tendn  Kuichin. 

Grease 

(Jrosv 

Grouse 

[(white) 
Grouse 

[(black) 

Hair  (long) 
Hair  (short) 
Head 
Heart 

Hand 
Hand  (palm 

|of) 
Hand  (back 

[of) 
Heel 
He 
Hot 

Husband 

Here 

His 

House 

Hear 

Hail 

Hungry 

T 

Ice 

Indian  (an) 

Idle 

Island 

Inside 

Iron 

Jump 
Jerk 

Knife  (small 

[sheath) 

Knife  (clasp) 

Knife(sheath) 

Know  (1) 

Kettle 

Killing(actof) 

Knee 

Knuckles 

Lips 
Leg 

Hah 

H'hah 

H'nah 

Neeyakh 

Telmukka 

Toltoya 
K'lfih 

Telki'unma 
Toltoya 

Tenatlu'ghuh 
Kl('ighuh  (fur) 
Tenatlikh 
Tenatzaya 

Telkiimma 
Toltoya 

Tenatlu'gha 
i'cnattokfi'na 
Tenav()ygho 
Tenatsayfina 

Tenatlowot 

Tenanilotod- 
[sunah 

Teehuh 

Suhkoyi'ih 
Sitzueetle'- 

[nuh 
Sihtlowot 

Sit-the 

Sinl<'>h 

Tenanilotala 

Tenaniloti'id- 
jsunah 
Tenakah 

Tenanilotah- 
[la 
Tcnanilotod- 
[sfina 

Sihnlot(')dsu- 
[nah 
Sakatutle 
No'nish 
(Heated, 
[Nilukoh) 

Vohuniieh       | 

Nilkoh            1 

1 

i 

Ilonalkuh 

Tcna 
Kfi'see 

Ten'ah 
Ku'si 
(Hill,  Set'l) 

Kun'noh 

Ilot'likhh.ini- 
[high 
Tatliolhtle' 

Kutlukat 

Sih 

T'un 

Tcnahyu 

Ko-ikhnJega 

U'ash 

Kfi-i'in 

Nohulu'kfina 
Hfitlatlohn 

1 

Weeyuh 

Nuhhotivch- 

(Hill,  N'tus-  ■■ 
Ithl'l 
Chu-ih-uch- 

[klcih: 
(Heavy, 

N'tokhl') 

Kutlukat 

Sih 
T'un 

Kutlukat 

Sih 
T'han 

Tsohutklaka- 
[tikahohn 

Sih 
T'un 

Utun 
T'hun 

Xfi 
Vuh 

D'ash 

Keelikh 
Seel'tatsit 

Kaziika* 

(Intestines, 
[KutsAyut) 

Xo'kanalkp 
lyfimazfi'la 
T'kadohna 

Nikhni'nAl- 

[kuka 
Klakadona 
Mikhcsunikh 
Naloi 
Veelkat 
Tenaku't 

Klakadohna 
Mikhlusunikh 

Tsiliki'ih 
Tcnathi'ka 

T'lakad(')hn:i 

Vukahsih 
Tutlctikh 
Suki'it 

Klahsih' 

1 

Veelkat 

Tenanlukiit 

Tenati)hman 
Tenat'na 

1 

Sitowanuh 
Sitle'nah 

Tenat'na 

Tcnatle'ni'ih 

Sutl'niih 

I 

Musqui 
Milk 

iMake 

Mix 

Mink 

iMoss 

L\Ian 

Mill 

Man  (o 
jMan 
Man  (st 

Man  (p 

'Man 

{Man  (w 

iMothcr 

Mittens 

..Mirrcjr 


\avel 
X(it,  N( 
Nose 
Nut  no\\ 
■Xiise  (bi 
No 

'Neck 


f.-wywiwwp 


iiiin  Kiiti  hill. 


;chuh 


t-the 
inli'ih 


ohunnuh 
lilkoh 


fuhliotiveli- 
-  lyuh 

Hill,  N'tus- ! 
Ithi')' 

;hu-ih-uch- 

Ikloll 

Heavy, 

N'tokhl') 


Jtun 
["hull 


LlahsiVi' 


iiitrnuh 


VOCABULARIES   OF   THE   Tl'NNEH   TRIBES. 


571 


Eiif^iish 


Large 
Love  (I) 


i.ic  down 

Lie  (you)         Hoiinsit' 
Light  (not 
;  [heavy 

Like  (similar) .Totonikhtle' 
I  ,aine 


Xutiito 
lii'salik. 


N'koh 


VirH-uk 

lii'galik. 


N'tsu 


llohnsit' 
Kantah 


Lake 
Leaf 


Many 
Much 
Mouth 
More  (want- 
led) 
More  (on 

(hand) 
Morning 
Mine 
Moon 
Moose 
Marmot 

Musquitoes 

Milk 

Make 

Mix 

Mink 

Moss 

Man 

Men 

Man  (old) 

Man  (small) 

Man  (stingy) 

Man  (poor) 

Man (one) 

Man  (white) 

Mother 

Mittens 

Mirror 

Moose  fawn 
I  Man  (dead) 

Men  of  the 
I  [Yukon 

!  _ 

N'avcl 

Not,  None 
Nose 
Not  now 
Nose  (big) 
No 

Xcck 


Tnnanii 
Jn'gali/i. 

Nutsoghuh 
'iM'katcstah, 
I  [Mkat 

I  lohnsiht' 
Nt'lokhah 


Utiakhittduii. 


Lo'oh'n 
Tcnaloht 


rcnekuh 


Klih 


Mccnrd<i'it 
Sumah 


Lo-ohn 
llrdan 
Tenali'iht 
Kli-ih' 

Ko-un' 

Katokhmi'm 

Seeyuh 

Tukhtfi'n 

Tenikc'ih 

Kontokii'zza 

Klih 

K'uh 

Koneedeni'kh 

Kuhdchuh 

Takhmahi 

K'lotle' 

Tenahyu' 

Tenahlo 

Sohkee 

Tcnayu'za 

TenayusUissa 

Tenavukala 

N'kokhtenah 

Khassak* 

Nakala 

Mintaga 


Tutsitscetra 


Yukonikho- 
I  tana 


Tenatzuhkit  Tenatzukit 

M'ki'illa  M'kulla 

Tenatzih  ,  Tenanitzih 

Klatona 

Sinket'cluik  j    

N'tyakliiJ  Kakala 


Takhmaya 

Tenahyu' 

'I'enalo 

Tenatle'tuh 

Tenayfi'za 

Tenayuskissa 

Tenavrdxala 

N'k(')[<htena 

Khassak* 

Nakala 

Meetagha 

M'neeiolx')- 

[ditohini 
Tutsitseega 
T'slatlugha 


L'ohn 

ihitsoh 

Tcnah'iht 


Hoton'tah 
Sih'yuh 

Tenckiih 


Tugntlc'sikh 

Takhniya 

Tenayfi' 
Tenalci 


N'koh 
M'katestdh 

Tasti'ih 

Hohnsit' 

N'tlaghah 

Etakantah 
Kaykuntle- 
Itikh 


L6-ohn 

siiiiVIiu' 

Klihih' 


Tendn  Kutihiii. 

N'choh 


Vun 


Sihldkh 


Siyuh 


iTeneekuh 
Kontoki'izza 


Nukala 


Penali'i 

Sohkee 

Tenayfi'za 

Tenayuskissa 

'Lenayukala 

N'k<')khtcnah 

Nakala 
I  Mintaga 


Tutsitseega 
(Mouse, 

[Tcclsuh) 
Yukonikha- 
Itana 


Sahi 
Kl'tazoh 
Tenejuh 
(Month, 
(Tikhccsoh) 


Ohtsiih 

ciiihtsri'i 


Tinji' 
Tinji' 


Mah 
Chutz 
(Mountain, 
[Nt'usthl') 


M'kullay 


Sitzukit 
M'kiiila 


Siutzi 

I 


N'tvahoh 


Tenakiikht'c'  Tenakukhtr 


SiuketVhuk    I    

N'tah,  N'tva-  Xutaga 
!  [khohl 

Sukukhir        Sukkhoh 


i'  5l 

I 
hi 


iil 


If 
■   I 


■ii   1 


\\ 


57? 


APPENDIX. 


English. 


Nails  (finger) 

New 

Near 
Needles 

Night 
Narrow 

Old 

Only 

Open 

Otter 

Other 

Oil 

Park! 
People 
Pipe  (tobac- 

Ico) 
Pain  or  sick- 
[ness 
Powder 
Powder-flask 
Plenty 
I'uU 
Paddle 
Ptarmigan 
Perhap.s 

Quickly 


Rain 

River 

Rivulet 

River  (the) 

Rock 

Rabbit 

Raven 

Run  (imp.) 

Red 

Rope  or  line 


ATM/a 

In'galik. 


Ula'kuk 
In'galik. 


Tenaniloku'-   Tenaniloku'- 


na 


Etierokhtikh 

Likhkutii 

Klotkan 

Klectakhle' 
Nt'chah'kiih 

Kloklikiie 

I'^tutsi'in 

Unketetzikh 

Mckunhna 

K'tenni 

Ilah 

T'ark 

Tenaloht 

Ku'nyuk 

Amah 

Kokfi'na 
Kohduii 
T'sahluh 

Toloi 

Telkumma 

'Rulhay 


Ina 

ikh 


Etlerokht 

Ncelkfi'tsa 

Toglnvt(Jlee 


Tuhkeeyuh 


K'tenni 


T'ark 

TenalcMit 
Ku'nyuk 

Amah 

Kokfina 
Kohdi'ih 
(N'tsugha 
llhrku't 
Togiuiliiya 
Telkumma 
Ilhay 


N'tu'ghuh       N'tu'wuh 


At'khim 

Kakhat 

Ketakakhat 

Vuki'inna 

'Lu-oh'na 

jr.Tiohneeyah 

|N'tcekah 

;  N'tu'wuh 

'1  atluhkuts 

Noghalnuh 


iMee-ukut 
iHi'inhuz 
iV'ukcinna 
iLn-oh'na 
;Nu-ohmyah 
iKlahwhu'n 
Padlokut 
Pat'lukiits 


Snow  goggles  Nokhalun'- 
[kl<)K 


Socks 
Scissors 

Snowshocs 
Sled 


Sable  (Ameri 
[can  \ 

Smoke  (fire-)  Ilkhlit 
Smoking  (to-  Kteehohn 

[bacco)] 
Sealskin  Ku'buk 


Alokhtigh(')h      

Nikhnomen-  |   

[<)lti 
Osh  Osh 

Tatatanikh-     Khotl' 

[tle'i 
Kahkyoza       iKakayoza 


[Kanoketoka 
Klaterosikh 

K'ah 


TnHaml 
In'galik. 


Eturughtigi 
Nihlku'tsah 
(Now,  Ato- 

[khoht 
Kl'tahah 
N'chahkuh 

Tenakhl'tah 
Etutsun 

Melazohn 
Kaythukeh 


T'ark 

Tanalo 

Tukak 

Amahlan 

Koku'na 


Toh'iy 

Telkumma 

'Rulhay 

N'tfi'ghuh- 
[tukhtan 

Ookhl'kohn 

Takotcnuh 
Vukfinna 

K'oii 

Tatluku'za 


Hotr 
Suhkuh 


Unakhntilna.   •  TenAn  Kutchin. 


Sinloku'na 

Etierokhtikh 

Nihrku'tsa 

Klotkan 

Kleetakhr 


Oktuhkeeveh  Ilutonuh 


.Melazh('ina       Vusi-ch 


T'ark 

Fanalo 

Tokhak 

Amah 

Kohku'na 

Kohduh 

T'kiklah 

Toh'yoah 

Telmukka 

Iril'hay 


Kutchin 
Setidchi 

Avaneela 


Tohi'iv 
Tahkoh 


N'tu'ghuh       N'tuguh 


Atkhiin 

Kakhat 

Ketakakhat 

Yuk(')nna 

Lu-ohna 

]5elhulana 

Tali-chiihn 

N'tu'gah 

Tatl'ki'its 

No'ghalnih' 

Nokhalun'- 
[klok 


Ohsh 
Khotl' 

Suhkuh 

Flklit 
Takunlitah 

(Sable  trap, 
lllahkhl'] 


Tutl'chan 
Hunch 

Vuk()nna 

Kah  " 
jTut-choiui 
Konikoi 


Suchileh 


(in   Kit/ 1  /tin. 


VOCABULARIES   OF   THE  TINNEH    xRIBES. 


573 


English. 


Small 
IStick  (a) 
Say,  or  he 
\  [says 

'Said  (he) 
iSaid  (it  was) 
jSon 

'Sister,  elder 
Sister,  young- 

I  [er 

Stone 

'sky 

iSun 

I  Star 

iSpring 

jSiinimer 

jSea 

ISquirrel 

|Salmon 

Strong 

■Stinking 

i  Steal 

ISmell 

Spit 

Strike 

Squeeze 

Sorry 

Straight 

See 

Slow 

Steel  (and 

(rtint) 
Same  (the) 

Sit 

Sew 

Swan 

Stand 

Shoot 

Sell 

Shirt 

Snow 

Slowly 

Smoke  hole 

Shot 

Saw  (he) 
Saw  (you) 
Soup 


NTMto 
In'gaiili. 


UlR'kuk 
In'salik. 


Teeth 

Tnugue 

To-morrow 

Tobacco 

Tobacco  bag 

•Talk 


Nuku'tsa 

Takhiin 

M'tcnni 

Niznf 

M'tokhneh 

Stunah 

Shodah 

Statah 

Lu-oh'na 

Tatsikh 

Talt<')hna 

Klu-fi'n 

Hfdrikott')hn 

Santagha 

Tarayuk  * 

Kli'ka 

Kaht'le' 

N'kkT 

Tatlugut 

Klikhtcndikh 

Tsutlisi'ih 

Tahzutle 

Takahiltzuh 

Nt'klukht 

Ku'luh 

Klighot 

Honikht'hjht 

Il'ghot 

Tohnunklikh 

Kantah 

Seedoh 

Tohwah 


Ooskh()t 

Kow(k'ark 

Nutagha 

El'ghot 

Hohwutlatlen 

Nodatsutli 

Honikh'lot 
Scekhlohn 
Tokhr 


iNukfija 
Ko-iikhs 


Nizn{ 


M'tenah 
Mahtuh 
Metatzuh 


Taltohna 


Tuna  mi 

'        /n'x,t/ik. 

Kityuza 

I    

Khfi'ni 


Sohoduh 
Statsiih 

Luoh'na 

Nuhovuh 


UnnkhatdHit.   ■  Ttniln  Kulchin, 


Sahn' 


Tohghultal 


Tsutlisi'ih 
Tahzutle' 
N'tlzus 

N'klukht 

Kluh6talah(')h| 

Tohnunkiikh 


Xukutzd 

Takhun 

M'tinni 

Nizni 

M't(ikhneh 

S'tunah 

S'oluluh 

Statsuh 

I.uoh'na 
Tatsikh 
Taltc')hna 


Santagha 
i(IIe  calls  it, 
i       [Untedni 
,Klika 
Kaht'le' 


Kutnukhtikh  Dikhtun 
Tahiikut 
Kcezi'ih 
Tolsunanil- 
tuts 


N'sutla 


Mitenah 
Metaytoh 
,  Mahtuh 


iUtsih 


illoitakha 
Sanuh 


Soh 
S'uhn 
Ilrilukut 
:Sant' 


lIona1ik('ih 
N'iaii 


N'tlczus 
Oontu'n 


Kowot'ark 

Nutagha 

Tagasotle 

Hklikhtyet 

Kotlayku'tsa 

N'gotkla 

Tokhr 


Kaythluku- 

[kantar 
Teetoh 
Okhtle'sch 
Tahmah 
Tukulahvm 
Okhkaklitr 


llghot 


Kantah 
Seedoh 


Ahch 
Nutagha 


X'lan 


Tohwoh 
Takalikha       1 
K'decnikh-     | 
ItukhTi 
Ooskhdt 
Kowot'ark 
NTitagha 
Tl'ghot 
jTIklityet 
iElitentetsu- 

Ecnenkhlan 
'  Scekhlohn 
Tokhtr 


Sutaskat 


Vuh 
Hwaht 


Tenalotloh  iTenalotloh  iTenawoh  Sitlotlu'gho 

Tcnatlu'la  iTenatlu'la       I    Sithl'la 

Kutohudah        Kt'oluluh  Khotonuh 

Tahku'na  .Tahku'na  'Tabaka* 

Massudika  Stamasduka   |   Malyu'dika 

,K(')niheh  !   ...    i   Khoniiiih' 


Yihkohn 


)  i 


574 


APPENDIX. 


EHglish, 


Take 

To-day 

This 

Tree 

Tlninclcr 

Toes 

Thanks 

Thumb 

Thread 

Thimble 

Tired 

Torn 

Travel 


Vein  (or 

llilood-vcssel) 

Vilhige 

Very  hot 


Water 
Water  (I 

[want) 
Water  (l)ring) 
Water  (he 

[drinks) 
Water  (I 

[drink) 
Water  (you 

[clrink) 
Woman 
Woman  (old) 
Wife 

Wife  (my) 
Wife  (your) 
Wife    his) 
Wait 
Walk 

Wood 
Willow 
Wing  (a) 
White 
Warm 
Wolvermc 
What  ? 
Why  ? 
Want 

Wolf 

Won't  wait 

Weather 


Naldto 
JH'ealik. 


'I"'sawnuh 
K'honih 


U/ii'kuk 
tn'gaUk. 


T'sawnuh 
Ka 


Nikhk'tfi'nahi    

Tenakahvu'-  jTcnakalwu'- 
[ghuh  _  Ighuh 


Marseti 

TenakiUr 
Kowcik 

T'niah 


Lukohna 

Tsatlu'kee 

Atlebuh 

Tu 
Tukat 

Tun'tah 
Tuku'nah 

Tukadeh 

Tfikatneh 


IMersee 

'Tcnaki'itlc' 
Kow<'ik 
IMenatluh 

Kodatee-oh 


Lukohna 


TQ 


Soltana 


Solt'ana 

Sukala  .,>...>.oww.          

Oht  „...                    

S'oht  

N'oht  

M'oht  M'oht              Oitonyoht 

Klat  

Ilotreehoh-  

[tie' 

Tseekah         I   Tseekuh 

K'as  K'as                   

M'kohna  ]   

Th'en  jT'hen              I   

AtzFim'ki'illa  Azu'm'kulla    Ilonalkoh 

Nitzikhtr  Nikhtsikhtle'  Xiltsikh 


Tattnmi 
In'siitik, 


Nilkhu't 


Suwatzuh- 
Itusintoh 


Kowinestsone 
Ilokhanidosc 

H'hat 

Nuhunul- 
[kokhtr 

TO 


UnakhatAna. 


Mulikon('>h 

Tsahum'ih 

Khohni 

Tsowah 

Nikhltu'nah 

Skalo-idil'ah 

Marsee 

Suhkutle' 


Ttiitkn  KuUhin. 


Tsah 
Tsfi'hwih 

Mahsih 


Tell  him, 

I  Vfikotsoh  onih) 
(Little  toe,      j(Travel,  Nota- 

Suhkulsim  ya)      [stokhl'j 


Lukc'ihna 

Nahuluku- 

[nohn 
At'klebah 


Tu 
Tul 

Tun'tah 


Tukat 


Sohkala 

Oht 

S'oht 

N'oht 

U'oht 

Klat 


Tatl'khu'n 
Tsutr 
M'koh'na 
L'kokhtr 


Toh  ?  |T'mah  ? 

Hokhenee  .■' 
Kat  (a  suffix) 

Nikohna  Nikohna 


Chu 


Trinj<'ih 


T'sutz 


Nitsoh 


iNikhtsikh 

.._ JToh?  Kenee? 

Keenogun  ?     Tohnloh  ? 
Yuhokudast-  Kat' 

[lohn 
Kuhkowu  -      Yus 

[nuh 
Noku'nun        (What  do  vou' 

I    [want?  'N't  atsohokat) 
Kutiteeya       ' ^    ■ .    •_;^i^ 


VOCABULARIES   OF  THE   TINNEH   TRIIIES. 


575 


English. 

\Vc,  Ours 
jWatcIiing 
Walrus  skin 
Wives  (liav- 

|ing2) 
:Walking 
Winter 
Wind 
W()o(l(jicen) 
Wild 
Where? 
Who? 
What  say  ? 
What  for? 

jWeascI 

] 

\'ou,  Vour 

\'es 

Wstcrday 
A'esterday 
'I (Day  hcfore) 
IVoinig 

\'ear 

Vcar  (last) 

.Year  (next) 

Yawn 


MiUto 
In'g.ilik. 


Hwectaghuh 


Vllt'kuk 
I       Jn'galik. 

I        "'       ~ 

Xcekfin 

Ehnruliii 
|Tseck(ikli 

Nilnckhotayu 


Hoti? 
Tohtenni  ? 
Tohghultiil 


N'neh 
1 1  oh 

Kuhti'ihna 
Kulonakuh 

Klughtogo- 

[lugh 
Ile-ahghiih 

Oghuh 

Oghutlah 


I  N'neh 
Iloh 


Tiinaml 
ln'galik. 


UnakluUdHa.   \  Tendn  Kutchin. 


Nakhalii't 


T'seeyiih         Nohi'in 


IIotrceh('itl' 

I  Ioyd('ih 

llocleetsik'h 

T'sumah 

Nilkiit 

Hot( 

Tfimah 

Kfinih' 

Kenoghun 


Kyinti 
Ilwoi 


N'neh  N'neh  Nun 

All  Hoh  Ahhah 

Koht('ihna        Kuhtona  Kotenneh 

Kod(Jnhonot- 

[klah 
Katas  taguli-  Atakhlehih 

[leh 
Ohutlan  Ncc-ohodahl-  Ilihtah 

\  [klut 

Oghnuhnot-    I    

[klai 

Kechonotitnl'    

[klut 
Ist'losh  I    


\v  m 


APPENDIX    G. 

NATURAL     HISTORY. 
LIST  OF  TIIL   MAMMALIA  OF  ALtVSKA. 

XNSECTIVORA. 

Soricidee. 


Sorez  Forsterl,  Rich. 
Sorex  Cooperi,  lUcii. 
Sorex  pachypus,  Haikd,  n.  s. 
Sorex  RoBBii,  liAiRU,  n.  s. 


I^rge  Shrew. 
Tiny  Shrew. 
White-sided  Shrew. 
Gray  Shrew. 


CARNIVORA. 

Felidse. 


Lynx  canadensis,  Raf. 


Canada  Lynx. 


Canidee. 


Canis  familiaris,  vnr.  borealis. 
Canis  occidentalis,  Uaiku. 
Vulpes  fulvus,  Baird. 
Vulpes  fulvus  var   decussatua. 
Vulpes  fulvus  var.  argentatus. 
Vulpes  lagopus,  Uaird. 


Eskimo  Dog. 

Wolf. 

Red  Fox. 

Cross  Fox. 

Silver  or  Black  Fox. 

Stone  Fox. 


Mustelidee. 

Mustela  Penuantii,  Ekxl 
Mustela  americana,  Turton. 
Putorlus  vison,  Baird. 
Putorius  pusillus,  A   &  B. 
Putorius  noveboracensis,  DeKay. 
Putorlus  Richardsonii,  Bona? 
Oulo  luscus,  Saiiine. 
Lutra  canadensis  Sabine 
Enhydra  marina,  Fleming 

Ursidae. 

Procyon  lotor,  Storr 

Ursus  horribilis?  Ord. 

Ursus  Richardsonii,  Mayne  Reid. 

Ursus  americanus,  Pallas. 

Ursus  maritimus,  Linn. 


Fisher. 

Marten. 

Mink. 

Least  Weasel. 

DeKay's  We.isel. 

Ermine. 

Wolverine. 

Otter. 

Sea-Otter 


Raccoon. 

Brown  Bear,  Grizzly. 
Barren  Ground  Bear. 
Black  Bear. 
Polar  Bear. 


Phoca  Richardl,  Gray. 
Phoca?  Pealil,  (iii.i.. 
"Phoca"  nautlcus,  I 'all. 
Pagomys?  larga,  I'am.. 
Eriguathus?  equestrla,  Pall. 
Erignathus  barbatus,  ().  1"aiir 


MA.M.MALIA  OF  ALASKA. 

PINNIPBDIA. 
Fhocidee. 


577 


Callorhinus  ursinus,  Gray. 
Eumetopiaa  Stelleri,  Gill. 


Otariidae. 


Hair-Scal. 

.Smaller  Hair-SciI. 

l.iivtak.     J,aclitak. 

Ncrpa. 

ISaiulcd  Seal  of  Cape  Romanzoff. 

Ijcarclfd  .Seal. 


Fiir-Scal. 
Sea-Lion. 


Rosmaridae. 

Rosmarua  obesus,  Illiglr.  Walrus. 


'Hi 


RODENTIA. 


Sciuridae. 

Scinrus  hudsonius,  Pallas. 
Spermophilus  Parryi,  Rich. 
Arctomys  pruinosus,  (;.mi.lin. 
Castor  canadensis,  Kuhl. 

Muridae. 

Hesperomys  leucopus,  Wagn. 
Arvicola  xanthognathus,  Leach. 
Arvicola  Gapperi,  Vigors. 
Arvicola  rubricatus,  Rich. 
Myodes  hudsonius,  Furstkr. 
Myodes  gronlandicus.  Rich. 
Myodes  trlmucronatus,  Rich. 
Myodes  helvolus.  Rich. 


Red  Squirrel. 
Ivnishka.     Afarniot. 
Siftleur.     Hoary  Marmot. 
Beaver. 


White-footed  Arouse. 
Vellow-noscd  Mouse. 
Rcdbacked  Mouse. 
Western  Field  Mouse. 
Hudson's  Lenuninf;. 
Greenland  Lemming. 
Hack's  Lemming. 
'I'awny  Lemming. 


Erethizon  dorsatus,  F.  C 


Hystricidae. 


uv. 


Lepua  glacialis,  Lkach. 
Lepus  campestris,  Bach. 


Leporidae. 


Porcupine. 


Polar  H.ire. 
Polar  Rabbit. 


■  ,   i 


Elephas  primigenius,  Blum 
37 


PROBOSCIDEA. 
Elephantidae. 

Fossil  Elephant. 


5/8 


APPENDIX. 


UNGULATA. 


\^-'..%y- 


n^m. 


Cervidae. 


Alee  americanus,  Jardine. 
Rangifer  groenlandicus,  Linn. 
Cervua  columbiauus,  Rich. 


Cavicornia. 


Aplocerus  montanus,  Rich. 
Ovis  montana,  Cuvii.r. 
Ovibos  moacbatus,  Blainville. 
Bob  americanus? 
Bos  priscus?  Founi's. 
Bos  crassiooruis,  Forijes. 


EquidcC. 


Equus  foasilis,  Forbes. 


Moose. 
Reindeer. 
Black-tailed  Deer. 


Mountain  Goat. 
Mountain  Sheep. 
Musk  Ox.     Fossil  only? 
Fossil  Buffalo. 
F'ossil  liison. 
P'ossil  Ox. 


Fossil  Horse. 


CETACEA. 


Balaenidae. 

Balaena  mysticetus,  Linn. 
Balaeiia  Sieboldii,  (]ray. 
Balaena  cullamach,  Cham. 
Rhachianectes  glaucus,  Cope. 
Megaptera  versabilis,  Cope. 
Balaenoptera  velifera,  Cope. 
Sibbaldius  sulfureus,  Cope. 


Bowhead. 

Japan  Whale. 

Pacific  Right  Whale. 

California  (Jray  Whale. 

Humpback. 

F'inner. 

Sulphur  Bottom. 


Fhyseteridae. 

Physeter  macrocephalus,  Linn.  Sperm  Whale. 


Globiocephalus  Scammonii, 
Orca  ater,  Cope. 
Orca  rectipinna,  Cope. 
Delphinus  styx,  Gray. 
Delphinus  obliqiiidens,  Gill. 
Delphinapterus  borealis,  Peale. 
Fhocaena  vomerina,  (Jii.i.. 
Beluga,  sp. 


Delphinid^. 

Cop  ,. 


Blackfsh. 
Short-finned  Killer 
Killer 
Porpoise- 

Bottle-nose  Grampus. 
Right  Whale  I'orpoise. 
Bay  I'orpoise. 
White  Fish.     See-su-iik 


Inn. 


SIRENIA. 

Manatidse. 

Rytina  Stelleri,  Brandt,  Sea-Cow.     (Extinct.) 


ler 


ice-su-uk  (Inn.) 


tinct.) 


FISHES    OF   ALASFCA. 


LIST   OF  THE   FISHES   OF  ALASKA. 


579 


(The  fishes  collected  by  the  Scientific  Corps  are  yet  tiiidotcrmined  ;  the  list  there- 
fore only  includes  the  most  common  species,  and  the  names  applied  to  them  by  the 
natives  and  Russians.) 


Marine  Fishes. 


Scientific  N.ime. 

Gadus  macrocephalus,  Til. 
Gadus,  sj). 
Gadus  gracilis,  Til. 
HippoglosBus  vulgaris?  Cuv. 
Pleuronectea  quadi  i'-uberculatus, 

I'.VLL. 

Platichthys  stellatus,  Ciu. 
Clupea  mirabilis,  Gik. 
Clupea  sagax,  Jen. 
Thaleicthys  paclficus,  f'.iR. 
Hexagranima  Stelleri,  Tii.. 
Hemilepidotus  trachurus,  Pall. 
Hypomesus  olidus,  (a  nth. 
MallotuB  villosus,  Mull. 
Hippocampus  ingens?  Gir. 
Orthagoriscus  analis,  Avrks. 
Eumicrotremus  orbis,  G  until 
? _. 

9  


Knglish. 

Cod. 

.Small  Cod. 
Tomcod, 
Halibut. 


Russian. 


N.itive. 


NVaukhni,       Ik(')thluk. 


Flounder,  Kambal. 

Spir     flounder,     Kamb.il. 

Ilerni'p;. 

Pilchard. 

Uiikon, 

Sculpin,  Golovarti. 

Sculpin. 

Smelt. 

Capelin. 

Sca-Horse. 

Sunfish. 

Globe-fish. 

Mullet. 

Rock  Perch. 


Uiikon. 


Fresh-water  Fishes  of  the  Yukon. 

Salmo  alpinus?  Linn.  Salmon  Trout,        Kolshch, 

Salmo  purpuratua,  Tall.  Purple  Salmon. 

Onchorhynchus  orientalis,  Pali.   King  Salmon, 


Oiichorhynchus  protcus,  Pvit.. 
Ouchoihynchus  lycaddon,  Pall. 
0.1  lOihynchua  ;  .xnguinolentus, 

Pall. 
Onchorhyuchus  lagocephalus, 

Pali  . 
Coregonus  muksun,  Pall. 
Coregonus  nasus?  Pall. 
Coregonua,  s|). 
Coregonus,  sp. 
Coregonus,  sp. 

luciotrutta  leucicthys,  Pall, 
Thymalis  Pnllasii,  Cuv. 
Eaox  eator.  Lis. 
Lota  maculata?  Lin. 
Catoatomua  teres,  Much. 
Cottua?  sp. 
Entosphenus.  sp. 


Salmon, 
Dogfish, 

Kedli.sh, 


Chowichec, 
Iloikoh, 


Kholotusuh. 
K  hak. 


Nulaguh 
Kr.isnoi  riba,  Ncliyuh. 

Kc(.'/.i(  li, 


.Salmon,  Kcc/.uli,         Nfit'ghlaghuh. 

IJroad  Whitefish,    MaksO'n,         Teliyi'ih 
Round  Wiiitcfish,  Krug,  Huh'ten 

Sc.i  Whitefish,        Morskoi  sigiia,  Telmi'ikkah. 


Nul.ito  W'liilofish.  Cigha, 


I[um|)lia(kcd    " 

CruM  Whitefish, 

Grayling, 

Pike, 

Losh. 

Sucker, 

lil.ackfish, 

Lamprey. 


Rnrabiili, 

iV.iylirna, 

Koraski, 

.Su'khuh, 

.N.ilimc, 

Kraskee, 


Seegln'ih 

Kolokuh. 

Nt'higha. 

Tclmyah. 

Rhukiyuh. 

Lri.:ush. 

Sunovuh. 


Tchornyriba,  UndiVk. 


I'l 


m 


580 


APPENDIX. 


Kennicott's  Owl. 


BIRDS    OF    ALASKA. 


The  following  list  of  the  birds  obtained  in  Alaska  by  the  Scientific 
Corps  will  he  of  interest  to  many.  Those  who  desire  to  pursue  tiie 
subject  further  are  referred  to  the  publications  of  the  Chicago  Academy 
of  Sciences  for  1869. 

Italics  indicate  that  the  bird  is  new  to  science  or  to  North  America. 

K. 

S. 

Y.         "         "         "         "  the  Yukon  Territory. 

t  "       that  the  species  is  common  to  both. 

O.        "        "      "    eggs  were  also  obtained. 


denotes  the  locality,  as  Kadiak  )  o-.i     -n-  ..  •  ^ 
■"  -  Sitka  District. 

"        "         "        "  Sitka      ) 


Duck  Hawk. 

Pigeon  Hawk. 

Gerfalcon. 

Goshawk. 

Sharp  sHiNNKi;  Hawk. 

Brown  Hawk. 


Falco  anatuni.     t  O. 

Hypotriorchis  columbarius.     t  ( > 

Falco  sacer.     Y. 

Astur  atricapillus.     Y.  O. 

Accipiter  fuscus.     t- 

liuteo  insignatus.     Y. 


BIRDS  OF  ALASKA. 


58' 


^ 


^. 


V  the  Scienlific 
to  puriiae  llie 
cago  Academy 

ith  America. 


arius.     t  ^^^ 
(). 


Swain.son's  Hawk. 

ROUC.H-LEGGKD    Haw  k. 

Marsh  Hawk. 

CioLDKN  Eagle. 

]!ali>  Kagle. 

Fish  Hawk.. 

CiKEAi'  Horned  Owl. 

Katnicotfs  Oivl. 

Short-eared  Owl, 

Oreat  (Jray  Owl. 

Sparrow  Owl. 

Sn<i\vv  Owl. 

Hawk  Owl. 

Hairy  Woodpecker. 

Downy  Woodpecker. 

'riiREE-TOED  Woodpecker. 

Golden  Flicker. 

Rkd-shafted  Fucker. 

Hummin(;  iJiRD. 

Kingfisher. 

Dwarf  Thrucjh. 

Oregon  Thri'sh.  "    ■ 

Olive-p.acked  'J'hrtsh. 

(Iray-cheeked  Thrush. 

RoiiiN. 

'^FsiKRN  Robin. 

Stone  cliat. 

R'liv  crowned  Wren. 

CiOI.I  KN  CROW>.ED    WrEN. 

\\Ari.K  Ouzel. 
'I'll   Lark. 
European  Wagtail. 

(lOLDEN-t  ROWNED   TlIRUSH. 

\V.\rER  Thrush. 

(  )kANGECROWNED  W..RI!I,KR. 

European  Warbler. 
\ellow-rump  Warhler. 
Hi.ack-cap  Warhler. 
Vki.i.ow  Warbler. 
Hi  .^CK-CAP  Flycatcher. 
Haun  Sw.mlow. 


Buteo  Swainsoni.     Y.  O. 

Archibuteo  lagopus.     f  O. 

Circus  hudsoniiis.     Y. 

Ac|uila  canadensis.     Y. 

Haliaetus  leucocepiialus.     S.  K. 

Pandioii  carolinensis.     t  O. 

Bubo  virginianus.     V.  O. 

Seops  Kennicoitii,  Flliot,  n.  s.     S. 

Bracliyotus  Cassini.     Y. 

Syrniuni  cinereiim.     Y. 

Nyctale  Tengmalmi.     Y. 

Nyctea  nivea.     Y. 

Surnia  ulula.     f  O. 

Picus  villosus.     S. 

Picus  pubescens.     f 

Picoides  hirsutus.     Y. 

Colaptes  aiiratus.     Y. 

Colaptes  me.xicanus.     S. 

Selasphoriis  rufus.     S.  O. 

Ceryle  alcyon.     t 

Turdus  nanus.     S.  K. 

Turdus  ustulatus.     S. 

Turdus  Swainsoni.     Y.  O. 

Turdus  aliciiv;.     t  O. 

T.  migratorius.     Y.  O. 

Turdus  n;\;vius.     t  O. 

Saxieola  xnaittlw.     Y. 

Regulus  calendula.     Y. 

R.  satrapa.     S.  K. 

Hydrobata  moxicana.     Y. 

Anthus  ludovicianus.     f 

Bittlytes  fhvi'a.     Y. 

Seiurus  aurocapillus.     Y. 

S.  noveboracensis.     Y.  O. 

Helniinthophaga  celata.     Y.  O. 

riiylivpneuste  Kennicottii,  Baird,  n.  s. 

Dtndroica  coronata.     Y. 

Dendrolca  striata.     Y. 

Dendroica  a'stiva.     t  O. 

Myiodioctes  pusilkr.     f  O. 

Hirundo  liorreorum.     +  O. 


ll 


'J 

■m 
I'  I 

r 
i 

i 


!  ■«! 


fnrrT 


I  i 

m 


'}\  ' 


582 


APPENDIX. 


Eave  Swallow. 
River  Swallow. 
Bank  Swallow. 
Waxwlng. 
Great  Shrike, 
S/.  Georges  Wren. 
Winter  Wren, 
Black-cap  Titmouse. 
Red  Titmouse. 
Hudson  Bay  Titmouse. 
Skylark. 


Hirundo  lunifrons.     Y.  O. 
Hirundo  bicolor.     Y. 
Cotyle  riparia.     Y.  O. 
Ampelis  garruliis.     Y.  O. 
Collyrio  borealis.     Y. 
Trog/odytes  alascensls  Baird,  n.  s. 


St. 


T.  hyemalis.     S. 
Parus  atricajjillus.     f 
Parus  rufescens.     S. 
P.  hudsonicus.     Y. 
Eremophila  cornuta. 


[George': 


Y. 


Pvrrluila  var.  Cassini. 


American  Bullfinch. 
Pine  Grosbeak. 
Red  Crossbill. 
White-winged  Crossbill. 
Redpoll. 

Gray-necked  Finch. 

Island  Finch. 
Snow  Bunting. 
Lapland  Longspur. 
Painted  Bunting. 
Savannah  Sparrow. 
Nootka  Sparrow. 
Spotted  Sparrow. 
Lark  Sparrow. 
Gambel's  Finch. 


Pyrrhula  coccinea  var.  Cassini  Baird. 

[V. 


s. 

Y. 


t   O.     St. 


Pinicola  enucleator.     t 
Curvirostra  americana. 
Curvirostra  leucoptera. 
yflgiothus  linaria.      Y.  O.   K.,  and 

var.  fuscescens. 
Leucostictc  griseinucha, 

George's.     Bon.  not  auct. 
Leucostictc  littoralis  Baird,  n.  s. 
Plectrophanes  nivalis.     Y.  O. 
P.  lapponicus.     Y. 
P.  pictus.     Y. 
Passerculus  savanna. 
P.  sandwichensis.     S. 
Passerculus  anthinus. 
Pass,  alaudinus.     f 
Zonotrichia  Gambelli. 


to. 


to. 


Y.  O. 


■&:, 


BIRDS   OF   ALASKA. 


583 


Golden-crowned  Finch. 

Oregon  Snowbird. 

]![,ACK.  Snowbird. 

Tree  Sparrow. 

Lincoln's  P'inch. 

Rusty  Sono  Sparrow. 

Kadiak  Finch. 

Iox-colored  Sparrow. 

Oregon  Finch. 

RusTV  Blackbird. 

Raven. 

Western  Fish  Crow. 

Clarke's  Crow. 

Magpie. 

Steller's  Blue  Jay. 

Canada  Jay. 

Canada  Grouse. 

Dusky  Grouse. 

Pheasant. 

Ruffed  Grouse. 

Oregon  Grouse. 

White  Grouse,  Corapatka. 

Rock  Grouse. 

Sand-hill  Crane. 

Little  Crane. 

Great  Blue  Heron. 

Golden  Plover. 

Semi-palmated  Plover. 

Black-bellied  Plover. 

Surf  Bird. 

Oyster  Catcher. 

rURNSTONE. 

Black  Turnstone, 
Northern  Phalarope. 
Red  Phalarope. 
English  Snipe. 
Rr.n-BREASTED  Snipe. 

L(l\C,BEAK. 

Knot. 

Purple  Sandpiper. 

Red-backed  Sandpiper. 


Zonotrichia  coronata.     S.  K. 
Junco  oregonus.     S. 
Junco  hyemalis.     Y.  O. 
Spizella  montkola.     f  O. 
Melospiza  Lincolnii.     Y. 
Melospiza  rufina.     S. 
Mciospiza  iiisignis  Baird,  n.  s.     K. 
PassereUa  iliaca.     Y.  O. 
Passerella  Townscndi.     S.  K. 
Scolecophagus  ferrugineus.     t  O. 
Cor\us  carnivorus.     t  O- 
Corvus  caurinus.     S. 
Picicorvus  colunibianus.     S. 
Pica  hiulsonica.     S.  K. 
Cyanura  Stelleri.     S. 
Perisoreus  canadensis.     Y.  O. 
Tetrao  canadensis.     Y.  O. 
Tetrao  obscurus.     S. 
Pedi(tcctcs  jjliasianellus.     Y.  O. 
Bonasa  iimbellus.     Y.  O. 
Bonasa  Sabinii.     S. 
Lagopus  albus.     Y.  O. 
Lagopus  rupestris.     Y.  O. 
Grus  canadensis.     Y.  O. 
Grus  var.  fraterculus.     Y. 
Ardea  herodias.     S. 
Charadrius  virginicus.     f  O. 
i^lgialitis  semipalniatiis.     t  O. 
Squatarola  helvetica,     f- 
Aphriza  virgata.     S. 
Hrematopus  niger.     S.  K. 
Strepsilas  interpres.     Y. 
Str.  meLinocephala.     t  O. 
Lobipes  hyperboreus.     Y.  O. 
PhaLaropus  fulicarius.     Y. 
Gallinago  Wilsonii.     t 
Macroramphus  griseus.     Y. 


Y.  O. 


Macr.  scolopaceus. 

Tringa  canuta.     + 

Tringa  maritima. 

Pelidna  rar.  americana.     t  O. 


t 


584 


APPENDIX. 


IH 


II- -1 

i'    Hi 


Jack  Snipe. 
lUiRij's  Snipe. 

Least  Sandpiper. 

SANDEKMNd. 

Little  Sandpiper. 

Tei.l-tale. 

Yem.ow  Lehs. 

SuMTAKY  Sandpiper. 

Tatler. 

S  "n'TED  Sandpiper. 

Field  Plover. 

UUEK-HREASTEP    SNIPE. 
HUDSC;.S    (loDWlT. 

European  Godun/. 

Esquimaux  Curlew. 

Curlew. 

Coot. 

American  Swan. 

Trumpeter  Swan. 

Snow  Cioosr.. 

White  FRONTED  Goose. 

Canada  (Joose. 

Western  Goose. 

Whitf-cheeked  (iOOSE. 

Hutchins'  Goose. 

Black  Brant. 

Empekor  (jOOSE. 

Mallard. 

Pintail. 

Green-winced  Teal. 

Blue-winged  Teal. 

Shoveller. 

Bald-pate. 

Great  Blackhead. 

Little  Blackhead. 

Canvas-isack. 

Golden-eve. 

Barrow's  Golden-eve. 

Butter-Ball. 

Harleouin  Duck. 

Old  Squaw,  Safka. 


Actodroinus  maculatus.     f 
Actodroimis  Bairdii.     f 
Actodroinus  minutilla.     t  O. 
Calidris  arcnaria.     f 
Ercunetcs  pusillus.     f  O. 
Gambelta  melanoleuca.     S. 
Ganibctta  Havipes.     Y.  (). 
Rhyacopliilus  solitarius.     Y. 
Hcterocclt's  brevipcs.     t 
Tringoidus  maculaiius.     f 
Actiturus  bartramius.     Y. 
Trynt^ilcs  riifcsccns.     f 
Liinosa  hiidsonica.     Y. 
Lhnosa  uropygialis.     Y.  O. 
Numenius  borealis.     Y. 
Numenius  hiidsonicus.     t 
Fulica  amcricana.     Y. 
Cyginis  imcricaiius.     Y.  O. 
Cygnu>  buccinator.     Y.  O.     ?  S. 
Chen  liyperboreus.     Y. 
Anser  Gamljclii.     Y.  (). 
Bernicla  canadensis,     t  O. 
Bernicia  var.  occiilentalis.     S. 
Bernicla  leucopareia.     Y. 
Bernicla  Hutchinsii.     Y.  O. 
Bcrni(  l.i  nigricans.     Y. 
Chl(L'plia^a  canagica.     Y.  O. 
Anas  boschas.     Y.  (). 
Dafila  acuta,     t  O. 
Xctli)!!  carolincnsis.     t  O. 
Querqucdula  discors.     Y. 
Spatula  clypeata.     Y. 
Marec.i  aniericana.     \ .  (.). 
Fulix  marila.     t  o. 
Tulix  affinis.     Y.  O. 
Athya  vallisncria.     Y.  O. 
Buccphala  aniericana.     Y.  O. 
Bucephala  islandica.     1 1^'' 
Bucephala  albeola.     Y.  O. 
Histrionicus  torquatus.     f 
Harelda  giacialis.     f  O. 


1!^  (, 
.1   ' 
■.*f.  - 


BIRDS   OF  ALASKA. 


Steller's  Eider. 
Spectacled  Kider. 


Polysticta  Stelleri.     K. 
Tvampronetta  Fischeri.     Y.  O. 


585 


13 


Lampronetta  Fischeri. 


Velvet  Duck. 
Surf  Duck, 
I,()Nr;-p,iLLED  Scoter. 

Scr>TER. 

I'Acinc  Eider. 
King  Eider. 

SlIKLItRAKK. 

Rkd-iireasted  Mercan'  ^.R. 

Brilliant  Cormorant. 

I  )i  )IIiLE-C  RESTED    CoRMORAN'T. 

Violet-green  Cormorant. 

Gony. 

St.  Georges  Fulmar. 

T'lKK-TAiLKii  Petrel. 

I-kai.h's  Petrel. 

Sl.KNDKR-Iill.l.KD    PeTREL. 

Arctic  Skua. 
Ska  Hawk. 

BL'k(;OM  ASTER. 

Pacific  Gull. 


Melanctta  velvetina.     t  O. 
Pelionetta  perspicillata.     t  O. 
Pelionetta  Trowbiidgii.     S. 
Oidcmia  anicricana.     \'.  O. 
Somatena  V-nigra.     Y.  <'). 
Somateria  spectabilis.     V.  O. 
Mergus  ai..ericanuH.     t 
Mergu;  scrrator.     t  O. 
Graculiis  hicristatus  Pailas.     ^'.  K 
Graculus  dilophus  ?     S. 
Graculus  violaccus  ?     S.  K, 
Diotncdea  nigripcs.    S.    ( Oixanic.) 
Fiitmnnis  Roger  si.     Y. 
'I'lKilassidronia  furcata.     S. 
'I'halassidroma  Leachii.     S. 
Nectris  tenuirostris  Tcmin.     \ . 
Stercorarius  parasiticus.     Y.  K. 
Stercorariiis  Piiiffoni.     Y. 
Earns  glaucus.     Y. 
Earus  glaucescens.     S  K. 


586 


APPENDIX. 


ili 


White-winged  Gull. 
Herring  Gull. 
Wm  IE  Gull. 
A^ort/icrn  Gull. 
Short-p.illkd  Gull. 
Bonaparte's  Gull. 

KiTTIWAKE. 

Kcd-footcd  Kittiwakc, 
Saisine's  Gull. 
Arctic  Tern. 
White-tailed  Tern. 
Short-tailed  Tern. 
Loon. 

Arctic  Diver. 
Adams'  Diver. 
Red-throated  Diver. 
Red-necked  Grebe. 
Horned  Greise. 
Tui'TED  Puffin. 
White-breasted  Puffin. 
Lai'.rador  Auk. 
Horn  BILL. 
Crested  Auk. 
Little  Auk. 
Dusky  Auk. 
Least  A\:k. 
Cassin's  Auk. 

Guillemot. 
Foolish  Guillemot. 
Califounian  Murre. 
Thick-billed  Murre. 
Marbled  Guillemot. 
Wrangell's  Guillemot. 
Ancient  Auk. 


Larus  leucopterus.    Y.  O. 

Larus  argentatus.     Y.  O. 

Larus  Hutcliinsii.     Y. 

Larus  borealis.     Y. 

Larus  brachyrhynchus.     f  O. 

Chroicocephalus  Philadelphia,     t 

Rissa  tridactyla.     f 

Rissa   breinrostris  Brandt  not  auct 

Xenia  Sabinii.     Y.       [St.  George's 

Sterna  macroura.     f  O. 

Sterna  aleutica  Baird,  n.  s.     K.     O. 

Hydrochelidon  fissipes.     Y.  O. 

Colymbus  torquatus.     Y.  O. 

Colymbus  arcticus.     Y.  O. 

Colymbus  Adamsii.     K. 

Colymbus  septentrionalis.     Y. 

Podiceps  griseigena.     Y.  O. 

Podiceps  cornutus.     Y.  O. 

Mormon  cirrhata.     f 

Mormon  corniculata.     t 

Sagmatorrhina  labradoria.     K. 

Cerorhina  monocerata.     S. 

Phaleris  cristatella.     K. 

Phaleris  microceros.     Y.  K. 

Phaleris  tetracula.     Bering  Strait. 

Phaleris  pusilla.     Aliiiska. 

Simorhynchiis   Cassini  Coues,   n.   s. 
Ounimak  Pass. 

Uria  columba.     f  O. 

Uria  lomvia.     K. 

Uria  californica.     S.  K.  O. 

Uria  arra.     K.    St.  George's  Island. 

Brachyrhamphus  marmoratus.     S. 

Brachyrhamphus  Wrangellii.    S.    [S. 

Brachyrhamphus  antiquus.  Aliaska. 
The  above  refers  only  to  the  species  actually  collected.  Sundry 
others  were  observed,  but  not  obtained,  as  the  hooded  merganser  and 
the  European  lapwing ;  but  it  was  considered  best  to  catalogue  only 
those  actually  brought  home.  Many  of  which  the  eggs  were  not  ob 
tained  were  known  to  breed.  Future  collectors  may  be  expected  to  make 
additions,  both  to  the  number  of  known  birds  inhabiting  the  country, 
and  the  knowledge  of  their  geographical  distribution. 


Uu ', 


INSECTS   OF   ALASKA. 


5^7 


T 


! 


INSECTS. 

List  of  Diurnal  Lepidoptera. 

Vanessa  antiopa  Ochs.     Nulato,  May. 
Erebia  discoidalis  Kirby.     Yukon  River,  May  and  June. 
Erehia  ATaminus  Douhl.     Nulato,  May. 
Graptaf annus  Eclw.      ?      Yukon  River,  June. 
Mclitim  Ifelvia  Scudder,  n.  s.     Yukon  River,  June  15th. 
MiUta:a  sp.  (?  M. palla  Boisd.).     Fort  Yukon. 
Lyaena  Lucia  ^Vest\v.     Yukon  River,  June. 

Pierh  Tcnosa  Scudder.     Yukon  River,  June  and  July,  below  Nulato. 
Authocaris  htueolata  Boisd.     Yukon  River,  abo\e  the  Ramparts. 
Colias  interior  Scudder.     Fort  Yukon,  June  25th. 
Papilio  Turnus  Linn.     Yukon  River,  June  and  July,  abundant. 
Fapi/io  Aliaska  Scudder,  n.  s.     Nulato  to  Hudson  Bay,  May  and  June. 
Parnassius  Eversmannii  Menet.     Yukon  River,  June  15th.    (Siberian.) 
Species  were  noticed,  but  not  obtained,  which  may  have  been  other 
than  those  enumerated  above. 


List  of  Nocturnal  Lepidoptera. 

BOMBYCIDiE. 

Euprepia  caja  Linn.     St.  Michael's,  August. 

Platarctia  borcalis  Moschler. 

Phragmatobia  Dallii  l^ackard,  n.  s.     June  isth. 

Gastropacha  alaskcnsis  Packard,  n.  s.     Yukon  River,  June  loth. 

phai,/enid;e. 
AManippe  liastata  Linn.     Yukon,  July. 
Coremia  sp.  indet.     Nulato. 
Hoitnatopis  sp.  indet. 
Anisopteryx  sp.  indet.     St.  Michael's,  September  20th. 

TINEID^E. 

Dcpressaria  and  three  other  unrecognizable  forms. 
List  of  Hymenoptera. 

AMD/K. 

Bombus  pccidmtalis  Greene.     Yukon  Valley. 
Bombus  flavifrons  Cress.     Yukon  Valley. 


li 


5S8 


APPENDIX. 


Bombiis  frii^idiis  Smith.     Niilato. 
liombus  hicustris  Ocss.      Kutlik. 
Bombus  Kirbycllus  Curtis  ?     Kutlik. 

VF.SI'IIJ/E. 

I'cspiX  arciiariix  I'';il)r.      Kutlil  . 

Vispa  iiorTCi^iiii  l'';ibr.      Kutlik. 

I'cs/ia  tripunctiUd  Packard,  n.  s.     Kutlik. 

V'espa  alaskcnsis  Packard,  n.  s.     Kutlik. 

I'O.MI'lLin.K. 

Pompiliis  /iiifiiosiis  Cress.     Kutlik. 

FOKMlCID/li. 

Formica  licnulaiica  Linn.     Kutlik. 


UKOCERlD.i;. 

Urocents  flavicornis  Fabr.     Yukon. 

List  of  Neuroptera. 

PERLINA. 

Ptcrouarcys  bilobti  Newman.     Nulato. 

Pcrla  sp.  (undetermined).     Yukon  River. 

Pcrla  sp.  "  "  " 

Pcrla  {iVcp/ic/ioii)  Dallii,  Uhler,  n.  s.     Yukon  River. 

*  Pcrla  sencra  liagen.     Unga  Island. 


AGRIONINA. 


Ag;rion  anticxiim  Hagen.     June  25,  near  Fort  Yukon. 
Lestes  sp.  $  (undetermined).     Yukon  River. 


/KSCHNINA. 

.^Esclnia  clepsydra  Say.     July,  near  Fort  Yukon. 

*  .Eschua  silken  sis  Hagen.     Sitka. 
*^Eschna  juncca  Linn.     Kenai,  Cook's  Inlet. 

*  Added  to  coin]ilcte  the  list  of  known  Alaskan  species,  from  Ilagen's  Synop^^is  oi 
the  North-American  Neuroptera. 


^ 


USEFUL  PLANTS  OF  ALASKA. 

MI!i;i.l,lLI.VA. 

Cordulia,  like  T.  icita.     Yukon  River. 

CorduHa  Shunkffi  Sciuklcr.     June,  near  Fort  Vukon,  common. 

Cordulia  cranita  Scuclder.     June,  near  Fort  Yukon. 

Diplax  intada  Hagen.     June  25,  near  Fort  Yukon. 

mikv(;am.\a. 
*Limuoplulus  vastus  Hagen.     Keiiai,  Cook's  Inlet. 
*Lim„ophUus  perjurns  Hagen.     Kenai,  Cook's  Inlet. 
Limnophilus  ?  n.  s.     Nulato,  May  1 2tli,  one  specimen. 
tryplot/irix  hisulans  Hagen,  n.  s.     Nulato. 


5«9 


LIST   OF    USEFUL    I'LAXTS    IXDKW-.XOl'S    IN    TIIF    TEKRI 

TORY   OF   ALASKA. 

KANINCILACK/E. 

Hepiitica  triioha  Chaix.     Sitka. 

Coptis  trifolia  Sal.  " 

C.  aspknifolia  Sal.  " 

Aconitum  Napdlus,  van  dclphiuifoliunu     Sitka,  northward. 

CKUClFKR.Ii:. 

Nasturtium  palustrc  I).  C.  Yukon  and  Unalashka. 
Cochkaria  fatcstrata  R.  Rr.  Norton  Sound,  north. 
C.  obloii}^iJ'olia  I).  C.  "  «  i< 

C.  aii^lica  L.     Kotzehue  Sound. 

LINA(  i:,li. 

Lhium  pcrame  L.     Fort  Yukon. 

LRfil'MIXOS/l!:. 

Trifolinm  rcpciis  L.     Sitka  (introduced). 
Lathyrus  maritimus  Big.     Sitka  and  northward. 
Hedysarum  Mackenzii  Rich.     Wikon. 


;en's  Synopsis 


KOSACK/K. 

Rubus  spectabtlts  Pursh.     Sitka,  Kadiak. 
R.  arciicus  L.     Kotzebue  Sound. 

*  Sec  note  on  preceding  page. 


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APPENDIX. 


R.  pedatns  Cmith.     Sitka. 

R.  chamcemorus  L.     Sitka  and  northward. 

R.  nutkanus  M09.     Sitka. 

Rosa  cinnamomea  L.     Yukon. 

Rosa  blanda  \,.     Sitka. 

Pyrus  rivularis  Dougl.     Sitka. 

P.  sambuci/olia  Cham.         " 

GROSSULACEiB. 

Ribes  rubrum  L.     Yukon. 

R.  hudsonianum  Rich.     Yukon. 

R.  laxiflorum  Pursh.     Sitka. 

R.  bracteosum  Dougl.       " 

R.  lacustre  Pursh.     Arctic  Coast. 

UMHELLIFF.RiC. 

Archangelica  officinalis  Hofim.     Sitka,  northward 
A.  Gmelini  D.  C.     Sitka,  northward. 

AKALIACE^. 

Panax  horridmn  Smitli.     Sitka,  Kadiak. 

CAPRIFOLIACEiB. 

Sambucus pubens  Michx.     Sitka. 

VALERIANACEiE. 

Valeriana  dioica  L.     Norton  Sound. 
V.  capitata  Willd.    Arctif  Coast. 


COMPOSITiE. 

Arnica  angiisti/olia  Vahl.    Yukon.     Kotzebue. 

A.  Chammissonis  Less.     Unalashka. 

A.  obtusifolia  Less.  " 

A.  unalashkensis  Less.  " 

A.  latifolia  Bong.     Sitka. 

Artemisia  vulgarii  L.  var.  Tilesii.    Norton  Sound. 

Taraxacum  dens-leoni   Desf.     Arctic  Coast. 


USEFUL  PLANTS  OF  ALASKA. 

ERICACEie. 

Vaccinium  Vitis-itUea  L.    Sitka.    Yukon. 

V.  myrtilioides  Hooker.       " 

V.  myrtillus  L.  " 

V.  Chamissotiis  Bong.         "  Unalashka. 

V.  ova/i/o/iiim  Smith.         " 

y.  parvifolium  Smith.        " 

V.  Salicinum  Cham.     Unalashka. 

V.  ccEspitosum  Michx.    Sitka. 

V.  uliginc'um  L.     Sitka,  northward. 

Oxycoccus  vulgaris  L.    Sitka,  northward. 

Arctostaphylos  alpina  Spreng.     Sitka,  northward. 

A.  uva  ursi  Spreng.     Unalashka,  northward. 


591 


i 


GENTIANACEiE. 

Gentiana  amarella  L.    Sitka. 


3. 


POLYGONACEili. 

Oxyria  reniformis  Hooker.    Sitka,  northward. 

Rumex  salicifolius  Weinru.      " 

R.  acetosa  L.     Kotzebue  Sound. 

R.  domesiicm  Hartm.    Sitka,  northward. 

Polygonum  viviparum  L.     Sitka,  northward. 

EMPETRACEiE. 

Empetnm  nigrum  L.     Sitka,  northward. 

SALICACE^. 

Salix  speciosa  H.  &  A.     Yukon.     Kotzebue. 

.S".  Richardsomi  Hook.     Kotzebue. 

S.  Barclayi  Anders.     Kadiak. 

S.  phyllicoides  Anders.     Western  Arctic  America. 

S.  sitkeusis  Led.     Sitka. 

Populus  balsa  mi/cm  L.     Sitka,  northward. 


URTlCACEiE. 


drtica  dioica  L.     Sitka. 


592 


APPENDIX. 


BETULACEiE. 

Bctttla  f^ltvidtilosa  Michx.     Yukon. 
B.  nana  I,.     Norton  Sound.     Arctic. 
B.  Ermaiii  Cham.     Unalashka. 
Almts  viriiius  D.  C.     Sitka,  northward. 
A.  rubra  Bong.  "  " 

A.  incana  Willd.     Kotzcbue  Sound. 

MYKICACE^. 

Myrka  Gale  L.    Sitka,  northward. 


CONIFERiE. 

Abies  canadensis  Michx.     Sitka. 

A.  Merteiisiana  Hong.  " 

A.  si/kensis  Hong.  " 

A.  alba  Michx.     Yukon  Territory. 

Larix  davtirica  Fisch.     Kiuliak.     Yukon  ? 

ritius  contorta  I)ou<;I.     Sitka.     I-'ort  Selkirk,  southward. 

Cliatiuccyparis  nntkatcnsis  Spach.     Sitka  (=  Thuja  excelsa  Bong). 

yuniperus  communis  var.  alpina  Willd.     Sitka.    Yukon  ? 


LILIACE/E. 

Fritillaria  hvnchatkaisis  I<"isch.     Sitka,  northward. 
Allium  schicnoprasum  L.     Yukon. 
Veratrum  Escholtzii  Gray.     Sitka. 


A. 


ORA88BS. 


G  R  A  M  I  N  E  iG . 

Hordcum  pratense  L.     Sitka. 
//.  jubatum  L.     Yukon. 
Elymus  sibiricus  L.     Sitka. 
E.  arenarius  L.     Norton  Sound. 

E.  mollis  Trill.     Sitka,  northward. 
Triticum  repcns  L.     Kot/ebue  Sound. 
Festuca  ovina  \..  "  " 

F.  rubra  L.     Sitka,  northward. 
F.  subulata  Bong.     Sitka. 
Bromus  ciliatus  X,,     Kotzebue. 


USEFUL  PLANTS  OF  ALASKA. 

B.  subiihtus  I,ed.     Unalashka. 
B.  a/citUnsts  Trin.  " 

B.  sitkensh  Hong.     Sitka. 

Poa  siauvttha  Trin.     Unalashka. 

P.flavicans  Led.  " 

P.  arctUa  R.  Hr.     Sitka  to  Kotzebue. 

P.  (cnisia  All.  "  " 

P.  rotuiuiata  I'rin.     Unalashka. 

P.  nemoralis  L.     Sitka  to  Kotzebue. 

P.  annua  L.  "  " 

P.  pratciisis  L.     Kotzebue. 

Co/podium  ftilvr.m  Led.     Kotzebue. 

Diipontia  psUosatitha  Rupr.     Kotzebue. 

Catabrosa  aquatica  Beauv.     Sitka.     Kotzebue. 

C.  a/git/a  Fries.     Kotzebue. 
Atropis  maritima  Led.     Sitka. 
A.  angustata  Led.     Kotzebue. 
Glyceria  aquatica  Smith.     Sitka. 

G.  glumaris  Led.     Sitka.     Kotzebue. 

Hierochloa  borealis  R.  &  S.         " 

//.  alpina  R.  &  S.  " 

Trisctum  subspicalum  Trin.        " 

71  sesquijfonim  'I'rin.     Unalashka. 

7'  ceniuum  Trin.     Sitka. 

/4/m  acspitosa  Trin.     Unalashka. 

///>vi!  var.  Bottnica  Trin.     SitKa. 

//.  rt/Y/mj!  Trin.     Sitka,     l^nalashka. 

A.  ahopurpurca  Scheele.     Sitka.     Unalashka. 

Calamagrostis  alcutica  Trin.    "  " 

C.purpurascnis  R.  Hr.     Yukon. 

(7.  siHi^osa  W'ahl.     Sitka. 

C  lapponica  Trin.     I'nalashka. 

r.  m-gUrta  (}a;rt.     Kotzebue  Sound. 

C.  canaiknsis  Beauv.     "  " 

C.  Langsdorjii  Trin.      "  " 

ArctagrosUs  latifolia  Led.     Kotzebue  Sound. 

Cinna  latifolia  Led.     Sitka. 

Agrostis  a^qnivolvis  Trin.     Sitka. 

A.  exarata  Trin.  " 

A.  geminata  Trin.     Unalashka. 

/f.  laxiflora  R.  Br.  " 

38 


593 


m 


i? 


594 


APPENDIX. 


PhUum  pratense  L.     Sitka. 

P.  alpinum  L.     Sitka.     Kotzebue. 

Ahpccnrus  alpinus  Sm.  " 

EQUISETACEvE. 

Equisctum  arvense  L.     Sitka,  northward. 

FUNGI. 

Erincum  rosetim  Schultz.     Norton  Sound. 

Several  fungi  which  in  warmer  latitudes  are  deleterious  are,  in  tlie 
northern  portions  of  Alaska,  eaten  with  impunity  (among  them  Agariais 
mutabilis,  according  to  Dr.  Kellogg). 

ALQiB. 

Alaria  esatlenta  Grev.    Arctic  and  western  coasts. 
Other  species  of  algte  are  eaten  by  both  Indians  and  Innuit,  which  I 
have  no  means  of  identifying. 


Note.  —  The  greater  part  of  the  above  list  is  extracted  from  the  Report  of  Dr.  J. 
T.  Rotlirock,  Botanist  of  tiie  Scientific  Corps  of  the  Western  Union  Telegraph  Kx- 
pcdition,  Smithsonian  Report  for  1867,  pp.  433-463. 


APPENDIX   H. 

LIST  OF  WORKS  CONTAINING   INFORMATION  IN  REGARD  TO 
ALASKA  AND  THE  ADJACENT  TERRITORIES. 


AnF.LUNO. 

Clcscliichte  der  Schiffahrten  und  \'ersuchc  vvclche  zur  Entdcckung 
des  N.  O.  Weges  nach  Japan  und  China  von  verschiedcnen  Nalioncn 

Haliri'^cr"  ''"'''^'"'  ^''     ^°"  ^^'"■'''°''''  ^"'''""  -'^'''■■'""S-     4t°- 

Alaska  Hkralh,  The.     Kdited  semi-monthly  by  Agapius  Honcharen- 
ko.     ban  Prancisco,  March,  1868,  &:c. 

Aleutian    Islands,    and    their  Inhabitants.      St.  Petersburg,    1845. 
(In  Russian.)  ^         ^•' 

Akch..:oloo.a    Amkr.cana,    by  the    American    Antiquarian    Society. 
Cambridge,  October,  1836.  ^ 

Archives  of  the  Russian  Amkr.can  Company.     Published  by  the 

Directors.     St.  Petersburg,  1862. 
Atlantic  Monthly.     Boston,  June,  1867.     pp.  731  to  750. 
Bai-.k  and  Helmkrsen. 

Beitriige  zur  Kenntniss  des  Russischon  Reiches  und  der  anrni  izen- 
den  Lander  Asien's.     Auf  Kosten  der  Kaiserlichen  Al<ad.  derV .ssen- 
scha  ten,  herausgegeben  von  K.  K.  von  Baer  und  Gr.  von  Mehnersen 
St.  Petersburg,  1839. 

Baranoff. 

Biography   of  Alexander   Andr^avich    Baranoff.      St.   Petersburg 
1835.     (In  Russian.)  "' 

Harrow. 

Chronological   History  of  Voyages  into  the  Arctic   Regions.     By 
John  Barrow,  V.  R.  S.,  isic.     London,  18 18.  ^ 

BtECHEY. 

Narrative  of  the  Voyage  of  the  Blossom  to  the  Pacific  and  Behring 
Straits.     By  Captain  F.  W.  Beechey.     London,  183 1. 
Bei.cher. 

Narrative  of  the  Voyage  of  H.  M.  S.  Sulphur  dtiring  the  years 
1836-1842.     By  Captam  Sir  Kdward  Belcher.     London,  1843. 


596 


APPENDIX. 


Belmn. 

Remarques  sur  le  Carte  de  TAmdrique  Septentrionale.     Par  M. 
Bellin.     Paris,  1754. 
Benyowski. 

Memoirs  and  Travels  of  Maurice  Augustus,  Count  de  Benyowski. 
Written  by  iiimself.     London,  1790. 

Bercih. 

History  and  Chronology  of  the  Discovery  of  the  Aleutian  Islands 
and  of  the  Russian  Fur  Trade.  By  Vasili  Bergh.  St.  Petersburg, 
1823.     (In  Russian.) 

The  first  Voyages  undertaken  by  Russians  to  discover  the  Separation 
of  Asia  and  America.  By  Vasili  Bergh.  St.  Petersburg,  1858.  (Ip 
Russian.) 

Blaschke. 

Topographia    medica,    Portus     Novo    Archangelensis.      By    Dr. 
Blaschke,  Surgeon  to  the  Russian  Am«.ican  Company.    St.  Peters- 
burg, 1842. 
Brduohton. 

Voyage  of  Discovery  to  the  North  Pacific  Ocean  and  Round  the 
World.     By  William  R.  Broughton.     London,  1804.    Two  volumes, 
4to,  with  Atlas. 
Buchanan. 

Sketches  of  the  History,  Manners,  and  Customs  of  the  North- 
American  Indians.    By  James  Buchanan.     London,  1824.     8vo. 

Bueschixc. 

Nachricht  v.  d.  Russ.  Entd.  zwischen  Asien  und  Europa,  &c.,  aus 
dem  St.  Petershurgcr  Hist.  Geogr.  Kalender  fiir  das  Jahre  1781,  iiber- 
setzt  V.  Consistorialrath  Hase.  And  also,  Mag.  f  die  neue  Hist,  und 
Geogr.  Vcl.  XVI.  Halle,  1782.  4to.  pp.  235-286.  Von  Dr. 
Anton  Friedrich  Biisching. 

BURNEV. 

A  Chronological  History  of  Northeastern  Voyages  of  Discovery, 
and  of  the  early  F.astern  Navigations  of  the  Russians.  By  Captain 
James  Burney,  F.  R.  S.     London,  18 19. 

BUSCHMANN. 

Die  Sprache  der  Koloschen,  in  Abhandlungen  der  Konigl.  Ak.  dcr 
Wissenschaften  zu  Berlin,     pp.  376-432.     Berlin,  1856. 

Campbell. 

Voyage  Round  the  World,  &:c.,  from  1808- 1812.  By  Archibald 
Campbell.     Edinburgh,  1816.     8vo. 


LIST  OF  WORKS   IN   REGARD  TO  ALASKA 


597 


Chamisso. 

Rc'ise  um  die  Welt  mit  der  Romanzoffischen  Entdeckungs  Expedi- 
tion in  den  Jahren  1815-1818,  auf  der  Urig  Rurik,  Capt.  Otto  von 
Kotzebue.     By  Adalbert  von  Chamisso.     Leipzig,  1836. 

C'hlebnikoff. 

Notes  on  America,  &c.  By  Alexie  ChlebnikofT.  (Sec  Materials 
for  the  History  of  the  Russian  Colonies). 

ClIORIS. 

Voyage  pittoresque  autour  du  Monde,  &c.     Folio.     Paris,  1822. 

Chramchenko.     (See  Kramchcnko.) 

Chruschoff.     (See  Krushchoff.) 

Chwostoff.    (See  Davidoff.) 

Collections  of  the  Massachusetts  Historical  Society  for  1804. 

collinson. 

Proceedings  of  Captain  CoUinson,  C.  B.,  in  H.  AL  S.  Enterprise, 
Behring  Strait  Division  of  Arctic  Search,  1851  -  1854.     (Blue  Book.) 

Cook.. 

Voyage  to  the  Pacific  Ocean  in  the  Years  1776-  1780.  By  Captain 
James  Cook.     London,  1782,  1784,  1785. 

CoxE. 

Account  of  the  Russian  Discoveries  between  Asia  and  America. 
London,  1780.     By  Rev.  William  Coxe.     London,  1787. 

Also  by  the  same,  A  Comparative  View  of  the  Russian  Discoveries 
with  those  of  Captains  Cook  and  Clerke. 

Dall. 

Die  Telegraphen-Expedition  auf  dem  Jukon  in  Alaska.  Mit  Karte. 
N.  19.  By  W.  H.  Dall.  Petcrmann's  Geographische  Mitthcilungen. 
1869.     Heft  X.     Gotha.    Justus  Perthes. 

Remarks,  &c.  Boston  Society  of  Natural  History,  Proceedings, 
Vol.  X.     November  4,  1868.     Vol.  XL     1869. 

Note  on  the  Geology  of  Alaska.  Silliman's  American  Journal  of 
Science  and  Arts.    January,  1868. 

Remarks,  October,  1868.  Proceedings  California  Academy  of 
Sciences.     (F>rors  of  reporter  excepted.) 

Observations  on  the  Aurora  Borealis,  read  before  the  National 
Academy  of  Sciences,  Northampton,  September,  1869. 

Note  on  the  Trend  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  north  oi'  Latitude  60°, 
and  its  Influence  on  Faunal  Distribution  ;  and 

On  the  Distribution  of  the  Aborigines  of  Alaska  and  adjacent  Ter- 


598 


APPENDIX. 


ritorics.      American   Association  for  the  Advancement   of   Scienct-. 
Read  before  the  Salem  Meeting,  August  20,  1869,  !)y  W.  H.  Dall. 

Report,  by  W.  H.  Dall,  on  the  Agricultural  Resources  of  Alask.i, 
(in)  Report  of  United  States  Commissioner  of  Agriculture  for  i86>S. 
Washington,  1869. 

Observations  on  the  (leology  of  Alaska  (in  the  Coast  Pilot  of 
Alaska.     Sec  Davidson).     Washington,  1869. 

First  Day  on  the  Yukon.      (In  Old  and   New.)     Boston,    1870. 
pp.  44-4/- 
Dam,  ANf)  Hannister. 

List  of  the  Birds  of  Alaska,  with  Notes  on  their  Habits  and  Distri- 
bution. By  W.  H.  Dall  and  H.  M.  Bannister,  A.M.  Transactions  of 
the  Chicago  Academy  of  Sciences,  1869. 

Davidokk. 

Reise  der  Russischen  Kaiserlichen  Flott-officiere,  Khwostow  und 
Dawidow,  von  St.  Petersburg  (lurch  Sibirien  nach  Amerika  und  /ii 
riick,  in  den  Jahren  1802,  1803,  1804.  Bcschr.  von  Dawidow,  uiui 
aus  clem  Russischen  iibcrsctzt  von  Dr.  Karl  Joh.  Schultze.  Berlin, 
1816. 

Davidson. 

Coast  Pilot  of  Alaska.    (First  Part.)    Southern  Boundary  to  Cook's 
Inlet.     By  (leorge  Davidson,  Assistant  United  States  Coast  Survey. 
Octavo,     (lovernment    Printing '  Office,   Washington,    D.  C,    1869. 
(Published  by  the  Coast  Survey). 
Dklisi.e  dk  la  CrovMre. 

Explication  de  la  Carte  des  nouvellcs  Ddcouvertes  an  Nord,  I've. 
par  Ph.  Buaclie.  Par  Joseph  Nicholas  Delisle  de  la  Croyl-re.  Paris, 
1752.     4to. 

De  Mofras.     \'oyage  Around  the  World  in  1841  -  1842.     By  Dullot  dc 

Mofras.     Paris,  1845. 
Den  vs. 

Les  Californies,  I'Oregon,  et  les  Possessions  Russes  en  rAmdriquo, 

les  iles  Nouika  et  de  la  Reinc  Charlotte.     Par  M.  Ferdinand  Dcnys 

(in  L'Univers).     Paris,  1849. 

Directory  for  Bkiiring's  Sea  and  the  Coast  of  Alaska. 

From  Findlay's  Directory  of  the  Pacific  Ocean,  &c.  United  States 
Bureau  of  Navigation.  Government  Printing  Office,  Washington. 
1869.     8vo. 

Dixon. 

Voyage  Round  the  World,  but  more  particularly  to  the  Northwest 


LIST  OF  WORKS   IN   REGARD  TO   ALASKA. 


599 


Science. 
1.  Dall. 
)!"  .Mask.i, 

for  I  SOS. 

I  Pilot  of 
on,    1870. 


ind  Distri- 
sactions  of 


ostow  uiid 
La  und  /11 
kUlow,  und 
c.     Berlin, 


r  to  Cook's 

ist  Survey. 

C,    1869. 


Nord,  kc. 
re.     I'aris, 

Dullot  lie 


Xmeriquc, 
md  Denys 


ited  States 
ashington, 


Northwest 


Coast  of    North    America.      Uy   Captains   Nathaniel    I'ortlock    and 
(leor^e  Dixon.     London,  lySy. 

DOROSCIIIN. 

lleobachtungen  und  Ilemerkungcn  iiber  das  Clohl-vorkommen  in 
der  Hesit/ung  der  Russ.  ,\m.  Com.  nach  dem  Russischen  des  Herrn 
I'reimann,  iVc.  (Krman's  Archives,  Vol.  XXV.  pp.  229-237.)  Hy 
I*.  Doroschin. 

DovK. 

I'eber  die  Warmc-Abnahme  in  hohcrcn  Hreitcn.     Zcitschr.  (.  .\11- 
gcm.  Krdkunile,  p.  336.     Von  Herr  Prof.  Dove.     Berlin,  1860. 
Dunn. 

History  of  the  Oregon  Territory  and  British  North  .American  Fur 
Trade,  iVc.     By  John  Dunn.     London,  1844. 
Du   I'kiit  TUOITARS. 

Voyage  of  the  French  Frigate  Venus.  By  M.  Du  Petit  Thouars. 
Paris,  1 83  7. 

Enuei.hardt. 

Kussische  Mfi.ccllen.     St.  Petersburg.     Vol.  I.  pp.  28 -69.     8vo. 

Krman. 

Beitriige  zur  Klimatologie  des  Russischen  Reiches.  Erster  ,\b- 
schnitt.  Vol.  I.  p.  562,  in  Archiv  fiir  Wissen.  Kunde  von  Russland. 
Her.  von  Adolph  Krman.  Berlin.  8vo.  .Also  in  the  same,  Vol.  VI. 
p.  499  et  seq.  Vol.  VII.  ;  pp.  467-480,  iiiid. ;  pp.  480-512,  p.  613 
et  seq.,  ibid.     (On  Zagoskin's  Kxpedition,  &c.) 

FSI'INOSA. 

Memorias  sobre  las  Obscrvaciones  astronomicas,  &:c.,  por  los  navi- 
gantes  Kspanoles,  iVc,  orderadas  par  Don  Josef  Fspinosa  y  Telio. 
Madrid,  1809.     Two  volumes.    4to. 

Fkdis. 
L'Orcgon  et  les  Cotes  de  I'Ocean  Pacifique  du  Nord.     Paris,  1848. 

FlNDI.AV. 

Directory  for  the  Navigation  of  the  Pacific  Ocean.  By  A.  (1.  Find- 
lay.     London,  1851. 

Fischer. 

Siberische  CJeschichte  von  den  Enldeckungen  Sibcrien's,  &:c.  Books 
III.  and  IV.     St.  Petersburg,  1768.     8vo. 

Fleurieu. 

Voyage  autour  du  Monde  pendent  les  Anndes  1790-  1792.  Par  E. 
Marchand ;   prtJccde  d'une  Introduction  historique,  avec  Cartes   et 


6oo 


AIM'ENUIX. 


Kigurcs.      Taris,  Ian  dc   Rep.  VI.  et  VIII.     Four  volumes.     410. 
K«litcd  by  C.  1*.  Claret  dc  I'leurlcu. 

I'ORSTKR. 

(Icschichton  tier  Rcisen  scil  Cook  auf  den  N.  W.  und  N.  O. 
K listen  von  Amerika.  Aus  dein  Englischen,  by  tleorg  l-'orstcr. 
Kcrhn,  1791.      i'lirce  volumes.     4to. 

History  of  the  Voyages  and  Piscoveries  made  in  the  North. 
Translated  from  the  (ierinan  of  John  Reinhold  Forster,  J.  U.  I). 
Dublin,  1786.     With  a  Map. 

Fkanki.in. 

Narrative  of  a  Second  Kxpcdilion  to  the  Shores  of  the  I'olar  Sea, 
from  1835  to  1837.     London,  1828.     4to. 

l''Kbl>KKIl'K. 

Proceedings  of  Captain  Charles  Frederick,  Commander  H.  M. 
S.  Amphitrite,  on  a  Visit  to  Behring  Straits  and  Vicinity.  1852. 
(niuc  Hook.) 

Freimann. 

Uemerkungcn  iiber  cine  Reisc  von  Sitcha  durch  die  Besitzunge?'  '' 
H.  H.  Co.,  nath  deni  Russischen  des  Herrn   Freimann.     (Erman's 
Archives,  Vol.  VI.,  pp.  226-340. 

FREV(!AM0. 

Report  to  the  Naval  Bureau.  By  A.  Frcygang,  captain  of  the  2d 
rank.     St.  Petersburg,  1868.     Official  Document. 

(iMEt.IN. 

Reise  durch  Sibcrien.  By  Dr.  Johann  Georg  Gmclin.  Gottingeii, 
1767. 

Gol.dKMN. 

'i'ravels  Round  the  World.  (Russian.)  By  Basil  Michaclovicli 
Cioldfnin.     St.  Petersburg,  1822. 

Goi.ov{n. 

Review  of  the  Russian  American  Colonies  in  1861.  By  Paulas 
Nikolai-evich  Golovfn.     Morski  Sbornik,  1863. 

GOVORI.IFKI. 

Report  of  G.  Govorlifkt,  M.  D.,  for  i860.  Diary  of  the  Depart 
ment  of  the  Interior,  Division  2,  Book  I.     St.  Petersburg,  1861. 

(iREENIloW. 

Memoir,  Historical  and  Political,  on  the  Northwest  Coast  of  North 
.\merica  and  the  Adjacent  Territories.  By  Robert  Grecnhow. 
(Senate  Document,  174.)     Washington,  1840. 


LIST  OF   WORKS   IN   REGARD  TO  ALASKA. 


601 


4to. 


History  of  Oregon  and  California  and  the  otlier  Tcrritorios  on  the 
Northwest  Coast  of  North  America.  Hy  Robert  (Ircenhow.  Second 
edition.     iJoston,  1845. 

(IKKWINCK. 

Beitriige  zur  Kenntniss  der  orographischen  und  geognostischen 
HeschatYenheit  der  Nordwest-Kuste  Amerikas  niit  den  anliegenden 
Insehi.  Von  Dr.  C.  (Irewingk.  (\Viti»  live  Maps.)  St.  Petersburg, 
1850.     Svo. 

Haki'Kr's  NLvcazine.    July,  1867,  pp.  170-185.     Also  the  same,  Vol- 
ume XXXVIIL,  1869,  p.  589. 

Hariwk;. 

The  I'olar  World  ;  .\rctlc  and  Antarctic  Regions.  By  Dr.  John 
Harlwig.     London,  i86y,  and  N<'<v  Vork,  1S69. 

ILvwAilAN  Si-KcrAToR.     1838  to  J S.io.     Tubli-shed  at  Honolulu,  Sand- 
wich Islands. 

HoKMAN.N. 

(icognostische  Beobachtungcn,  g  samuiclt  auf  cincr  Reise  um  die 
Welt.     (By)  K.  Hofmann.     Berli  i,  (Szy.     Svo. 

Hol.MIIKRC. 

Ethnographischc  Skizzei.  ui)er  Volker  des  Russischen  Ainerika. 
Von  H.  J.  Holmbcrg.     Helbingfors,  1855. 

Hooi'KR. 

Ten  Months  among  the  Tents  of  the  Tiiski,  with  Incidents  of  an 
Arctic  Boat  Kxpedition  in  Search  of  Sir  John  Franklin,  as  far  Kast  as 
the  Mackenzie  River  and  Cape  Bathuist.  By  Lieutenant  W.  11. 
Hooper,  R.  N.     (With  a  Map.)     London,  1853. 

Hi  MHOI.DT. 

Kssai  politique  sur  le  Royaume  de  la  Nouvelle  Kspagne.     Par  Alex- 
ander  von    Humboldt   et    Aime    Bonpland.     Part  HI.     Paris,  181 1. 
4to.     pp.  328-350. 
Importations  ok  rm:  Hudson's  Bav  Company. 

Published  by  the  Directors  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company.  Lon 
don,  1844. 

IwAi.in  Reuski,  No.  266.     St.  Petersburg,  1S22.     (Russian.) 
Janokfski. 

Articles  in  the  Russian  Journal   Si'/i   Ofcc/ush'd,  for    1820- 1821, 
1S39,  and  1845.     By  Lieutenant  Janoffski. 
JoLRNAi,  OKS  Savan:.-;.     Paris,  1817.     (Contains  documents  relating  to 
the  life  of  Baranoff.) 


'1 1 


602 


APPENDIX. 


Journal  of  the  Department  of  the  Interior. 

Contains  the  Annual  Reports  of  the  Russian  American  Company. 
Official  Documents.     1790?  to  1862.    St.  Petersburg.     (Russian.) 

Kashevaroff. 

Note  from  A.  P.  Kashevdroff,  in  Morskoi  Sbontik,  April  and  Sep- 
tember, 1862.  Also,  Articles  in  the  St.  Peterslmr^ski  Vicdoma/i,  1845, 
Nos.  190,  193,  and  the  Sin  Otcchcstva,  1839  and  1845. 

KlTTLITZ. 

Vegetation  of  the  Pacific.  By  F.  H.  Von  Kittlitz.  Translated  by 
Dr.  B.  Seemann.     London,  1861. 

Travels  in  Micronesia,  Russian  America,  and  Kamchatka.  (Ger- 
mvin,  by  the  same.)     Gotha,  1858. 

KOSHKIN. 

On  the  Kolosh  Method  of  Hunting,  &c.  In  the  Journal  of  the  In- 
terior Department.    St.  Petersburg.     (Russian.) 

Kostlitzeff. 

Notes  on  the  Koloshes.     In  the  same.     (Russian.) 

KoTZEnUE. 

Voyage  of  Discovery  into  the  South  Sea  and  Rchring  Straits,  for  the 
Purpose  of  Exploring  a  Northeast  Passage,  in  1815  -  1818.  By  Lieu- 
tenant Otto  von  Kotzebue.    Translated  by  H.  F',.  Lloyd.    London,  1821. 

Voyage  of  the  Brig  Rurik  in  the  Years  1815  -  1818.  By  Otto  von 
Kotzebue.     (German.)     Weimar,  182 1. 

New  Voyage  Round  the  World,  in  the  Years  1823  -  1826.  By  Otto 
von  Kotzebue.     London,  1830. 

Kramchenko. 

Bruchstiicke  aus  dem  Reise-Journal  des  Herrn  Kramchenko,  &c. 
(in  Krusenstern,  Mem.  Hydr.,  1827,  p.  108,  and  1835,  p.  98). 

Krashininikoff. 

History  of  Kamchatka  and  the  Kurilski  Islands.    By  Steven  Krash- 
ininikoff.    Translated  by  Greve.     Glocester,  1764. 
Krenitzin.    (See  Coxe,  Appendix,  and  Pallas,  Beitriige,  Vol.  I.  pp.  .'4')- 

272.) 
Kruschoff. 

Voyage  of  the  Sloop-of-War  Apollo  in  1821.     (See  Journal  of  the 
Navy  Department.     St.  Petersburg.     1847.     Russian.) 
Krusenstern. 

Hydrographic  Memoirs  and  Charts  of  the  Nortn  Pacific.  Published 
at  Leipsic,  1819.     St.  Petersburg,  1824,  1827,  and  1835. 


Company, 
ssian.) 

and  Sep- 
naii,  1845, 


islated  by 
ka.     (Ger- 

of  the  In- 


lits,  for  the 
l]y  Lieu- 
don,  1821. 
}  Otto  von 

By  Otto 


lenko,  &c, 
/en  Krash- 

:.  pp.  .'40- 

■nal  of  the 


LIST  OF  WORKS   IN   REGARD   TO  ALASKA.  603 

Voyage  to  the  Russian  American  Colonies,    ,803  to   1806      IV 
Admiral  \  on  Krusenstern.     St.  Petersburg,  1812. 

KUPFFKR. 

Observations  Meteorologique.  faites  .1   I'Academie  Imperiale  des 
Sciences.     %  A.  T.  Kupffer.     St.  Petersburg,  ,836.     410. 
Langsdorf. 

Voyages   and  Travels.   1803  to   ,807.      By  C.   H.  v.  Langsdorf. 
Liondon,  1813.  ° 

Bemerkungen  auf  einer  Rcise  urn  die  Welt  in  den  Jahren   ,So,- 
1807.     Hcrr  von  Langsdorf.     Frankfort,  1812. 
La  Perouse. 

Voyage  Round  the  World.     By  Jean  Pranyois  de  Galloup  de  La 
Perouse.    London,  1799.  ^ 

La  Place. 

Ca,npagne  de  Circumnavigation  ,1c  la  Frc'sate  I/Artcmis,  pnulan, 

1  arts,  1054.     (Six  Parts.) 
Lasareff. 

Voyage  of  the  Sloop-of  War  Ladoga,  1822  -  ,824.     By  Captain  M 
P.  Lasareff.     St.  Petersburg,  1832. 

Ledrun. 

Abrego   de   tous   les  Voyages   au   Pole  Nord.     Par  M.  Lcbrun 
Paris,  1 8-? 

Lenz. 

m 

Ueber  die  Fluthwasser  auf  Sitcha.     (Erman's  Archives,  Vol.  Ill 
p.  361.)     Von  E.  Lenz. 

Lesseps. 

Journal  historique  du  Voyage  de  M.  de  Lesseps.    Paris,  1790.    8vo. 
(See  £a  Perouse.) 

Levasheff.     (See  Coxc,  Appendix  L,  and  Pallas,  Nord.  Beitr.,  pp.  249  - 
272.) 

LiSIANSKV. 

Voyage  Round  the  World  in  the  Ship  Neva.     By  Urey  Lisiansky, 
Captain,  Russian  Navy.     London,  1814. 

LUTKl5. 

Voyage   autour  du  Monde    sur   la    Corvette   SJniavine,    dans   les 
Annies  1826  to  1829.     By  Captain  Frederic  Lutkj.     Puis,  1835. 


!!  ! 
'.  I. 
■    t 


'ill 

m 


6o4 


APPENDIX. 


Mackenzie. 

Voyages  from  Montreal  over  the  Continent  of  North  America  to 
the  Frozen  and  Pacific  Oceans,  in  the  Years  1 780  -  1 793.  By  Alex- 
ander Mackenzie.     London,  1801.     4to.     With  Maps. 

Maguire. 

Proceedings  of  Commander  Rochefort  Maguire,  commanding  H. 
M.  S.  Plover,  in  Vicinity  of  liehring  Strait.  And  further  Report  of 
Proceedings  to  August,  1853.  Also,  Proceedings  at  Moore's  Harbor, 
September,  1852,  to  August,  1853.  Also,  Proceedings  during  Second 
Winter  passed  at  Point  Barrow,  1853-54,     (Blue  Books.) 

Marchan'D.     (See  Fleurieu.) 

Materials  for  the  History  of  the  Russian  Colonies.    Four  Parts.    8vo. 
St.  Petersburg.     1861.     (Russian.) 

Mearks. 

Voyages  from  the  Northwest  Coast  of  America.  By  John  Meares, 
Esq.     London,  1790. 

Memoirs  et  Observations  Geographique  et  Critique  sur  la  Situation  des 
Pays  Septentrionaux.     Lausanne,  1765.     Anonymous. 

Moore. 

Cleneral  Proceedings  of  Commander  T.  E.  L.  Moore,  H.  M.  S. 
Plover,  through  Behring  Strait  and  towards  Mackenzie's  River,  1848- 
1849.  Also,  Proceedings  in  Vicinity  of  Behring  Strait,  in  the  Winter 
of  185 1 -5-'. 

Proceedings  of  Commander  T.  E. 
September,  1849,  to  September,  1850. 

MuELi.r.R. 

Voyages  from  Asia  to  America,  &c. 
London,  1761  and  1764. 

Northwesterx  American'  BorxDARv. 

With  ^L'lps,  ivrc.     London,  181 7.     8vo. 

Official  Documents. 

Report  of  the  Senate  Committee  on  the  Russian  American  Colo- 
nies, Othcial.     St.  Petersburg,  1863.     (In  Russian.) 

Pallas. 

Nordische  Beitriige  zur  physikalischen  und  geographischen  Erd- 
und  Volkerbeschreibung,  Xaturgeschichtc,  und  (Ekonomie.  By  I'r. 
P.  S.  Pallas.     Leipzig,  1781. 

Neue  Nordische  Beitriige.  (See  also  Appendix  to  Pennant's  Arctic 
Zoology.) 


L.  Moore,  H.  M.  S.  Plover, 
(Blue  Books.) 

By  Gerhard  Friedrich  Miiller. 


LIST  OF  WORKS   IN   REGARD  TO   ALASKA. 


605 


Pamiatnik  tradoff  provoslavnich  blahoviestniskoff,  &c.     (Memoirs   of 
the  Orthodox  Missionaries.)     Moscow,  1852. 

Pauly. 

Description  Ethnographique  des  Peiiples  de  la  Russie.  Par  ^L  T. 
de  Pauly.  Publice  h  I'Occasion  du  Jubile  mille'naire  de  I'Empire  de 
Russie.     St.  Petersburg,  1862.     Folio.     (Astor  Library.) 

Petermaxn. 

Notes  on  the  Telegraph  Explorations  in  Alaska.  T5y  Dr.  A.  Peter- 
mann,  LL.  D.,  Geographer.  Mittheil.  October,  1869.  Gotha.  (Also 
same  for  1866). 

Phipps. 

Voyage  toward  the  North  Pole.  By  Constantine  John  Phipps 
(Lord  Mulgrave).     London,  1774. 

Pleshneff. 

Survey  of  the  Russian  Empire.  Translated  by  Smirnove.  London, 
1792. 

PORTLOCK, 

Voyage  Round  the  World,  &c.,  performed  in  1785 -1788.  By 
Captain  Nathaniel  Portlock.     London,  1789.     (See  Di.\on.) 

Raduga. 

A  Periodical  of  Revel,  1833.     Articles  by  Kotzebue,  &c. 

Reports  of  the  Russian  American  Company.     Published  annually  (in 
Russian)  at  Sitka  and  St.  Petersburg. 

Richardsov. 

The  Polar  Regions.  By  Sir  John  Richardson,  LL.  D.  Edinburgh, 
1861. 

ROUERTSON. 

Our  Right  and  Title  to  Oregon.  By  Rev.  Dr.  Robertson.  Wash- 
ington, 1846. 

History  of  America.     By  Rev.  Dr.  Robertson.     New  York,  1856. 

ROCQUEFEUIL. 

Journal  d'un  Voyage  autour  du  Monde  pendent  les  Annees  1816- 
1819.  By  Camille  de  Rocquefeuil.  Paris,  1823.  Jena,  18:13. 
8vo. 


Ro^ 


ss. 


Narrative  uf  a  Second  Voyage  in  Search  of  a  Nortlnvest  Passage, 
&c.     By  Captain  John  Ross.     London,  1835.     410.     Three  volumes. 

Notes  on  the  T'nneh  or  Chippewyan  Indians  of  British  and  Rus 
sian  America.     By  Messrs.  Ross,  Hardisty,  and  Jones.     Communi- 


6o6 


APPENDIX. 


•;i 


cated  by  Georp;e  Gibbs.     Report  of  Smithsonian  Institution  for  1866. 
Washington,  D.  C. 

RusCHKN'IlKRdKR. 

Voyage  Around  the  World.     Philadelphia,  1838. 

Sankt  I'etkrrl'rcski  Vikdomati. 

St.  Petersburg  News,  for  the  Year  1845.    (See  Kashei'droff.') 

Sarychkkk  (davrila). 

Achtjahrige  Keise  im  N.  O.  Siberien,  &c.,  iibersetzt  von  Johann 
Hi'inrich  Uusse,  niit  Kupft.     Leipzig,  1805- 1806.     8vo. 

Saur. 

An  Account  of  a  Geographical  and  Astronomical  Expedition  to 
the  Northern  Parts  of  Russia,  by  Commodore  Joseph  Hillings,  in  the 
Years  1785 -1794.  l>y  Martin  Saur,  Secretary  to  the  Expedition. 
London,  1802. 

.ScHKMEi.iN.     Diary  of  the  First  Russian  Circumuavigation  of  the  World. 
By  F.   Schemelin.     In  Two   Parts.     (Russian.)     St.    Petersburg, 
1816-1818. 

Slhi.okzkr. 

Neue  Nachrichten  von  den  neuentdeckten  Inseln  in  der  See  zwi- 
schen  Asien  und  Amerika,  &c.  Von  J.  L.  S.  Schloezcr.  Hamburg 
und  Leipzig,  1776.     8vo. 

ScoRKsnv. 

Account  of  the  Arctic  Regions,  and  History  and  Description  of  the 
Northern  \\hale  Fishery.     By  W.  Scoresby,  Jr.     Edinburgh,  1820. 

Skkmann. 

Narrative  of  the  Voyage  of  H.  M.  S.  Herald,  1845-1851.  Dy 
Dr.  Berthold  Seemann.     London,  1853. 

Seward. 

S[)eeches  of  Hon.  William  H.  Seward  in  Alaska,  Vancouver's,  and 
Oregon.     August,  1869.     Washington,  pamph.,  1869.     8vo. 

ShaiiklsaY. 

Voyage  aux  Colonies  Russes  dc  I'Amerique  pendent  les  Annex's 
182 1  -  1823.     Par  Achille  Shabelsky.     St.  Petersburg,  1826. 

Shei-Ikofk. 

Gregorie  ShelikoflTs  erste  und  zweite  Reise  von  Ochotsk  in  Siberien 
durch  den  ostlichen  Ocean  nach  den  Kiisten  von  Amerika,  in  den 
Jahren  17S3  - 1789,  aus  dem  Russischen  iibersetzt  von  J.  J.  Logan. 
St.  Petersburg.     1793.     8vo. 


LIST  OF  WORKS    IN   REGARD  TO  ALASKA. 


607 


for  1866. 


f) 

n  Johann 

edition  to 
gs,  in  the 
xpcilition. 

he  World, 
etersburg, 


•  See  zwi- 
Hamburg 


ion  of  the 
1820. 

851.  By 
ver's,  and 
s  Annecs 


Siberien 
1,  in  den 
.  Logan. 


Shili.inoi.aw. 

Narrative  of  Arctic  Discovery  from  the  Pearliest  Period  up  to  the 
Present  Time.     By  John  J.  Shillinglaw.     London,  1850. 

SlEMKNOFK. 

(leographical  and  Statistical  Dictionary.     Three  Volumes.     (Rus- 
sian.)    St.  i'etersburg,  1863 -1867. 
Simpson. 

Narrative  of  the  Discoveries  on  the  North  Coast  of  .America, 
effected  by  the  Officers  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Comi)any,  during  the 
Years  1836- 1839.     By  Thomas  Simpson,  Ksq.     London,  1843. 

Narrative  of  a  Voyage  .\round  the  World  during  the  Years  !84i  - 
1842.  By  Sir  (leorge  Simpson,  Governor  of  the  Hudson  Bay  Terri- 
tory.    London,  1847. 

SOKOI-OFF. 

Narrative  of  Chirikoff's  \'oy.ige.     (Russian.)     By  Captain-Lieuten- 
ant A.  P.  Sokoloff.     St.  Petersburg,  1849, 
Staehli.v. 

Account  of  the  New  Northern  Archipelago,  lately  discovered  by 
the  Russians.  By  M.  J.  von  Staehlin.  London,  1774.  (Translated 
from  the  German.) 

Steli.kr. 

Beschreibung  von  dem  Lande  Kamchatka,  &c.  By  Georg  Wilhclm 
Steller.     Frankfurt  und  Leipzig,  1744. 

Beschreibung  der  See-reise  von  Kamtschatka  nach  Amerika.  Georg 
Wilhelm  Steller.     Frankfurt,  1774. 

SrRAHI.EN'ltERC. 

Description  Historique  de  I'F.mpire  Russe.  Par  M.  Ic  Baron  de 
Strahlenberg.     Amsterdam,  1757. 

SlUCKENBERG. 

Studium  der  Geographic,  Topographic,  Ethnographic,  und  Statistik 
des  Russischen  Reiches.     Von  J.  Ch.  Stuckenberg.     St.  Petersburg, 
1849.     8vo. 
Sumner. 

Speech  of  the   Hon.  Charles  Sumner  on  the  Cession  of  Russian 
.\merica  to  the  United  States.     Washington,  1867. 
Swan. 

Three  Years'  Residence  in  Washington  Territory.     By  J.  G.  Swan. 
New  York,  1857. 
Taraikanokk. 

Schiffsbuch   iiber  cine   Fahrt  der  Russiscli-.\merikanischen  Com- 


! 


6o8 


APPENDIX. 


pagnie,  Sloop  St.  Nikolai,  unter  Befehl  des  Steuermanns  Bulaegin  an 
der  N.  VV.  Kiiste  Amerikas,  von  Timotheus  Taraikanoff,  in  S/.  Peters- 
burger  Zeitung,  1822.     X.  pp.  22-52. 

Tebenkoff. 

Hydrographic  Atlas  and  Observations.  By  Captain  Michael  Teb- 
enkoff. (Russian.)  With  forty-eight  Charts.  St.  Petersburg,  1848 
and  1852. 

TiKHMKNIEFF. 

Historical  Review  of  the  Progress  of  the  Russian  American  Com- 
pany, and  its  Operations  until  the  Present  Time.  By  P.  TikhmeniclT. 
Two  Volumes.     October.     St.  Petersburg,  1861.     (Russian.) 

United  States  Executive  Documents. 

House,  No.  177,  Parts  I.  and  H.,  1868.  Correspondence  on  the 
Alaska  Purchase.  Communicated  by  the  President  of  the  United 
States. 

House,  129,  1870.  Letter  from  the  Secretary  of  the  Treasury  on 
the  Fur  Seal  Fisheries. 

House,  136,  1870.  Letter  and  Report  of  F.  N.  Wicker,  Treasury 
Agent  in  Alaska. 

House,  144,  1870.  Report  of  Vincent  Colyer,  Secretary  Board  of 
Indian  Commissioners,  on  Alaska. 

House,  112,  1870.  Report  of  Captain  C.  W.  Raymond,  U.  S.  A., 
on  the  Position  of  F^ort  Yukon,  Hudson's  Bay  Company  ;  &c. 

Senate,  32,  1870.  Reports  of  Captain  Charles  Bryant  and  H.  E. 
Mclntire,  Treasury  Agents  in  Alaska. 

USTINCIOFF. 

Hydrographic  Explorations  in  Russian  American  Company's  Annual 
Reports. 

Vancouver. 

Voyage  to  the  North  Pacific  Ocean.  By  George  Vancouver.  Lon- 
don, 1801. 

Voyage  of  Discovery  to  the  North  Pacific  Ocean,  &:c.,  in  the  Years 
1790- 1792.     By  Capt.  George  Vancouver.     London,  1798. 

Veniaminoff. 

Notes  on  the  Unalashka  District.  By  Father  Innocentius  Ve- 
niamfnoff.     St.  Petersburg,  1840.     (Russian.) 

VSEVOLOJSKV. 

Dictionnaire  geographique  et  historique  de  I'Empire  de  Russie, 
Par  M.  U.  S.  Vsevolojsky.     Moscow,  1823. 


LIST  OF  WORKS    FN    REGARD  TO  ALASKA.  605 

Wappaen's. 

Handbuch  der  Geographic  und  Statistik  von  Nord  Amcrika,  Vol.  I. 
By  Dr.  J.  E.  Wappaens.     pp.  293  to  294. 
Wheildon. 

The  New  Arctic  Continent,  or  Wrangell's  Land,  \:c.  I5y  i.V.  \V 
Wheildon.  Proceedings  of  the  American  Association  for  the  Ad- 
vancement of  Science.    Vol.  xvn.    1868. 

WUVMPER. 

Travel  and  Adventure  in  the  Territory  of  Alaska,  and  in  various 
other  Parts  of  the  North  Pacific.     By  Frederick  Whvmper.     London 
1868.  '  ' 

A  Journey  from  Norton  Sound,  Bering  Sea,  to  Fort  Yukon.     By 
Frederick  Whymper.     (With  a  Map.)     Journal  of  the  Geographical 
Society  of  London,  1868. 
Wilkes. 

Narrative  of  the  United  States  Exploring  Expedition  during  the 
Years    1838-1842.      By   Charles   Wilkes,   Captain    United    States 
Navy.     Philadelphia,  1844.     Vol.  IV. 
\\'rangell. 

Statistische  und  ethnographische  Nachrichten  uber  die  Russischen 
Besitzungen,  an  der  Nordwest  Kiiste  von  Amcrika.  Auf  Kosten  der 
Kaiserlichen  Akademie  der  Wissenschaften,  c\:c.,  &c.  Von  Count 
Admiral  Ferdinand  von  Wrangell.  St.  Petersburg,  1S39.  (Edited  by 
Baer  and  Helniersen,  which  see). 
Vermoloff. 

Vrticle  in  the  Nouvelle  Annales  dcs  Voyages.     By  AL  Yer'moloft- 
Pari.s,  1846. 

Zagoskin. 

Travels  on  Foot,  and  Description  of  the  Russian  Possessions  in 
America,  from  1842  -  1844.  By  Lieutenant  L.  Zagdski.i.  St.  J'eters- 
burg.     1847.     (Russian.) 

Also  in  German,  in  Erman's  Archiv  fur  wissenschaftl-che  Kunde  von 
Russland.     Vols.  \T  and  VII. 

Zapeeski  Admiralskavo  Departamevta. 

Journal  of  the  Naval  Bureau  of  the  Russian  Government.     Vol.  V 
pp.  219-227.     1844,1845.     St.  Petersburg. 


i] 


39 


INDEX. 


Abnsa,  Major  S.,  sails  for  the  Amoor,  356. 
Abba-lo-tcna  tribe,  421;. 
Abenaki,  language  of  the,  531. 
Aberfoyle,  in  Scotland,  444. 
Abo,  the  transport,  340. 

Aboriginal  inhabitants  of  Alaska,  373-432  ;  ques- 
tions of  origin,  374. 
Acapiilco,  394. 
Acheto-tena  tribe,  49J. 
Achetotinneb  tribe,  106. 
Adakh  Island,  247,  260  ;  hot  springs,  473. 
Adakh  volcano,  4(16. 
Adams,  the  pioneer,  34. 
Adams,  K.,  surgeon,  52,  344,  345. 
Adams,  (leorge  R.,  240. 
Admiralty  Islands,  250,  471  ;  coal  on,  474. 
Admiralty  liay,  257. 
Admiralty  Inlet,  314 ;  explored,  318. 
Afognak  Island,  24S,  259. 
Agattu  Island,  247. 
Agricultural  College  of  Pennsylvania  referred  to, 

Agricnltural  Resources  of  Alaska,  433-456. 

Agulmnts,  tribe  of,  40&. 

Agunalaska,  530. 

Ah-gish-an-akhou,  an  Indian  deity,  424. 

Ah-tena  Indians,  429. 

Aian,  341,  522. 

Ainos,  ^23  ;  different  tribes  of,  525,  526. 

Alton's  treatise  ;  referred  to,  434. 

Ajax,  the  ship,  333. 

Aklinn  Island,  24S,  2'>o,  469-472;  coal  in,  474, 
47S. 

Akutan  Island,  248;  peak,  289;  volcano,  467,  470, 
471 ;  hot  springs,  472,  47S. 

Al-ak-shak,  early  name  of  Alaska,  529,  530. 

Alai  volcano,  289. 

Alasica,  value  to  the  United  States,  242 ;  geog- 
raphy, history,  and  resources.  Part  II.,  243- 
526;  boundaries,  245;  treaty  of  cession,  245; 
ceded  to  Uuited  States,  259;  river  system,  270- 
289;  area  of,  2<)o;  inhabitants  of,  373-432;  lan- 
'^uages  in,  377 ;  Innuit  in,  401 ;  climate  and 
aj;ricultural  resources,  433 -45f);  compared  with 


Scotland,  444  -  448  ;  timber,  453  ;  geology  and 
mineral  resources,  457-480  ;  hot  springs  in,  472- 
474;  coal,  473-475;  gold.  47^  477;  ice-,  47): 
fisheries  and  fur  trade,  481  -505;  adjacent  terri- 
tories and  inhabitants,  506  -  526 ;  origin  of  name, 
529 ;  early  name,  530 ;  population,  537,  and  see 
Appendix  for  miscellaneous  tables,  inamninlia, 
575;  fishes,  578;  birds,  579;  insects,  586;  nuc- 
turiial  lepidoptera,  586;  hymcnoptera,  5S6  ;  iieu- 
roptera,  587 ;  indigenous  plants,  588 ;  grasses, 
591 ;  authorities  cited,  594. 

Alaskan  mountains,  286. 

Alaskan  range,  101. 

Alaganik  village,  272, 

Al-ay-ek-sa,  early  name  of  Alaska,  529,  530. 

Albatross,  ship,  arrives  at  Sandwich  Islands,  328. 

Aleut,  the  stoop,  340. 

Aleuts,  the,  civilization  of,  115,  334,  339,  350,  ^5.^; 
descrip:lon  of,  374  ;  origin  of,  376 ;  char.icterislics 
of.  385-400:  seal-catching,  485-495. 

Aleutian  Islands,  240,  346;  area  of,  290;  explcir.l- 
tions  in,  313-320;  trees  planted,  323,  330,  31-', 
443-450,  459;  fish  in  archipelago,  481  et  si</., 
488;  origin  of  name,  530. 

Alekn.agak  River,  273. 

Alexander  Archipelago,  246,  247,  250 ;  area  of,  2i;o ; 
explored,  319,  334,  337,  353,  450,  454,  455,  4'.,;, 

470.  477- 

Alexander,  Fort,  452. 

Alexander  I.,  Kmperor,  327. 

Alexander  Nevski,  the  ship,  320;  wreck  of,  328. 

Alexieff,  Feodot,  295. 

Aliaska  Peninsula,  289  ;  north  coast  of,  335  ;  smitli 
co.ist  of,  336,  33S;  geology  of,  458  ft  si(/. :  vol- 
canoes in,  4^7  et  scg.  ;  origin  of  name,  530 ;  dis- 
tinguishes from  the  mainland,  530. 

AlikofTs  barrabora,  42. 

Alsekh  River,  271. 

Amngat  Island,  hot  springs  in,  47a. 

Amak  Island,  260,  466,  468,  470. 

Amber  in  Alaska,  476. 

Amber  Hay,  476. 

Amchitka  Island,  247,  260,  289,471;  coal  in,  474. 
478. 

America,  the  transport,  336. 

American  traders  at  Kadiak,  310. 


INDEX. 


6ll 


Amilka,  17,  36. 

Amiia  Island,  30,  247,  248,  360,  ')is<13<>:  school 

at,  35'.  471- 
Amoor  River,  353,  355,  516,  jiS. 
Ainphitrite,  sliip,  346. 
Amuklita,  148  ;  volcano,  467. 
Amulets  worn  by  Inilians,  141. 
Anadyr  Gulf,  J46,  2S5,  374,  ^yS,  4^.5,  570. 
Anadyr  River,  385,  H)i,  356-358,  510. 
Anadyrsk  ostrog  or  village,  533. 
Anadyrsk,  post  of,  395,  3i;8. 
Anderson,  Captain,  347. 
Andon  doiniii  tribe,  519. 
Andreatfsky,  iiy:  description  of,  239,  230,  J31. 
Andreanotfsky  Islands,  347. 
AnkudinofT,  (icrasini,  his  voyage,  295. 
Anligmuts  of  tiiilniberg,  408. 
Anniak  River,  274. 
Anthracite  coal  in  Alaska,  473-476. 
Antoine  River,  380. 
Anui  River,  514. 

Anvik  River,  217,  338,  364,  276,  283,  383. 
Apache  Indians,  428. 
Apollo,  ship,  333. 
Ap|iendix  A.    (Ilossary,  529. 

"         II.     I'opulalioii,  537. 

"        C.     Kur  trade,  53S. 

"         1).     Meteorology,  541. 

"         K.     Latitude  and  longitude,  545. 

"         K.     Vocabularies,  547. 

"         G.     Natural  history,  575. 

"         H.     Authorities  cited,  594. 
Apraxin,  Admiral,  297. 
Archangel,  291). 

Archiniandrit<iff 's  observations,  343. 
Archipelago,   Alexander,  246,  24i>,  250;   area  of, 
2.)o;  explored,  319,  334.  337.  353.  45°.  454.  455. 
4f>},  470,  477. 
Arctic  explorations,  331. 
Arguello,  Don  Luis  de,  324. 
Argyll,  statistics  of,  447. 
Ark-hannok,  129. 
Arran,  statistics  of,  447. 
Arrow  smith's  maps,  290;  errors  in,  291. 
Aryan  resemblances,  523. 
A>ia,  fossils  in,  488. 
Asiagmut,  40S. 

Astor,  John  Jacob,  his  fur  company,  32^1,  327. 
Astoria,  settlement  of,  327,  328  ;  delivered  to  United 

States,  330. 
Atahualpa,  ship,  321. 
Alka  Company,  317,  334. 

Alka  Island,  247,  260,  2S9,  333,  33f;,  336,  344,  350, 
351  ;  volcanoes,  466,  468-473  ;  coal  in,  474,  478. 
Atkan  tribe,  3S6. 
All.mlic  Cable,  success  of,  507. 
AtKissolT,  VladJuir,  his  exploratioDS,  396. 
Aina  River,  272. 
Atn.Aer  Indians,  429. 
Aitenmul  village,  384, 


Attou  Island,  346. 

Attu  Island,  247  ;  discovered  by  Bassnif,  301-336. 

Atuia  Island,  329. 

Auckland  Islands,  seal  fisheries  at,  493. 

Augustin  Island,  258,  373. 

Aurora  borealis,  59,  60. 

Authorities,  list  of,  594. 

Avatanak  Island,  348. 

Avatcha  Itay,  370,  3S5 ;  river,  285. 

Aziak  Island,  138,  36S,  313,  418. 

B. 

Back's  Arctic  expedition,  365,  331. 

liaer's  descriptions  of  Indians,  406,  594. 

Haic  de  Monte,  357. 

Baikal,  the  transport,  342  ;  lake,  51S,  531. 

Bald  Head  Mountain,  27a. 

Bald  .Mountains,  271,  388, 

Bannister,  H.  M.,  6. 

Baptist,  John,  an  inleri'reter,  115. 

Biaranotf,   /Mexander  A.,  recall  of,  304,  313,  315  ; 

director,  31S,  320,  324,  33S,  329,  467,  485,  594; 

resigns,  330:  dk-s,  331. 
Baranoff  Island,  350,  254,  256 ;  description  of,  336, 

333,  34-'.  474.  4*<5- 

Baranoff,  the  schooner,  330,  333. 

B.arber,  Captain,  321. 

Baring  Island,  345. 

Barley,  growth  of,  441. 

Barlow's  Bay,  471. 

Barnard,  Lieutenant,  his  search  for  Franklin,  48; 
attacked  by  Indians,  49-52,  344,  345. 

Barono-wolokolT,  death  of,  328. 

Barren  Island,  258. 

Barrow,  Sir  John,  his  narrative,  594. 

Barrow,  I'uint,  401  :  tribe  of  Innuit  at,  410. 

Bassarguine,  Commander,  explores  the  Stikine 
River,  271. 

Bassoff,  Kinilian,  discovers  Attu  Island,  301. 

Biithing,  description  of,  30-31. 

Be.ar  hunting,  133. 

Bear  Island,  249. 

Beaufort,  Cape,  457,  474. 

Beaver,  the  ship,  327,  328. 

Beaver  hunting,  213. 

Beaver  Island,  473. 

Beaver  Lake,  39,  169,  1N6. 

BecherelT  explores  peninsula  of  Aliaska,  313. 

Beds,  Russian,  description  of,  9. 

Beechey,  Captain  K.  W.,  594. 

Beechey  Island,  347. 

Belcher,  Sir  Edward,  his  description  of  Ross  Set- 
tlement, 332.  3tS,  4S1.  595. 

Belkofsky  settlenv   it,  2'k>. 

Bellin,  M.,  594. 

Bellingham  Bay,  475. 

Bellingshausen,  the  explorer,  331. 

Bendeleben,  Baron  Otto  de,  292,  357. 

Benyowski,  M.  A.  de,  595. 


6l2 


INDEX. 


Itenzeman'n  explorationH,  34J. 

Hcrens,  Caplain,  J38. 

Kergli,  Vasili,  5'A 

liering,  Captain,  197  ;  cxpctlitioti  of,  297  ;  rcsulls 

of  expeditiui),  iw,  300;  death  of,  yn,  531. 
llcrinK   ^c^i   4;   bmmdaricn  of,   34'! ;   river,   171; 
straits,  330.    335,   341,  374,  377,  459:   W.  *"> 
431.  431.  4''4.  4)1- 
neriiiR,  the  ship,  ii<). 

Hcsbiiro'  Klaiul,  147,  2^7  ;  wrongly  located,  291. 
Ilickmnre,  I'rofessor  A.  S  ,  52O. 
Middle,  Captain,  330. 
liidarka,  description  of,  15. 
Rihun,  or  shaman,  5^2. 
IlillinRs,  Joseph,  in  charge  of  expedition,  3<o  :  ''» 

failure,  31^1,  4S1. 
Kirch  Indians,  431. 
Birch  Kivcr,  101,  2S0. 
Ilirds  of  Alaska,  s^o. 
Hl.ick  River,  i(\\,  275,  285. 

HIake,  Professor,  his  account  of  glaciers,  462,  471. 
HIanchard  and  Meek  arrive  at  Silk.i,  334. 
lllaschke,  IJr.,  yfi, 
Illivcn,  Captain,  250. 
Blizhni  Island,  247. 

Illodgctt,  Professor  Lorin,  his  report,  4SI. 

Hlossom,  the  ship,  314,  335  ;  voyage  of,  433. 

Boats,  skin,  description  of,  13. 

Bodega  Bay,  306,  327,  328,  332. 

liogoslova  volcano,  2S(;,  41)9,  471. 

Bolshoya  Kivcr,  302,  516. 

Bolsheretsk,  overpowered  by  Polish  exiles,  305. 

Borodino,  ihc  ship,  332. 

Bostini,  334 ;  ice  from,  346. 

Boston  Society  of  Natural  History,  463. 

Botokudo  tribe  of  Brazil,  416. 

Boulder  Island,  247,  47S. 

Boundaries,  333  ft  seq. 

Bouvetle's  Island,  4(>2. 

Brazil,  Indians  of,  416. 

Bristol  Bay,  246,  249,  261,  273,  333,  340,  350,  405, 

4''4.  5'34. 
British  Columbia,  464  ;  description  of,  50O  ct  seij. 
Briiton  and  Key's  charts,  jijo. 
Broken  Slave  dialect,  106. 
Broughton,  VV,  K.,  59O ;  Robert,  314. 
Browning,  O.  H.,  Acting  Secretary  of  State,  3fi7- 
Buchanan,  President  James,  596. 
Bucklaiid's  Voyage,  434,  435. 
Buckland  Kiver,  284,  486. 
Buesching,  A.  I"  ,  506. 
Bukadoroff,  attacked  by  natives,  323. 
Buldakoff,  331. 

Bulegin,  Ivan,  killed  by  Indians,  49. 
Bulkley,  Captain  Charles  S.,  6,  355. 
Bulwan  idols,  519, 
Bumey,  Captain  James,  596. 
Burials,  description  of,  19. 
Burning  Point,  126. 
Burnt  Island,  247,  289. 


Ruschmann,  ;(/>. 
Bush,  Richard  J.,  35^  35" 
Butler's  surveys,  2^)1 

Byrnes,  Michael,  explore*  the  Yukon,  177,  33^, 
so?. 

C. 

Caatnano,  Lieutenant  Jacinto,  313. 

Cabrillo,  voyage  of,  294. 

I'achc,  description  of  a,  133. 

Caithness,  statistics  of,  447. 

Calder  Mountain,  4'i7. 

Calendar,  the  Russian,  59. 

California,  exiiediiion  to,  324  ;  purchase  of  land  in, 
326;  Russian  settlement  in,  32S;  s.alt  from,  335; 
ceded  to  United  St.ites,  342;  admitted  to  ilic 
Union,  344;  miners  in,  478;  Academy  of  Natu- 
ral Sciences,  4(.-o. 

Cambridge  Bay,  345. 

Camden  Bay,  34'! ;  port,  474. 

Campbell,  Charles,  his  expedition  to  California, 
324,  507  ;  voyage  rounil  the  world,  yfi. 

Campbell,  Robert,  descends  the  Yukon,  276,  340, 

345- 
Canadians,  the  French,  103 
Canoes,  description  of,  126. 
Canton,  329,  492. 

Cape  Anderson,  249. 

"  AvinolT,  262,  40O. 

"  Balhurst,  346. 

•'  Beaufort,  457,  474. 

"  Bering,  510. 

"  Chacon,  251. 

"  Choukotski,  246, 

"  Chukotsky,  269. 

"  Const.intinc,  261. 

"  Dall,  2f.3. 

"  Dai  by,  2^)7. 

"  Pcnbigh,  137,  267,  471. 

"  Ilougl.ass,  25S, 

"  r>yer,  2O3,  2f^4,  275. 

"  Edgecumbe,  253. 

"  Klizabeth,  25S. 

"  Etolin,  262. 

"  Fairwcather,  25'),  271. 

"  Flattery,  314. 

"  Hawaii,  249,  so). 

"  Kamchatka,  24(1. 

"  Khramchenko,  262. 

"  Krusenstcrn,  262. 

"  Kygani,  251. 

"  Leonovich,  260. 

"  Lisburne,  a()g,  345. 

"  Manby,  257. 

"  Mendocino,  294,  305. 

"  Muzon,  J51,  331. 

"  Nenilchik,  474. 

"  Newenham,  261, 405. 

"  Parry,  345. 

"  Phipps,  256. 


"     n, 


INDEX. 


6l 


Ciipo  Peircc,  if't. 

••     I'tiiue  111  Wales,  ifJ>;  i6g,  31}. 

"     ruijel,  V5S. 

"     KcKlgniiff,  ]fo. 

"     KomniiziifT,  40'i,  407,  477. 

"     Scrd/e  K.imcii,  21)^,  2if),  510. 

"     Shallow  Water,  iiy,  lyt,  3<t^. 

"     Smitli.  I'M- 

"     S|>anl)cris,  j6S. 

"     Silencer,  2t,<>,  >?'<,  471. 

"     St.  I'.ll.n,  300,  3i(),  471. 

"     St.  llermogcnes,  300. 

"     St.   I'h.iHdeiit,  H'). 

"     SlarklikiitT,  474. 

"     .Strd^oiioff,  j6o. 

"     Suckling,  3J7. 

"     Thnmas,  24'),  501) 

"     Tlioinpsim,  457. 

"     Vancciiiver,  j'u,  ^75. 

"     Whymper,  jhi. 

"     Yakan,  50). 
Captain's  llarlxir,  jfo,  471. 
Carbon  Station,  coal  at,  475. 
Caribon  Indian^,  4.<>. 
Carnivora  of  Alaska,  575. 
Cascade  ran^e,  457. 
Casine,  description  of,  5;t. 
Cathcriiia  .XrcliipclaK",  24't,  2?8,  41)1. 
Caiightin  thcKocks  River,  9<>. 
Cavicornia  of  Al.iska,  578, 
Cervida'  of  Alaska,  578. 
Chakwan  liay,  262, 
Ihallik  River,  283. 
Chalmers  liay,  357,  4^)5. 
Clianiisso  Island,  344. 
Chaniisso,  voyaRe  of,  454,  443,  449,  507. 
Chappel,  Scott  R.,  355. 
Chart  of  the  Yukon,  first,  263 :  of  Coal   Harbor, 

291. 
Charter  of  Russian  American  Company  renewed, 

.m.  34  ■• 
Chatham  Strait,  250,  252,  315:    Russians  driven 

from,  325. 
(.hatham,  the  sliip,  314. 
Chechitno  River,  272. 
I  hcchitno  volcano,  4(16,  467. 
Cheerful  I'cak,  535. 
Chernoff,  the  explorer,  336. 
Chichagoff  Island,  250;  harbor,  2fio. 
ChiclLigofT,  the  brig,  337,  341. 
Chigniit  Mountains,  2S6. 
Children,  Indian,  98;  treatment  of,  3S1. 
Chili,  491,  492. 

Chilkaht  Indians,  100:  valley,  429:  tena,  429, 
Chilkaht  River,  100.  252,  271,  339,  429. 
Chilkaht,  the  schooner,  337,  339. 
Chiginagak  volcano,  289. 
Ihinisyan  Island,  3S9,  25S,  507. 
Chimsyans,  the,  411. 
China,  trade  open  with,  316.  491,  501,  504.  51S. 


Chinese  compared  with  Innuil,  ^jf: 

ChiniHik  jargon,  i>  (< :  tyhee,  533. 

Cliippewyan  chain,  5uH. 

Chippewyans.  the,  28,  428. 

ChirikofT  Island,  24H,  315. 

ChirikotT.  Lieutenant  Alexis,  297,  301.  , 

Chirikotf,  the  ship,  )2fi. 

ChistakotT,  Lieutenant,  334,  335. 

I'hiswell  Islanils,  25S. 

Chlebnikotf,  Ins  notes  on  America,  407. 

Choris,  his  voyage,  597. 

Chramcheiiko  (see  A'/iI/mi/i/mj^o),  5<!7. 

Chriilian  .Sound,  2ju. 

Christianity,  introduction  of,  39}.  vfi 

I  hristmas,  celebration  of,  58,  178. 

Chronology,  294-372 

ChruscholT  (see  AVmA.Vi,^).  597. 

Chtagalnk  Island,  336. 

Chngach  C.ulf,   257.    272,   2.>o.    307.  3'3.  i\'-  4'7. 

484. 
Chugachigmul  Innuit.  401. 
Chugachik  liay,  258,  410,  471. 
Chugatz  Islands,  24S,  258. 

Chukchee  Peninsula,  2I1);  Orarlans  on,  374,  510 
I'hukchecs,  137,  j,/, ;  aitacked  by  Russians,  21)8; 

independence  ol',   2')\  353,   375,  378-385,    50>>. 

510,  513-515,  519.  5^3' 
Chukluk  Island,  3H5 
Chnklukmut  Innuil,  385. 
Chukotski  Nose,  511. 
Church,  I'irst  Russo-dreek,  317,  351. 
Churnobour  Reef,  333,  335,  450. 
Chnvantses,  519. 
Chv,oslofr  (see  l^nviilnffX  597. 
Chy,  or  Russian  lea,  I'l. 
Circassian  tobacco,  81,  4sr,,  515. 
Clara  Hell,  the  bark,  ii<^;  arrives  at  St.  Michael's, 

121  ;  sails,  122,  35''>,  358. 
Clarence,  I'ort,  408,  409,  410. 
Clark  and  Lewis  descend  (.oluinbia  River,  323. 
Clear  River,  84. 

Clerk,  Captain  I'harlcs,  his  voyage  and  death,  30^). 
Clothing,  description  of,  21,  82,  83. 
Clyoqnol,  313. 

Coal,  false  reports  of,  98,  475. 
Coal  Haibor,  25');  chart  of,  291.  474,  483. 
Co.ist  Pilot  of  Alaska,  59S. 
Co<li,ic,  532. 
Collections  of  Massiichusetts   Historical  Soc-ety, 

597- 
Collins,  Periy  M'P.,  355. 
Colliiison,  Captain  Richard,  344.  345,  S4^- 
Collinson's  I'.xpcdition,  4S,  '45,  597. 
Columbia  College,  N.  Y.,  474. 
Columbia  River,  314,  32S,  330,  337,  340,  342. 
Columbia,  the  sloop,  309, 
Colvile  River,  4,  432, 
Conmiander's  Islands,  285,  350,  471,  496. 
Company,  Russian  American,  11. 
1  Comptroller's  Bay,  257. 


6i4 


INDEX. 


I'nnifira-  of  Al««ka,  soa. 

C'linradi,  i'jpuiii,  141. 

Cnnalinline,  llie  iiilirr,  j>2,  14A,  ^f*■.  iMrbnr,  jj;. 

('nnvictsiellled.lt  Muiinl  Si.  Kill*.  1i'>. 

C'iKik'*  Kxpeditiun,  (.'apuin  Jimet,  jo6,  ]i4,  4II1, 

5'l7 
Cook'*  Inlet,  148,  JsB,  jftj,  171,  joll,  .115.  ^^'>•  i^^> 

3^1,  14J,   345,  401,  4'!'.   41".   H(><  450-43>.  4S3i 

45ft,  45«,  4fK>,  474,  475,  4.S4,  4S3. 
Cuoie  lUy,  475. 

('iip|>cr  IhI.iiuI,  14ft,  JO),  341,  46<),  537. 
l.'i)p|ier  Kiver,   157,  iji,  aS<),  mj.  101 :   mouth  of, 

di'Kovered,   507,  .117,  31S,  331,  341,  34^,  iiS,  4J.), 

430,  4».4.  477. 
Cordov.1  ll.iy,  J51. 
Coronailo,  voyage  of,  i<]4. 
('(mack,  (iriKin  iif  Kii^si.in  deniKnatlon,  410. 
Cotter,  Klili.ird  I) ,  ii)2,  .157, 
Com  ley,  de.itli  of,  109. 
Coxe'n  descriptions,  JU' 
CreoleH,   clur.Klcr  of,   45;    as  citizens,    341:    as 

cliurcli  meniberH,  341. 
Crilinn,  Moiinl,  461. 
Cron<t.tdt,  3  3 J,  334. 
Crow  Indians,  4J<>,  430. 

Croyere,  I.ouis  Delisle  de  la,  death  of,  300,  598. 
Croiier.  Captain,  (43. 
Crucifer.e  of  Alaska,  5.)8. 
Cruiser,  the  frigate,  333. 


D. 

n.idalus,  the  ship,  314. 

I)all  Kiver,  100,  jSo,  jSi. 

Dall,  William  II.,  /Passim  ;  his  writings  cited,  597, 

Dances,  Indiaii,  115,  ■<)!*. 

Dances,  Innuit,  149,  iit. 

Danger  I'cak,  .si 3. 

D.ividoff  explores  Aleutian  Islands,  3J0,  598. 

D.ividson,  Cflacier,  251,  448,  4')3,  4S3,  598. 

Davidson,  Mr.  ( ieorge,  352,  555,  271,  448,  483,  48S  ; 
his  works  cited,  ;<)8. 

D.-tvis,  I'.eiicral  JelTerson  C,  appointed  Com- 
mander in  Alask.i,  339. 

Davis  Straits,  509. 

Davison,  Lieutenant  John,  291,  356. 

Dawson,  Nancy,  the  yacht,  344, 

Day's  Harbor,  25S. 

Dealy  Island,  346. 

De.ise  and  Simpson's  Expedition,  338. 

Dease  Inlet,  jfy). 

Dcase  Strait,  345. 

De  Castries  Hay,  526. 

Deep  Hay,  4619,  473. 

Deep  Lake,  471,  485. 

Deer  River,  279. 

DclarofT  Hay,  360. 

Delaroff,  K.  A  ,  314. 

Delaroff  Island,  247. 


I)«lphinid«  of  Alaska,  37!. 

Demarcation  i'oint,  26<>. 

Demenliiff  Iprnvalisha,  1711. 

DemiankofT  dritrn  from  Vakntal  llay,  3>). 

De  Mofras  340,  vi8. 

Denys,  his  account  of  Har,innfT,  v)i  :  cited,  398. 

I  )erahin,  4H,  30  :  |i<>st  cstabhshed  by,  276  ;  rcbuild.i 

It  Nulato,  341,  343. 
Derabin,  Koii,  ^ft. 
Derby,  the  American  ship,  J15, 
Dcshneff,  his  vovage,  293,  2t,i6,  375. 
Devil's  Slough,  ]'>4 
Diagram  of  casine,  127. 
Dialects,  Indian,  2H. 
Diana,  the  sloop  of  war,  323,  32A. 
Diomedes,  the,  I4>,  37s. 
Directory  for  Hcring's  Sea,  Sc  .  59S. 
Discovery,  building  of  ship,  jii<,  331, 
Dixon,  Captain,  308,  59S. 
Dixon's  Knirance,  251,  306,  314,  487,  4SS. 
Documents  pertaining  to  purchase  of  Alaska,  339- 

.?7» 
Dog-driving,  iSft. 
Dog  tribe  of  Tungusi.  the,  518. 
Dogs,  Russian,  23,  travelling  with,  13. 
Dokliteroff,  332. 
Dolphin  Strait,  34). 
Domestic  life,  139,  140. 
Doroschin,  S'f)' 

Doroshin,  mining  euRineer,  273,  342,  437.  477 
Douglas  ascends  the  'I'aku,  271 ;  sail*  from  Macao, 

JO).  340. 
Dove,  31)9. 

Drake,  Sir  Francis,  294. 
Dry  Hay,  271. 
Drymen,  443. 
Dumbartonshire,  444. 
Dunn,  31)9. 

Du  Petit  'I'houars,  599. 
Dyer   Lieutenant  J.  T.,  »S.  ^$<  36;  descend-,  the 

Yukon,  56,  263,  277,  292,  357. 


E. 

F,arthqH.3ke  in  178S,  310. 

F-artliquakes,  118,  342. 

F.ast  Cape,  269,  286. 

Easter,  celebration  of,  68. 

F.astern  fisheries,  484. 

Kastern  Siberia,  463.  508,  510. 

Ebbets,  Captain,  321  ;  sails  for  Astor,  326. 

Eclipse  K?:pediti<)n,  334. 

Eclipse,  the  ship,  321. 

Edgarlown,  277. 

Edgecunibe  volcano,  467. 

Egg  Island,  3,  5,  24,  266,  267. 

Egg  River,  232. 

Ekogmut  tribe,  223,  227,  228,  407. 

Elis.ibetli,  the  vessel,  320. 

Elliott,  Dr.,  taken  prisoner,  329. 


INDEX. 


615 


F.ltnn,  ll> '  explorer,  jij. 

I.mma  lUrlinr,  J7u,  141,  511. 

I  HKrlli.uill,  5'». 

I  iikIi'<Ii  ll.irl)<>r,  13II. 

•  iinii,  W.  H.,  R,  ji)j,  157. 

I'.nierprisr,  ihe  tliip,  fitted  out  by  Aslor,  \i6,  333, 

K(|iil.l,r  III  .\l.i«l.,i,  ;7ll. 

I  reliiin.  Ilie  «hip,  )43. 

I  reniin  in  cli.iri;«  ufkyakt,  313. 

Ktman,  57H. 

I  i«e,  (.'a|<i,iin,  315. 

I^dlolli  Inlet,  2'vi:  n.iy,  184. 

K^kimo  ((ir   l''.v|iiimaiix),   373,  377,  379,  514;  de- 

MTilitinn  of,  531, 
K.spinoia,  .vc) 

lliilin,  tj,  310.  3W.  335 -.«7.  14<».  14».  35» 
K.tiilin  Sir.iil,  3^1  -  i$i  ;  ll.iy,  375 
1  vclyii  Wiiinl,  the  li.irk,  357,  35S. 
I  vpcilition,  orpaiu/aiioii  nf  I'eleBraph,  355-35S. 
KxpliiMliiiii't,  pLiiis  for,  1 13. 
Exploring  Lxpcditiun,  U.  b.,  339,  340,  348. 


r. 

F.ilrw,->y  Rock,  j^k). 

K.iirwcillier  Mutinl.iin,  4^1, 

Kalkl.ind  Isl.inds,  491. 

F.ilvf  I'.iss,  2(m,  305,  3t)6,  44S 

1  .inii.i  (if  the  V'likon  Valley,  287. 

Fcdis,  5w- 

Fenie,  the  ship,  391. 

I'lsliv.iU,  description  of,  149-  155. 

Findl.iy's  Directory,  51)9. 

Fire  River,  25s,  2ji. 

Ki>cher,  ^99. 

Fi^li citthinR,  171,  173,  i8o,  19a. 

Fisheries,  4S1  -488. 

Fishes  of  Alaska,  579. 

Fish  River,  284. 

FJAthead  Indians,  420. 

Fleuricii's  voyape,  599. 

Flying  Fish,  the  schooner.  339. 

Fdtbes,  Profpssor  E.,  435. 

Forcicr  River,  279. 

Forster,  600. 

Fort  Alex.mder,  173  -  J75,  45J. 

"    Andreafsky,  3S3,  291. 

"    Archangel  (labriel,  310. 

"    Archangel  Michael,  323. 

"    I!.\l)ine,  1 14. 

"    l)e,ise,  114. 

"    Defiance,  313. 

"    Derabin,  46. 

"    Dionysius,  337,  338. 

"    Drew,  340. 

"     Francis,  114. 

"    Cenrge,  32S. 

"     Halkett,  340. 

"    Kennicott,  building  of,  68,  72,  124. 


I  Fort  l.iikren,  34A 

"    .Mil'hrrvin,  103,  aSo^  344. 

"     Nelson,  1 1  a 

"     Snialo,  34H. 

"     I'eace  River,  114. 

"     I'rily  llanka,  114 

"     Selkiik,  114,  .7'.,  277,  279,  j8l,  a^7,  343.  4»* 

507,  508. 
"    MnipMin,  203,  251,  252,  411,  454. 
"    St.  Michael,  336. 
"    'Fongas,  251. 
"    I'liion,  43H. 
"    Vancouver,  337. 
"    Wiangcll,  251. 
"    Vukiin,  6.),  71,  S'),  loa ;   description  of,  loj, 

192,  27f.,  292,  342,  34t.  357,  437,  43),  441, 

501,  JO,.-. 

Fortiina,  the  ship,  297  ;  wrecked,  2')8,  331. 

Fossils,  hy,  71.  j8o 

Foster's  Mississippi  Valley  cited,  45S. 

Four  I'r.iters  voliano,  4'7,  4'.^,  4^«). 

Fox  Islaiid.s.  explored,  304,  30^,  350,  47ft. 

F" ranees  Lake,  278,  429;  River,  278,  279,  292,  jo8. 

Francis,  Mr.,  25,  3;. 

Franklin,  Sir  John,  search  for,  4^,  331,  334,  333, 

338.  143- 
F'raier  l„ike,  324  ;  River,  356. 
F'razer,  Simon,  324. 
F'rederiik,  Captain  Charles,  346. 
Frederick  Sound,  250,  2',2. 
Fremont,  J.  t.'.,  his  Rocky  Mountain  Expedition, 

34'- 

F'reiinann,  600. 
F'reygang,  (kx>. 
Fur  trade,  4SS  -  504. 

F'uruhelm,  Captain,  34^  :  supersedes  Woiwodsky, 
349i  353.  355  •  superseded  by  .Maksutoff,  355. 


o. 

("I.ibriel,  the  ship,  297- 
C.ale,  Captain,  ^3(\ 
(■aliano.  Lieutenant  D.  A.,  313. 
Ciallap.agos  Island,  492. 
(iaine,  201  -  203. 

('■ens  de  Hois,  the  tribe  of,  109,  430. 
Gens  de  Large,  io<). 
Gens  des  lluttes,  108,  282. 
Gens  des  F'oux.  109.  429- 
Gentianacp.i-  of  .Alask.i,  591. 
Gco:;raphisther  MittheiUingcn.  290. 
Geography  of  Alaska,  243  -  293. 
George's  Strait,  319. 
Germain,  Father,  339. 
(Ihcnt,  treaty  of,  329. 
Gliiliaks,  the,  522. 
Gibbs.  Dr.  George.  378,  430. 
Glacier  Artii,  251,  340. 

Glasunoff  explores  the  Yukon,  etc.,  265,  275.  27^ 
338. 


: 


;:3' 


6i6 


INDEX. 


i  ■ ' 


niossary,  520-  51^- 

("ilolliiflf,  tlie  exiilorcr,  ^50. 

Olot'cr,  Lieiiten.iiil  Russell,  35& 

Glubokoi  Lake,  253. 

(Imelin  cited,  600. 

(iold  in  California,  discovery  of,  344. 

Cioldon  Gate,  the  bark,  4,  35'>-358. 

GolikolT,  t; ,  receives  medal  from  Catherine  II., 

(iolikoff,  Ivan,  316. 

(jolofnin  I!ay,  333 ;  the  ship,  33.3. 

Clolofnin,  W.   .M.,  in  charge  of  sloop  Dian.i,  323, 

326,  330,  331  ;  his  book  died,  600. 
(jolofiiiiia  I'.ty,  2f)7,  26S,  284 
Ciolovin,  I'ailier,  339. 
Oolovin,  1'.  N.,  34'),  353,  354.  449,  600. 
C'loloviii  Sound,  267,  333,  33'). 
(Inlsova  Kiver,  20,  ij.j,  ifio,  267,  2'>~^, 
(lood  Intent,  exploring  vessel,  331,  332. 
(loodncws  Hay,  262,  331. 
(lore,  Lientenant  John,  306. 
Ooreloi  Island,  247,  302. 
Cioreloi,  volcano,  289,  466,  473. 
Ciovorlifki's  Report,  too, 
tiraniinex  of  Alaska,  592. 
(Irant,  LI.  S.,  Secretary  of  War,  369. 
(iranlley  Harbor,  party  at,  4,  61,  120,  147,  216,  2S4, 

24".  .145.  .I5S.  472,  50'.  502. 
(brasses  of  Alaska,  592. 
(Jraves,  description  of,   19;   Ing.ilik,   132;   Innnit, 

I4(). 
Gray,  Captain   Robert,  from  P.oston,  31X; ;  carries 

United  States  flag  round  the  world  for  the  fir.st 

time,  311,  314. 
Great  liritain  and  Ru.ssia,  convention  between,  334. 
Great  Net  Island,  247. 
Great  .Sitkin  volcano,  467. 
Greek  Catholics,  \f;t. 
Greek  Church,  missii^naries  of,  2S,  226,  350-352, 

400. 
Greenhiiw  visits  the  Columbia  River,  340,  5qo,  601. 
Greenlanders,  language  of,  377. 
(Jreenough's  History  of  Oregon,  &c.    cited,  311- 

314;  error  in,  323. 
Grcgorieff  explores  Copper  River,  341. 
Grewingk  cited,  2S8,  457,  475,  47S,  601. 
Grossulacc.u  of  Alaska,  51)0. 
Grouse-catching,  17S. 
Guaymas,  345. 
(Jiigiak  Day,  261. 
Guise,  Captain,  30S. 
tinlf  Stream  of  the  Pacific,  2S5 
Uwosdeff,  Mich.ael,  engineer,  298. 

H. 

Hagenmeistcr,   Captain,   325 ;   assumes  duties  of 

Chief  Director,  330,  33,,  335. 
Hagenmeister  Island,  261. 
Hall,  Captain,  313,  512. 


Halleck,  General,  374. 

Hamilton  Harbor,  253,  474. 

Hanemann's  calculations,  290. 

Han  Kutchin  tribe,  10;,  430. 

Hanna,  J-imes,  makes  trading  voyages,  307. 

Haider's  astronomical  observations,  34.1. 

Harding,  Captain,  356. 

Hardisty,  William  I..,  196. 

Harper's  Macaiine,  Ooi. 

Hartwig  cited,  /iitssim,  519. 

Hawaiian        ctator  cited,  Coi, 

Hawkin  IsLuid,  257. 

Hearne,  Samuel,  explores  Copper  Mine  River,  305. 

Heceta,  Captain,  expedition  of,  305  ;  discovers  the 

mouth  of  Columbia  River,  306. 
Heights  of  mountains,  2,S9. 
Helen,  the  ship,  334,  335,  33S. 
Hellt,  the  a^^'ronomer,  343. 
Helniersen's  lieitrage,  2'i5. 
Henry,  Mr,  in  charge  of  Fort  Nelson,  112. 
Herald  Island,  250,  344,  50; 
Herald,  the  ship,  343. 
Hewston,  Dr.  John,  477. 
Hinchinbrook  Island,  257. 
History  of  Alaska,  294-372. 
Ht)fmann.  his  work  cited,  (>oi. 
Hohonila,  Mount,  S4. 
Holmberg  cited,  42S  vt  set/  ,  601. 
Hong  K(mg,  345. 
Honolulu,  502. 
Hood's  Hay,  473. 
Hooper,  his  work  cited,  fioi. 
Hooper's  opinion  (m  the  name  of  the  Tuski,  174 
Hospitals,  352,  355. 
Hotham  Inlet,  2R4. 

Houle,  Antoiue,  interpreter,  S'l,  91,  102. 
Houses,  description  of,  13,  14 
Hudson  I?ay,  344,  502,  507,  530. 
Hudson  Bay  Company,  91  ;  trading  with  Indian*, 

104,    III,    112;  its  policy,   114;  diflTicuUies  will 

Russians,    337 ;     compromise,     338 ;    lease    to 

newed,  34S ;  imjiortations  of,  601. 
Hiili'.nak  River,  274,  275. 
Hunibc.ldt,  quoted,  3S5,  601. 
Hunt,  Wilson  P.,  327;  arrives  at  Astoria,  329. 
Hunting,  201  -203. 


Ice  Company  on  Woody  Island,  259. 

Ice  from  Sitka,  346 ;  negotiations  concerning,  vi; 

348.  35;. 
Icy  Cape,  256,  332. 
Icy  Strait,  250,  252. 
I,i;ln",  532. 
Iglu,  532. 

Ignalook  Island,  24'). 
Ignatief  Isai,  his  voyage,  294,  295. 
Iktigalik,  village  of,  2fi,  33 ;  expedition  starts  fur, 

35;  reached,  37,  157;  expeditioti  at,  1O8. 


I 


INDEX. 


617 


uuccrning,  mi 


Iliainnn  Lake,  273  ;  volcano,  2S9,  466,  467. 

IliuUiV    444. 

Iliner,  the  ship,  329. 

Iiiiaklit  Island,  241). 

Indian  stocks,  411. 

Indians,  snpersiitions  of,  61  :  Tananah  River,  83  ; 
religion  of,  8S  ;  Lake  Superic,  91  ;  mode  of 
painting,  94 ;  oraments,  95  ;  da.'ces,  95  ;  chil- 
dren, 9S  ;  Chilkaht,  100  ;  Tananai,,  107,  108  ; 
Naiche  Kutchin  tribe,  109 :  Hat,  109 ;  Yunt., 
Kiitchin,  109:  lljn  Kutchin,  lu  Ingalik  tri!)e, 
")i<  "M  •  sifkness  among,  11)5;  music,  > /) ; 
niensils,  21O,  21S  :  diiTerenl  tribes,  373-452. 

Ingalik  tribe,  2S  ;  description  of,  53,  cranium,  67; 
grave,  132;  sicds,  1O5 ;  habits  ol",  193,  194;  ca- 
noes, 211). 

Ingecliuk,  29;  as  letter-carrier,  34. 

Ingenstriim,  336. 

Inglutalik,  479. 

Inglulalik  River,  284. 

Ingraham,  Joseph,  309. 

Inkalichljuaten  tribe,  432. 

InKiliken  tribe,  432. 

Innoko  River,  282,  432. 

liinuit,  great  family  of,  13  :  description  of  the.  18  ; 
casine,  127;  characteristics  of,  136:  different 
tribes  of,  137;  habits  of,  141-146;  trading 
among,  143,  144;  description  of  grave.  14*^1; 
dancing  among,  149;  festivals,  149-153:  kind- 
ness of,  159;  drawings  on  bone,  237;  village, 
264 ;  classification  of,  374 ;  of  Alaska,  401  ; 
meaning  of  name,  532 ;  Aleuts,  civilization 
among,  115;  honesty  of.  133;  Ka\iak  tribe,  13S; 
Mahlemut,  tribe  of,  13S  :  ornaments  among,  141  ; 
cioiliing  of,  141 ;  trading  among,  143,  144  ;  dan- 
cipg  among,  149,  221  ;  festivals,  149-153  ;  Kkog- 
mut  tribe,  221  ;  drawings  on  bone,  237. 

Invalid  Rcuski,  601. 

Inverness,  445,  447. 

Investigator,  the  ship,  344,  347. 

Irkutsk,  30S ;  company  organized  at,  ,117,  320,  340, 
sot.  ■i32. 

Isabella,  the  ship,  330. 

Lsanotski  Pass,  248. 

Isanolski  Strait,  2f>o,  448,  469,  470. 

Isanotski  Mountain,  289. 

l-au  Pavloff,  bidarshik,  44.  59  ;  rescued,  69,  91. 

I  (nil's  barrabora,  42,  170,  531. 

Ivra  .Ilka  Island,  248. 


lacobi,  (ieneral  John,  bis  direction  as  to  discov- 
eries, 308. 
Janotfsky,  Lieutenant,  331,  332,  f)oi. 
Japan  current,  285. 

.japan  Kxpedition,  United  States,  347;  treaty,  347. 
Japanese  Archipelago,  347. 

J.ipanese  historians,  523.  j 

Japonski  Island,  254.  ', 


Jearny's  barr.abora,  17(1. 

Jelagin,  Ivan,  liering's  pilot,  270,  299. 

Joanna  Dogoslov,!,  volcano  ol,  324. 

Jo.isaph,  Archimandrite,  315  ;  complains  of  Baran- 
olT,  316:  made  bishop,  317;  death  of,  319,  339. 

Johnson,  President  A  idrew,  his  Alaska  proclama- 
tion, etc.,  359-372. 

Jones,  Strachaii,  Commander  at  Fort  Yukon,  196, 
202,  27'i,  355. 

Jounial  des  Savans  cited,  fioi. 

Journal  of  Department  of  the  Interior,  602. 

Jugelnuten  tribe,  432. 

Junker,  Captain,  3.(0. 

Junnakacliolana  Indians,  431. 

Jimo,  the  ship,  323. 

Juvenati,  I'ather,  attempts  to  put  down  polygamy, 
3'7- 

K. 

Kachid.agnk  Point,  47S. 

Kadiak  .Aicliipelago,  259. 

Kadiak,  group,  246;  area  of,  190,  303,  313;  first 
census  of,  317,  3ii  ;  church  at,  317;  school  at, 
323,  331.  -tU.  .V?^.  .340.  34'.  342,  345,  350,  351, 
352  ;  missionaries  at,  399,  401,  443,  450,  47O,  477, 
478,  479,  481,  4'<3,  529. 

Kadiak,  the  ship,  wreck  ol",  349. 

Kadin,  Michael,  pilot,  3.,9. 

KadnikolT,  Captain,  339,  340. 

Kagataya  Koiing'ns,  or  "  People  of  the  East,"  3S5, 
530. 

Kaiyuh-kho-tana,  431. 

Kaiyuh  River,  68,  282. 

Kake  Strait,  253,  321,  349,  45.8,  474. 

Kaknn  River,  25S,  273,  33(1,  477. 

Kalgiii  Island,  258. 

Kalt.a?   village  of,  41,  65. 

Kamchatka,  313,  3;5,  354,  357.  358,  482,  484,  491, 
515,  523,  529,  532. 

Kamchatka,  I'av  of,  258. 

Kanichatka  River,  270,  2S5,  516,  51S. 

Kamlayka,  532. 

Kaniokin,  40S. 

Kamshadalcs,  516,  517,  523. 

Kanaga  Island,  247;  volcano,  4''7,  469,  473. 

Kanaka  dialect,  3'<i. 

Kaniagmuls,  3S5  ;  description  of,  385  et  scg. 

K.ir.igin,  the  explorer,  249. 

Karaginski  Island,  249. 

KaslievarolT,  340,  341,  354;  cited,  602. 

Katmai  liay,  259,  458. 

Kavalay  Islaml,  247. 

Kavia(.niul.s,  408. 

Kaviak  Peninsula,  268,  2S8,  289,  49S,  500. 

Kaviaks,  morals  of,  138. 

Kaviava  /.ak  River,  284. 

Kayak  Island,  257. 

Kaz.irn  Hay,  251,  48b, 

Keeska  Island,  247. 

Kcgikhtuhliak,  533. 


6i8 


INDEX. 


Wf 


In 


[! 


Kegikhluk,  533. 

Kegiktuwnik,  cove  of,  16-20,  125  ;  casine  of,  12b, 

158,  2(17.  283,  532. 
Kellett,  Captain  Henry,  343,  34'),  509. 
Kellogg,  Dr.,  448,  449,  452,  455. 
Kcloey,  358. 
Kenai  Peninsula,  258,  251),  315;  polygamy  in,  317, 

342,  351  ;  natives  hostile,  320. 
Kenai/.er  tribe,  42S. 
Kendrick,   Captain   Jolin,  30(; ;    his  first  passage 

through  Straits  of  Kuca,  311. 
Kennan,  George,  356. 
Kennicott  Lake,  51)6. 
K^nnicutt  Muunlain,  $12. 
Kennicott,  Robert,  liis  experience  in  the  Hudson 

Hay  Territory,  4  ;  death,  5  ;  visits  Major's  Cove, 

20;  e;jitaph,  70;  plans  lor  explorations,  122,276, 

340.  355.  35''.  358.  457- 
Kentucky  coal,  475. 
Ketchum,  I' rank  E.,  8,  14,  18,  23,  43,  56,  116,  277; 

ascends  Yukon,  277  ;  his  map,  280,  283-2:^2,  357, 

507- 
Ketchum,  Lake,  506. 
Ketlitk  Kutchin,  431. 
Khannkh,  414. 

KhlebnikolT's  explorations,  326. 
Khwostolf  Peak,  289. 
KhwostolT  explores  Admiralty  Hay,  etc.,  317,  319, 

320. 
Kiachta,  501. 
Kikhtuk,  532. 
Kilen,  the,  52:,. 
King  Island,  268. 

Kipniuk  River,  253,  264,  265,  275,  407. 
Kirkby,  Rev.  W.  W.,  457  ;  his  travels,  27S. 
KirlolT  liay,  260. 
Kislakot'fsky,  331. 
Kitlakalaks,  4S5. 
Kitllitz,  the  naturalist,  335,  602. 
Klalkakliatne    River,   40 ;    head-quarters    uf   the 

Yukon   Di- ision,   61,   69,    71;   breaking    up  of, 

205. 
Kliniofis  ,y  explores  Copper  River,  331. 
Klinkof.triim,  Captain  Martin,  342. 
Klochkoff,  333. 
KluchelT  volcano,  423. 
Knife,  Kutchin,  105, 
Knight  Island,  257. 
Knik    iiver,  272, 
KniKtagmut,  4'-,-(. 
Kuch,  appni.ited  Chief  Director  of  Colonies,  325  ; 

death  ol,  325. 
Kodiak,  529. 
Koliak,  Isaac,  21(1. 
Kol  uchin  li.iy,  374. 

KolinakdflT,  his  explorations,  331,  332,  336,  338. 
KolmakofT,  Kedmibt,  274,  275. 
Koloslies,  tribe  of,  393,  411,  4i(),  533. 
Kulshina  River,  4^9. 
Kolyma  River,  294,  313,  376,  509,  513,  515,  519. 


Komandorski  Islands,  347. 

Konaton  ...ver,  2S2. 

Koni  volcano,  473. 

Koniushi  volcano,  469. 

Koriaks,  the,  513,  514,  515. 

Korovin,  303  ;  liay,  473. 

Korovin  volcano,  289. 

Korovinsky  Hay,  260. 

Korsakoff,  his  explorations,  274,  331. 

Koshkin  cited,  602. 

Kostlitzeff  cited,  602. 

Kotelkakat  River,  48,  53,  282. 

Koteino  River,  53,  282. 

Kotio  River,  280,  479. 

Kotzebue,  August  K.  von,  2'')3,  329,  434,  446. 

K<il2ebue,  Lieutenant  Otto  von,  329,  330,  331,  3;;. 

334- 

Kotzebue  Sound,  53,  124,  147,  161,  216,  246;  dc 
scription  of,  2f.S,  284,  335,  344,  345,  407,  4ix), 
434,  440.  465,  472,  479,  484,  4S6,  502,  602. 

Kou-i-u  Island,  250,  454. 

Koyuk  River,  284. 

Koyukuk  River,  48,  77,  192.  282,  357 :  Sopka,  289 

Koyukukho-tana  Indians,  431. 

Koyukun  tribe,  48;  massacre  by,  48 -52;  charac- 
teristics of,  54,  345. 

Kramchenko,  333,  335  ;  cited,  602. 

Krasnoyarsk,  Resanoff  dies  at,  325. 

Kreesa  Island,  247. 

Krenitzin,  Captain,  explores  the  Fox  Islands,  304, 
602. 

Krotky,  the  transport,  335. 

Krugli  Island,  247. 

Krusenstern,  expedition  under,  321,  602,  603. 

Krusenstern  Island,  24'),  249. 

KrushchotT,  Captain,  333,  334,  602. 

Kriunoff  IJay,  474. 

Kruzoff  Island,  254,  289. 

Kugalga  Island,  24S. 

Kuiii  Island,  250,  474. 

Kuhikak  Hay.  261. 

Kun  River,  263. 

Kunguk  River,  269,  284. 

Kupffer,  cited,  6oj. 

KuprianolT,  Cajitain,  succeeds  Wrangsll,  33!!. 

KupiianolT  Island,  25' 1,  474. 

Knprianoff  Straits,  340. 

Kurile-Ainos,  526. 

Kurile  Lslands,  28S,  296  ;  invaded  by  Russians, ; ); , 
explored  by  Spanberg,  299,  32S,  336,  330,  4/). 
description  of,  523. 

Kurilla,  a  Nulato  Indian,  55. 

KurupanotT,  10. 

Kuslievaroff,  12,  339,  340. 

Kusilvak  I'hannel,  264,  284. 

Knsilvnk  Momitain,  232. 

Kusilvak  River,  265,  275,  2R3. 

KuskolT,  attacked  by  Thlinkets,  321,  325  ;  expedi- 
tion under,  326,  327  ;  makes  settlement  in  Cali- 
I'.irnia,  328, 


,  434.  446- 

•;.  33°.  33'.  333. 

II,  2i6,  246;  dc- 

.   345.   407.   4f). 
50J,  O02. 


,57 ;  Sopka,  289 
4S-52 ;  durac- 

;• 

''ox  Islands,  304, 

,  602,  603. 


rigcll.  33fi- 


■  Russians,  2)7. 
33''.  33°.  4 '''  ■ 


INDEX. 


619 


r-'S  ;  expedi- 
Icnient  iu  Call- 


Kuskoqiiim  River,  262,  273,  274,  275,  292,  336, 
338,  340,  350,  406,  464,  47.y,  4S1  ;  bny,  331,  332. 

Kuskwogmiits,  tribe  of,  405  it  seg. 

Ktitclia  Kutchin  tri'uc,  42S,  431. 

Kutcliin  tribes,  42S,  431. 

Kiiteino  River,  53,  282. 

Kiitlilatno  River,  2K2. 

Kutkan,  Michael,  341,  354. 

Kutlik  Channel,  119,  234,  264,  284, 

KutusofT,  the  ship,  330. 

Kwce-ahogemut  village,  264. 

Kwichak  River,  2C0. 

Kwiklipak,  month  of  the  Yukon,  265,  273  ;  identi- 
fied with  Yukon,  277,  2S3,  351  ;  slough,  407,  533. 

Kwikhtana,  barrabora,  210. 

Kwinc'iagak  River,  260. 

Kyak,  description  of  a,  15,  137,  138. 

Kyber,  Dr.,  508. 

Kygani  Indians,  411,  417 


Ladoga,  tlie  sloop,  333. 
Ladygin,  company  formed  by,  317. 
Lambert,  M.  Gustavc,  357. 
Lamuts  tribe,  51S. 
Lancaster  Sound,  346. 
Langsdorf,  Herr  G.  H.  von,  Oo^. 
La  Perouse  describes  Litiiya  IJay,  256,  271 ;  expe- 
dition of,  307,  47S,  4S1,  O02. 
La  Pierre's  House,  103,  430. 
La  Place,  f«2. 
Lark,  wreck  of  ship,  328. 
Larriown,  51  ;   description  of,  52;   as  a  shaman, 

I((3,  22fl,  43S 

L.isareff,  Michael  Petrovich,  in  charge  of  the  Su- 
warrow.  329. 

Lastochkin,  Lebedeff,  318;  visits  Copper  River, 
318. 

Leather  village,  220. 

Lebarpe  •  ike,  277,  279. 

Lt-bargc,  Michael,  8,  25  :  .iccompanies  Ketchuni, 
56,  240,  2S4,  2S9,  357.  507. 

Lebrun,  603. 

Lehigh,  Pa.,  coal,  475. 

Lena  River.  535. 

I.en/.,  K.,  603. 

Leporid.r  of  Alaska,  577. 

I.eshinski  divulges  a  conspiracy,  325. 

Lesnoi  Island,  24S. 

Levasheff,  Lieutenant,  explores  I'ox  Islands,  304. 

I.evasheff.  (KJ3. 

Lewis  and  Clark  descend  the  Ccihiinbla,  323. 

Lewis  River,  27'^.,  277,  441,  50^. 

Liard  River,  io(.,  112.  2c)i,  292,  337,  340,  429. 

Lincoln,  ships  built  bv,  326. 

Lindenberi;'s  re>earchos,  339. 

Linn,  member  of  Congress  from  Missouri,  341. 

Lisiansky,  expedition  under,  321,  323;  his  descrip- 
tion of  Indians,  430,  481,  O03. 


Little  Sidorka,  55. 

Lituya  Day,  251),  307,  478 ;  fish  in,  484. 

Lobos  Islands,  492. 
I  Lockhart,  349. 

Lofka,  the  Indian,  31,  51,  283. 

Lofka's  barrabora,  210, 
I   Long,  Captain  Tlieodore,  250,  509. 

Long  Strait,  509. 

Look-and  see-it  River,  85. 

Looncap  village,  224. 

Loucheux  Indians,  431. 

Lowrie,  Captain,  308. 

Lukcen,  Ivan  Simonsen,  274,  276;  ascends  Yukon, 
276 ;  establishes  post  at  Kuskoquim,  336  ;  fort, 

275.  340.  355.  357. 
Lutke,  Captain  I'.,  230,  335,  481,  (03. 
Lynn  Canal  explored,  317,  339,  471. 
Lynn  Channel,  250,  271,  411. 


M. 

Macao,  307,  335. 

Mackenzie,  Alexander,  315,  604. 

Mackenzie  River,  28,  101,  284,  334,  338,  344,  373, 

401,  40r),  428. 

Macmillau  River,  278,  429. 

Mactavish  River,  328. 

McClure,  Robert  S.  Le  M.,  344,  345,  346. 

McDonald,  Rev.  Mr.,  103,  105,  no,  280. 

McDougal,  J.,  103,  105,  206. 

McLeod,  John,  337. 

McLeod,  Peter,  yi,  277. 

McMurray  builds  I'ort  Yukon,  102,  276;  descends 

Porcupine  River,  342. 
McRae,  Lieutenant,  336. 
Magemuts,  tribe  of,  407. 
Maguire,  Commodore  Rochefort,  34O,  fio4. 
Mahlemuts,  tribe  of,   14  ;  bidarra,  135 ;  morals  of, 

1 39,  407.  409. 
Maliood,  James  A.,  356. 
Major's  Cove  visited  by  Kennicott,  20,  125,  150, 

2(7. 
Mak-iutoff  supersedes  I-'uruhelm,  35";. 
Makushin  liay,  289;  voUano,  4'i7,  4118,  4CK),  470. 
MalakolT,   12  ;  builds  a  trading-post,  ^f■,  273,  276, 

337.  339.  341. 
Malcspina,  lajitain  A.,  313. 
Mauatido;  of  Alaska,  578. 
Manchoos,  tribe  of,  522,  523. 
Manki,  village  of,  223,  407. 
Mamiheiin  on  the  Rhine,  451. 
M.ips  of  Alaska,  2c>o. 

M.ircliaiul,  I'aplain  Iv,  313,  ('0^  ;  vide  I'leurlcu. 
Mavia  Louisa  River,  2<>^,  275. 
M.iria,  the  vessel.  322. 
M.irrnot  Island.  24**. 

Marri.ige  in  Russian  America,  11,  12,  139. 
Marston.  Captain,  356. 
Marton,  birthplace  of  Captain  Cook,  306. 
Mary  M.igdalene,  the  ship,  330. 


620 


INDEX. 


5'7- 


J4  ,  descriplion  of,  2J7  : 
Kumaii  Cilliolic,  3-'8 ; 


Masa  Kiicro  Islnml,  4^,2. 
Massacre  at  N'ulato,  33i< 
Mailay,  a8. 
MaA.itian,  344. 

Mearus,  CafXaiii  John,  30S,  joq. 
Mcares's  drcal  .Arcliipelago,  250. 
Meares's  voyages,  (104. 
Mtdvcilnlkdff  coiiimamls  the  Tlirce  Saints, 
MedveiliiikofT  volcano,  3S7,  467. 
Mevk  and  lilancli.ird  arrive  at  Sitka,  334. 
Meek,  K.  I!.,  457. 
Meeshka,  28. 

MeUuikakat  River,  84,  282. 
Melville  Sonnd,  345  :  Island,  346. 
Merck,  I)r.  I'arl,  310. 
Mercy  Hay,  345. 
Merlens,  the  botanist,  453. 
Mexican  War,  34J. 

Micliaelovski    Redoubt,   description  of,  g,   10;  at- 
tack by  the  Lnalijimuts,  «>;  defended  by  Kuru- 

paiioff,  10 
Milavanoff  River,  231,  2S3. 
Milton  li.adKer,  the  schooner,  356. 
Mineral  springs,  472  et  siij. 
Minnesota,  3sS. 
Minto  Inlet,  34s, 
Miskuml'kakat  River,  282. 
Missionary  labor,  iii. 
Missions,   iiS,   145,  223,  : 

at    Kkogmnt,   2S3,   2)1 

districts,  351. 
MiikotT,  Captain,  345. 
Mock  snns,  40 

Mongolian  featmes,  376,  519. 

Monroe,  James,  Secretary  of  State,  announces  re- 
occupation  of  Astoria  by  the  United  States,  329. 
Montague  Island,  257. 
Moore,  Captain  Tbonias  K.  L.,  343,  511. 
Mordoffski,  Kaiher,  333. 
Moroscovich,  I..  S  ,  296. 
Morrell,  tiaptain  llenjaniin,  41J2. 
Morse  setllemcnl,  jOo. 
Mor7.ho»i  Island,  24S. 
Moscow,  330. 
Motora,  Simeon,  295. 
Mount  liaUer,  342, 

"        llendeleben,  28;> 

"        Calder,  289. 

"        Crillon,  2S1). 

"        Devastation,  2S). 

"        Diablo,  475. 

"        I'.ilt;ccunil)e,  259,  ;S).  30^),  313,  317. 

"        I'airwealher,  2S9,  428. 

"        Ilolionila,  281), 

"        Kcnnicott,  270,  289,  512.       : 

"        Kollo,  280. 

"        San  Jacinto,  254,  jod. 

"        Shishaldin,  2S9. 

"        St.  Klias,  281),  306,  340,  342,  350,  401,  428. 

"       St.  Helen,  470. 


Mount  St.  Paul,  342. 

"        VeniaminolT,  470. 

"       Vostovia,  471. 

"        Wrangell,  289,  4'Kj. 
Mountain  ranj,es,  280  -  290. 
Mountains,  height  of,  2S9. 
Mueller,  Ci.  K.,  ^104. 
Muganolwik  River,  2^3,  275. 
Muller  cited,  515,  522. 
Mumford,  (1.  H.,  292. 
Mtniich,  climate  of,  451. 
MurashelT,  the  explorer,  340. 
MuravietT,  Captain,  Director  of  the  Colonies,  332, 

334.  33''.  337- 
Murderer's  ViiUagc,  220. 
Muridx-  of  Alaska,  577. 
Music,  Indian,  199. 
Mustelid.e  of  Alaska,  ^■;(i. 
Myhiikuff  organizes  a  company,  317. 


Nadcshda,  the  ship,  321. 

Na-Run-alayeksa  Island,  529. 

Naknek  River,  261,  273. 

Nanaimo  coal,  475. 

NaplakolT,  conspiracy  of,  325. 
[   Nassc  Indians,  411. 

Nasse  River,  251,  270,  415,  485. 

Natche  Kutchin  tribe,  109,  430. 
i   Nearer  Islands,  247  ;  explored  by  Rybinski,  302, 

333- 
Nebraska,  45S. 
Nehaunees,  tribe  of,  429. 
Nerpichoi  Islands,  i(n. 
Netsvieloff,  Father,  334. 
Neva,  the  ship,  321. 
Nevelsky,  Captain,  345. 
NevodtsikotT,  Michael,  his  voyage,  301,  302. 
New  Archangel,  254,  323,  412. 
New,  Lieutenant,  314. 
New  Russia,  settlement  of,  316. 
New  Westminster,  35^.,  506. 
New  York,  climate  of,  451. 
Newberry,  Prolessor  J.  S.,  474,  476. 
Newcastle  coal,  475 
Newenharn,  I'ape,  331. 
Newfoundland,  banks  of,  482. 
Niakina  Cove,  270,  299,  516,  530 
Nightingale,  the  shiji,  in  Norton  Sound,  3;  saiU 

for  Plover  Hay,  8,  65,  357,  35S. 
Nijni  Kamchatka,  2^5. 
Nijni  Kolyinsk,  270,  51). 
Nikolai  I.,  the  ship,  339,  341  :  loss  of,  349. 
NikolaiiTsk,  526. 
Nookmut,  village  of,  2(..8,  408. 
Nootka  Sound,  discovered  by  ."erez,  3t,'!  :  entered 

by  American  ships  in  1708,  3o<j,  313,  484. 
Noquashinski  l!ay,  471. 
Norfolk  Sound,  313. 


INDEX. 


621 


North  Fork  of  Siikine  River,  271. 
Norlli  Sl.ir,  the  ship,  347. 
Norton  Day,  147. 

Norton  Sound,  ,,;,,  ,y,,  „;  ;  Nightingale  anchors 
in,  3  ;  effect  of  wind  on  depth  of  water  in,   3, 
113,   II?;    festivities  .it.   154,   .46,  jr,;,   284,   jS;,' 
193,  340,  344.  345,  350,  355,  337,  .  ,s,  5j,  .    |„„„|( 
of,   404.   403.   4"8,    409,    4,0.    z^;,    440,    405,    4S4, 
4'*8.  S3-'- 
Norway  House,  344. 
Notarmi,  4S;  commands  at  Nulato,  288. 
Niiidkakat  River,  100,  ;8o. 
Nowikakat,  village  of,  85,  276. 
Nowikakat  River,  description  of,  S(,,  2S2,  341,  3,5. 
Nowikakat  Mountains,  ;SS. 
N'tsoh,  vill.ige  of,  35. 
Nuchek  harbor,  factory  at,  318,  336. 
Nukhikahyet,  village  of,  86,  ,,3,  if,,  28.',  43S,  442. 
Nulato,  23,  40,  43  ;  m.ide  headquarters,  44  ;  de- 
scription of,  44-49;  I.icut.   liarnard  arrives  at, 
4S ;  massacre  at,  50,  65  ;  expedition  starts  from, 
74;  distance  from  to  Turt  Yukon,   102,   124:  ob-  ' 
servations  at,  .9.  ;  deiMrlure  of  Sclenlilic  Corps 
fron.,  207,  276,  282,  2S3.  34,,  34,,  3^8,  ,-8.  ^7,. 
Nulato  Rucr,  (,,  47.  r,(,,  (,., ;  breaking  up  of,  205.       I 
Nulato  tribe,  attacked  by  the  Koyukuns,  4.J,  50. 
Nunarbook  Island,  246. 

Niniatok  River,  432.  i 

Nunivak,  137,  ?4q.  2U2,  332,  406.  I 

Niishergagmuts,  tribe  of,  405.  ! 

Nushergak  River,  4,  273,  275,  289,  292,  33,,  33,,,   I 

■IT).  351.  35-.  400,  405.  4'''4.  479. 
Nuwungmeun,  name  of  I'oint  LSarrow  Iribe,  410. 


Otter  hunting,  ^9,c,  ef  sej. 
Ougamok  Island,  248. 


O. 

Obi  River,  284. 
Observatory  at  Sitka,  337.  340. 
Observatory  Canal,  251  ;  Inlet,  270. 
<  kean  currents,  2V5. 

( )chotsk,  first  vessel  built  at,  2 17.  330  ;  goveniincnt 
I'f.  333.  34>  :  vessel,  348  ;  sea,  356,  482,  4S3,  502  ; 
tribes  on,  51,8,  522,  532. 
Oglemuls,  tribe  of,  405,  4of). 
Oke-ognints,  tribe  of,  249,  409. 
Olga,  the  brig,  -i-^d.  , 

One'l'iee  C'.mp,  i(^. 
Ontario,  the  sloop  <if  war,  330. 
Onug-anngemut  village,  2^.4, 

Orarian,  a  name  proposed  for  the  tribes  of  Eskimo 
stocl     173  ;  on  Chukchee  I'eninsula,  374 ;  in  gen- 
eral, 37J  el  sej  ,  404  ;  stock,  520. 
Oregon,  bill  |„r  occupation  of,  34,  ;  climate  of.  448. 
Orinoco  River,  284. 
Orkney  Islands,  103,  445  ;  .i.:;ricnlture  of,  447,  449, 

.'>03- 
f)rnamenls  worn  by  Indians,  141, 
Oserski  I!ay,  253. 
Ostrofskoi,  131. 
Otis,  Dr.,  on  .aboriginal  crania,  410. 


Pacific  Fur  Company,  organization  of,  326,  328 
3 -'9-  ' 

Pacific  Railroad,  475, 
Pallas,  Dr.  P.  .S  ,  (,04. 
Pallonoi  Point,  158. 
Palmetto,  the  bark,  357. 
Papoosh,  name  for  bunches  of  tobacco,  533 
Paramushir  Island,  5>3. 
Parenosa  liay,  472. 
I  Parry,  Arctic  expedition  of,  331,  334. 
I  Paspilkoff,  61. 

;  I'asiol  Bay.  147,  264,  265,  266. 
I   I'astoliak  River,  jW),  284. 
Pasloligmuts,  tribe  of,  407. 

Pastohk,  14,  1,9,  ,37;  description  of,  236,  2C6,  2S4, 
,       407- 
Paul,  the  Emperor,  protects  trading,  60,  318. 
Paulosk,  399. 
Pavloff,  172. 
I  I'avloff  volcano,  289,  466.  4^,7,  470  ;  Hay,  469. 

Pavlutski,  Cajitain  Dcm.'trius,  298. 
,   Pe.icc.  exploring  vessel,  331. 
i   Peacock,  the  sloop  of  war,  359,  340. 
I   Pearl,  the  brig,  333,  334. 

Pease,  Charles.  6,  357, 
'   Peel's  Ri\er,  103,  2,So,  2S7,  507. 
Peetka.  son  of  Kan,  52. 
Peircc.  I!   M  ,  his  report,  449, 
IVIly  Hanks  Fort,  508. 
Pclly  Lakes,  278,  292. 
Pelly  River,  278  ;  Indians  on,  429,  441. 
Pemmican  as  food,  136. 
Penjiiisk  Gulf,  295,  298,  357. 

Pennsylvania,  .Agricultural  College  of,  44,  ;  coal- 
fields of,  474. 
Perez  Inlet,  306. 
Perez.  Juan,  discovers  Queen  Charlotte's  Island, 

3^'5- 
Peril  Island,  250. 
Perry,  Commodore,  346. 

Peter  the  Great  prepares  an  expedition  to  Ameri- 
ca, 297. 
Petermann,  Dr.  A  ,  27S  ;  his  map,  2(jo. 
Peters,  Captain,  307. 
I'elroleum,  259. 
Pciropavlovsk,  270,  299  ;  vessel,  320,  330,  332,  355, 

343.  347-  34S.  357.  35^  5''' :  hordes  at,  51S,  530. 
Philaclel|iliia,  climate  of,  451. 
PlillalotT,  C.iptain,  333. 
Philippine  Islands,  330. 
IMiocid.r-  of  Alaska.  577. 
I'lmiiix.  \\i\ck  of  ship,  326. 
I'liyset.-rid.i'  of  Alaska,  578. 
Pikimktalik  River,  239,  265,  266,  2S4. 
Pim,  Captain  Bedford,  52,  345,  346. 


622 


INDEX. 


II 


Pinik  Islands,  Jiq. 

Pinnacle  liilanci,  }<)8. 

Pinnipcilia  of  Alaska,  577.  * 

Pipes,  liibacco,  81. 

Pittsburg,  Pa.,  coal,  475. 

Pla.  i  for  sciLMiiilic  operations  approved,  6. 

PI;.i<)fT,  building  of  scliooiicr,  330. 

Plavc/.linoi  Lake,  341. 

Plover  Hay,  4,  JSOi  269,  389,  343,  357,  358,  375,  379, 

465,  511,  514. 
Plover,  the  ship,  343,  344. 
Plymouth,  344. 
I'odushkin,  Captain,  328. 
I'ogitcha  explored  by  Michael  Sladukin,  295. 
Point  Azia^akak,  264. 

"      Harrow,  250,  26.;,  335,  33S,  339,  344,  345.  34^'. 
401,  409. 

"     Cornwallis,  253. 

"      Ktolin,  405. 

"     Clrenville,  305. 

"      Hope,  269. 

"     Nome,  2f)8. 

"      kodney,  26S. 

"      KonianolV,  2f>4,  265. 

"      Woodhnuse,  253. 
Polar  Sea,  509. 

Polish  exiles  conquer  a  garrison,  305. 
Polygamy  in  Kenai,  317. 
Ponafidin,  Captain,  332. 
Pope,  Krank  I,.,  355,  356,  357. 
Pope's  River,  275. 
Poplar  Creek,  39. 
PopotT  Island,  259. 

PopolT,  Peter,  131,  297  ;  conspiracy  of,  325,  375. 
Populati<m  of  Alaska,  537. 
Population  of  Yukon  I'erritory,  224. 
Porcupine  River,  6,   loj,   105,  276,  280,  287,  32S, 

342.  430.  43".  47J.  507.  50S. 
Porpoise,  the  bri.i;,  339. 
PorsanikofT,  the  Aleut,  397. 
Port  Cliathani,  25?. 

"    Clarence,  26S,  346,  357,  408,  410. 

"    Conclusion,  315. 

"     Klches,  257. 

"    Krancais,  250. 

"    Cardiier,  251,  473. 

"    Miiller,  261,  472. 

"     I'rovidence,  jii. 

"     Trinidad,  "03. 
Portland  Canal,  245,  251,  313,  411. 
Portlock,  Captain,  308. 
Potifar,  the  brig,  339. 
Premorska  village,  223. 
Prevost,  J.  n.,  330. 
Pribyloir  Islands,  24S,  30S,  331,  335,  337,  350,  400, 

469,  470,  47  3,  47S,  481,  484,  499. 
Price,  Admiral,  suicide  of,  347. 
Prince  Albert  Island,  345. 
Prince  of  Wales   Island,   245,   250 ;    Strait,   345, 

467. 


Prince  William  Sound,  248,  452. 
I'roboscidea  of  Alaska,  577. 
Proclainatioii  of  purchase  of  Alaska,  359. 
Progrumnoi  volcano,  ^(y),  472. 
Promishleniks'  discoveries,  304. 
I'uget  Sound,  258,  294,  357,  453. 
Pullen,  Lieutenant,  344. 
Pushkarelf's  Lxpcdition,  302. 
Pye  Island,  25R. 


Quadra,  Captain  Hodcga  y,  treats  witli  Vancouver. 

3'4- 
Queen  Charlotte's  Archipelago,  Indians  on,  411. 
Queen   Charlotte's    Island,  discovered   by   I'ere/., 

305  :  slate  quarry  on,  411,  415  ;  coal  on,  47a 

R. 

Racoon,  the  sloop  of  war,  32S. 

Uaduga  cited,  605. 

Rainfall  in  Alaska,  437,  43S. 

Ramparls  of  the  Yukon,  281,  284. 

Rasbinik  village,  229. 

Rat  India:is,  lot). 

Rat  River,  2^0,  32S. 

RatmanofT  Island,  246,  249,  269;  mountains,  289. 

Rattlesnake,  the  ship,  34^). 

Raymond,  Capl;  in,  280  ;  his  surveys,  283. 

Raynor,  Captain,  250. 

Red  Lcggins,  Indian  Chief,  no. 

Redoubt  Constaiitine  an<l  I'.lcna,  257. 

Redoubt  St.  Mich.acl's,  arrive  at,  3,  338. 

Red(nibt  volcano,  289,  469. 

Reid  Mouse,  279. 

Relief,  the  store-ship,  339. 

Religious  views  of  Indians,  ,SS,  89,  iii,  145  ;  dances, 

3^1)  et  seij. ;  superstitions,  391  <7  jiv/- 
Renfrewshire,  444. 
Reports,  medical,  122;  scientific,  122;  Oolovin's, 

353- 
ResanofT,    Count,    322 ;    institutes   reforms,    323 . 

sketch  of,  323  -  325. 
Resolute,  the  ship,  346,  347. 
Restwick,  rainfall  at,  445. 
Resurrection  l!ay,  25H  ;  vessels  built  in,  316,  319, 

344. 
Return  Reef,  355.  462. 
Revel,  birlliplace  of  Kot/ebuc,  329. 
Rev  and  Pritton's  chart,  290. 
Richardson,  Sir  John,  331,  409,  492,  530,  605. 
Ricord,  in  charge  ol  the  Diana,  325,  3-'(). 
Riedell,  Captain,  240,  342,  344,  466. 
Ringgold,  Captain,  347. 
Rio  del  Reyes,  314. 
River  volcano,  28,;. 
Robertson.  Rev.  Dr.,  cited,  fKjj. 
Rocquefeuil,  Caniille  de,  cited,  330,  f)05. 
Rocky  Mountain  Kxpedition,  Fremont's,  341. 
I  Koduntia  of  Alaska,  577. 


INDEX. 


623 


159- 


li  Vancouver, 

liis  on,  41 1. 
:cl   by   I'erci, 
I  on,  47a 


untains,  iSij. 

,  2S.V 

138. 

,  145 :  dances, 

Golovin's, 
■forms,    3^3 , 

in,  316,  ji;. 


30,  605. 

id. 


t's,  J41. 


Romnn  rrilliiilic  nilssinnarieB,  338. 

Ktjin.iiiott,  I'oiiil,  1 1<>. 

Koniaiuod  Hay  (see  Bodega),  332  ;  Cape,  40(1,  407  ; 
KaiiBe,  286. 

Ronian/iiff,  Count,  321),  477. 

Koinan^olT  Mounl.ilns,  101,  286. 

Kosniarid.u  of  Alaska,  577. 

Ross,  Arctic  expedition  ol',  331,  42S,  ^5,  606. 

Ross,  licrnanl  R.,  112, 

Ross  Colony  in  California,  the,  274,  3::o.  31'  : 
Scliniiill  director  of,  s^i,  )J5,  338  ;  sold,  341. 

Ross  district  in  Scotland,  447. 

Rotlirock,  Dr.  J.  T.,  his  report,  35^1,  441,  452. 

Rousseau,  (ieneral  I,.,  arrives  at  Sitka,  1S4;  ofTi- 
cially  receives  Alaska,  351/ 

Roys,  Captain,  343. 

Rurik,  the  brig,  sails  from  St.  PelcrsburK,  329. 

RusanolT,  S.  S.,  commander  of  Uistrict  of  St. 
Michael,  11. 

Rusclienberj;cr  cited,  606. 

Russia  and  U-  ed  .Slates  land  (picstions,  333  et 
seq.  ;  connection  with  (ireat  iJritain,  334;  treaty 
with,  50J. 

Russian  .Xnieric.i,  rumor  of  purchase  of,  117,  lu); 
rumor  cunlirmed,  iSi  ;  iiegoti.iiioiis  (or  sale  of, 
35H. 

Russian  American  Company,  workmen  of,  11; 
wages  of  workmen,  12  ;  (.harts  of,  2(x) ;  organisa- 
tion of,  318  ;  monopolizes  fur  trade,  320  ;  arranges 
witli  John  Jacob  Asior,  327,  329  ;  its  settlements, 
331  ;  charter  renewed,  332,  341,  347  ;  diRkulties, 
336,  33S  ;  facts  concerning,  349,  350  ;  treatment 
of  Aleuts,  350-353:  favors  .igriculturc,  449, 
452  ;  trades  in  ice,  479,  498,  501,  522. 

Russian  calendar,  59. 

Russian  charts,  2(>o,  533  ;  explorations,  292. 

Russian  children,  OS. 

Russian  settlement  in  Cdifornia   32s. 

Rybinski  explores  the  N'e.arer  Islands,  302. 

S. 

.Sacc.italontan,  291. 

Saginaw  Ii.\v,  252  ;  the  stc.imer,  357. 

St.  Ambrose  Isl.ind,  492. 

in.  Chrysostom  harbor,  25S. 

St.  Demetrius,  vessel  built,  319  ;  wreck  of,  322. 

St.  Dicmysius,  trading-post,  258. 

St.  Klias  Range,  2Sft. 

St.  I'elix  Island,  492. 

St.  (jeorge  Island,  240,  248,  259,  471,  479,  491,  496, 

502. 
St.  Ifelen,  Mount,  470. 
St.  John,  New  lirunswick,  277. 
St.  John's  liay,  471,  474. 
St.  Lawrence  I'ay,  37^,  515. 
St.  Lawrence  Island,  313,  330,  3S0,  471. 
St.  Mary  Magdalen.i,  the  ship,  322. 
St.  Matthew  Islands,  248,  24.),  32!),  335,  471. 
St.  Michael's  Island,  2116,  27O,  4(15,  472,  486,  500. 


St.  Michael's  Redoubt,  arrival  al,  3,  4,  fi ;  inmates 
of,  II  ;  p.irly  al,  121  ;  (  i.na  Hell  arrives  at,  121, 
22'..  2(15,  344,  355,  358,  438,  442. 

St.  Nicholas  Kedoubt,  259. 

St.  Nicholas  settlement,  452. 

St.  Nikol.ii,  loss  of  ship,  325. 

St.  r.iul,  Minnesota,  358. 

St.  I'aul,  the  ship,  299. 

St.  Paul's,  248,  259,  313;  settlement  at,  314;  har- 
bor, 322,  334,  342,  44,,,  471,   473,  4H3,  4g|,  ^ijO. 

St.  Peter,  the  ship,  i)i). 

St.  Petersburg,  Hank  of,  3.-o. 

St.  Peter-.b'irg,  the  Snwarrow  sails  for,  329  ;  expe- 
dition from,  3 to;  ships  from,  335,  34.;,  3(^7,  453, 
48(1,  491,  501. 

Sakalin  Island,  347,  482,  522,  523,  525. 

Sakhi'.iti,  Indian  chief,  107. 

Salt  from  California,  3)5. 

SamoylolT,  cxpeililion  under,  317. 

San  HIas,  31). 

.San  Francisco,  detention  in  harbor,  4 ;  ice  for,  346, 

I       347.  3.=i5.  4^3.  50>. 
j   .Sanak  IslamI,  467. 
'  Sand.s,  Captain,  356. 
\  Sandlinann,  Ciplain,  35''i. 

Sandwich  Islands,  329,  528;  trade  with,  342,  343, 
353.  4''5.  SOi- 

Sandy  Island,  iOj. 

Sankt  I'elerbmgski  VIcdomati,  606. 

.SarychtfT,  (iavrila,  cited,  406. 

SarychelT  volcano,  4^8. 

Sanr,  Martin,  Seiretary  of  llillings's  Kxpedition, 
310;  his  journey,  370,  doO. 

Scammon  Hay,  2^4. 

Scanunon,  Captain  C.  M.,  3,  2G4  ;  his  survey,  291, 
355.  35<'  -  35'''- 

Schemelin,  !•'  ,  cited,  6c/). 

Schloc/er,  J.  L.  S.,  cited,  (Jo6. 

.Schmidt,  Director  of  Koss  colony,  332. 

.SclKilield,  John  M.,  .Secretary  of  War,  372. 

Schools,  339,  341,  351,  352. 

Scientific  Corps  of  Telegraph  Expedition,  4,  457, 

527- 
Sciurid.r  of  Alaska,  577. 
Scoresby,  VV.,  cited,  (<oC>. 
Scotland,  climate  of,  445  <7  sef. 
Scoville,  Kdward,  his  surveys,  292,  356. 
Sea  Cull,  the  schooner,  339. 
Sea  Lion,  wreck  of,  3 id. 
Seal  fisheries,  492  et  seq. 
Seal  Island,  2r'0. 
Sebaslopol,  fall  of,  348. 
Seducticm  Tongue,  252. 
Seemann,  Dr.,  440,  484. 
Seguam  Island,  247,  302. 
.Seguani  volcano,  4d7,  478. 
Selawik  R  Iver,  269,  284  ;  Lake,  269,  284,  407. 
Seliverstoff,  296, 
Selkirk,  Fott,  517,  508. 
Semichi  Islands,  247. 


624 


INDEX. 


Sciniili  Islands,  250. 

Seiiiiso|«ichii(ii  Island,  247,  jRo,  4f7,  471. 

Semitic  Iradilinns  in  ellinulipgy,  J74. 

Seniavine  Strails,  .^Sj. 

Seniavine,  tlic  corvelle,  315. 

SerebranikiifT,  272  ;  ascends  Copper  River,  342. 

Seven  Craters,  peak  nf,  sSq. 

Seven  I'eaks  Island,  247. 

Seward,  W.  II.,  vs?  -  .!7-'.  f'o6. 

Slialiclsky,  Acliillc,  cited,  (k>(i. 

SliaHeliik  Slough,  220,  221,  2^2,  283, 

Sliaktolik,  24,  is:!.  2i'4i  288,  407. 

Sliaman  Mountain,  10,  41,  5'),  471. 

Shamanism,  Part  I.,  ct  passim. 

Shantar  Islands,  2  17. 

Slieddcn,  Robert,  344. 

Sheep  River,  2S0. 

Sheerness,  34.". 

Slielikoflr  Company,   its  ciuclty,   316  ;    organized, 

317;  opens  schools,  ju. 
Slielikofl"   receives   ntedil,    309;    inonopoli/.es   fur 

trade,  310,  3if> ;  death  of,  317  ;  cited,  f>o6. 
ShelikofT  Stiait,  ..'5;;  explored,  .:,2<>;  Lake,  273. 
Slienardo.di,  the  pirate,  4S7. 
SlieslakolT  attack?  the  t  liiikchees,  2i)S,  375. 
Shillinglaw,  John  J,  ;  cited,  607. 
Shishaldin  volcano,  4^7,  469,  470,  478. 
ShishmarelT  Inlet,  26S,  331. 
Sluihrick,  revenne  cntler,  358. 
Shultz  explores  l.itiiya  Hay,  317  ;  death  of,  319. 
Shinna!;in  Islands,  24S,  259.  2'<(\  350  ;  area,  290 ; 

discovered  by  Lieutenant  Wa.xel,  300. 
Shydekin,  I'eter,  326. 
Siberia,  convicts  from,  11. 
SieinenotT  cited,  (107. 

Sierra  Nevada  range,  457  ;  glaciers  of,  45S. 
Silliman's  Journal  cited,  52(1. 
Simpson  and  Deasc's  Kxpedition,  33S. 
Simpson,  Sir  (Jeorge,  340,  481,  521. 
Simpson,  Thomas,  462  ;  cited,  607. 
Sinkinp;  Point,  257. 
Sirenia  of  Alaska,  578. 
Sitignak  volcano,  467,  473. 
Sitka,  4,  iSi  ;  Ceneral  Rousseau  arrives  at,   184, 

253,   254,  255:   Hay,  319,  412;  observations  at, 

337.  351.  35-'.  415.  4^5.  443  't  S'-Q;  47-.  4^4: 
schools  at,  34T  ;  ship  built  at,  326,  332. 

Sitka,  the  brig,  325. 

Sitka-kwan  Indians,  34^.,  412,  437. 

Sitkin  Island,  247;  volcano,  289. 

Sitkinak  Island,  248. 

Sitzikiinlen  River,  282. 

Skoot  River,  270. 

Slavarassi  Hay,  260  ;  Colony,  321. 

Slavery,  420. 

Slaves  freed  by  a  chief,  339. 

Slavianka  River,  327. 

Sledge  Island,  13S,  268. 

Sleds,  Kskimo,  26  ;  Innult,  165  ;  Hudson  Bay, 
1O5  ;  Ingalik,  1O6, 


Small  Houses,  27^.,  277. 

Small-pox  at  Sitka,  V)**.  130- 

Smith,  I'aptain  K.  V..,  S,  (..,,  240,  2f>3,  175,  177,  406. 

Smith,  K.  I'l'^hine,  370,  372. 

Smith,  V.  M  ,  acting  surgeon,  25. 

Smithsonian  Inslitiiiion,  112,  114,  202,  475,  476. 

Smoking,  manner  ol.  81. 

.Snow-shoes,  dilTerent  kinds  of,  190. 

Snug  Harbor,  2'.9,  513. 

SokololT,  cited,  ^107. 

Solfataras,  4(17. 

.Solide,  the  ship,  313. 

SolokolT,  lather,  arrives  at  Sitka.  330. 

SoloviotT,  I.  M  ,  expedition  under,  304.  350. 

Soonkakat  River.  282. 

Sopka,  Koynkuk,  2S2  ;  Vesolia,  3S,  77,  1S5,  2S9. 

^orcery,  pr.ittice  of,  424. 

ih  Pacific  Islands,  491. 
>,iulh  .Slu'lland,  492. 
Sowlt's,  taplain,  313. 
Spanberi;.    Lieutenant   Martin,    297  ;  explores  the 

Knrile  Islands,  2. ,<;. 
Spaniards    claim   northwest   coast,    ^a^ :  interfeie 

with  traders,  310,  311  ;  at  San  Francisco,  327. 
Spanish  expedition,  307. 
SpavariefT  Hay,  407. 
Springs,  36. 

Spruce  Island,  259,  339,  349. 
Squirt/.olT  makes  first  telegraph  pole,  59. 
Stadukin,  Michael,  explores  the  Pogitcha,  29S1  509. 
St.aehlin,  J.  M.,  cited,  607. 
Stakhin-kwan  tribe,  34^),  411, 
Staniiikovich,  Captain,  335. 
StarichkolT  River,  273. 
Starry  Rwikhpak  vill.ige,  229. 
Staten  Land,  492. 

Steele,  Francis  L.,  the  schooner,  240. 
Steller,  ('..  W.,  299;  cited,  (107. 
Stepanoff,   12,   13,   122,  4)8;    Dall's  arrangement 

with,  123. 
Stephen's  Pass,  250,  253.  271. 
Stephen's  Stiait,  340. 
Sicrlingshire,  445. 

Stewart,  agent  of  Russian  American  Company,  341. 
Stewart  River,  279. 
Stikine  River,  252,  271,  291,  337,  342,348,  357,462, 

464  ;  gold  deposits,  477. 
Stockton.  Commodore,  343. 
Sloeckl,  Edward  de,  negotiates  treaty  for  Ahaska, 

359  -  37-»- 
Stop-a-bil  River,  ^(t. 
Stoves,  Russian,  9. 
Strahlenberg,  (107. 

Straits  of  Fuca,  294,  308,  313.  314,  340, 
Stuart,  David,  327;  Robert,  328. 
Stuart  Isliind,  4.  5,  24.  266. 
Stuckenberg,  J.  C,  607. 
Suboff  Islands,  30S. 
Suchitna  River.  258  ;  explored  by  MaKikofT,  273, 

ay-!.  337.  34'.  4&4- 


INDKX. 


625 


Sue,  EiiBone,  1ih  Wnndoriiig  Jew,  511 

Siilim.i  Kivtr,  i'D,  J73. 

.Sulphur,  the  ship,  jjS. 

Sulphur  springs,  34^  :  deposits  of,  47.S. 

Sumner,  C'h.nrles,  his  speech  on  Al.isk.i,  607. 

Superior,  I..Tkc,  4S0. 

Superior,  the  ship,  54^,  4S7. 

Superstitions,  SS-tjo. 

SutherLiiul,  in  Scothiiul,  st.ilistics  of,  447. 

Sutler,  L'.ipt.iin  John,  buys  Uoss  settlement,  341, 

Suw.itli.i,  orij;in.il  of  Av.itch.i,  5^. 

Suw.irrow,  the  ship,  321),  3)0. 

.Swan,  J.  (i.,  liled,  607. 

Swet/olT,  expedition  under,  jji. 

.Swift,  Cipl.iin,  3.'5. 

.Synd,  l.ieutcn.mt,  expedition  under,  304. 

r. 

T.ig.i!.iN.i  Island,  247. 

Tahco  River,  271,  277,  35S,  441,  477,  50S ;  Lake, 
507;  identicai  wuh  laku,  OjS. 

Takajaksen  tribe,  4  jj. 

'laku  River,  340,  OjS. 

'I'anaBa  Island,  j6o. 

'I'anaga  Pass,  148. 

Tanaga  IVak,  jS.),  4^,7. 

Tanak-Angunakh,  4'i,j. 

■lananah  Indians,  107;  h.ibits  of,  108. 

Tananali  Kivcr  joins  the  Yukon,  57,  8j,  v3<  iSi, 
431- 

Tannra  Island,  247. 

Tarakanoff,   I'imothcus,  321,  325. 

TarcnintT  rescued  by  Kennicott,  70. 

'I'atla  Lake,  357. 

'I'atsah  Kntchin  tribe,  431. 

'J'atschei;no  tribe,  432. 

Tatsun-ikhtun  River,  yg. 

Tattooinu  nnionj;  the  Indi.ins,  140. 

Tattooinc,  praclite  of,  3S1. 

Tayakhonsiti  Harbor,  251. 

TcbenkolT,  Michael,  y;  his  cliart,  250,  336,  338, 
342,  343,  34^  f«'7- 

'I'ebenkoffs  Cove,  11,  2W). 

'reealiiik«ik  River,  275. 

Tekunka,  (••^. 

Telec/liik,  the  Interpreter,  3;,  52,  221. 

'lelegraph,  first  pole  erected,  $^,  (^  ;  erecting  poles, 
72,  254,  264,  270,  290,  2<)i,  292;  pl.m  liir  from 
San  Francisco  to  liering  Strait,  355  ;  organiza- 
tion nf  expeilition,  355,  35S,  457,  507,  511. 

Tcnnuth-Kulchin,  habits  of,  loS,  411. 

TeiakanofT,  expedition  under,  321,  325. 

Terra  del  Fuego,  492. 

Terror,  the  ship,  343. 

'J'hlin!;ets,  256 ;  hostile  to  Russians,  320 ;  battle 
with,  321,  322  ;  trade  with  Russians,  325,  342, 
346,  348,  354  ;  description  of  the  tribe,  411  vi  scq, 

Thijegonchotana  tribe,  432. 

40 


Thomas,  Captain,  500. 

'ihompson,  laplain,  457. 

J'hompson,  |)avid,  527. 

Thome,  Captain,  s.iils  liir  Aslor,  336. 

Thoiiars,  Unpelit,  visits  northwest  co.ist,  338. 

Three  Saints'  Hay,  251). 

Three  Saints,  the  ship,  317. 

'Thiuider  Mountain,  28<;. 

Tiakinak,  24S. 

Tigalda  Island,  24"!,  i(<o,  471. 

Tikhmcnielf,  Historian  of  llie  Russian  American 
Company,  <),  4S,  doS. 

Tinder,  how  made,  17. 

Tinneh,  family  of,.  2S  ;  dialect  of,  5  j,  41 1  il  ieq. 

I'ipping,  Captain,  308. 

Tobacco,  7S,  Si. 

'Tohwun-nukakat  River,  101. 

Tolstoi,  .\ndrean,  fits  out  a  vessel,  302. 

'I'olstoi  I'oint,  20,  129:  geology  of,  135,  161,  1S4, 
267. 

Tongas,  Fort,  251. 

'Tongas  Indians,  251. 

'Toiupiin,  the  ship,  lilted  out  by  .\stor,  32^,  327. 

'Topanika,  20,  i'>i. 

'Totems,  system  of,  iij6  -  198. 

'To/.ikakat  River,  92,  2S2. 

'Trade,  annual  Indian,  iu6. 

Trading  by  Hudson  Day  Company,  104  ;  expedi- 
tions, 307  ;  by  King  George's  Sound  Company, 
30S. 

'Trapesnikoff's  F.xpedition,  302. 

'Treaty  of  (ihent.  329;  with  Japan,  347  :  with  Hud- 
son l!ay  Company,  etc.,  353  ;   for  Alaska,  245, 

359 -37^- 
'Trevor,  the  ship,  329. 
Tristran  d'.Acnnha  Island,  492. 
'Trollopc,  Commodore,  3('i. 
'T'satsunii,  village  of,   13  :  houses  in,  13,  14. 
'Tschnagmnts.  tribe  of,  407. 

Tseetoht  River,  281. 
'Tsulsin,  aliits  for  Chukchces,  513. 
'Tugidak  Island,  24S. 

Tukkulh  Kutchin  tribe,  430. 

'Tulubieff,  Captain,  333. 

'Tiingusi  tribe,  518,  li}^. 

'Tunguska  River,  518. 

'Tuski  tribe,  the,  374,  375  ;  description  of,  378,  510, 

5>4. 
Turanian  family,  524. 
'Turnagain  Arm.  25'*,  272. 
Tutchoiic  Kutchin  Indians,  429. 
Tutsogemnt,  13. 

U. 

I'gagiik  River,  261,  273. 
I'galakmnts,  the  tribe  of,  401. 
I'g.dentsi,  tribe  of,  430. 
I'kamak  Island,  248. 
Uka-wutne  River,  85. 
Ukivuk  Island,  2O3. 


626 


INDEX. 


UliaRii  Island,  j^S. 

UliikaKMiiits,  tribe  of,  411. 

Ulukiik  moiiiitaiiis,  n) ;  arrived  at,  37,  41,  tad,  133  ; 

expedilion  starts  for,  1^14,  JS4,  j8S,  iKi). 
Umnak,  348,  3O0,  jH^,  303,  333,  395,  4'i7,  ^(>c,,  471, 

47.?.  47"- 
Unakhataiia  Indians,  103, 
Unalaslika,  348,  3^10,   381) ;  expedition  winters  at, 

304.  Vh  no.  314.  335.  350.    151  :  scliool  at,  353, 

38'J.  4H.  444  ;  rainfall  at,  44s,  448,  4''7.  4f'-'<.  4^-». 

471  ;  copper  fnnnd,  477,  4'W.  S-')<  5.15- 
I'nalaslikans,  tribe  of,  3S6. 
Unaleet,  tribe  of,  13. 
Unalga  Island,  347. 
Linaligmuts  atlatk  tlie  Michaeloviki   Redoubt,  9, 

407. 
I'nalaklik  River,  8,  9,  136,  130,  157,  367,  384,  340. 
Unalaklik,  trip  to,  S,  14:  cxpcililion  starts  for,  15: 

description  of,  34,  33,  57  ;  scurvy  at,  (*),  135,  139, 

133,  357.  ^°\  •(**'•.  535- 

Unga,  inundation  of,  310,  356,  466,  477,  479,  484. 

Unga  Island,  348,  359, 

iMigulata  of  Alaska,  578. 

L'nimak,  348,  ifa,  3(5 ;  1  .i-,3,  461,  466,  470;  volca- 
noes, 467,  4fi9,  478,  484. 

Union  Strait,  345. 

United  States  and  k..  -^ia  boundary  questions,  333 
et  ieq. 

United  States  Exploring  Kxpedition,  339,  340;  Ja- 
pan, 347. 

Uplioon,  northern  moulli  of  the  V'nkon,  119,  333, 

375.  ^"^S- 

Uprovalislia,  olTiccr  of  Russian  American  Com- 
pany, 350. 

Ursid.r  of  Alaska,  576. 

Ustiakoff,  a  navigator,  331,  400. 

Usiingoff,  cited,  (o3. 

Utensils,  216-  318. 

V. 

Valdes,  Lieutenant  C,  314. 
Valcrianos,  Aposlolos,  394. 
Vancouver,  Captain  (ieorgc,  his  chart,  250  ;  dies, 

314;  his  explorations,  315,  608 
Vancouver  Island,  475,  506. 
Variag,  the  corvette,  357. 
VasarofT,  Captain,  396. 
V.isiliefT,  336. 

Vatchee  Lake,  278  ;  head  of  Yukon,  638. 
VeniaminofT,   Father,  334,  336,  337.  34°.  35^.  35.1. 

377  ;  his  l.ibors,  385,  443,  444,  445  ;  finds  copper, 

477 ;  cited,  608. 
VeniaminofT  Mountain,  289,  470. 
Vesolia  Sopka,  38 ;  description  of,  39,  77,  1S5,  289. 
Victoria  Land,  345,  35^1,  338,  464. 
Victoria,  the  brig,  465. 
Vienna,  climate  of,  451. 
Vincennes,  the  sloop  of  war,  339,  340. 
Vizcaino,  Sebasti.an,  294. 
Volcanoes,  list  of,  286-290,  4O6-470. 


Vose,  the  geologist,  4^3. 
Vostovia  Mountain,  254,  471. 
Vunta  Kntchin  tribe,  io<>,  430. 
V^evill<ilT  I'eak,  2H9  ;  volcano,  467. 
Vsevolnj.»ky,  M.  U.  S.,  cited,  608. 

W. 

Waddinglon,  Mr  ,  4''.4. 

Waiiuvrighl  lidel,  385. 

Walker  Hay,  345. 

Walrus  Isl.ind,  i<o 

Walrus  I'eak,  jS),  4''.7. 

Walrus  vilLige,  4^>4. 

Wappaens,  J.  K.,  (09. 

Ward,  death  of,  no 

Washington  (I).  ('.. ),  climate  of,  451. 

Washington  Islands,  331. 

Washington,  ship,  from  Boston,  309  ;  makes  ex- 
plorations, 311. 

WasilielT,  llaraiiofT  Island  described  by,  336,  331, 
3V.  33f> 

Water,  dilTicully  in  obtaining,  33. 

Waxel,  Lieutenant,  discovers  Shumagin  Island, 
300. 

Weber  River,  475. 

Webster's  l)iction.ary  cited,  434. 

Wesldahl,  Mr.,  14,  18. 

Western  exploring  vessel,  331. 

Western  Union  Telegraph  Company,  355-358. 

Whale  l!ay,  478. 

Whale  Island,  370. 

Whaling  company  organized,  345. 

Wheildon,  W.  W.,  Ckx;. 

White  River,  279,  2.80. 

Whitehaven,  rainfall  at,  44^ 

Whitney,  Professor,  his  geological  investigations, 
4.'!7.  470.  53fi. 

Whytnper,  F.,  8  ;  artist,  35,  43  ;  afcends  the  Yu- 
kon, 56 ;  makes  sketches,  86,  205,  270,  277 : 
travels  in  Alaska,  290,  291,  356,  609. 

Whymper  River,  99,  281. 

Wilder,  the  steamer,  60. 

Wilkes,  Liei^t'uant  Charles,  339,  340  ;  his  expe- 
dition, 40i->,  6C9. 

Williams,  R.,  Adjutant-General,  369,  370. 

Wilna  River,  521. 

Wilson,  Joseph  S.,  368. 

Windship,  American  vessel,  324. 

Winter  Harbor,  346. 

Woiwodsky,  as  chief  Director  Russian  American 
Company,  343  ;  superseded,  349. 

Wolasatux,  50,  64,  170,  383. 

Wolf,  his  drawing  of  sea-otter,  489. 

Woody  Island,  ice  depot  at,  259,  355. 

Woronkoffsky  explores  south  co.ast  of  AIi.aska,  33S, 

339- 
Wossnessensky,   Elia,    339 ;    his  collections,   457, 

458. 
Wrangell,  Baron  F.  P.,  265,  330,  332,  336,  337,  338, 
354.  4<'.  4M.  508,  509,  609, 


INDKX. 


627 


Wr.ingfll  Land,  150,  J5t,  1^0,  10.I.  14-4,  5o»,  509. 
WmkIh,  Ccdrse  M.,  i.-j,  155. 
WriKlil,  i'.emne  S.,  the  sleamer,  3,  356,  358. 
Wyinaii,  iJr.,  376. 

Y. 

Y.ignr  Ivamivlili,  45. 

V.ij!iirk(itWiy  vill.i(;e,  479. 

\  .iRorsha,  45. 

\.ik;ui,  Cape,  509. 

\.ikulal  Hay,  256,  31^. ;  fort  at,   117,  321,  323,  333, 
481. 

\'.ikiitat  tribe,  411,  42S,  4S4. 

\.ikuls,  the,  5ifi;  llicir  liahlts  t,\<}  et  sei}. 

V.ikutsk,  12,  27(1,  519;  confouiulcj  with  Irkutsk, 
53'.  535. 

N.ikutikalatenik,  357. 

V.iska,  the  interpreter,  229. 

Vedcio  Hay,  347. 

Vellipw  Knife  Indians,  429. 

Velowy  Island,  24S. 

Yenisei  River,  519. 

\'ertno!()flr,  O09. 

Vcsso-Aincis,  houses  of,  525. 

Vesso  Island,  347,  523. 

\eterop  Island,  523. 

\'iirk  Kaclory,  103,  344. 

Vukagir  tribe,  21/1,  519,  523. 

Yukon,  description  of  river  and  Icrrilory,  i  -  242. 

Siikon,  Kort,  (> ;  Kelchnm's  journey  to,  63,  69,  72, 

86,  342,  34S,  498,  501,  502. 
Yukon  Indians,  47S,  ,}i^s,  ,^99,  525. 
Yukon  River,  identity  with  the  Kwikhpak,  4 ;  first 


-ii;lil  of,  4t  ;  plain  forascendinR,  ^.h  ■  chart  of,  6j, 
Wi;  washing  away  of  bank^,  71;  descent  of, 
Chap.  III.  ;  rapiils  of,  97 ;  plans  for  exploration 
of  Lower  Niik.m,  122-11)2:  •"ccncry  about,  2o<) ; 
first  chart  of,  it^  ;  nioutlis  of,  264,  263  :  dulia  of, 
275;  head •«. Iters  of,  27(1,  (,28;  identified  wiih  the 
Kwiklipak,  277;  explored,  27S:  tribularies  of, 
278  ;  descriplion  of,  279  -  2S4  ,  lenKlh,  2.S4  ,  course 
of,  J92;  explored  by  (llasunoff,  117;  explored  l)y 
Malakoff,  339,  345  ;  Jones  descends,  155  ;  ( Iran- 
auH  at  the  mouth,  373,411,  4''4 :  eartlupuikes  on, 
47" ;  gold,  477  ;  fish,  484,  4S5  ;  fur  lr.ide,  492  ,1 
tei}.,  5o<j. 

Yukon  Territory,  plan  for  exploration  of,  fi;  soil, 
71  ;  populalidii  of,  224  ;  its  value,  241,  242,  350; 
schools,  352;  delta,  lunuit  in,  407,  42S,  513;  cli- 
mate and  resources  of  territory.  Chap.  XV.,  p. 
435  <■'  sfij.  ;  rainfall,  437;  timber,  438  tt  scq.  ; 
Keology,  472. 

Yukutstharkut  River,  i/j,  2S1. 

Yulak  Island,  247. 

Ynnaska  volcano,  248,  4O8,  469,  471. 

Y'urup  Island,  523. 

Z. 

Zacharlns,  the  ship,  320. 

Zagoskin,  Lieutenant,  48,  276,  340,  341,  432,  Cjog. 

ZaikofT,  I'otan,  his  explorations,  307. 

Zaikoff,  .Sieiiheii,  makes  explorations,  305. 

Zapceski,  cited,  ^109. 

Zaremba  Island,  250. 

Zaremba,  Lieutenant  P.,  337,  340. 

Zetland,  444,  445  ;  agriculture  of,  447. 


NOTES   AND  CORRECTIONS  ON   THE   MAP. 


As  these  sheets  arc  leaving;  the  press  I  am  alilc  to  a<hl  the  following  notes.  'I'lic 
examination  of  the  original  maps  of  the  explorations  of  the  Stikliic  and  Talico  Rivers, 
which  were  not  aecessil)le  when  this  map  was  compiled,  show  some  corrections  to  In 
neee-.iary.  The  imperfections  of  ihe  pholoyraphie  map  (No.  4)  alluded  to  in  the  le\i, 
the  only  source  of  niformation  ihen  ucccssilile,  are  chiefly  the  cause  of  the  error,  ii 
must  be  remendiered  that  the  map  here  (,'iven  is  liascd  upon  approximate  data  to  a 
large  extent,  and,  as  explorations  multiply,  much  revision  in  the  smallei  details  will 
be  necessary.  The  principal  and  only  important  change  now  necessary  is  in  regard  lo 
the  head-waters  of  the  l.ewi^,  Stikiiie,  and  T.nhco  Rivers.  It  apjiears  that  the  true 
position  of  Fort  Muniford  is  57^^  54'  N.  I.at.  and  131°  lu'  W.  l,on.  from  (Ireenwidi. 
This  brings  the  true  course  of  the  river  into  agreement  with  the  observations  of  Pro- 
fessor \V.  r.  Hl.ake.  The  position  of  Lake  Kennicott  is  58°  30'  N.  I.at.  .and  131°  4;' 
\V.  I,on.  ;  it  is  fed  by  a  hot  spring  ;  and  of  Lake  Kelchum  58°  43'  N.  Lat.  and  131" 
50'  \V.  I.on.  Wilchce  Lake,  with  the  streams  from  several  small  lakes  falling  into  it, 
proves  to  be  the  true  head  of  the  Lewis  River,  and  is  divided  from  the  Tahc(j  hy 
a  very  low  and  narrow  divide,  some  three  miles  oidy  in  width.  The  north  and  soutli 
forks  of  the  I  alico  join,  in  the  main  stream  (in  I.at.  59°  07'  N.  and  I.on.  133'  W. 
(Ireenwich),  which  turns  abruptly  to  the  west  and  south,  an<t  without  doubt  (tho'igli 
unexjdored)  enters  (ilacier  Arm,  where  it  is  known  as  the  Tdku  River.  All  of  tlii^ 
was  incorrectly  represented  or  omitted  in  the  photographic  map  alluded  to.  Regret- 
ting that  this  correction  is  necessary,  I  am  only  glad  that  I  have  li.ad  the  opportunity 
of  correcting  it  here  at  the  last  moment,  though  not  in  the  text  itself.  The  remaindei 
of  the  map,  from  the  late-t  information,  proves  to  be  nearly  correct,  though  future 
revision  will  no  doubt  be  n-cessary. 

The  map  having  been  printed  before  the  spelling  was  revised,  the  following  changes 
:"'e  desirable  in  the  orthography  of  the  names  :  — 


Fo> 

Kinqef|uan 

read 

Kingcgan. 

Cape  Krleougoune 

Ca|)e  Kregugin. 

Nounivak 

Nunivak, 

Youkon 

Yukon. 

Katniay 

Katmdi. 

Unalaska 

Unaliishka. 

Iliaminsk  Pk. 

Iliamna  Peak. 

Kuyck  R. 

Kncck  R. 

Chilcat 

Chilkahf 

C.  St.  I5artoloin 

C.  St.  liartolomeo. 

Chimsain  Id, 

Chinisyan  Id. 

Ch  acorn 

Chacon. 

Etoline 

fitolin. 

N.  H.  — Cape  St,  Ilermogenes  is  the  south  point  of  Marmot  Island,  near  Kadiak. 
*  This  more  accurately  represents  the  sound,  according  to  Mr.  Davidson. 


Oft^jtwi^f** 


>n 


TAP. 


iiiK  notes.  Tilt 
<l  Tiilico  KiviTs 
Lont'ctidiis  to  In 
:d  to  in  the  tc\i, 
)f  tlie  error,  Ii 
iiuati-  (lata  to  u 
allfi  details  will 
y  is  in  regard  lo 
rs  tiiat  tlic  tiiic 
roin  (Mccnwic!:. 
rvations  of  I'm. 
;\t,  and  151°  4;' 

Lat.  and  iji" 
i  falling  into  it, 
I  the  TaliC(j  hy 
lorth  and  soutli 
1  I, on.    133'  W. 

doubt  (tho'.igli 
:r.  All  of  ihi, 
eil  to.  Regret- 
he  o|)|)ortunily 
The  remaindci 
,  though  future 

lowing  changes 


lear  Kadiak. 


«*" 

/ 

/ 

I  /  • 

'  V 

170* 


100" 


150" 


ual 


^-^. 


'^-'^J..'!!:^"-  ^-'^ 


u 


c>  ■' 


»•  ,    >' 


•-« 


Z 


._-..4.' 


j::Jte.!d«7i* 


A.L  ASKA 


IStU^nf^ 


♦-^.. 


/ 


'i*^«. 
.^«i>. 


AND 


ADJ OIN IN G  TKRH 1  TORY 

1869. 

Cbuiit  line  •oundii><«  Ac  ft-om  U  6.  Coaiil  Kurv*.T 

Tlio  Y.uikon  HrviT.Rnnj^H  of  Mount  aiim  Shore*  of  N«.ii«>n  Sound  Hr  many 
Ffatu:-.-»  olthr  luleiMor  tVoin  a  Heconiirti«*au.  «■  hv  W  M  Uall,  DirecUn   of  tlie 
Si-icntifir  (,or]ii»,  i.f  Ums  W.  U  T«l.  £iip«*«itU<>ii   IHti.'i  -  18(18 


-h 


V' 


r  i  "t^ 


/t.rt'.J 


.'*S>^::'1 


'.•Mi./i'l' 


Ill////    i 


,%«^- 


rar 


-W 


125* 


TT 


120' 


vt^    /  ^'"^' 


IS 


ARCTIC  OCE^KN 

r  K       SUOVIN^G  "WK ANGEL  tANB  » 


r 


\ 


C5P 


:)jj.wnr,;;/'V 


ISi 


n:.»u.|»«li  bv  t\v N Y  l.ilh*  r.n4i*/r,  rii«  Co  UiA  W I'li k  Ilau «• 


Ate 


^^ 


MQO 


^^ 


eo" 


SSF 


